A Travel Guide to Camberwell 1 Allow us to introduce you to our C a m b e r w e l l A – Z 02 Camberwell Travel Guide – the essential companion for those in search of the C a m b e r w e l l H i s t o r i e s 16 A Brief History 17 real SE5. A Healthy History 18 An Artistic History 20 In this guide you’ll find beautiful parks, A Literary History 23 wonderful cakes, elegant clothing, A Musical History 25 intoxicating drinks and excellent coffee, An Entertaining History 28 as well as an internationally renowned Fortean Camberwell 31 Rare Doings at Camberwell 38 art college. There are galleries, ghosts, a graveyard, a Turkish spa, a Greek C o n t e m p o r a r y C a m b e r w e l l 42 Cathedral and Britain’s first purpose- Camberwell Green 43 built mental health hospital. Robert Boules & Debate 48 20 Things To Do In Camberwel 50 Browning was born here, Michael Caine Phileas Dogg’s Guide to Camberwell 53 grew up here, Charlie Chaplin worked Pub Crawl 56 here, Dan Leno lived here and John Ruskin A Gourmet Guide 59 left in disgust when the railways ruined Café Culture 63 A Young Person’s Guide 64 his view. A Guide to Camberwell’s Poundshops 68 It’s an unlikely mixture perhaps, Shopping in Camberwell 70 Where to Stay 73 but it’s what we think of when we think of 36 Reasons to Love Camberwell 74 Camberwell. We hope it will inspire you to Local Resources 78 explore the area further, whether you’re a local residents or a visitor to the area. Camberwell Directory 80 Map 86 Transport Information 88 2 Camberwell A–Z Illustrations by Amy Pennington 2 3 –Z A CAMBERWELL 4 5 –Z A CAMBERWELL 6 7 –Z A CAMBERWELL 8 9 –Z A CAMBERWELL 10 11 –Z A CAMBERWELL 12 13 –Z A CAMBERWELL 14 15 Camberwell A Brief History of Camberwell Histories Camberwell’s story is one of how a small Surrey to London. In 1871 the service attracted farming community became engulfed by the competition from tram companies and by the great metropolis of London. Today, Camberwell 1900s aas many as 250 trams passed through is so much a part of the city that it’s hard to Camberwell every hour on 14 different routes. believe the area once had its own mill and By the beginning of the 20th century, supported itself from the surrounding fields – or Camberwell had become so over-crowded that that is traded with London by supplying the city philanthropic organisations began to look at with fresh fruit and vegetables and milk. how to improve housing in the area. In 1910 the From a farming village, Camberwell became Peabody Trust built flats by Camberwell Green an exclusive Georgian retreat, attracting visitors followed by the development of Samuel Lewis because of its reputation for clean air and Trust Buildings in 1915. Further redevelopment healthy waters – as well as improvements in was necessary following World War II when air transport. The most significant of these was the attacks destroyed 5,650 houses in the area. construction of new bridges over the Thames to Today, Camberwell has become well and bypass the congestion of London Bridge, which truly part of London – an inner-city area with a in turn led to the construction of a new local road diverse population. Elegant Georgian properties network. Camberwell New Road, for example, sit alongside council estates, giving the place was opened in 1818 to link Camberwell with its eclectic character. Throw into the mix a large Vauxhall Bridge, which was built in 1816. teaching hospital, one of Europe’s leading mental As London’s transport infrastructure health research institutions and the students of expanded, Camberwell developed into an inner Camberwell College of Art and you have a truly city suburb. By 1800 two firms ran coaches 7 unique part of London. times a day from Camberwell to Gracechurch Local resident Stephen Wilmot has created Street in the City to accommodate commuters. an interesting self-guided heritage walk – ‘from This was a relatively expensive form of transport Camberwell Green through genteel back streets as tolls had to be paid. In the mid 1800s the to the South London Gallery.’ It takes about 2 horse-drawn bus was developed and the first hours to complete and you can find full details buses came to Camberwell in 1851. on his website Rex and the City: In 1862 a railway line was extended to Camberwell, followed by a station at Denmark W: stephenwilmot.com/p/walk-into- Hill, enabling less wealthy people to commute camberwells-history.html 16 17 Soon after its opening, it was requisitioned as in psychiatry, psychology, basic and clinical A Healthy History a military hospital during WW1 and treated over neuroscience. It is the most cited research 75,000 wounded soldiers during the course of centre in its field outside the US – the second It began when the first Londoners decided that the three years. It is now one of London’s largest most cited in the world. teaching hospitals as well as providing general Its origins date back to 1896, when the waters of the Camber Well were a remedy for life’s ills. healthcare to the London boroughs of Lambeth, eminent neurologist Dr Frederick Mott put Ever since, Camberwell has been a cradle for medical Southwark and Lewisham – and a range of forward proposals for the then novel concept discovery and innovation, particularly in the area specialist services for patients across south of university level training courses in subjects east England and beyond. King’s is recognised related to psychiatry. However, it was not of mental health and well-being. It’s no wonder the nationally and internationally for its work in liver until 1914 that Mott’s idea began to bear fruit Metropolitan Borough of Camberwell adopted the motto disease and transplantation, neurosciences, when the London County Council agreed to ‘All’s Well’ when they were granted the right to a coat cardiac services, blood cancers, foetal medicine, establish the hospital in Denmark Hill with the stroke and major trauma. assistance of a generous donation from Dr of arms in 1901. Henry Maudsley (see above). CAMBERWELL HISTORIES The Maudsley Hospital Within ten years, the associated Maudsley The Maudsley is England’s first purpose-built Hospital Medical School had come to be officially psychiatric hospital for treatment and research. recognised by the University of London and the It dates from 1907, when Dr Henry Maudsley new school retained this title until 1948 when it Healing waters As the metropolis expaned between 1740 offered London County Council £30,000 became a founder member of the newly formed and 1840, the fields became streets and (subsequently increased to £40,000) to help British Postgraduate Medical Federation and The waters of the Camber Well were said to terraces. The health giving springs and wells fund a new hospital that aimed to find effective changed its name to the Institute of Psychiatry. be rich in iron and mineral salts, with a beneficial became forgotten in all but the place name. treatments for neuroses, mild forms of psychosis effect on any number of ailments. Springs However, in one of those curious threads of and dependency disorders, rather than simply Largactyl Shuffle and wells are known to have existed on the history, the neighbourhood itself remained vital providing confinement and ‘asylum’. All patients southern slope of Denmark Hill, especially If you’re interested in finding out more about to the health of Londoners. were admitted on a voluntary basis – although around Grove Park. the history of health in Camberwell why not join a specific Act of Parliament had to be obtained As a result of the springs, there are suggestions CoolTan Art’s Largactyl Shuffle? CoolTan Arts The Camberwell in 1915 to allow the institution to accept that Camberwell developed as a hamlet where believe mental well-being is enhanced by the voluntary patients. people from the City of London were expelled influence today power of creativity. It’s a charity run by and for By the time the hospital was built, World War I when they had life threatening diseases like Camberwell has become home to some of adults with mental distress. had broken out and the building was requisitioned leprosy, for treatment by the church and the clean, the world’s most influential medical research Their Largactyl Shuffle monthly walks aim to as a war hospital, not opening as a mental health healing waters from the local wells. An article, organisations. Close to where Londoners took break stigma around mental health, promote resource until 1923. Although the hospital initially written by Prosser in 1827, states: ‘it has been the healing waters of the Camber Well, three positive mental health / well being, encourage struggled to secure funding from the Medical conjectured that the well might have been famous leading medical organisations – the Institute people to exercise, meet new people and learn Research Council, in 1938 the Rockefeller for some medicinal virtues and might have of Psychiatry, the Maudsley and Kings College more about their local history. If you’re interested Foundation made a substantial award to support occasioned the dedication of (St Giles) church Hospital – are now in residence. in London’s hidden stories, the Largactyl Shuffle research and education and the Maudsley has to this patron saint of cripples’. Walk will provide you with the unique opportunity been an internationally renowned centre for By the 18th century, Camberwell’s healing King’s College Hospital to discover South London’s mysteries and the research ever since.