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Szőlőtermelés És Borkereskedelem SZŐLŐTERMELÉS ÉS BORKERESKEDELEM SPECULUM HISTORIAE DEBRECENIENSE 2. (A Debreceni Egyetem Történelmi Intézete Kiadványai) Sorozatszerkesztő: PAPP KLÁRA 2 3 Szőlőtermelés és borkereskedelem Szerkesztette: OROSZ ISTVÁN és PAPP KLÁRA DEBRECEN, 2009 4 A DEBRECENI EGYETEM TÖRTÉNELMI INTÉZETE KIADÁSA A borítót Abaújszántó kőrajzának felhasználásával tervezte: SZILÁGYI IMRE grafikusművész Szántó. „Term. u. és kőre rajzolta: Keleti Gusztáv. Özvegy Fuchs Györgyné műintézete München.” In. Tokaj-Hegyaljai Album. Szerkesztők: dr. Szabó József–Török István. Kiadja a Tokaj-Hegyaljai Bormívelő Egyesület és elnöke báró Vay Miklós. Pest, 1867. A kötetet lektorálta: BARTHA ELEK professzor Technikai szerkesztő: Jékel Pál és Molnárné Balázs Zsuzsanna © Orosz István, Papp Klára (szerk.), 2009 © A szerzők, 2009 Minden jog fenntartva. Bármilyen másolás, sokszorosítás, illetve adatfeldolgozó rendszerben való tárolás a kiadó előzetes hozzájárulásához van kötve. A kötet kiadását támogatta: az OTKA K 61 447 sz. pályázata a Debreceni Egyetem Történelmi Intézete, ISSN 2060-9213 ISBN 978-963-473-344-7 Nyomta a Kapitális Kft., Debrecen Felelős vezető: Kapusi József 5 TARTALOM Előszó ................................................................................................................. 7 PÓSÁN LÁSZLÓ Borkereskedelem a középkori Baltikumban ................................................. 9 OROSZ ISTVÁN Tokaj-Hegyalja a pápai tizedjegyzékekben................................................... 23 TÓZSA-RIGÓ ATTILA Szőlőbirtoklás a 16. századi Pozsonyban ..................................................... 33 VINKLER BÁLINT Krakkói vámnaplók tokaj-hegyaljai borokra vonatkozó bejegyzései 1597-ben ................................................................................... 55 JENEY-TÓTH ANNAMÁRIA Szőlősgazdák, vincellérek és szőlőmívesek Kolozsváron a 16–17. század fordulóján ........................................................................... 77 KÓNYA PÉTER A tokaji bor a 17. századi felső-magyarországi szabad királyi városok (Eperjes, Bártfa és Kisszeben) gazdaságában .............................................. 97 ULRICH ATTILA Kamarai szőlőelkobzások, szőlőbirtokok 1670–1701 között, különös tekintettel a Wesselényi összeesküvés utáni okkupációkra ............. 109 OROSZ ISTVÁN Sárospatak úrbéri pere a Trautsohnokkal ...................................................... 129 PAPP KLÁRA Az érmelléki szőlőművelés és szőlőbirtoklás a 18. században ..................... 147 BÁRSONY ISTVÁN A debreceni polgárok szőlőbirtokai Bihar megyében .................................. 175 PAPP KLÁRA Szőlő- és földbirtoklásból származó konfliktus Vajdán a Csáky és a Dobozy család között ............................................................................. 197 6 TARTALOM IFJ. BARTA JÁNOS Szőlőművelés és szőlőből származó jövedelmek Zemplén megyében a 18. század utolsó negyedében..................................................................... 207 PAPP IMRE A tokajihoz hasonlított borok Franciaországban a 19. században ................ 223 FÜREDER BALÁZS A Balassák borfogyasztása a 18. századtól a 19. század közepéig ............... 235 LÉVAI CSABA Haraszthy Ágoston mint a „kaliforniai szőlőkultúra atyja”: vélemények és viták az újabb egyesült államokbeli szakirodalom tükrében .................... 249 PAPP IMRE A francia szőlő-és bortermelés szerkezeti változásai a 19. században ......... 269 OROSZ ISTVÁN Népesség változás és társadalmi átalakulás Hegyalján a 19. században ...... 295 EGYED ÁKOS A filoxéravész és következményei Arad-Hegyalján .................................... 317 HAJDÚ ILDIKÓ Üzemszervezeti formák a tarcali szőlőkultúrában ........................................ 327 DR.CSÁVOSSY GYÖRGY–FÜLÖP ISTVÁN A csombordi iskola virágkora ...................................................................... 347 A KÖTET SZERZŐI .............................................................................................. 383 7 ELŐSZÓ Az olvasó annak a kutatásnak az eredményét tartja a kezében, amelynek lehető- ségét az Országos Tudományos Kutatási Alapprogramok (OTKA) bíráló bizott- sága teremtette meg, amikor elfogadta és anyagilag is támogatta kutatócsopor- tunk tervét, amely a magyarországi szőlőtermelés múltjának eddig ismeretlen, vagy kevésbé feldolgozott területét kívánta vizsgálni. Terveink közt szerepelt, hogy a személyi feltételeknek megfelelően, nemzetközi kitekintést is adjunk, egyrészt a magyar borok lengyelországi exportjáról, vagy a középkori Baltikum borkereskedelméről, a legnagyobb, sokak számára mintát jelentő európai szőlő- termelő ország: Franciaország termelési rendszerének változásairól s azokról a kísérletekről, amelyekkel tokaji aszúhoz hasonló borokat kívántak készíteni eb- ben a bor „nagyhatalomban”. De új kutatási eredményeket találhat az olvasó a kaliforniai szőlőtermelés atyjának tekintett magyar Haraszty Ágoston „legendá- jának” eloszlatásában is. A kötetet forgató olvasó azonban azt is tapasztalhatja, hogy a tanulmányok zöme a hazai szőlőtermelés kérdéseivel foglalkozik, nem is az egész országgal, csak annak északi és keleti felével. Mindez természetesen nem jelenti azt, hogy a dunántúli, vagy alföldi szőlőtermelés fontosságát e kötet szerzői ne éreznék. A baranyai, szekszárdi, Balaton-felvidéki, vagy alföldi szőlőkultúra szerepe, bizo- nyára ugyanolyan fontos volt a hazai borkultúra múltjában, mint az érmelléki, kolozsvári, vagy Arad-hegyaljai. Egyszerűen csak arról van szó, hogy munkatár- sainkat eddigi tudományos tevékenységük arra predesztinálta, hogy az ország ke- leti felében lévő szőlővidékekkel foglalkozzanak. A debreceni egyetemen dolgo- zó kollégáink, vagy a debreceni egyetemhez valamilyen formában kötődők termé- szetesnek tartották azt, hogy érdeklődésük az ország azon részéhez kapcsolódik, amelynek egyik szellemi centruma Debrecen városa és a Debreceni Egyetem. Még egy jellegzetességet tapasztalhat az, aki megtiszteli szerzői kollektíván- kat azzal, hogy elolvassa a kötetben szereplő tanulmányokat. Több írás is foglal- kozik Tokaj-Hegyaljával. Ez sem véletlen. A török hódítás során elpusztult a kö- zépkori Magyarország legjelesebb borvidéke: a Szerémség, s helyét Tokaj-Hegy- alja foglalta el. Nyilván e kitüntetett helyzet is okozta, hogy szerzői kollektí- 8 ELŐSZÓ vánkban nem csak e sorok írója, aki már fél évszázada vissza-visszatér kutatásai- ban e táj múltjához, de mások is fontosnak tartották a tokaji borkultúra jellegze- tességeinek kutatását. A kutatócsoport tagjai az elmúlt években több konferencián adtak számot ku- tatási eredményeikről. 2007-ben Kiskunfélegyházán, 2008-ban Kolozsvárt és Szilágysomlyón. A kiskunfélegyházi előadások kötetben is megjelentek (Bánkiné Molnár Erzsébet szerk: Föld és társadalom, Bibliotheca cumanica 7. Kiskunfél- egyháza 2007), így az ott elhangzottak (Barta János, Egyed Ákos, Georghe Go- run, Orosz István, Papp Klára, Papp Imre tanulmányai), bár fontos megállapítá- sokat tartalmaztak a zempléni szőlőkből származó jövedelmekről, az érmelléki szőlőművelés társadalmi hatásairól, a szőlőföld szerepéről a nagyváradi társada- lom életében, vagy a bihari bordézsmával kapcsolatos társadalmi konfliktusokról, eredeti változatukban nem kerültek be ebbe a kötetbe. Az erdélyi ülésszakok arra is alkalmasak voltak, hogy erősítsék a szakmai kapcsolatokat a hazai, valamint a romániai magyar és nem magyar kutatók között. Nem véletlen, hogy kötetünk, erdélyi kollégáink és Erdély történetével foglal- kozó munkatársunk révén foglalkozhatott a mai Magyarország határain kívül eső szőlőtermelés múltjával is. Ebből a szempontból eredményes volt az együttmű- ködés a tokaji bor történetében fontos szerepet játszó, felső-magyarországi vá- rosok szerepének kutatásában is. A bortermelés a Kárpát-medence történetében kitüntetett helyen állt. Ennek ellenére sem állíthatjuk, hogy a szőlőhegyek és szőlőskertek múltját, noha orszá- gos összefoglalások is születtek, alaposan ismernénk. Pedig nemcsak a termelés technikája és technológiája, de társadalomformáló hatása is megérné a beható vizsgálatot. Meggyőződésem, hogy mindaddig, amíg az egyes bortermelő tájak történetét eredeti forrásanyag alapján nem fogjuk tüzetesen feltárni, országos át- tekintéseink a bortermelés múltjáról nem lesznek megalapozottak. Ez a kötet né- hány hazai borvidék esetében, mind a termelés, mind az értékesítés és a fogyasz- tás tekintetében, remélem, megtette azokat a lépéseket, amelyek révén majdan megalapozott összefoglalás születhet a magyar borkultúra történetéről. Abban a reményben, hogy ezt a történész szakma képviselői és az érdeklődő olvasók is így látják, ajánljuk kötetünket mindenkinek, aki fontosnak tartja a ha- zai szőlőtermelés múltjának megismerését. Debrecen, 2009 decembere Orosz István 9 PÓSÁN LÁSZLÓ BORKERESKEDELEM A KÖZÉPKORI BALTIKUMBAN A Balti-tenger keleti térségében a kereszténység terjedésének, a német hódítás- nak és a telepes mozgalomnak1 köszönhetően jelent meg a bor, amely a keresz- tény vallási liturgia nélkülözhetetlen kellékét jelentette. A kenyérhez és olajhoz hasonlóan a kereszténység a bornak is szimbolikus, vallási tartalmat tulajdoní- tott.2 Liturgiai okokból az egyháznak szüksége volt borra, és ez állandó keresletet teremtett a Baltikumban. A Visztulától a Finn-öbölig terjedően pedig nem egy- szerűen csak egy keresztény ország, hanem a Német Lovagrend fennhatósága alatt egy szerzetesi közösség által irányított territoriális állam jött létre: egy ér- sekséggel, kilenc püspökséggel, káptalanokkal, számos lovagrendi rendházzal, több ciszterci és koldulórendi kolostorral, ispotályokkal,3
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