Dive Traveller Ya p A MICRONESIAN TREASURE Words and Photography by David Fleetham

Left: Grey reef sharks circle above soft coral on a reef. This page: An aerial view of the southern end of the reef surrounding the island of Yap

50 Magazine www.divermag.com 51 Dive Traveller MANTAFEST 2019 David Fleetham will be one of six photo pros participating in the 12th annual Manifest photo festival from August 24 through September 8th at the Manta Ray Bay Resort. Besides seminars, workshops and evening media presentations, all participants will be eligible for a photo contest involving images shot during the festival. There are separate categories for digital SLR, compact camera, and video, so both the seasoned shooter and the beginner have a chance at some impressive prizes. The pros will be diving every day with the participants and offering tips above and below to improve your photo skills. For more information visit: www.mantafest.com

he water is a and reluctantly allows the shrimp, Macro to micro apparent effect on my subjects. (23-30ºC) through out the year, with The manta diving here is so significant offer guests a great chance of balmy 84°F claws and arms carrying tiny bits - a close look at I back away slowly and wave heavy rains possible at any time. diving with a manta any day of the (29°C). This is of rubble, to emerge from the den a whip coral goby to share the opportunity with a The water temperature is a balmy that Yap State is now a field research year, not just certain seasons. The good. I have it has constructed for the two nearby photographer in search of 82-84ºF (27-28ºC), with a 3mm secret to the consistency of their been lying on the of them. The shrimp keeps one a subject. wetsuit being more than enough site for the Manta Trust encounters is that you make the dive rubble bottom antennae in physical contact with Yap is part of the Federated to be comfortable on some of the to a cleaning station and remain for over ten the goby in order to communicate. States of Micronesia and the Yapese longer dives. for manta rays, their close relatives, stationary on the bottom, and the minutes, waiting Once they are at the maximum people’s indigenous cultures and and their habitat. The rays are mantas come to you. The dives in for the shrimp to distance this physical link will traditions are admirably the most The Manta Trust being identified, measured, and the channels of the outer reef to emerge from its den. Beside me a allow, the shrimp dumps its load authentic still in existence in the Yap was recognized early on as indexed in a custom database for observe mating behaviour are timed goby has been watching warily. My and disappears back into the hole Pacific Region. The main island of one of the best places in the world the conservation of all Micronesian with the tides for the best visibility, elbowsT are on the bottom to hold for further excavation. I manage Yap is actually four islands, three to observe manta rays up close at manta rays. Over 50 manta rays which comes with incoming clear the camera steady and my eye is eleven shots in the few seconds it of which are connected. There are cleaning stations. At certain times have been identified and named open ocean water. Their dive trained on the viewfinder. I attempt takes the shrimp to complete this fourteen outer islands (mostly atolls) of year, it’s also possible witness through photographs of their unique guides know the area extremely the most relaxed breathing I can operation. My twin Ikelite strobes scattered to the east and south of mating “trains” of mantas gliding underside patterns. It’s a great well and will put you in just the muster so not to disturb my vigilant fire on each shutter release but the main islands, some nearly 500 one after the other through two of opportunity for citizen scientists and right place to have these winged subject. The dive site, called Slow the bright flashes of light have no miles (800km) away. The entire state the channels in the outer reef that underwater photographers, and if giants swoop over your head. At the and Easy, is ten minutes away has come to be known as Yap in surrounds the islands. The manta you are fortunate enough to capture cleaning stations small wrasse and from the Manta Ray Bay Resort in recent years. The capital, Colonia, diving here is so significant that an image of a new individual, you butterflyfish search the mantas for Yap, where I am spending three Dive guides know the area and will put is surrounded for the most part Yap State is now a field research get the honour of naming it! A majestic manta parasites on their extensive surface weeks with groups of divers who by rolling hills that lead down to site for the Manta Trust (www. Obviously, diving with mantas is ray gliding over a and even in the gills and mouth. each had one thing in mind: to you in just the right place to have these mangrove forests interspersed with mantatrust.org), a UK-based a bucket list item for nearly every cleaning station Diving from the resort is done take pictures underwater. The narrow beaches along the coast. charity that co-ordinates global visiting diver. What I like about in M’il Channel, from a variety of fast boats, 21 to goby finally moves to one side winged giants swoop over your head Temperatures range from 75-86ºF research and conservation efforts Manta Ray Bay Resort is that they Yap, Micronesia 38 feet (6.5 to 11.5m) long, all with

52 Magazine www.divermag.com 53 Dive Traveller A banded boxer shrimp checks closely on this giant moray eel

twin engines and hard covers to The bait is kept in a tube and placed The common place in the big picture of our oceans protect passengers and crew from in the reef where the sharks have anemonefish, and have no interest in bubble- the tropical sunrays. These flat roofs to work to get to it. It is the perfect guaranteed to blowing scuba divers. In most add a splash proved to be a perfect take-off and set-up for photographers. The places when sharks hear divers’ of colour and landing point for my drone. Which sharks know that eventually they will cuteness to bubbles they swim in the opposite vessel you end up on depends on get a bite to eat and, while patiently any dive direction, making encounters like this how many divers are going and waiting, they swim calmly amongst genuinely special. where. Some of the routes are tide- the divers. If you want to get a close On the outer reef, which dependent and require the smaller look at a shark, just move closer stretches out to the south of the boats to weave their way through to the bait container. If you prefer island, is Yap Caverns, definitely narrow passages in the mangroves. to view from a distance, just move one of the country’s top five dive A truly memorable experience. back. The visibility on the outer walls sites. Spinner dolphin are regularly is well over 100 feet (30m) and the encountered on the commute and More than mantas show can last for the entire dive. if they are in the mood will come to There are over thirty named dive It is a perfect illustration of how the bow and stay with the boat for sites on the outer reef drop off. One misunderstood sharks are. They much of the trip. Strong currents of my favourites is Vertigo, Manta aren’t the senseless killing machines regularly sweep down the wall in Ray Bay’s shark dive. They have that so much of our world still varying directions and meet not too been feeding sharks here for over believes. They fulfill a much-needed far from the site in a swirling soup 25 years and the residents know the of deep water nutrients where you operation quite well. The moment regularly can see a complete food the guide ties up to the mooring, Blacktip reef sharks appear, casually chain competing for a meal. Tuna blacktip reef sharks appear, casually chase small baitfish to the surface, swimming around the boat. They are swimming around the boat, soon joined where they are attacked from soon joined by whitetip reef sharks above by sea birds. The caverns and, a bit deeper, gray reef sharks. by whitetip and gray reef sharks themselves are a section of the

54 Magazine www.divermag.com 55 Dive Traveller wall that collapsed into the deep and provides a sanctuary from the moving water. The caves, canyons, and swim-throughs provide a maze that takes more than just one dive to explore. On the outer wall, closer to the current, colourful schools of anthias pulse above the MEMBERSHIP. reef, plucking passing morsels. Clownfish in various colours dart BENEFITS. about their anemones attending to the nest of eggs they have placed YOU. just beside their tentacled host. Deeper down, gray reef sharks regularly visit a cleaning station. + $100,000 Emergency These sharks must swim continually Evacuation Assistance and when being cleaned will hover vertically with their tails beating just enough to keep them in one + 24/7 Emergency Hotline position, while small wrasse enter their mouth to check between their lockers in which to place everything. A massive from massive beams, with teak walls two varieties in 130-gallon (600-litre) follow them for a while you will inevitably + Medical Information Line teeth. This is always a two-tank trip Beside this area are camera bays, school of that are now well over 100 years old. batches just off the hotel’s lobby and has pass by several others and inevitably lose with lunch; sometimes even three set up for photographers so you convict It has three levels with two bars and the science of brewing down to a fine art. your original pair in the bedlam. surgeonfish, + Access to Dive Accident tanks, depending on the conditions don’t have to drag your equipment a huge movie screen mounted in the The flight out of Yap is in the evening also known as Insurance Protection and the enthusiasm of your fellow back to your room each night. Every convict tangs forward rigging where marine life The Rai and often on this last day you will have passengers. section has its own lockable storage presentations take place, as well as The name ‘Stone Money’ comes from the option of touring one of the local No mater how good the diving compartment and charging station. with first run movies. one of the island’s most intriguing cultural villages. On occasion some of the + Health And Diving on the excursions, it is always a Right off the dive shop, a short Understanding the needs of divers customs. The ancient currency is still young people will present dances in pleasure to step off the boat back walkway over the water leads to the runs to more than just thoughtful in use today and involves round carved their traditional colourful dress. They Resource Library at a resort that understands the Mnuw, a 170-foot (52m) long Phinisi equipment storage areas: the resort stones known as ‘Rai’, which are up to are enthusiastic performers and always need of divers: plenty of water for schooner originally from Indonesia has its own microbrewery, the Stone 13 feet (4m) in diameter with a hole in the curious about visitors. There is time for rinsing, a place to hang dive gear to that is now the resort’s restaurant Money Brewing Company. Freddy, centre. The source of the stone for the one last sunset and meal aboard the dry over night, and even individual and bar. The ship was constructed their Swiss brewmeister, produces Rai is not located on Yap. The massive, Mnuw before the final packing of bags. solid stone wheels were quarried from as Off the beaten path, Yap is one of far away as Papua New Guinea, although those destinations that will lure you back. DAN.org/JOIN BOOK YOUR NEXT the majority of them were cut by hand in I have lost count of the number of times I FAMILY DIVE ADVENTURE! the nearby islands of Palau. Still, Palau have visited over the last thirty years and BELIZE is over 300 miles (480km) away – a long my most recent trip won’t be my last. trip by outrigger canoe! There are over BONAIRE 6000 stones of varying sizes around the GRAND CAYMAN islands and the value of each is tied not CAYMAN BRAC only to the size, but also to the fable of LITTLE CAYMAN the pilgrimage to get the Rai back home. FIJI Over the years canoes and lives were GALAPAGOS lost. The “coins” are unquestionably the largest currency that exists. There is not INDONESIA even a close second. Interestingly, when KOMODO a stone is used in a land transaction LEMBEH or wedding, often it is not moved. MALDIVES The identity of the new owner simply MEXICO becomes common knowledge. GOOD TO KNOW: SEA OF CORTEZ Six minutes from the resort’s dock Getting there: flights into Yap are BAJA is a site favoured for night dives called Rainbow Reef. Visibility inside the limited. Most itineraries include a stop in Guam and then a flight on United SOCORRO ISLANDS lagoon is not the 100 foot+ (30m+) that PALAU Airlines to Yap. Yap is part of the you find outside the reef during the day, Federated States of Micronesia. PHILIPPINES but this site offers a unique encounter. When to go: Temperatures range from RAJA AMPAT Impossibly-coloured mandarinfish 75-86ºF (23-30ºC) through out the year, ROATAN inhabit the maze of antler coral found with heavy rains possible at any time. THE WORLD’S BEST SABA & ST. KITTS here and shortly after dusk males Stay and dive with: Manta Ray Bay Resort www.mantaray.com FAMILY DIVE VACATIONS ST. LUCIA search for a mate. After a complicated dance that can include competing Water temps: water temperature is a TURK & CAICOS males, a pair will rise out of the coral balmy 82-84ºF (27-28ºC) with a 3mm “GIVE THEM A WEEK YAP wetsuit more than adequate to be and in an explosion of eggs and sperm comfortable on longer dives. THEY WILL REMEMBER FOREVER.” renew their species. This happens in FAMILY DIVE Topside Top Tip: Try the fresh fish [email protected] 803-419-2556 www.familydivers.com ADVENTURES several locations around the world, but tacos and the Hammerhead Amber Ale this site is unique in the density of the at the Stone Money Brewing Company. population. Once you find a couple and

56 Magazine www.divermag.com

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