189 ARTICLES Paul Manning The Theory of the Café Peripheral: Laghidze’s Waters and Peripheral Urban Modernity Theories of the Cafй Central. One of the most celebrated writings on cafйs in general is Polgar’s Theory of the Cafй Central [1926], essentially a feuilleton-manifesto written from within the world of the eponymous Viennese cafй. The theory is not surprising: the cafй expresses a certain kind of modern urban public sub- jectivity. I am only interested in the title. Why does the Cafй Central need a theory? And what kind of theory would a Cafй Peripheral need? A cafй like, for example, Laghidze’s Cafй, a soft drink cafй in Kutaisi, and later Tbilisi, throughout the twentieth century expressed Georgia’s aspirations for European urban modernity. However, since it was located in a periphery and not the metropole, it could not help but express the deeply felt absence of the very modernity it sought to express. An in- carnation here and now of an urban modernity better instantiated elsewhere, it is constantly threatened by its physical situation on the periphery. There are actually a lot of ‘theories of the Cafй Central’, taking ‘cafй central’ in a wider sense: cafйs that happen to occur in places stereo- typically thought to be central to self-con- Paul Manning gratulatory social imaginaries like ‘European Trent University, urban modernity’. In much postwar social Peterborough
[email protected] theory, such public places for commensal No 7 FORUM FOR ANTHROPOLOGY AND CULTURE 190 drinking, what Ellis elsewhere calls ‘archi tectures of sociability’ [Ellis 2008], are emble matic of the tenor of interaction characte - ristic of modern urban public life in general: The early coffee-house was associated with a certain kind of social interaction — what sociologists call a sociability — of which the distinctive feature was an egalitarian and congenial mode of conversation.