SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

SWELL CATAMARANS

Shadow Assembly Instructions SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

SWELL CATAMARANS Shadow Assembly Instructions

Disclaimer While the content of this document arises from careful study, the author cannot in any way guarantee the suitability of any recommendations made, and shall not be under legal liability of any kind in respect of or arising from the content of this document or any error therein, or the reliance of any person thereon. The author makes no representations or warranties, express or implied, of any type whatsoever.

Author: Tim Swinburn 3.0, September 2002

© Loday White Ltd 160 Tower Street, Brightlingsea, Essex, UK

Loday White Ltd (UK): Phone +44 (0)7050 260201 • E-mail [email protected] Loday White Ltd (France): Phone +33 (0)240 623 555 • E-mail [email protected]

http://www.swell-catamarans.co.uk

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Table of Contents

Introduction 3 Daggerboards 27 Hulls & trampoline 5 Rudders 27 Trampoline 5 Crossbar & tiller 27 blocks 6 Maintenance 29 Dolphin striker 6 Before every 29 7 After every sail 29 Spreaders & diamond wires 7 Periodically 29 Main 9 Annually 29 the mast 9 Parts and accessories 31 Raising the mast 11 Accessories 31 adjusters 12 Spare Parts 31 Mast rake and rig tension 12 Mast rotation 14 14 14 Lowering the mast 15 Mainsail 17 Batten tension 17 Hoisting the mainsail 17 Downhaul 18 18 Mainsheet 18 Traveller 18 Lowering the mainsail 19 Spinnaker 21 Outhaul, halyard, downhaul, sheets 21 Hoisting the spinnaker 24 Dropping the spinnaker 25 Foils 27

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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Section

Introduction The Shadow is a single-handed catamaran with mainsail and spinnaker. It has been designed for high-performance sailing. The boat uses simple control systems and high quality fittings, with the lightweight hulls constructed from 1 Kevlar foam sandwich for maximum durability. These Assembly Instructions are intended to assist you in assembling the Shadow, provide guidance with initial settings and make recommendations for sailing the boat. These two icons indicate vital information for the safe ICON KEY assembly and use of your Shadow, or suggested settings Vital information from Yves Loday or Tim Swinburn. Suggested setting Vital statistics SCHR handicap 1,07 Portsmouth yardstick 723 LOA 4,80 m Width 2,40 m Spinnaker 9,90 m2 Mainsail 12,95 m2 Mast height 8,0 m Weight (ready to sail) 99,0 kgs Hull construction Kevlar ™ foam sandwich

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Hulls & trampoline The hulls and beams are supplied ready assembled, with the following tasks required before sailing the boat for the first time. Trampoline 2 The boat is supplied with the trampoline and spinnaker chute fitting attached to the front beam. To ensure even tension the trampoline is secured and tensioned by five ropes: two cords which feed from the front beam through the trampoline to the rear beam, by a securing rope from the rear of the trampoline to the rear beam, and by two spinnaker ropes from the side of the trampoline to the hulls. 1. Unroll the trampoline from around the front beam and attach the two trampoline cords to the hasps on each side of the rear beam. Tension each of the cords in turn, and secure with half-hitches.

2. Feed one of the spinnaker block ropes down through the eye in the trampoline, so that the spinnaker block is above the trampoline.

3. Feed the spinnaker block rope through the stainless fitting by the daggerboard, then through the webbing loop on the side of the trampoline. Fully tighten the rope and secure with half hitches.

4. Repeat steps 2. and 3. for the second spinnaker block rope.

5. Feed the trampoline tube through the rear of the trampoline. Attach the rear trampoline securing rope to the centre of the tube so that the trampoline can be tensioned outwards from the centre to each side.

6. Feed one half of the trampoline securing rope around the hasps on the rear beam and the trampoline tube, as shown in the picture; secure with half- hitches. Repeat for the other half of the trampoline securing rope.

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7. Tension the trampoline by pulling through all of the slack in the rear trampoline securing rope, working from the centre out to each side of the trampoline. This may need to be repeated several times to fully tension the trampoline.

8. Re-tension the two trampoline cords on each side of the rear beam, to take up any slack.

9. Re-tension the two spinnaker block ropes, to take up any slack.

Spinnaker blocks 10. Attach the auto-ratchet spinnaker blocks to the in the trampoline. The pressure at which the ratchet mechanism engages in the spinnaker blocks is adjustable, by turning the nut at the end of the block.

Dolphin striker The dolphin striker below the front beam must be tensioned to resist downwards pressure from the mast and rig during sailing. 11. There is an adjuster nut and a lock nut, which should both be loosened to ensure that there is no dolphin striker tension already applied, then adjust the first nut until it is just finger tight on the dolphin striker.

12. Make a mark on the thread above the nut (with a permanent marker), and then tension the adjuster nut with a spanner until the mark is approximately 6mm above the nut.

13. Lock the adjuster nut in place by tightening the lock nut down onto it.

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Mast The rotating Shadow mast uses a lightweight aluminium extrusion, with strength and gust response provided by adjustable spreaders and diamond wires. A mast spanner on the base of the mast controls mast rotation, with 3 control lines led to the sides of the boat. A powerful downhaul system provides control over mainsail shape and power, with control lines led to the side of the boat. Spreaders & diamond wires rake and diamond wire tension determines the response of the mast (and therefore the mainsail) to gusts and to crew weight. If the spreader rake and diamond wire tension are set correctly the mast shape will remain stable and powerful to a suitable point for your crew weight; then as the wind becomes too powerful the forces in the rig will exceed the supporting tension of the diamond wires and the mast will flex and start to de-power the rig.

The Shadow has three settings for spreader rake, selected by the clevis pins attaching the rear of the spreaders to the mast. A. Maximum power (spreaders fully forward): suitable for heavier A crews, or light winds. B

B. Medium power: suitable for most crews and wind conditions. C C. Minimum power (spreaders fully raked): suitable for lighter crews or strong winds.

My spreaders are in the ‘B’ position, which suits my (75 kg) weight well. I am fully powered up in 15 knots of breeze, but can still manage the boat in force 5 gusting 6 conditions.

Attaching spreaders & diamond wires 1. Set the spreaders in your desired position, taping the split rings for security.

2. Hook the top diamond wire fittings into the key-holes in the sides of the mast.

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3. Attach the turnbuckle at the bottom of the diamond wires to the shackle on the front of the mast, taping the split ring for security.

4. Tension the diamond wires with the turnbuckle, until the mast prebend is approximately 38mm (1.5”) – this can be measured by pulling a thin cord tight between the tip and bottom of the mast and measuring the distance from the cord to the mast track.

5. Once the correct prebend is achieved, look down the mast track from the tip. If the mast bends to one side, unfasten the diamond wires and reverse the diamond wires then repeat step 4; if this doesn’t cure the bend some packing will be needed on one diamond wire. Slacken the diamond wires and fit a piece of packing (e.g. a discarded rivet stem or similar diameter piece of stainless steel) between the spreader and diamond wire. Re-tension the diamond wires until the prebend is approximately 38mm (1.5”), then look down the mast track and check for any bend. Repeat with different diameter packing until the mast is straight.

6. Slacken the diamond wires and use silicone sealant to COMPLETELY fill the holes where the top diamond fittings hook into the sides of the mast. 7. Re-tension the diamond wires until the prebend is approximately 38mm (1.5”). Use silicone sealant to completely seal around the diamond fittings, then secure the small protective plastic covers over the diamond fittings with silicone sealant. Take care that the diamond fittings are absolutely sealed in the mast, since any gaps will allow water into the mast and make capsize recovery difficult.

8. Use rigging wire to secure the diamond wires into the spreaders. Use PVC tape around the spreader ends and the front of the spreaders, to reduce the risk of snagging the spinnaker.

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9. Lock the turnbuckle in place with the securing pin to prevent loss of diamond tension during sailing, which could result in rig failure. Main halyard 1. Feed the mainsail halyard around the pulley at the tip of the mast into the mast track.

2. Use a screwdriver or knife-blade to feed the end of the halyard down the track and out through the slot near the base of the mast.

3. Tie a stop knot in the bottom end of the main halyard, and use a stop knot to secure the ring shackle for the mainsail to the other end of the halyard.

Rigging the mast Rigging and raising the mast is easier if the mast support on the trailer is used to support the mast tip while the rigging is attached.

1. Place the mast on its side with the foot of the mast on the mast ball, with the mast ball within the cutout in the fitting on the base of the mast. Place the tip of the mast on the trailer mast support.

2. In preparation for raising the mast, the downhaul blocks should be secured together at the rear of the mast (for example with tape); this will reduce the chance of damaging the blocks while the mast is being raised.

3. Fit the shrouds and to the hounds shackle, with the forestay between the two shrouds. Attach the shackle to the hound fitting on the mast, with the shackle pin passing through a trapeze fitting either side of the hound, so that the trapeze fittings act as spacers between the shackle and the hound fitting.

4. Fully tighten the shackle, and secure with rigging wire.

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5. Attach a piece of thin shockcord between the two shrouds at spreader height. This reduces the likelihood of the spinnaker halyard getting caught behind the spreaders. Ensure that the forestay is in front of this shockcord.

6. Attach the port and starboard shrouds to their plates, securing the split rings with tape. My shrouds are attached to the middle (4th) hole, which gives me mast rake suitable for most conditions. 7. Feed the spinnaker halyard through the halyard block tied to the top of the forestay; ensure that both ends of the spinnaker halyard are IN FRONT of the shockcord between the shrouds.

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Raising the mast Because of it’s light weight one person can raise the Shadow mast, using the spinnaker halyard and to hold the mast up while the forestay strops are tied to the bridle plates. 1. Secure one end of the spinnaker halyard with a bowline around the front beam, by the mast ball.

2. Feed the other end of the spinnaker halyard through the spinnaker outhaul pulley on the bridle. Push the pivoting cover on the spinnaker halyard clutch forward to OPEN the clutch, and then feed the halyard through the clutch.

OPEN

3. Push the pivoting clutch cover back to LOCK the clutch on the spinnaker halyard.

LOCK

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4. Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the spinnaker halyard pulley in the middle of the trampoline, then tie a stop knot in the end of the halyard. Note that the halyard must be pulled from behind the pulley, to prevent the clutch releasing to OPEN mode!

5. Stand on the trampoline near the rear beam with the end of the spinnaker halyard in one hand, lifting the mast as you move towards the front beam; pull the spinnaker halyard through the pulley as the mast is raised, to hold the mast up.

6. Ensure that the spinnaker halyard clutch is still in the LOCK position, and that the spinnaker halyard is securing the mast upright. 7. Step off the trampoline and fasten the port and starboard forestay strops through the shackles on the bridle plates, making sure that both forestay strops are the same length.

8. Once both forestay strops are secured untie the stop knot in the end of the spinnaker halyard, push the pivoting cover on the spinnaker halyard clutch forward to OPEN the clutch. Remove the spinnaker halyard from the clutch and untie the other end of the halyard from the front beam.

Trapeze adjusters The trapeze loops, ropes and shockcord are supplied as an assembly. Feed a trapeze rope through the adjuster on one trapeze wire, and then tie a stop knot in the rope. Pass the other trapeze rope and shockcord under the trampoline and repeat the process for the second trapeze wire. Mast rake and rig tension The shroud plates determine mast rake: attaching the shrouds to lower holes on the shroud plates increases the amount of mast rake and vice versa. The forestay strops control rig tension. Mast rake can be determined by using the trapeze hook and adjuster to measure the distance from the hounds to the rear beam, and then moving

Page 12 SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS forward with the trapeze hook and measuring how far in front of the front beam the bottom of the trapeze hook touches the centreline of the hull. 1. With the mast pointing straight fore and aft lower one trapeze hook until it is just touching the top of the rear beam, at it’s outside edge; cleat the trapeze adjuster in this position.

2. Move forward and measure the point where the bottom of the trapeze hook touches the centreline of the hull. My rake is set so that this point is approximately 125mm (5”) in front of the front beam, which gives me mast rake suitable for most conditions. 3. Adjust the shroud plates and forestay strops and then re-measure the rake until it is set to your preference.

4. Set the rig tension with the forestay strops so that the mast rotation is not unduly restricted; check that the mast can be reasonably easily rotated using the mast spanner. Ensure that both forestay strops are the same length.

5. Lift up the bridle and secure the ring on the shackle to the forestay with a 2mm Spectra strop.

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Mast rotation Feed the mast rotation control line through one of the cleats on the mast spanner, through the on the mast spanner, through the turning block on the trampoline, and then back through the fairlead and second cleat on the mast spanner. Tie off the two ends of the spanner control line with bowlines to the side of the boat (normally to the shrouds) for easy access while sailing. I set my mast rotation upwind so that the spanner is pointing towards the leeward shroud in most conditions. In strong winds I de-rotate the mast so that the spanner points towards the rear of the daggerboard, which helps de-power the mainsail. Downwind I release the spanner to allow maximum rotation. Mainsail downhaul Feed the downhaul control line through one of the swivel-cleats on the side of the mast, through the pulley of one of the downhaul strops, through the turning block on the back of the mast, through the pulley of the second downhaul strop and then through the second swivel-cleat. Tie off the two ends of the downhaul control line with bowlines to the side of the boat (normally to the shrouds) for easy access while sailing. Calibration It may be helpful to use calibration tape on each side of the mast until you become accustomed to how the downhaul affects sail-shape and power. This will enable you to record and re-produce the most effective downhaul settings for different wind conditions and sea-states. Boom The boom is attached to the mast on the , with shockcord to secure the boom to the mast. It is important that this shockcord is looped around the button on the boom, to prevent the boom separating from the mast during a capsize.

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Lowering the mast Lowering the mast can be performed single-handed and is the reverse of the mast raising procedure, using the spinnaker halyard and cleat to hold up the mast while the forestay strops are untied from the bridle plates. Lowering the mast is easier if the mast support on the trailer is used to support the mast tip while the rigging is removed. 1. Position the trailer behind the boat so that the trailer mast support can be used to support the top of the mast.

2. Release the shockcord retaining the boom and remove the boom from the gooseneck.

3. Untie and remove the downhaul control line and mast rotation control line.

4. Untie the spinnaker halyard, outhaul, downhaul and sheets from the spinnaker and remove the spinnaker from the boat.

5. Tie the end of the spinnaker halyard with a bowline around the front beam, by the mast ball.

6. Pull the spinnaker outhaul line out of the outhaul pulley and small double outhaul/halyard pulley.

7. Pull the other end of the spinnaker halyard out of the spinnaker chute, out of the halyard pulley and Spinlock clutch on the trampoline, out of the small double halyard/downhaul pulley, and out of the pulley on the front of the front beam.

8. Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the outhaul pulley on the bridle, then through the Spinlock clutch and halyard pulley on the trampoline; tie a stop knot in the end of the halyard.

9. Untie the 2mm Spectra strop from the ring on the bridle.

10. Push the pivoting Spinlock clutch cover back to LOCK the clutch on the spinnaker halyard. Pull the spinnaker halyard from behind the halyard pulley on the trampoline to take up the slack, so the spinnaker halyard supports the mast.

11. Ensure that the spinnaker halyard clutch is still in the LOCK position, and that the spinnaker halyard is securing the mast upright. 12. Untie the two forestay strops from the shackles on the bridle plates, step onto the trampoline and take the weight of the mast before pushing the pivoting cover on the Spinlock clutch to the OPEN position.

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13. Rotate the mast to port so that the cut-out in the mast support allows the mast to be lowered. Lower the mast and support the top of the mast on the trailer mast support.

14. Remove the standing and from the mast, and then remove the mast from the boat and trailer.

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Mainsail The Mylar mainsail has a total area of 12.95 square metres, with full-length foam-cored battens. Sail shape and power is controlled by downhaul, mast rotation, outhaul, mainsheet and traveller controls. The mainsail is attached to 4 the main halyard by a ring shackle; the ring attaches to the corresponding hook at the top of the mast when the sail is raised. Batten tension 1. File the batten ends that protrude from the mainsail so that they are smooth and rounded; this will reduce the chance of damaging the spinnaker if it accidentally catches the back of the mainsail during a hoist or drop.

2. Insert and tension all battens equally, so they are a snug fit in the mainsail.

Hoisting the mainsail When hoisted the mainsail is attached to a hook at the top of the mast by the ring shackle on the halyard. 1. Attach the halyard shackle to the head of the mainsail, with the stop-knot to the front of the sail.

2. Insert the mainsail into the flared section of the mast track and use the halyard to pull up the mainsail. Carefully feed the bolt rope into the mast track as the sail is hoisted, to prevent jams.

3. Once the sail is fully raised rotate the mast spanner slightly from side to side, allowing the mainsail ring shackle to engage on the hook.

4. Feed the track clip at the foot of the mainsail into the flare in the mast track and then feed the mainsail bolt rope down the mast track. Ensure that the track clip is not caught in the main halyard.

5. Stow the main halyard in the trampoline pocket, ensuring that it is not tangled with the downhaul and rotation control lines or the spinnaker sheets.

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Downhaul Feed the rope from one downhaul strop through the eye in the foot of the mainsail, and cleat the end in the clam cleat on the side of the mast; repeat for the other downhaul strop.

Outhaul Feed the outhaul rope at the end of the boom through the eye in the mainsail clew, and hook the stop-knot in the slot at the end of the boom. Mainsheet 1. Shackle the bottom of the mainsheet assembly to the hasp on the traveller. Tie the end of the mainsheet to the end of the traveller line, for easy access to the traveller whilst sailing.

2. Tie the mainsheet strop around the boom and through the eye in the mainsail clew, using a bowline.

3. Adjust the angle of the mainsheet cleat before sailing for the first time, to suit your preference. Loosen the screw on each side of the block, and rotate the cleat-mounting bracket to adjust the angle. Setting the cleat very high will make it difficult to cleat the mainsheet, whereas setting the cleat very low will make the mainsheet cleat continually and be difficult to uncleat.

Traveller Upwind I keep my traveller centred until 15 to 20 knots, then ease out 150mm (6”). As the wind increases to 25+ knots I ease another 40mm to 150mm (3” to 6”). Downwind I ease the traveller approximately 300mm (12”) until 20+ knots, when I tend to release the traveller fully.

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Lowering the mainsail The sail must be fully hoisted to lift the mainsail ring shackle off the hook at the top of the mast, and then the mast rotated to release the ring shackle from the hook before the mainsail can be lowered. 1. Position the boat head to wind.

2. Untie the mainsheet strop from the mainsail and boom.

3. Unfasten the outhaul strop from the end of the boom and release the mainsail from the boom.

4. Uncleat the downhaul strops and release them from the eye in the foot of the mainsail. Push the foot of the mainsail out of the flare in the mast track.

5. Uncleat the mast rotation control line, to allow the mast to be fully rotated with the mast spanner.

6. Remove the mainsail halyard from the trampoline pocket, fully hoist the mainsail and rotate mast to one side using the mast spanner; pull down on the foot of the sail while the mast is still rotated.

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Spinnaker The spinnaker system uses a single line outhaul/halyard/downhaul system, with a spinnaker chute beneath the trampoline for simple hoists and drops. It is advisable to practice rigging the spinnaker in light winds initially, so that it 5 is possible to hoist the spinnaker ashore and check that the halyard and sheets are correctly routed. It is also useful to practice hoists and drops a few times on shore in light winds to become familiar with the system, before venturing afloat to use the spinnaker in anger. Outhaul, halyard, downhaul, sheets 1. Feed the spinnaker outhaul from the bridle through one side of the outhaul/halyard double pulley, through the outhaul pulley on the bridle, and then loosely tie off the end of the outhaul to one end of the spinnaker halyard (from the hounds pulley).

2. Feed the other end of the spinnaker halyard from the hounds down through the pulley on the front of the front beam, through the outhaul/halyard double pulley, through the Spinlock clutch on the trampoline, and then through the spinnaker pulley in the middle of the trampoline towards the cutout in the rear of the trampoline.

3. Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the small pulley mounted on the rear beam, then feed the halyard through the spinnaker chute to the front of the boat (using the tiller extension or a batten to pull the halyard through to the front of the spinnaker chute). Tie off the downhaul to the dolphin striker, so that it isn’t pulled back through the chute whilst the outhaul and halyard are being attached to the spinnaker.

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4. Attach the spinnaker halyard (from the hounds pulley) to the head of the spinnaker with a bowline.

5. Attach the 2mm Spectra ‘stress line’ from the head of the spinnaker to the downhaul patch (if not already fitted). This line is attached with a stop knot in a plastic bobble through a just below the head of the spinnaker, secured at the other end with a bowline to the downhaul patch. This line takes much of the force exerted on the spinnaker when it is hoisted out of the chute, reducing stretching and extending the life of the spinnaker.

6. Feed the spinnaker downhaul from the mouth of the spinnaker chute through the lower downhaul cringle on the spinnaker, and then secure to the webbing on the spinnaker downhaul patch with a bowline.

7. Attach the spinnaker outhaul to the of the spinnaker with a bowline.

8. Attach the centre of the spinnaker to the clew of the spinnaker, by pushing a loop of sheet through the cringle and then passing the two ends of the sheet through the loop.

9. Take the starboard end of the spinnaker sheet past the front of the mast, outside the starboard shroud and inside the trapeze wire, and then through the spinnaker block in the direction of the arrow on the side of the block. Take the port end of the spinnaker sheet outside the port shroud and inside the trapeze wire, and then through the spinnaker block in the direction of the arrow on the side of the block. Tie the two ends of the spinnaker sheet together.

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10. Push the pivoting Spinlock clutch cover forward to OPEN the clutch OPEN on the spinnaker halyard.

11. Pull the spinnaker downhaul from in front of the downhaul pulley on the trampoline, which will pull the spinnaker down into the chute.

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Hoisting the spinnaker Preparation before hoisting the spinnaker will ensure trouble-free hoists. Assess the downwind leg and sailing angles whilst approaching the windward mark, to decide whether the is deep enough for the kite. Identify and try to avoid any other boats or obstructions that may cause difficulty whilst hoisting the spinnaker. Ensure that the boat is sailing well downwind before hoisting the spinnaker, easing the traveller and mainsheet as the boat bears away. You may also find it helpful to raise the daggerboards to a downwind position before hoisting the spinnaker. 1. Push the pivoting Spinlock clutch cover back to LOCK the clutch on the spinnaker halyard.

LOCK

2. Pull the end of the spinnaker halyard from behind the spinnaker halyard pulley in the middle of the trampoline, until the spinnaker is fully hoisted. Note that the halyard must be pulled from behind the pulley, to prevent the clutch releasing to OPEN mode!

3. Sheet in the spinnaker sheet.

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Dropping the spinnaker Preparation before dropping the spinnaker will ensure trouble-free drops. Identify and try to avoid any other boats or obstructions that may cause difficulty whilst dropping the spinnaker. Ensure that the boat is sailing well downwind before dropping the spinnaker. A key element in successful spinnaker drops is pulling the spinnaker down into the chute quickly once the Spinlock clutch has been released, to avoid the possibility of the spinnaker dropping in the water. 1. Pull any slack spinnaker downhaul through in front of the spinnaker downhaul pulley.

2. Pull upwards on the spinnaker downhaul behind the Spinlock clutch to OPEN the clutch on the spinnaker halyard.

OPEN

3. Pull the spinnaker downhaul from in front of the spinnaker downhaul pulley; the spinnaker will be pulled down into the chute.

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Foils Daggerboards Fit the daggerboards into the hulls with the tips fully retracted, and mark some SAFE lines on the sides of both foils, to indicate that the daggerboard is 6 retracted fully in the hull for launching and recovery. There is a rubber friction pad in each hull, to prevent the daggerboards slipping up or down whilst sailing. If there is too much friction this can be adjusted by carefully trimming the rubber pad with a sharp knife Calibration It may be helpful to mark some calibration points on each side of the daggerboards, until you become accustomed to how they affect the performance of the boat. This will enable you to record and re-produce the most effective daggerboard settings for different wind conditions and sea- states. Upwind I keep my daggerboards fully down until 15 knots, and then raise both boards approximately 150mm (6”). As the wind increases to 20 knots I raise another 35mm (1.5”), then a further 35mm (1.5”) for 25 knots. Downwind both daggerboards are half-raised, in all wind conditions. Rudders The rudders incorporate a kick-up mechanism to reduce damage if the rudders hit underwater obstructions. Kick-up tension is provided by the loops of shockcord on the rudder arm; one loop should provide sufficient kick-up tension for most sailing conditions. To prevent unnecessary damage to the rudder blades it is advisable to manually raise the rudders when returning to the beach, releasing the shockcord loops before the boat reaches shallow water. The rudders have an adjustment to push the blade fully into the stock when the control rod is secured. Rudder adjustment 1. Lower each rudder and check that when the blade is pushed fully into the stock the black nylon fitting on the control rod is a snug fit against the casting.

2. Adjust the position of the nylon fitting by screwing the control rod in or out as necessary, then lock the control rod with the lock nut.

Crossbar & tiller The crossbar is attached to each rudder bar by a universal joint, with a similar universal joint for the tiller. Ensure that these are correctly assembled with protective covers attached before sailing. PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK

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Maintenance The Shadow is constructed of robust materials and uses top quality fittings, but simple regular maintenance will help ensure trouble-free sailing and minimise gear failure on the water. 7 Before every sail Tape all clevis pins. Tighten all shackles. Check condition of ropes, shockcord and securing knots. After every sail Rinse blocks, after sailing in salt water Repair any damage or wear identified whilst sailing. Periodically Check for wear on ropes and shock-cord (especially bridle support rope and spinnaker halyard), replacing any worn items. Check and adjust trampoline tension. Check and adjust batten tension. Check for wear and tear, repairing any wear or damage. Tighten all shackles, especially hounds shackle on mast. Check condition of bearings in pulleys and blocks, lubricating or replacing any worn items. Annually Check condition of shrouds, forestay, trapeze wires, hulls, gel coat, beams, foils and rudder stocks etc., repairing or replacing any damaged or worn items.

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Parts and accessories Accessories Description 8 Stern supports Big-wheel launching trolley Light-weight carbon launching trolley Protective rudder bags (pair) Protective daggerboard bag (for 2 foils) Trampoline cover Full cover Road trailer Trailer lighting board Hull covers (for towing) Davis Wind-Tel wind indicators Shadow sweat-shirt Shadow polo-shirt

Spare Parts Description Battens (set) Carbon tiller Boom Rudder blade Rudder stock (port) Rudder stock (starboard) Rudder cross-bar Daggerboard Mast Spinlock halyard clutch Auto-ratchet spinnaker block Shrouds (pair) Trapeze wires (pair) Forestay (complete, with pulley & strops) Mainsail Spinnaker (yellow)

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