Mountaineering Ireland Summer Alpine Meet 2012
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4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
Zermatter Breithorn 4164 M Und Allalinhorn 4027M 2 X 4000 in Nur 2 Tagen
Bergschule.ch Alpinschule Tödi CH-7165 Breil/Brigels Telefon +41 55 283 43 82 [email protected] bergschule.ch Zermatter Breithorn 4164 m und Allalinhorn 4027m 2 x 4000 in nur 2 Tagen Das Team der Alpinschule Tödi heisst Sie im wundervollen Gebiet der vergletscherten Gipfel rund um Zermatt und Saas Fee ganz herzlich willkommen. Wir freuen uns, mit Ihnen das Erlebnis dieses einmalig schönen und doch relativ einfachen Hochtouren- Weekends zu erleben. Folgende Infos möchten Ihnen Vorfreude auf Ihre Bergtage aufkommen lassen und Ihnen eine optimale Vorbereitung bieten. Treffpunkt: In Zermatt um 08.15 Uhr bei der Touristinfo (Ausgangs Bahnhof). Verpflegt und startbereit Programm: 1. Tag: Individuelle Anreise und Treff mit unserem Bergführer. Wir empfehlen, bereits am Vorabend anzureisen, damit Sie am Samstag nicht allzu früh aus den Federn müssen und sich etwas an die ungewohnte grosse Höhe akklimatisieren können. Vom Treffunkt aus wandern wir gemeinsam zur Talstation der Klein Matterhorn Seilbahn. Hier erreichen wir ganz locker schwebend bereits 3800 m. Nun beginnt der Aufstieg aus eigener Kraft auf das Breithorn 4164 m mit erhebender Aussicht – der imposante Blick von hier bringt uns das Gebiet der Monte Rosa und der vielen weiteren berühmten Viertausender näher. Aufstieg 350 Höhenmeter in ca. 2 Std. und Abstieg über die gleiche Route zurück zur Seilbahn und hinunter nach Zermatt. Weiterfahrt nach Herbriggen in unsere Unterkunft, das gemütliche Berghotel Bergfreund, wo Rosie uns schon herzlich erwartet. Hier essen und übernachten wir um am nächsten Tag ausgeruht nach Saas Grund zu wechseln. 2. Tag: Voller Tatendrang und erfüllt von den Bergeindrücken des gestrigen Tages fahren wir gestärkt nach ausgiebigem Frühstück nach Saas Fee und zu der Felskinnbahn Seilbahnen und der Metro Alpin-Standseilbahn und gelangen leicht und locker nach Mittelallalin. -
Allalinhorn (4027 M) Hohlaubgrat
Allalinhorn (4027 m) Hohlaubgrat Hochtour | Walliser Alpen 1050 Hm | insg. 06:30 Std. | Schwierigkeit (5 von 6) Während der Allalinhorn-Normalweg von der Bergstation der Métro alpin fast jede bergsteigerische Schwierigkeit und leider ebenso auch viel von seinem Reiz verloren hat, ist die Tour über den Hohlaubgrat landschaftlich großartig und auch technisch durchaus anspruchsvoll. © Tourentipp.com 2021 Seite 1/3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Schwierigkeit Kondition Gefahrenpotenzial Landschaft Frequentierung Anfahrt: Von Deutschland aus über verschiedene Anfahrtswege ins Rhônetal nach Visp. Mit dem Auto von Visp über Stalden (bis hier auch mit der Bahn) ins Saastal nach Saas Fee (1803m; rund 20 km von Visp). Ausgangspunkt: Saas Fee (1803 m) Route: Hüttenzustieg: Entweder gänzlich zu Fuß von Saas Fee (Chalbermatten) Richtung Plattjen zur Galenalp (P. 2054). Ab hier rechts halten (unter der Seilbahn), immer unter Mittaghorn und Egginer vorbei und zuletzt in südöstlicher Richtung zum Egginer Joch. Hierher auch auf kurzem, ebenen Fußweg von der Mittelstation Felskinn nach Benutzung der Gondelbahn von Saas Fee. Vom Egginer Joch weiter eben nach Südosten auf einer deutlichen Rampe und zuletzt über einen kleinen Aufschwung hinauf zur Britanniahütte (von Saas Fee gut 1200 Hm / 4 Std.; von der Mittelstation Felskinn 50Hm / 40 Min.) Gipfelroute: Von der Britanniahütte führt ein Steig in südwestlicher Richtung abwärts, bis man bei etwa 2950 Meter den Hohlaubgletscher betritt. Nun zunächst in westlicher Richtung hinauf, an einigen Spalten vorbei, bis man sich oberhalb von 3025 Meter mehr südlich wendet und nördlich von P. 3105 zum Blockgrat gelangt. Immer über diesen Grat im Firn oder bei aperen Verhältnissen in leichter Blockkletterei (Vorsicht vor losen Blöcken) hinauf bis zu einem Gratbuckel (etwa 3530 m) und über diesen hinweg nach kurzem Abstieg in einen Sattel. -
Tour De Monte Rosa
TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Complete the Tour de Monte Rosa, a superb Alpine trekking holiday around Switzerland's highest peak Complete a full 9-day walking circuit around the Monte Rosa massif Walk hut-to-hut and overnight in a succession of atmospheric Alpine refuges Be immersed in stunning Swiss and Italian Alpine scenery, with views of the Matterhorn Experience one of Europe's finest walking holidays - an undiscovered gem HOLIDAY CODE TMR Switzerland, Trek & Walk, 11 Days 5 nights mountain hut / refuge, 5 nights hotel, 10 breakfasts, 10 dinners, max group size: 10, 9 days trekking, max altitude - 3317m VIEW DATES, PRICES & BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY HERE www.keadventure.com UK: +44(0) 17687 73966 US (toll-free): 1-888-630-4415 PAGE 2 TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Introduction Classic walking holiday adventure trekking around Monte Rosa in the Swiss Alps. One of the finest long-distance trekking opportunities in Alpine Europe is the walking circuit of the huge, many-summitted massif of Monte Rosa (4634m) in the Swiss Alps. Starting out from the picturesque Alpine village of Saas Fee, our walking follows a clockwise direction, crossing from Switzerland then trekking into Italy and then back again. This undiscovered gem of a walking route around Monte Rosa keeps to the high ground as much as possible, close up beneath towering Alpine peaks, crossing airy passes and encountering snowfields and even walking over glaciers. En route, there are stunning views of many of the big peaks of the Alps, such as the Dom (4545m) Weisshorn (4596m) and particularly memorable Matterhorn (4478m). -
Im Hochgebirge Immer Wieder Schnee, Zwei Tödliche Lawinenunfälle
SLF Wochenbericht www.slf.ch Juli 2014: Im Hochgebirge immer wieder Schnee, zwei tödliche Lawinenunfälle Der Juli 2014 war einer der trübsten und nassesten seitdem das Wetter in der Schweiz beobachtet wird (siehe auch Klimabulletin MeteoSchweiz). Während die Flüsse hoch gingen und es gebietsweise zu Überschwemmungen kam, fiel im Hochgebirge, besonders oberhalb von 3500 m, immer wieder Schnee. In den niederschlagsreichsten Gebieten, wie etwa im Berner Oberland, fielen im Juli in Gipfelregionen gesamthaft mehrere Meter Schnee. Wegen der wiederholten grossen Schneefälle im Hochgebirge wurden fünf Lawinenbulletins ausgegeben - so viel wie nie in einem Juli in den letzten 10 Jahren. Die Schneefälle führten auch zu verhältnismässig grosser Lawinenaktivität (Abbildung 1), und zur Monatsmitte zu zwei tödlichen Lawinenunfällen im südlichen Wallis. Abb. 1: Beachtlich grosse Lockerschneelawinen lösten sich auf rund 3800 m in der SE-Flanke des Weissmies (4017 m, Zwischbergen/VS; Foto: P. Schoch; 31.07.2014). Wetter, Schnee und Lawinen Nachfolgend werden vier Perioden beschrieben, welche in Abbildung 2 markiert sind: 1. Unbeständiger Monatsbeginn 2. Viel Neuschnee im Hochgebirge 3. Rückkehr des Hochsommers, aber schwere Lawinenunfälle 4. Immer wieder nass mit viel Schnee im Hochgebirge Abb. 2: Verlauf der Nullgradgrenze im Juli. Abgesehen von der kurzen Hitzeperiode (Periode 3) lag sie meist zwischen 3000 und 4000 m. Die Lage der Nullgradgrenze wurde aus den Temperatur-Tagesmittelwerten von 11 automatischen Stationen von SLF und MeteoSchweiz berechnet. Details siehe hier. 01. bis 07.07.: Unbeständiger Monatsbeginn (1) Nach einem kalten Juni-Ende (siehe Monatsbericht Juni) stieg die Nullgradgrenze in der ersten Juliwoche kontinuierlich an. Mit wechselhaftem Wetter schneite es oberhalb von 3500 m immer wieder etwas. -
Journal 2012
THE RUCKSACK CLUB JOURNAL 2015 THE RUCKSACK CLUB JOURNAL 2015 THE RUCKSACK CLUB JOURNAL 2015 Published in Great Britain All Rights Reserved © by The Rucksack Club Ltd Printed & Bound in the UK by Higham Press Two Old Codgers and a Few Big Hills Parminder Chaggar Two Old Codgers, Lagginhorn summit. Photo Chaggar collection … or as Andy kindly opined: One old codger, a (relatively) young tyke and a few big hills! This summer, Andy Tomlinson and I undertook what has become, in recent years, our annual ‘boys trip’ to the Alps, and this year we had chosen an early season window with the hope of putting his new Viper axes to good use on some classic snow/ice routes such as the Dreieselwand on the Lenzspitze and the Whymper Couloir on the Aiguille Verte. Many weeks of flicking through guides and glossy coffee-table Alpine books, exchanging multiple e-mails with tick-lists and logistics and deliberating over the optimum selection of ropes had served only to build excitement and expectation of the journey ahead. An obsessional fascination with the jet stream and weather charts revealed we were likely to be blessed with stable high pressure across much of the Alps but the final call on our destination would be left until the last weather check on the midnight ferry from Dover. Despite initial plans of climbing in the Oberland to tick the mighty Lauteraahorn, Finsteraahorn and Eiger, the seduction of wall-to-wall sunshine in Chamonix proved too much to resist and after an overnight drive we found ourselves in the familiar Carrefour in Sallanches, stocking the trusty campervan with vital supplies (beer, cheese, salami and a new camera for Andy as the new one he had brought to the Alps was too 10 TWO OLD CODGERS AND A FEW BIG HILLS nice to take on a proper hill, although it was many months before this expense was declared to finance control in Stoke). -
The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper
The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license Title: The Ascent of the Matterhorn Author: Edward Whymper Release Date: November 17, 2011 [Ebook 38044] Language: English ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** ii The Ascent of the Matterhorn iii “THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE CORNER.” THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN BY EDWARD WHYMPER v vi The Ascent of the Matterhorn WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection.—LIVY. LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1880 All rights are reserved [v] PREFACE. In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental tour, the late Mr. William Longman requested me to make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen—much less set foot upon—a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné. The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. They came—they saw—but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was pressed by him to return to the assault. -
The 4000M Peaks of the Alps - Selected Climbs Pdf
FREE THE 4000M PEAKS OF THE ALPS - SELECTED CLIMBS PDF Martin Moran | 382 pages | 01 Jun 2007 | Alpine Club | 9780900523663 | English | London, United Kingdom The m Peaks of the Alps: Selected Climbs - Martin Moran - Google книги Additional criteria were used to deselect or include some points, based on the mountain's overall morphology and mountaineering significance. For example, the Grand Gendarme on the Weisshorn was excluded, despite meeting the prominence criterion as it was simply deemed part of that The 4000m Peaks of the Alps - Selected Climbs ridge. A further 46 additional points of mountaineering significance, such as Pic Eccleswhich did not meet the UIAA's primary selection criteria, were then included within an 'enlarged list'. For a list containing many of the independent mountains of the Alps i. Another, less formal, list of metre alpine mountains, containing only independent peaks with a prominence of over m, and based on an earlier s publications by Richard Goedeke, contains just 51 mountains. They are located in Switzerland 48[Note 1] Italy 38 and France These are either:. Since no exact and formal definition of a 'mountain' exists, the number of metre summits is arbitrary. The topographic prominence is an important factor to decide the official nomination of a summit. The 'Official list' proposed by the UIAA is based not only on prominence but also on other criteria such as the morphology general appearance and mountaineering interest. Summits such as Punta Giordani or Mont Blanc de Courmayeur have much less than the 30 metres minimum prominence criterion but are included in the list because of the other criteria. -
MY FRIENDS. the MOUNTAINS. H. W. Turnbull
MY FRIENDS, THE MOUNTAINS 23 MY FRIENDS, THE MOUNTAINS BY H. W. TURNBULL Read before the Alpine Club, October I, 1946 HE first mountain that I ever took an interest in was my very own, heaped up with a spade on the sunny sands of Barmouth. We children had been building a sand castle of the usual conical precision; but I, the younger, tired of it and preferred to fashion some • thing rougher and more elongated and, when asked what it was, declared it to be a mountain. Nor was it unlike the shape of the neighbouring Cader Idris which had, it would seem, impressed itself upon a child's mind. Even then I realised how very pleasant sounding was the word mountain, and how very pleasant were the shape and texture of the slopes and the loosely hung summit ridge swinging from point to point with one supreme, but not too supreme, central top. Would the same spell have been woven round those friendly shapes I wonder, had the name been Robinson ? But Cader Idris was dis tinctive and appealing : one fastened on the syllables even before one knew what they meant ; and interest was considerably increased when I learnt that my father had climbed to its top. That early experience was over fifty years ago, and it seemed to set a standard to which all proper mountains should conform, of shape, bulk, wildness and benignity. It presented a whole class of mountains as friends at first sight, wherever they were met in later years, the Bowfells and Mis chabels and the Cruachans. -
Characterizing Permafrost in the Entire European Alps: Spatial Distribution and Ice Content
Zurich Open Repository and Archive University of Zurich Main Library Strickhofstrasse 39 CH-8057 Zurich www.zora.uzh.ch Year: 2013 Characterizing permafrost in the entire European Alps: spatial distribution and ice content Böckli, Lorenz Posted at the Zurich Open Repository and Archive, University of Zurich ZORA URL: https://doi.org/10.5167/uzh-89504 Dissertation Published Version Originally published at: Böckli, Lorenz. Characterizing permafrost in the entire European Alps: spatial distribution and ice content. 2013, University of Zurich, Faculty of Science. Characterizing Permafrost in the Entire European Alps: Spatial Distribution and Ice Content Dissertation zur Erlangung der Naturwissenschaftlichen Doktorwürde (Dr. sc. nat.) vorgelegt der Mathematisch-naturwissenschaftlichen Fakultät der Universität Zürich von Lorenz Böckli von Winterthur Promotionskomitee Prof. Dr. Wilfried Haeberli (Vorsitz) Dr. Stephan Gruber (Leitung der Dissertation) Dr. Jeannette Nötzli Prof. Dr. Alexander Brenning Zürich 2013 Summary Permafrost is a subsurface phenomenon existing in cold mountain regions. It influences ecosystems, hydrology, mechanical properties of the subsurface and sediment transport. The practical relevance of permafrost research in the European Alps is given by the con- struction and maintenance of infrastructure in permafrost zones and the assessment and prevention of permafrost-related natural hazards. Permafrost is generally invisible at the terrain surface and direct observation via satellite imagery is impossible. Therefore, modeling approaches are required to spatially map permafrost and analyze its charact- eristics. However, mountain permafrost is characterized by a high spatial variability caused by topography, surface and subsurface characteristics, which make observation and modeling of permafrost challenging. The aim of this thesis is to characterize permafrost for the entire Alps using widely applicable methods, which allow comparable permafrost analyses, which are compat- ible between regions. -
One Man's Fourfhousanders
One Man's Fourfhousanders PETER FLEMING (Plates 41-47) No one in my family had ever shown more than scant interest in hills and mountains, and none could see any sense in climbing them. During my schooldays, as I never took an interest in sport and hated football and cricket, I was written off on school reports as an unmotivated weakling when it came to competitive games. But a new world opened up for me suddenly and dramatically when, at the age of 14, I discovered the Lakeland hills almost on my doorstep, and so it all began. Twelve months after I had left school the headmaster proudly announced at morning assembly that an Old Boy had made headlines in the local paper, upholding the school's high standards ofinitiative and achievement, and setting a fine example which he hoped everyone would remember and strive to maintain. This Old Boy had entered the first mountain trial in the Lake District as the youngest competitor and had come third over the finishing line, ahead of seasoned marathon and mountain runners. At last I had found a challenge, and it seemed that I had a natural affinity towards mountains. Four years later, in 1956- after an intensive apprenticeship, summer and winter, on Lakeland and Scottish hills -I made my first venture to the Alps. Four ofus from our local rambling club - Doug, Colin, Bill and I- drove out in a Ford Popular to Randa in Switzerland, where we took the rack railway to Zermatt. My neck ached with gazing at those awesome mountains.