Currie Conservation Area Character Appraisal

CURRIE CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL The Currie Conservation Area Character Appraisal was Approved by the Planning Committee On 26 September 2000 CURRIE CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ...... 1 Conservation Areas ...... 1 Character Appraisals ...... 1 Currie Conservation Area ...... 2

HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT ...... 3 Origins of Currie as a Settlement ...... 3

ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER ...... 5 Spatial Pattern and Townscape ...... 5 Signiﬁ cant Buildings ...... 10 Currie Kirk and Environs ...... 10 Lanark Road West ...... 11 The Water of Leith and its Setting within the Currie Conservation Area ..... 12 Activities and Uses ...... 13

SUMMARY OF ELEMENTS WHICH DETRACT FROM CURRIE CONSERVATION AREA’S SPECIAL CHARACTER AND OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT ...... 15 Strengths and Weaknesses ...... 15

GENERAL INFORMATION ...... 16 Statutory Policies Relating to Currie ...... 16 Implications of Conservation Area Status ...... 17 Supplementary Guidelines ...... 18 Protection of Trees ...... 18

REFERENCES ...... 19

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INTRODUCTION

Conservation Areas Section 61 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997, describes conservation areas as “...areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. The Act makes provision for the designation of conservation areas as distinct from individual buildings, and planning authorities are required to determine which parts of their areas merit conservation area status There are currently 39 conservation areas in Edinburgh, including city centre areas, Victorian suburbs and former villages. Each conservation area has its own unique character and appearance.

Character Appraisals The protection of an area does not end with conservation area designation; rather designation demonstrates a commitment to positive action for the safeguarding and enhancement of character and appearance. The planning authority and the Scottish Ministers are obliged to protect conservation areas from development that would adversely affect their special character. It is, therefore, important that both the authorities and other groups who have an interest in conservation areas and residents are aware of those elements that must be preserved or enhanced. A Character Appraisal is seen as the best method of defi ning the key elements, which contribute to the special historic and architectural character of an area. It is intended that Character Appraisals will guide the local planning authority in making planning decisions and, where opportunities arise, preparing enhancement proposals. The Character Appraisal will be a material consideration when considering applications for development within the conservation area and applications for signifi cant new developments should be accompanied by a contextual analysis that demonstrates how the proposals take account of the essential character of the area as identifi ed in this document. NPPG 18: Planning and the Historic Environment states that Conservation Area Character Appraisals should be prepared when reconsidering existing conservation area designations, promoting further designations or formulating enhancement schemes. The NPPG also specifi es that Article 4 Direction Orders will not be confi rmed unless a Character Appraisal is in place.

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Currie Conservation Area Currie Conservation Area was originally designated in on 28 June 1972 and extended on 29 May 1987. The conservation area was further extended in October 2003 to include Currie is situated 6 miles to the west of Edinburgh, occupying a ridge running alongside the Water of Leith and surrounded by Greenbelt. Originally a small, linear settlement which related historically to the Water of Leith to the south, and the farmland to the north. Following improvements in transport in the 19th and 20th centuries, it has signifi cantly increased in size to become a dormitory suburb of Edinburgh. The conservation area forms a relatively small part of Currie itself and is concentrated around the original historic village and Kirk. On the basis of the current designation, Currie Conservation Area extends eastwards to 135 Lanark Road West which is the Riccarton/Woodhall Arms public house, to the south, crosses Lanark Road West, with the edge being defi ned by No.142, a detached stone-built villa set in spacious garden ground; the boundary then continues to the rear of the Gibson-Craig memorial hall, the former police station and the bank and neighbouring properties, becoming less well defi ned at the edge of Riccarton Mains Road where a modern housing development impinges on the edge; continuing along, the boundary runs behind the Post Offi ce past the Riccarton Arms Hotel, then crosses back over Lanark Road West to include the old smiddy and, then down the steep sides of the ridge to include Currie Brig, Currie Kirk and its environs and runs past the Manse to the west to then join up with the edge of the Riccarton Arms public house on Lanark Road West. It is estimated that approximately 80-100 people live in the conservation area. The wider population of Currie Parish is now approaching 6,500.

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HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT

Origins of Currie as a Settlement The earliest records of a settlement in the Currie area are the stone cists (c. 500 B.C.) at Duncan’s Belt to the west and Blinkbonny, to the east, of the existing area known as Currie, and a Bronze Age razor (1800 B.C.) found at Kinleith Mill, to the east. There is no deﬁ nitive explanation of the meaning of the name ‘Currie’, but some suggestions that have been made are: ‘Coria’: name of a Roman camp. ‘Curragh’: from the Gaelic, meaning a boggy plain. ‘Curri’: an old family name. British (or Welsh) “Curi”: a hollow. There is evidence of a Christian community in the area for more than a 1000 years. In 1018, the Archdeacons of Lothian established a base in the area. John Bartholomew’s Civic and Ecclesiastical maps of the 13th century do not show Currie, but the Index of Charters 1309- 1413 records Currie as being ‘favourite hunting grounds’ for the Lords and Knights of Edinburgh Castle. A cottage is recorded on Riccarton Mains Road on Armstrong’s Map of the three Lothians in 1773. The more formal historic settlement began to take shape around Currie Kirk and the main Lanark Road, which was the main route south and continues to be known as ‘The Lang Whang’. It is believed that the original Currie Brig dates from the 14th century and is signiﬁ cant in history because Dalziel of Binns passed over it in 1666 with his troops to cut off the Covenanters and bring them to battle at Rullion Green. Currie Kirk is reputed to have been built on the foundations of the ancient Church of Kinleith and dedicated to St. Kentigern in 1296. The Kirk in its present form dates from 1784, with later alterations in 1791 and the steeple, clock and vane, which were added in 1818.

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Development around the Kirk comprised the manse, school and some dwellings which served the wider area of Currie Parish. Meanwhile in the hinterlands the development of farm buildings continued as agricultural needs changed. The ﬁ rst railway line came in 1874, with the development of Currie station set next to The Water of Leith which had already developed as an industrial area. The paper mills were already thriving before the development of the railway. Kinleith Mill was established in 1792, and by 1865 was the ﬁ fth largest of its kind in Scotland with an output of 1,300 tons per year. By 1876, after the railway was constructed, it produced 2,000 tons per year. The railway answered the growing demands of the existing paper mills at Colinton, Juniper Green, Currie and Balerno. Their national importance contributed to the change in the character of the Water of Leith Valley around Currie from agricultural to industrial/suburban. Ribbon development continued along the roadside. The Riccarton Arms was originally the farmhouse for Wester Currie Farm. It appeared under the name ‘Riccarton Arms’ in 1876. The building of the railway brought much change to the transportation links for Currie and the area around Lanark Road West began to become more developed with the erection of the Gibson Craig Memorial Hall of 1901 and the board school of 1903. The period between 1921-1951 brought many changes including the building of council houses and the beginnings of private house building along Lanark Road West, thereby continuing the spread of ribbon development. Wider scale development began in the late 1960s/early 1970s when speculative house builders started to promote Currie as a pleasant commuting suburb of Edinburgh and house building took place to the north of Lanark Road West. Currie High School was constructed from 1960. The physical topography has ensured that the original historic core to the south of Lanark Road West including the Water of Leith has remained relatively unchanged.

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ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER

Spatial Pattern and Townscape Currie Conservation Area is deﬁ ned by its architectural heritage which consists of a strong historic core of 19th century buildings centred around the Kirk and Brig; the farming hinterland to the south; the Water of Leith with its surrounding woodland and vegetation; and the linear development including public buildings along Lanark Road West. The mix of elements give Currie its unique sense of place and make it a very attractive settlement which has open views out to and in from the countryside beyond. Currie is reached along Lanark Road West, which has a more or less continuous line of villa development from the inner suburbs of the city. Arrival in the Conservation Area from both east and west is signalled by the use of stone which occurs prior to the edge of the boundary, after more modern and rendered houses for much of the way. As it runs through the Conservation Area the road winds, almost like the river below it, along the top of a ridge. Currie evolved as a small linear settlement set alongside Lanark Road West, the main north-south route, above Currie Brig. The surrounding land was countryside, with the Water of Leith and woodland providing a strong natural setting on either side of Currie Brig. The topography guided early development in the past to focus on Lanark Road West and the north, thus ensuring a very contained area around the heart of the original village. The Conservation Area boundary to the north, in the main, runs behind those properties facing the road and the rest of the slope is covered by largely modern suburbia at times protruding through to the main road. The extension to the Conservation Area includes a mixture of two and single storey detached and terraced houses, mainly stone built villas, with dormers and front gardens. These gardens are an important resource in allowing space for trees and shrubs that continue the wooded character of the river valley below and Green Belt to penetrate the village. Their long gardens to the rear sloping down to the river may indicate the original feus and are similar in nature to the lang riggs, which are found in 5 CURRIE CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

medieval burghs. Near the core there appears to be the remains of a short wynd echoing this pattern, running down between the last two cottages on the south side, with three further small and disused cottages along it. To the south, the building pattern has mostly been respected, apart from a few extensions and development in the rear gardens. On the north side, the pattern is much more disparate with the development of a garage and a dense fl atted development. The valley carved by the Water of Leith, and also the former railway line running beside it reinforces the linear development pattern. At the core of the village, many of the original houses built in terrace form come to the edge of the pavement and their orientation refl ect the bends in the road. This indication of a once more enclosed core shown in historic plans has now been altered by modern development with the loss of the tollhouse and a cottage to the south side of the road. To the north, at the widened junction with Riccarton Mains Road, there are now views out to the Forth Bridges and Fife. To the south, the ground drops away vertically and is supported by a high retaining wall with railings following upgrading of the road over the years. This has now become a busy main route resulting in the core of the village becoming cut off from the area around Currie Kirk. This does, however, give a sudden sense of openness with wide views up to the hills. From here the broader pattern of the Conservation Area becomes evident. Beneath the vista of the hills, attention is drawn down to Currie Kirk which is set in a contained landscape setting surrounded by stone walls which also encompasses the old schoolhouse and Currie school, built in 1832. At fi rst, the churches location on the opposite bank of the river seems to set it apart from the congregation it serves, but a more positive image is gained after the river is crossed. The small

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separation from the village, the sudden absence of traffi c intrusion on the main road above and the sound of the river give an aura of peace around the church. The church with its attractive pedimented front, clock and spire, all in a scale that seems appropriate to the village, forms part of an exceptional grouping of buildings. Flanking it on either side are the old schoolhouse and the original Currie School. In between, there is a path leading to the church door and on one side, a small lawn. These are separated by low stone walls and hedges, creating an off centre and informal approach. The School to the west is of a single storey terraced form with the westmost part a half bay width of its neighbour. They are orientated east-west, the cottage to the east is of a detached two storey form and is orientated north-south. Despite these apparent differences, the style appears of the same hand, their gables, skews, pedimented windows and access porches are all crow stepped and their tall slender square chimneys are faceted. This design approach has been adopted in all the other work carried out in building the manse, church extension and down to the small gardener’s store. The use of traditional materials and geometric forms in chimneys, crow steps, the church spire, even to the obelisk forms of memorials in the grave yard, create a relationship between the variety of ‘built’ elements. Parts of the adjacent walled garden are in a poor state of repair, but the garden makes a very signifi cant contribution to the overall grouping. This area lies within the Green Belt with fi elds and open countryside beyond. Seen together, the group is like a small religious settlement. From the hill behind, there is a view back down to the church and village beyond. From this vantage point both the village form with its house frontages opposite and the road curve round the bend in the river give an image of the village embracing the church. The graveyard was extended further south earlier in the last century and is well defi ned with matching stone walls. To the east of the Manse is a conifer plantation.

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From here also emerges a third aspect of the areas spatial pattern, that of Rosebank Farm. This consists of the main farmhouse, some of the older barns, a terrace of former farm workers cottages and a small duck pond. These are in the same vernacular style with traditional stone construction and slate or pantiled roofs. Whilst the rest of the farm is surrounded with ﬁ elds, the cottages back on to the newer cemetery. Most of the areas development runs parallel to the contours but, the cottages facing the road up the hill provide additional visual interest as the exposed gables gradually reﬂ ect the slope. At one time the infrastructure in the village and valley would have played a greater role. The Currie Brig is a considerable stone structure in its own right linking village to church, cottages and farms beyond. With the railway in use, boats along the river (although their use was limited because of the presence of weirs), more frequent pedestrian use and horse based transport over the bridge and the toll road, there would have been four different levels of movement. In the village a small circle of setts in the pavement mark the location of a well once used by travellers. Further along the main road are the remains of a drinking fountain now built into the front wall of 147 Lanark Road West. Other notable features include an early milepost giving distances to Edinburgh and Lanark and a small standing stone which is believed to be part of Corslet Cross, which in the Middle Ages was a boundary marker for the Burlaw Court. This

Court, according to a recent inscription set below the stone, used to ‘decide the dates between which things could be done to mutual advantage’. From a similar period there is St. Mungo’s Well in the river valley. Of more recent times there is the standing stone in front of the Post Ofﬁ ce commemorating Dougal Haston, the mountaineer who died in 1977.

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The combination of village, with more rural church grouping, farm, cottages and natural setting all in such a small space together and well tended make this a Conservation Area of considerable quality.

Essential Character

• Typical linear development pattern along hilltop ridge, to some extent compromised by intrusive road and suburban development.

• Rural character of Green Belt still continued into main street by trees in front gardens where housing is set back.

• Continuous linear pattern along Lanark Road West reinforced by the river valley and former railway line below, with views out to and in from the Green Belt.

• Evidence of a lang rigg feu pattern with remains of a typical wynd/ close and diminutive rural cottages.

• Vernacular development within conservation area, reﬂ ecting Currie’s history as a rural settlement.

• Village core with cottages right to the heel of the pavement and a small central space with open views to south and north.

• Exemplary historic Kirkyard grouping with geometric architectural elements linking buildings through time and set in a self contained landscape setting.

• Contrast of busy main road and short transition to peaceful riverside walkway.

• Traditional farm house and cottages in vernacular style and traditional materials.

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Signiﬁ cant Buildings There are several buildings and groups of buildings, which contribute, signiﬁ cantly to the character of the area.

Currie Kirk and Environs This is undoubtedly the most important building group within the conservation area, a ﬁ ne enclave of 18th and early 19th century traditional buildings, set in a picturesque setting • Currie Kirk: Currie Parish Church (St. Kentigerns): This ﬁ ne church sits in the valley on the south side of Currie Brig, dating from 1784-85. This building has been built in a classical style with Gothic windows and central clock tower. It is listed category A and was built on the site of the former medieval church. The interior was re-cast by David Bryce in 1835. It forms the central building in a picturesque setting. The surrounding churchyard and cemetery form a dramatic setting with much of the original trees and layout surviving intact. There are many interesting original grave stones and a sundial. The cemetery extended beyond to the south into an adjoining plot of land, which dates from the 19th century in its form and layout.

• Currie Manse: Situated to the east of the Kirk, the Manse originally dates in part from 1799,with alterations by David Bryce in 1838. This building forms part of the courtyard setting with the Kirk and the original schoolhouse to the west. It is two-storey with crow-stepped gables and large diagonal paired chimneys. There is a large terraced garden area which forms the setting, has a rare beebole type structure in the garden wall near the NE corner.

• Rosebery Cottages: The old school, by William Burn 1828- 29, 2-storey with crow-stepped gables. The schoolhouse was built opposite.

• Former Schoolhouse: An L-plan 2 -storey building by David Bryce, 1830-31, this property, situated to the west, completes the grouping. Single-storey, stone-built with slated roof and crow-stepped gables.

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• Terraced Cottages to West: A terrace of small stone-built cottages in vernacular form is situated to the west around a triangle of green.

• Cast Iron Post Box: There was originally, a post ofﬁ ce amongst this grouping which no longer exists, however, the original posting box remains, set within the stone boundary wall.

Lanark Road West • Gibson Craig Memorial Hall by J McIntyre Henry, 1900-01, listed category C (S), a red sandstone building which sits on the building line on the on the main road. It has a commanding entrance with Gibbsian surrounds, ionic pilasters with an ionic Venetian window above set in a gabled frontage.

• Farmhouse dating from the later 18th century. A traditional 2-storey house with a single-storey addition to the west and a 2-storey addition to the northwest. This building is an early survival of the original settlement and sits on the roadside forward of the later established building line and has a prominent gable. It is listed category B.

• Currie Post Ofﬁ ce, listed category C(S), dating from the mid 19th century is a single-storey L-plan building. It is stone-built with slate roof and moulded skewputts and a distinctive tall brick chimney. It is important because it deﬁ nes the edge of the original building line at this point.

• 194 Lanark Road West: A two-storey 18th century house, remodelled in the mid-19th century constructed of rubble stone with painted margins. This building forms part of the original roadside setting.

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• 198, 200, & 202 Lanark Road West: A row of three single-storey terraced farm cottages dated early/mid 19th century. They are raised above the roadway and are traditional in their construction and exhibit much vernacular charm. Constructed of stone with slate roofs and brick chimneys, some of which are neglected. • Old Smiddy & SSEB Substation: A single-storey low range of buildings, originally used as the blacksmith’s workshop and smiddy, part of which, now houses an electricity sub-station. The original pantiles have been replaced with modern tiles on the front roof, but can still be seen to the rear, where there is a semi-circular outshot and piended roof.

• 165 Lanark Road West: A pair of single-storey cottages with attics, circa 1815. They are distinguished by a Roman Doric pilastered doorpiece to the front. Built in stone with slate roofs.

• 209 Lanark Road West: The former Town O’ Currie School originally dating from 1699, John Grinton and Robert Telford Wright and masons. Single-storey to road and 2-storey to south, harled over with French tile roof.

• Riccarton Arms Public House: 2 storey stone building with small single storey cottage attached to left. Originally, the farmhouse and one of the cottages for Wester Currie Farm, probably dating from the 19th century, it is much altered, with a large extension to the rear. It is painted white with black windows and door margins, and is set back, reﬂ ecting the original roadside setting.

The Water of Leith and its Setting Within The Currie Conservation Area This natural setting, unlike the built heritage in the Conservation Area, is linked and continuous. The management plan for the Water of Leith, prepared by The Water of Leith Action Group, sets out a vision for the river; “From hill springs through wooded slopes which keep the city at bay, to the sea, this unique landscape will be safeguarded and enhanced. Integrated management will ensure that river and valley fulﬁ l their many and varied roles; as a sanctuary for people and wildlife, as an outdoor classroom for adults and children and much more.” The plan seeks to ensure continuity in approach.

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• Currie Brig: In its current form, dating from the 18th century, this striking structure straddles the Water of Leith and provides the transition from Lanark Road West to the Currie Kirk and environs.

• Saint Mungo’s Well: This is an old water source near to the east of Currie Brig on the south bank of the Water of Leith, dedicated to Saint Mungo (also known as Saint Kentigern), the patron saint of Glasgow.

• Bottle Kiln: The remains of an old bottle kiln, circa 18th century are situated to the west of Currie Brig on the north bank of the river. It was used to dry grain for milling and is believed to be one of the few circular grain mills still surviving in Scotland.

Essential Character

• Key buildings within Kirkyard grouping by William Burn and David Bryce, important architects of their time and instrumental in the revival of the Scottish Baronial style in Scotland

• Currie Brig, previously, the meeting point of three levels of transport infrastructure- road, rail and pedestrian, crossing over the river valley

• The natural setting of The Water of Leith and its wooded dell and vegetation

Activities and Uses The Conservation Area is mainly residential in character. There is a small mix of established and newly housed commercial uses. The pub, and Post Ofﬁ ce are in traditional properties around the small green at the centre of the village whilst more recent development housing a garage with showroom, repair bay, workshop and forecourt vehicle display area is located close by taking up a wide arc of street frontage.

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At the edges and just on the area’s boundaries are, to the west, Currie Primary School and library and to the east, a bank, the Gibson Craig Memorial Hall, with community hall behind, a local Council Offi ce and a small sheltered housing development on the south side of the road. These are interspersed with houses until a small modern block of some six shop units which sits on the corner of Bryce Road. To the west of the historic core is the Currie Kirk with its associated buildings and Rosebank Farm. Lanark Road West, the main road through the village, is one of the principal routes into Edinburgh from the west and serves the nearby town of Balerno. This road is also a main commuter route and traffi c fl ows through the village appear constant and fairly heavy. This has had a considerable impact over time on the character of the village with road widening leading to the demolition of the old Toll House, a cottage to the north side as well as the masonic hall. Changes in road alignment over time, have made access to Currie Kirk less direct. The Water of Leith walkway, kirkyard and lanes down in the valley are quiet and unhurried by comparison and are becoming an increasing focus for recreational and educational uses both by local residents and people from outwith the area. The Water of Leith Conservation Trust is a body which has been formed to protect the river and walkway and encourage educational use.

Essential Character

• The Conservation Area is mainly residential with a broader mix of uses at it’s edges such as the Post Ofﬁ ce, public houses and community hall.

• A busy and unvarying through route which does not acknowledge the village character nor gives a sense any sense of progression from edge to core.

• Considerable recreational and educational uses in both the areas river side walkway and green belt location.

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SUMMARY OF ELEMENTS WHICH DETRACT FROM CURRIE CONSERVATION AREA’S SPECIAL CHARACTER AND OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT

Strengths and Weaknesses Currie Conservation Area exhibits a special character, which is enhanced by its strengths and compromised by its weaknesses. The strengths are many and lie in the nature of the topography of the area with its unique setting within the Water of Leith valley, the countryside to the hinterland beyond and the historic nature of Lanark Road West. There are elements, which detract from the character of the conservation area, which have led to a disruption in the spatial pattern and loss of the sense of containment, which are key features in the area. These elements can be identiﬁ ed as follows: • Inappropriate Development on Lanark Road West: Some recent housing development has failed to reinforce the character of the area. Also, the use of non traditional materials has had a negative impact in the conservation area. There have also been some poor alterations to existing traditional buildings such as unsympathetically designed dormers, porches and conservatories.

• Car-parking in Front Gardens on Lanark Road West: There is a signiﬁ cant loss of front garden ground to hard standing, mainly for parking purposes in the traditional villas.

• Safety Barrier to Lanark Road West: A continuous safety barrier has been erected on the south part of Lanark Road West where Currie Brig meets the main road. The road has been designed to take high levels of traffi c and the conservation area would benefi t from measures to reduce traffi c speed.

• Built Elements of Heritage, Which Have Been Neglected: There are certain elements of Currie’s heritage, which have been neglected and are in need of some attention. St. Mungo’s Well set within the southbank of the Water of Leith has lost its brass plaque depicting its origins and the surrounding stone slabs are loose. Further alongside the Water of Leith, on the south bank, there is some machinery from the original weir i.e. sluice gate and lade, and the odd relic from the original railway line, which are gently decaying. The disused kiln on the north west side of Currie Brig which is believed to be the remnants of a circular grain mill, shows signs of decay, which could lead to instability in the future. Currie Brig itself shows slight signs of wear. An old cast-iron drinking fountain has been identiﬁ ed on Lanark Road West outside the Post Ofﬁ ce, which has rusted and is set into a stone boundary wall. A cast-iron directional road sign still survives on Lanark Road West.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

Statutory Policies Relating to Currie The Currie Balerno Local Plan, Written Statement, June 1983, identiﬁ es the original boundaries of Currie Conservation Area, which were much more tightly deﬁ ned around a smaller area. It highlights the area immediately to the to the south of Currie Kirk containing the cemetery and the adjacent farm cottages in the Kirkgate as forming an important part of the setting of the historic village. It also states that the Council will consider the desirability of including these areas in the designated conservation area. These areas are subject to Countryside and Greenbelt policies and are situated in an Area of Great Landscape Value. Within the Countryside policy area the objective of the plan is to protect countryside from development and maintain its rural character. This places a general presumption against any development that is not related to agriculture and outdoor recreation. Consequently, in the case of the wider environs around Currie Conservation Area, to the south, the emphasis is on ensuring that new development does not alter the rural character of this group of properties. The original designation of the Edinburgh Green Belt was in 1957, with the following objectives: • To limit the further expansion of the City

• To prevent the merging of built-up areas

• To preserve and enhance the landscape setting of the Capital, and

• To prevent the loss of agricultural land to development

The designation, ‘Area of Great Landscape Value’ has no statutory signifi cance, but local authorities were encouraged to designate them by the Scottish Offi ce, to highlight the need for careful planning in their vicinity. Within these areas there are landscape qualities which should be safeguarded and recreational and wildlife interests promoted. The Council is in the process of replacing the Currie Balerno Local Plan with the Rural West Edinburgh Local Plan. The fi nalised version of the Rural West Edinburgh Local Plan, identifi es parts of Currie Conservation Area as being situated within designated areas of Green Belt, Site of Interest for Nature Conservation and Guest House Area.

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The Local Plan contains advice on: • The classes of permitted development within the conservation area; • The preservation of enhancement of a conservation area where development is proposed; • The protection of listed buildings; • The protection of open space; • Development within Edinburgh’s Green Belt; • Design and amenity criteria for development within Edinburgh’s Green Belt.

Implications of Conservation Area Status Designation as a conservation area has the following implications: • Permitted development rights under the General Development Order are restricted. Planning permission is, therefore, required for stonecleaning, external painting, roof alterations and the formation of hard surfaces. The area of extensions to dwelling houses, which may be erected without consent, is also restricted to 16m2 and there is additional control over satellite dishes.

• Under Article 4 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, the planning authority can seek approval of the Scottish Executive for Directions that restrict permitted development rights. The Directions effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor alterations to buildings in conservation areas that can cumulatively lead to erosion of character and appearance. Development is not precluded, but such alterations will require planning permission and special attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. Currie Conservation Area is currently covered by an Article 4 Direction Order, for the following range of permitted development classes: 1 enlargement, improvement or other alteration of a dwelling house 3 provision or alteration of buildings or enclosures within the curtilage of a dwelling house 6 installation, alteration or replacement of satellite antennae 7 creation of means of 18 agricultural works

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38 water undertakings 39 development by gas suppliers 40 development by electricity undertakers

• Special attention must be paid to the character and appearance of the conservation area when planning controls are being exercised. Most applications for planning permission for alterations will, therefore, be advertised for public comment and any views expressed must be taken into account when making a decision on the application.

• Buildings, which are not statutorily listed, can normally be demolished without approval under the Planning Regulations. Within conservation areas the demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent.

• Proposals for work on trees must be notiﬁ ed in writing to the Council, six weeks in advance of commencing works.

• Alterations to windows are controlled in terms of the Council’s policy.

• Grants may be available towards the repair or restoration of historic buildings

Supplementary Guidelines The Council also produces supplementary planning guidance on a range of development control issues. These are contained within the Development Management Handbook.

Protection of Trees Trees within conservation areas are covered by the Town and Country (Scotland) Act 1972, as amended by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997. The Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level, and concerns the lopping of trees as much as removal. The planning authority must be given six week’s notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice render the person liable to the same penalties as for contravention of a TPO.

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REFERENCES

Our District John Tweedie & Cyril Jones - published by Currie District Council 1975

Currie in Old Picture Postcards John Tweedie - published by European Library-Zaltbommel/Netherlands, 1973

Various press cuttings from the Edinburgh Room Archives of The Central Library

Historic Maps: Gelatly’s Map 1834 Ordnance Survey Plan 1852 Ordnance Survey Plan 1893

19 You can get this document on tape, in Braille, large print and various computer formats if you ask us. Please contact Interpretation and Translation Service (ITS) on 0131 242 8181 and quote reference number 02246/5. ITS can also give information on community language translations. You can get more copies of this document by calling City Development enquiries on 0131 529 3550

Dave Anderson Director of City Development The City of Edinburgh Council Waverley Court 4 East Market Street Edinburgh EH8 8BG

Produced by the City Development Department: Planning & Strategy Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Leith Contents Conservation Area Character Appraisal Summary Information 5

Conservation Area Character Appraisals 6

Special Characteristics and Key Elements overall 10

Old Leith and The Shore 12

Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ 21

Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb 25

Leith Walk - Special Characteristics 30

Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance 34

Management - Pressures and Sensitivities 37

Management - Opportunities for Planning Action 39

Management - Opportunities for Enhancement 40

Sources 41

2 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Historical map

Conservation Area Boundary

1854 map 1940 aerial

1884 map 1960 map

1900 map Development phases

1915 map Listed Buildings

3 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Leith Conservation Area Sub-areas

Old Leith and Shore Madiera Leith Links Leith Walk Deleted area (now in Pilrig CA)

4 Summary Information Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Location and boundaries Statement of Significance

Leith lies on the coast, some 1.5 miles The character of the Conservation Area derives from Leith’s history both as a port and an north east of the centre of Edinburgh. The independent burgh. Several fine Georgian and Victorian warehouses survive, some now Conservation Area covers the extent of the converted for residential or office use. A rich mixture of civic buildings and mercantile historic town, and includes the Madeira architecture survives particularly at Bernard Street and The Shore. Significant earlier area and Leith Walk, the town’s main link buildings include Lamb’s House and St Ninian’s Manse (both early 17th Century). The with Edinburgh city centre. present street pattern of The Shore area closely follows that of the historic town.

The area is included within the Forth, Leith, The Inner Harbour of the Water of Leith provides a vibrant focus for the Conservation Leith Walk and Craigentinny/Duddingston Area, with buildings along The Shore forming an impressive waterfront townscape. The wards, and is covered by the Leith and Conservation Area also covers the older parts of the Port of Leith, containing many early Newhaven, Leith Central, and Craigentinny/ features including listed dock buildings and the Victoria Bridge, a scheduled Ancient Meadowbank Community Councils. The Monument. population of the Leith Conservation Area The Madeira area retains a largely Georgian domestic character, with stone buildings and in 2011 was approximately 13,804 in 7,852 slate roofs predominating; some of the Georgian buildings retain astragaled windows households. and doors with fanlights. Many of the roads are setted, the main exception being Prince Regent Street. Stone garden walls are a feature of the area. North Leith Parish church Dates of designation/amendments provides a visual focus to this mainly residential area, which also includes major public The Leith Conservation Area was buildings such as Leith Library and Town Hall. designated in 1998. It comprises the former Leith Walk remains the main artery linking the centre of Edinburgh to the old burgh of Madeira and Old Leith Conservation areas Leith. It is characterised mainly by Victorian tenements with shops and pubs at ground with extensions at Leith Walk, Kirkgate, floor level. There are a number of Georgian survivals, most notably Smith’s Place dating Albert Dock and the Citadel. The Old Leith from 1814. Conservation Area was designated in 1977, with a number of subsequent amendments Building types within the Conservation Area vary but are traditionally in stone with slate and the Madeira Conservation Area was roofs. Pockets of public housing development from the 1960s and 1970s, of a contemporary designated in 1975. The Conservation Area character, fall within the expanded Conservation Area. Open space is concentrated at boundary was amended on 30 August 2013 Leith Links, which provides a spacious contrast to the relatively dense settlement pattern to transfer part of Leith Walk and Pilrig of the remainder of the Conservation Area. Street to the Pilrig Conservation Area. Acknowledgements

This document has been produced with the assistance of the Friends of the Water of Leith Basin. 5 Conservation Area Character Appraisals Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Purpose of character appraisals – why do we need them?

Conservation area character appraisals are intended to help manage change. They provide an agreed basis of understanding of what makes an area special. This understanding informs and provides the context in which decisions can be made on proposals which may affect that character. An enhanced level of understanding, combined with appropriate management tools, ensures that change and development sustains and respects the qualities and special characteristics of the area.

“When effectively managed, conservation areas can anchor thriving communities, sustain cultural heritage, generate wealth and prosperity and add to quality of life. To realise this potential many of them need to continue to adapt and develop in response to the modern-day needs and aspirations of living and working communities. This means accommodating physical, social and economic change for the better.

Physical change in conservation areas does not necessarily need to replicate its surroundings. The challenge is to ensure that all new development respects, enhances and has a positive impact on the area. Physical and land use change in conservation areas should always be founded on a detailed understanding of the historic and urban design context.”

From PAN 71, Conservation Area Management. www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2004/12/20450/49052

How to use this document

The analysis of the Leith’s character and appearance focuses on the features which make The Management section outlines the Leith special and distinctive. This is divided into two sections: Structure, which describes policy and legislation relevant to decision- and draws conclusions regarding the overall organisation and macro-scale features of the making in the area. Issues specific to area; and Key elements, which examines the smaller-scale features and details which fit Leith are discussed in more detail and within the structure. recommendations or opportunities identified. This document is not intended to give prescriptive instructions on what designs or styles will be acceptable in the area. Instead, it can be used to ensure that the design of an alteration or addition is based on an informed interpretation of context. This context should be considered in conjunction with the relevant Local Development Plan policies and planning guidance.

6 Historical Origins And Development Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal A review of the historical development of entered the Firth of Forth. The tidal mouth was a short row of tenements and a windmill, Leith is important in order to understand how of the river would have afforded a haven for now known as the Signal Tower, built by the area has evolved in its present form and ships long before any artificial harbour was Robert Mylne in about 1686 at the north end adopted its essential character. constructed. The first historical reference to of the Shore the settlement dates from 1140, when the As the port of Edinburgh and a gateway to After Edinburgh’s North Bridge was harbour and fishing rights were granted to Europe, Leith has played a conspicuous completed in 1772, Leith Street and Leith Walk Holyrood Abbey by David I. At this time, it was part in the history of Scotland. It retains a were firmly established as the major route to known by the compound name ‘Inverleith’ strong sense of individuality based on its Leith. Market gardens developed along the (meaning ‘Mouth of the Leith’). long history as a thriving and independent length of Leith Walk to meet the needs of the burgh, and Edinburgh’s rise to importance Leith constantly features in the power struggles growing population of Edinburgh during the can be attributed in part to the success of that took place in Scotland throughout the first half of the 18th century. In 1764, Professor Leith as Scotland’s primary port for almost period and the battles, landings and sieges John Hope developed 13 acres of land on five centuries. of Leith have had an influence on its physical the west side of Leith Walk at Shrubhill as development. In 1548, the Regent Mary of Botanic Gardens. From the late 13th Century until 1707, when it Guise moved the seat of government to Leith was overtaken by Glasgow, Leith was not only The Foot of Leith Walk was still almost entirely and the town was fortified. The fortifications Edinburgh’s port but it was the gateway to rural in 1785 when John Baxter prepared a ran from the west-end of Bernard Street Scotland and its busiest port. Indeed well into scheme for development east of the street. south-east to the junction of the present the 20th Century Leith ships traded with the Scattered development on both sides of Maritime and Constitution Street, south to Baltic, the Low Countries, France, America Leith Walk followed in the late 18th century the foot of Leith Walk, returning to the Shore and the Mediterranean, carrying cole, grain, and the first years of the 19th century. James along the line of what is now Great Junction fish and hides and returning with spice, cloth, Smith, a merchant, bought the site of Smith’s Street. The siege of 1560 resulted in the whale oil and wine. Place in 1800 and by 1814 he had laid out subsequent partial demolition of its defensive a cul-de-sac and the next year built a large Leith officially became Edinburgh’s walls. However, Leith continued to develop as house at its end. port in 1329 and has remained a busy a merchant port. cargo destination ever since. Significant By the mid 19th century, Leith Walk was an In 1656-7 a large Cromwellian fort, Leith improvements and alterations took place important public transport route. Horse Citadel, was built west of the river; a gateway during the 19th Century in association with drawn trams were introduced in the 1870s, of which still survives in Dock Street. By the the Port of Leith’s marine-industrial functions cable cars in 1899, and electric trams a end of the 17th century, Leith had developed and many of these remain in the original few years later. Expansion of the railways from its original nucleus by the Shore to fill state, including the harbour basins. resulted in redevelopment at the Foot of the area which had been enclosed by the Leith Walk and the formation of large goods Leith was first established on the banks of the line of the 1548 fortifications. One of the few yards at Steads Place and Brunswick Road. Water of Leith, at the point where the river developments outside the line of the walls

7 Historical Origins And Development Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The railways provided work for large besides those for the making of cordage The Madeira area was conceived as a numbers of people and resulted in major for brewing, distilling, and rectifying spirits, comprehensive design prompted by the speculative developments that extended refining sugar, preserving tinned meats, success of James Craig’s New Town in along the east side of Leith Walk and soap and candle manufactories, with several Edinburgh. Beginning in 1800 with land the adjacent streets towards the end of extensive cooperages, iron-foundries, south of Leith Links it continued in 1807 with the 19th century. These streets form a flourmills, tanneries and saw-mills.” James Gillespie Graham’s feuing scheme herringbone pattern meeting Leith Walk at for a large area of north of Ferry Road. New docks west of the harbour were begun offset junctions. The grid pattern of streets was developed in 1800, and in 1810 Great Junction Street sporadically through the 19th century with In the second half of the 18th century, regular was formed, leading to a new bridge over Georgian buildings set back behind front streets (Bernard Street and Constitution the Water of Leith, as a road to them from gardens. By the turn of the century these Street) were formed on the edges of the the foot of Leith Walk. The large parklands basic rules were abandoned and Victorian town, Queen Charlotte Street (then Quality of the 18th century houses surrounding buildings were inserted in the gaps taking Street) cut through the medieval layout, and Leith were laid out for terraces and villas, their building lines directly from the heel Constitution Street was extended south to beginning in 1800 with land south of Leith of the pavement. This is most noticeable the foot of Leith Walk. At the same time, Links and continuing in 1807 with James on Portland Place where a curved Victorian villas were built nearby and Leith became Gillespie Graham’s plan for a large area tenement projects forward from its a fashionable seaside resort which, as early north of Ferry Road and Great Junction Georgian wings on either side. The most as 1767, included a golf clubhouse built Street. Robert Burn laid out a scheme for important building in the area is William by the Honourable Company of Edinburgh land south of Ferry Road in 1808 and later Burn’s North Leith Parish Church (1816). Golfers at the west end of the Links. a feuing plan for Great Junction Street. However, building was sporadic and these In 1833, Leith was established as an Leith expanded substantially during the ambitious schemes were only completed independent Municipal and Parliamentary 19th century, associated with railway (in significantly revised form) in the late 19th Burgh with full powers of local government. building and the growth of the Port century. Leith’s architectural development of the of Leith; port related industries and time reflected its new status and a number warehousing also grew rapidly during this These first decades of the 19th century also of substantial buildings - a Town Hall, period. The following description of some witnessed a period of major civic building Burgh Court, Police Office - appropriate of the activities in Leith during this period reflecting Leith’s growing power and to its burgh status were built in the centre is given: “Leith possesses many productive wealth. A number of Leith’s finest remaining of the town throughout the 19th century. establishments, such as ship-building and buildings date from this period, including Leith expanded as massive warehouses and sail-cloth manufactories ... manufactories the Leith Bank, the Customs House, the additional docks were built: the Victoria of glass ... a corn-mill ... many warehouses Assembly Rooms, Trinity House, and North Dock in 1851, the Albert Dock in 1881; the for wines and spirits ... and there are also Leith Parish Church. Imperial Dock in 1903. other manufacturing establishments

8 Historical Origins And Development Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal After the passing of the Leith Improvement Following the First World War, the number were converted to housing from redundant Act in 1880 many of the slums and most of shipyards was reduced from six or seven industrial buildings with assistance from of the 16th and 17th century buildings to one, and the stream of pre-war trade the Leith Project Initiative. An important were cleared away and replaced with dwindled significantly. Through the inter- factor in Leith’s revitalisation was the large tall tenements. Henderson Street was war years Leith had high unemployment. stock of solidly built warehouses, usually also forced through the old pattern of However, the population of Leith was still with plenty of natural daylight making them closes and wynds. Concurrent with the around 80,000 at the start of the Second suitable for conversion. The King’s Landing improvement schemes were programmes World War. (1985) was a substantial new private housing of major tenemental development, most development on a former gap site. Leith was the focus of slum clearance significantly the building of dense tenement programmes between the 1950s and 1970s This more recent approach has resulted in blocks over the fields between Leith Walk that resulted in the loss of the historic the central shore and basin areas of Leith and Easter Road. Leith Links were part of a Kirkgate and the construction of a number taking on new identities as important larger area of common land which stretched of large public housing schemes. The centres for high profile and innovative along the coast including part of Seafield. demolition of large numbers of sub-standard business, the relocation of the Scottish Links is Scots meaning sandy ground with houses resulted in a housing shortage, and Government offices, new housing, and high hillocks and dunes, and the present artificial many younger people were forced to move quality restaurants and bars. Leith is also flatness dates from about 1880. out of Leith to find accommodation. This now the permanent home of the former The Links were significantly remodelled at distorted the community profile, with a bias Royal Yacht Britannia and its importance this time and brought, more or less, into towards the elderly. has been further strengthened by the their present form. A formal park, enclosed Ocean Terminal development. The Leith In more recent years the emphasis has by railings with extensive avenues of trees, Townscape Heritage Initiatives resulted moved to urban regeneration, community replaced the former rolling landscape in improvements to the public realm and needs and the conservation of Leith’s of grassed dunes. These improvements individual buildings in Leith. historic environment. The Leith Project removed most of the world’s oldest golf Initiative of 1980-85, incorporated an Despite having lost many of the original course, which is mentioned as early as 1456. industrial and environmental programme buildings on the quayside around the Inner The Links were an important recreational directed at cleaning up buildings; helping Harbour basins and, most of the industries centre, hosting horse racing and athletic to renovate and convert properties for associated with the river and the life on meetings, and still contain bowling greens quality housing, offices and workshops; the water, there are enough buildings and cricket pitches that date from the 19th developing industrial units in disused gap remaining, enough life and business century. sites; consolidating key industries and around the Harbour. The basins all have encouraging new business to develop a different character, all tell a story and all in the historic centre. The Vaults, the have a beauty of their own. Cooperage and buildings along the Shore Kirkgate

9 Special Characteristics and Key Elements overall Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Development pattern Building Types

Leith has a unique and complex architectural Leith was a thriving and expanding Leith retains a broader range of building character that makes it distinctive and commercial and industrial area throughout types from the past than most areas of the clearly identifiable within the context of the 19th century, and much of the town’s city. It has also been the subject of greater Edinburgh. The Conservation Area has at present urban structure and varied foreign architectural influence, which can its centre an important historical harbour architectural fabric stem from this be seen in a number of buildings in Leith. town with its origins in the 12th Century. The significant period in its development as Although less visible than in its heyday architectural character of the Conservation an independent burgh and trading port. (when Dutch, Nordic and French styles Area derives from Leith’s history, both as A combination of the grouping of its influenced many warehouses and offices), a port and an independent burgh, which buildings, the form of its spaces and the this is still reflected in remnants such as imbue its individual architectural elements many features of visual interest contribute the Norwegian and Ukrainian churches, with a deeply rooted significance. Despite to Leith’s positive identity and distinctive and replica buildings, such as St Thomas’s having lost most of its medieval buildings, urban character. Much of the architectural on Sherrif Brae (copied from a church in Leith provides an excellent example character stems from the juxtaposition of Brittany) and South Leith Parish Church of a small 19th century provincial town large warehouses and well detailed later- (copied from a St. Petersburg design). containing architecture which displays a Georgian houses and public buildings. Street names such as Elbe, Baltic Street, rightness and fitness of scale (grand but Cadiz, and Madeira also testify to Leith’s not intimidating) and uniformly high quality maritime tradition and extensive trading of materials, detailing and design which links. have a unique significance in the context of Each period of Leith’s long history has Scottish architectural history. The historical left buildings of major interest. The and architectural importance of the Leith relatively formal spaces of Bernard Street St Ninians Conservation Area is reflected in the and Constitution Street, the remnants of concentration of Statutorily Listed Buildings the medieval street pattern, the range in the area: approximately 400 buildings are of neo-classical buildings, the Victorian included on the Statutory List [32, Category contribution of boldly detailed Italianate A; 243, Category B and 122, Category C(S)]. banks, offices and Baronial tenements, with massive warehouses behind, all unified by the common use of stone, combine to produce a town centre which is among the best and most varied in Scotland. A rich mixture of civic buildings and mercantile architecture also survives particularly

10 Special Characteristics and Key Elements overall Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal at Bernard Street and The Shore. The concentration of public buildings within the Conservation Area makes an important contribution to the architectural character and reflects Leith’s former civic independence and importance.

Leith’s ecclesiastical history is very old, and the area has a considerable number of fine church buildings. The best is possibly the elegant neoclassical 18th century North Leith Parish Church, with its full-height Ionic portico and tall steeple, in Madeira Street. More common are Victorian Gothic buildings such as the South Leith Parish Church (1847-8) by Thomas Hamilton, in the Kirgate and St Mary Star of the Sea (1853-4) by Pugin & Hansom in Constitution Street. St. Thomas’s (1840-3) Church at the head of Sheriff Brae is now the Sikh Temple. The graveyard of South

Leith Parish Church contains a number of fine Georgian grave markers.

More modern and brutalist architecture of the 1950s and 60s is represented by Thomas Fraser Court, John Russell Court, Cables Wynd House (known as the ‘banana block’), Linksview House on the line of the old Tolbooth Wynd, and the Newkirkgate Shopping Centre. Other more recent developments such as Citadel Place, Hamburgh Place and West Cromwell Street have retained a low-rise human scale.

Materials & Details

Building types within the Conservation Area vary but are traditionally of stone, with slate roofs. Pockets of public housing development from the 1960s and 1970s, of a contemporary character, also fall within the Conservation Area. Warehouses are a prominent element throughout the central area, many of them fine examples of industrial architecture, which act as a backcloth to earlier buildings. Several fine Georgian and Victorian examples survive, many now converted for residential or office use. The large rubble warehouse at 87 Giles Street known as the Vaults is one of the earliest, dating from 1682, and most outstanding.

The Leith Conservation Area is of considerable size covering various historical periods and stages of development that form a variety of character areas and spatial patterns. For this analysis the Character Appraisal is split into four sub areas representing distinctive patterns of growth and development:

11 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Special Characteristics and Key Elements Medieval street pattern

Views Topography and Setting Streets Building Types Focal points

Landmarks Grain and Density Development Pattern Streetscape and Activity Activity

Views Spaces Landmarks

12 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Views

The central historic core of the Conservation As a result of the asymmetric road Area is bounded by the Port of Leith to the pattern there are few long views through north, Great Junction Street to the south, the area, but rather a strong sense of Constitution Street to the east and the enclosure and containment. Views are Water of Leith to the west. This area more predominantly internal. Longer views to or less coincides with that enclosed by the and from the Port of Leith and Nelson early defensive walls. Historically it was the Monument on Calton Hill relate Leith to centre of the port activities that sustained the city and to the sea. Leith’s growth and gave it an identity Towers and turrets of a variety of styles separate from Edinburgh. and scales mark views down most of On its eastern edge this sub-area covers the main streets. Examples include the the core of the conservation area along octagonal Art Nouveau tower at the Constitution Street, from Bernard Street end of Great Junction Street and the and the Port of Leith to the north, to Italianate octagonal tower on the Corn property surrounding the foot of Leith Exchange which terminates Constitution Walk, Great Junction Street and the river Street. Many of these landmark features estuary to the west. play a variety of roles.

The Shore area includes both sides of The spires on the corner buildings with the old harbour waterfront to the west. Bernard Street and Coalhill emphasise Distinctive and contrasting edges are and turn the corners, and their added provided by Great Junction Street and interest in the skyline attract and the Water of Leith. Great Junction Street encourage progress further towards the runs along the path of the old citadel wall Shore. The streets to either side provide retaining a straight and formal edge. The distant views to church spires in the river with its steeply rising banks, flowing in distance, which together with the varied a gently winding pattern to the sea, gives rooflines around the harbour, some of more organic and informal edges, softer the warehouses still being gable end on, and green along the upper reaches - harder the cranes and ships now visible in the and functional along the quays and harbour Port of Leith, provide interest and colour walls at the river mouth. to the skyline.

13 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Development pattern

The spatial structure of this area still reveals provision of amenity open spaces. The Maritime Street shows a change to the underlying medieval street pattern, with contrast with the later redevelopment of predominantly larger plot sizes occupied strong radial routes to and from the port. the 1960s is the use of ‘traditional’ urban by warehouses behind the Shore frontage. Constitution Street to the east resembles a design principles in relating buildings to Many of these warehouses and bonds are town main street. The redeveloped Kirkgate each other, to their surroundings and to now largely converted to residential use, runs between the Shore and Constitution the street, and in providing mixed uses with they stand cheek by jowl just allowing lanes Street. It retains the line of the original route ‘active’ street frontages. and wynds to squeeze between them, their in pedestrianised form and some of the bulk accentuating the narrowness of the The form of the Kirkgate Centre incorporates original buildings along it, including South lanes. This pattern of development reflects features, such as the separation of Leith Parish Church and Trinity House. its functional origins and priorities for the pedestrians and cars and the grouping efficient storage of goods, and though a The physical and visual disruption to the of buildings around a precinct, which are number of warehouses have been lost, this spatial structure caused by redevelopment a product of the urban design principles area still retains a robust urban character. in the 1960s is significant and makes analysis prevalent in British post-war reconstruction and description of the structure more and the development of new ‘satellite’ complex than first impressions convey. The communities. major redevelopment programme of the Constitution and Maritime Streets echo 1960s was the final part of a continuum the traditional street pattern. Although stretching back to the development of Constitution Street has been widened in Great Junction Street in the 18th century parts, many of the narrow individual plot and the late 19th century Leith Improvement widths reflected in the building frontages Programme. and the differing building heights along it Great Junction Street is strongly linear with are reminders of the earlier street pattern. its sense of formality strengthened by the This traditional spatial structure is still location of important institutions along its apparent in the network of narrow streets length, such as the former Leith Hospital, St. and lanes with their changing widths and Thomas’s Church, Dr. Bell’s School, and its curving layouts that lead from the western termination at the east by the clock tower of part of the Shore. The frequent street the former Leith Railway Station. Henderson interconnection, the pends running under Street demonstrates the Victorian interest buildings, the small scale of the perimeter in improving housing conditions; with its blocks and the variety of properties within model tenements, broader street width, them all reinforce this character. design for light and fresh air, and the 14 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal In the way that ancient road alignments tend to remain whilst the buildings The river has varying combinations of development change, the bends in the Water of Leith remains, gently angled by a series of and space. On the east side of the Shore the straight edges evidence of early moorings. The bustle of port activity has been continuity of frontages, the building line set to replaced by the calmer recreational pursuits of walking and cycling along the the pavement edge, and the road and quayside, riverside walkway. Following the section of river in the Conservation Area there contain the inner harbour. They frame it to give is a progression of moving from the openness of the parks on either side of its the impression of a long square and a focus for the banks, to the enclosure of the inner harbour back to the present openness of the area, especially to the cafes, bars and restaurants Port of Leith and eventually the sea beyond. Views through to the Port of Leith and that look out over it. This impression is retained on the sea are being considerably eroded, it is very important that contact with Leith’s the west side of the river, although development is maritime heritage and the operational port are not lost. more mixed and less tightly knit.

15 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The north end of Constitution Street is terminated by Bernard Street in which the The buildings range over almost the impression of a square is reinforced by a combination of the street layout, important civic whole of the 19th century, and although and commercial buildings and their architecture. The Buildings of Edinburgh describes their contribution to creating the space this part of Bernard Street as “Leith’s most formal space, a broad triangle with the may not have been due to a formal plan, combined atmosphere of a street and a square narrowing at its west end as it jinks to neither was it completely by accident. the left for its exit to the Shore”. The sudden turn of the street to the left at the west They demonstrate the continuation of a end means that the space is enclosed by buildings, an impression which is strengthened civic tradition in the design of individual by exposed gable ends at the ‘corners’. The former Leith Exchange with its giant ionic buildings which contribute to the creation columns terminates the east side of the ‘square’. However, the focal point is the former of a sense of place, a belief that their Leith Bank, the smallest building in the square. Only two storeys high, its ionic columns combined presence is more important than and bow front, the shallow domed roof over the banking hall, and the symmetry of the their individual status. frontage with matching pilastered bays to each side all combine to give it a presence far greater than its size would suggest. The symmetry is reinforced by the way the tenements on either side step up from it, first to three and then to four storeys towards the corners. The north side, though different in interpretation is of a similar formula.

16 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Grain & Density Streets Spaces

A dense fabric of closely grouped buildings Constitution Street was laid out at the end The area has a medieval structure at the separated by narrow lanes creates a of the 18th century, along the line of one of historic centre which is still reflected in the distinctive character. The main routes the old ramparts of the 1560 fortifications. network of narrow streets and lanes, the through the area are those which define It is characterised by the juxtaposition of frequent street interconnections, the small its edges: the Shore along the Water buildings of diverse architectural styles, size of the perimeter blocks and the variety of Leith, Constitution Street and Great dates and scales. These include Georgian of properties. Junction Street. The centre of Leith has villas, austere 19th century tenements, The Foot of the Walk is closed visually by been identified as an area of archaeological warehouses, and church buildings (St tenements at the end of the street. The west significance. James’, St John’s and St Mary’s star of the Sea). side of the street is set back behind large Great Junction Street follows the line of front gardens which opens up the space one of the ramparts of the Leith defensive between building lines and gives a visual walls of 1560. It was laid out in 1818 and is impression of Leith Walk terminating in a one of the busiest roads in Leith. Its straight square overlooked by the statue of Queen linear form contrasts with the narrower Victoria. The location of the former Leith winding roads to the north. The street is Central Station, the increase in pedestrians, defined by a long procession of mainly the bus terminals and street junctions all four-storey late 19th century tenements reinforce a sense of arrival. built hard to the heel of the pavement, and The Kirkgate was old Leith’s main street it is lined with shops at ground level, above with a lively and varied streetscape. The which are a few small businesses but mainly intimate urban pattern of winding streets residential properties. The tenement on and densely grouped buildings of the Old the Henderson Street corner (Nos. 48-52) Kirkgate was lost in the redevelopment of dates from 1885, and was the first buildings this area during the 1960s. The remaining erected under the Leith Improvement historic remnants include the 15th century Scheme. The former Leith Hospital forms a South Leith Parish Church, the earliest major architectural feature standing to the building in the area, the Gothic revival rear of Taylor Gardens. At the west end of style of which forms an interesting contrast the street the former Co-operative building to its opposite neighbour, the classically with its distinctive clock tower overlooking proportioned Trinity House. Taylor Gardens, forms a major landmark and the view eastwards is terminated by the clock tower on the corner of the former Leith Central Station. 17 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The New Kirkgate shopping precinct and housing development to the north disregard The spatial significance of Bernard Street the distinctive organic structure and scale of the surrounding urban pattern. The Kirgate is best appreciated when entering at is a courtyard of low rise housing with zigzag rendered fronts which is terminated by the the east and wider end where the street multi-storey slab of Linksview House. gradually narrows and changes direction, masking the western outlet and giving The eastwards approach to the Shore along Commercial Street, with high buildings on both a powerful enclosing effect to the street sides giving a strong sense of enclosure and direction, passes the monumental Customs space. The quality and cohesive grouping House and opens out dramatically to reveal the Water of Leith, the Inner Harbour and the of the flanking buildings, the variety of their Shore, a space of historic and visual interest. Bernard Street cuts through the centre of the architectural styles and roof shapes, and area and is lined with buildings of great architectural merit which reflect Leith’s thriving such incidental features as the decorative past, epitomising the mercantile prosperity of the 19th century. It forms the civic centre cast iron lamp posts are part of the street’s of the Conservation Area and is Leith’s most formal space; a broad triangle in which the individual character and visual interest. effect of enclosure, the irregular form and articulation of the space enclosed, and the relationship of the surrounding buildings create a place of great architectural interest. Early 19th century Georgian buildings line much of the south side of Bernard Street. The harbour remains a significant open space in which interest is provided by the buildings The centrepiece being the former Leith and activities on either bank. The views in this part of the Conservation Area are mainly Bank (1804) an elegant two storey classical internal. At either end there are limited views through the bridge towards the Port of structure with an Ionic-columned bow Leith and to distant church spires inland. Longer views down Henderson Street to the window standing on an island, separated Port of Leith and up Constitution Street to Calton Hill and teh Nelson Monument are also by narrow lanes on either side from the important. neighbouring three and four-storey blocks The contrast between open space and enclosure at the Shore is reinforced by a wall of and flanked by symmetrical tenements similar building heights and types set at the heel of pavement along the narrow quayside of 1807-15. The north side is more varied access road. Warehouses with a higher ratio of wall to window, where the windows are with the Italianate former Royal Bank smaller and at wider spacing than tenements, accentuate the enclosure. Tenement and of Scotland (1871-2) at the east end, former warehouse development around the harbour is mainly 4 to 5 storeys, of continuous followed by the Clydesdale Bank (1923), frontages and building lines, given vertical emphasis by gabled frontages and dormers. in a modernistic neo- Georgian. Then the early 19th century Nos. 8- 14, adjoining a The Inner Harbour of the Water of Leith provides a vibrant focus for the Conservation mid-Victorian palazzo, followed by the twin Area, the older parts of the Port of Leith, containing many early features including listed bows of Nos. 22-24. The north side of the dock buildings. Scheduled Ancient Monuments associated with the Port of Leith consist final section of Bernard Street is lined with of: the Victoria Bridge, the dry dock off Sandport Street, the swing bridge and lock at the late Georgian buildings. The restrained East Old Dock, and features related to the Albert Dock. Georgian grouping is broken by the Baronial detailing of Nos. 50-58.

18 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Building Types

Warehouse conversions in Maritime and Water, Streets and Timber Bush show how the traditional character can be preserved. Overall their conversion retains the sense of confinement given their robust stone construction, pend entrances, punched windows, and cast iron work detailing. The retention of the original streetscape of setts and stone kerbs, iron rails and cart track stones, heavy cast iron bollards protecting corners and entrances all still convey an image of a busy maritime past.

New developments have shown mixed responses to the traditional character of the area. Sheriff Bank and Park with their suburban layout, frequent changes in scale, miniaturised proportions and orange brick, do not reflect the traditional character. The recent developments in Shore Place and Bowies Close, retain and tie in sympathetically with existing buildings at either end of the street, their frontages replicate narrow plot widths giving a vertical emphasis which is reinforced by changes in material and traditional gablets.

19 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Landmarks

The bronze statue of Burns (1898) stands at the junction of Bernard Street and Constitution Street, adjoining the massive five storey Waterloo Buildings (1820) with its setback bowed corner, which is the largest and grandest of Leith’s Georgian tenements. Distinguished buildings such as the old Corn Exchange, and the dignified 18th century Exchange Building provide a strong civic character to the junction. The Italianate former Corn Exchange (1860-3) emphasises its prominent corner site with an octagonal domed tower surmounted by a cupola, flanked by two storeys of arcaded windows and incorporates a distinctive carved frieze.

A number of significant early historic buildings are located in the Shore area. These include:

• The circular battlemented Signal Tower, built in 1686 by Robert Mylne as a windmill for making rape-seed oil, which forms an important focal point at the corner of the Shore and Tower Street.

• Lamb’s House in Water’s Close off Burgess Street is one of the largest and most architecturally important early 17th century merchants’ houses in Scotland. It is an impressive four storeys, incorporating traditional architectural features such as harled walls, corbels, asymmetrical gablets, crowsteps, a steep pitched pantiled roof, and windows with fixed leaded upper lights with shutters below. The building was restored and converted into a day centre for the elderly in 1959 by Robert Hurd and has recently been refurbished as a house and office by Groves Raines Architects.

• St Ninian’s Church and Manse which dates from circa 1493 with later reconstructions. The building incorporates a distinctive ogee spire, and has been recently restored and converted for residential / commercial.

• The King’s Wark at the corner of Bernard Street and The Shore has characteristic Dutch gables and scrolled skewputts in typical early 18th century fashion. It stands on older foundations and was part of a complex of buildings that included a chapel, royal mansion and tennis court.

20 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal • The Custom House in Commercial Street was designed by Robert Reid in 1812. Its Greek Doric Revival style is typical of the way Leith buildings of the period tended to reflect on a smaller scale those of the neo-classical New Town of Edinburgh.

Notable buildings on Great Junction Street include:

• The former State Cinema at No. 105 dating from 1938 in a Modern Movement style with white geometric walls massing up to a pagoda inspired tower.

• An Edwardian Art Nouveau inspired group at 160-174 which includes the former Leith Provident Cooperative Society building with its imposing domed octagonal corner-tower and a four-storey red sandstone fronted Glasgow style tenement dating from 1905.

• The long Tudor frontage of Dr Bell’s School which dates from 1839 with its crowstepped screen walls, octagonal piers and ornately canopied niche containing a statue of Dr Andrew Bell who endowed the school in 1831. It was taken over by the Leith School Board in 1891 (becoming the Great Junction Street School). At the rear of the original building, the Swimming Baths of 1896 reflect the architectural style of the school.

• St Thomas’s is a plain late-classical church dating from 1824-5.

Notable buildings on Constitution Street include:

• Leith Assembly Rooms and Exchange (Nos. 37-43), dating from 1809. The Exchange Building was built as a meeting place for merchants, and incorporated the Assembly Rooms which were the centre of old Leith’s social scene while the Exchange and Bernard Street were regarded as the commercial centre. The building presents a long three storey frontage to Constitution Street with a central pediment incorporating Ionic columns. It fits in well with the scale of Bernard Street creating a varied but unified composition.

• Leith Town Hall and Police Station is located at the north east corner of Constitution Street and Queen Charlotte Street. A robust monumental neo-classical building which makes excellent use of its corner site.

• 92 Constitution Street was built as a merchant’s house in 1793 and with its giant Corinthian pilasters and urns surmounting the pediment is the grandest late 18th century house in Leith.

21 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streetscape & Activity

The robust streetscape enhances the character of the medieval core and the harbour. In the historic core of Leith, the street pattern retains elements of its medieval Leith is an intensively developed urban area with a multiplicity of land use activities co- form and most of the principal roads within existing with the predominant residential use. It contains a full range of social, commercial the Conservation Area were established and community facilities, and performs an important shopping and service role for people in the 19th century. The flow of large working and living in the area. There has been a substantial reduction in Leith’s traditional commercial vehicles and other traffic manufacturing industries around which its growth was based. However, industry remains an detracts from their environmental quality. important land use in Leith, but is now spread across a more diverse base with increasing Redevelopment on the northern fringes of growth in the service and technology sectors. the Conservation Area herald further retail, The business area is centred on its historic core and contains a variety of commercial office and residential development. activities amidst housing and shops. The office of the Scottish Executive is based at The streetscape at the Shore matches the Victoria Quay, and the Port of Leith are an important port with some 2000 jobs based character of the medieval core and the in the dock area. Outside of the historic core residential uses within mainly tenemental robust surfaces required for the harbour. property, with retail uses on the ground floors, predominate. Most of the streets are setted with stone Leith’s urban heritage and identity also make it a pleasant and stimulating place to live, kerbs intact. The quay side is separated by work and visit. The range of mixed uses contributes considerable pedestrian movement bollards with chains linking them. Many of and an active ‘street life’, an important feature in the area’s character. Its riverside location the capstans used to tie up boats remain in and the increasing range of restaurants and similar establishments have also made it an place. The contemporary design of the new attraction for tourists and other visitors. dock gates, the sculptures and tree guards reinforce the prevailing character. Good examples of the reinstatement of original railings and a contemporary gateway supporting a globe can also be found in Dock Place. Throughout the area there are many early 20th century street lighting standards with decorative brackets.

22 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Special Characteristics and Key Elements

Topography and Setting

Grain and Density

Views

Streets

Development Pattern

Building Types

Peripheral street pattern Landmarks Views

Materials & Details Focal points

Landmarks Streetscape & Activity Activity

23 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Development pattern

Madeira forms a triangular area in the west Madeira retains the appearance of a planned extension with its focus on North Leith of the Conservation Area. The north side is Parish Church. Development, however, was sporadic and took place over much of the bounded by the bonded warehouses which 19th century. The formality of the street layout, the apparent symmetry of the Georgian run along the entire length of Commercial architecture and disposition of key buildings to create focal points and vistas all contribute Street; the west by the high stone wall of to the impression of this area as Leith’s own version of the New Town. Leith Fort, which runs down one side of Portland Street; and the east by the Water This formality is best demonstrated today by Madeira Street and Prince Regent Street, of Leith. terminated by North Leith Parish Church, in a layout which is an example of scaled down classically inspired urban design. The approach uphill from the Port of Leith to the Church is processional, the climb up the hill accentuating the separation from the water’s edge. Views The uniformity and formality of the layout along Prince Regent Street is softened in the The former Town Hall and main library surrounding streets by subtle variations in plot size and building design. The mix of plot are located at the start of Ferry Road widths, the variety of architects involved, the differing house types, larger front gardens indicating a historic change of focus for and an air of faded grandeur all help to reinforce a more informal and relaxed character. Leith’s institutions. The most impressive Ferry Road, the main access to Madeira, landmarks are the bonded warehouses is at this point more densely developed along Commercial Street, North Leith and provides a more urban environment Parish Church with its tall and elegant spire of tenements with a mix of commercial which acts as a focal point in views along uses at ground floor. The intersection with Prince Regent and most recently the new Great Junction Street is the setting for Scottish Executive Office at Victoria Quay. the Town Hall and main library built in the Much of the area is introspective with 1930s. Relief to this more urban character is planned or glimpsed views to the spire of provided by the Memorial Gardens along North Leith Parish Church, some of these North Junction Street, Keddie Gardens off views down lanes, through gates and Largo Place and the gardens with gable pends, to the cemetery and the rear of the wall mural at the corner of Ferry Road and Library create considerable interest and North Junction Street. charm. From the bridge over the Water of Leith, views open out back to the city with Calton Hill and the Castle visible either side of the warehouses along South Fort Street.

24 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Grain & Density Streets

A number of modern developments The majority of routes into the area link it back to the historical core of Leith. From the east, have not been sympathetic to the spatial four bridges cross the river and act as gateways into the area. From the west the descent structure. The housing along Portland and on the coast road, Lindsay Road, to the raised walkway and six storey mass of the bayed Commercial Streets is suburban in scale, tenement at the corner with North Junction Street creates a sense of passing through into although its backland location makes it less a more dense and urban form of development. Junctions are usually associated with a apparent. The tower block at Cooper Street sense of arrival at the centre of a settlement, but in Leith they are also in gateway locations. is set across the middle of the old street line. The most used approach today is along Ferry Road, where the boundary and development The west bank of the river as it approaches of the Conservation Area is conterminous with that of the Victoria Park Conservation Area. the Shore becomes an area of transition Ferry Road is one of the oldest routes leading to and from Leith and whilst sequences of from the mainly residential character of differing building heights are discernible along it, these appear to relate to the growth of Madeira. The mix of small industrial estates, formerly independent settlements rather than an intention to form gateways. infill ‘suburban’ housing developments and vacant sites, make the spatial structure less Ferry Road and Great Junction Street are bounded by a continuous intact and distinctive than that on the east building line, usually of four storey tenements with shops on the of the Shore. Many of the now subsidiary ground floor set to the heel of the pavement. Residential uses streets appear to have connected with predominate on the side streets. There is a continuity of three the water, suggesting a previous need for storey tenements along Madeira and Prince Regent Streets, but direct access routes convenient for earlier beyond the building sizes are more mixed. They range from modes of transport. Whilst the bonded single storey cottages, colony type flats, terraced villas to three warehouses along Commercial Street form and four storey tenements, at some corner locations with shops a barrier between Madeira and the port, projecting into the front garden space. Despite this mix they the connections between these routes are characterised by a terraced form, and a continuous street and the gaps between warehouses are still frontages only rarely broken by mews lanes or pends through apparent. to the rear. Their use of standard proportions, sash and case windows, a similar sand stone and slate roofing reinforces a sense of uniformity, even if less formal than the New Town.

25 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Building Types Materials & Details

The north side of Commercial Street is The Madeira area retains a largely occupied almost entirely by former bonded homogeneous Georgian domestic warehouses on a continuous building line character, with stone buildings and right to the heel of the pavement. Their slate roofs predominating; some of blackened stone work, small window the Georgian buildings retain astragal openings, lack of access doors to the street, windows and doors with fanlights. long eaves and ridge lines are only relieved by changes in height and the occasional Streetscape & Activity rotunda providing light and ventilation to the floors below. Property on the other side The main routes in the area foresaw large of the street includes Leith’s original railway volumes of traffic and are significantly station and is more mixed in use and in broader and straighter than those of form. the early historic core. With tenements and warehouses directly onto the pavement, they have a robust and Landmarks practical character, sometimes marked Madeira Place, with a terrace of circa 1825 by the remains of railway or tram lines on its north side, leads to Madeira Street lined by the high Fort stone walls; which has North Leith Parish Church as its sturdy cast iron bollards, some of which centrepiece. The church, with its Greek have recently been identified as old Doric portico and classical steeple, is an canons, with gates and weighbridges important early example of the Greek at the accesses to the Port of Leith. Revival style by William Burn and provides Many of the roads are setted, the main a visual focus to this mainly residential area, exception being Prince Regent Street, which also includes major public buildings and stone garden walls are a feature of such as Leith Library and Town Hall. the area.

26 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Special Characteristics and Key Elements

Peripheral street pattern

Views Topography and Setting Focal points

Views Landmarks Quiet

Streets

Scale

Landmarks

Materials & Details

27 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting

Leith Links is located to the east of The present layout of the Links was the Conservation Area and is similar in established in the 1880s as part of the Leith character to those other parks and gardens Improvement Scheme. They form the most in Edinburgh, for example the Meadows extensive area of parkland in Leith covering and Pilrig Park, formed by the draining of an area of 48 acres (19.44 hectares), and former lochs. Development is confined to are bordered by John’s Place on the west the outer side of all the roads surrounding side, Seafield Place on the east and are it and while the sense of containment by dissected mid-way by Links Gardens. Their development is greater to the west nearly open expanse is in striking contrast to the all the edges are dominated by mature densely developed parts of Central Leith trees. The exception is that part of the north and areas south of the Links. They form east edge fringed by industrial premises. an attractive, large open space with tree- lined avenues and walkways and are used Leith Links forms the largest area of open for a whole range of recreational purposes. green space in the Conservation Area. The Facilities include putting and bowling Links once extended as far as Portobello and greens, cricket and football pitches and a are intimately associated with the history of children’s play area. Walkers, joggers and Leith. The two visible mounds on the Links, families also extensively use the Links for known as the Giant’s Brae and Lady Fyfe’s games and picnics. An allotment area is Brae, are reputedly old gun emplacements situated on the north side. dating back to the siege of Leith in 1560 when the English army bombarded the The Links have been designated as a French held citadel. It was also where the Millennium Park, a status that ensures sick were brought during the great plague that it will be protected for the future, of 1645. The Links have long provided a and the Artillery Mounds on the Links are recreational facility for Leith being the home Scheduled Ancient Monuments. The park of the Leith Races and in the 17th and 18th is also recognised as a neighbourhood centuries were recognised as Edinburgh’s nature area within the Nature Conservation premier place for golf. It is likely that the Strategy. golf course was an attraction that resulted in the construction of many fine houses close to the Links.

28 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Views

The focus created where the north ends of The prospect westwards from Hermitage Duncan Street and John’s Place lying behind Easter and Lochend Roads meet is marked Place has panoramic qualities with the Constitution Street reflect a more urban by Leith - St. Andrews Church and the broad expanse of the Links and, in the character with their mix of institutional and former Leith Academy. Views westwards background, an interesting sequence of educational uses, churches, warehouses along Vanburgh Place and through the contrasting but well-related buildings: and Georgian tenements. The small triangle Links focus on the church spire of Leith St. Leith Academy, the terraced houses in of park at Wellington / St Andrew’s Place is Andrews and to the bell tower of the former Wellington Place, massive warehouses developed on two sides and could have the Leith Academy Annex, which terminates with their regular pattern of windows, the appearance of a village green. the north end of Easter and Lochend Victorian Gothic Church of St James, the Around part of the north side, a harder Roads. In the distance the spire of St. James unified Georgian terrace in John’s Place character is maintained by Victorian Church, once at the heart of the town and and the late 18th century detached houses tenements. Smaller streets on to Link’s Place still a major landmark, soars above the tree in Queen Charlotte Street. create permeability. Villa development canopy. The tower of Kirkgate House looms is located to the south looking over the up to one side. longest side of the Links and gradually reduces in density as it extends away from the centre. 29 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streets

The openness and greenery of the Links The western side of Leith Links is surrounded is in contrast to its approaches. From the by a continuous line of four storey buildings north east, it is completely obscured by of good architectural quality, which provide industrial premises and the access is via a strong edge to the park. The eastern end a sharp turn off from Seafield Road which of the Links tapers to a narrow point, lined then passes under a former railway bridge on the south by particularly fine two storey before trees and green are revealed. At Georgian terraces and villas set behind the corner of Seafield Road, in the midst of stone boundary walls, and on the north industrial and warehouse sheds, stands the by industrial buildings behind Salamander former Seafield Baths, now converted on Street. The sense of containment is the ground floor to a public house with flats enhanced by well-established mature tree above. Dating from 1810-13, the building planting. with its projecting doric porticos, linked The group of buildings on Claremont Park, above by shallow domed roofs forms one designed by Thomas Hamilton from 1827, is of the most graceful buildings turning a of outstanding architectural quality. Designs street corner in the whole city. vary but unity is provided by gatepiers with The approach from the west is through the shallow pyramidal tops and linking screen narrow confines of Duke Street. The Links walls separating the back and front gardens. provides a sense of release from Leith’s The terrace on East Hermitage Place, was densely tight urban core. The tapering form commenced by the Industrial Co-operative of the Links accentuates the perspective, Building Society in 1868, but not completed making it seem longer and even more until 1883. Robert Burn drew up the plan spacious. The terraced villas have short front for West Hermitage Place in 1800, and, in gardens which create a transition in planting 1825, Thomas Bonnar prepared elevations from the trees around the Links. There are for the unfeued plots. It contains a simple gate openings for pedestrian access and terrace dating from 1805, and later grander none of the gardens has been given over to houses incorporating rusticated stonework off street car parking. Continuity is given to and typical Georgian decoration. Vanburgh the varying plot sizes on the south side of Place, a unified terrace, was designed and the Links by small dwarf walls and railings. built by William Lamb from 1825.

30 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Scale Materials & Details

The earlier villas along Hermitage/ Unity is given to terraced and detached Vanburgh Terrace are two storey terraces villas by the continuity of small dwarf walls with the rhythm of their narrow plot widths with railings on the same line along the emphasised by repeating bay windows, heel of the pavement. This detail continues original attic dormers and chimney heads along the larger plots of the detached giving vitality to their long frontage. These and semi-detached villas where the street continue down to the entrance to Restalrig becomes Claremont Park. Here entrances Road and are followed by five tenemental are marked by repeating stone gate piers four storey blocks. From here to the end with shallow pyramidal caps and the of the Links, the villas are two storey semi- remains in most cases of cast iron brackets detached and detached. presumably for lights. These provide for vehicular access, and some villas have Landmarks screen walls separating front and back gardens. ‘The Buildings of Edinburgh’ cites At the east end of the Links are the gates, these villas between the tenements and railings and lodge to Seafield cemetery. red sandstone houses at the east end of Their potential to terminate the view at the Claremont Park as “ a line of villas whose end of Claremont Park is partially obscured concentrated architectural quality makes it by mature trees. However, this makes their among the best such group in Edinburgh.” discovery one of Leith’s surprises. Trees also obscure the former St. Andrews Place Church, now the Hindu temple. Its full height pedimented portico and giant ionic columns create a frontage of real presence.

31 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Special Characteristics and Key Elements Link street pattern Topography and Setting Views

Focal points Grain and Density Landmarks

Streets Activity

Landmarks

32 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Streets

Leith Walk is one of the most important Leith Walk starts outside the Conservation routes in the city. Its continuity as it stretches Area. The steep slope and narrow street gradually downhill from the city centre is width down from the former North British so prominent that it is clearly visible from Hotel frames the dramatic view up to its many high vantage points around the city. landmark clock tower. To the north, from It links the old fortified town of Edinburgh the Picardy Place roundabout the views are and its sea port, as other European capital gradually restricted by the changing street cities are linked with their ports. width. From the roundabout and clock at the junction with London Road the street Grain & Density seems to pick up momentum for its journey northwards. The slope downhill and the Leith Walk is characterised by a mix of gentle curve draw the traveller along the buildings of widely varied design, use, street in the absence of any one particular quality and relationship to the street. focal point, until Kirkgate House becomes Victorian tenements set to the heel of the visible. Pilrig Church acts as a pivot to this pavement predominate, particularly on the curve helping to add to the momentum. east side, with shops and pubs at ground The Foot of the Walk with its set back to floor level. The west side is less co-ordinated the west gives the impression of another with Georgian development, tenements elongated square like that at Bernard Street, and industrial buildings. There are number and provides a sense of arrival. The gently of Georgian survivals, notably Smith’s curving form of the street is accentuated by Place, which was laid out as a cul-de-sac by the greenways, heavy white lines and raised 1814. It consists of a palace fronted block central reservation. Many of the side streets on its north side, later plainer tenements on retain their setts which reflect the different the south and an architecturally significant colours of sandstone in the buildings giving two storey villa, with a rusticated basement an ‘integrity’ to the townscape and helping and Venetian windows, terminating the to slow traffic. eastern end of the cul-de-sac. The building at 7 Steads Place is a former small country house dating from around 1750 and is one of the earliest on Leith Walk.

33 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal A hard continuous edge is given to the east Casselbank Street with its mix of Turkish and Leith Walk is a busy urban thoroughfare by almost uniform and repetitive tenements. gothic inspired architecture is set against and the main road linking the centre of These continue to form traditional more Georgian survivals. This demonstrates Edinburgh to the old burgh of Leith. It has a perimeter blocks around common greens the importance of the building line and the strongly directional character, rising gently down the side streets. These are given life perimeter block as organising elements from the Foot of the Walk, with linear vistas. by the local communities and the variety of in the development pattern and shows, It is terminated to the north by the tower goods and services on offer in ground floor in contrast to the formal and planned block of the New Kirkgate development premises. development of Smith’s Place, how an which contrasts with the visual scale of the informal and almost romantic architecture bay fronted Georgian building at the Foot The side streets to the east are mainly can also produce significant townscape. of the Walk which forms the foreground. residential, but several include churches or a school and just to the edge of the area are completely taken up by a park such as at Iona / Sloan Streets. One exception to this block form is Smith’s Place, the focus of which is the splendid decorative and pedimented villa by James Smith.

The development pattern, building types and uses on the west side are more diverse. Tenements are still the predominant form, but they show much greater variety in their design, heights, building lines, roofscapes and ages which in many cases look much earlier than that to the east. In places tenements are interspersed with town houses or smaller tenements well set back with front gardens to the street. Middlefield Casselbank Street is a small Georgian mansion which has development in its original front garden and the corner tenement into Pilrig Street is followed by Georgian villas gently stepping down the hill towards Pilrig Park. Smith’s Place

34 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Landmarks

The Foot of Leith Walk, where four The spiky Gothic spire of Pilrig and Dalmeny roads and a pedestrian route meet, is an Street Church, approximately halfway down important arrival point in the Conservation Leith Walk, is a conspicuous and important Area and a lively commercial and social landmark at what was the old boundary focal point. The bronze statue of Queen between the City of Edinburgh and the Victoria, which stands in a central position former Burgh of Leith. A slight curve in the in the area of open space with a low bow street line at Pilrig prevents a continuous fronted Georgian block as a backdrop, is vista along the full length of the street. one of Leith’s principal landmarks.

Kirkgate House, despite its camouflaged outline, towers over the Foot of the Walk making it appear out of context with its surroundings. Pilrig Church with its cascading roofscapes to Pilrig Street and its spire and eastern facade which terminate Iona Street are as good as the set pieces in some of the city’s better known locations. Less dominant, but with the reflection of a different culture, the accentuated roofscapes and distantly familiar timber belfry of the Ukrainian Catholic Church gives added interest to Dalmeny Street.

35 Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Conservation areas National policy

The Planning (Listed Buildings and The demolition of unlisted buildings The Scottish Historic Environment Policy Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997 considered to make a positive contribution (SHEP) is the strategic statement of national states that conservation areas "are areas to the area is only permitted in exceptional policy relating to the historic environment. of special architectural or historic interest, circumstances, and where the proposals the character or appearance of which it is meet certain criteria relating to condition, The Development Plan desirable to preserve or enhance". Local conservation deficit, adequacy of efforts The Edinburgh City Local Plan sets out authorities have a statutory duty to identify to retain the building and the relative policies and proposals for the development and designate such areas. public benefit of replacement proposals. and use of land in the City. The policies in Conservation area character appraisals are Special attention must be paid to the Plan are used to determine applications a material consideration when considering the character and appearance of the for development. applications for development within conservation area when planning controls conservation areas. are being exercised. Conservation area In broad summary, the key policy areas status brings a number of special controls: affecting the Leith Conservation Area are: Listed buildings • The demolition of unlisted buildings • Design of new development DES 1, 3, 5, requires conservation area consent. A significant proportion of buildings within 11, 12 Leith are listed for their special architectural • Listed buildings ENV 2-4 • Permitted development rights, which or historic interest and are protected allow improvements or alterations to the under the Planning (Listed Buildings and • Conservation areas ENV 5-6 external appearance of dwellinghouses Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997. • Historic gardens and designed and flatted dwellings, are removed. Listed building consent is required for landscapes ENV 7 the demolition of a listed building, or its • Works to trees are controlled (see Trees alteration or extension in any manner which • Archaeology ENV 8-9 for more detail). would affect its special character. • Trees ENV 12

• Natural heritage and nature conservation ENV 10-16 The proposed City of Edinburgh Local Development Plan (LDP) contains broadly similar policies and is a material consideration in current planning decisions.

36 Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Planning guidance GPDO and Article 4 Directions

More detailed, subject-specific guidance is The Town and Country Planning (General 24 Development carried out on industrial set out in Planning Guidance documents. Permitted Development) (Scotland) land for the purposes of an industrial Those particularly relevant to the Leith Order 1992, amended 2012, (abbreviated process; Conservation Area are: to GPDO), restricts the types of 25 The creation of a hard surface within development which can be carried out in • Guidance for Householders the curtilage of an industrial building or a conservation area without the need for warehouse; • Guidance for Businesses planning permission. These include most alterations to the external appearance of • Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas 35 Development on operational land by dwellinghouses and flats. Development statutory undertakers in respect of • Developer contributions and affordable is not precluded, but such alterations will dock, pier, harbour, water transport, or housing require planning permission and special canal or inland navigation undertakings; • Edinburgh Design guidance attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. See Guidance on Householder 38 Development by statutory undertakers • Communications Infrastructure Permitted Development Rights 2012. for the purpose of water undertakings; • Street Design Guidance - draft to be Under Article 4 of the GPDO the planning 39 Development by public gas supplier; published authority can seek the approval of the and In addition, a number of statutory tools Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict 40 Development by electricity statutory are available to assist development development rights further. The Directions undertaker. management within the conservation area: effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor developments in conservation areas which can cumulatively lead to the erosion of character and appearance. The Leith Conservation Area has Article 4 Directions covering the following classes of development:

7 The erection, construction, maintenance, improvement or alteration of a gate, fence, wall or other means of enclosure;

23 The extension or alteration of an industrial building or a warehouse;

37 Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Trees Landscape and Biodiversity

Trees within conservation areas are The Council has an obligation to take covered by the Town and Country Planning account of the impact of development (Scotland) Act 1997. This Act applies to on species protected by legislation and the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree international commitments. The Nature having a diameter exceeding 75mm at Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004 places a point 1.5m above ground level. The a duty on all public bodies to further the planning authority must be given six weeks conservation of biodiversity as far as is notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop consistent with their functions. trees. Failure to give notice will render the person liable to the same penalties as for Landscape and Scenery contravention of a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). Local Nature Sites and Protected Species TPOs are used to secure the preservation of trees which are of significant stature, in Archaeology (historical map) sound condition, and prominently located to be of public amenity value. When Leith’s archaeology contains some of assessing contribution to amenity, the Scotland’s best urban archaeological importance of trees as wildlife habitats deposits and historic buildings. Recent will be taken into consideration. There is excavations within its historic core have a strong presumption against any form established evidence for a pre-burgh (pre of development or change of use of land 1128) settlement and for the development which is likely to damage or prejudice of the town and port from 12th century to the future long term existence of trees the present day. covered by a TPO. The removal of trees for The wealth of archaeological remains and arboricultural reasons will not imply that the artefacts has aided the understanding space created by their removal can be used of medieval domestic life. Due to Leith’s for development. role as a port and its importance in the development of trade, there is a vast legacy of industrial and maritime artefacts still visible including cranes, dry docks and warehouses.

38 Management - Pressures and Sensitivities Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The following pressures are associated with these would benefit from improvement. missing architectural details (such as railings development proposals which conservation There are also few linkages available to the and decorative stone enhancement), area designation, together with the Council’s Port of Leith, and integration is essential poorly executed mortar repairs, leaking policies and guidance, are designed to between the port and the tenemental rainwater goods and structural movement. manage. The Edinburgh Design Guidance, heartland. The quality of alterations to shop fronts, Guidance for Householders and Listed extensions, dormers and other minor Public realm improvements should take Buildings and Conservation Areas explain alterations needs to be improved. account of a range of issues including; the Council’s approach to design in historic transport movement, pedestrian flow, street Important heritage features, within Leith, contexts. furniture, lighting and landscape quality. range in scale from small streetscape items such as bollards, rail lines and quay walls The main objective is to ensure that the Townscape to larger scale structures. These should be public realm is regarded and understood as The quality of the townscape is a critical integrated into developments providing a an historic element of the Leith Conservation factor in the enhancement of the valuable contribution to the identity and Area, and that any alterations to it take the conservation area. It is essential that quality of the public realm. historical and cultural significance of the the traditional townscape character is public realm into consideration. preserved and enhanced, and that a Activities and Uses high quality, sustainable and vibrant Leith is an intensively developed urban area environment is created for present and Architectural Character with a multiplicity of land use activities co- future communities. Respect for design Leith’s architectural character with both existing with the predominant residential should be demonstrated in the way new civic and commercial institutions reflects its use. It contains a full range of social, buildings are inserted into the framework former independence and maritime history. commercial and community facilities, of the existing townscape; on the one hand The historical and architectural importance and performs an important shopping and respecting its scale and form while on the of Leith is reflected in the concentration service role for people working and living other producing contemporary architecture of statutorily listed buildings in the area. in the area. of the highest quality. However, many historic buildings are no longer used for their original purpose, There has been a substantial reduction in Public Realm require extensive repairs and are vacant or Leith's traditional manufacturing and port under utilised. related industries around which its growth The public realm of Leith offers a wealth of was based. However, industry remains streets, squares and spaces, gardens and Generally, a low priority is given to ongoing an important land use in Leith, and is pedestrian spaces which act as a setting building maintenance and repair which is now spread across a more diverse base for the historic buildings and make an exacerbated due to the levels of multiple with increasing growth in the service and important contribution to the architectural ownership. More detailed historic building technology sectors. character of the area. However, many of issues include: stone work deterioration, 39 Management - Pressures and Sensitivities Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Community

Residential uses, within mainly traditional Community regeneration involves building is recognised for its natural heritage tenement property and with retail uses on strong, safe and attractive places. The importance, in providing important open the ground floors, predominate. However, quality of houses, shops, commercial space and in the setting of the Conservation some recent development has seen the premises, community facilities, local Area. The extensive area of open space at erosion of such mixed uses and a creation parks, green spaces, play areas, roads and Leith Links the local parks and green space of single-use zones of shopping, business pavements directly impact on the image within the urban area are also important and housing. and sense of comfort and safety. for their seclusion, historic context, recreational and natural heritage value. The It is important to support the vitality and Recent, high value new development has existing tree groups and specimens are viability of Leith Walk, the Foot of the attracted people on higher than average particularly important to the character of Walk and Great Junction St as a retail incomes whose lifestyles are in contrast to the Conservation Area. and commercial centre. Environmental many local residents living in the tenemental improvements and repairs within and heartland. A critical concern for local people The Forth coastline is generally recognised around the shopping area are required and business is about “closing the gap” to for its natural heritage importance and to help create a safer and more attractive ensure that the whole community benefits, in many parts provides important open shopping environment. from increased investment, in a sustainable space. The Port of Leith separates the and balanced way. In particular, there is Conservation Area from a direct relationship High traffic volumes threaten the character evidence through public consultations of with the estuary. The outer shoreline is of the Conservation Area particularly of the priority need to ensure a continuing protected as both an Urban Wildlife Site in Bernard Street, Commercial Street, Great sense of place and belonging, one in Edinburgh and as a Site of Special Scientific Junction Street and Ferry Road. New which old traditions remain alongside the Interest (SSSI) nationally. Special Protection development should incorporate safe new in a mixed, balanced and sustainable Area (SPA) and Ramsar status, that give it access by a range of means of transport community. European/ International importance for its options. The design of development can wintering bird populations and wetlands, assist in altering the relative attractiveness reinforce the SSSI designation. Under this of different transport modes and in Natural Heritage designation proposals are being drawn up encouraging means of access other than The Water of Leith Walkway and Corridor for the creation of a tern colony within the by private car. In considering the design is central to the Conservation Area western harbour area. of development, priority should be and important for its natural heritage, given to providing convenient access for open space and recreational value. It is pedestrians and cyclists. The intrusive effect designated as an Urban Wildlife Site and of car parking should also be sensitively is an important habitat for a wide range of controlled. flora and fauna. The Firth of Forth coastline

40 Management - Pressures and Sensitivities Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Port of Leith

Forth Ports is the statutory Harbour Forth Ports Ltd will continue to function as a The Port of Leith is the largest impounded Authority for the Firth of Forth and performs port operation infrastructure organisation. deepwater port in Scotland of which a number of functions as prescribed by The Port requires flexibility to deliver the Imperial Dock is a key infrastructure asset. legislation including overseeing the safety best service it can for its customers. This This allows it to handle vessels which cannot of navigation and licensing of all works relates to both land usage as well as cargo be handled elsewhere within the country between the tidal limits inland and the handling services. The port estate is well and underlines how important the Port is at mouth of the Firth. utilised and despite some perceptions that a national level. It accommodates and can there are large areas of land lying empty, handle a broad range of requirements. A The Port of Leith has been in existence this is not the case. Land within the Port will key strength is its flexibility, which allows it since the 14th Century and Leith has been continue to be fully utilised for port use. to respond to a range of markets. shaped and grown up around the Port, These areas include the main port estate, helping to give it the history and character Britannia Quay and Seafield. All these areas it has today. The Port has had to adapt over are important to the port operation and will years to the changing economy and has continue to remain in industrial use. been successful in doing this and making it a key asset for both Edinburgh and Forth Over recent years the Port of Leith has Ports. experienced an increase in activity, with 2014 being recorded as its most successful Forth Ports Limited has a clear strategy year in recent times. The Port hosts some to continue as an infrastructure business 500-600 vessel calls per year and handles and has stated its commitment to the around 1 million tonnes of cargo. The Port continued operation of the Port of Leith of Leith is responsible for 533 (full time as a port infrastructure operation, utilising equivalent) jobs and supports the provision its operational estate in its entirety for port of local goods and services. In addition, operational uses. The City of Edinburgh the Port of Leith provides ‘free’ berth to Council and Forth Ports Ltd are committed the Royal Yacht Britannia. Through port to working in partnership. This approach enabled projects it generates in the region will enable the economic benefits to be of £133M GVA per annum and 1,556 (full realised from the Port of Leith’s unique time equivalent) jobs. assets supporting the local Leith, wider City The Port of Leith operational area economies and beyond.

41 Management - Opportunities for Planning Action Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Council recognises that the Leith • To require the highest standards of Conservation Area is a living environment materials and workmanship for all works that will continue to adapt and develop. associated with the built heritage. Conservation area status does not mean a • Materials and techniques should respect prohibition on development. The Council traditional practice. will carefully manage change to ensure that the character and appearance of conservation areas are safeguarded and enhanced. The following are the main aims within the conservation area:

• To ensure that the historic and architectural character of listed buildings in the Leith Conservation Area is maintained, there is a presumption against demolition. Alterations should not harm the elements that contribute to the special interest of the building and its setting.

• To promote new high quality architecture which is sympathetic to the historic character, reflects and interprets the particular qualities of its surroundings, and responds to and reinforces the distinctive patterns of development, townscape, landscape, scale, materials and quality in the Leith Conservation Area.

• To ensure that historic street patterns, open spaces, associated landscaping and materials are maintained, protected and enhanced, and that any alterations give due consideration to the historical and cultural significance of the public

realm. 42 Management - Leith Inner Harbour Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The ancient Port of Leith and in particular The closure of the tidal flow of the Water of the Old Inner Harbour, dating from 1143 Leith in 1968 has contributed significantly was the most significant harbour in Scotland to silting of the harbour basins with the for centuries. The original layout of the four consequent increased risk of flooding, Inner Harbour basins remains unchanged, which has noticeably risen in recent years. other than the introduction or replacement Silting and the construction of bridges of bridges and the infilling of associated mean that the basins are no longer dry docks, some of which are designated navigable - existing barges have been Ancient Monuments. While a number of brought in by crane. These, together buildings that faced onto the basins have with the adjacent overgrown trees and been demolished a significant number of uncontrolled parking, block the view of the historically important properties remain, water and restrict public use of the harbour many listed and in good condition. side along the length of the North Shore, much to the detriment of the many quality The regeneration of the area, further restaurants opposite. There are, therefore, enhanced by the recent improvements concerns that the character and amenity of carried out on the south Shore, has the area will be adversely affected further reinforced the Inner Harbour basins as the by any increase in the number of fixed focus of this part of central Leith. barges in the Inner Harbour basins or other The Water of Leith is an important corridor inappropriate developments. for wildlife and supports a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The Inner Harbour basins are home to many water birds and the river otters are regular visitors to the basins.

43 Sources Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh. J. Gifford, C. McWilliam & D. Walker, Penguin, 1984.

Leith Lives-Memories at Work. Photographs and reminiscences collected and published by the Leith Oral History Project, 1985.

Leith Today. Ramsay Head Press, Edinburgh, 1974.

Old Leith at Leisure. J. S. Marshall, Edina Press, Edinburgh, 1976.

Old and New Statistical Accounts of Scotland: Edinburgh and Leith entries, 1791-99 & 1845.

The Life and Times of Leith. J. S. Marshall, John Donald, Edinburgh, 1985.

The Sculptured Stones of Leith. D. H. Robertson, Reid & Sons, Leith, 1851.

The Story of Leith. J. Russell, London, 1925.

The Water of Leith. Ed. S. Jamieson, The Water of Leith Project Group, 1984.

Traditions of Trinity and Leith. J. M. Wallace, John Donald, Edinburgh. 1985

44 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal

For further information please contact: [email protected]

0131 529 4238

45 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL THE MERCHISTON AND GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL WAS APPROVED BY THE PLANNING COMMITTEE 3 APRIL 2003

Some of the maps in the document have been reproduced from the Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the Controller of Her Majestyʼs Stationery Ofﬁ ce © Crown Copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown Copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. OS License No. LA09027L.

ISBN 1 85191 077 8 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ...... 2 Conservation Areas ...... 2 Character Appraisals ...... 2 Designation ...... 3 Location ...... 3 Boundaries ...... 3

MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA BOUNDARY ...... 4

MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA AERIAL VIEW ...... 6

HISTORICAL ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT ...... 8

ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER ...... 12 Urban Design Analysis ...... 12 Spatial Structure ...... 12 Townscape ...... 16 Architectural Character ...... 22 Activities And Uses ...... 29 Natural Heritage ...... 30 Opportunities For Enhancement ...... 35 Boundary Changes ...... 36 Role Of The Public ...... 36

GENERAL INFORMATION ...... 37 Statutory Policies ...... 37 Supplementary Guidelines ...... 38 Implications of Conservation Area Status ...... 39 References ...... 41 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

INTRODUCTION

Conservation Areas

Section 61 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997, describes conservation areas as “...areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. The Act makes provision for the designation of conservation areas as distinct from individual buildings, and planning authorities are required to determine which parts of their areas merit conservation area status.

There are currently 39 conservation areas in Edinburgh, including city centre areas, Victorian suburbs and former villages. Each conservation area has its own unique character and appearance.

Character Appraisals

The protection of an area does not end with conservation area designation; rather designation demonstrates a commitment to positive action for the safeguarding and enhancement of character and appearance. The planning authority and Scottish Ministers are obliged to protect conservation areas from development that would adversely affect their special character. It is, therefore, important that both the authorities and other groups who have an interest in conservation areas and residents are aware of those elements that must be preserved or enhanced.

A Character Appraisal is seen as the best method of deﬁ ning the key elements that contribute to the special historic and architectural character of an area.

It is intended that Character Appraisals will guide the local planning authority in making planning decisions and, where opportunities arise, preparing enhancement proposals. The character appraisal will be a material consideration when considering applications for development within the conservation area and applications for signiﬁ cant new developments should be accompanied by a contextual analysis that demonstrates how the proposals take account of the essential character of the area as identiﬁ ed in this document.

NPPG 18: Planning and the Historic Environment states that Conservation Area Character Appraisals should be prepared when reconsidering existing conservation area designations, promoting further designations or formulating enhancement schemes. The NPPG also speciﬁ es that Article 4 Direction Orders will not be conﬁ rmed unless a character appraisal is in place.

2 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Designation

The Merchiston and Greenhill Conservation Area was originally designated on 25 May 1986. The boundary was amended on the 29 March 1996 to include the late classical villa properties in Merchiston Park and to exclude the Astley Ainslie Hospital which was included in the Grange Conservation Area. Article 4 Directions were approved in 1996. The conservation area is classiﬁ ed by Scottish Ministers as ʻoutstandingʼ for grant purposes. Merchiston and Greenhill Conservation Area Location

The Merchiston and Greenhill Conservation Area is situated some 2.5 kms to the south west of the City centre.

Boundaries

The boundary of the Conservation Area follows the line of Newbattle Terrace westwards to Morningside Road, runs south of Morningside Place and George Watsonʼs to Colinton Road. It then turns northwards onto Polwarth Terrace, running to the rear of properties on Colinton Road, turning northwards again on Grayʼs Loan, then runs to the rear of properties on the west of Polwarth Terrace, turning north on Merchiston Avenue, east along Granville Terrace and south to the rear of properties on Merchiston Park. It then turns east to the rear of properties on Chamberlain Road, northwards on Forbes Road, eastwards on Bruntsﬁ eld Crescent and southwards on Whitehouse Loan, to the starting point on Newbattle Terrace.

3 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA BOUNDARY

4 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

5 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA AERIAL VIEW

6 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

7 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

HISTORICAL ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT

The Conservation Area consists of the former estates of Greenhill, East Morningside and Merchiston which were located on the historic Burgh Muir, an area of woods and marshland to the south of Edinburgh.

In 1586, the western Burgh Muir was feued and the Greenhill Estate was established. The Estate was in the ownership of the Livingstone family during the 17th century, and the name was possibly coined by John Livingston, who acquired the Estate in 1636. The name may be descriptive of the cultivated land contrasting with the adjoining heathland of Bruntsfi eld Links, and the -hill would have been the slight eminence (between Bruntsfi eld Gardens and Forbes Road) which became the site of the Livingstonʼs Greenhill House in the latter part of the 17th century. The house is depicted as three storeys and attic in traditional style on a stone plaque at the corner of Bruntsfi eld Gardens and Bruntsfi eld Place, and is described as a ʻgable ended and gabled manor houseʼ It was located in extensive grounds at the end of the present day Forbes Road. The house was demolished in 1884. The mausoleum, reputedly that of John Livingstone, the original owner of the Estate stands within a garden in Chamberlain Road. Adair’s map1735 Churchhill was established after Dr Thomas Chalmers built a house known as Kirkhill (now 1 Church Hill) in 1842. By 1849 a new road, formed by Bruntsfield Terrace and Greenhill Gardens, connected Bruntsfield Place with the east end of Church Hill. The east end of Chamberlain Road was formed by 1852 and Greenhill Park was developing by 1859. Forbes Road was opened through the policies circa 1850 of Greenhill House in 1864, and the House itself was pulled down in the course of forming Bruntsfi eld Gardens in 1884. The development of the eastern part of Greenhill began in 1871 with Bruntsfi eld Crescent and Greenhill Terrace, followed by Strathearn Place and, by 1875, Greenhill Place and St Margaretʼs Road.

8 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

References to Merchiston ﬁ rst appear in the mid-13th century. Alexander Napier, a successful merchant and provost of Edinburgh, acquired Merchiston in 1438, and the Napier family were responsible for the construction of Merchiston Tower in the 15th century. John Napier, the inventor of logarithms which made a major contribution to the advancement of science, was born at Merchiston in 1550. The Tower was used as the Merchiston Castle 1864 base for Merchiston Castle School for around 100 John Napier years from the 1830s. Following the Schools move to new premises at Colinton, the Tower was left unoccupied for most of the period up to its amalgamation into the then Napier Collegeʼs new building in 1964. From the 1850s, the Merchant Company sold feus in the land of Merchiston Castle. The development was supervised by Construction of Napier Technical David Rhind until 1864, when he was replaced by David MacGibbon. Merchiston College 1964 Place was begun by 1861, and Merchiston Avenue (1867) replaced an early loan connecting the Burghmuirhead with Fountainbridge. Burghmuirhead was the name applied to the triangle of ground between Colinton Road, Abbotsford Park and Morningside Road. It was feued from the Burgh Muir in 1586 and the name derived from its position at the summit of the Muir.

9 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

The Greenhill Estate was feued for building in 1840 and substantial villas were constructed in Greenhill Gardens (1852) and Abbotsford Park (1858). Following the demolition of Greenhill House in 1884, a number of quarries were opened within its grounds, the stone from which was used to construct many of the local tenements.

Whitehouse Loan and Terrace take their names from the ancient Whitehouse estate. The earliest mansion-house was built on the estate in the early 16th century, and in the 1830s the house, then dating from 1670, was rebuilt and extended to form St Margaretʼs Convent. The complex of buildings is now the Gillis College. Strathearn Place was originally closed off at its west end by a villa. This was demolished in 1900 when the horse-drawn tramline between Churchill and Marchmont was replaced by a cable car. The sharp corner at Strathearn Place and Greenhill Gardens required a manned set of points, and the small stone building in the garden of 17 Strathearn Place is the attendantʼs booth. Greenhill Cottage which was located at the east end of Bruntsfi eld Terrace formed the nucleus for the development of Bruntsfi eld Hospital in the late 19th century, which was converted to fl ats in 1989. Former tramline attendant’s booth

Bruntsﬁ eld Hopsital

10 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

1870s The spatial layout of the area was well established by the end of the late 19th Century, affording little opportunity for new development. Change during the 20th century has mainly been associated with the expansion of educational uses, the conversion of villas into ﬂ ats, and a degree of inﬁ ll development and development within garden grounds.

11 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER

Urban Design Analysis

Spatial Structure

The Conservation Area has a prominent location situated on a localised ridgeline between the edge of the city centre and the Braid Burn valley. From the edge of the Old Town, the topography undulates, descending to a low point along the edge of the Meadows. From here the land ascends through Bruntsﬁ eld Links to a high point close to Holy Corner in the heart of the Conservation Area, before descending again through Morningside down to the Braid Burn. Blackford Hill and the Craiglockhart Hills rise up to the south in the intervening area creating foreground landscape features against the more distant Braid Hills and Pentland Hills beyond.

View south from Church Hill junction

12 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

As a result of this elevated location there are fi ne views afforded many of the properties and streets in the area, to the Castle, Arthurʼs Seat, the Braid Hills, the Pentlands, and as distant as the Moorfoot and Lammermuir Hills. Before the mid 19th century building boom there were magnifi cent outlooks (still present from some upper fl oors and key vistas) in all directions from Church Hill; and a dramatic vista remains from the Church Hill junction southwards. The prominence of the Morningside Road / Abbotsford Park ridgeline also reinforces the visibility of landmark buildings within the area. Any new development should consider the effect on views to and from the area.

Holy Corner Two major roads deﬁ ne the structure of the core of the conservation area. Morningside Road connects Merchiston with Greenhill while Colinton Road, largely a tree lined avenue, runs between two distinct parts of Merchiston. Both roads provide the major entry points to the conservation area. They meet at Holy Corner forming one of the most striking and well-known townscape features in the city outside of the central area. The corner is part of the ʻhigh streetʼ running along Morningside Road extending towards Brunstﬁ eld. Here, four impressive churches, together with adjacent houses and tenements, present a cluster of landmarks providing focus, vistas and legibility to considerable parts of the surrounding area.

13 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Crossroads at Ettrick and Spylaw Roads

The most regular pattern of development occurs in the predominantly rectangular grid layout on the north side of Colinton Road between Merchiston Park and Gillsland Road. In contrast, that part of Merchiston to the south of Colinton Road, focused around Albert Terrace, is much more organic with ﬂ owing curves of roads and building frontages.

Albert Terrace There are some small lanes and culs-de-sac within the perimeter blocks which contribute towards a feeling of semi-rural seclusion, intimacy and offer contrast and variety. At the south western end of this section, near George Watsonʼs school, there is a change of layout with substantial villas and semi-detached houses fronting Colinton Road and two terraces at right angles to one another behind.

Greenhill Place Churchill has its own varied building types and layout character. Some, such as the terrace in Greenhill Place, are strongly urban while others, as in Pitsligo Road and Clinton Road, are very low density and unmistakably suburban with very large houses in generous landscape settings. A contrasting part with a semi-rural feel occurs to the southeast between the villas of Newbattle Terrace and Whitehouse Loan. It is formed by a combination of cottages, very secluded houses, gatehouses, high stone walls and prevailing dense mature vegetation. This same impression extends along Clinton Road. Clinton Road

Newbattle Terrace Clinton Road 14 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

There are very few large public open spaces in the area, although Bruntsﬁ eld Crescent has its superb setting facing the Links. Greenhill Gardens contains an important private open space with a strong public dimension. The Union Canal deﬁ nes the western edge of Merchiston while the private gardens in Merchiston Gardens present a secluded local amenity. The large lawn in front of Watsonʼs College adds to the imposing presence of the building and helps to separate its institutional function from the residential environment.

Bruntsﬁ eld Crescent

Greenhill Gardens George Watson’s College The spatial layout was well established by the early years of the 20th Century and there were few opportunities for large-scale new development. There have been a number of major developments of which the university buildings are the most substantial and prominent. Elsewhere the changes have been small scale and incremental, although there are places where the scale of redevelopment has not been in harmony with the surrounding pattern. However, the overall spatial structure of the area has remained substantially unchanged for a signiﬁ cant period of time. 15 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Townscape

Merchiston St Margaret’s Crescent Road

16 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

The character of the street layouts is dominated by Victorian villas. In some places these are interspersed with substantial 2, 2.5 and 3 storey terraces of outstanding quality built in fi ne grey sandstone with pitched slated roofs. Around Merchiston Crescent there are rapid and striking changes of density patterns from villas to terraces to tenements. In the Churchill area there are signifi cant contrasting changes of density and built form. In the villa areas buildings are complemented by a profusion of mature trees, hedges, extensive garden settings, stone boundary walls with gatepiers, metal railings, a variety of gates/fences Greenhill Gardens and spacious roads. The villas incorporate a considerable variety and blend of architectural styles, unifi ed by the use of local building materials. Unity is also emphasized by the placement of these properties within predominantly generous feus which gives the area a generally low density. The stone boundary walls, which typify boundary treatments, contribute to the visual and physical seclusion of the villa development, create shelter, defi ne the street layout, and provide a clear distinction between public and private spaces. Spylaw Road

17 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

A number of sites have been redeveloped with modern blocks of fl ats. This is most evident in the area west of Colinton Road, notably in Ettrick Road. In some instances their bulk and siting contrasts sharply with the more domestic, elegant setting and fi ne grain of houses prevailing in the area. New development which is not in harmony with the prevailing grain of the area results in erosion of the character of the conservation area. The provision of traditional generous separation distances between new mansion blocks of fl ats and original villas nearby is an important factor in retaining the character and appearance of the area. Large rear gardens are also an important feature of the urban structure. Ettrick Road Over the years, changes in the way the land and buildings have been used have mainly been the result of conversion of villas and terraced houses into fl ats. There has also been a limited amount of demolition, infi ll and backland development in garden grounds. In some cases this has been to the detriment of the green urban structure of the area. St Teresa Place The largest modern buildings are Napier University and George Watsonʼs College. The university is a dominating presence placed hard against Colinton Road, while the college is well set back, less assertive and well integrated into its surroundings. Other substantial Napier University structures are Gillis College in Whitehouse Loan, the Churchill Theatre, and the Holy Corner churches. The substantial more modern telephone exchange offices in Newbattle Terrace are well set back and partially screened by dense mature vegetation. Telephone exchange at Newbattle Terrace

Gillis College 18 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Mardale Crescent Traditional purpose-built fl atted development is restricted to a limited number of places, notably Morningside Road and Merchiston Crescent/ Mardale Crescent. The latter group, with its distinct geometrical layout, fi ne grain, curved facades, and striking grey stonework, presents an imposing tenemental form in the area. These buildings contrast in mass, scale and density with the surrounding predominant villa pattern. However, the contrast is not harsh. Human scale is provided by the clear vertical rhythm expressed in the elevational composition, the picturesque roof profi le, widths of bay windows with low sills, continuous individual and shared access doors fl anked by a regular pattern of grouped windows and small enclosed front gardens. In the middle of both these crescents semi-detached and terraced villas create a break of scale, and add variation to the grouping. The tenements also offer attractive end vistas to nearby streets providing a clear sense of direction. Their compactness, solidity and durability add to their valuable contribution to the townscape.

Within the predominantly villa areas there are also fi ne two and three storey Victorian and Edwardian terraces. Some, such as Albert Terrace, are quiet and secluded while others, such as Rochester Terrace and Bruntsfi eld Crescent are boldly urban. The longest terrace is in Greenhill Place. Its frontage is punctuated by a taller pavilion at its centre and by wider plots at both Greenhill Place ends. The terrace is an excellent example of closure of vista to St. Margaretʼs Road with the entrance to and the highest part of Gillis College containing the vista at the other end. The terrace faces a classic low density and heavily landscaped villa area. Although so different in character they sit in attractive harmony. The integration of the contrasting styles is assisted by high stone walls, the number of mature trees, and green open space which fl ow around the houses. Greenhill Place 19 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Merchiston Gardens The care shown in the design of several other terraces is noteworthy. Merchiston Gardens, for example, shows verticality and subtle variety in height and roof detailing in what seems to be, at ﬁ rst inspection, uniformity. The neighbouring terrace in Gillsland Road also has a pleasant scale, detailing and stepped skyline following the topography.

Morningside Road from Holy Corner to Church Hill Morningside Road, and its short continuation into Colinton Road, is the only part with a sizeable number of traditional shops, cafes and restaurants. They occupy the ground ﬂ oor of three and four storey tenements. This is the most vibrant and busy part of the conservation area in close proximity to the university, churches, theatre, cinema and supermarket.

20 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Essential Character: Spatial Structure And Townscape

• The importance of the topography in accentuating urban form and landmark buildings.

• Key views to landscape and townscape features throughout the city.

• Solidity, robustness, spaciousness, intimacy and impressive visual variety presented by the formal and informal layout of blocks of villas, terraces, and other groups of buildings.

• A dominant traditional layout and mature townscape of remarkably consistent and human scale.

• Distinctive integration of townscape and landscape.

• Sensitive changes of density and building types, and a consistent domestic grain scale and building mass.

• Generous settings which provide effective separation between changes in urban form, land uses and villa pattern are an important townscape element.

• Permeability and legibility derived from numerous long and short vistas to open spaces, panoramic views, landmarks and focal points.

• The churches at Holy Corner standing as point reference features and visible from many angles and distances.

21 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Architectural Character

The architectural character of the area is dominated by Victorian villas interspersed with substantial terraces of outstanding quality. The buildings are complemented by the profusion of mature trees, extensive garden settings, stone boundary walls and spacious roads. The villas are in a considerable variety of architectural styles, uniﬁ ed by the use of local building materials. Architectural unity is also emphasised by the location of properties within predominantly generous feus which gives the area a generally low density. The stone boundary walls, which typify boundary treatments, contribute to the visual and physical seclusion of the villa development, give deﬁ nition to the street layout and create a clear distinction between public and private spaces. Morningside Road Tenemental development is restricted to Morningside Road which separates the two main villa areas, and contains the notable grouping of churches at ʻHoly Cornerʼ, an important part of the areaʼs character. The tenement buildings contrast in mass, density and scale with the main area of villa development. A number of good quality timber shop fronts are included within the tenement group.

The ﬁ ne collection of spacious and stylish, mainly Church Hill Victorian villas incorporate buildings of distinguished architectural character. The diversity of styles range from restrained classical through the picturesque to the exuberance of Victorian eclecticism. Villa development also afforded the opportunity for architectural enrichment. Finials, trellises, towers, gazebos and campaniles are evident throughout the area and all contribute to the overall character. Despite this variety, a signiﬁ cant degree of unity is achieved by the predominant use of local grey sandstone for buildings and garden walls and natural slates for roofs. Ettrick Road

22 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Signiﬁ cant buildings in the area include:

• The succession of elaborate French-style villas by Edward Calvert around Spylaw Road.

• The baronial St Bennetʼs on Greenhill Gardens with its crowsteps and corner tower which dominates the ʻArcadian formalityʼ of Greenhill Gardens, and is adjoined by the distinctive copper domed Greek-looking archiepiscopal chapel. St Bennet’s • Lammerburn at 10 Napier Road is a two-storey villa designed in 1860 by Sir James Gowans. It is an example of Gowansʼ eccentric style with a roofscape of strongly projecting bracketed eaves and walls of variegated stonework. Rockville, Gowansʼ experimental house which stood opposite on Napier Road, was demolished in 1966 and replaced with ﬂ atted blocks. Only the boundary walls now survive.

• The original East Morningside House on Clinton Lammerburn Road, home of Susan Ferrier, the Georgian novelist, which is complete with an old stone lectern dovecote.

• The mid 17th century burial enclosure in Chamberlain Road is the only remaining relic of the Greenhill estate.

East Morningside House

‘John Livingstone’s’ tomb

23 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

• ʻHoly Cornerʼ is a crossroads, a well-known local landmark and an architectural focal point within the conservation area. The four churches which make up ʻHoly Cornerʼ are all category ʻBʼ Listed Buildings of Special Historical or Architectural Interest:

• Morningside United, originally Morningside Congregational Church, on the north corner of Chamberlain Road and Bruntsﬁ eld Place. Designed in an Early Christian Revival style in 1927 by James McLachlan, it replaced an earlier church built in 1863. It is a small elaborately composed Art Deco-Romanesque building ﬁ nished in a pinkish rough stone with a red pantiled roof, a series of arcades along the side of Chamberlain Road, and an attractive small-scale campanile or bell-tower.

Morningside United Church • North Morningside Church stands on the corner of south east corner of Chamberlain Road and Morningside Road. It dates from 1879. It is a large Romanesque aisled church with church hall and vestry, orientated to the south with a tower to the north west. It is fi nished in grey sandstone, squared and snecked rubble with ashlar dressings. It is no longer in ecclesiastical use, having been converted to the Eric Liddell Centre in the early 1990s. It is named for Eric Liddell, the Olympic runner and missionary whose life was featured in the fi lm, ʻChariots of Fireʼ. The centre is used for a variety of community care and education projects, and has a Eric Liddell Centre bookshop and coffee house. The building retains fi ne quality stained glass work.

24 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

• Christ Church dates from 1875 and was designed by Hippolyte Jean Blanc in a cruciform-plan French Gothic style with a tall elegant ashlar spire which dominates the north-west quadrant. It is ﬁ nished in cream sandstone, and squared and snecked rubble with ashlar dressings. There are low rubble boundary walls, with octagonal ashlar gatepiers and cast-iron railings with ﬂ eur-de-lis heads.

• The Baptist Church was designed by MacGibbon & Ross in 1872 for the Free Church and opened in 1894. The church, designed in a Gothic style, has a tall pinnacled south-east steeple. The church hall and offi ces are to the north west, with modern additions fl anking to the south and north. It is fi nished in cream sandstone, and squared and snecked stugged rubble with ashlar dressings. The low rubble wall to the front has octagonal coped gatepiers. The church was built in the old area of Burghmuirhead within the lands of Greenhill.

Christ Church

Baptist Church

25 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Other prominent non-ecclesiastical buildings at ʻHoly Cornerʼ include the curved corner tenement block with a mansarded French pavilion roof and ground ﬂ oor shops on the south west quadrant and the Classical banking house of the Bank of Scotland, designed by Peddie & Kinnear in 1873. Beyond, down Colinton Road and visible above the trees, is the modern seven-storey block of Napier University. Morningside Road/ Colinton Road Signiﬁ cant public buildings include:

• Napier College which dates from 1962 and is designed around Merchiston Castle, a 15th century L-plan tower house which is a Scheduled Ancient Monument. The eastern block is seven storeys of brickwork with other elevations in quartz-faced slabs. Bank at Holy Corner • George Watsonʼs College on the south side of Colinton Road.

• The Church Hill Theatre was originally built as the Morningside Free Church and dates from 1892. It Merchiston Castle has a substantial rectangular-plan in a Renaissance style ﬁ nished in red ashlar sandstone, and was converted for use as a theatre in 1962-5. Church Hill Theatre • The category ʻAʼ listed Gillis College complex of buildings on Whitehouse Loan including the neo-Norman chapel and the pink and cream sandstone rubble main Convent buildings with their high coped boundary walls and distinctive ashlar gatepiers with ball ﬁ nials to Whitehouse Loan. Memorial at Gillis College George Watson’s

26 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

• The red sandstone former Warrender Church on Whitehouse Loan which was converted to residential use in the 1980s.

• The telephone exchange building on the north-east quadrant of the junction of Pitsligo Road and Newbattle Terrace, which occupies the grounds of the now demolished Woodcroft House.

Former Warrender Church

Colinton Road continues with a mix of architectural styles including Napier House which is a rare example in Scotland of the American-infl uenced mansion fl ats, designed in the mid 1930s by the Arts & Crafts architect John Jerdan. It is a fi ve-storey block of horizontally-proportioned fl ats in yellow harling with strong red brick Telephone exchange at Newbattle Terrace string courses, plinth and parapet. Typical 1930ʼs details include the horizontally proportioned modern styling and windows.

Essential Character: Architectural Character

Napier House

27 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

• The architectural signiﬁ cance of individually designed villas and substantial terraces in the area.

• The variety of architectural styles that contribute to the overall character.

• High quality stone built architecture of restricted height, generous scale and ﬁ ne proportions enclosed by stone boundary walls and hedges which deﬁ ne the visual and physical seclusion of the villas.

• The signiﬁ cant degree of uniformity resulting from the predominant use of traditional building materials: of local sandstone for buildings and boundary walls and Scots slate for roofs.

Greenhill Terrace

Blantyre / Rochester Terrace Ettrick Road

28 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Activities And Uses

The area is principally residential with a range of shops and other commercial activities occupying ground ﬂ oor units on Morningside Road. A limited number of villas are used for non-residential uses such as schools and ofﬁ ces. The area also contains a theatre and three major educational institutions at Napier University, Gillis College and George Watsonʼs College. Morningside Road and Napier University sites Colinton Road act as through routes to the south and west.

The general atmosphere of most of the area is of high amenity and serenity. However, this is in contrast to the main through routes which are characteristically places of activity in terms of social and commercial activities, and trafﬁ c movement.

Essential Character: Activities & Uses Church Hill Place • The predominance of residential uses within the area.

• The proximity to the Morningside neighbourhood shopping centre.

• The contrast between activity on the through routes and general tranquillity in the main villa areas. Morningside Road from Holy Corner

• The concentration of educational establishments in the area.

29 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Natural Heritage

There are few public open spaces within the Conservation Area. Those that exist are formal in nature, bowling greens, gardens etc. Open spaces, although not public, are provided by the extensive private spaces created by the back gardens and grounds associated with the terraced gardens and villas in the area. The character of the Conservation Area is inﬂ uenced by this spatial arrangement. Where development has been added to the original layout of an area, such as Napier University, the open space has been lost. Examples of open spaces which are important to the character of the conservation area include:

• The ground on the corner of Thirlestane Road and Whitehouse Loan which is bounded by the original high stone boundary wall that formed the boundary to the Gillis College.

• The private garden grounds.

• The central green space on Greenhill Gardens.

• The bowling green/ tennis courts at the Thirlestane Road/Whitehouse Loan corner of Polwarth Terrace, which form an important green space on the approach to the town centre. It is also on the edge of the conservation area and forms an important node/conﬂ uence in the surrounding townscape.

• The private gardens on Merchiston Gardens, Greenhill Gardens forming the setting to the surrounding terrace and George Watsonʼs Upper primary School.

Polwarth Terrace 30 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Public open spaces infl uence the boundaries to the conservation area, Brunstfi eld Links to the north and the Union Canal to the west. These spaces are important to the overall setting of the conservation area. The scale of these open spaces and the diverse landscape structure are important for biodiversity within the urban area. Bruntsfi eld Crescent The area benefits from the early tree planting most of which is now mature. The development of the area in the 1800s included the introduction of trees and woodland as part of the landscaped grounds and setting for individual properties and their approaches. Signifi cant tree specimens are apparent along Strathearn Place, Clinton Road and Napier Road. These were once tree lined avenues or boundaries to estates in the area that were incorporated into development plots Clinton Road at a later stage. Since then the tree cover in the area has been developed substantially within individual plots and gardens giving an extensive landscape framework to the built development.

Many of the original tree specimens would have been native trees such as Beech and Oaks, which provide scale and stature to match the built forms. Since then the trees introduced have been more exotic and include Spylaw Road such as cedars, particularly the deodars, strawberry tree, Eucryphia and redwood.

31 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Within the majority of the conservation area the scale of the plots has allowed trees to become features of both the rear and front gardens. Most streets give the impression of being tree lined although there are no actual street trees, apart from in areas of open space. The trees help to integrate the built development throughout the area.

Where there are more extensive plots the tree cover has developed more as tree groups or woodland, creating Newbattle Terrace impressive settings to the properties on the site. Woodland and tree groups have a greater role in screening and providing an appropriate scale and structure to the built development associated with it.

Four Tree Preservation Orders (TPOs) have been applied in the Conservation Area. These provide further protection to trees on speciﬁ c sites subject to development pressure and were made in the 1970s.

• Area TPO 14 Merchiston Crescent

• Individual TPO Napier Road (The Limes)

• Group TPO 9 Merchiston Park

• Woodland TPO Cranley School (Spylaw Road and Colinton Road) 14 Merchistion Crescent Individual trees within gardens play a signiﬁ cant role in creating the character of the conservation area. Particular attention should be given to existing trees when considering changes to any development layout in the area. Opportunities for introducing further trees and replacing trees that are lost to age should be considered throughout the area. The long term management of trees in these situations is of paramount importance.

Napier Road (The Limes)

32 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

St Margaret’s Road The degree to which hedgerows, shrubs and trees form part of the individual plot boundaries varies throughout the area. Where tenemental or terraced properties exist the boundaries are low with few hedges allowing views into front gardens. Villas around St Margaretʼs Road in Greenhill and to a certain degree Napier Road in Merchiston also have low walls, but these are supplemented and softened with hedges and boundary shrubs and trees that have a suburban feel. These boundaries are punctuated with gateways and drives, so that as a pedestrian the scale is intimate with views through to the dwellings. Napier Road In some areas the boundary walls are higher and are not interspersed with green. The trees and large shrubs provide the structure behind the walls, and views to houses are less frequent and glimpsed.

Clinton Road

Albert Terrace

33 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

The Union Canal forms the western boundary of the Conservation Area. The entire canal is protected through the Local Plan as an Urban Wildlife Site. The canal is also identiﬁ ed as an area of enhancement for its amenity and recreational value.

Bruntsfield Links forms part of the northern boundary of the Conservation Area. The Links have been protected in the local plan as an Open Space of outstanding landscape quality, high amenity value and townscape signiﬁ cance.

Essential Character: Natural Heritage

• Few public open spaces. Those that exist are formal in nature.

• Private open space as the setting to buildings and as rear garden areas is essential in maintaining the character of the area.

• Tree and woodland cover that creates setting for built development is within private gardens. Important to retain and consider a programme for replacing trees.

• Importance of private open space in providing a green network and biodiversity within the area.

• Differences in boundary treatments to properties. The more open scale created where hedgerows/ shrubs and trees are integrated along the boundary.

• Importance of natural heritage features forming the boundary to the Conservation Area, the Union Canal and Bruntsﬁ eld Links.

34 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Opportunities For Enhancement

The scale, design and materials of new developments should reinforce and protect those features that give Merchiston and Greenhill its special character. Any development should take into consideration the spatial pattern, scale, proportions and design of traditional properties.

Any development, either within or outside the conservation area, should be restricted in height and scale in order to protect the key views of the conservation area. New development should protect the setting of individual buildings and the historic environment as a whole. Additional planting with trees of an appropriate species and scale would reinforce the tree cover and beneﬁ t the overall character of the conservation area.

Traditional materials should be used in repair and new build. Modern substitutes generally fail to respect the character of the area. The stone boundary walls and railings are a key feature within the conservation area, and they should be repaired and reinstated where appropriate. Original architectural features should be preserved wherever possible.

The effect of through traffic and parking on residential streets is a significant issue for local residents and the quality of the historic Greenhill Terrace environment.

There may be continuing pressures to develop or redevelop sites for housing at greater heights and density than those prevailing. One of the principal purposes of this appraisal is to promote the submission of proposals for new development which would harmonise sensitively with the key elements forming the established character of the conservation area, and actively to discourage those which would not.

35 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Boundary Changes

The Merchiston and Greenhill Conservation Area was originally designated on 25 May 1986, and amended in March 1996. No amendments to the current boundary are proposed.

Role Of The Public

It is essential that property owners accept their maintenance responsibilities. The emphasis should be on the repair rather than replacement of original features, as these contribute to the conservation areaʼs character as a whole. Alterations or additions should be sympathetic to the original style and of an appropriate scale.

36 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

GENERAL INFORMATION

Statutory Policies

The Central Edinburgh Local Plan (1997) includes the Merchiston and Greenhill areas of the city within a broad ʻHousing and Compatible Usesʼ policy allocation, in which the primary concern of the Plan is to safeguard existing residential character and amenities. Consequently, effect on residential amenity will be the determining consideration for all development proposals, including changes of use.

The Local Plan contains relevant policy advice on a range of matters. In relation to proposals within the conservation area, for example, development will only be allowed where all features that contribute to the special character and appearance of the area are retained. Development proposals in the conservation area are required to take into account the areaʼs special interest and how its character and appearance may be preserved or enhanced.

There are a signiﬁ cant number of listed buildings within the Merchiston Greenhill Conservation Area and the Local Plan includes policies which seek to ensure that proposals affecting listed buildings are considered for their effect on their character, including their setting. An important consideration is that alterations, extensions or changes of use should not diminish the architectural integrity of the building.

37 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Supplementary Guidelines

The Council also produces supplementary planning guidance on a range of development control issues. These are contained within the Development Quality Handbook.

38 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

Implications of Conservation Area Status

Designation as a conservation area has the following implications:

• Permitted development rights under the General Development Order are restricted. Planning permission is, therefore, required for stonecleaning, external painting, roof alterations and the formation of hard surfaces. The area of extensions to dwelling houses which may be erected without consent is also restricted to 16m2 and there are additional control over satellite dishes.

Class 1 enlargement, improvement or other alteration to a dwelling house

Class 3 provision or alteration of buildings or enclosures within the curtilage of a dwelling house

Class 6 installation, alteration or replacement of a satellite dish

Class 7 construction or alteration of gates, fences, walls or other means of enclosure

Class 30/33 local authority development

Class 38 water undertakings

Class 39 development by public gas supplier

Class 40 development by electricity statutory undertaker

Class 67 development by telecommunications code system operators

39 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

• Buildings which are not statutorily listed can normally be demolished without approval under the Planning Regulations. Within conservation areas the demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent.

• Alterations to windows are controlled in terms of the Councilʼs policy.

• Trees within conservation areas area covered by the Town and Country (Scotland) Act 1972, as amended by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997. The Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level, and concerns the lopping of trees as much as removal. The planning authority must be given six weeks notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice render the person liable to the same penalties as for contravention of a TPO.

• Grants may be available towards the repair or restoration of historic building The Council runs a conservation grant scheme. Such grants are normally dependent on comprehensive repair and restoration of original features and priority is given to tenemental housing and prominent buildings.

40 MERCHISTON & GREENHILL CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL

References

Smith, John. Greenhill Gardens, Bruntsﬁ eld Links, Edinburgh, with some notes on some of its early residents (1929, handwritten notebook in Edinburgh Room of Edinburgh Central Library).

Smith, Charles. Historic South Edinburgh.

Harris, Stuart. Street Names of Edinburgh.

J. Gifford, C. McWilliam & D. Walker. Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh., Penguin, 1984.

41 This document is available on request in Braille, tape, large print various computer formats and community languages. Please contact ITS on 0131 242 8181 and quote ref. 03756.

For additional English copies please contact the enquiry ofﬁ ce on 0131 529 3900.

Andrew M Holmes Director of City Development The City of Edinburgh Council Waverley Court 4 East Market Street Edinburgh EH8 8BG

Produced by the City Development Department : Planning & Strategy

The South Side Conservation Area Character Appraisal was approved by the Planning Committee on 8 August 2002

Some of the maps in the document have been reproduced from the Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office

© Crown Copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown Copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. OS License No. LA09027L. ISBN 1 85191 053 0 South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

Contents

Contents ...... 3

Introduction ...... 4 Conservation Areas ...... 4 Character Appraisal ...... 4 South Side Conservation Area ...... 5 Conservation Area Boundary ...... 6

Historical Origins And Development ...... 8

Analysis And Essential Character ...... 12 Site Context and Views ...... 12 Focal Points and Landmarks ...... 14 Routes ...... 15 Natural Heritage ...... 16 Natural Heritage Designations ...... 17 Site of Special Scientific Interest ...... 18 Green Belt ...... 18 Neighbourhood Nature Area ...... 18 Trees ...... 19 Expansion Areas ...... 20 First Expansion Area ...... 22 Second Expansion Area - George Square (Town and Gown) ...... 28 Third Expansion Area ...... 34 Fourth Expansion Area ...... 39

Opportunities For Enhancement ...... 44 Development Opportunity Sites ...... 44 Squares and Open Spaces ...... 45 Street Enhancements ...... 46 Shop Front Improvements ...... 46 Wheelie Bins ...... 46 Role of the Public ...... 46

General Information ...... 47 Statutory Policies ...... 47 Supplementary Guidelines ...... 47 Implications Of Conservation Area Status ...... 48

References ...... 50 South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

Introduction

Conservation Areas Section 61 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997, describes conservation areas as “... areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. The Act makes provision for the designation of conservation areas as distinct from individual buildings, and planning authorities are required to determine which parts of their areas merit conservation area status.

There are currently 38 conservation areas in Edinburgh, including city centre areas, Victorian suburbs and former villages. Each conservation area has its own unique character and appearance.

Character Appraisal The protection of an area does not end with conservation area designation; rather designation demonstrates a commitment to positive action for the safeguarding and enhancement of character and appearance. The planning authority and the Scottish Executive are obliged to protect conservation areas from development that would adversely affect their special character. It is, therefore, important that both the authorities and other groups who have an interest in conservation areas, and residents are aware of those elements that must be preserved or enhanced.

A Character Appraisal is seen as the best method of defining the key elements that contribute to the special historic and architectural character of an area.

It is intended that Character Appraisals will guide the local planning authority in making planning decisions and, where opportunities arise, preparing enhancement proposals. The Character Appraisal will be a material consideration when considering applications for development within the conservation area and applications for significant new developments should be accompanied by a contextual analysis that demonstrates how the proposals take account of the essential character of the area as identified in this document.

NPPG 18: Planning and the Historic Environment states that Conservation Area Character Appraisals should be prepared when reconsidering existing conservation area designations, promoting further designations or formulating enhancement schemes. The NPPG also specifies that Article 4 Direction Orders will not be confirmed unless a character appraisal is in place.

South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

South Side Conservation Area The South Side lies immediately adjacent to the Old Town on the south east side of the city.

The South Side Conservation Area was originally designated in 1976 and extended in 1986. A further amendment was approved in 1996.

The Conservation area falls within Wards 33, 48 and 50

South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

Conservation Area Boundary The South Side Conservation Area lies immediately to the south of the line of the defensive walls to the city formed by the Flodden Wall built between 1514 - 1560 and extended by the Telfer Wall built between 1628 - 1636. A clear space was left on the inside of the wall of 12 ft and on the outside of 24ft. This external space was used later for roads, forming the street pattern of today. Consequently, the northern boundary of the conservation area formed by Drummond Street, South College Street, Bristo Port, Bristo Place and Teviot Place follows the line of the defensive walls.

Gates, or ports, at Potterow, Bristo Port and latterly Forrest Road punctuated these walls. These gates were served by two roads approaching from the south, one following the line of Dalkeith Road/Pleasance and the other following the line of Causewayside/Buccleuch Street.

The South Side shares a common boundary to the North with the Old Town Conservation Area. However, at this point the two conservation areas are overlaid by the World Heritage Site, whose boundary lies further south and bites into the South Side and Marchmont and Meadows conservation areas.

The Western boundary is formed by Middle Meadow Walk leading directly onto the Meadows whose northern edge continues the boundary of the conservation area onto Buccleuch Street where the boundary swings southwards following Sciennes. The boundary then follows Braid Place eastwards onto Causewayside swinging south till it meets Salisbury Place and runs along the back of Salisbury Road to meet Dalkeith Road. At this point the boundary moves generally northwards to rejoin Drummond Street taking irregular extensions eastwards to take in Parkside Street, St Leonard’s Bank, the Deaconess Hospital and University buildings off the Pleasance.

The Edinburgh World Heritage Site boundary overlaps the South Side Conservation Area. Starting in the middle of Middle Meadow Walk, it runs eastward to include the northern part of George Square before running up the west side of Bristo Street car park and then turns east into Nicolson Square. The boundary then crosses Nicolson Street to run down Hill Place, turns north up Richmond Place and then east down Adam Street to meet the Pleasance. Everything to the North of this boundary is contained within the World Heritage Site.

South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

It should be noted that the Edinburgh World Heritage Trust plays a significant part within the World Heritage Site. Currently the Trust are preparing a management plan, an essential part of which will be the inclusion of the conservation area character assessments that cover the World Heritage Site.

South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

Historical Origins And Development

Up to 1700 the area lying to the south of Edinburgh, beyond the City walls, was characterised by scattered houses, open fields and some ribbon development. This stretched along the southern approach roads of Potter Row, Buccleuch Street, Pleasance and also Roxburgh Place and Richmond Place, which led to a tower in the Flodden wall.

The Act of Union of 1707 and the suppression of the Jacobite insurgencies in ’15 and ’45 provided a settled political and social climate that allowed Edinburgh to contemplate expansion beyond the City walls. The constraints of the nor’ loch meant that the initial expansion of the City focused towards the south outside the Telfer and Flodden walls.

Very little remains of the period prior to 1700, but there are a number of former “country” houses dating from the early 1700’s that still exist embedded in the urban fabric of the South Side. Hermits and Termits at 64 St Leonard’s Street dating from 1734 has provided a home for two generations of artists, a railway office for an adjacent coal yard and is now fully restored as a residence. Chapel House (1750) and Pear Tree House (1747) the former now used by the Mosque and the latter being a pub and restaurant. Sciennes Hill House (built in phases from 1741) where Walter Scott as a boy met Robert Burns, is now part of a tenement. 1759 As a result of the peace and prosperity being experienced at this time several small scattered developments were under taken as an extension to the Old Town and located within the boundaries of the town walls. These were Adam, Argyll, and Brown Squares (circa 1740s). Although there was no overall planning philosophy these schemes were considered as planned developments at the time. The landowners in the South Side, particularly from Causewayside northwards, were numerous and feuing their policies in an unrelated George Square fashion.

George Square laid out in 1766, was the most ambitious scheme of unified architecture attempted in Edinburgh at that time. However, this scheme was overtaken by the large scale masterplanning exercise by James Craig for the First New Town, which began work in 1767.

South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

One of the principal spurs to expansion came about with the construction of North Bridge in 1772 followed by the construction of South Bridge in 1788 which linked the New Town, Old Town and South Side directly for the first time. The demolition of Lady Nicolson’s House in 1794 allowed Nicolson Street to be extended to Clerk Street and by 1800 building had reached St Patrick Square and Montague and Rankeillor Streets had been laid out.

Up to 1800 the housing that was built was of vernacular style rubble rather than ashlar, although there were some notable exceptions. By 1830 terraces and villas were being erected as far south as West Mayfield. The housing market was saturated by this time and this allied to a declaration of bankruptcy by the City in 1833 resulted in no new building being erected in the South Side for twenty years. 1852

The final expansion of new building in the South Side took place from the 1850s onwards with Hope Park Terrace, Lutton Place and Bernard Terrace all being completed by the 1870s. From the end of the century until the mid 1920s little new building activity occurred. However, in the northern and central sections of the conservation area existing tenements were subdivided twice and sometimes three times without regard to amenity.

A scheme for rehousing the population living in the area between the Pleasance and Richmond Place was prepared by the City Architect’s Department with new building commencing in 1931 which was completed in 1938. There were other, smaller, redevelopments in East Crosscauseway, Buccleuch Street, Simon Square, Gifford Park and St Patrick Square were also carried out at the same time all adding up to a considerable amount of housing redevelopment.

City Architect’s Department rehousing

South Side C o n s e r v a t i o n A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l

In the late 1920s, the Odeon Cinema and Empire Theatre were constructed, the latter now known as the Festival Theatre having been refurbished in the 1990s. In the 1920s the Corporation commissioned Sir Frank Mears to prepare a plan for Central Edinburgh. His proposals of 1931 were shelved with the outbreak of war in 1939. The Empire Theatre In the thirty years following the Second World War, there was considerable Planning activity in the South Side. The first major plan relating to the South Side was the Abercromby Civic Survey and Plan of 1949. The proposals included a major road development through the area and redevelopment around George Square to cater for the expansion of the University. The survey also concluded that the majority of housing suffered from multiple deficiencies and should be redeveloped. In 1962 the Corporation agreed to process the University/Nicolson Street Comprehensive Development Area (CDA) and approved the proposed CDA in 1968.

Edinburgh University, operating on the basis of these plans, redeveloped most of George Square during the 1960s, leaving only the west side of the square intact. In this redevelopment two tower blocks were built which now dominate the skyline.

In 1966, the Quinquennial Review of the 1957 Development Plan recommended the South Side as an action area for comprehensive development. In 1968, The Secretary of State instructed that the proposed Action Area be deleted from the statutory map and that the 1957 zonings be restored. The review was not formally approved until 1974. The considerable delay added to the uncertainty over the future of the South Side.

In 1973, it was decided that renewal work in the South Side should proceed on the basis of a Local Plan rather than a CDA plan. In 1975, the South Side was declared an Outstanding Conservation Area with conservation and rehabilitation being the key factors in the Local Plan.

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This change in Planning policy, allied to the availability of private sector grants and the promotion of Housing Association activity, produced a burst of residential rehabilitation activity throughout the South Side. This started in the mid 1970s and continued through the 80s and had the effect of restoring confidence in the South Side. The single biggest scheme was the partial restoration and rebuilding of a full street block on Nicolson Street between East Crosscauseway and West Richmond Street, which included ground floor shops and a supermarket. Edinvar Housing Association also made significant inroads into refurbishing blocks on Buccleuch Street, Drummond Street and Drummond Place.

During the same period, the City Council and Housing Associations began extensive new build housing schemes along the Pleasance and St Leonard’s Street where clearance had taken place for the now deleted Bridges Relief Road.

The University created a new square in front of McEwan Hall, while the Royal College of Surgeons refurbished Hill Square. The former Newington and St Leonard’s Church was refurbished as a concert hall (Queens Hall) in the mid 70s and the City Council refurbished the former Empire Theatre in the 1990s (Festival Theatre).

Hill Square

Festival Theatre By the late 1980s and 90s private housing developers started to erect new housing developments on the remaining gap sites, significantly reducing them in number.

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Analysis And Essential Character

The South Side conservation area is a large diverse area with a rich mixture of historical periods and stages of development. However, there are certain features which relate to the conservation area as a whole and these are dealt with under this heading. Later, for the purposes of analysing Spatial Structure and Townscape, the conservation area has been divided into four sub areas.

Site Context and Views The South Side Conservation Area lies on a gentle south facing slope falling towards Gilmerton and Dalkeith. It is bounded by the line of the former town walls to the north and constrained by the major open spaces of the Meadows to the west and Holyrood Park to the east. The buildings of the South Side are built upon a strip of land between these features. The southern boundary abuts the Blacket Conservation Area. view south over West Crosscauseway and beyond The topography of the area means that there are some fine views northwards towards the Castle and the Old Town and eastwards towards Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags. This makes the roofline of the conservation area particularly sensitive to change. Generally the area is characterised by the slender towers of churches and the cupolas and domes of institutional buildings. However, there are some modern blocks from the 1960s, around George Square, that break the skyline.

view over Nicolson Square

view east

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The mixed residential, commercial buildings of the South Side consist mostly of 4-6 storeys constructed of stone with pitched, slated roofs. A characteristic of the South Side is the use of wallhead gables in the early Georgian vernacular tenements. The uniformity of building heights provides a background against which important features of the City stand out. Lying between the Castle/Old Town Ridge and Arthur’s Seat/Salisbury Crags the area fulfils a valuable role by not upstaging them in the overall composition of the City. Victorian tenements It is important that where there are development opportunities lying adjacent to the conservation area boundary that views out of the conservation area are not disrupted and that the style of building reflects the scale, massing and materials of the conservation area. This is particularly true along the eastern edge of the conservation area along St Leonard’s and the northern area of the conservation area where it overlaps with the modern development on edge of boundary World Heritage Site boundary.

• The central position and historic nature of the South Side make the area extremely sensitive to the effects of high buildings and the overall height of the area should not be broken.

• The proximity of Arthur’s Seat, Salisbury Crags and the Old Town Ridge allow dramatic views and glimpses from a large number of points throughout the conservation area and the World Heritage Site. These views should be retained.

• The city skyline of the South Side and its landmarks are particularly distinctive and contribute to the prominence of the World Heritage Site whose boundary overlaps the South Side to the north.

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Focal Points and Landmarks There are a considerable number of prominent buildings that act as focal points throughout the area. These are principally churches and institutional buildings. They tend to occur along two routes, namely Nicolson/Clerk Street and Buccleuch Street/Causewayside.

Beginning with Nicolson Street, at the northern boundary of the conservation area, the most prominent building at this point is the Old College on South Bridge initially designed and started by Robert Adam in 1789. Completed by W H Playfair in 1838 and its distinctive dome being added by Rowan Anderson in 1886. Although the building lies just outside the conservation area boundary its presence on Nicolson Street is particularly noticeable. Looking northwards, the skyline is dominated by the Tron Kirk and the street is terminated by the dome of General Register House on Princes Street. McEwan Hall From Nicolson Square the dome of McEwan Hall is glimpsed along with the minaret of the mosque on Potterrow and the spire of Buccleuch and Greyfriars church. The views along West Richmond Street are dominated by the University Tower Blocks of Hume and Appleton Towers.

To the south of St Patrick Square the skyline is punctuated by the spires of the Queen’s Hall on Clerk Street, St Peters church on Lutton Place and St Margaret and St Leonard’s church on Dalkeith Road.

• With the exception of the two modern towers on George Square the area is punctuated by spires, domes and a minaret reinforcing the character of the area.

St Margaret and St Leonard’s

St Peters

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Routes Three traffic routes penetrate the area. The principal route, comprising South Clerk Street/Clerk Street and Nicolson Street, runs through the centre of the area having been constructed in Georgian times to make use of North and South Bridge to link directly to the City Centre and the New Town. This street acts as a linear “High Street”, particular from South Clerk Street into the city centre.

The other routes were originally the medieval routes to Edinburgh. The easterly route comprising Dalkeith Road/St Leonard’s Street and the Pleasance running down to the Cowgate. The second medieval route comprises Causewayside/ Buccleuch Street and Potter Row linking with Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge. East and West Crosscauseway connected these routes, in medieval times.

Clerk St / S CLerk St

• South Clerk Street/Nicolson Street is the principal route through the area and acts as the main shopping street or “High Street” for the South Side.

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view west over George Square to Bruntsfield Natural Heritage There are two major areas of open space to the east and west respectively of the conservation area as well as a number of smaller open spaces and squares within the built up area. Some of these have been designed as an integral part of the urban fabric. On the west side of the conservation area is the Meadows, a major parkland area of open space serving a large part of the population of south Edinburgh. It is a managed open space with recreational facilities including cycleways, tree-lined paths, children’s’ play areas, cricket squares, tennis courts, pitch and put and bowling greens. For the most part it is characterised by large expanses of mown grass, avenues of mature broad-leaved trees with secondary lines of ornamental flowering cherries. The Marchmont tenemental area is visible through the trees on its south side, with Bruntsfield to the west.

from the Meadows to west boundary of Conservation Area

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Arthur’s Seat To the east of the built up area lies the more open and expansive natural heritage landscape of Holyrood Park with Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags being prominent features. The urban edge, which generally coincides with the edge of the conservation area, abruptly meets the rougher terrain; tree planted edge and natural vegetation of the steep slopes forming the boundary of the Royal Park.

Scattered throughout the conservation area there are a number of formal and informal open spaces and squares. A large number have the potential to be improved. This is particularly true in the northern part of the conservation area. Although many are small they make a contribution to residential amenity which is disproportionate to their size. Generally each space is visually linked with at least one other providing significant legibility and an enhanced perception of the amount of open space.

Preston Street Burial Ground Nicolson Square Natural Heritage Designations There are no designations within the boundaries of the conservation area; however, there are several just outside which have an impact on it.

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Holyrood Park Site of Special Scientific Interest Holyrood Park (Arthur’s Seat Volcano) is an SSSI, identified by Scottish Natural Heritage “as requiring special protection because of its flora, fauna or geological or physiological features.” It has important geological features and complex geology plus a richness of natural plant communities, this area of unimproved grassland is one of the largest and most diverse habitats in the City. There are also significant freshwater aquatic plant communities. Designation is under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981

Green Belt Holyrood Park is designated as Green Belt, indicating that its rural character and amenities are to be protected.

Neighbourhood Nature Area “Briery Baulks” on Brown Street was designated as a NNA in 1998. This designation stems from the Nature Conservation Strategy to encourage local residents to take responsibility for enhancing an area of local greenspace by undertaking management to benefit both wildlife and access to wildlife. Briery Baulks

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Trees Significant trees of stature exist mainly in the Meadows, Hill Square, East Preston Street Burial Ground and the grounds of St Peter’s Church. Other open spaces have mature but small species trees; and while these have a limited attraction in the immediate vicinity, they do not contribute a great deal to the overall sustainable landscape structure of the conservation area. The trees in Holyrood Park have not reached maturity but are a valuable future resource. There is limited street tree planting in streets except for Lutton Place which is sufficiently wide to accommodate tree planting along pavements on each side and along some parts of the Pleasance where street trees have been planted as part of new developments. There are no Tree Preservation Orders within the Conservation Area.

Hill Square

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Expansion Areas The conservation area covers a large area which includes various historical periods and stages of development to form a variety of character areas and spatial patterns. For this appraisal the conservation area is split into four sub areas representing distinctive patterns of growth and development.

Expansion Areas & Spatial Structure

First expansion area

Second expansion area (George Sq.)

Third expansion area

Fourth expansion area

block structure

formal open space

informal open space

successful integration

development opportunities

activity

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• The small open spaces and squares scattered throughout the area generally link together visually and have significance beyond their size.

Townscape

landmarks

important distant views

important enclosed spaces

principal routes

intrusive landmarks

pre 1750s buildings

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First Expansion Area

Spatial Structure The first area lies to the north of East and West Crosscauseway bounded by Potterow up to South College Street where the boundary follows the old town walls and meets up with the Pleasance. The University Physical Education block is included at this point. The boundary then continues down the Pleasance, deviating to include the Deaconess Hospital, linking with East Crosscauseway.

This area is characterised by informal broken blocks making them very permeable and vernacular in character. Some of the blocks have been infilled with larger buildings such as the Festival Theatre, the former Co-op, and Tesco’s on Nicolson Street. Similarly the block containing Surgeons Hall has been infilled with University buildings. Surgeons Hall Gifford Park Over time, significant redevelopment has taken place, varying from the City Architect’s schemes of the 1930s to address overcrowding including a full street block at Richmond Place/ Pleasance and smaller schemes at East Crosscauseway and Gifford Park. The decline that the area suffered from the end of the second World War up to the mid 1970s produced further redevelopment in the 1980s and 1990s as well as a considerable amount of rehabilitation.

New residential development has occurred on Drummond Street/ The Pleasance, other pockets of redevelopment have occurred on West Richmond Street, Davie Street and Chapel Street. The biggest combined redevelopment/ rehabilitation scheme was that on the east side of Nicolson Street, between West Richmond Street and East Crosscauseway. All of these schemes have followed the grain and height of existing block sizes.

The roads lying between Nicolson Street and the Pleasance tend to remain as setted roads. Drummond Street, which is closed at the Pleasance, has a utilitarian barrier located east of Richmond Street, which mars the geometry of the road layout.

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Nicolson Square With the expansion of the City into the South Side a number of small planned Georgian schemes were developed. Nicolson Square is the earliest, having a grassed area in the centre, with vernacular Georgian tenements on the north side with projecting shop fronts. The south side of the square is marred by the presence of a gap site on the corner of the square and Nicolson Street created by a fire in the early 1990s.

A second “planned” scheme occurs at Hill Square and Hill Place with the concrete corner of the Lister Institute intruding into the square and the former St Michael’s Episcopal Church, now converted to a lecture Hall. The square was the subject of a regeneration scheme promoted by the Royal College of Surgeons.

Informal public spaces occur behind Nicolson Square to the north adjacent to the Festival theatre. The Local Authority housing block on Richmond Street internally contains a children’s play area and garden ground. The small area to the front of this block on the Pleasance has been paved over and now contains wheelie bins.

The meeting of roads at West Crosscauseway and Buccleuch Street is filled with a pedestrian island and could provide a more formal planned open space. Hill Square • Planned Georgian formal development overlays the medieval street pattern.

• Small informal street blocks with a high degree of permeability characterise the area creating theatrical elements.

• Formal and informal open spaces and squares West Crosscauseway / create variety and interest and help to break up Buccleuch Street the hard urban feeling of the area.

• Many of the side streets retain their setts.

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Nicolson Street Townscape The main route through the area is Nicolson Street with side roads on either side linking through to Potterow and the Pleasance and creating an informal grid structure.

The main east - west routes are West Richmond Street and the Crosscauseways. Between Nicolson Street and the Pleasance there are a number of streets running from north to south creating smaller blocks and reflecting the fact that there were a large number of individual landowners when the ground was originally feued. Consequently block sizes and plot sizes tend to be smaller than elsewhere in the conservation area giving a lively variety of building types and frontages.

Building lines are generally to the heel of the pavement, the exceptions being Georgian residential streets and squares, such as Drummond Street and Hill Square. New residential developments on the Pleasance tend to have small gardens to the front to gain privacy. Where new development has occurred on Nicolson Street from East and Potterrow this has been mixed residential and shopping which to West has followed the building line. Crosscauseway Generally heights of buildings vary through the area being between three and six storeys all buildings built before the second world war are of stone construction. New post war development respects the heights and overall massing of the area.

Nicolson Street is the main linear shopping street running through the area supplemented by a wide range of restaurants and cafes on Chapel Street and Potterrow. The streets linking these two also contain a wide range of shops, particularly West Nicolson Street and Nicolson Square. Other shops occur on Potterrow the returns of the streets linking Nicolson Street with the Pleasance.

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In terms of new development opportunities there are two sites.

• The south east corner of Nicolson Square and Nicolson Street. This is a gap site created by a fire approximately ten years ago. The site is currently in multiple ownership and surrounded by unsightly hoardings.

• The strip of ground running along the east side of Potterrow behind the Festival Theatre is cleared and the site presents a long row of hoardings to the street.

• Two gap sites surrounded by hoardings detract from their surroundings and provide development opportunities that could significantly enhance the area

• New developments reflect the massing and scale of the area and use render and blockwork to keep in character. On the main shopping streets mixed uses have been included. mixed uses on main streets • Smaller block and plot sizes provide a lively variety of building types and frontages.

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Architectural Character This area is characterised by a rich, diverse grouping of architectural styles and buildings using primarily stone and pitched, slated roofs. The area is generally harmonious in scale. It is proposed to treat architectural character broadly under the following architectural styles.

Traditional Dating from the 1730s onwards these buildings were vernacular in style and formed a complete and continuous façade, presenting wallhead gables to the front and newel or turret staircases to the rear. Generally these buildings are of rubble construction, harled or rendered. Examples of this style are found on West Nicolson Street and Nicolson Street.

Two former mansion houses are found in this area each of which have strong historic associations. Peartree House

• Chapel House, a category B listed building, is located behind the mosque on Chapel Street. This is a mid eighteenth century house which was once the home of Andrew Melrose, founder of the tea and coffee merchants. On his death the house became the Royal Maternity and Lying in Hospital where James Simpson first made use of chloroform.

• Peartree House, also category B listed and located on West Nicolson Street near to Chapel House. This house is of the same period and was owned by Adam Fergusson. The house has seen many famous people pass through its doors including James Boswell and Robert Burns. It is reputed that while the house was in the ownership of the brewer Andrew Usher whiskey was first commercially blended here.

Georgian Georgian classical developments made their appearance within the vernacular context of the South Side. This period dates from the 1760s when “planned” developments began to be advanced in the South Side. There is a dignified quality to the architecture of this period complemented by detailed finishes, floorscape and railings. These buildings tend to be five to six storeys in height and finished in ashlar stonework to the front. The transition between vernacular and classical Georgian architecture is evidenced on the north side of West Nicolson Street.

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Housing developments at Drummond Street, Roxburgh Street and South College Street follow the stricter principles of classical architecture and are generally six storeys in height.

Modern Small inter war housing developments at Richmond Place, Gifford Park and elsewhere, comprising infill and redevelopment were successfully integrated into the fabric of the area by using traditional materials such as stone and slate. These buildings reflect the scale of the area. inter war housing at Gifford Park Post war developments include the School of Mining in Roxburgh Place, which is out of scale and character with its surroundings. Some more recent mixed use and residential developments while keeping in scale have used brick as a finishing material which looks out of place. This is particularly true along the Pleasance. Elsewhere block and render have been used which is more in keeping with Scottish tradition. While the scale and massing of these schemes is appropriate, the way some of them address the street with a single entrance to all flats misses the opportunity of providing entrances to ground floor flats, thus increasing vitality to the street frontage.

• Despite the variety of architectural styles and periods which are evidenced this area remains generally harmonious in scale, massing and materials.

• The use of brickwork is not in keeping and should be avoided.

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Second Expansion Area - George Square (Town and Gown)

Spatial Structure Buccleuch Street, Chapel Street and Potterrow turning onto Lothian Street and Teviot Row along its northern edge form the boundary to this area. The boundary then follows Middle Meadow walk linking with the northern edge of the Meadows view north to connect back to Buccleuch Street. from Meadows

This area is dominated by the University, which first moved into George Square in 1914. The principal through route is Buccleuch Street/Potterrow forming the eastern boundary, the routes to the west off this principal route lead directly into the campus and provide no through routes for vehicles. However, the area is extremely permeable for pedestrians.

Bristo Square, which was built in 1983, provides an appropriate setting to the McEwan Hall, but with an absence of development to the east, due to the large car park on Crichton Street, the overall effectiveness is lost. In developing the square Potterrow has been ramped through a tight curve to marry with Lothian Street along the northern boundary. This has resulted in the creation of a pedestrian underpass linking the University area to South College Street that disrupts the original street pattern. McEwan Hall & students union

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George Square In the 1960s the University embarked on a major redevelopment programme around George Square, which is the largest planned open space in the South Side. This involved the redevelopment of the south side of the square and half of the north and east sides. This inward looking Georgian square of small scale residential character has been opened up by modern large scale institutional buildings which contrast in scale and style leaving the Georgian remnants isolated. The tower blocks at mews the south east and north east corners detract from buildings the skyline of the conservation area. behind George Square The Georgian tenements of Buccleuch Street and their mews buildings behind occupy the area to the south of George Square. These in turn lead into small informal squares.

• While there is no vehicular permeability through this area it is very permeable for pedestrians.

• A 1960’s international style of development has been overlaid on the planned residential formality of George Square.

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McEwan Hall Townscape The McEwan Hall and Medical School are distinctive landmarks to the north of George square. However, the internal courtyard to the medical school accommodates cars rather than pedestrians.

George Square itself has suffered considerable disruption to its original form with the major buildings erected by the University. The original plot sizes in George Square have been completely ignored and overlaid by twentieth century international style, tower and podium buildings faced in a variety of materials ranging from slate and stone to concrete and mosaic.

To the south of George Square the original building forms and types occur with the Georgian terraces on Buccleuch Place consisting of main door and common stair tenement blocks of four storeys, basement and attic. The setted street is one of the grandest in the South Side being 18m wide. The garden areas to the southern block are unfortunately given over largely to car parking. The lane to the rear is lined with vacant mews. Buccleuch Place Buccleuch Street The Buildings on Buccleuch Street generally follow a building line which lies to the heel of the pavement. The exception to this is the return Georgian tenement running north from Buccleuch Place. Otherwise the buildings are of varying heights between two and five storeys. Boroughloch Square

The charming Hope Park Square fronting onto the Meadows, and the triangular Boroughloch Square, which is completely dominated by parking, provide a visual urban edge to the Meadows.

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The largest development opportunity in the South Side occurs with the Crichton Street car park, which has been used for parking for thirty years.

• Crichton Street car park provides an opportunity to unify the spatial structure of this area by creating an innovative link building

• With the exception of the two university towers the overall height of the new buildings is in keeping

• Parking is squeezed into every available space and dominates squares and public buildings

• Despite the considerable modern redevelopment that has occurred in George Square, the scale of the gardens, mature landscaping, original railings and street finishes still give the square a coherence.

George Square

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Architectural Character Despite the major redevelopments that have taken place in George Square there is still a wealth of architectural styles and buildings in this area, the majority using stone and pitched, slated roofs.

Traditional George Square Unusually the traditional, vernacular buildings occur to the south in this area, reflecting the fact that Buccleuch Street was one of the main mediaeval routes into the city. Consequently the buildings forming the Buccleuch Street side of Boroughloch Square evidence wallhead gables to the street and stair turrets to the rear. A new build block in this frontage adopts the same style although the windows are modern.

Georgian Classical Georgian buildings, originally residential, occur on George Square, Buccleuch Place and Buccleuch Street, which were all laid out by James Brown in the 1760s and 70s. These buildings retain their original railings, details and setted streets.

• Archers’ Hall built in 1776 and extended in 1900 sits in a tarmac forecourt set back from Buccleuch Street.

• Hope Park Square a charming Georgian Square containing a delightful Dutch gabled building of 1725.

Archer’s Hall

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Victorian McEwan Hall Buildings from this era tend to occur in the north of this area and are institutional in nature they consist of:

• McEwan Hall and the University Medical School a large Venetian Cinquecento complex designed by Rowand Anderson and built in two stages. The medical school frontage to Teviot Place is long and regular, inside this building there is an impressive courtyard. McEwan Hall is described in the Buildings of Edinburgh as “a magnificent petrified blancmange”.

• Student’s Union on Teviot Place is built in an early 16th former century Scots style. George Watson’s Ladies • The former George Watson’s Ladies’ College now the College Psychology Department on the north side of George Square, a category listed building, built in the French Renaissance manner in 1876.

• Reid School of music on Teviot Row is an unfussy Italianate building of 1858.

Modern The half redeveloped George Square campus constitutes the largest concentration of 1960s buildings in the conservation area and represents major buildings produced by the offices of Basil Spence and Robert Mathews.

• With the exception of the two tower blocks and the massing of the remaining redevelopments on George Square the area is generally harmonious in scale, massing and materials.

• There are significant key institutional buildings contained in this area. tower block at George Square

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Third Expansion Area from West to East Spatial Structure Crosscauseway East/West Crosscauseway crossing the Pleasance and including Beaumont Place to the north forms the boundaries to this area. The Boundary then moves south on St Leonard’s Hill before moving east to include the former James Clark School. St Leonard’s Bank is included and the boundary then runs along the back of St Leonard’s Bank, excluding the new residential developments on the former goods yard, and returns to the Pleasance taking in Hermits and Termits house. The boundary then takes in Parkside Street before moving west to return to the Pleasance. Bernard Terrace and Hope Park Terrace form the Southern boundary before meeting the eastern boundary formed by Hope Park Crescent and Buccleuch Street.

Although some irregularity is evidenced in the street blocks in the north of this area, between St Leonard’s Street and Buccleuch Street, the blocks generally become more regular particularly towards the Clerk Street south. As a consequence there is a greater degree of formality about the blocks, which are lined with tenements. This reduces the permeability of the area. Infilling occurs with the Odeon and the Queens Hall on Clerk Street. Pockets of residential redevelopment on former gap sites have taken place on all streets.

There are no connecting streets between Clerk Street and Buccleuch Street apart from the boundary streets of West Crosscauseway and St Leonard’s Street Hope Park Terrace. However there is a cul de sac off Gifford Park and a new pend entry at Buccleuch Pend, which give a high degree of pedestrian permeability, while creating small block sizes behind the main facade of Clerk Street.

On the east side of St Leonard’s Street new development has occurred with a brick built residential block sitting next to a new police station. New flats have also been built on St Leonard’s Hill and Lane. These developments have followed the grain and height of existing blocks. Further east, the single sided, St Leonard’s Bank has a spectacular view over Queens Drive to Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat.

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St Patrick Square Public open space is at a premium within the urban fabric of this area, occurring at the Georgian planned St Patrick Square and the more informal Victorian corner square on St Leonard’s Street/Bernard Terrace. However, the formal planned parkland of the Meadows forms the western side of Hope Park Crescent, while the wilderness of Holyrood Park defines the eastern edge of this area.

• More formal block pattern reduces permeability and gives a more urban feeling to the area. This feeling is increased by the lack of open spaces within the area.

St Leonard’s Street / Bernard Terrace

Townscape This area combines the busy shopping thoroughfare of Clerk Street with the openness of St Patrick Square relieving the general line of four storey classical facades. There are four streets connecting Clerk Street with St Leonard’s to the east all being residential in character. Cowan’s Close that runs off East Crosscauseway forms a cul de sac entry into the middle of the block giving access to new brick built flats. Montague Street Building lines on the three main north south routes are virtually all to the heel of the pavement, while the east to west routes have small front gardens. Low stone walls with a multiplicity of fencing materials define these garden areas. With the exception of St Patrick Square and West Crosscauseway none of the streets are setted.

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The area is dominated to the east by constant views down streets of Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s seat. The spires of the Queens Hall, St Peter’s and Buccleuch and Greyfriars churches are prominent landmarks punctuating the roofscape. The large open space of the Meadows is encountered as a surprise when exiting this dense urban area via Buccleuch Street and Hope Park Terrace.

As with the other areas there is a variety in building heights between three and six storeys, however, the average height tends towards four storeys. Buildings erected before the second world war are of stone and natural slate finished pitched roofs. Post war buildings in this area are a mixture of brick and harled construction, which respect the general massing and heights. St Peter’s on Lutton Place Clerk Street Clerk Street is the major linear shopping street with ground floor shopping being interrupted only at St Patrick Square. The activity of shops, offices, cafes, cinema and concert hall, combined with being the major transport link into the City Centre, give a strong liveliness to the street scene. Buccleuch Street is also a busy, more local street with a strong cafÈ element, which stops at Gifford Park. St Leonard’s Street has a number of local shops along its west side. The shop fronts need improvement.

• Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat dominate views to the east and should be protected.

• New developments reflect the massing and scale of the area and use render and blockwork to keep in character. On the main shopping streets mixed uses have been included.

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Architectural Character The variety and diversity of architectural styles and buildings continues to be reflected in this area. The use of stone, harling and slated roofs was universal up to the 1970s when brick developments began to be introduced.

Traditional A smattering of vernacular buildings occur along East and West Crosscauseway and on the returns down Buccleuch Street and St Patrick Street. These tend to be five storeys in height with typical wallhead gables and rear turret stair towers. Buccleuch Pend completed in 2001, adopts the same style. Hermits and Termits, a former “country house” at 64 St Leonard’s Street is probably the oldest house in the area dating from 1734. Hermits and Termits Buccleuch Pend off St Georgian Patrick Square The majority of this area is from the Georgian era beginning with St Patrick Square which was begun in 1800 to a unified scheme. Clerk Street begun in 1810 continues the line of Nicolson Street. These droved, ashlar fronted tenements continue into Montague and Rankeillor Streets. Development in the latter street was halted in the 1830’s and picked up again in the 1860s. The three windowed Georgian bow corner of Parkside and St Leonard’s Street provides a point of articulation to the bend of St Leonard’s Street.

The most prominent building of this period is the former church on Clerk Street now occupied by the Queen’s Hall and built in 1823 by Robert Brown.

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Victorian As indicated above the main period for building began in the 1860s with a burst of streets including Bernard Terrace, Hope Park Terrace and the completion of Rankeillor Street. While some blocks continue the flat faced tenemental style of the Georgian Period others see the introduction of bay windows to the street frontage. Bernard Terrace Modern Between the wars some redevelopment occurred with the City Architect providing new housing on East Crosscauseway, St Patrick’s Square and Gifford Park. The insertion of a white tiled art deco cinema occurred on Clerk Street in 1930.

From the 1970s numerous infill residential schemes have been completed, particularly in the St Leonard’s area. These schemes are a mixture of brickwork, blockwork and render with the blockwork and render developments being most in keeping visually The best scheme is one produced on St Leonard’s by SSHA. This forms a full street block being three and four storeys in height with an attractive, internal, amenity courtyard development and sensitively designed car parking and garden space. The streets are addressed well and there is a high degree of permeability through the block. Buccleuch Pend The recent recreation of Buccleuch Pend, copying the original vernacular Georgian style with a wallhead gable to the front and a turnpike stair to the rear, and the modern infill residential scheme on Buccleuch Street behind the Odeon cinema, illustrate two approaches to infill that have worked in the use of materials, scale and design.

• Despite the variety of architectural styles and periods which are evidenced this area remains generally harmonious in scale, massing and materials.

• The use of brickwork is not in keeping and should be avoided.

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Fourth Expansion Area

Spatial Structure Hope Park Terrace and Bernard Terrace form the boundaries to this area to the north linked to Summerhall and Sciennes on the west. The boundary then moves to the east along the back of the properties on Sciennes House Place before linking with Causewayside and moving south to meet Salisbury Place and Salisbury Road. The northern corners of Salisbury Road at each end are included, but the boundary runs along the rear of the properties in the centre section. The eastern boundary returns northwards up Dalkeith Road taking in Parkside Street and St Margaret’s and St Leonard’s Church before re-engaging with Bernard Terrace. Newington Road Larger block sizes are found in this area producing a lack of permeability and reflecting the larger feuing pattern found as a consequence of being further to the south of the old City Walls. This gives a degree of uniformity and solidity to some of the blocks. This uniformity is broken on the east side of Newington Road with Georgian tenements set back from the pavement and having shops occupying what were the front gardens to these properties. On the opposite side of the street there is a terrace of individual housing where the front gardens have been given over to car parking. Causewayside differs also in evidencing a mix of styles of buildings.

Dalkeith Road / Bernard Terrace In terms of redevelopment the City Architect’s work of the 1930s occurs on the corner of Dalkeith Road and Bernard Terrace. The other redevelopments that have taken place are mainly residential infill developments on East Newington Place, Sciennes and Causewayside where the opportunity for creating pedestrian routes linking streets has been lost.

A new office block has been built on Bernard Terrace with new single storey workshops and a yard occupying the centre of the block behind. There are no further development opportunities in the area.

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There is no formal open space contained within the area, although the meadows touches the north west boundary. Preston Street Burial Ground provides a green area off Dalkeith Road.

• More formal block pattern reduces permeability and gives a more urban feeling to the area. This feeling is increased Preston Street by the lack of open spaces within the area. Burial Ground

Townscape The principal route through the area to the north is South Clerk Street and Newington Road. This is crossed by East and West Preston Street linking Causewayside with Dalkeith Road (the other principal north/south routes). T h e effect of this is to create four large blocks, which are only subdivided in the south west and north east blocks. Blackwood Crescent and Oxford Street subdivide these blocks, which are quiet tenemental streets. Even quieter cul de sac streets occur at Summerhall Place, South Oxford Street and East Newington Place.

Building lines to the heel of the pavement occur on South Clerk Street and Causewayside. Elsewhere there are generally small front gardens to the front of tenements and new flatted developments, giving a degree of privacy. A significant departure from the building line occurs on Newington Road. The east side has a Georgian terrace set back from the building line, which would have had long front gardens originally. With the exception of one plot these are all now occupied with single storey shops. Similarly on the west side of Newington Road, between West Preston Street and West Newington Place there is a terrace of three storey houses set back from the building line whose front gardens are completely given over to parking. original front garden on Newington Road Building heights vary across the area from two and half to five storeys, with the average height being four stories. As with the rest of the South Side all buildings erected up to the second world war are of stone construction with pitched slated roofs. More recent buildings from the 1980s onwards tend to use a blockwork and, or harling finish. The incidence of brick buildings is not so great in this area as in the rest of the conservation area. However, the triangular block formed by Sciennes and Causewayside has been fully redeveloped with flatted schemes using brick finishes.

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One building that detracts from the area is the 1960s, eight storey ribbed tower belonging to the Royal (Dick) Vet College on the corner of Hope Park Terrace and Summerhall. This building breaks through the general height of the South Side and forms an inappropriate punctuation at the east end of the meadows. Royal (Dick) Vet College The main shopping street is South Clerk Street and Newington Road, with a break in shopping occurring on the west side of Newington Road where a terraced range of small hotels and B&Bs occurs. It is worth noting that shopping on Newington Road stops on the southern boundary of the conservation area where Minto Street begins. Other more specialised shopping occurs on Causewayside. Institutional uses occur with the Royal Dick Vet Hospital on Summerhall, Historic Scotland occupying the former Longmore Hospital, and The Royal Commission for Ancient and Historic Monuments Scotland occupying a new office block on Bernard Terrace.

• The multi storey block of the Royal Dick Vet College is a disrupting element to the skyline

Architectural Character There is a continuing variety and diversity of architectural styles throughout this area although the emphasis moves more into Victorian buildings with the Georgian period being evidenced more in the south where the boundaries of the South Side and Blacket Conservation Areas meet.

Traditional There is one vernacular building of the late 1700s with two wallhead gables occurring at 21 - 25 Causewayside.

21-25 Causewayside

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Newington Road Georgian Significant parts of this area stem from the Georgian era beginning on Newington Road which was started in 1805 and continued over the next 20 years. The terrace properties vary in height from two and half to three and a half storeys. Victorian and twentieth century shops have overlaid these properties. East Newington Place is an incomplete terrace started in 1835. West Preston Street, which was started in 1824, was not completed until 1851. Lord Russell Place The triangular block with a bow front on the corner of Sciennes and Lord Russell Place provides a prominent point of articulation.

Victorian This period saw the linking of the Georgian developments of Montague Street and Nicolson Street with Victorian infilling between. In the early part of this period restraint was exercised in terms of continuing development in the Georgian manner. This is particularly true on Lutton Place and extending into Oxford Street. Similarly with the extension of Preston Street round into Summerhall Place. As the Victorian period progressed mansard roofs and bay windows began to appear. Later buildings introduced gablets and spired towers, some of which are particularly exuberant. This is especially true of the tenemental block on Parkside Terrace Dalkeith Road and that on the corner of Dalkeith Road and Salisbury Road. / Salisbury Road Two churches are particularly significant with prominent spires that can be seen throughout the conservation area. These are St Peter’s on Lutton Place and St Margaret’s and St Leonard’s on Dalkeith Road. Other prominent buildings are the former Longmore Hospital of classical design erected between 1878 and 1880; and the Hope Park and Buccleuch Congregational Church former on Hope Park Terrace an Italianate building of Longmore Hospital 1876. St Margaret’s and St Leonard’s

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Basil Spence designed Garage Modern Twentieth century buildings include a 1937 international style garage, now an off licence, designed by Basil Spence. In 1972 the same firm designed the head office for the Scottish Widows Fund and Life Assurance lying just outwith the conservation area boundary on Dalkeith Road. The Royal Commonwealth Pool designed by the firm of Robert Matthew, Johnson Marshall and built for the Commonwealth games of 1970 complements this building. Again this building lies on Dalkeith Road just outside the conservation area boundary.

workshops at Lutton Place More recent developments include residential infill schemes on Causewayside and Sciennes; Blackwood Crescent; East Newington Place and West Preston Street. A small terraced scheme of four single storey workshops is located within the tenemental block on the north side of Lutton Place providing economic vitality to the area. Blackwood Crescent

• Modern residential schemes are generally harmonious in scale and massing however, the use of brickwork and the way some schemes address the street is inappropriate.

• This area evidences good design connections between the Georgian and Victorian eras.

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Opportunities For Enhancement

Summary of elements that enhance and detract from the special character of the conservation area.

It should be pointed out that the opportunities for enhancement listed below are presented as potential projects which may be carried out if funds become available.

Nicolson Square / Street gap Development Opportunity Sites There are a small number of sites that present themselves as development opportunities. These need to be treated with great sensitivity in order to create a degree of cohesion and unity and to tie the surrounding areas together. Modern innovative buildings should be considered. The sites concerned are

• The south east corner of Nicolson Square and Nicolson Crichton Street. This is a gap site created by a fire approximately Street car park ten years ago. The site is currently in multiple ownership and surrounded by unsightly hoardings.

• The strip of ground running along the east side of Potterrow behind the Festival Theatre is cleared and the site presents a long row of hoardings to the street.

• Crichton Street car park provides the largest development East side of Potterrow site in the conservation area. This site provides a great opportunity to link George Square and Bristo Square with an innovative building that unifies the area.

• The north side of Bristo Square presents an opportunity to enclose and complete the square.

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Squares and Open Spaces There are a number of formal and informal open spaces that would benefit from an improvement of the quality and nature of these spaces. West Crosscauseway and Buccleuch Street • Consideration could be given to creating a formal square at the junction of West Crosscauseway and Buccleuch Street.

• The small square at the front of the inter-war housing on the Pleasance is in very poor condition and would benefit from an enhancement scheme

• The small square at the Nelson Hall on Dalkeith Road is a south Nelson Hall facing corner site with paving in a poor condition and a small circular flower bed. This space could be redesigned as a pocket park with improved paving and seating.

• Boroughloch Square, which is in private ownership, is completely given over to car parking and could be subject to an enhancement scheme.

• Nicolson Square and St Patrick Square would benefit from Boroughloch Square enhancement, particular in the reinstatement of dwarf walls, railings and replacement trees of a larger scale to complement adjacent architecture and act as a foil to the main road. Greater public access could be provided to these squares, including Hill Square.

• Health Centre Site on West Richmond Street/Pleasance is an important strategic site located on an important route into the City Centre. It has small trees in poor condition with mesh fencing around the boundary. Improvements could include cast iron railings Hill Square and replacing trees around the perimeter with large species to complement the townscape.

Generally the quality of existing open spaces could be improved through further tree planting, giving greater access and boundary treatments.

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Street Enhancements The fencing and railings on many streets are of differing types and poor materials namely weld mesh and chain link. The front garden walls are also in poor condition in lots of cases. Enhancement schemes on a street by street basis could be considered to give unity to boundary treatments.

Shop Front Improvements There are a wide range of shop front styles ranging from good to poor. Consideration could be given to introducing a shop front improvement scheme in selected areas.

Wheelie Bins The introduction of wheelie bins has made a major impact on resolving litter and associated environmental health problems. Efforts have been made to locate containers in a manner which minimises their visual impact. Such efforts must continue to ensure that townscape quality is respected. Within the World Heritage Site a strategy is being prepared for waste management.

Role of the Public It is essential that property owners accept their maintenance responsibilities. The emphasis should be on the repair rather than replacement of original features, as these contribute to the conservation area’s character as a whole. Alterations or additions should be sympathetic to the original style and of an appropriate scale.

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General Information

Statutory Policies All Local Authorities are directed by Scottish Office Development Department Circular No. 13/1998 to Historic Scotland’s Memorandum of Guidance on listed buildings and conservation areas, in their consideration of conservation and listed building consent matters.

The South Side Conservation Area lies wholly within the area covered by the Central Edinburgh Local Plan (adopted in May 1997). The Local Plan identifies a significant part of the conservation area as falling within a mixed activity zone with an emphasis on promoting an appropriate mix of activities, which contribute to local character and vitality. The remainder of the Local Plan area is covered by a Housing and Compatible uses zoning in which the existing residential character and amenities are to be safeguarded. Within the Conservation Area the existing architectural character, historic and landscape character is to be preserved and enhanced.

The linear shopping street of South Bridge, Nicolson Street, Clerk Street and South Clerk Street has designated Primary Frontages where a maximum of 20% non retail use is allowed; and Secondary Frontages where a maximum of 40% non retail use is allowed. This linear shopping street is also safeguarded as a route for a light rapid transit proposal.

Supplementary to the Central Edinburgh Local Plan is the World Heritage Site Conservation Manifesto. The objective of the Manifesto is to assist in preserving the historic fabric of the World Heritage Site and ensure that changes complement and enhance its special character.

Supplementary Guidelines The Council also produces supplementary planning guidance on a range of development control issues. These are contained within the Development Quality Handbook.

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Implications Of Conservation Area Status Designation as a conservation area has the following implications:

• Permitted development rights under the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992 are restricted. Planning permission is, therefore, required for stonecleaning, external painting, roof alterations and the formation of hard surfaces. The area of extensions to dwelling houses, which may be erected without consent, is also restricted to 16m2 and there are additional controls over satellite dishes.

• Under Article 4 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, the planning authority can seek approval of the Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict permitted development rights. The Directions effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor alterations to buildings in conservation areas that can cumulatively lead to erosion of character and appearance. Development is not precluded, but such alterations will require planning permission and special attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. The South Side Conservation Area is currently covered by the full range of Article 4 Directions:

Class 1 enlargement, improvement or other alteration to a dwelling house

Class 3 provision or alteration of buildings or enclosures within the curtilage of a dwelling house

Class 6 installation, alteration or replacement of a satellite dish

Class 7 construction or alteration of gates, fences, walls or other means of enclosure

Class 30/33 local authority development

Class 38 water undertakings

Class 39 development by public gas suppliers

Class 41 development by tramway or road transport undertakings

Class 40 development by electricity statutory undertakers

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• Alterations to windows are controlled in terms of the Council’s policy.

Trees within conservation areas covered by the Town and Country (Scotland) Act 1972, as amended by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997. The Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level, and concerns the lopping of trees as much as removal. The planning authority must be given six weeks notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice renders the person liable to the same penalties as for contravention of a TPO.

Grants may be available towards the repair or restoration of historic buildings. The Council runs a conservation grant scheme. Such grants are normally dependent on comprehensive repair and restoration of original features and priority is given to tenemental housing and prominent buildings. Within the World Heritage Site grants are administered by the Edinburgh World Heritage Trust.

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References

Gifford J, McWilliam C, Walker D, Wilson C, The buildings of Scotland - Edinburgh (Penguin Books, 1984)

Historic Scotland, Memorandum of Guidance on listed buildings and conservation areas 1998.

Gray, John G, South Side Story (W.F.Knox & Co, 1962)

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51 This document is available on request in Braille, tape, large print various computer formats and community languages. Please contact ITS on 0131 242 8181 and quote ref. 02246/9. For additional English copies please contact the enquiry office on 0131 529 3900.

Andrew M Holmes Director of City Development The City of Edinburgh Council 1 Cockburn Street Edinburgh EH1 1ZJ

Produced by the City Development Department : Planning & Strategy

ISBN 1 85191 053 0