Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group Volume 25 Issue 4 April 2015

EVANS LOOKOUT TO GOVETS LEAP TOPIC and insures the conditions of OUR MARCH perennial moisture so plainly evidenced by the luxuriance of WALK the surrounding vegetation. EVANS LOOKOUT, Then again, from below you BEAUCHAMP FALLS, have a skyline broken into JUNCTION ROCK, many fantastic shapes, and GOVETTS LEAP LOOKOUT lighted up in parts with delicate th light hues, while others are in Friday 20 March 2015 deep shade in lieu of the almost “It was reached for the first time uniformly level horizon seen – at least for many years – in the from above. Standing at the month of October, 1875, from a basin at the foot of Govett’s sketching camp formed by the Leap, which is only about 25 writer, at the junction of Govett’s yards from the perpendicular Leap Gorge with the Valley of Autumn in the Bush wall of rock, it is almost the Grose, to be hereafter impossible to look up at the described. That junction is Falls. The better plan is to lie situated almost 12 miles down the Grose on one’s back, and look upwards to the zenith, Valley from the Hartley Vale Siding (80 miles when the 700 feet cliffs forming the ends of from Sydney), and 2,270 feet below the the horse-shoe bend in which the Falls are Railway; thence, owing to the roughness of situated, tower above you on either side, while the upper part of Govett’s Creek bed, and the the waterfall appears to be coming down from denseness of the scrub, fully three and a half a depression in their centre almost on to your hours are required to reach the foot of the face. Few persons, perhaps, could lie in that Falls, although the distance, as above stated, is position for more than a minute or two at a only about 3¼ miles in a straight line. As time without feeling giddy, the sight is so described by its visitors on that occasion, the grand.” scene at the bottom of the Falls is, if possible, grander than that from above. From the top This description of Govetts Leap, reproduced you can see nothing distinctly, only an awful in The Railway Guide of New South Wales gulf, with a confused mass of foliage far published in 1879, is from the pen of below; but from below it appears a large Eccleston Du Faur. In September of 1875 Du amphitheatre, filled with trees of luxuriant Faur set up an artists camp in the Blue Gum growth, and ferns and mosses. The water Forest. Over two months, artists and coming down sometimes like falling rockets, photographers, mostly from the Academy of sometimes dissipated by the wind into clouds Arts, spent time at the camp making of spray before it has half completed its expeditions, under very trying conditions, to downward course, is wafted over a large area, the base of Govetts Leap and other areas in the valley. The German photographer Joseph 2 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group Bischoff and Tasmanian landscape artist distinctive red floor and walls under a large William Piguenit were perhaps the most overhang. We now enter an area of luxuriant accomplished of the participants; both rainforest where Coachwood (Ceratopetalum produced important images of the landscape at apetalum) and Sassafras (Doryphora that time. sassafras) tower above us seeking the energy Today, the eight walkers who decided to of the sun above this deep ravine. We look accept the challenge of this harder rated walk, down on a forest of Soft Tree Ferns (Dicksonia antarctica) will get to view Govetts Leap from above and ; green cartwheels of below, and compare notes with Eccleston Du filigree fronds illuminated by shafts of light Faur’s descriptions of 140 years ago. streaming through the canopy. We are in The Fernery. We meet at Govetts Leap Lookout; some take a furtive glance to the base of the falls and of New stepping stones have been recently the 250 metre high cliff face we will climb to installed during upgrade works on this track. conclude this walk. But hey, on fresh legs and Soon however we pass between two invigorated by the crisp morning air, one can’t magnificent gnarled and craggy, moss and perceive any problems there. A car shuffle lichen encrusted old giants of the forest. Here then delivers us to Evans Lookout car park for the original stone steps have been retained; the start of the walk. smooth depressions on their tread surfaces clear evidence of the innumerable feet which Libby suggests we first visit the Valley View have climbed up and down these stairs over Lookout, a lookout first opened in January many years, carrying enthralled visitors into 1946 as Bradshaw Lookout, after an Alderman this wonderland. These steps, climbing up of Blackheath Municipal Council; the present between the flared trunks and surface roots of name being allocated in 1991. This vantage those two trees, are one of the iconic rainforest point gives a fine view of the line of Govetts images of these mountains. Creek as it meanders along the base of the wide ‘V’ formed by the talus slopes to reach Presently we reach Greaves Creek at the lower its confluence with the Grose River in the end of the Grand Canyon; here we turn left Blue Gum Forest; Mount Banks is silhouetted onto the Rodriguez Pass Walking Track. We on the skyline. In the foreground the junction follow the creek, recrossing it a little of Govetts Leap Brook with Govetts Creek downstream, then negotiate a recent landslide can be seen, that is the site of Junction Rock area to reach Beauchamp Falls. which we will pass later today – all looks quite Rodriguez Pass is named for Blackheath easy from here. Station Master from 1889 to 1900, hotel We make our way along the short link track to proprietor, real estate agent and Councillor on Evans Lookout. From this point a silver ribbon the Blue Mountains Shire Council from 1917 of water glistens in the morning sun as it to1919 – Tomas Ramon Rodriguez. cascades down the face of Carne Wall just east Beauchamp Falls was named in 1899 for the of Point Pilcher; drainage water from the then Governor of NSW, William Lygon, 7th hanging swamp above the cliffs. A line visible Earl of Beauchamp; it was previously known in the canopy of the forest far below is the as Blackheath Falls. course of Greaves Creek making its way to We enjoy morning tea while taking in the Govetts Creek; indeed the course we will be beauty of these falls; falls comprised of two following shortly. distinct drops. A wide curtain of water drops We drop down from Evans Lookout, initially over the horizontal ledge at their apex and through open woodland, then into a deep drops as a broad cascade down the rock face. narrow gully. We pass the Cave of Red To the left a second, quite separate, relatively (named by Erik Halbert of the Sydney narrow stream emerges, it breaks into a wider Speleological Society in 2014) with its series of cascades as it tumbles over jagged 3 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group boulders then recombines to complete its drop point where the Horse Track, a shorter steep down a dark rock face displaying outcrops of route into the valley from just below Evans coppery-coloured stone; the combined effect is Lookout, (constructed c1900 and used as a an impressive sight. horse and cattle track up to 1980), joins We now make our way downstream on the left Rodriguez Pass. Looming above us are the hand side of the creek. The enclosed forest imposing cliffs of Fortress Hill. We negotiate here contains Cedar Wattles (Acacia elata) , a narrow shelf jutting from a rock face and young Turpentines (Syncarpia glomulifera) arrive at Junction Rock; this spot was and in the understorey of these taller trees are previously known as The Junction. Blueberry Ash (Elaeocarpus reticulatus) . We (Landscape artist William Piguenit and two th to 9 th hear, but only catch fleeting glimpses through others camped near here from 5 October 1875 while on the Du Faur the trees and shrubs, of several small expedition.) waterfalls along the way. In order below Beauchamp Falls they are Popes, Foy, John We pause for lunch just upstream of Junction Harris, Bettington and Campbell Falls; the Rock beside Govetts Leap Brook, here it latter being near where we cross to the right traverses a large rock platform via a series of hand side of the creek at a point where the small cascades and rock pools; some sit with sparse remains of a long lost bridge remain feet dangling in the cooling waters. Bliss! embedded in the rock platform. Suitably rested and refreshed, fortified by a We sight several Water Dragons sunning generous piece of Libby’s bushwalker cake, themselves on the rocks beside the creek; we now commence the 620 vertical metres heads held high and long tails trailing down climb out; it is all uphill from here. the rock, they are obviously accustomed to The line of Govetts Leap Brook takes us back people passing by for they appear totally into a glorious enclosed rainforest unperturbed by our presence. environment. The lilting tunes of the tumbling The track now leads us through magnificent brook, the series of delightful cascades, the stands of giant Turpentines (Syncarpia many miniature waterfalls dropping into glomulifera) ; their towering trunks clothed in mirror-like pools all framed by lush ferns and deeply furrowed fibrous bark. Scattered at moss-encrusted rock faces almost alleviates their base are many tiny ‘flying saucer’ shaped the constant ascent of the track; almost but seed pods formed by the fruits being joined; perhaps not entirely. ‘syncarpia’ meaning fruits united together. A small diversion takes us to Trinity Falls on Here also are a few wonderful examples of Popes Glen Creek, just upstream of its (Melaleuca sp) large Paperbarks and a couple junction with Govetts Leap Brook. Du Faur (Ficus rubiginosa) of Port Jackson Figs are named these falls during his 1875 expedition; also sighted; one having spread its roots over a he described them as “consisting of three large boulder before seeking the nourishment leaps”. Indeed that is the case, two narrow of the soil, the other growing ‘strangler- ribbons of water course down at different fashion’ on a host tree. angles between huge sandstone tors and We boulder hop across Greaves Creek at a spread across a horizontal rock shelf to drop as spot where limpid pools in the rocky creek bed a wide cascade onto a pebble bed before reflect the overhanging trees and azure sky; continuing along the creek. (Landscape artist we are just upstream of the confluence of this Piguenit felt these falls offered far greater creek with Govetts Creek. artistic merit than did Govetts Leap.) The track now takes us through more open It is now a fairly steep climb before we reach country on the left side of Govetts Creek the base of Govetts Leap but what a whose waters burble and gurgle across multi- magnificent spectacle. Though any breeze is hued beds of smooth river stones. We pass the imperceptible the falling water is indeed 4 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group “dissipated by the wind into clouds of spray” Darwins Walk, National Pass, Valley of the and “wafted over a large area”. I didn’t notice Waters at Wentworth Falls anyone lying on his or her back here, at least The group last walked this route in March not to view the falls; would have been a good 2009. Charles Darwin last walked here in excuse though to have a rest. 1836 and described the view of the falls as We are now at the end of the Rodriguez Pass “extremely magnificent”; who am I to argue which stretches back to the Grand Canyon with that? Track and at the lower end (unfortunately) of Meet at Wilson Park in Falls Road just off the Williams Track which leads to Govetts the Western Highway at Wentworth Falls, Leap Lookout. Tom Williams and his son (near the Bowling Club) at 9.00am or at Samual constructed this track, commencing on Merry Garth for an 8.10am departure. A 4th May 1898 and completing it on 20 th short car shuffle to the Conservation Hut will January 1899. James Daly, a Trustee of be required. This is rated as a medium walk Govetts Leap Reserve and Tomas Rodriguez with a descent and ascent of about 210 metres. conceived the idea of this track; its completion It is about 7 kilometres and includes the gentle allowed the construction of Rodriguez Pass to walk beside Jamison Creek, the stairs beside begin. It was commenced by Jack Cliff in Wentworth Falls then the National Pass Track, January 1899 and completed on 21 April 1900 both superbly refurbished recently, and the for a cost of £270. The government subsidised ascent up through the Valley of the Waters. it at a rate of 10 shillings for every pound raised publicly. Bring morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea and plenty of water. And so we begin our climb of about 250 vertical metres to the lookout. They advise, Contact Libby Raines on 4756 2121 (after “don’t look up”, but of course it is impossible 7pm) or Helen and John Cardy on 9871 to ignore the cliffs towering above. The effort 3661 or on mobile 0418 646 487. of the climb is allayed to some extent by the spectacular views to be had along the way. FUTURE WALKS (Tentative schedule) th Presently we arrive at Govetts Leap Lookout, Friday 15 May 2015 – Centennial Glen, a little weary it is true, but with a sense of Porters Pass, Walls Ledge at Blackheath achievement and satisfaction in having once Friday 19 th June – Golden Stairs and Ruined more experienced the splendour of the various Castle at Katoomba sublime environments along this circuit. I shall give the last word to Mr Edwin Burton, BUSH CARE ‘an indefatigable littérateur’, describing the Bush Care is held on the second Friday of Govetts Leap area in the Railway Guide of each month from 9am to Noon. Any help, 1879. “The full sublimity and majestic even for a short time, would be appreciated. grandeur of the scene is not realised at a first th glance. After contemplating it for a time the Friday 10 April at Hay Lane (Ferny mind becomes filled with awe and wonder as Corner) it vainly strives to comprehend.” Friday 8 th May at Hay Lane (Sloan OUR APRIL WALK Reserve) Friday 17 th April 2015 Contact Libby Raines on 4756 2121 for details A Gentle Rill, Charming Cascades, Dramatic Waterfalls, Stunning Views – A Natural Selection for a walk really