GUARDIAN FREE guide to an area of outstanding natural beauty 2015

Coast history special

Here, now, always

INSIDE Competitions 8 pages of events & map Local foods & recipes 2 A SPECIAL PLACE NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015

NORFOLK COAST PARTNERS THE NORFOLK COAST A place for everyone, for ever Natural PARTNERSHIP Norfolk County Council South Wing at Fakenham Fire Station, As every year, this newspaper comes to you from The Norfolk Coast has a wide range of landscapes District Council Road, Fakenham, the team at the Norfolk Coast Partnership. The – from hilly chalk ridges and heathlands, to expansive Borough Council of King’s Lynn Norfolk NR21 8BB Partnership is a group of organisations (listed right) flat saltmarsh. And a wide range of ways to enjoy and West Norfolk T: 01328 850530 active in looking after the wonderful Norfolk Coast, them, from sailing on the sea to walking on the land. Borough Council E: offi[email protected] backed up by a small staff team at Fakenham. This edition of the Guardian focusses on the rich Broads Authority W: www.norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk As a designated ‘area of outstanding natural and deep history of the coast. We go back deep into Environment Agency Manager: Tim Venes beauty’, we are one of a family of protected areas the past – but look ahead too, with our ‘Making Policy and partnership officer: English Heritage which extend across the world. History’ boxes. Settle down for an interesting read Estelle Hook The idea is to protect what is most special about – and plan some great days out on the beautiful National Trust Communications officer: Lucy Galvin nature and landscape, and its relation to us as coast with our public transport guide and what’s on Norfolk Association of Local Councils Community and external funding officer: Kate Dougan humans – and to learn from it. section. Norfolk FWAG Project officer: Gemma Clark Norfolk Rivers Trust Project support officer: Steve Tutt Funding Partners RSPB DEFRA; Norfolk County Council; Country Land and Business Association North Norfolk District Council; Borough Council of King’s Lynn & West National Farmers Union Norfolk and Great Yarmouth Borough Community Representatives Council AONB Common Rights holders The Norfolk Coast Guardian is published Commissioners by Countrywide Publications on behalf of the Norfolk Coast Partnership. The Wash and North Norfolk Coast Editor: Lucy Galvin. European Marine Site Management Designed and produced by: Scheme Countrywide Publications T: 01502 725870. Printed by Mortons Print on sustainable newsprint. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication. However, the publishers can accept no responsibility for any effects arising there from. Views expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the Norfolk Coast Partnership member

Norfolk Coast Partnership Coast Norfolk organisations. All material copyright Norfolk Coast Articles available in large print: please contact 01328 850530 or via website www.norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk Partnership 2015. NCP 03/15 – 60K NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015 A SPECIAL PLACE 3 Wildness, space and peace National Trust / Justin Minns National Trust Boats on the at Blakeney. Boats on the salt marsh at Blakeney. This edition of the Norfolk Coast Guardian takes Patrick Barkham opens our look back into the Norfolk Coast’s special you on a journey into the past of the coast. And what a past it is. There’s deep history: the first history with the story of how the coast has shaped him. human footprints at ; the mystery y first memory of the seaside of the seahenges; the wild West Runton beasts. is sitting in an oversized or- There’s natural history – the coast can lay claim ange life jacket listening to Find out for yourself to being the cradle of conservation in the UK, with shrieks of wading birds and You can experience wilderness almost reserve, managed by Natural England. theM chink-chink-slap of the rigging on anywhere along the Norfolk coast if you Access to such a sensitive site is difficult. the first nature reserves. Then there’s the human plan your day. Follow our guidelines to There are no facilities – no toilets, no history - village treasures, parish churches, farming sailing boats clustered in the small creek. I was three, and my parents were taking me visit the coast and help to keep it special: accommodation, no shelter! Visitors techniques that have shaped the nation – and a key and my sister on a small boat from Bran- • Leave the car behind – take public are discouraged from crossing by foot role in wartime too. caster Staithe for a holiday on Scolt Head transport, walk or cycle – you’ll because the are dangerous, and Of course, history is not just then, it’s now. Island. see much more. Or hop in a boat! most people who visit choose to land The kind of coast we love most pas- •Respect wildlife – follow the on the eastern end via private boat or We’re all constantly making it! The Norfolk Coast countryside code; keep to paths; avoid the ferry from Staithe. sionately is often formed by childhood Partnership represents a group of key organisations and shingle nesting areas and Access to the western end is prohibited holidays. When compared to the vivid keep dogs under control. during the nesting season because of the set up to ensure the area’s future is as diverse and beauty of the sandy coves of Cornwall, or fascinating as its past. Look out for the Making • Buy local products – support the sensitive colonies. Some guided tours the wild Pembrokeshire cliffs, the muddy local economy and get a better deal for of the area are available. You can also history boxes throughout for details of how we are smudge of the North Norfolk coast, with everyone. enjoy fine views and a sense of its doing that today. And enjoy the ride! its muted palette of olives, duns and pew- • Get involved – there are lots of from Gun Hill, on the mainland, which ters, can seem underwhelming. organisations that could use your help lies on the North . But my heart leaps in this wide, windy to care for the coast. More at norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk/ and empty land and I am not alone. North Scolt Head today is a fragile nature understanding and enjoyment Norfolk’s landscape seeps into us, with its own subtle and unique beauty, regardless of where we were raised. planted in the 1920s as part of an experi- our understanding of the natural world. In geological terms, it is a young coast- ment to see what species could survive Amidst the seal trips and holidaymakers, line, a tentative line between marsh and there. this academic work still goes on: every flimsy sea, constantly changing, and likely For all our concerns about develop- summer, a Cambridge professor still visits to change more dramatically in the future. ment, one human impulse has shaped to study its mud snails. And the island of Scolt is younger than this coast more than any other in the past It is no coincidence that after a century most parts, perhaps only 800 years old, century. North Norfolk could lay claim of such protections, the Norfolk coast is constantly growing westwards. to being the cradle of conservation. Blak- more precious than ever. More than ever, Seen from the sky, Scolt can almost re- eney Point became the first coastal nature we crave its wildness, space and peace. semble a human embryoyo in sshape:hape: riridgesdges rreserveeserve in tthehe country when it was Scolt’s first warden (a woman – another of dunes separating saltt marsh, an iin-n- purchasedpurchased by the National Trust innovation) put it perfectly. Emma Turner tricate web of capillarieses that inhale in 1912, and the Trust protected grew up in Kent but was seduced by Scolt 0DNLQJKLVWRU\ and exhale sea water aatt hihighgh and SScoltcolt 1111 years later. Local bird- when she moved there in 1924. “That first The Paston Family letters are an incredible record of life in the low . watchewatcherr Sydney Long founded day of solitude has bitten deep into my area – and the most comprehensive story of medieval day to day life that exists anywhere. This part of the Norfolkorfolk coast the NoNorfolkr Wildlife Trust after memory,” she wrote in her memoirs. “It The Norfolk Coast Partnership’s Sustainable Development is as wild as southern EEnglandngland ggetsets rraisingaising mmoney to buy Cley in filled me with wild joy to think that for Fund is helping Paston Heritage Society tell part of the story of and yet it is a landscapee sshapedhaped by 1926 aandn NWT is the oldest months I should possess the island with all the past with today’s techniques and the community. us. I love how every tinyny ridgeridge aandnd WWildlifeildlife Trust in the country. its mystery and loveliness.” Using high tech 3D computer visual imaging, the society has marsh on Scolt has beenen named – CCreatingreati entire “reserves” to made a reconstruction of the inside of the church in the 14th Wire Hills, Long Hills,s, PlantaPlantagogo ssaveave nativnativee wildlife was a radical Patrick Barkham is the author of Coast- century showing rare medieval wall paintings – and is planning to Marsh, Plover Marsh – there ssteptep at ttheh time. In the decades lines – The Story of our Shore, published work with local ceramicists to make art which records the amazing are even a few exoticotic that ffollowed, Blakeney and by Granta (more details on page 20). He images. New details of the paintings were uncovered during the plants, including Japa-- SScoltcol attracted the first grew up in mid-Norfolk, holidayed in North recent restoration works at St Margaret’s. thisispaston.co.uk nese Rose and White ggenerationen of British ecol- Norfolk and now lives in East Norfolk with Poplars, that were ogists,ogis who vastly widened his family. 4 DEEP HISTORY Time to go in deep This dynamic coast yields up some amazing secrets – from the footprints of our first tourists to a mammoth, a rhino and two sea ‘henges’. Pete Waters of Visit Norfolk tells the long, long story…

he Norfolk Coast has changed our understand- ing of pre-prehistoric times. 0DNLQJ This ‘deep history’ landscape KLVWRU\ Tcontains the most important archae- The Norfolk Coast Partnership is to celebrate ological site in western europe, the and protect one of Norfolk’s most mysterious best preserved site in the creatures, the eel, thanks to its successful bid for a country and is the only county where £97,500 Heritage Lottery Fund grant. The critically- evidence of four species of human endangered European eel will be in the spotlight have been found. as the new two-year project focuses on the River This is where, pre-Ice Age, a land Glaven, to improve and encourage an mass connected Britain to the Conti- increase in the numbers of this amazing fish. It builds on work already undertaken by the Norfolk Coast nent, and 900,000-year-old footprints, Partnership, Norfolk Rivers Trust and the the oldest evidence of man outside Af- Conservation Group to restore the Norfolk Coast’s rica’s Rift Valley, were left at Happis- rare chalk rivers. burgh by nomads hunting mammoths, bison, rhinos, hippos and deer – if they could get them before the lions and hyenas. TheTh flint fli tool l - which hi h can be b seen The find came by chance in 2013, at Norwich Castle Museum - was Steppe Mammoth reconstruction based on modern Asian elephant. Dr David Waterhouse Norfolk Museums service when a team of British Museum, cutting edge technology, and so im- Natural History Museum and Queen portant it changed our knowledge of Mary University of scientists human history. Analysis of pollen in were conducting a geophysics survey the allows us to build a picture of on a shoreline just scoured by high temperate woodland with pine, alder, seas to reveal estuary mud. oak, elm and hornbeam in evidence at Get to grips with our past This area would have been a great the time the handaxe was made. plain - similar to East Africa’s Ser- Also dated around 700,000 years engeti - that was grazed by animals ago is the West Runton Mammoth; With hands-on historians Martin Warren and Jenny Quested similar to those still found in Af- the most complete specimen of the rica and the footmarks were in what species to have been found in the would have been an estuary of what world and the oldest mammoth skel- 1 Walk through the ice age of the jigsaw that is building a picture of Norfolk’s lost might have been the original course eton to have been found in the UK. landscapes. The Geology Walks have expanded this year to include of the Thames. The pelvic bone of a large elephant five coastal sites between Beeston Bump and Happisburgh. Using 3-D photography the hol- was found at the bottom of cliffs by Former curator at museum, and geologist Martin Warren: “I’ve spent most of my life now in The walking is not too strenuous; the talks not too lows revealed in the mud were found West Runton couple Harold and North Norfolk and the longer I am here the more it technical and it is suitable for all ages from 8 to 80. There to be the marks of heels and toes – five Margaret Hems in December 1990 fascinates me. As a geologist it has been a playground will be stories, fossils, dramatic cliffs and new discoveries people, adults and children, the tallest after a weather-ravaged night. of landscapes and coastline where a stream of world- to be made on the shore. Who knows what you will find? standing at 5ft 9in. Its thought the no- A year later, another storm revealed class scientific discoveries has been made over the years. Come and see the great outdoors but don’t forget to dress mads were perhaps pausing to gather more bones and in January 1992 an Norfolk’s Ice Age Coast really is remarkable because the for all weathers!” plants or shellfish. exploratory dig was carried out, fol- young geological strata hold the key evidence of our More details northfolk.org.uk. The link to the European main- lowed by a three-month excavation recent geological history. You may not appreciate this land was lost after the final thawing of in 1995. It unearthed the most com- but the evidence is all around, if you only have eyes to the Ice Age as late as 6,500 years ago. plete skeleton of an elephant, from the see. 2 Dig down at A little later, at around 550,000 to species Mammuthus trogontherii. Eighty So now that I have left the museum world I run 700,000 years ago, a flint hand axe was five per cent of it was there – with the geology walks to help people understand the earth Volunteer dig member Jenny Quested, studying made that was also found at Happis- only missing bits having been nibbled beneath their feet and to bring the past alive for them. and Anthropology at University College burgh. The Palaeolithic tool, with a off by scavenging hyenas (some of the Norfolk is so rich mainly because of the Ice Age, when London on her time at a community dig: “Registered groove for the user’s thumb, had been bones have hyena bitemarks). At 4m the world cooled and ice sheets spread from northern charity Sedgeford Historical and Archaeological Research preserved in a dense peaty deposit in tall at the shoulder, and weighing 10 highlands down this far south. Our landscape is the Project (SHARP) has been carrying out excavations every a former forest bed. Discovered by a tonnes, it is the biggest elephant skel- product of those events and the cliffs on the coast give us summer since 1996, making the parish a focal point in dog-walker in 2000, it led to other sig- eton ever found. an unprecedented view of the strata beneath the surface. discovering the rich heritage of the area. It offers a range nificant tool and bone finds at a spot Here the evidence of our pre-glacial world is preserved, of different opportunities for the public to get involved. Including week long archaeological training courses, and that gives up its secrets as this dynamic To find out more about the Cromer including elephants and rhinos and archaeology as delicate as the earliest human footprints. Only this winter chances for those with experience of excavating to get coast moves. Forest-bed: ahobproject.org. the remains of a partial rhino skull were recovered from involved too. At the time this find pushed back See parts of the mammoth at Cromer the West Runton Freshwater Bed, adding another piece Excavations first took place on this site in 1957, the evidence for human colonisation Museum and Norwich Castle Museum this far north by at least 100,000 years. & Art Gallery. NORFOLKNORFOLK COCOASTAST GUGUARDIANARDIAN 22015 DEEP HISTORY 5

And more recently (just 4,200 years ago) The second Bronze Age wooden circle discovered at Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s nature reserve, has been dated to the same year as its neighbour, known as Seahenge. In the late 1990s two remarkable and well-preserved Bronze Age tim- ber circles were discovered on Holme Beach. Seahenge was excavated in 1998 and 1999 and since then ar- chaeologists have been studying the second circle. In 2014 English Herit- age funded tree ring dating showed that the trees used to make the sec- ond circle were felled in the spring or summer of 2049 BC, at exactly the same time as those from Seahenge. Prehistoric timbers rarely survive and have been found at only two of the ’s timber circles – these are the two on Holme Beach. The exceptional survival of the Hol- me timber circles means they are the only ones to have been dated precise- Holme December 1998. David Robertson ly by tree ring dating. The discovery that they were constructed at exactly Kevin Hart, Head of Nature Re- the same time is unique. serves at Norfolk Wildlife Trust said: David Robertson, historic envi- “NWT Holme Dunes is a very frag- ronment officer at Norfolk County ile nature reserve and the quality of Council, said the research showed the the wildlife habitat is reflected in the two circles must have been directly fact that it holds nearly every national linked. “The form of the second cir- and international statutory protec- cle and research into similar Bronze tion available.” Age structures suggests it was part of Although the second circle is cur- a burial mound. The evidence indi- rently covered by sand and so entirely cates the two central logs originally hidden from view, Seahenge is on supported a timber object – this may display in Lynn Museum. Norfolk Holme under sand August 2011. NCC well have been a coffin made from a County Council’s Historic Environ- hollowed out tree trunk. ceremony marking the death of an to ensure their spirit passed onto the ment Service is currently preparing “Seahenge is thought to have important individual. It is possible next world. The body could have an academic article on the tree ring been a free-standing timber circle. their body was placed on the central then been moved to the second circle dating project, hopefully for publica- It may have been built as part of a upturned tree stump, an act designed for burial.” tion in 2015/16.

after an abundance of Saxon pottery and human bone were discovered by local farm workers. An Anglo- Saxon cemetery was uncovered after archaeological investigation, although the incomplete publication of this research resulted in the new excavations in 1996. Since, a Middle Saxon (700-850AD) Christian Cemetery has been extensively excavated. Later, main phases that can be observed within the excavated areas of the site includes Middle-Late Saxon structural and drainage features as well as a late Saxon midden. More recent excavations into the 2000s in new areas have uncovered Iron Age, Roman and Anglo Saxon archaeology. Of note has been the ‘Sedgeford Hoarde’, 39 coins minted in France from 60- 50BC which displayed a remarkable lack of wear. Last summer I spent two weeks volunteering at SHARP. My time was spent excavating in a trench set out to explore part of a large Anglo Saxon ‘D’ shaped enclosure. Out and about on a geology walk Situated on the side of a hill overlooking the campsite and

Martin Warren surrounded by green sugar beet fields, this was an idyllic and peaceful landscape to spend time excavating. No archaeologist can deny that the most exciting moment in any excavation is finding something; even a sherd of pottery can send up the heart rate. In my time spent volunteering here we found a large amount of ‘Ipswich Ware’ pottery from the Middle Saxon Period, between 700-850 AD. In an adjacent trench, a stir was caused when a large Roman coin was found, in excellent condition; a tribute to the diversity of archaeology within this site. SHARP’s stimulating, exciting and informative range of fieldwork opportunities as well as separate archaeology courses run on site are complimented by the first class facilities, catering – and above all great sense of community which really add to the whole experience.” More details sharp.org.uk Digging at Sedgeford Jenny Quested Jenny 6 NATURAL HISTORY NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015

Longshore life Traditional activities, like samphire cockles and soft shell crabs, whereas gathering, bait digging and wildfowling other activities such as wildfowling are an important aspect of the culture may only be carried out by members and economy along the Norfolk Coast. of wildfowling clubs and associations. The Wash and North Norfolk Traditional activities, such as Coast European Marine Site is one samphire gathering, bait digging and of the most important marine areas wildfowling are widely recognised as on the coast. Its sand and important to the cultural heritage mud flats, ranging from estuarine to and economy of the north Norfolk marine, from the sheltered west of the coast. Such activities are generally Wash to wave-exposed North Norfolk seasonal, localised, traditional and Coast, are exceptionally important for sustainable. The sound management marine wildlife and were designated a of such activities over many years European Marine Site in 1996. has contributed to the long term Within the European Marine Site maintenance of the site’s condition traditional activities are the casual and the long term maintenance of the gathering of food or other items for wildlife and habitats of European and one’s own use. Some of the activities international importance found here. may be carried out by anyone visiting the seashore, like gathering of winkles, www.wnncems.co.uk Caring for Cley Three generations of family care created on the nature reserve. Ex- have gone into , tending the scrapes where Cley Marshes. Barry Madden where the first warden was the cur- love to feed, and attending to the rent warden Bernard Bishop’s great reed cutting and marsh grazing has grandfather, Robert. He was ap- meant birds that were feared lost to pointed in 1926 when the 400 acres Britain as breeding species 90 years on the north Norfolk coast became ago have come back to the marshes. the first nature reserve of the first Bitterns, marsh harriers, godwits and county Wildlife Trust. avocets have all returned to Cley. The cradle of Robert was a fisherman and The strength of three Bishop wildfowler who looked after the wardens of Cley Marshes stems reserve from his cottage in the vil- from a lifelong knowledge, not only lage. He was 78 when he retired in of wildlife, but of the people, work 1936. In that year the Trust built and traditions of the north Norfolk a brick and flint house above the coast – a deep knowledge from the conservation coast road, looking straight out over personal experience of being born the expanse of marshes and shingle and bred there. ridge to the sea. Robert’s grandson, They have seen the transition David North on how one of Europe’s finest wild Billy, who was 23, was appointed to from the old men for whom orni- succeed him. In January 1937 Billy thology meant shooting and speci- was protected for us all and his wife, Joyce moved into the mens, to the tens of thousands of warden’s house, where Bernard was people in all walks of life who now indswept coastal marshes breeding birds across the UK. as the Pallas’s Warbler shot by Edward born and still lives today. study the living birds in their natural patterned with sinuously We may look back in horror but Ramm at Cley on 31 October 1896 Billy was the warden of Cley habits with binoculars, cameras and W winding muddy creeks; in the early decades of the twentieth fell to these gentleman gunners. Marshes for more than forty years. notebooks. crunchy shingle beaches where the century most naturalists were ‘collec- Modern conservation took hold When he retired in 1978 Bernard, They also helped the NWT pio- waves swish and sigh; marram-crested tors’. Lacking modern field-guides, with the vision of men like Professor who had long been his assistant, neer development of a system of sand dunes over which skylarks sing; optics and cameras it really was a case Oliver who realised the importance took over at the age of 27. Under hides and trails where numbers of cattle-grazed freshwater marshes of ‘What’s hit is history and what’s of from his visits dur- Billy Bishop’s care, and continued people could observe without dis- where lapwings and redshank display missed is mystery’ and few early natu- ing the early 1900s with his Univer- since, scrapes and pools were turbing the birds. each spring and countless migratory ralists saw any contradiction in carry- sity College London students and Dr ducks and geese flight noisily across ing a shotgun and using it to procure Sydney Long, a leading-light in the winter skies. rarities. Norfolk and Norwich Naturalists’ We treasure and enjoy the Norfolk Many firsts for Britain (birds never Society. Both were involved in the Billy Bishop and Bernard Bishop coast for many elements. But how recorded in Britain previously), such National Trust’s acquisition of Blak- (below) as a child often do we consider the individuals whose vision, hard work, and some- times sheer bloody-mindedness have kept our coast this wonderful? Conservation here has a long his- tory. Site protection goes back more than 100 years to 1912 when the Na- tional Trust acquired Blakeney Point. There is probably nowhere better in Britain to trace a history of the changing face of nature conservation than between the villages of Blakeney and . The origins of modern conser-

vation stem in part from a reaction Osbourne Richard to the voracious depredations of the Simon Aspinall Wildlife Education Centre is Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s brand Victorian gentlemen gunners and new facility at Cley Marshes designed to help visitors explore, discover and collectors whose egg collecting, fond- be inspired by wildlife. The centre is packed full of information – and events ness for taxidermy and sheer slaugh- – about wildlife at Cley and along the North Norfolk coast, and can also be ter of wildlife saw the disappearance booked for business meetings and community use. For further information of marsh harrier, bittern, avocet, contact Rachael at Cley Marshes on 01263 740008 or visit NWT’s website: bearded tit and much other wildlife, www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk not just from the Norfolk coast, but as NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015 NATURAL HISTORY 7

0DNLQJ KLVWRU\ are a Norfolk speciality and there are hundreds in the Norfolk coast area – although many have been lost since the 1950s. A rich resource for wildlife, they provide an important habitat and an Like humans, natural ecological component of the landscape for a wide range of species. The Norfolk Coast Partnership habitats and the species has undertaken an initial survey of ponds, with the involvement of partners in the Norfolk Ponds Project. they support have changed This will tell us more about what exists and where to concentrate attention on restoration – or even over the centuries on the re-creation of ‘ghost’ ponds that have been filled in. coast. RSPB shows how – as

Carrie Carey explains Conservation has helped avocet numbers improve

Nature reserves have led to a dramatic A tiny wonder of survival, the tiger beetle eney Point and the subsequent acqui- Salthouse an 8km length of coastline, increase in numbers of bittern sition of most of Scolt Head Island in protected by National Trust and Nor- 1923. folk Wildlife Trust, now forms a true It was Dr Long who in 1926 se- Living Landscape. cured the purchase of Cley Marshes With support from Heritage Lot- at auction for £5,160 which led to tery Fund, together with many local the establishment of the Norfolk individuals and businesses, not only Naturalists Trust, now Norfolk Wild- has Cley Marshes nature reserve been life Trust. His vision is worth quot- expanded and enhanced but a new ing: ‘one is anxious to protect for visitor facility, the Simon Aspinall future generations areas of marsh, Wildlife Education Centre, opened heath, woods and undrained fenland this Easter providing new opportuni- Mild weather means little egret ar ... with their natural wealth of flora ties for visitors to discover and learn e now Coastal disturbance has caused numbers of ringed overwintering here and fauna.’ about conservation and wildlife of plover to decline From this vision has grown the this unique area. Wildlife Trust movement we see to- However we should not rest un- day, with Norfolk Wildlife Trust the der the illusion that all is now safe- very first Wildlife Trust, and Cley guarded; pressures of climate change, Marshes the very first Wildlife Trust , agricultural change, reserve. development and tourism all bring Today, because of this vision, we problems that our generation must have the amazing and well protected take action on. Let’s make sure that sites along the North Norfolk coast the wonderful legacy passed to us by which hundreds of thousands of visi- Sydney Long, Professor Oliver and tors enjoy. From Blakeney Point pro- their contemporaries continues to be Spoonbill were prolific in the reign of Henry VIII tected in 1912, Scolt Head Island in safeguarded. Let’s ensure that future Redshank have been adversely effected by loss 1923, Cley Marshes in 1926, Winter- generations can marvel at skies full of of habitat ton Dunes in 1956, Holme Dunes in geese, hear the call of the curlew and 1965, National Nature Re- be moved by achingly beautiful places serve in 1967, to touched by wildness. in 1971, these sites have been the key Modern conservation may no to protecting the diversity of both longer be the preserve of the few Taking note of change habitats and species we so value today. but if wildlife is to survive 21st cen- It was Professor Oliver who, pro- tury challenges then more than ever Off the coast of it is possible to see the ringed plover and little term to decline. posing the purchase of Scolt Head we need people of vision and places remains of a petrified forest at low tide. Since those However, there is a positive outlook for north Norfolk’s Island following the successful earlier and centres like NWT Cley Marshes days, man-made sea banks, and wildlife. The creation of nature reserves and conservation- acquisition of Blakeney Point, wrote and NT Blakeney Point to inspire a intensification of farming have changed the landscape led improvements has seen birds such as bittern and in 1923, ‘the two together are far new generation with a love of wild and challenged nature accordingly. avocet improve dramatically in numbers. Management more than twice as valuable as either places and the species which depend Avocets were pushed to extinction in the nineteenth of established reed beds has helped breeding marsh considered separately’. This principle on them. Today the National Trust century by marshland drainage. Spoonbill, whose numbers harriers and bearded tit numbers recover. Little egrets were prolific in during the reign of Henry VIII, are overwintering in Norfolk with the advent of milder of linking protected sites together so manages around 700 miles of Brit- declined rapidly in the last century as salt marshes were winters and otters are returning to waterways as a result of that the sum is more than the parts ish coastline and there are 47 Wildlife drained. In the 1900s the introduction of agrochemicals improvements to water quality and improved habitats. alone is one which is at the core of Trusts managing some 2000 nature in farming contributed to the demise of the marsh harrier. Amongst the tiniest of nature’s wonders, the dune tiger modern Wildlife Trusts’ vision for reserves. The north Norfolk coastline is continually influenced beetles and sea-aster mining bees survived the storm surge wildlife conservation. Let’s hope new developments by rising sea levels, and storm surges. Sand of last year as it rocked the shoreline of north Norfolk. In November 2013, thanks to the in 2015, such as the Simon Aspinall dunes, the natural line of sea defence, are embryonic in We can learn much from nature’s ability to adapt during most successful public appeal in its Wildlife Education Centre, ensure nature along this stretch of the UK’s coastline and their times of adversity. History shows us that by working in history, Norfolk Wildlife Trust was many more come to love and care for fragility is apparent during surging seas. partnership with the landscape we can protect our most able to extend its Cley Marshes na- wildlife and wild places and people Other areas of the shoreline are subject to coastal precious habitats and secure a positive outcome for the ture reserve through the acquisition continue to be inspired by our wild squeeze as sediment drift extends surrounding spits. future. of 143 acres of land to the east. This coastal landscapes. Breeding birds such as redshank and snipe are adversely land is currently being restored to be- affected by loss of extensive habitats. Incursion of the sea Carrie Carey is visitor experience manager, come ‘bigger, better and more joined David North is Head of People and and increased coastal disturbance has caused numbers of RSPB NW Norfolk Reserves up’ and between Blakeney Point and Wildlife at Norfolk Wildlife Trust. 8 HUMAN HISTORY NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015

Carmelite Friary, TF838427 c.1320 Open all year free A Norfolk Archaeological Trust site Access from the Coast Hopper bus or by bike around the Burnhams. Beautifully proportioned gatehouse with vaulted archway and an FIVE early example of flush flintwork. In the field behind are remains of the friary church founded by Sir William de Calthorpe. From here take the footpath up to St Margaret’s round towered church with commanding views over the Burn valley, an atmospheric interior and wineglass pulpit (1450) adorned with the Latin Doctors and GEMS donor portraits of John and Katherine Calthorpe. from west to east

The best way to discover North Norfolk is Old and Ringstead Down with the relevant OS 1:25000 Explorer TF689420 maps (nos 250, 251 and 252) and, of The park open on Thursdays, Ringstead Down all year free course, with a copy of Norfolk Parish Private with permissive access Access from the Coasthopper bus Treasures: North and West Norfolk. Decide Outstanding brass to Sir Roger Le Strange (1506) in Old Hunstanton where to go, work out a route and, using church, then a walk through the park where the Octagon features the indispensible Coasthopper bus to in Jeeves and the Impending Doom and through to Ringstead and a drink in the Gin Trap before exploring Ringstead Down, a sinuous get about, take to the green lanes and dry valley cut through the chalk. Managed by Norfolk Wildlife Trust, footpaths and stumble upon some gem this beautiful site it is home to a variety of chalk grassland flowers of medieval art in a country church or and butterflies. At the bottom head north along a track and back through the park. Total distance 5 miles – one of north Norfolk’s bluebells in a patch of ancient woodland. hidden jewels. Treasure hunting along the coast Peter Tolhurst lifts the lid on the Norfolk coast’s local riches

’ve always loved the country- ling Heath and the RSPB reserve at side from my time growing up Titchwell. Into this mix I have worked in East Kent in the 1950s but it references to place names, folk tales, was my old geography master literary and historical associations. Iwho first taught me how to interpret Few would question the inclusion the landscape, before I came across of Castle Rising or Houghton Hall or WG Hoskins’ pioneering work The Cley bird reserve. But what of those Making of the English Landscape while a minor features cherished by local student at Durham in the 1960s. Here people – the VR post box, the mile- I read back copies of Folklore and the stone and pub sign, the ancient oak / Justin Minns National Trust novels of Thomas Hardy and came to and wildflowers in a country church- admire the work of Paul Nash and the yard? These fragile monuments to a ‘pleasing decay’ of John Piper’s ruined forgotten world are an equally impor- churches. When I moved to Norfolk tant part of our collective inheritance.

some 40 years ago it was the discovery A random selection of the bizarre Point. Blakeney that Dorothy Wordsworth had walked and the beautiful on show along the with her brother in meadows at Forn- coast road – the thatched tin taber- cett that set me on a journey which nacle at Babingley, the AA box in a A rich maritime history ended with East Anglia: A Literary Pil- layby at , the Labours of grimage in 1995, a celebration of place the Months on the Norman font at North Norfolk has a proud maritime history and has brass to John Deynes (d.1527) at complete produced some of the nation’s greatest sea captains, none and the creative spirit. Burnham Deepdale and Mosley’s with mariner’s whistle. Judging by the handsome early more so than Admiral Lord Nelson. Although his birthplace Georgian customs house at Cley and the warehouses by the When I began work on Norfolk lightning strike on a cottage in Stiff- at has gone, the church and the pub quay in Blakeney the heyday of trade out of the Glaven ports Parish Treasures some 10 years ago key – all have a fascinating story to are still places of pilgrimage for Nelson enthusiasts. Two was in the C18. Further west at Thornham wealthy Lynn Wilhelmine Harrod’s Shell guide pro- tell. I only learnt after the publication C17 admirals – Sir John Narborough and the ill-fated Sir merchant George Hogge topped off his late Georgian hall vided a useful template. I particularly of Norfolk Parish Treasures that the clas- Cloudesley Shovell – were baptised in the tiny church at with an observatory from which to see his ships in the creek liked the idea that every single par- sical busts on the cottage in Burnham Cockthorpe while Shovell’s assistant, James Greeve, is buried while at Burnham Overy Staithe the granaries and maltings ish, however small, was worthy of a Overy Town reproduced on the front at Cley. The tomb of Captain Marryat (d.1848), author of a were bulging with grain from the Holkham estate. There few lines. Harrod’s guide concerned cover come from a temple in the park string of nautical adventures and inventor of a flag signalling were always risks and men like the customs officer William itself mainly with parish churches and at Holkham. There is still much to system for the merchant navy, stands in the shadow of Green, who according to his headstone in Old Hunstanton country houses and while they fea- learn so get out there and explore. Langham church. churchyard was murdered by smugglers in 1784, occasionally ture prominently in my own guide I All along the coast there are reminders of the commercial paid the ultimate price. The lifeboat station on Blakeney wanted to broaden the scope to in- Peter Tolhurst is an author, former trade that flourished here from the middle ages – the point and the record of lives saved by the Brancaster lifeboat clude treasures like the Snettisham conservation officer and historic undercroft of a C14 warehouse in Blakeney, the graffiti in on display in the church are reminders that the coast with its gold torcs and wildlife sites like Kel- building consultant. the church here and on the choir stalls at Salthouse and the creeks and sandbars has always been treacherous. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015 HUMAN HISTORY 9

Shell Museum, Glandford TG044415 c.1900 Open Easter to end of October. For details go to shellmuseum.org.uk Private trust Glandford is on a bus route and within easy cycling distance from Blakeney and Cley Built by Sir Alfred Jodrell to display his collection of exotic treasures. The most impressive exhibit is a 5m long embroidery ‘Panorama of the Norfolk Coast’ (c.1935) by the fisherman artist John Craske. From here a beautiful 3 mile walk along the Glaven, through the park to Bayfield Hall and up through ancient woodland before winding back down to the Art Cafe in Glandford – just a perfect day.

Warham Camp, Warham Park, Upper Sheringham TF944408 TG138413 Iron Age Early 19th century Open all year free Open all year free Private with public access National Trust Accessible by bike via green lanes from Wells-next-the Sea Accessible on foot via the Coast Path or Weybourne station on the North Norfolk Railway A circular earthwork beside the river with well preserved double ditch and ramparts. The most dramatic archaeological site Landscaped by Humphrey Repton, his favourite design with in north Norfolk. The best time to visit is in early summer when the sweeping views down to the hall and the sea beyond. Waymarked site is covered in chalk grassland flowers and a profusion of chalkhill walks through the woods and the park, stopping at the gazebo blue butterflies. Don’t miss the Three Horseshoes, a village pub for breathtaking coastal views, and on to the cliffs at Weybourne refreshingly plain and simple. which in spring are awash with sea pinks, butterflies and the sound of skylarks thanks again to the National Trust. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2015 LOCAL HISTORY 11

Discover wartime history at Langham Dome Kate Faire on the fascinating mand, and began as a satellite airfield to Bir- cham Newton - of which more can be discov- restoration of a local landmark ered at their Memorial Project (www.rafbnmp. org.uk). Later in the War, Langham became a he Dome, situated on the edge of station in its own right. As the Dome shows, former RAF Langham, is an ex- RAF missions from Langham played a sig- traordinary building. Built in 1942/ nificant part in the anti-shipping operations of 43, it used cutting edge technology Coastal Command along the Dutch, German forT anti-aircraft gunnery training; a skill that and southern Scandinavian coasts. Consider- was vital to the defence of Britain in those able work was also conducted in air-sea rescue. dark days of war and indeed beyond. Called But in addition, during and after the war pilots a dome teacher, in today’s language we’d call based at Langham played an important role in it a simulator. And in 1943 it represented a anti-aircraft artillery training, towing targets for great step forward. With sound, and moving the anti-aircraft practice ranges at nearby Stiff- images projected onto the curved inside wall key and Weybourne. Instruction in the Dome of the Dome, a ‘virtual reality’ was created in provided one type of training, but much work which troops could learn to ‘shoot’ down air- involved live firing at targets, towed behind air-- craft - without so much as firing a live-round. craft. And of course recruits who trained in thee Unlike so many other domes, Langham Dome Dome could go to Stiffkey to try out their neww was not forgotten. In 1986 it became a Sched- skills. Today’s Muckleburgh Collection is basedd 0DNLQJ uled Ancient Monument – the youngest in on the site of Weybourne camp (www.muck-- ontoo the curved inner wall and make for an Norfolk at that time! Awarded generous grants leburgh.co.uk). Details of the light anti-aircraftt KLVWRU\ atatmospheric and informative visit. You can from the Heritage Lottery Fund, English Her- range are given at Rescue Wooden Boats’ visi- tetest your own skills too, with our interactive Looking for fresh blueberries or crab? Planning a walk itage and others, its restoration was completed tor centre, located in the old Officers’ Mess at and a picnic? From arts and crafts to walks, from dudummy training gun and original target films. in 2014 and a successful first season followed. Stiffkey (www.rescuewoodenboats.com). beaches for dogs to bus options, a special map on the AndAn there’s much more to discover too. As we One of the great advantages of a visit to On visiting Langham Dome you can find Norfolk Coast Partnership website has all you’ll need saysay about Langham Dome: small building; big the Dome is that it provides so many links to out about the Dome, RAF Langham, Lang- to plot your discovery of the area. The interactive sstory!to other sites in Norfolk, revealing the role the ham’s links with Stiffkey and Weybourne, and map allows you to select what you’re interested in area played in the defence of Britain in the what life was like for locals, in a fascinating finding out more about to tailor your choices and the LanghamLa Dome is open from April to October rich layers of information about loc 1940s and 1950s. series of films narrated by Stephen Fry. As al businesses in 202015. See our website for opening times and RAF Langham was part of Coastal Com- with the original dome, these are projected 21 categories are regularly updated. eentryn prices: langhamdome.org www.norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk/activemap/

Charity rescue wooden boats at Stiffkey New beginnings Wendy Pritchard on a new at Brancaster volunteer-run museum It’s a year since the tidal surge that caused t their boatyards in Stiffkey, George flooding and devastation to so much of the and David Hewitt use wooden boat Norfolk coast and now the team at Brancaster craftsmanship of the highest order: Activity Centre are excited to be opening their traditional methods that are hundreds doors once again. And it hasn’t just had a lick Aof years old, probably starting when copper was of paint either, but a whole new re-fit. first used. Fishing boats are repaired from larch As of June, the centre will once again offer a host of outdoor activities for school children planks on steamed and wedged oak frames held to enjoy during their stay. Sleeping a total of together with copper rivets. Lifeboats are restored 48 in newly refurbished rooms located in the using steam-curved mahogany planks formed picturesque harbour of Brancaster Staithe, it’s into slim and strong double diagonal structures the perfect base to explore the outdoors. And on oak frames. with a team of experienced instructors on hand The local whelk boats are all 26ft by 10ft to share what is special about this part of the double ended clinker built boats of larch on oak north Norfolk coast, every day is packed full of frames, and usually with oak top strakes. They beauty and adventure. are bigger and have higher freeboards than the And you really are spoilt for choice. crab boats (usually 20ft by 8ft and also clinker Beautiful Brancaster beach is within walking built larch on oak frames) as they went further distance. At high tide you can step out of the afield for their catch, often up to forty miles from Centre and into a kayak to discover the winding shore. The crab boats stayed closer inshore and creeks and at low tide try a coastal safari – were launched from the beach through the waves a fun filled muddy adventure across the for each tide. The whelkers were kept moored saltmarsh. or alongside in the harbour. They were all open and a mussel flat, all needing restoration and She also served at Wells and Sheringham. The re-opened centre also welcomes adult boats with no wheelhouses so life aboard was waiting their turn. This year she will make the voyage back by and family groups – with the option to book very exposed. The space was used for the catch The first to be restored, with the help of a sea to Dunkirk in 2015 for the 75th anniversary, the entire Centre for self-catering holidays. not for the comfort of the crew. The whelk and Heritage Lottery Grant, is lifeboat Lucy Lavers, calling in on the way so that the public (espe- Why not eat at one of the local pubs and crab pots would be stacked up and then baited built in 1940 for Aldeburgh lifeboat station. Her cially young people) can see her and learn about cafés serving local food, or enjoy a BBQ in and laid in shanks. very first service was the Dunkirk operation to her history. She is an attractive, yacht-like boat the garden? It’s the perfect spot for activities such Like their wooden boats, these fishermen evacuate troops from the Normandy beaches. with a single engine and sails and will have both as sailing, walking and kite surfing; with the (who were also the lifeboatmen) in their late historical and emotional impact when she takes added bonus of the Norfolk Coast Path and eighties are disappearing together with their sto- to the seas again. After Dunkirk she will give RESCUE WOODEN BOATS EVENTS Coasthopper bus service passing the door. ries of a way of life which has changed beyond all pre-booked trips afloat from Wells. Not to mention some of Norfolk’s finest recognition. To conserve this maritime heritage, April 11, Wells Re-launch of Lucy Lavers reserves only a stone’s throw Rescue Wooden Boats was launched in July 2011 Early May, Wells Departure for Dunkirk Visitor and Education Centre opening times away. to restore some examples of these boats back to May 8-10, Lowestoft Lucy Lavers on display 2015: March to October inclusive Saturdays and To find out more about staying at use on the water and to capture, for future gener- End May, Wells Lucy Lavers return from Dunkirk Sundays 10 – 4. At other times for groups of Brancaster Activity Centre call the team ations the stories and the skills involved in build- June 6, Wells Homecoming celebration people by arrangement. Contact info@ for a chat on 01485 210719 or visit ing and using them. Now the charity has seven Summer, Wells Pre-booked heritage trips afloat rescuewoodenboats.com 07920 760238 nationaltrust.org.uk/brancaster boats: one lifeboat, two whelkers, three crab boats rescuewoodenboats.com NORFOLKNORFOLK COCOASTAST GGUARDIANUARDIAN 20201515 WALKINGWALKING 1133

WIN two places on What’s afoot on the a guided walk of your choice

Norfolk Coast Path? To celebrate the launch of the walking festival Norfolk Trails are giving away two free places on the guided walk of your choice. Please answer the following question and send to [email protected] together with your name, It’s an exciting time for the national trail with historic and archaeological features contact details and your chosen festival walk, by 15th September 2015. The plus various events specifically for winner will be drawn at random and notified by e-mail. lots happening on and around the route, as families. The festival will also incorpo- Helen Timson and Louisa Lloyd explain rate a marathon taking place along the What is the length of the new section of the Norfolk Norfolk Coast Path on Halloween for Coast Path National Trail ( to Weybourne)? he fabulous walking op- both runners and walkers - fancy dress portunities along the north optional! east Norfolk coast are show- All walks/events will need to be this area further on Norfolk Trails cased this year in the area’s booked in advance, charges apply. by connecting with and More ways to walk firstT ever walking festival. Norfolk Trails are also delivering an Weaver’s Way. Paston Way runs for 22 There is so much to celebrate; last exciting Coastal Communities Fund miles between Cromer and North December saw the official opening project called Explore More Coast. Walsham and also links in with the If you have limited mobility, for example because you have a child of Norfolk’s first stretch of England The project aims to showcase the bril- Norfolk Coast Path at , in a pushchair or use a wheelchair Coast Path, from Sea Palling to Wey- liant walking opportunities in the area Bacton and . Weavers’ Way yourself, then the Norfolk Coast bourne (see below). covered by our first two stretches of runs for 61 miles from Cromer to Partnership has developed a series Cromer (and Aylsham) have re- . Great Yarmouth through north Nor- of walks with extra information: ceived national recognition and ac- There will be opportunities for folk and the Broads. http://tinyurl.com/8asgp4u creditation as Walkers are Welcome tourism businesses to get involved and towns, paving the way for others in find out how they can benefit from Walking festival: For itinerary of Interested in the lesser known areas? the area. being near the trail. We’d love to hear walks together with details on how If you want great circular The Norfolk Walking Festival from any who are interested in being to book: norfolktrails.co.uk Twitter: @ walks with public transport, try some (North East Norfolk) will take place involved or anyone thinking of setting NorfolkTrails Facebook: /norfolktrails of our ten Explore More walks, all from 17 October to 1 November and up a new tourism business in the area. norfolktrails.co.uk carefully planned with stops for will involve guided and led walks. Email us at [email protected]. nationaltrail.co.uk/peddarsway refreshment and circular routes to Topics range from the special plants uk and mention Explore More Coast. Twitter https://twitter.com/ really see the area: and wildlife of the area, to fascinating Don’t forget you can also explore NorfolkTrails http://tinyurl.com/chkho8c Norfolk’s England Coast Path Norfolk’s first stretch of England Coast Path was two years There is also a change to the Norfolk Coast Path in the making by Natural England and Norfolk County between Sheringham and Cromer. Previously, the trail Council. headed inland from Beeston Bump, up through the woods The new section runs for 25 miles from Weybourne to to Roman Camp, before heading back to the coast at Sea Palling. Originally starting at Hunstanton and ending in Cromer. Now, the Norfolk Coast Path follows the new Cromer, the Norfolk Coast Path now extends an impressive England Coast Path route and so keeps closer to the sea. 63 miles from Hunstanton to Sea Palling – with more The route to Roman Camp is being made into a 7.5 mile planned. Norfolk’s Stretch 2 of the England Coast Path will circular walk. continue east around the coast from Sea Palling all the way Together with the , the Norfolk Coast to the county boundary at Hopton on Sea, taking in some Path forms the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path fantastic parts of the coast. It’s anticipated to open later in National Trail. 2015 with stretches 3 and 4 following in the next couple of Helen Timson and Louisa Lloyd are Norfolk Trails years. Officers (development)