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An Archive of Taste: Race and Eating in the Early United States Lauren Klein, Emory University

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An Archive of Taste: Race and Eating in the Early United States Lauren Klein, Emory University An Archive of Taste: Race and Eating in the Early United States Lauren Klein, Emory University Publisher: University of Minnesota Press Publication Place: Minneapolis, MN Publication Date: 2020-05-12 Type of Work: Book | Final Publisher PDF Permanent URL: https://pid.emory.edu/ark:/25593/vf508 Final published version: https://www.upress.umn.edu/book-division/books/an-archive-of-taste Copyright information: 2020 by Lauren F. Klein This is an Open Access work distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Accessed September 23, 2021 11:11 AM EDT An Archive of Taste This page intentionally left blank ©International Monetary Fund. Not for Redistribution An Archive of Taste Race and Eating in the Early United States Lauren F. Klein University of Minnesota Press Minneapolis London This book is freely available in an open access edition thanks to TOME (Toward an Open Monograph Ecosystem)—a collaboration of the Association of American Universities, the Association of University Presses, and the Association of Research Libraries—and the gen- erous support of Emory University and the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation. Learn more at the TOME website, available at: openmonographs.org. A different version of chapter 1 was published as “Dinner-Table Bargains: Thomas Jeffer- son, James Madison, and the Senses of Taste,” Early American Literature 49, no. 2 (Spring 2014): 403– 33; copyright 2014 by the University of North Carolina Press, reprinted by permission of the publisher, www.uncpress.org. Different versions of portions of chapter 3 were published in “Speculative Aesthetics,” Early American Literature 51, no. 2 (Spring 2016): 437– 45; copyright 2016 University of North Carolina Press, reprinted by permis- sion of the publisher, www.uncpress.org. A different version of a portion of chapter 4 was published in “The Matter of Early American Taste,” in The Cambridge Companion to Food and Literature, ed. J. Michelle Coughlan (Cambridge University Press, 2020); copy- right 2020, Cambridge University Press, reprinted with permission. A different version of chapter 5 was published as “The Image of Absence: Archival Silence, Data Visualization, and James Hemings,” American Literature 85, no. 4 (Winter 2013): 661–88; copyright 2013, Duke University Press, reprinted by permission, www.dukeupress.edu. Copyright 2020 by Lauren F. Klein An Archive of Taste: Race and Eating in the Early United States is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0): https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Published by the University of Minnesota Press 111 Third Avenue South, Suite 290 Minneapolis, MN 55401- 2520 http://www.upress.umn.edu ISBN 978-1-5179-0508-8 (hc) ISBN 978-1-5179-0509-5 (pb) A Cataloging-in-Publication record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper The University of Minnesota is an equal- opportunity educator and employer. UMP BmB 2020 To my parents This page intentionally left blank ©International Monetary Fund. Not for Redistribution Contents Acknowledgments ix Introduction: No Eating in the Archive 1 1. Taste: Eating and Aesthetics in the Early United States 21 2. Appetite: Eating, Embodiment, and the Tasteful Subject 49 3. Satisfaction: Aesthetics, Speculation, and the Theory of Cookbooks 81 4. Imagination: Food, Fiction, and the Limits of Taste 109 5. Absence: Slavery and Silence in the Archive of Eating 135 Epilogue: Two Portraits of Taste 165 Notes 175 Bibliography 205 Index 225 This page intentionally left blank ©International Monetary Fund. Not for Redistribution Acknowledgments This book began nearly a decade ago as a dissertation at the Graduate Center of the City University of New York. It seems only fitting that I should begin these acknowledgments by thanking my dissertation com- mittee members, David S. Reynolds, Duncan Faherty, Ammiel Alcalay, and Joshua Wilner, who helped to shape the project in its initial stages. David Reynolds has remained a steadfast supporter of my work, and Duncan Faherty has become a trusted mentor, colleague, and friend. I owe a debt of gratitude to Jenny Davidson, who joined my committee as an outside reader, and has since become a dear friend. At several key phases of this project, as she has throughout my career, Jenny generously offered her expert intellectual guidance and professional advice. I would not be writing these words of thanks without the gift of her friendship. I should also thank Joe Ugoretz, who directed the Instructional Tech- nology Fellowship (ITF) program where I worked during my final years of graduate school. He remains an exemplar of graduate- student mentor- ship and advocacy. My colleagues in the ITF program, especially Jeff Drouin, Lisa Brundage, John Sorrentino, and Helen Davis, provided soli- darity and support during the dissertation- writing process. Several col- leagues in my cohort at the Grad Center, as well as several friends at other institutions, read and commented on early drafts of this work. Anton Borst, Rebekah Rutkoff, Karen Weingarten, Karen Weiser, Nora Morri- son, and Tim Alborn deserve particular mention for their input during those years, as does Sari Altschuler, whose path has fortuitously contin- ued to intersect with my own. I am grateful for her friendship as well as her disciplinary expertise, which has significantly enriched this book. I could not have known that the writing group that Sarah Blackwood, Kyla Schuller, Karen Weingarten, and I convened in my final year in New York would continue into the present, nor could I have imagined how much I would come to rely on it as a source of intellectual engagement and emotional support. Time and time again, these three kind, generous, ix x · ACKNOWLEDGMENTS and razor- sharp scholars read over these pages, commenting at the levels of argument, structure, sentence, and tone. This book is so much better for their contributions, as I am for their friendship. In my first year in Atlanta, Nihad Farooq and Natalia Cecire quickly became trusted colleagues and treasured friends. Nihad and Natalia are also among those who read numerous chapter drafts, enriching this book with their keen insights. Additional friends read and offered feedback on sections of this book: Matt Gold, Dawn Peterson, and Yanni Loukissas. My thanks goes to them as well. I thank the anonymous readers at the University of Minnesota Press, whose generous and generative comments greatly improved this book. I also thank the anonymous readers at Early American Literature and American Literature for their feedback on the essays that would become chapters 1 and 5, respectively. Ed Larkin and Ed Cahill offered valuable feedback on the essay in Early American Literature that would form the conceptual basis for chapter 3. J. Michelle Coghlan provided thoughtful commentary on the previously published book chapter from which portions of chapter 4 are drawn. As I prepared this book for publication, David Lobenstine’s expert edi- torial eye helped me to refine the book’s argument and structure and pushed me to clarify each and every claim. I remain so appreciative of the time he invested in this project. Thanks are owed also to Paul Vincent, who copyedited the manuscript, and David Martinez, who indexed the book. Although I moved to Emory University in fall 2019, this book was written during my time at Georgia Tech, where I worked between 2011 and 2019. In the School of Literature, Media, and Communication, my colleagues Nihad Farooq, Yanni Loukissas, Carl DiSalvo, Anne Pollock, Aaron Santesso, Narin Hassan, Chris LeDantec, Nassim Parvin, Joycelyn Wilson, Janet Murray, Hugh Crawford, Carol Colatrella, Susana Morris, and André Brock all provided crucial grounding and moral support as I completed the book manuscript. My department chair during that time, Richard Utz, was steadfast in support of my scholarship. A research fel- lowship from the New York Public Library (NYPL) in fall 2013 also enabled me to conduct crucial archival work for this project. I thank Thomas Lannon, of the NYPL Manuscripts and Archives Division, for his invaluable assistance and expertise. At the University of Minnesota Press, deep thanks are owed to Dani- elle Kasprzak, who acquired the project and guided me through the ini- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS · xi tial review process; and to Pieter Martin, who saw the book through pub- lication, providing reassurance and support. Throughout the process, Anne Carter remained a constant source of information and expertise. In the production department, Mike Stoffel and Ana Bichanich also pro- vided invaluable assistance. Over the decade that it has taken to usher this book into the world, I have been buoyed by my friendships: Aileen Brophy, Nora Morrison, Mike Epstein, Sarah Madigan, Toby Moore, Mary Beth Kennedy, Sloan John- ston, Eamon Johnson, Frances Wall Jha, Saurabh Wall Jha, Jess Daniels, Gaylen Moore, JC Dwyer, Jenny Davidson, Jen Liu, Luca Marinelli, Ian Loew, Loren Hough, Meredith Betterton, Nihad Farooq, Todd Michney, Jacob Eisenstein, Shawn Ramirez, Yanni Loukissas, Kate Diedrick, Lauren Wilcox, Richard Patterson, Carl DiSalvo, Betsy DiSalvo, Chris LeDantec, Renata LeDantec, Miriam Posner, Natalia Cecire, Sari Altschuler, Sarah Blackwood, Lauren Waterman, Karen Weingarten, Kyla Schuller, Leora Bersohn, Carrie Weber, Catherine D’Ignazio, and many more I could continue to name. Among my extended family, Jon Zinman and Mary Coffey, Beth and Dick Zinman, and Rand Niederhoffer and Adam Lapidus deserve special thanks for their interest in the project, and their support along the way. Among the first conversations I had with my partner, Greg Zinman, were about this project, and it is not an understatement to say that this book would not exist without him. For over a decade, I have turned to him in my moments of greatest doubt and greatest inspiration.
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