A SALUTE TO PRESCOTT CELEBRATING THE CITY’S SESQUICENTENNIAL 1864–2014

MAY 2014

ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE

GURLEY STREET, CIRCA 1891 Grand Canyon National Park

Sedona Kingman

Prescott Christopher Creek

PHOENIX Gila Bend Safford

Sonoita

Bisbee

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www.arizonahighways.wordpress.com Check out our blog for regular posts on just about anything having to do with travel in CONTENTS 05.14 Arizona, including Q&A’s with writers and pho- tographers, special events, bonus photos, sneak peeks at upcoming issues and more. 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 56 WHERE IS THIS? > > > www.facebook.com/azhighways Join our Facebook community to share your photographs, chat with other fans, enter trivia 5 THE JOURNAL 42 HEROES AND THEIR HATS 50 SIBLING REVELRY contests and receive up-to-the-minute informa- People, places and things from around the state, including a story Joe Brown’s father didn’t buy a lot of new hats, and when Shannon Zouzoulas and Megan Haller aren’t stereotypical tion about what’s going on behind the scenes at Arizona Highways. about a long-gone resort near Gila Bend; Tarahumara frogs; and he did, he rode them as hard the first hour as he did the day winemakers. The two sisters from California are feisty and Safford, our hometown of the month. they fell apart. Tom Mix, on the other hand, a family friend irreverent, and they pair potato chips with their wine. But Arizona Highways is on Instagram of the Browns, always wore a new hat, usually a 7X beaver that’s not all. They’re also growing hops to make beer. It all Follow us @arizonahighways to see our travel photos from around the state. 16 STILL NOT AS OLD AS THE HILLS creased in a Montana peak. adds up to one big get-together down in Sonoita. On May 30, 1864, a meeting was held to organize a town that would AN ESSAY BY J.P.S. BROWN BY KATHY RITCHIE www.pinterest.com/azhighways come to be known as Prescott. Although it’s not as old as the ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRIS GALL PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW Join our creative community on Pinterest to share 1.8 billion-year-old mountains that surround it, Arizona’s mile-high city photo inspiration, outdoors ideas and more. is celebrating its sesquicentennial this month. As you’ll see, a lot has 46 I WAS IN A DARKROOM 52 SCENIC DRIVE happened in 150 years. Nevertheless, the old town doesn’t look a day WITH ANSEL ADAMS Kingman to Pearce Ferry: The Cerbat Mountains and the Grand Wash Cliffs are two of the more prominent landmarks over 149. For five years, Alan Ross worked as an assistant to world- on this drive, but it’s the Joshua trees that add the scenic BY KAYLA FROST renowned photographer Ansel Adams, creating prints in the beauty. ◗ Early morning sun shines on the buttes surrounding Lees darkroom and traveling into the field with the man he knew Ferry, the launching point for most Grand Canyon rafting 24 WHISKEY ROW: trips down the Colorado River. | TOM BROWNOLD as both a teacher and a friend. Inside, he explains what life 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH PORTRAIT OF A STREET was like as a student of one of the greatest landscape pho- CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D; SHUTTER: 1/100 SEC; See Canyon Trail: The highlight of this hike is Christopher APERTURE: F/3.5; ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 73 MM An excerpt from our October 1938 issue. tographers of all time. Creek, but the climb to the top of the Mogollon Rim also FRONT COVER An illustration depicts Prescott in the late BY CHARLES C. NIEHUIS INTERVIEW BY KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER 1800s. The city celebrates its sesquicentennial this month. PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY ALAN ROSS includes ferns, grasses, oaks, aspens and some massive | DOUGLAS SMITH ponderosas. 28 MAY FLOWERS BACK COVER A Rocky Mountain beeplant blooms amid yellow sunflowers in Flagstaff. | JACK DYKINGA In places like Minnesota, Michigan and Maine, April showers are usually CAMERA: NIKON D800E; SHUTTER: 1/40 SEC; a given. In the Southwest, however, where rain is rare and a decade- APERTURE: F/13; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 200 MM PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some long drought has made it even more so, there’s no guarantee. Never- photographs in this issue are available for purchase. theless, Mother Nature usually finds a way to deliver, and when she To view options, visit www.arizonahighwaysprints. does, our photographers are there to capture the moments. com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA

2 JANUARY 2013 www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s letter contributors

No Horses Allowed MAY 2014 VOL. 90, NO. 5 800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com ou won’t see many horses in the thing that reflected the As part of our ses- PUBLISHER Win Holden saloons of Prescott. It’s against city’s historic charm, quicentennial tribute EDITOR Robert Stieve Y the law. Porches, sidewalks and something worthy to Prescott, we’re MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn Kramer private homes are off-limits, too. It’s been of Prescott’s sesqui- resurrecting that story. SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kathy Ritchie ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin that way since 1873, when the city fathers It’s a double flash- centennial. Well, one EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel passed Ordinance 2. Here’s what it says: thing led to another, back of sorts. We’re PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida “Any person who shall willfully and and we eventually flashing back to 1938, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney maliciously ride or drive any horse, mule ended up on the phone and in his story, Mr. ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney DESIGN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Diana Benzel-Rice or other riding animal, upon any porch, with Douglas Smith. Niehuis flashes back MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey or sidewalk, or under any awning in front As illustrators go, to the “middle eight- PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi of any private dwelling or place of busi- Doug is one of the best, ies” — the 1880s. His is WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero ness, or into any dwelling, store, saloon, and we’re excited to a dramatic story about CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman or other business house, thereby terrify- have his artwork on a typical night on FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen ing the occupants thereof, and endan- our cover — it’s that Whiskey Row. There’s INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Cindy Bormanis

gering life and property, or who shall “something differ- MARKOW PAUL so much drama that he CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 drive or ride through the plazas, streets, ent” we were looking needed 31 exclamation SPONSORSHIP SALES REPRESENTATION Kathleen Hennen lanes, or alleys within the village limits for. The illustration was created from an points to tell the tale. Hennen Publishing & in a careless and reckless manner liable 1890s photo we have of Gurley Street. If About halfway through, a big fight Marketing Group 480-664-0541

to cause injury to life or property, shall, you’re familiar with Prescott, Gurley is breaks out and a hundred men are FLYNN KERRY LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] upon conviction before the Recorder, be the street that runs in front of the court- “swinging chairs, table legs, spittoons 2039 W. Lewis Avenue fined in any sum not exceeding $100, in house. The large building on the left is — anything that’ll knock a man out.” Phoenix, AZ 85009 DOUGLAS SMITH A SALUTE TO PRESCOTT CELEBRATING THE CITY’S SESQUICENTENNIAL the discretion of the Court.” the Hotel Burke, which was billed as the Eventually, Tom Hallahan walks into a “Maybe I was born in the wrong century,” 1864–2014 GOVERNOR Janice K. Brewer Like most young towns in the Old city’s only “fireproof” hotel. A few years bar called the Cabinet. He’s there to gun Douglas Smith says with a laugh. Smith, DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT West, Prescott was attempting to bring after that declaration, the Burke burned down Mike Hickey. I won’t tell you how OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski who illustrated this month’s stunning cover, MAY 2014 some degree of civility to a place where, to the ground. Irony. In its place is the it ends, but I will tell you that in spite of ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION says he’s always been drawn to historical ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE BOARD CHAIRMAN Stephen W. Christy apparently, it wasn’t unusual for resi- Hotel St. Michael, which has hosted the barroom brawl and the pistol-waving, work, and that made his first assignment for VICE CHAIRMAN Kelly O. Anderson dents to be terrified by what was going some heavy hitters over the years, includ- Ordinance 2 seemed to be working. At no Arizona Highways — depicting Prescott as MEMBERS Hank Rogers on around them. Of course, that’s not ing Teddy Roosevelt. That’s one of the point in the story do the characters mali- Joseph E. La Rue it might have looked at the end of the 19th what the founders had in mind when things you’ll learn in this month’s cover ciously ride their horses into any of the William Cuthbertson century — an intriguing challenge. “I like the they got together on May 30, 1864, and story. You’ll also learn that Prescott’s first saloons on Whiskey Row. And it looks Deanna Beaver architecture, the clothing and the land- Jack W. Sellers mapped out their new town. On that “Christmas Celebration” took place in like they stayed off the porches, too. scapes of past eras,” he says. “God help me day, 150 years ago this month, they were 1954, that Junior Bonner starring Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the Arizona if I have to draw modern people at computer Department of Transportation. Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 envisioning what we think of today as a Steve McQueen was filmed outside the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. Subscription screens in a modern office.” scene from Norman Rockwell. Not the around the square, and that cor­respon­dence and change of address information: Arizona Highways, P.O. Smith’s father was a sculptor, and in a Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, Gurley Street, circa 1891 debauchery of Whiskey Row, which must Whiskey Row’s most popular and at additional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL PUBLICA- way, Smith’s work is similar to his father’s. He TIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANA­DIAN DISTRIBUTION) SALES AGREEMENT NO. have played a role in Ordinance 2. saloon was Bob Brow’s Palace. 41220511. SEND RETURNS TO QUAD/GRAPHICS, P.O. BOX 875, WINDSOR, ON works in scratchboard, which means that N9A 6P2. POST­MASTER: Send address changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. That law, although archaic, is still on Although it was popular, it Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Copy­right © 2014 by the Ari­zona Depart- while most artists start with a white canvas or paper and add darker tones, Smith does ment of Trans­­por­­tation. Repro­duc­tion in whole or in part with­­out permission the reverse. On a scratchboard, a layer of light-colored clay is covered with black ink. Using the books. It’s not necessary, though. wasn’t the first. is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and is not responsible for These days, there’s nothing terrifying “They built the first one unsolicited­ mater­ ials.­ sharp tools, Smith scratches through the black to reveal the light underneath — carving about Prescott. In fact, with its court- out of logs, down on Granite PRODUCED IN THE USA away the darkness, in a sense. “It’s subtractive, rather than additive,” he says, adding that house square surrounded by mom-and- Creek, and called it the Quartz it’s also hard on an artist’s neck, back and shoulders, but “I’m kind of stuck with it now.” pop shops, the town’s downtown is the Rock Saloon,” Charles C. As a teenager, Smith loved adventure comics, and that was partly why he studied closest thing Arizona has to a Rockwell Niehuis wrote in the October illustration at the Rhode Island School of Design. While he says he struggled to find work JOSHUA LOTT illustration. That’s how we ended up 1938 issue of Arizona Highways. after he graduated, his profile gradually increased until he could become a full-time with this month’s cover. “They built the rest of ’em up on Monte- COMING IN JUNE ... If you like what you see in this illustrator and carve out a nice life for himself. In addition to being featured in numerous When we started putting the issue zuma Street and called it Whiskey Row.” Our annual Summer Hiking Guide. Plus, magazine every month, check out newspapers and magazines, Smith has also done work for Greenpeace, including an together, the first thing we did was pull “By 1874,” Mr. Niehuis continues, the unlikely story about a group of Has- Arizona Highways Television, an anti-whaling children’s book and a T-shirt protesting the hunting of harp-seal pups. He our April 1964 issue, which was dedi- “there was a full block of saloons and sidic Jews in Brooklyn who partner with Emmy Award-winning program lives on Peaks Island, a small island off the coast of Portland, Maine, in a house that’s hosted by former news anchor Robin cated to Prescott’s centennial. The cover gambling halls, where, they say, the best a wheat farmer in Yuma. a short walk from the Atlantic Ocean. He says advances in computer-aided illustration Sewell. For broadcast times, visit and the proliferation of stock art have made finding work a challenge lately, but he can’t photo in ’64 was a wide shot looking ‘gambleers’ of the world took postgradu- our website, www.arizonahighways. down on the city. It’s a nice image, but ate courses in games of chance. That block ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR com, and click the Arizona Highways imagine doing anything else. “It’s a tough living,” he says, “but I just have to do it.”

we wanted something different, some- became the epitome of the Old West.” Follow me on Twitter: @azhighways BARNES ELLEN Television link on our home page. — NOAH AUSTIN

2 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 3 letters to the editor [email protected] THE JOURNAL 05.14 UPHILL BATTLE I live in Fountain Hills, and I’m a docent for the River of Time hometowns > local favorites > history > photography > odd jobs Museum. Our museum concentrates not only on the history of dining > nature > lodging > things to do Fountain Hills, but also the entire Phoenix area. Regarding your story [The Verde, March 2014], I’ll bet you didn’t know that the Verde River runs backward. At one time, the Phoenix area was higher than Flagstaff. As Arizonans, we have a responsibility to stress to the next generation the importance of water to our very livelihood. We cannot have the Arizona we have now without it. TK JoAnne Collins, Fountain Hills, Arizona

March 2014

ANOTHER WAY TO GO started reading it at my grandparents’ especially your efforts to highlight great In her Carefree to the Verde River home as soon as I could read. Now I read public roads for cycling (not just relegat- article [Scenic Drive, February 2014], Kelly it on my iPad 3, and it’s more beauti- ing bicycles and bicyclists to trails). Vaughn Kramer neglected to mention ful than ever. It’s always stunning. It Not everyone is so friendly to bicyclists Keeping Their Balance two important points. There’s a natural saddened me when I had to give up my and their rights to the road. As you may Hoodoos rise toward the night sky at Glen Canyon hot spring about 100 yards upstream collection of back issues, which I’d kept know, the League of American Bicyclists National Recreation Area near Page. Hoodoos form when from the sheep bridge. The spring (hid- from my grandparents’ home. Yet it ranks Arizona 10th in its Bicycle Friendly a relatively soft layer of rock is eroded over millions of den among rushes) feeds into a concrete thrills me to be able to see the new ones State rankings. Scottsdale and Tucson years, leaving a harder type of rock “balanced” on top. tub. Very relaxing. Also, retracing one’s in all of their glory. rank as gold-level Bicycle Friendly For more information about Glen Canyon, call vehicular steps isn’t necessary to return Bonita Birnstengel, Grand Marais, Minnesota Communities, Flagstaff and Tempe rank 928-608-6200 or visit www.nps.gov/glca. home. A river crossing (except in rare silver, and five other Arizona cities and CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MARK II; SHUTTER: 30 SEC; flooding) about 100 yards downstream QUITE THE SITES towns rank bronze. In addition, Arizona APERTURE: F/11; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 30 MM from the bridge (high-clearance and That was a nice article on the Buckskin is home to 11 bicycle-friendly businesses four-wheel-drive recommended) leads Boutique [Local Favorites, February 2014], and two bicycle-friendly universities. to the east side, and there’s a good dirt but I was surprised it didn’t mention the Thank you for supporting Arizona’s bicy- road that heads south. A short distance wonderful campground that’s right there cle friendliness. south of Horseshoe Dam, another estab- overlooking the water. There’s a great George Ivey, Canton, North Carolina lished crossing leads to the west bank. nature trail, too, with beautiful rock From there, travelers can head south to formations. It’s one of the nicest camp- COMPLEMENTARY ISSUE Carefree. grounds in Arizona. Several years ago I did some Norwegian Fred Cline, Tombstone, Arizona Linda Webster, Fort Mohave, Arizona ancestral-genealogy research for a gentle- man who lives in Arizona. It was a joy QUESTION OF THE CENTURY POINTS IN TIME to help him figure out who his correct The city of Yuma is celebrating its 100th One of the photos in Life on the Edge ancestors were in the Valdres, Oppland, anniversary this year. Why? I don’t see [February 2014] portrays Grand Canyon area of Norway. Several months after I’d any documentation to support this. To seasonal rangers at Hopi Point in 1940. helped him, I received a gift subscription me, it looks like Yuma is 141 years old, but My, how times change. The 1940 rangers from him to your wonderful magazine. I know Arizona was only 100 in 2012. Do are all male, all about the same height, It’s a pleasure for me each month when you have any history on this? and they’re dressed in tall boots and the magazine arrives. I read it cover to John Heiligenthal, Yuma, Arizona ties. In May 2008, while serving as a cover. I love the stories in each issue, and Volunteer-in-the-Park at Grand Canyon, the pictures are beautiful. We haven’t EDITOR’S NOTE: Thanks for the question, John. I reproduced the 1940 photo in cur- been to Arizona, but with each issue, I It’s true that there’s been a city named Yuma at rent day. The 2008 interpretive rangers learn more and more about your beautiful that location since 1873. Before that, it was called include seven women and two men of state. Arizona City. However, April 7, 1914, is the day that varying height and modern dress. Jean Marthaler, St. Joseph, Minnesota Yuma was chartered as a city under the laws of Jonathan Upchurch, Ivins, Utah the newly formed state of Arizona. That’s the contact us If you have thoughts or com- occasion being marked this year. SPOKES PERSON ments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d I’ve been meaning to write for a while love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis OUT WITH THE OLD to thank Arizona Highways for including Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information,

I love your magazine as much as ever. I cycling and cyclists in your magazine — visit www.arizonahighways.com. GUY SCHMICKLE

4 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 5 hometowns � �

local favorites Mi Casa Tortilla Factory SAFFORD

Safford’s Mi Casa Tortilla Factory is home to naturally flavored, traditional-style tortillas. Owners Jack and Elsa Seballos acquired the restaurant in 2012, after Jack noticed that the local tortilla shop was going out of busi- ness. “The tortilla shop had a ‘For Sale’ sign on it, so I grabbed the sign, and the cashier asked me, ‘What are you doing?’ ” Jack says. “I said, ‘Oh, I’m going to buy this place.’ ” Today, Mi Casa Tortilla is both a tortilla fac- tory and a restaurant, with a dining room separate from the factory. What was it like when you bought it? We bought the factory from a gentleman who had owned it for about 25 years. It housed the same machinery that was used back then — an old three-tier stove and an old bun divider. We produced 6,000 tortillas in about an hour [on the old equip- ment]. Now, the new machines produce 6,000 tortillas in about 15 minutes.

THE JOURNAL Talk about your tortillas. We ship tortillas all the way to New York, Wisconsin, Tennessee … everywhere. It’s amazing. There are people who have left the area, and they miss the tortillas because of their natural flavor. We give tours all the time. If people come in early, I go and get them tortillas with warm butter and let them see how they’re made. What tortillas do you offer beyond the traditional corn and flour? Blueberry-flavored tortillas, apple cin- SAFFORD namon, pumpkin spice. They sell out, and we only make them once a week. The FOUNDED ANSON P.K. SAFFORD WASN’T A TALL MAN, but that didn’t stop him from blueberry tortilla just sells like crazy. I 1901 (incorporated) becoming Arizona’s third Territorial governor — and eventually earning the haven’t even broken down the numbers on POPULATION “affectionate” nickname of “Little Governor.” Similarly, the city of Safford grew it, but they just sell out all the time. For a 9,566 from humble beginnings into an Eastern Arizona hub of industry and science. while there, [Elsa] was making a blueberry- Originally settled in the 1870s by former residents of Gila Bend, Safford is known AREA cream-cheese topping with it. That was to 8.6 square miles today for the large Freeport-McMoRan copper mine located just north of town. get people hooked, and it worked out. The city’s distance from major metropolitan areas and its low-output streetlights ELEVATION — DANIELLE GROBMEIER 2,900 feet also make it ideal for stargazing. Mount Graham, a few miles to the southwest, is the home of several sophisticated telescopes and observatories. — NOAH AUSTIN COUNTY Mi Casa Tortilla Factory is located at 621 S. Graham Seventh Avenue in Safford. For more information, www.cityofsafford.us call 928-428-7915. MARK LIPCZYNSKI

6 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 7 history photography � � � � Hot Spot Although the drive to San Diego from Phoenix or Tucson is usually referenced as a punch line, there was a time, in the late 1800s, when tourists would flock to the hot springs just west of Gila Bend.

ust west of Gila Bend, along the Gila River, sit several adobe and stone J structures, still baking in the hot desert sun more than a century after their construc- tion. Although they don’t look like much today, these structures were once an exclusive resort where guests stayed to enjoy the nearby Agua Caliente hot springs. Built in 1897, the 22-room adobe hotel catered mostly to travelers coming from the town of Hyder. Hyder is now a ghost town, but several eastbound and westbound passenger trains arrived there daily during its heyday, and weary pas- sengers no doubt benefited from the therapeutic mineral springs. In the 1860s, John Ross Browne visited the

springs and wrote about his travels BILL HATCHER THE JOURNAL in his book Adventures in the Apache Fading light illuminates the top pads of a prickly pear cactus at the Grand Canyon. Country. He included this account of his brief stay at the Agua Caliente spotted this view, which is in the Canyon’s more dynamic. So does the dappled light PROVIDED BY JEREMY ROWE Frame Work Tapeats sandstone layer. on the cactus, which gives the appearance springs: “An abundant supply of water A resort brochure extols the restorative power of the Agua Caliente hot springs. flows from the Aqua Calliente [sic]. We had Photo Editor Jeff Kida talks of time changing. a glorious bath in the springs next morning, which completely water for irrigation, eventually leaving them barren. Although with Bill Hatcher about pseudo- JK: Talk about the composition. set us up after the dust and grit of the journey.” the springs have dried up and the resort closed in the 1950s, spontaneity in photography. BH: I like cliff edges and overhangs as JK: What kind of camera did you use? The springs, which used to pump out hundreds of gallons caretakers still manage and maintain what’s left of the property. natural framing devices, and in this shot, BH: I couldn’t use a digital SLR for this shot; of hot water a day, were taken over by ranchers who used the — DANIELLE GROBMEIER the prickly pear’s pad doesn’t quite inter- there simply wasn’t room for it in this tight JK: How did you come across the sect with the overhanging cliff. Getting two space. I used a smaller camera, a Sony location for this photo? elements that close to each other creates Cyber-shot DSC-RX100, and it did the job. BH: In late December, I was scouting at a subconscious appearance of spontane- There’s an adage in photography: The best ARIZONA HIGHWAYS this ■ Billy Jack, a suc- to Nevada on May 5, St. Johns Herald and the Grand Canyon. We were looking for a ity — even though a lot of planning went camera out there is the one you have with cessful action movie 1866, through an act Apache News offers camping spot, and I got off the trail and into the shot. It makes the photograph you. That ended up being the case here. with scenes filmed in of Congress. this insight: “Over at 50 Years Ago The May 1964 issue month Prescott, is released ■ Stevie Phoenix of Arizona Highways on May 1, 1971. Nicks (pic­ they are featured Lake Mead in history ■ The city of Phoenix tured), a lead getting into and Lake Mohave, from the sun. If It might take some is officially recognized singer of hysterics which are located IMPROVISATION ADDITIONAL PHOTO you don’t have one work, and you’ll READING on May 4, 1868. It was Fleetwood about the near Hoover Dam handy, try holding have to be careful Look for our book then part of Yavapai Mac, is born hanging or in Northwestern Arizona Highways Having trouble County. in Phoenix proposed Arizona. The issue a plastic hood that your hand just not to get your hand Photography with a sun flare in ■ Land from Pah-Ute on May 26, hanging of also included an TIP mounts to the front above and in front in the frame, but Guide, available your frame that of the lens to help of your lens, at an there will be a sweet at bookstores and Mohave coun- 1948. five con- article about a rain- and www.shop ties is taken from ■ On May demned bow-trout hatchery just won’t go away? reduce the flare and angle between the spot that eliminates arizonahighways. Arizona and awarded 27, 1915, the murderers.” in Black Canyon. Most lenses have haze that can come glass and the sun. the flare. com/books.

8 MAY 2014 To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com. www.arizonahighways.com 9 odd jobs � � FIRE- TOWER LOOKOUT Shirley Payne, Happy Jack

SHIRLEY PAYNE ISN’T ONE TO MINCE WORDS, especially when it comes to fires. After all, as the Baker Butte fire-tower lookout, she’s witnessed the devastating effects of wildfires. “The patrols put out so many campfires that THE JOURNAL people leave burning,” she says. “Personally, I can accept a lightning fire over a human- caused fire. There’s no excuse for people being stupid.” Payne, who has worked as a lookout for the past 30 years, has spotted hundreds of fires in her day. Fortunately, the number of fires in recent years has decreased, something Payne attributes to improved public awareness. In 2010, Payne authored a book titled Baker Butte Journal: Plus Some Pretty Good Recipes. “My husband always wanted me to write a cookbook, and I came up with the idea of keep- ing a journal that summer,” Payne says. “The recipes were a day-by-day account of what I made.” Payne has no plans to write a follow-up. Instead, she’ll continue surveying the landscape for fires — while enduring the occasional light- ning strike. “My tower gets direct hits,” she says. “It’s pretty exciting. I tell people I didn’t always have curly hair.” — KATHY RITCHIE

For more information about Shirley Payne and her book Baker Butte Journal: Plus Some Pretty Good Recipes,

JOHN BURCHAM JOHN visit www.berryqueenpress.com.

10 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 11 dining nature � � � � Join the Club Blueberry and walnut buttermilk pancakes dusted with powdered sugar, coffee-charred breast-of-chicken salad, mountainous crème pies, locally roasted coffee ... the ever-popular Bisbee Breakfast Club might look like a diner, but its menu goes way beyond bacon and eggs.

I SIT AT THE CURVY FORMICA COUNTER AT THE mountainous crème pies and locally linoleum floors. Our busboy sports studs Tarahumara frogs make Bisbee Breakfast Club, watching three roasted coffee. through each ear and his lower lip. Tat- subtle snore or cooks labor over a packed griddle under- Lowell was once a sizable town, but tooed stars cover his forearms, but I can’t squawk noises. neath a giant stainless-steel vent and an the Lavender Pit Mine consumed most of stop looking at the bright-red lips on his old sign that reads, “Home- it in the 1950s. What’s left is a small por- neck. They look so convincing, I’m not bisbee made Pies/Cakes 25 Cents.” tion of Erie Street, perched on the edge sure they are tattooed until I ask. The place has the feel of of the open-pit mine. Today, Erie Street Our server is crisply efficient and a diner. There is music, but it’s hard to probably doesn’t look much different than answers my questions politely, but hear over the hum of conversations and it did back then, with 1940s- and ’50s-era doesn’t linger. The place is packed, and They often the clatter of silverware and dishes. vehicles lining the street and old signs there’s no time to chat. exhibit dark The Bisbee Breakfast Club was an and painted murals advertising the Indian The restaurant’s regulars come from all spots on instant hit when it opened in 2005 in a Motorcycle Co., Greyhound and Chevrolet. over Southern Arizona. Fortunately, those their backs. historic building that was originally a phar- The retro feel of the Bisbee Breakfast of us who live farther north don’t have to macy and then a glass factory in the Lowell Club seems a perfect fit, but, in fact, it drive quite as far to get our fix since the district, just southeast of Old Bisbee. was the BBC that drove the reinvention of BBC opened a second location in Marana, The restaurant has since changed the street, according to a nearby business near Tucson. While it can never quite hands, but the current owner kept both owner. The restaurant inspired him and duplicate the character of the original, the low prices and the menu items that a few like-minded property owners to it tries. More importantly, it serves the made the place insanely popular, such dress up the place to re-create the histori- same great menu. — KATHY MONTGOMERY as blueberry and walnut buttermilk cal effect from old photographs. Bisbee Breakfast Club is located at 75A Erie Street in pancakes dusted with powdered sugar, The BBC itself is vintage Bisbee, with Bisbee. For more information, call 520-432-5885 or visit The frogs can grow to nearly coffee-charred breast-of-chicken salad, a glass storefront, a brick wall and green www.bisbeebreakfastclub.com. 4.5 inches in length. BRUCE (2) D. TAUBERT THE JOURNAL Tarahumara Frogs nature factoid lthough they’re similar in may also have contributed. appearance to American With brown skin and an olive- bullfrogs, Tarahumara green or yellow-orange complexion, Afrogs are rarely seen. And these highly aquatic frogs seek out when they are, they’re usually in canyons that contain deep plunge the canyons of Southern Arizona, pools of water, as well as areas particularly in the Pajarito, Tuma- prone to collections of shallow cacori and Santa Rita mountains. water. The females can lay as many They’ve also been spotted in as 1,800 eggs each spring, and the parts of Northern Mexico — fitting, eggs typically form a spherical considering they’re named for the mass at the bottoms of shallow Tarahumara Indians of Mexico’s pools of water. Copper Canyon. In response to the decline in Tarahumara frogs reportedly numbers, the Tarahumara Frog disappeared from many of their Conservation Team began at- OXEYE DAISIES Arizona habitats in May 1983, due tempting to restore the species to Europeans introduced oxeye daisies to the United States, but these seemingly innocent flowers have gone from being ornamental to in large part to an outbreak of its historical Arizona habitats in being an invasive menace — they’ve been known to harbor several chytridiomycosis, a fungal disease June 2004, and the Arizona Game crop diseases. The daisies, with their trademark white petals and that affects amphibians worldwide. and Fish Department continues its bright-yellow centers, are found throughout North America and are prominent in Arizona’s Coconino, Gila, Navajo and Apache counties. Emissions from copper smelters, effort to maintain the population. — DANIELLE GROBMEIER

STEVEN MECKLER STEVEN cold weather, flooding and drought — DANIELLE GROBMEIER

12 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 13 lodging � � Lights. Action. Cameras.

things� to do Print it! in arizona � Nature and Heritage Festival May 1-4, Rio Rico Learn about the nature and Filling a photographer’s every need since 1972. history of Santa Cruz County at this event, which includes nature walks, historical and cultural tours, and classes with local and state experts. Infor­ mation: 520-988-5425 or www. santacruznatureheritage.org Cinco de Mayo Menos Tres May 2, Yuma This free festival (translated as “May 5 Minus Three”) features live entertainment, along with food and beverage vendors, on Main Street in historic down- town Yuma. Information: 800- 293-0071 or www.visityuma.com Birding Festival May 7-10, Sierra Vista The Southwest Wings Spring Fling, timed for the middle of the nesting season, features guided tours to some of South- ern Arizona’s most impressive THE JOURNAL birding hotspots, along with free programs and children’s activities. Information: www. swwings.org Beer Fest May 31, Kingman

PAUL MARKOW PAUL “Bring Your Crew and Have a Brew” at this Mohave County Fairgrounds event, which fea- Orchards Inn tures selections from brewer- ies around the state. Informa­ FOR SOME TRAVELERS, the name of the game lounging poolside or unwind with a glass of wine tion: 928-753-2636 or www. is peace and quiet. For others, it’s New York’s on their private deck or balcony, overlooking the mcfafairgrounds.org Times Square, London’s Piccadilly Circus or spectacular red rocks. According to Meghan Santa Fe’s historic plaza. In other Rudolph, the property’s media manager, every Photo Workshop: sedona words, action right at your finger- room — there are 70 — features a view. Visitors Hummingbirds July 31-August 3, tips. If the latter is what gets your to this part of the world often fall in love. Frankly, White Mountains heart racing, consider staying at Orchards Inn it’s hard not to. If Sedona captures your heart, Arizona Highways contributor the next time you’re in Red Rock Country. consider extending your stay. With kitchenettes Bruce D. Taubert leads this Located in the heart of Sedona’s bustling up- in a handful of the rooms and a pet-friendly workshop at the Sipe White Wild Mustangs Mountain Wildlife Area, an town district, this cozy establishment neighbors policy, Orchards Inn is the perfect place to call of the Gila Reservation the town’s many art galleries, shops, restau- home. At least for a little while. ideal place to make stunning by Dale Kesel photographs of broad-tailed, Photographed from a two-seat rants and tour companies, making it easy to en- — KATHY RITCHIE rufous, calliope and other ultra-light aircraft. joy the town with your own two feet. That isn’t Orchards Inn is located at 254 State Route 89A hummingbirds. Information: to say that Orchards Inn is just a place to sleep. in Sedona. For more information, call 855-541-0070 888-790-7042 or www.ahpw. It’s not. Guests can get lost in the scenery while or visit www.orchardsinn.com. org Sales - Rentals - Repair - Photo Imaging

14 MAY 2014 480-966-6954 - 800-836-7374 www.tempecamera.com PRESCOTT: Still not As Old As the Hills On May 30, 1864, a meeting was held to organize a town that would come to be known as Prescott. Although it’s not as old as the 1.8 billion-year-old mountains that surround it, Arizona’s mile-high city is celebrating its sesquicentennial this month. As you’ll see, a lot has happened in 150 years. Nevertheless, the old town doesn’t look a day over 149. By Kayla Frost

Although he never lived there, unique circumstance in the Arizona Yavapai County’s judge and sheriff, William Hickling Prescott, who Territory and in the West. and Prescott’s mayor. In 1898, penned History of the Conquest of O’Neill joined Theodore Roos- Mexico, was Prescott’s namesake. The first sale of lots in the town evelt’s Rough Riders — the United Some of the other names that site of Prescott was conducted on States’ first volunteer cavalry. On were considered include Audubon, June 4, 1864. Seventy-three lots July 1 of that year, he was killed in Goodwin City and Aztlan. were sold for a total of $3,927.50. action in the Spanish-American War. O’Neill is buried in Arlington Even people who live in Prescott The first official Prescott weather National Cemetery in Virginia. debate how to correctly pronounce report was recorded on January 1, its name. However, the general 1865, at Fort Whipple. Prescott was Arizona’s Territo- consensus among locals is “Press- rial capital — twice. The capital kit,” rather than “Press-cot.” Prescott’s William Owen “Buckey” started there from 1864-67, then O’Neill, an infamous gambler, moved to Tucson before returning The Yavapai County Court- In 1865, Prescott was described as was known for more reputable to Prescott in 1877. In 1889, the house in downtown Prescott a town built entirely of wood and activities, too. At various times in capital moved to Phoenix perma- was completed in 1918 and FPO

SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM inhabited entirely by Americans, a his life, he was a newspaper editor, nently. replaced an earlier version

PAUL MARKOW PAUL built with pink bricks.

16 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 17 Hotel St. Michael was one of Thumb Butte (pictured, center), Prescott’s first modern hotels, a prominent hunk of granite rising designed in the Second Renais- over Prescott, can be accessed via sance Revival style. Many illustri- a 2.1-mile loop trail. The butte is ous visitors, including Theodore closed to rock-climbing from mid- Roosevelt, have stayed there. December to mid-July to protect nesting peregrine falcons, but the Pah-Ute County was created in trail and nearby picnic center are 1865. open year-round.

In 1870, the population of Prescott In 1876, the Prescott Free Academy was 666. opened on what is now the campus of Washington Traditional School.

Prescott’s first “Christmas Celebration” took place in 1954 on Courthouse Plaza.

Rocks as old as 1.8 billion years have been discovered in the Prescott area.

Watson Woods Riparian Preserve was established in 1995 after years of mistreatment of the area

from livestock grazing, gravel KEITH CHRISTINE withdrawal, unlawful dumping and other hazards. The preserve trick. Camping spots along the Sharlot Hall was a poet, an a museum, which grew into what comprises 125 acres of land, start- way offer respites for trekkers who activist, a politician and, perhaps we know today as Sharlot Hall ing at Watson Lake and extending would rather not complete all most importantly, Arizona’s Museum. It includes seven historic southwest along State Route 89. 45 miles in one day. Territorial historian. Early on, she buildings, numerous exhibits exam- Prescott’s centennial was For those who want to venture recognized the importance of sav- ining the history of Central Arizona, featured on the cover of Arizona inside, there are plenty of hikes, In July 1957, Prescott’s second ing Arizona’s history, and thus, she and a rose garden honoring women Highways in April 1964. interpretive signs and opportuni- radio station, KNOT, took to the began collecting documents and of Territorial Arizona. For history ties to see wildlife. airwaves. artifacts. She eventually started buffs, the museum’s Library and The Phippen Museum, named Archives are a gold mine of rare after the first president of the The Central Arizona Railroad Tucked away in the trees, White and original books, documents, Cowboy Artists of America, fea- arrived in Prescott on December Spar Campground is a short drive photographs and maps. The library tures art from the American West. 31, 1886. from the center of Prescott. Two is open to the public on Wednes- For information, call 928-778-1385. trails start near the 57 campsites: days, Thursdays and Fridays, from The Hassayampa Inn was Goldwater Lakes Trail and School- noon to 4 p.m., and Saturdays, by Morris Goldwater, one of the most originally financed by hundreds house Gulch Trail 67. appointment. For information, call influential merchants in the Terri- of Prescott residents who bought 928-445-3122. tory, arrived in Prescott in 1876. shares for $1 apiece. The hotel, Because Yavapai Campground which was finished in 1927, is a is a stone’s throw away from the Granite Mountain rises from the SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM Experimental telephones were member of the Historic Hotels of Granite Dells, Watson Lake and 9,799-acre Granite Mountain The Arizona Pioneers Home Frank M. Murphy and Johnny Duke, Prescott. Make noise while hiking installed at Fort Whipple in the America. Granite Basin Lake, it’s the perfect Wilderness northwest of Prescott. opened in 1911. It still serves to repay the faithful and longtime wilderness trails to alert bears to 1870s. launching pad for numerous activi- The Yavapai-Prescott Indian Tribe its original purpose today as a Arizona residents who helped your presence. You might also see For hikers, cyclists and horseback ties: water sports, hiking, picnick- considers it a sacred site. Much of continuing-care retirement home. pioneer and build the state. mountain lions, coyotes, foxes or The Sisters of St. Joseph arrived riders looking for a long haul, the ing, photography and more. For the wilderness was devastated in The Arizona Pioneers Home began javelinas. The latter can weigh up in Prescott in 1878 to establish a Prescott Circle Trail, which loops information, call 928-433-8000 or June 2013 by the Doce Fire, which as the brainchild of three promi- Many woodland creatures to 65 pounds and live in herds that

hospital and a school. around the city, should do the visit www.fs.usda.gov/prescott. LIBRARY STATE ARIZONA burned 6,767 acres. nent Prescott citizens, A.J. Doran, inhabit the wilderness surrounding average eight or nine animals.

18 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 19 week costs $555. For information, of the Grand Canyon, and it’s nearly is a half-mile from Lynx Lake, which call 800-660-1385. equidistant from Phoenix and was created in the early 1960s, and Flagstaff — 100 miles from Phoenix features 35 spacious campsites In the April 1964 issue of Arizona and 97 miles from Flagstaff. surrounded by junipers, ponderosa Highways, Prescott resident Pau- pines and manzanitas. For informa- line Henson described the Prescott The Groom Creek Loop Trail, a tion, call 928-443-8000 or visit National Forest as the perfect moderate hike a few miles from www.fs.usda.gov/prescott. union of “adventure, solitude and downtown Prescott, takes hikers SUZANNE MATHIA SUZANNE refreshment.” An average of 300 to the top of Spruce Mountain. trees per acre populate the forest’s The nonprofit Prescott Creeks The 100 block of South 145,000 acres of ponderosa pines. Preservation Association was Montezuma Street in downtown The finest bar on old Whiskey established in 1990 to protect and Prescott is known as Whiskey Row was Bob Brow’s Palace If Whiskey Row isn’t your thing, restore waters in Central Arizona Row, a nickname that evokes the saloon, which opened around perhaps Antiques Row is. North while educating communities street’s history of raucous saloons. 1877 and was a haunt for cowboys Cortez Street is packed with about their importance. The 1900 Whiskey Row fire, pos- and miners. In the 1900 fire, the antiques shops. sibly started by a miner’s fallen Palace went up in flames. Patrons The Prescott Elks Theatre candle, ripped through Prescott rescued the saloon’s 24-foot-long Prescott is home to two of the wouldn’t exist were it not for a fra- and destroyed $1.5 million worth carved-mahogany bar along with state’s 11 official Witness Trees, ternal order called the Benevolent of homes and businesses, a most of the liquor, took the trea- which are trees that have with- and Protective Order of Elks. In considerable sum at the time. The sures to the plaza and operated stood Arizona’s entire statehood. 1904, its Prescott members pro- city’s denizens barely skipped a an improvised bar before the fire

GEORGE H.H. HUEY The trees were dedicated during posed the theater, then called the beat — they resumed business was extinguished. The Palace was Arizona’s Centennial in 2012. Elks Opera House, as an addition as quickly as possible and rebuilt reopened in 1901 and is in business SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM Prescott’s wild neighbor, to their lodge, and city residents a sturdier downtown by 1902. today — with the same bar. In 1878, the pink-brick courthouse the Prescott National Forest, Pets are allowed on the 28 miles eagerly supported and funded it. (See related story, Whiskey Row: was completed on Courthouse encompasses 1.25 million acres of that make up Prescott’s Mile-High The Elks Opera House opened on Portrait of a Street, on page 24.) Lynx Campground, which is 15 Plaza. It was torn down in 1916 and everything from desert landscapes Trail System, as long as they’re on February 20, 1905, with a romantic minutes from downtown Prescott, replaced with the neoclassical build- to expanses of ponderosa pines. leashes. At least 20 trails in the play called Marta of the Lowlands. Prescott is roughly a two-and-a- is open from April through October ing that stands today. Originally called the Prescott system are bike-friendly, and more General admission cost $2.50. half-hour drive from the South Rim for $18 per night. The campground Forest Reserve, it was established than a dozen are open to horses. The lowest temperature ever by President William McKinley on recorded in Prescott was -21 May 10, 1898. The next year, it was More than 360 bird species have degrees on January 22, 1937. The enlarged to protect trees from been spotted in the Prescott area highest temperature ever recorded being illegally cut down. In 1908, it since 1974. In particular, Willow was 105 degrees on July 17, 1925. acquired its current name. and Watson lakes have been Summer high temperatures are designated an Important Bird normally in the 80s, rarely the 90s. Wyatt Earp, famous for the SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM Area. To protect the multitude gunfight at Tombstone’s O.K. From fresh tamales to homegrown Prescott’s first schoolhouse was of birds that call the lakes home, Junior Bonner, which starred Corral, convinced Doc Holliday tomatoes, the Prescott Farmers built circa 1870 by Samuel C. Rogers the city restricts boat usage. On Steve McQueen and was directed (who would be an accomplice in Market offers locally produced on the south end of the current Watson Lake, there is a no-wake by Sam Peckinpah, was set in the shootout) and his wife, Mary foods and crafts from more than campus of Mile High Middle School. rule; boats must have limited Prescott. The movie was released Katharine Haroney, to move to 60 vendors. For information, call It burned down in 1948. horsepower. On Willow Lake, only in 1972. Prescott in 1879. 928-713-1227. kayaks or canoes are allowed. For more than 70 years, YMCA In the early 1900s, Arizonans An average of 20 inches of snow Every year for more than a Camp Sky-Y has been the perfect If you spot a building in the middle voted for a statewide alcohol ban, falls in Prescott annually. quarter-century, poets and musi- summer getaway for kids ages 7 to of the city that looks like a Native which went into effect January 1, cians have gathered in Prescott to 16: no parents and plenty of American pueblo, that’s the Smoki 1915. However, the people of In 1935, the U.S. government des- celebrate something they all love: adventure. During their stay, Museum. Constructed in 1935 of Prescott basically ignored the new ignated 75 acres of tribal land for cowboys. The Arizona Cowboy campers can participate in archery, stone and wood, the museum law. They continued drinking on the Yavapai-Prescott Indian Tribe. Poets Gathering meets in August ceramics, rock-climbing, moun- focuses on Native American art Whiskey Row, mostly as usual, Today, the tribe occupies about and works to preserve the heritage tain-biking, canoeing and other and culture. For information, call except the bars were moved to

1,400 acres surrounding Prescott. of the American West. outdoor and artistic activities. One 928-445-1230. SOCIETY HISTORICAL ARIZONA backrooms and basements.

20 MAY 2014 21 funds. It did, making the Prescott Public Library the first Carnegie library in Arizona. Today, the Gurley Street building is a rental property.

More than 5,500 miniature model airplanes, called the Kalusa Col- lection, are showcased at Embry- Riddle Aeronautical University. Ac- cording to Guinness World Records, it’s the world’s most extensive collection of handmade airplanes.

Twice a year, in spring and late summer, the Arizona Wildlife Federation hosts a weekend camp for women in Prescott — no men allowed. “Becoming an Outdoors Woman” allows women 18 and older to participate in various out- door activities, such as campfire cooking, rappelling, fly-fishing and

COURTESY OF NANCY BURGESS NANCY OF COURTESY navigating. The registration fee covers activities, meals and lodg- From 1908 to 1914, automobile garage for the Prescott & Mount ing for the weekend. For informa- racers zoomed from Los Angeles Union Railway, the Arizona General tion, call 480-644-0077.

to Phoenix in the annual Cactus Supply Co., a hardware store and RICK GOLDWASSER Derby. The last year, the race was Stockman’s Bank. Prescott hosts the “World’s lengthened by 132 miles to include Oldest Rodeo,” which may or The gnarled, knobby boulders Prescott. Citizens lined the streets, In 2012, U.S. News & World Report may not actually be the oldest, at Watson Lake, called the Granite Celebrate the eagerly waiting for the cars to zip named Embry-Riddle Aeronautical according to a 1989 New York Dells, were formed over millions of through town. University’s Prescott campus the Times article that identifies three years of lava activity and erosion. Sesquicentennial third-best college in the nation cities (Prescott, Payson and Pecos, Prescott is planning a Prescott sits at an elevation of for aerospace, aeronautical and Texas) that make the same claim. Prescott’s municipal airport was series of events to mark 5,400 feet above sea level. astronautical degrees. named Ernest A. Love Field to its 150th birthday, in- commemorate a first lieutenant of cluding a Sesquicenten- “Prescott is probably one of the State Route 69 used to extend all the U.S. Army Air Service who was nial Kickoff Celebration least haunted cities in America,” the way from Prescott to Phoenix. raised in Prescott. Love’s plane the weekend of May 30. declares Parker Anderson, a MAACK RICHARD Today, the 33-mile-long highway was shot down in France during For a full list of sesqui- Prescott playwright and actor, in Victorian architecture is com- only connects Prescott to Inter- World War I. centennial events, visit an article for Sharlot Hall Museum. mon in Prescott. The first person state 17, which is the fastest route the Prescott Office of We’re not sure who keeps statis- to build a Victorian-style home in between the cities. Prescott’s sister cities are Caborca, Tourism at www. tics on purported hauntings, but town was Judge Edmund W. Wells, SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM Mexico, and Suchitoto, El Salvador. visit-prescott.com. even if Anderson is right, Prescott’s in 1878. The real shift to Victorian- The 1900 Whiskey Row fire burned The oldest planned community Club, was a place where Phoenix ghost stories endure. Abby era styles, however, took off during books that the Monday Club, a in Arizona is the Mountain Club, residents spent summer months Prescott College was established Prescott’s Chamber of Byr, a spirit said to haunt Hotel the 1890s. women’s group, had stockpiled which was started in 1926 as because of its cooler climate and in the 1960s with a mission to Commerce, located at 117 Vendome, is one of the city’s most for a future public library. After an “experiment in resort living,” relaxing location among pine trees solve the world’s social and envi- W. Goodwin Street, pro- famous ghosts. Prescott’s largest independent the fire, philanthropist and robber as a longtime resident, the late a mile from Prescott’s center. ronmental issues. vides visitors with infor- bookstore is the Peregrine Book baron Andrew Carnegie promised Ruby Schmieder, says in her book mation, maps and things The area of Prescott is 41.6 square Co., located at 219A N. Cortez to fund half of a public library in Prescott’s Unique Mountain Club. More than 700 buildings in Prescott was designated “Arizona’s to do. For information, miles. In 2010, the city’s population Street. This address previously Prescott as long as the community The neighborhood, originally Prescott are listed on the National Christmas City” by Governor Rose call 800-266-7534. was nearly 40,000. was, at different times, a streetcar raised the rest of the necessary KEN AKERS called the Hassayampa Mountain Register of Historic Places. Mofford in 1989.

22 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 23 WHISKEY ROW PORTRAIT OF A STREET By Charles C. Niehuis [An excerpt from our October 1938 issue] SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM

HEY BUILT THE FIRST ONE OUT OF LOGS, down on Granite Creek, and called it the Quartz Rock Saloon; that was back in 1864. But, as one Old Timer said, “The sight of water made the customers sick,” so they built the rest of ’em up on Montezuma Street and called it Whiskey Row. By 1874 there was a full block of saloons and gambling halls, where, they say, the best “gambleers” of the world took postgraduate courses in games of chance. That block became the epitome of the Old West. Taking advantage of poetic license, let’s call a halt in the march of time, and retreat to the middle eight- T ies. Here we go down on the Row to live again, one night, with some of the characters who made it famous. 24 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 25 the bar, we saw Dan Thorne, propri- the clutching hands of a dance hall girl off who is tending bar, greets us heartily and etor, climb up on the polished mahogany. our elbows, and pick up our drinks. we order drinks from him. He is gloriously drunk! “Yip-yip-yip- Billy Mulvenon, sheriff of Yavapai Mike Hickey, usually the most genial of eeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Go to it soldier, give County, walks in as we finish. Vander- Irishmen, comes in and we have a drink those gamblers hell!” bilt greets him, “Hi, Sheriff!” Mulvenon on him. He’s the co-partner of Burke, and We slip along the bar and out of the orders straight whiskey, and stands silent. they have the Burke-Hickey Hotel on the door — just in time! A flying squad of Vanderbilt continues, “See you got corner of Gurley and Montezuma — on M.P.’s from the post, go roaring into the the Grahams in the jail tonight. Are the the end of Whiskey Row. Tonight Mike saloon. Tewksburys comin’ in?” seems a trifle on the morose side. He Breathing a sigh of relief, we push our “Yep, they rode in late’s ’evenin’. It’s the waves his glass before he downs it. way through the crowd and up the street only way I can keep ’em separated. The “Boys, I’m lettin’ you know; Tom Hal- and turn into the wide door of the Cob- Tewksburys’ll be in jail tomorrow, and lahan’s a’gunnin’ for me. This may be my last drink!” We’re standing in back of Mike, he’s between us and the door. We step out from behind Mike as the swinging doors of the saloon crash against the wall. In strides Tom Hal- lahan! Mike, crouching slightly, the fin- It’s Saturday night, and the boardwalk where. It’s payday at Fort Whipple and ABOVE: This photograph shows gers of his right hand resting lightly is packed with jostling, noisy, pleasure- they’re in to gamble and drink. The fitful Prescott’s Montezuma Street in the on the edge of the bar, speaks, “Here early 1890s. Cobweb Hall, “the only bent cowboys, prospectors, miners and yellow glare of smoking oil lamps lights two-bit saloon in town,” is on the left, I am, Tom — and ready!” soldiers. We split our throats on a cow- up the place. and the Hotel Burke — referred to as Hallahan pushes his hat back boy yell, and it’s echoed by some cele- “Round and round it goes; where the the Burke-Hickey Hotel in this excerpt slowly with his right hand, and — is on the right. brating caballero on the other end of the ball stops nobody knows.” starts stepping sideways, edging RIGHT: The Burke’s bar featured ample Row. We see no cold-eyed, deft-fingered, It’s the sing-song from the dealer of spittoons, as well as cigars. around with each step. Mike turns as frock-coated gamblers because they’re all the roulette wheel! The click of the chips slowly, facing Hallahan. His fingers inside “working.” sounds as the men “get down” with slide off the bar, but the hand doesn’t And we meet no women except those their bets. The dealer’s voice drones out: He slips the cards out of the box! Bedlam drop. Mike is waiting. in the saloons, and they will be dance-hall “Nine, red and odd, pay the winners and breaks loose! Hallahan begins biting off words, “I girls. Of course no respectable women are get down for the next roll.” The cases are wrong and the told you if you messed around with that seen on Whiskey Row tonight. But they do Deft fingers pick up the ivory ball from drunken soldier grabs the faro table gal of mine I was going to shoot you!” invade the Row en masse on New Year’s the cup of the turning wheel and send it and overturns it in the dealer’s lap. We Mike answers evenly, “Well, Tom, Eve — gala night of the year — dressed spinning, faster than sight, around the scramble to safety behind the bar; and I’m still a-waitin’.” and masked so as to be absolutely anony- groove. none too soon! Cuspidors fly, comet-like, Hallahan explodes — temper and mous. Queer custom of the roaring Old Chips click again as we walk past the through the air. Chairs and tables crash gun! His first shot misses, and goes West that allowed its good women to see crap [sic] table. on the heads of soldiers, and gamblers, into the back-bar mirror. Before he how the other half lived! “Who’s that on the high-legged chair alike. can shoot again, Mike has shot and SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM (2) Whoa, careful there — watch your with his hat pulled low over his eyes and The biggest free-for-all Whiskey Row missed. feet! The level of the walk has its ups and a sawed-off shotgun across his knees?” ever saw is under way. What a fight! web, the only two-bit saloon in town. the Grahams’ll have the run of the streets. Tom Hallahan pauses. Mike has his downs. We step up to one level in front you ask. He’s the lookout! If a hold-up or A hundred men, swinging bottles, Other places are twelve and a half cents a Can’t let ’em both out at the same time pistol between his knees, working the of one store, and drop down to planks trouble should occur you’d see him blaze chairs, table legs, spittoons — anything drink, or two for a quarter — they don’t ’cause they’ll get to shootin’ and wreck the action like mad. He slaps the cylinder! It’s laid on the ground in front of another. into action! that’ll knock a man out — are milling in have nickels and dimes on the Row. town. Damn this feudin’, anyway!” jammed! If the proprietor is wealthy, or even just We stop at the faro table. front of us. The air is sulphurous with Billy Vanderbilt runs this place and The sheriff tips his head back and the The white heat of anger leaves Tom. doing well, he’ll build his walk up off the The dealer is down to the last three curses, shouts and yells! that’s he at the end of the bar, the bald whiskey slides down his throat. “Aw, let’s call it off, Mike. She ain’t ground. Must be rough going for some of cards. Soldiers lean forward to make the A man goes down, to be lost from sight headed fellow with the handlebar mus- Well, let’s go see the Cabinet before we worth it!” these boys that have had several snorts last play on the deal. They look at the by a rush of feet. tache, drinking with a couple of cronies. call it a night. “Not if I get this gun workin’,” pants too many. “cases” kept by [an old-timer] to see what Shots spat into the ceiling as a cow- He’s just finishing a story as we step As we thump down the boardwalk, the slow-to-anger Mike. As we near a saloon, the swinging cards will be the last two and they’ll bet boy steps through the swinging doors, to up. The listeners roar with laughter and we pass Dan Thorne’s place. It’s a wreck! Hallahan raises his 44! He turns five doors open, belching forth three soldiers, on the order of their appearance. join the scrap. He stops. Then a fusillade Billy slaps the bar, saying, “Belly up, boys, But the boys are lined up three and four shots loose into the ceiling. “Now! Forget arm-in-arm, singing, weaving. Let’s go in! A drunken soldier leans over and of shots rings out. Only the stabbing flash and have a drink on the house! Set ’em deep in front of the bar. We get a glimpse it, Mike.” It’s Dan Thorne’s place, saloon and gam- places a stack of chips on one of the cards from his guns lights the darkness. He’s up, Baldy.” of Dan sitting on the end of the bar and Ed Roberts, taking advantage of the bling hall. to show. shot out the lights! Baldy Brown takes our order and men catch a line of a lusty ballad he’s singing. lull, breaks in soothingly — “Belly up, The place is packed! Soldiers are every- “All bets down,” monotones the dealer. Just before the last one went out, over get up from tables to get theirs. We shake As we enter the Cabinet, Ed Roberts, boys, it’s on the house.”

26 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 27 A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA

may flowers In places like Minnesota, Michigan and Maine, April showers are usually a given. In the Southwest, however, where rain is rare and a A common sunflower blooms decade-long drought has at Sunset Crater Volcano made it even more so, there’s National Monument near Flag- no guarantee. Nevertheless, staff. | PAUL GILL CAMERA: Canon EOS 5D Mark Mother Nature usually finds a III; SHUTTER: 1/500 sec; way to deliver, and when she APERTURE: f/8; ISO: 1250; does, our photographers are FOCAL LENGTH: 100 mm there to capture the moments.

28 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 29 Sunflowers and four o’clocks surround tree trunks at Bonito Park in Northern Arizona. | SHANE MCDERMOTT A PORTFOLIO CAMERA: Nikon D3S; SHUTTER: 4 sec; APERTURE: f/16; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 35 mm

30 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 31 “Deep in their roots, all flowers keep the light.” Left: Blue grama grass and globemallows crowd a meadow at Buffalo Park in Flagstaff. | TOM BROWNOLD A PORTFOLIO CAMERA: Canon EOS 5D Mark II; SHUTTER: 1/80 sec; APERTURE: f/7.1; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 200 mm — Theodore Roethke Above: Desert evening primrose blooms next to a tranquil pool in the West Clear Creek Wilderness. | RANDY PRENTICE CAMERA: Toyo 45AR; FILM: Fujichrome Velvia 50; SHUTTER: 3 sec; APERTURE: f/45; ISO: 50; FOCAL LENGTH: 75 mm

32 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 33 Multicolored wildflowers sprout from the greenery of Government Prairie west of Flagstaff.

| SHANE MCDERMOTT CAMERA: Nikon D800; SHUTTER: 1/8 sec; APERTURE: f/16; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 17 mm

34 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 35 “I hold no preference among flowers, so long as they are wild, free, spontaneous.” — Edward Abbey A PORTFOLIO Left to Right: Petals and thorns radiate from the centers of thistle blooms along the Florence-Kelvin Highway. | EIRINI PAJAK CAMERA: Canon EOS 5D Mark II; SHUTTER: 1/1000 sec; APERTURE: f/7.1; ISO: 320; FOCAL LENGTH: 100 mm; 20 images stacked

A cluster of wholeleaf Indian paintbrushes reaches skyward in Flagstaff. | EIRINI PAJAK CAMERA: Canon EOS 5D Mark II; SHUTTER: 1/500 sec; APERTURE: f/5.6; ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 100 mm; 20 images stacked

A birdbill dayflower blooms in the Prescott National Forest. | EIRINI PAJAK CAMERA: Canon EOS 5D Mark II; SHUTTER: 1/800 sec; APERTURE: f/2.8; ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 100 mm; 23 images stacked

36 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 37 “There are always flowers for those who want to see them.” Left: New Mexico locusts mingle with aspens on the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. | DEREK VON BRIESEN — Henri Matisse A PORTFOLIO CAMERA: Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III; SHUTTER: 1/250 sec; APERTURE: f/8; ISO: 800; FOCAL LENGTH: 400 mm

Above: After a storm, green ferns and wildflowers cloak ponderosa-pine and aspen trunks at Hart Prairie near Flagstaff. | SHANE MCDERMOTT CAMERA: Nikon D3S; SHUTTER: 8 sec; APERTURE: f/16; ISO: 200; FOCAL LENGTH: 62 mm

38 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 39 Left: Sunflowers blanket a hillside under a blue sky at Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. | PAUL GILL A PORTFOLIO CAMERA: Canon EOS 5D Mark III; SHUTTER: 1/15 sec; APERTURE: f/22; ISO: 100; FOCAL LENGTH: 47 mm

Above: A bee extracts nectar from a coneflower along the West Fork of Oak Creek. | DEREK VON BRIESEN CAMERA: Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III; SHUTTER: 1/80 sec; APERTURE: f/3.2; ISO: 400; FOCAL LENGTH: 100 mm

40 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 41 Heroes and Their Joe Brown’s father didn’t buy a lot of new hats, and when he did, he rode Hats them as hard the first hour as he did the day they fell apart. Tom Mix, on the other hand, a family friend of the Browns, always wore a new hat, usually a 7X beaver creased in a Montana peak.

AN ESSAY BY J.P.S. BROWN ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRIS GALL

42 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 43 think her “nervine” was Old Grand-Dad bourbon whiskey. have lasted me a long time, but I never wore them. To not She didn’t like it but figured she needed it. Whiskey rem- wear them was sure a good way for them to last a long edied every malady in our family, diagnosed or not, and it time, but I never even saw them again after I had to go tasted bad enough to make her hope it was medicinal. away to boarding school in Santa Fe. The night before the last session with the doctor, she Tom Mix was dressed in a new three-piece suit and a had called Granny with news that the doctor might release new hat, the same kind of 7X beaver that the men in my me so we could go home. One by one, my dad and little family wore. His was creased in a Montana peak. My Uncle sister Sharon, Dad’s partners and my uncles arrived at the Buster creased his hat that way from time to time, too. hotel to see if we needed them. Uncles Joe and Buster Sor- The way Tom Mix looked in his new hat and suit, fresh rells traveled to Tucson together. Their brother, haircut and shiny boots made me stand back and Fred, who drove the Greyhound bus from Douglas compare him to my dad. I don’t think Dad even to Tucson, showed up, too. Uncle George Kimbro He just owned a suit. Everybody in the world knew Tom was the last one to join the roundup. Each one had Mix and my dad were cowboys by the way they cowboyed up when Granny called them about me dented dressed, but Dad was more of a real one and not without knowing their partners would have the near as fancy. same idea. in the Dad’s hats did not stay new for long. He usually My ear never bothered me again. The bartender bought a new one when he sold his cattle in the in the Santa Rita was already a good friend of crown fall so he would look good while he celebrated in ours and kept my shot glass full of beer. Everyone on one town. It did not look good more than a day or two, wanted to make sure my ear healed properly. Sha- though. His celebrations lasted from two weeks to ron, who was called “Curly Girl” by the crew, held side or a month, and his new hats turned ramshackle by forth with a glass of the new Shirley Temple drink the time he left town. and got as wild as any veteran party girl. another He never put a good hat away in a box so it Roy Adams’ wife, Helen, came with him. She with would stay clean and keep its shape for a time could party harder than anybody. A few minutes when he needed to look good in public. He bought after they arrived, Roy whispered something in her his fist. himself the best 7X beaver hats and rode them as ear. She smiled, nodded her head and left the bar. hard the first hour as he did the day they fell apart. Twenty minutes later she came back on the arm of When he decided he needed a new one, probably Tom Mix and introduced him to me. He handed a year later, he left the old one in the store when me a pair of buckskin chaps with “Joey” branded on the he put the new one on. He never had a new hat blocked or flaps over the pockets. steam-creased. He just dented in the crown on one side or My first three years of formal education were room in the Kentucky Heights Boarding House. Tom Mix was my favorite movie-show cowboy, mostly another with his fist and went on outside with the brim To make sure I didn’t revert to illiteracy, my because he was a friend of my folks. He looked enough like straight and level. given me at Lincoln School in Nogales. I missed most of the second year, mother put me in Saints Peter and Paul Catholic my uncles to be their full brother. He talked to me as if It obtained its cowboy creases and shape with use. He 1937, with an earache. My mother worked at the county assessor’s School. After I’d been under the supervision of a he’d known me all my life. used his left hand to refit it on his head when he needed tall, skinny and very stern nun for about a week, “Joey, I’ve been anxious to meet you,” he said. “Those to, so that side of the brim soon turned up higher than the office for John Elias, so I was laid up in Granny Maude Sorrells’ house on Dr. Smith called me in for my first treatment. chaps are my get-well present.” right side, and the front gradually got pulled down until it the Tucson Road. My 2-year-old sister, Sharon, stayed there, too. I climbed into a tall chair in his office. He All I could do right then was shake his hand and stare was just right to shade his eyes. To even it out, he usually brandished a shiny spear and came at me under at his face. grabbed the two sides in both hands when he picked it up Every once in a while my dad’s partners in the ABC a surgical mask, took hold of my head, lanced an abscess “How’s your little horse, Pancho?” he asked. I’d left and squeezed, then he’d cram it on his head clear to his Cattle Co., Roy Adams and Herb Cunningham, stopped in my ear and held it over a basin while it drained. My Pancho back in our camp in the Sierra de San Juan when I ears and pull it down in front. When he partied, he pushed in to visit. Their cowboys, my uncles Buster Sorrells and mom stood close by my side until she got a look at the came out of Mexico to start school the year before. it to the back of his head, a media cabeza, and cocked it over George Kimbro, stopped to visit me every time they drove corruption that I had carried around next to my brain for “You know Pancho?” I asked. to one side so people could see his face and know how to Nogales. I cowboyed with them when I was healthy eight months. Then, she fainted and bumped her head on “Not in person, but I’ve heard a lot about him.” much fun he was having. He bought a new hat right after and had partnered with them my whole life. the way to the floor. After she revived, Dr. Smith helped “Your horse Tony’s sure good-looking,” I said. he got a haircut during his first hours in town. A day or My dad had been sending them cattle from the Sierra her to a couch. He then turned back to me, swabbed out “He’s a good horse. You and I are well-mounted, aren’t two later, it looked like an old hat. de San Juan in Mexico and was due to come home any my ear with cotton, smeared it with iodine and turned me we?” Our party in the Santa Rita did not disperse until dark. day. When they drove those herds down the highway past loose. “Pancho’s off down at La Morita.” Tom Mix came out to see us off when we drove away. He Granny’s house from Nogales, Sonora, to the Baca Float I had not even had time to beller. A week later, he did “I hear you’ve been making a hand down there, Joey. stood alone with his hat cocked in a whiskey slant and Ranch on the American side, Granny would wrap me in the same thing to another abscess that the first had hid- Good man. When you going back?” watched us until we turned the corner out of sight. Our a blanket and sit me on her front porch so I could watch den and turned me loose for good. My poor mother stayed “Maybe next summer after I get out of school.” whole outfit then converged on the Kentucky Heights them go by. out of the room for that one. “Roy and Helen told me you were sick. I had to drive over Boarding House, loaded our belongings and took us home Dr. Gonzales, who had been born and raised in the Dr. Smith’s office was next door to the Santa Rita Hotel, here, so I asked a friend in the wardrobe department at the to Nogales. Philippines, came to see me once a week and told Granny the only place where all the Southern Arizona cattlemen, studio to make you a pair of chaps. They’re real buckskin. Hats and boots were important to us. No cattleman, to keep warm olive oil in my ear. That winter, after his traders, cowboys and their families congregated when Roy told me how big you are. I hope they fit.” trader or cowboy could be fully dressed without his hat remedy failed, he arranged for my mother to take me to they were in Tucson. After that second session with the I thanked him and took the chaps off the table and held and boots. Anyone who had to wear one without the other Dr. Smith, an eye, ear, nose and throat specialist in Tucson. doctor, my mom took me to the Santa Rita bar and gave them against my waist. They were 6 inches too long, but it felt that he might as well go naked in his shorts on a city She thought we would be there quite a while, so we took a me a shot glass of beer while she had a shot of “nervine.” I wouldn’t matter once they straddled a horse. They should street.

44 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 45 Ansel Adams (left) and Alan Ross photograph Mission San Xavier del Bac near Tucson in 1975. Ross had begun working as Adams’ full-time assistant in 1974. I Was in a Darkroom With Ansel Adams For five years, Alan Ross worked as an assistant to world-renowned photographer Ansel Adams, creating prints in the darkroom and traveling into the field with the man he knew as both a teacher and a friend. Here, in his own words, he explains what life was like as a student of one of the greatest landscape photographers of all time. INTERVIEW BY KELLY VAUGHN KRAMER PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY ALAN ROSS

KVK: How long did you work as Ansel Adams’ assistant? AR: I was full time with Ansel in Carmel, California, for five years. Prior to that, I had assisted him during a few workshops in Yosem- ite [National Park]. During my tenure as his assistant, he liked the way I was making his Yosemite Special Edition prints, so he asked me to continue, even after I began my own advertising-photography busi- ness. I’ve been making those prints of his negatives for more than 38 years.

KVK: Where did you spend more time — in the darkroom or in the field? AR: Ansel was 72 when I started working with him, and although he had a lot of energy, he was slowing down — physically, but not mentally. We did a lot of darkroom work. I started working for him in August 1974, and shortly afterward, he started making plans for what would be his final portfolio-set of prints, Portfolio Seven. He had had a longtime close relationship with Polaroid Corp., and because of that, he wanted to include an original, out-of-the-camera black- and-white Polaroid print in each copy, which was the impetus for us to spend a lot of time in the field over the next year and a half.

COURTESY OF THE MINOR WHITE ARCHIVE WHITE MINOR THE OF COURTESY It was wonderful to be out in the field looking for art with him,

46 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 47 “The process was always but Ansel did spend a lot of time in the darkroom. His three favorite activities were KVK: What did he expect from you on a photo shoot? printing ... being on the telephone talking to photographers, politicians and environ- AR: I schlepped the gear, made sure the shutter on an artistic expression of mentalists ... and being on the typewriter writing to photographers, politicians and his camera was cocked … basically, anything he dodging and burning. He environmentalists. needed. It was a typical assisting gig. used a metronome to count KVK: Would you consider him more of a scientist or an artist in the darkroom? KVK: What about the teaching aspect of the seconds and didn’t even AR: Absolutely an artist. Ansel’s notoriety as a technician hasn’t been blown out of relationship? proportion, but it has been misunderstood. He started out in life intending to be a AR: He was incredibly supportive. After I’d been own a timer. He counted concert pianist. When he decided to commit his life to photography, he brought with with him for five years, I’d gotten married and the exposure for everything it a musician’s discipline. He didn’t want to go out on stage and hit a wrong note, so decided it was time for me and my new bride to he practiced and practiced his technique, just like playing scales, but he didn’t have go and carve out our own lives. I decided to pick he did in the darkroom. any interest in technique for its own sake. He just didn’t want to blow it. I really up advertising photography again, and he was Seeing how smoothly like expressing that about Ansel. He didn’t have a passionate streak for the technical really supportive — he knew what that was like. aspects of photography; he just wanted to be good enough to produce the image he There wasn’t a critical edge to the man. everything moved was like had visualized in his mind. KVK: Would he ask for your input, your take on watching a ballet.” KVK: Did you learn any darkroom tricks that were unique to Adams? certain shots? AR: I’m not sure how much I learned that was unique to Ansel, but being in the dark- AR: He was open to various things — mostly loca- room and watching him work was amazing. I never saw him make a straight print tions I suggested. When we were in California,

— just expose the paper to record the negative. The process was always an artistic I was a little more familiar with certain places. ALAN ROSS expression of dodging and burning. He used a metronome I knew of a really neat cemetery I had photo- Ross photographed this area of Tuzigoot National Monument in 1975. Used as farmland in ancient to count seconds and didn’t even own a timer. He counted graphed when I was in college, and I took him times, this land was organized into rice-paddy-like divisions and irrigated in the 20th century to control dust and erosion. the exposure for everything he did in the darkroom. See- there and he made a beautiful shot. He photo- ing how smoothly everything moved was like watching a graphed several things that I had photographed ballet. Ansel was totally in control of how much light was before because he liked something I had seen, but KVK: If you could have taken Adams anywhere in Arizona to make a photograph, given to every part of the paper. I never made technical suggestions. He was where would you have gone? 100 percent in control. AR: Certainly the Four Corners area. Monument Valley. I believe that Ansel KVK: Given the photographic age in which Adams emerged, made some photographs near the goosenecks of the San Juan River. He how do you think he would have felt about today’s digital age? KVK: What did you guys eat when you were on the loved that area and loved the Navajo and Hopi cultures. His home was full AR: He would have loved the digital age. I’m certain of it. road? Did you pack your own snacks? of Southwestern artifacts and pots and kachinas and rugs. AR: We ate out a lot. Ansel had a broad palate, but KVK: Was he playful in the darkroom, or strictly business? we didn’t pack our own food, save for the occa- KVK: Given his notoriety, it seems Adams could have afforded several homes. AR: He had an enormous sense of humor and was a delight sional snack. We always ate breakfast, lunch and Did he care about money and fame? to be around. He loved telling corny jokes and shaggy-dog dinner out on the road. He loved hamburgers. AR: I think he was embarrassed by it, more than anything else. He was a stories. Even if he told something for the seventh time, it hardworking photographer. When he decided to get into photography as was still funny. In the darkroom, my job was to develop. KVK: What type of gear did you take out into the a business in 1930, the first thing he did was put the word out that he was One day, I was at the sink, running 16x20 prints through field? available — for architecture shoots, portraits, anything he could get paid to the developer, and Ansel was cleaning up. He decided to AR: Everything. Ansel tended to take everything do. I don’t think Ansel was ever strapped, but he was always minding his push the garbage down into the can with his foot. He lost with him — I have photographs of him loading pennies. He drove a used Ford LTD, and when he took it to the shop one his balance, and he and the garbage were flat-out on the up the car in the 1930s and ’40s. He didn’t really day, he poked around the dealership and came home with a used Cadil- floor. He was surrounded by wet paper and developer con- have a favorite lens or anything, but he used an lac. His darkroom didn’t have the best of anything. When money started MIKE WILSONMIKE tainers, but he was laughing to beat the band. He knew he incredible mixed bag of gear. In the late ’50s, to come in, he was very happy that he didn’t have to worry, but the most Alan Ross (center) and was an important figure, but he never lost the ability to laugh at himself. Hasselblad set him up with a nice kit of bodies he ever made for one of his own 16x20 prints was $800. After he stopped Ansel Adams conduct a and lenses. He liked it, and they kept him well up printing himself, photo galleries and dealers garnered much more, but he photography workshop at Point Lobos, California, KVK: Did he like the darkroom process and the possibilities it afforded, or was he happier to date. But the cameras were always just tools, never saw that. In terms of notoriety, he knew he was famous and it helped circa 1977. in the field? just what was best for the job. him. He had relationships with people like presidents Carter and Ford, and AR: There was no conflict there at all — just different efforts. He did love getting out he worked with them on environmental issues, but he always kept himself into the field and was a very hard worker. He had no concept of days off or vacations. KVK: What do you recall of being in Arizona with listed in the phone book. Adams? KVK: How did he work a photo shoot? Was he calculating in terms of scouting locations, AR: I have a neat portrait of the two of us in front KVK: What do you miss most about Ansel Adams? etc., or was he more flexible? of [Mission] San Xavier del Bac. John Schaefer AR: I miss his laugh. He was just a wonderful, wonderful person to be AR: Ansel went wherever the wind took him. He had hunches as to what places might established the Center for Creative Photography around. be of interest, but he had a completely unique vision. We’d drive down the road, and at the University of Arizona, and his first acquisi- I’d try to do the driving so he could look out the window. He’d tell me to slow down or tion was Ansel’s archives. I met Schaefer in 1974, For more information about Alan Ross, visit his website at www.alanrossphotography.com. The Center stop, and then he’d get out. I couldn’t figure out what he was looking at, but he’d frame and we’re still friends. The center was a big deal, for Creative Photography, which houses Ansel Adams’ archives, is located at 1030 N. Olive Road in something. We’d get the gear out, and in a few minutes we had this great Polaroid. and we had a couple of meetings in Tucson. Tucson. For more information, call 520-621-7968 or visit www.creativephotography.org.

48 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 49 Megan Haller (left) and Shannon Zouzoulas have been growing hops at their winery, Arizona Hops & Vines, since 2012. A recent change to state law will allow the sisters to operate a winery and a microbrewery under the same roof.

“This place” is Arizona Hops & Vines. Situated atop one Haller puts it. A wishing wine barrel sits in the middle of the of Sonoita’s many rolling hills, it’s the mad brainchild of two room; Haller says two couples struggling to conceive became fearless sisters, the representation of years of uncertainty, pregnant after tossing their wishes into the barrel. The space heartbreak, blind ambition and perseverance. But burn- matches the personalities of the two sisters: feisty, irreverent burn-burning like fabulous yellow Roman candles didn’t and wonderfully carefree. come naturally at first. “This place is our dream. It’s our vision,” Zouzoulas says. Despite the sisters’ shared enthusiasm for winemaking, “We don’t have to compromise for anybody else.” Zouzoulas remained uncertain about uprooting her life. A trip to the St. Louis City Museum, where she stumbled upon HEN HOPS & VINES opened in 2012, the sisters Kerouac’s quote etched onto a wall, changed her tune. planned to serve wine and beer — desirous of “I was ending my marriage, and I was scared to pull my everything, it seemed. According to Zouzoulas, kids out of school and move to Arizona,” she says. “But then Haller was intrigued by the similarities between I saw that quote. I took a picture of it and sent it to my sister the two processes, and the prospect became even and said, ‘I’ll do it. Let’s make this happen.’ ” more attractive when the sisters learned that no Haller jumped into action and, with the permission of Wone else in Arizona was growing commercial hops. What the vineyards where she worked, began collecting grape- they didn’t know was that it was illegal to operate a domes- vine cuttings and planting them in her backyard — a risky tic farm winery and a microbrewery under the same roof. move, since the fragile plants might not take hold, but ulti- They could, however, grow hops. mately a necessary one. Though hops take work to grow, they’re much less demand- The Sonoita winemaking region is Arizona’s only Ameri- ing than vines. They’re much more tolerant of sudden climate can Viticultural Area — a federal designation for areas with swings, and they’re less likely to be devoured by vermin. special geological qualities conducive to winemaking (Haller Another unexpected bonus was the state’s booming “loca- says the Sonoita terroir is similar to Burgundy, in France). vore” movement. “People are seeking locally grown hops,” But there was another, more practical reason for the sisters Zouzoulas says. “There’s a huge demand for them, and [the to put down roots in the heart of Sonoita. craft breweries in the state] are asking if we’ll sell it to them.” “This was the only place I knew how to farm,” Haller says. The sisters had stumbled onto a modern-day gold mine. “And with the money we had, it was the only place we could Determined to press on, their only options were to open do it.” a second tasting room on a separate piece of property or Shannon Zouzoulas and Megan Haller aren’t With a budget of $70,000, the sisters purchased an old adobe attempt to change the law. They opted for the latter. home and 10 acres of land. Over the next couple of years, they “When you go to their winery, it’s clear they have some- stereotypical winemakers. The two sisters from toiled: planting each vine clipping by hand, spreading rock and thing special that they’ve created,” says Mark Barnes of the placing flagstone throughout the property, building animal pens Phoenix-based lobbying group Barnes & Associates, which Sibling Revelry California are feisty and irreverent, and they pair and even planting an acre of hops on 15-foot wooden poles. worked with the sisters to change the law. “The community “It was an idea. A brainstorm. We were like, ‘Let’s do it is involved and supportive, their kids are involved, and in potato chips with their wine. But that’s not all. They’re also growing hops to make beer. It all adds and see what happens,’ ” Zouzoulas says. The hops flourished. talking to them, you see the passion that they have — they So did the vines, and eventually, the sisters transformed the have created an innovative concept.” PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW once-crumbling homestead into a decidedly irreverent tasting With Barnes’ help, Senate Bill 1301 was unanimously up to one big get-together down in Sonoita. BY KATHY RITCHIE room where they pair potato chips and Cheetos with wine. passed and signed into law in April 2013. Ninety days later, the sisters were finally able to apply for their microbrewery HEIR STORY BEGINS with a quote from Jack Kerouac: “The only people for me are the mad ones, T’S A WARM SATURDAY afternoon, and Zouzoulas and license, which, per the revised statute, will allow them to the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same Haller are standing behind the bar of the tasting room. sell their own Hops & Vines brew. time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn like fabulous Green Day plays in the background as customers stream Just over a year has passed since SB 1301 became law, and yellow Roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars.” through the front door. Haller describes her sister as Zouzoulas and Haller continue to burn, burn, burn. As of In 2007, life had become uninspiring for sisters Shannon Zouzoulas and Megan Haller. Zouzou- the “people person.” “I’m the winemaker and farmer,” the new year, they were beginning negotiations on a lease- las was living in Washington, D.C., with her husband and three children, contemplating divorce. she says. Today, however, they’re both playing the role to-own deal on the property next door, where they plan to Haller, meanwhile, was in Vail, Arizona, with her own family. She dreamed of opening a winery Iof “people person,” chatting with customers, laughing and grow 10 more acres of hops. with Zouzoulas, and she spent the next several years honing her skills and refining her craft at pouring taste after taste — with a side of barbecue-flavored Had Zouzoulas and Haller been just a few decades ear- various Southern Arizona vineyards, including Callaghan and Sonoita. potato chips. lier, Kerouac might have fallen in love with their place. And “My husband said, ‘That’s never going to happen,’ ” Haller says. “But I thought, ‘I need to make The Kerouac quote is painted on a wall, along with words he might have even penned a line or two about the mad ones this happen.’ ” from Frida Kahlo: “Feet: What do I need you for when I have running around Sonoita. “We always talked about it,” Zouzoulas says. “And we had been trying to figure it out for years, wings to fly?” Crosses, Day of the Dead art, prayer candles never thinking it would be in Arizona, because we’re from California. But this place is gorgeous, and other religious and spiritual symbols are everywhere — Arizona Hops & Vines is located at 3450 State Route 82 in Sonoita. For more and my sister said, ‘This is it; I feel it in my soul.’ ” including the bathroom — to “cover our karmic bases,” as information, call 888-569-1642 or visit www.azhopsandvines.com. 50 MAY 2014 T www.arizonahighways.com 51 scenic drive

Kingman to The Cerbat Mountains and the Grand Wash Cliffs are two of the more prominent landmarks on this drive, but it’s the Joshua trees that add Mountains, a rocky range Pearce Ferry the scenic beauty. BY NOAH AUSTIN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDY PRENTICE that’s home to a herd of wild horses. To the east are the Grand Wash Cliffs, t’s indisputable (in the opinion of one Your drive begins on Stockton Hill on this drive: There are vast swaths of the which bear a striking Arizona Highways writer, anyway) that Road in Kingman, a place whose small- odd-looking plants, and in some places, resemblance to the cliffs I I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For town charm is worth a stop the next they’re so densely packed that their limbs and buttes of the nearby is the best song U2 ever made. And maybe time you pass through on Interstate 40. almost touch. Grand Canyon. There’s Bono and his buddies had a route like Heading north, you’ll leave the city, but The Hualapai Valley is flanked by two more of that to come, so the one to Pearce Ferry, near the eastern not before seeing the road’s namesake, mountain ranges that couldn’t be more keep heading north until bank of Lake Mead, in mind when they Stockton Hill (5,938 feet), on your left. different. To the west are the Cerbat you reach Pierce Ferry recorded 1987’s The Joshua Tree, where that Soon, you’ll enter the Hualapai Valley, and Road, which is spelled dif- song is found. You’ll climb a few moun- it’s here that Yucca brevifolia makes its first OPPOSITE PAGE: Lake Mead is the payoff at the ferently than Pearce Ferry, tains and run through some fields on this appearance. Joshua trees are one of the end of the drive from Kingman to Pearce Ferry. the ultimate destination. BELOW: The Hualapai Valley is a haven for drive, but the real stars of the show are the species predicted to be most imperiled by Joshua trees, which dominate the first half of Then, hang a right. Joshua trees. And there are a lot of them. climate change, but you wouldn’t know it the route. The Joshua trees get even thicker as you con- tinue, and you’ll soon reach Diamond Bar Road. This road leads to the Grand Canyon Skywalk, a tourist attraction on Hual- apai Tribe land. Today, though, continue on Pierce Ferry Road. The road leads into Lake Mead National Recreation Area, where the Joshua trees LAKE MEAD NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Pearce begin to thin as the moonscape of the South Ferry Lake Mead Cove Lake Mead area takes over. Grand Canyon The final 5 miles are the only unpaved Skywalk GRAND CANYON N portion of this drive, but the dirt road NATIONAL PARK O Boulder Y C N 143 o A is well-maintained and smooth. It’s also City lo C Diamond r D G a N Bar Road d G R A dusty, so keep your distance if there’s Pierce Ferry r o a C Road n R o i another vehicle in front of you. You’ll d v l e

o r

r W know you’ve reached Pearce Ferry when a d a HUALAPAI TRIBE o s

h you see a picnic area and restrooms on R 25

i Dolan v Red Lake C your right. You’ll also find information on e li r B Springs 

L s

the history of the area. Pearce Ferry once A H u C a C l was a popular destination for Hoover Dam K e a r p b a a i M tourists, and in the 1930s and ’40s, there t V

O a M l 93 l were plans to build a resort there. U o e 66 Lake Mohave u y N n Today, there isn’t much left. But that’s T t a A i n A I Hackberry

N s OK. The scenery — Grand Canyon cliffs R N

E

I

Z S V Stockton Hill

A O to the east and Lake Mead mountains Road D N start here to the west — is a worthy payoff after a A A 68 40 69-mile journey. It’s where you’ll find what Laughlin Kingman

you were looking for. KEVIN KIBSEY tour guide Road if rain is expected. The road crosses several washes, Note: Mileages are approximate. ADDITIONAL READING: and you should not enter them if they’re flooded. For more scenic drives, pick up a LENGTH: 69 miles one way INFORMATION: Lake Mead National Recreation Area, 702- copy of our book The Back Roads. DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of Interstate 40 and 293-8906 or www.nps.gov/lake Now in its fifth edition, the book Stockton Hill Road in Kingman, go north on Stockton Hill features 40 of the state’s most scenic drives. To order a copy, visit Road for 41.5 miles to Pierce Ferry Road. Turn right onto Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial www.shoparizonahighways.com/ Pierce Ferry Road and continue 27.5 miles to Pearce Ferry. 511 to get infor­ma­tion on road closures, construc­tion, books. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None, but avoid Stockton Hill delays, weather and more.

52 APRIL 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 53 hike of the month

See Canyon The highlight of this hike is Christopher Creek, but the climb to the top of the Mogollon Rim also includes ferns, grasses, oaks, aspens and some Trail massive ponderosas. BY ROBERT STIEVE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICK BEREZENKO

here are two ways to hike this trail. You can either start at the T bottom and work your way up, or you can do it the other way around — there are two-wheel-drive trailheads on both ends. Whichever route you choose, at some point, you’ll have to climb more than 1,700 feet up the face of the Mogollon Rim. It just depends on whether you want to tackle the ascent somewhere in the middle of the march, or postpone it until tinues. To this point, the uphill has been the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests, the end. This description is written for gradual. The real work is still ahead. it doesn’t take your breath away. Not like ADDITIONAL READING: those who would rather not procrastinate. In the meantime, you’ll cross the creek Humphreys Peak or other mountaintops. For more hikes, pick up a copy From the lower trailhead near Christo- again, pass a wonderful campsite and Still, it’s idyllic, and the upper trailhead of Arizona Highways Hiking Guide, which features 52 of the pher Creek (the village), the trail quickly stand in awe of an enormous ponderosa. makes a great place to eat a MOJO bar state’s best trails — one for each crosses Christopher Creek (the waterway) It’s dead — it’s been dead awhile — but and be grateful that the hard part of the weekend of the year, sorted by seasons. To order a copy, visit and heads into the woods. The path at the with a circumference of at least 15 feet, hike is behind you. It’s all downhill from www.shoparizonahighways. outset is rocky dirt, surrounded by lush it’s still impressive. there. com/books. grasses, ferns and a lot of undergrowth. Moving on, you’ll start seeing more

The trees you’ll see are mostly pondero- maples and ponderosas, gnarly oaks and M O sas. Big, old yellow bellies. Within a few a handful of aspens. Mint, ferns and G APACHE-SITGREAVES O L L NATIONAL FORESTS grasses grow along the creek. It’s a beau- O minutes, before you’ve even had your N

R first handful of trail mix, you’ll arrive at a tiful hike, and the best views show up I M M O G small meadow and a large alligator juni- about 45 minutes in. For a few hundred O L L O N per. Ten minutes later, the trail intersects yards, the trail skirts the southern ridge

R I a short spur that leads to See Spring. Veer of the canyon, and then drops down. M

S left and enjoy the surroundings. Beware of flash floods at the bottom, e e

Once you make the turn, the trail especially if you’re hiking during mon- C trailhead a

n Kohls Ranch FR 284 y dips into a small wash. If you’re used to soon season. o the drier ponderosa-pine forests around If the weather’s clear, cross the wash Christopher n Creek Flagstaff, this stretch will seem like a and start scrambling up the opposite TONTO reek rainforest, especially in the spring. With bank. This heading marks the beginning NATIONAL FOREST Christopher C 260 the moisture comes a wave of deciduous of the primary ascent. After 10 minutes of

trees — maples, among others — and huffing and puffing, you’ll scramble over k e e another leap over the creek. To the right a field of boulders, and 15 minutes after r C 87 Star Valley o that, you’ll switchback through a steep t you’ll see signs of the Promontory Fire, n o which was started by some careless area with loose rocks — it’s even trickier T dimwit on May 13, 2007, and eventually on the return. Another creek-crossing Payson HELLSGATE burned more than 4,000 acres. Unlike and another series of switchbacks will 87 WILDERNESS

parts of the White Mountains, where get your attention as you approach the KEVIN KIBSEY new trees shoot up quickly after a fire, final stretch. Although it’s the toughest trail guide the transition here is slower. That said, part of the hike, the last 15 to 20 minutes HORSES ALLOWED: Yes the charred remains are minimal com- go by quickly, despite a few “false sum- LENGTH: 7 miles round-trip USGS MAP: Promontory Butte pared to what you’ll see up the road, mits,” including a broad plateau that’s DIFFICULTY: Moderate INFORMATION: Black Mesa Ranger District, 928-535- ELEVATION: 6,183 to 7,856 feet 7300 or www.fs.usda.gov/asnf where the Rodeo-Chediski Fire burned a sure to fool you. TRAILHEAD GPS: N 34˚20.170’, W 111˚00.842’ half-million acres in 2002. The actual summit is just beyond that DIRECTIONS: From Payson, go east on State Route 260 Back in See Canyon, the climb con- last impostor. You’ll know you’re there for 20.2 miles to the Christopher Creek Loop exit. Turn LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: • Plan ahead and be out all of your trash. when you see the upper trailhead. It’s left onto the loop and continue 1 mile to Forest Road 284. Turn left onto FR 284 and continue 1.5 miles to the prepared. • Leave what you find. LEFT: Christopher Creek is one of the early highlights clearly marked, but it’s nondescript. trailhead. • Travel and camp on • Respect wildlife and of the See Canyon Trail. durable surfaces. minimize impact. OPPOSITE PAGE: The Mogollon Rim looms over See Because the apex of the trail is located VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None • Dispose of waste • Be considerate of Canyon. along Forest Road 300 in the middle of DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) properly and pack others.

54 MAY 2014 www.arizonahighways.com 55 where is this?

March 2014 Answer & Winner Childs hydroelectric plant on Fossil Creek. Congratulations to our winner, Lavance Gentry of Lake Charles, Louisiana. MICHAEL D’AVY MICHAEL

Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly iden- tify the location pictured at left and email your answer to editor@ arizonahighways. com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be chosen in a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries

DAWN KISH DAWN must be postmarked by May 15, 2014. Only the winner will be notified. Let There Be Light The correct answer will be posted in our July issue and online at This structure is one of several built on the site of an old mining camp in Western Arizona. “Quirky” is a good www.arizonahighways. way to describe the overall setting, which serves as a popular watering hole for locals and tourists alike. If com beginning June 15. you’re thinking of visiting, aim for the cooler months — this place shuts down in the summer. — NOAH AUSTIN

56 MAY 2014