European Bulletin of Himalayan Research (EBHR) Was Founded by the Late Richard Burghart in 1991 and Has Appeared Twice Yearly Ever Since
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27 Autumn 2004 EBHR EUROPEAN BULLETIN OF HIMALAYAN RESEARCH European Bulletin of Himalayan Research The European Bulletin of Himalayan Research (EBHR) was founded by the late Richard Burghart in 1991 and has appeared twice yearly ever since. It is a product of collaboration and edited on a rotating basis between France (CNRS), Germany (South Asia Institute) and the UK (SOAS). Since October 2002 onwards, the German editorship has been run as a collective, presently including William S. Sax (managing editor), Martin Gaenszle, Elvira Graner, András Höfer, Axel Michaels, Joanna Pfaff-Czarnecka, Mona Schrempf and Claus Peter Zoller. We take the Himalayas to mean, the Karakorum, Hindukush, Ladakh, southern Tibet, Kashmir, north-west India, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan, and north-east India. The subjects we cover range from geography and economics to anthropology, sociology, philology, history, art history, and history of religions. In addition to scholarly articles, we publish book reviews, reports on research projects, information on Himalayan archives, news of forthcoming conferences, and funding opportunities. Manuscripts submitted are subject to a process of peer- review. Address for correspondence and submissions: European Bulletin of Himalayan Research, c/o Dept. of Anthropology South Asia Institute, Heidelberg University Im Neuenheimer Feld 330 D-69120 Heidelberg / Germany e-mail: [email protected]; fax: (+49) 6221 54 8898 For subscription details ( see: http://ebhr.sai.uni-heidelberg.de) or contact by e-mail: [email protected] Contributing editors: France: Marie Lecomte-Tilouine, Pascale Dollfus, Anne de Sales Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, UPR 299 7, rue Guy Môquet 94801 Villejuif cedex France e-mail: [email protected] Great Britain: Michael Hutt, David Gellner, Ben Campbell School of Oriental and African Studies Thornhaugh Street, Russell Square London WC1H 0XG U.K. e-mail: [email protected] Netherlands: Mark Turin Himalayan Languages Project, Silodam 355 1013 AW Amsterdam Netherlands e-mail: [email protected] This issue of the Bulletin is published from Kathmandu, in collaboration with Social Science Baha (http://www.himalassociation.org/baha) EBHR 27 Autumn 2004 ARTICLES Working with Buddhists 5 Alexander W. Macdonald A Tale of Two Temples: Culture, capital, and community in 11 Mustang, Nepal Sienna Craig Zombie Slayers in a “Hidden Valley” (sbas yul): Sacred 37 geography and political organisation in the Nepal-Tibet borderland Francis Khek Gee Lim Realities and Images of Nepal’s Maoists after the Attack on Beni 67 Kiyoko Ogura CORRESPONDENCE, ANNOUNCEMENTS, REPORTS Research Report: The Tibetan Dialect of Lende (Kyirong): A 128 grammatical description with historical annotations Brigitte Huber Conference Report on Rituals of Divine Kingship in the Central 130 Himalayas William S. Sax BOOK REVIEWS Ina Rösing: Trance, Besessenheit und Amnesie bei den 134 Schamanen der Changpa-Nomaden im ladakhischen Changthang [Trance, possession and amnesia among the shamans of the Changpa nomads in Changthang of Ladakh] András Höfer, Heidelberg Daniela Berti and Gilles Tarabout (eds.): Terra, Territorio e 137 Società nel Mondo Indiano Chiara Letizia, Rome William S. Sax: Dancing the Self: Personhood and performance 141 in the Pāṇḍav Līlā of Garhwal Stuart Blackburn, London David N. Gellner (ed.): Resistance and the State: Nepalese 146 experiences John Whelpton, Hong Kong Charlotte E. Hardman: Other Worlds: Notions of self and 153 emotion among the Lohorung Rai Mark Turin, Ithaca Michael Hutt: Unbecoming Citizens: Culture, nationhood, and 156 the flight of refugees from Bhutan Karl-Heinz Krämer, Bad Honnef Olivia Aubriot : L’eau, Miroir d’une Société. Irrigation paysanne 160 au Népal central Dietrich Schmidt-Vogt, Bangkok Harka Gurung: Social demography of Nepal, Census 2001 165 David Seddon, Norwich Editorial In a previous editorial I took the opportunity to thank Martin Gaenszle for his assistance in editing the EBHR. In this issue, I would like to thank Mark Turin, who has tirelessly supported the Bulletin for several years. It doesn't matter whether the Bulletin is being published in London, Paris, or Heidelberg – Dr. Turin is always urging good scholars to contribute, making valuable suggestions, and helping to review articles. Most recently, he has offered his considerable services in helping to digitalize and archive past issues. For his continuing efforts, we are very thankful. In our last issue (no. 25/26: pp. 208-213) Ben Campbell reviewed Kathryn S. March's If Each Comes Halfway and Brigitte Steinmann's Les Enfants du Singe et de la Démone. Unfortunately, the reference to the second book has been omitted on p. 2 of the table of contents of the same issue. We apologize. William S. Sax Managing Editor Notes on Contributors Sienna Craig is a Ph.D. candidate in cultural and medical anthropology at Cornell University. She has conducted fieldwork in Nepal and Tibet since 1993, and is also the co-founder of a non-profit organization, Drokpa (www.drokpa.org), that funds grassroots development initiatives in the Himalaya and Tibet. Her dissertation research focuses on issues of professionalization and identity among practitioners of Tibetan medicine in Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region, China. Francis Khek Gee Lim recently completed his Ph.D. in anthropology at SOAS, London. His principal research interests include anthropological aspects of modernization, tourism, AIDS, and Christian communities in the Himalaya. He conducted fieldwork in Nepal on the cultural conceptions of the “good life” and is now embarking on a two-year research project on the theme “religion and globalization” at the Asia Research Institute of the National University of Singapore. Kiyoko Ogura is a freelance journalist living in Nepal since 1993. Nepalese politics and history, with particular emphasis on the Maoist movement, have been her principal interests. After having worked as a magazine editor in Tokyo, she came to Nepal to write a book on the 1990 people’s movement. It was published in Japanese, Nepali and English (Kathmandu Spring. Lalitpur: Himal Books 2001. ISBN 99933-13-09-2). She also lists numerous articles in Japanese newspapers, magazines and websites. Working with Buddhists Alexander W. Macdonald Editorial note. – Alexander William Macdonald is a doyen of Tibetan and Nepalese studies. Since 1949 he has been living in France where he held, until his retirement, the positions of a directeur de recherche at the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique and professor at the Laboratoire d’Ethnologie et de Sociologie Comparative of the Université de Paris in Nanterre. Both as the author of an impressive number of publications and as an influential teacher, Macdonald was and still is a rich source of inspiration and encouragement for many of his younger colleagues in and outside France. Educating a new generation of scientists who have successfully combined anthropology with philological studies is just one of his lasting accomplishments. The following article is an extract from a draft of his autobiography. A Sikh friend in Delhi, who is active in the entourage of H.H. the Dalai Lama, asked me to explain to her how it happened that I became interested in and involved with Buddhism. This was my answer: I was born in Scotland, near Dundee, in 1923. Up till the age of 18, I had practically no contact with Buddhists or Buddhism. On Sundays my parents attended fairly regularly the local Presbyterian Church and were friends of the minister. Around the age of 13, I was sent as a boarder to a Public School in England and there I attended the Church of England chapel services daily. At the age of 15 or so, it was customary to be "confirmed"; this little ceremony entitled one to participate later in Holy Communion. Both in England and in Scotland I refused to be "confirmed" despite some parental pressure. The mythological aspects of Christian theology were to me most distasteful and if, at that stage in my life, I had acquired any beliefs these seemed to change almost every week. Since September 1939 Britain had been at war with Germany. As soon as I was old enough, I volunteered for service in the Indian Army. I wanted to travel and from what I had read, India seemed to be a fascinating country: I wanted to experience at first hand other forms of warfare than those which consisted in being bombed in Britain by Germans. So, in 1942, I was sent to India as an officer cadet at Bangalore. There we were worked very hard physically and had little leisure in which to speculate on Man's place in the Universe. We had little contact with Indian civilians European Bulletin of Himalayan Research 27: 5-10 (2004) 6 EBHR 27 outside the cantonment; but we had Urdu lessons with a munshi (teacher) at 6.30 a.m. several days a week. I began to read whatever I could find concerning contemporary Indian politics and was fascinated by the activities of Dr. Ambedkar. After six months' intensive training at Bangalore, I became, in January 1943, a Second Lieutenant in the 10th Gurkha Rifles whose Regimental Centre was, in those days, situated at Alhilal in the Kangra Valley. I found this part of India very beautiful and liked the climate. As we were foot- soldiers there were long training marches across the countryside and through its villages and gradually I came to know more about the functioning of local Indian society. There were also daily lessons in Nepali (Khaskura); sometimes it was the British Colonel commanding the centre who taught the classes. Our recruits were mainly Rais and Limbus, hill peasants from eastern Nepal. In time I began to find their conversation more interesting than that of my fellow-officers. The only Indian officer in the centre was the Medical Doctor. A month's leave in July in Lahul brought me in contact near Kyelang with the first Tibetans I had ever seen.