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Applauding the Cultural Scene 23_748706 ch15.qxp 1/30/06 8:54 PM Page 289 Chapter 15 Applauding the Cultural Scene In This Chapter ᮣ Getting the inside scoop on London’s theater and performing arts scene ᮣ Going to the symphony, listening to chamber music, and hitting rock concerts ᮣ Seeing opera and dance performances ᮣ Finding out what’s on and getting tickets ondon is a mecca of the performing arts, offering world-class the- Later, a symphony orchestra, rock concerts, operas, modern dance, and classical ballets. In a city renowned for its theater scene, you can enjoy every kind of play or musical. Or take your pick from the city’s own Royal Opera, Royal Ballet, English National Opera, or London Symphony Orchestra. This chapter gives you the information that you need to plan your trip to include the performing arts. Getting the Inside Scoop In the United States, people think of New York City as the theater and performing arts capital. But from a global perspective, London may hold that title, based on the number of offerings and the quality of the per- formances. Of course, London didn’t attain this stature overnight. The city has been building its theatrical reputation since the Elizabethan era, when Shakespeare, Marlowe, and others were staging their plays in a SouthCOPYRIGHTED Bank theater district. A strong musical MATERIAL tradition has been in place since the 18th century. The performing arts scene, in general, helps to give London such a buzz for residents and visitors alike. Major British stars with international screen reputations regularly perform in the West End, although you’re just as likely to see a show starring someone that you’ve never heard of but who’s well known in England. You can also expect to find a few American plays and musicals, because the crossover between London and New York is increasing. 23_748706 ch15.qxp 1/30/06 8:54 PM Page 290 290 Part V: Living It Up after Dark: London Nightlife And here’s some good news: Tickets are considerably cheaper here than in New York. In London theaters, you rarely pay more than £50 ($93) for the best seats in the house. The price is dramatically less for symphony concerts, too: £5 to £20 ($9.25–$37) for excellent seats at the Barbican, for example. The same goes for that priciest of art forms, opera — you can get special day-of-performance seats for £5 to £20 ($9.25–$37). Wondering what to wear to the theater? London theater audiences are, generally speaking, pretty well dressed. There are no hard and fast rules here, but if you arrive in a sweat suit and running shoes, you’ll be pretty conspicuous. A “smart casual” approach is best. Plays and performances in London have varying curtain times. Evening performances may begin at 7:30, 8, or 8:30 p.m., and matinees at 1:30, 2, or 2:30 p.m. Check your ticket to be certain, because if you’re late, you won’t be admitted until the second act or a suitable pause in the action occurs. If you come laden with packages, you can check them in the coatroom. Talking and noisily unwrapping pieces of candy during the performance will be frowned upon — especially if I’m in the audience. Finding Out What’s Playing and Getting Tickets For the most comprehensive listings of London performances, buy a copy of the weekly magazine Time Out, available at London newsstands on Wednesdays. You can find details for all London shows, concerts, and other performances in the daily London newspapers: the Daily Telegraph, the Evening Standard, the Guardian, the Independent, and the Times. Another good source is the free booklet London Planner, available at the British & London Visitor Centre (1 Regent St., SW1), or online or by mail from a VisitBritain travel office (see the Quick Concierge, at the end of this book, for contact info). To find out the performance schedule for an entire season, check out the Web sites that I list for specific opera, symphony, and ballet groups throughout this chapter. The Web is one of the best places to search in advance for information on plays and performances currently running in London. You may find the following sites useful: ߜ www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk ߜ www.londontheatre.co.uk ߜ www.keithprowse.com ߜ www.albemarle-london.com 23_748706 ch15.qxp 1/30/06 8:54 PM Page 291 Chapter 15: Applauding the Cultural Scene 291 Getting tickets If you’re in London and decide that you want to see a show, you’ll probably be able to get a seat. Even if an announcement has been made that a show is sold out, you can usually buy a ticket from the theater’s box office, most of which open at 10 a.m. Ticket cancellations occur, and last-minute house seats go on sale the day of the performance or an hour before. If you don’t have time to go to the box office and you have a major credit card handy, call the theater directly. Box-office phone numbers are listed in the papers and in Time Out. Many London theaters accept telephone credit-card bookings at regular prices (plus a minimal fee of about £1.50/$2.80). They’ll hold your tickets at the box office, where you pick them up any time up to a half-hour before the curtain. By buying directly from the box office, you don’t have to pay the commission fee (up to 30 percent) that ticket agencies charge. Buying a ticket in the stalls doesn’t mean that you’ll be seated in the ladies’ powder room. It means that you may have one of the best seats in the house. Stalls is the British term for first-floor orchestra. Most of the West End theaters are fairly old, which means that they may have boxes for sale as well; these box seats will be on the sides of the second or third tiers. Using ticket agencies Ticket agencies are used for commercial West End plays and musicals, not for opera, ballet, or other performing arts. All over the West End, and particularly around Leicester Square, ticket agencies boldly adver- tise that they have tickets to the sold-out hit shows. Most of these places are legitimate, but their commission fees vary. If you choose to use the services of a ticket agency instead of booking directly with the box office (see the preceding section), I recommend that you call, stop in, or book online at one of the following trustworthy agencies: ߜ Keith Prowse maintains a counter at the Britain & Visitor Center (1 Regent St., SW1; % 020/7808-3871; www.keithprowse.com; Tube: Piccadilly Circus). The counter is open Monday through Friday 10:15 a.m. to 6:15 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You pay a variable commission on top of the ticket price. ߜ The Albemarle Booking Agency (74 Mortimer St., W1; % 020/ 7637-9041; www.albemarle-london.com; Tube: Oxford Circus or Goodge Street) is another long-established agency, open Monday through Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Albemarle maintains dedicated theater desks at several of London’s ritzier hotels, including the Savoy, the Park Lane Hilton, the Dorchester, and Claridge’s (see Chapter 9). Its commission fee of 25 percent on top of the ticket price is what you can expect to pay for just about any theater booking made through a hotel concierge. 23_748706 ch15.qxp 1/30/06 8:54 PM Page 292 292 Part V: Living It Up after Dark: London Nightlife Before you buy any ticket from any agency, the agent must tell you the face value of the tickets (you can ask to see them). Before you sign the charge receipt, be sure to check the seat numbers, the face value of the tickets, and the agent’s booking fee. If you’re making a telephone book- ing, the agent must disclose the face value of the tickets, their locations, and whether you have a restricted view. Beware of unlicensed ticket agencies that charge far more than the face value of the ticket plus a very hefty commission fee. A commission fee should never be more than 30 percent of the regular ticket price. Reputable ticket agencies belong to the Society of Ticket Agents and Retailers (STAR) and always advertise this fact. The Society of London Theatres (% 020/7836-0971) operates a half- price ticket booth in the clock tower building by the gardens in Leicester Square (Tube: Leicester Square). The booth has no telephone info line, so you have to show up in person to see what’s on sale that day. The booth is open Monday through Saturday noon to 6:30 p.m. and noon to 2 p.m. for matinees (which may be on Wed, Thurs, Sat, or Sun). Tickets are sold only on the day of the performance; you can pay with cash or by MasterCard or Visa. You pay exactly half the price plus a nominal fee (usually about £3/$5.50). The most popular shows usually won’t be avail- able, but you may luck out. Tickets for the English National Opera and other events are sometimes available as well. You may want to stop by, in any case, to pick up a free copy of The Official London Theatre Guide, which lists every show with addresses and phone numbers and includes a map of the West End theater district.
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