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Max Chocolatier Special Edition 2 Editorial Max Chocolatier Special Edition 2 Editorial Dear Reader The recipe for a good life calls for many select ingredients, which, if carefully mixed, lead to true happiness. That is why the Swiss travel magazine Transhelvetica continually searches for secret des- tinations, adventures, and other tips that lend life its special flavour. On one of our “expeditions” we discovered Max Chocolatier and their incred- ibly tasty chocolate. Wrapped with style and humour, the handcrafted chocolates not only look perfect, but also trigger a firework of different fla- vours on the tongue. This must be the taste of pure indulgence! And ever since we made this discovery, we cannot pass through Lucerne or stroll through Jon Bollmann Zurich without giving in to temptation, stopping at Publisher Transhelvetica the chocolate boutique for a little escape from our daily routines. For our “Max” themed issue, we were granted a look behind the scenes at Max Chocolatier. The magazine sold out, so we’ve reprinted this story as a special edition. We hope you enjoy reading it – and perhaps we’ll even inspire you to discover Max Chocolatier for yourself! Cover Paper cut by Maria Schneider Photographed by Tamara Janes, tamarajanes.ch Editorial portrait Alex Wydler, alexwydler.com 3 4 ← A chocolate factory for a chocolate lover: Inspiration Max Max König takes pride in his very own chocolate factory. Max & the Chocolate Factory A chocolate fairy tale from Lucerne When Max König was a little boy, he had to work hard to keep up with the other chil- dren. Today, he is the proud owner of one of Switzerland’s best chocolate factories. Chocolate “river” included. Text Jon Bollmann Whenever Max snacks on the sweet treats from his own not an accepted means of payment and the taste of the factory, his eyes start to shine and his taste buds dance unprocessed fruit did not appeal to European palates. like the coloured lights on a Ferris wheel. But to under- Only after people started to balance its bitterness with stand this flavourful magic, let us go back a few years – or the sweetness of honey and cane sugar, did the cacao even millennia. bean conquer our part of the world. Served as cocoa, it gained popularity in European high society. Soon, no The Discovery of the Chocolate Tree social event of any significance could do without the ex- The history of chocolate starts in Mesoamerica, where, quisite drink. 3000 years ago, the Olmecs discovered a tree with strange fruit. The pulp of these fruits was refreshing and their Chocolate Comes to Switzerland beans had a bittersweet aftertaste. The Olmecs must Since its ingredients were expensive, chocolate long re- have liked it; in any case, the fruit of the cacao tree soon mained a luxury item. Common people from the lower gained considerable significance in their culture. De- or middle classes only got a taste of the sweet flavour of claring its origin divine, they annually held a sacrificial Middle America when illness struck. Until the 19th cen- celebration in its honour. Not without reason, perhaps, tury, chocolate was seen as a tonic and healing potion. as the liquid cocoa they made from the beans of the It was therefore sold in pharmacies. With the advent of cacao tree had an intoxicating effect. Only the aristoc- industrialisation and the advance of global trade, how- racy and participants of important ceremonies, such as ever, chocolate became more affordable. As prices came priests and those destined to be sacrificed, were allowed down, its appeal spread beyond the affluent elites. In to drink it. Hernán Cortés, the most ruthless conqueror 1819, François-Louis Cailler founded Switzerland’s in Central America, observed that the best cacao beans first fully mechanised chocolate manufacture in Vevey. were not only processed to be consumed, but also served Others followed. Switzerland’s global reputation as a as currency (a good slave was worth about 100 beans). chocolate nation is in large parts due to three men: Henri He brought a few bags of the precious resource back to Nestlé, Daniel Peter – Cailler’s son-in-law who invented Picture: Samatha Scott Europe. However, in the Old World, cacao beans were milk chocolate –, and Rodolphe Lindt. The latter pioneered 5 Max & the Chocolate Factory a refining process, called conching, through which Rivers of Chocolate choco late can be made palatable without the necessary Having found the right suppliers, Patrik König and his addition of honey and sugar. father took on board a young chocolatier who had won the 2nd prize in the World Chocolate Masters. The three Switzerland Is Hooked of them holed up in an atelier at the heart of Lucerne The most fervent advocates and best consumers of Swiss where they started to experiment with the painstakingly chocolate are the Swiss themselves; a third of the nation- collected flavours and explore different combinations. al production is consumed within the country. One of Though their laboratory offers fantastic views – over the the families contributing to Switzerland’s high per cap- lake promenade, the many swans and proud ships of Lake ita consumption is the König family. Like so many other Lucerne – the three chocolate innovators had no time Swiss, they can never get enough of good chocolate. So to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Amidst the it is perhaps no surprise that Patrik König, who travelled rich smell of cocoa and rivers of white, brown, and black the world as a banker and watch retailer, sought out and Grand Cru chocolate, they worked tirelessly to create tried the best chocolate wherever he went. Driven by his new recipes. They would settle for nothing less than love for chocolate, he visited exquisite, small ateliers in chocolate that would enchant the city, the country, and Brooklyn and Paris, in Barcelona, Tokyo, and Brussels. at some point, the world. Little by little he realised that Switzerland, though it Once the recipes began to match the founder’s expect- produces excellent industrial chocolate, plays a minor ations, the enterprise needed a catchy name and the role in the production of handmade chocolate. Being a chocolates stylish packaging. Patrik König therefore chocolate aficionado as well as a gourmet with an aware- turned to his wife, Hilda Chédel. The native Salvadorian ness for Swiss quality and tradition, had many years of experience in Patrik König made the (for him) ob- marketing and an affinity for cacao. vious choice. He wanted to remedy Wherever she went, she spread that this shortcoming; Switzerland was to joy of life otherwise typical for the become the home of a manufacture home of the cacao tree. Soon, Hilda of unique, high-quality chocolate and had infused the chocolate atelier with handmade truffles – chocolate, the her Central American charm. She like of which Switzerland had never made sure – then as she does now – tasted before. And thus, the idea to that the little chocolate wonders are produce his own chocolate took hold presented perfectly and yet, with a and grew … dash of humour. Investing her energy not only into providing the truffles, Flavour Expeditions dragées, and chocolate bunnies with When the bookstore situated next appropriate “outfits”, but also into to his watch store in Lucerne closed, refining the recipes, she proved to be Patrik König seized the opportunity. Close: Max and Patrik König. a valuable asset for the young choco­­­ Together with his father, with whom late brand. he shared his passion for chocolate and for quality, he embarked on the adventure. Since the best chocolate can Max Chocolatier only be produced from the best ingredients, they started As the preparations for the opening of their very own by scouring the globe for high-quality resources. chocolate boutique were in full swing, there was one Someone who knows the high standards of the König fam- thing the König family looked forward to in particular: ily is Heini Schwarzenbach, the owner of the Schwarzen- the festive unveiling of the large sign above the door, on bach specialty store in Zurich. There the Königs regularly the day of the opening. Everyone involved knew what it discover spices and order flavours from all over the world. would say. After all, the adventure had blossomed into In extensive tasting sessions with friends and specialists, a true family enterprise. And while there had been dis- these flavours are tested and the favourites chosen: cacao agreements and discussions about certain details of the beans from Latin America, vanilla from Tahiti, almonds new chocolate boutique – as there are even in the most from California, hazelnuts from Piedmont, alpine milk functional of families – there was something, or rather from Uri, and honey from the blooming meadows on the someone, they never fought about. Someone who could shores of Lake Lucerne. Another important partner is always bring them together and united them. That some- Max Felchlin’s company, one of the best producers of one is Max. Grand Cru couverture chocolate in the world. For the Max is Patrik’s son and the hero of the König family. Königs, Felchlin not only developed an exclusive cou- He has more than others, for he was born with an verture, the company also provides them with such rare additional chromosome. And though that renders his life specialties as wild cacao from the Bolivian jungle, or fine difficult at times, Max embodies what his family seeks to cacao from Madagascar. stand for with their chocolate: honesty and contentment. Picture left: Samatha Scott / Picture right: Lee Jakob 6 A land of milk and chocolate: liquid chocolate flows from the faucet in the chocolate atelier. Artisanal: each chocolate is finished by hand with a cooled stamp.
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