A Salute to Prescott Celebrating the City’S Sesquicentennial 1864–2014
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A SALUTE TO PRESCOTT CELEBRATING THE CITY’S SESQUICENTENNIAL 1864–2014 MAY 2014 ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE GURLEY STREET, CIRCA 1891 Grand Canyon National Park Sedona Kingman Prescott Christopher Creek PHOENIX Gila Bend Safford Sonoita Bisbee POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE GET MORE ONLINE www.arizonahighways.com Visit our website for details on weekend getaways, hiking, lodging, dining, photography workshops, slideshows and more. www.arizonahighways.wordpress.com Check out our blog for regular posts on just about anything having to do with travel in CONTENTS 05.14 Arizona, including Q&A’s with writers and pho- tographers, special events, bonus photos, sneak peeks at upcoming issues and more. 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 56 WHERE IS THIS? > > > www.facebook.com/azhighways Join our Facebook community to share your photographs, chat with other fans, enter trivia 5 THE JOURNAL 42 HEROES AND THEIR HATS 50 SIBLING REVELRY contests and receive up-to-the-minute informa- People, places and things from around the state, including a story Joe Brown’s father didn’t buy a lot of new hats, and when Shannon Zouzoulas and Megan Haller aren’t stereotypical tion about what’s going on behind the scenes at Arizona Highways. about a long-gone resort near Gila Bend; Tarahumara frogs; and he did, he rode them as hard the first hour as he did the day winemakers. The two sisters from California are feisty and Safford, our hometown of the month. they fell apart. Tom Mix, on the other hand, a family friend irreverent, and they pair potato chips with their wine. But Arizona Highways is on Instagram of the Browns, always wore a new hat, usually a 7X beaver that’s not all. They’re also growing hops to make beer. It all Follow us @arizonahighways to see our travel photos from around the state. 16 STILL NOT AS OLD AS THE HILLS creased in a Montana peak. adds up to one big get-together down in Sonoita. On May 30, 1864, a meeting was held to organize a town that would AN ESSAY BY J.P.S. BROWN BY KATHY RITCHIE www.pinterest.com/azhighways come to be known as Prescott. Although it’s not as old as the ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRIS GALL PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW Join our creative community on Pinterest to share 1.8 billion-year-old mountains that surround it, Arizona’s mile-high city photo inspiration, outdoors ideas and more. is celebrating its sesquicentennial this month. As you’ll see, a lot has 46 I WAS IN A DARKROOM 52 SCENIC DRIVE happened in 150 years. Nevertheless, the old town doesn’t look a day WITH ANSEL ADAMS Kingman to Pearce Ferry: The Cerbat Mountains and the Grand Wash Cliffs are two of the more prominent landmarks over 149. For five years, Alan Ross worked as an assistant to world- on this drive, but it’s the Joshua trees that add the scenic BY KAYLA FROST renowned photographer Ansel Adams, creating prints in the beauty. ◗ Early morning sun shines on the buttes surrounding Lees darkroom and traveling into the field with the man he knew Ferry, the launching point for most Grand Canyon rafting 24 WHISKEY ROW: as both a teacher and a friend. Inside, he explains what life trips down the Colorado River. | TOM BROWNOLD 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D; SHUTTER: 1/100 SEC; PORTRAIT OF A STREET was like as a student of one of the greatest landscape pho- See Canyon Trail: The highlight of this hike is Christopher APERTURE: F/3.5; ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 73 MM An excerpt from our October 1938 issue. tographers of all time. Creek, but the climb to the top of the Mogollon Rim also FRONT COVER An illustration depicts Prescott in the late BY CHARLES C. NIEHUIS INTERVIEW BY KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER 1800s. The city celebrates its sesquicentennial this month. PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY ALAN ROSS includes ferns, grasses, oaks, aspens and some massive | DOUGLAS SMITH ponderosas. 28 MAY FLOWERS BACK COVER A Rocky Mountain beeplant blooms amid yellow sunflowers in Flagstaff. | JACK DYKINGA In places like Minnesota, Michigan and Maine, April showers are usually CAMERA: NIKON D800E; SHUTTER: 1/40 SEC; a given. In the Southwest, however, where rain is rare and a decade- APERTURE: F/13; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 200 MM PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some long drought has made it even more so, there’s no guarantee. Never- photographs in this issue are available for purchase. theless, Mother Nature usually finds a way to deliver, and when she To view options, visit www.arizonahighwaysprints. does, our photographers are there to capture the moments. com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA 2 JANUARY 2013 www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors No Horses Allowed MAY 2014 VOL. 90, NO. 5 800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com ou won’t see many horses in the thing that reflected the As part of our ses- PUBLISHER Win Holden saloons of Prescott. It’s against city’s historic charm, quicentennial tribute EDITOR Robert Stieve Y the law. Porches, sidewalks and something worthy to Prescott, we’re MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer private homes are off-limits, too. It’s been of Prescott’s sesqui- resurrecting that story. SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kathy Ritchie ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin that way since 1873, when the city fathers It’s a double flash- centennial. Well, one EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel passed Ordinance 2. Here’s what it says: thing led to another, back of sorts. We’re PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida “Any person who shall willfully and and we eventually flashing back to 1938, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney maliciously ride or drive any horse, mule ended up on the phone and in his story, Mr. ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice or other riding animal, upon any porch, with Douglas Smith. Niehuis flashes back MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey or sidewalk, or under any awning in front As illustrators go, to the “middle eight- PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi of any private dwelling or place of busi- Doug is one of the best, ies” — the 1880s. His is WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero ness, or into any dwelling, store, saloon, and we’re excited to a dramatic story about CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman or other business house, thereby terrify- have his artwork on a typical night on FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen ing the occupants thereof, and endan- our cover — it’s that Whiskey Row. There’s INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis gering life and property, or who shall “something differ- MARKOW PAUL so much drama that he CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 drive or ride through the plazas, streets, ent” we were looking needed 31 exclamation SPONSORSHIP SALES REPRESENTATION Kathleen Hennen lanes, or alleys within the village limits for. The illustration was created from an points to tell the tale. Hennen Publishing & in a careless and reckless manner liable 1890s photo we have of Gurley Street. If About halfway through, a big fight Marketing Group 480-664-0541 to cause injury to life or property, shall, you’re familiar with Prescott, Gurley is breaks out and a hundred men are FLYNN KERRY LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] upon conviction before the Recorder, be the street that runs in front of the court- “swinging chairs, table legs, spittoons 2039 W. Lewis Avenue fined in any sum not exceeding $100, in house. The large building on the left is — anything that’ll knock a man out.” Phoenix, AZ 85009 DOUGLAS SMITH A SALUTE TO PRESCOTT CELEBRATING THE CITY’S SESQUICENTENNIAL the discretion of the Court.” the Hotel Burke, which was billed as the Eventually, Tom Hallahan walks into a “Maybe I was born in the wrong century,” 1864–2014 GOVERNOR Janice K. Brewer Like most young towns in the Old city’s only “fireproof” hotel. A few years bar called the Cabinet. He’s there to gun Douglas Smith says with a laugh. Smith, DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT West, Prescott was attempting to bring after that declaration, the Burke burned down Mike Hickey. I won’t tell you how OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski who illustrated this month’s stunning cover, MAY 2014 some degree of civility to a place where, to the ground. Irony. In its place is the it ends, but I will tell you that in spite of ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION says he’s always been drawn to historical ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE BOARD CHAIRMAN Stephen W. Christy apparently, it wasn’t unusual for resi- Hotel St. Michael, which has hosted the barroom brawl and the pistol-waving, work, and that made his first assignment for VICE CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson dents to be terrified by what was going some heavy hitters over the years, includ- Ordinance 2 seemed to be working. At no Arizona Highways — depicting Prescott as MEMBERS Hank Rogers on around them. Of course, that’s not ing Teddy Roosevelt. That’s one of the point in the story do the characters mali- Joseph E. La Rue it might have looked at the end of the 19th what the founders had in mind when things you’ll learn in this month’s cover ciously ride their horses into any of the William Cuthbertson century — an intriguing challenge. “I like the they got together on May 30, 1864, and story. You’ll also learn that Prescott’s first saloons on Whiskey Row. And it looks Deanna Beaver architecture, the clothing and the land- Jack W.