0vtƒdtƒ0vtƒdtƒ

ASIAN ARTS & CULTURE SPECIAL Q`tjhjtf -j` 10 Mhd pdf`b ve C`p`bb` 16 ;tcj` 0hjtdd cj`wv}` 19 8„ƒvtf jt .djkjtf -}ajƒ}`fd w}jbd bhdbm

3 ¡ 5`hjvt 25 ¡ M`ƒd 28 ¡ 8jƒ Ajƒ J„ddt ve ƒhd c}`wd Mhd `}ƒ ve fp` jt =`w`t 0vtƒdqwv}`} 4 ¡ Lwv}ƒ 26 ¡ Mjqd Gee `}ƒjƒ 5dtf Zhdtfkjd ƒvw .}jtf jƒ vtª av 0j}b„ jt .djkjtf Avtcvt `}ƒ q„d„q 6 ¡ 5vvc  1}jtm Kv`p .`ppdƒ jt 8vtf ?vtf 1jtd l.d`„ƒ  ƒhd Mhd 1jhI 8`tvj whv .d`ƒ q„jb`p jt ?„`p` H`w` 1vapd A„qw„} lTjbmdc q„jb`p 8 ¡ M}`Šdp jt Cdpav„}td 0dppv bvtbd}ƒ 0jƒ T`pmI 8vtf ?vtf jt Ldv„p 5jpq edƒjŠ`p jt 24 ¡ .vvm Lctd KjŠd}c`tbd ƒv„} -j` O}a`t pdfdtc

WSJ.com Cover: A 1930s photograph found torn and discarded in a Malacca Weekend Journal online building (Lim Huck Chin and See slideshows of Malacca’s heritage Fernando Jorge) S. Karene Witcher Editor and India’s Chinese diaspora, plus This page: Ng Ah Kee at the Sin view a video of our latest City Walk— Jessica Yu News graphics director See Tai barbershop in Malacca (Lim David Chan Hong Kong—at WSJ.com/Travel Art director Huck Chin and Fernando Jorge), Mary E. Kissel Taste page editor top; Shockers cheerleading team email [email protected] For more on Japan’s all-male (Steve West), left; ‘Pies de Plomo cheerleading squad Shockers, see (Zapateado Luz),’ by Rubén Ramos ? ’œx‹ {tš ‘ ‘€ WSJ.com/Sports Balsa (Rubén Ramos Balsa), right M83 T-AA LMK33M =GOKE-A -L;-+

                5`hjvt

Dresses by Madame Grès show her signature draping, left, and kimono sleeves, right; New York vintage collector Juliana Cairone, Mhd pvƒ fvccdd center, at her store How a rare collection of vintage gowns was found . 0h}jƒjt` .jtmpd

eople often think of vintage Vintage, in New York City. seum of Art’s Costume Institute Ms. Cairone continues to dis- without putting on lotion or clothes as bargain-priced dis- The prices at Rare Vintage ball, and she mentioned her find. creetly reach out to other poten- scent. She then headed to Rare Hcoveries. So it may be hard range from a few hundred dollars Mr. Bolton expressed interest in tial buyers. But she is aware that Vintage and tried on a multihued to fathom the excitement of New to $10,000. One day earlier this two of the dresses, and the Met she may be condemning the teal and red dress. “There’s a York collector Juliana Cairone year, the shop’s long rack of cou- inspected them for a week. The dresses to decades in a museum part of me that feels clothing when eight dresses from a now-ob- ture gowns and dresses included museum declined to comment on archival box. The other day, she should have a warm body inside scure designer emerged recently a pale blue and gray Valentino any possible acquisition. dressed carefully in the morning, it,” she says. from a New Jersey basement. goddess dress and a Chanel dress But in the rarefied world of trimmed with ostrich feathers. fashion collecting, the name of the She has stumbled along the mysterious couturier Madame way—once she bought what she Grès has its own allure. Ms. Grès, thought was a Grès gown, but only who worked from the 1920s into the bodice was original. A “Dior” the 1980s, defined the modern Gre- she was sent turned out not to be— cian goddess gown. “She’s such a details such as the brand of zip- critical designer that anything by per, which was YKK rather than her is significant,” says Andrew the expected Éclair, were the tell- Bolton, assistant curator of the tale clues. Her reputation grew: Metropolitan Museum of Art’s She dressed Angelina Jolie in a Costume Institute in New York. flowing Hermès gown for Janu- The eight dresses include a teal ary’s Screen Actors Guild Awards. silk-jersey goddess gown, a multi- A month ago, Ms. Cairone re- hued ’70s caftan-like number and ceived an email from a vintage- a rust kimono-sleeved dress. clothing appraiser inviting her to Today, Ms. Grès is more col- see several suits and dresses by lected than worn. For serious fash- Christian Dior and Madame Grès. ion collectors, clothes are art, and Ms. Cairone high-tailed it out to a the perspiration and skin oils of small home outside New York City. bodies are dangers. While there It was the Grès dresses that are plenty of women who buy and drew her. Madame Grès, born Ger- wear vintage fashion, some of the maine Krebs, was once as well- rarest pieces go to private collec- known as her contemporary Coco tions and museums such as the Chanel, but Ms. Grès designed Louvre in Paris. These days, the only handmade haute couture market is lively, fed by London auc- that sold first as the label “Alix” tions and private deals, with prices and later as “Madame Grès.” rising at times to $20,000 or more Without a juggernaut corporate for 20th-century garments. investor and global ready-to- Filling such collections is as wear lines, Ms. Grès, who died in much about scavenging as shop- 1993, disappeared into obscurity. ping. Many of the best pieces are The Grès dresses, Ms. Cairone sitting in people’s closets or in for- was told, were purchased in Paris gotten storerooms. Often, they’re in the 1970s and 1980s by a mildewed, faded or altered— wealthy New Yorker and then their value diminished. The Met passed on to a family employee regularly scours eBay looking to about 10 years ago. The employee flesh out its fashion collections— passed the dresses to her daugh- and finds things, Mr. Bolton says. ter, who called an appraiser. Ms. Cairone, a soft-spoken To Ms. Cairone’s disappoint- mother of twins, started out buy- ment, one had been altered into a ing vintage haute couture to wear. suit, erasing most of its value. But But when her collection spilled the other eight dresses were in out of her closet into the rest of near-perfect condition. She esti- her New York apartment, she set mates she’ll sell them for be- up a booth at a trade show to sell tween $5,900 and $10,000 apiece. off a few pieces. One thing led to The following week, Ms. another, and a few years back, she Cairone was seated next to Mr. opened a boutique, called Rare Bolton at the Metropolitan Mu- Rare Vintage (dresses); Kurt Wilberding/WSJ

   
          Lwv}ƒ

     In Japanese cheerleading, one squad stands apart . E`vƒv Gm`q„}`

Tokyo 20-year-old Daiki Kanai, who at the top of their lungs in unison Shockers at Tokyo’s prestigious Shockers began with Mr. Kano national cheerleading started cheerleading two years at sporting events like college Waseda University in 2004, says and four other students. They competition in Japan ago. “Our hard practice finally baseball games. They are accom- it was initially a whim—he trained at least three evenings a a few months ago pit- paid off.” panied by drums, and wave a thought it would be fun and he’d week, often in a nearby park un- ted teams of young American-style cheerleading large school flag that they con- gain attention by leading a der streetlights, at times sneak- miniskirted women is increasingly popular in Japan, sider sacred. It’s serious busi- group of men waving pompoms. ing into an all-girls high school to against- one another. but—as in other countries, in- ness—smiling is a big taboo. But once he saw female cheer- practice with its cheerleaders The winners, though, looked a cluding the U.S.—all-male teams Little wonder that when Ameri- leaders practicing, he was taken and their coach. little different. are rare indeed. Founded four can-style cheerleading, with its by the skills required. New members started trick- For one thing, the 24-mem- years ago by an enterprising col- smiles and lively pop songs, ar- “It’s thrilling when you nail the ling in, including former soccer ber Shockers squad dresses in lege student, Shockers has rived in the mid-1980s, many Japa- acrobatic moves,” says Mr. Kano, and basketball players, and by baggy shorts and T-shirts. For gained nationwide fame show- nese were captivated. The new now 23, who played varsity base- the time of Waseda’s school festi- another, it consists entirely of ing its athletic moves on televi- style quickly spread, and today the ball in high school. “Cheerleading val that autumn, Shockers had 10 men. Shockers bested 14 all-fe- sion. But the members have a country has more than 300 squads, has elements of both entertain- members. Their performance at male teams to win the main broader mission: to help bring some with members in their 70s, ment and athleticism, and that’s the festival, in front of 5,000 curi- cheerleading category, impress- the spirit and fun back to an ac- though most are made up of fe- what appeals to me.” ous observers, put Shockers in ing the judges with a dynamic tivity that has turned increas- male high-school and college stu- This being Japan, members the spotlight. Invitations came in 2µ-minute routine that in- ingly rigid in Japan. dents who cheer for their school say they have also found a spiri- to appear on TV shows and to per- cluded back flips and airborne Organized cheering or oendan sports teams. (Shockers is an ex- tual side to the sport. “By synchro- form in a halftime show at a pro- splits. It was the team’s second has deep roots in Japan. Men ception in this, also—it cheers nizing not only our moves but our fessional soccer game. championship at this event in clad in white gloves and tradi- mostly at events like festivals, as hearts, cheerleading has helped The Shockers team focuses on three years. tional black school uniforms well as the annual competition.) build our characters,” says Naoki moves that take advantage of “It was so exhilarating,” says with high collars sing and chant Yohei Kano, who founded Kitou, a founding member. their physical strength. In one,

               several men form a tight circle the Foundation of Japan Cheer- dance, jumps and difficult stunts and together toss a smaller team- leading Association, the within 150 seconds. After losing mate four or five meters in the 300-member organization that in the semifinals last year, Shock- air, catching him just before he runs the country’s largest cheer- ers recaptured the title at this hits the ground. A still showier leading competitions. The JCA event in March. move is the “Scorpion,” in which says it has no rules against all- To keep in shape, Shockers Go, Shockers! three members hold up a fourth, male squads—one all-male high- members normally practice three who stands on one leg and ex- school group is a member—but it times a week and do additional Shockers, go. tends the other leg behind his does have one against unap- workouts to hone their skills. But Shockers say, “Black.” head—similar to the Biellmann proved media appearances. That for the two months before the spin position in figure skating. made Shockers’ heavy TV expo- competition, they increased that Shockers say, “Yellow.” Only two team members can pull sure a problem. JCA declined to to five or six days a week, three OK! that off, though. comment further. hours a day. The smaller mem- The team also stands out with The rejection keeps Shockers bers constantly watch their diets Black and yellow. its uniforms: black T-shirts and out of JCA’s many competitions, so they don’t get too heavy for Black and yellow. shorts with yellow lightning preventing it from facing off their peers to support. Let’s go. marks with matching black-and- against the nation’s top squads. Mr. Kano, the founder, gradu- yellow pompoms. “Black and yel- But Mr. Kano found a smaller ated from Waseda in March and Shockers go for love low are often used to represent a cheerleading body, USA Japan, or- started a career as a reporter at and peace. warning against danger. So, we ganized by the U.S.-based United a Japanese newspaper. (As a se- wanted to say, ‘People, beware of Spirit Association, that gave nior, he didn’t participate in the Go for love us!’” Mr. Kano says. Shockers a chance to take on March championship.) His old and peace. International students at other non-JCA squads. It’s USA teammates, though, continue to Waseda say they were skeptical Japan that holds the annual USA establish fresh goals, including Lhvbmd} ‹jttjtf wd}ev}q`tbd about Shockers at first. “Cheer- Nationals competition that spreading all-male cheerleading `ƒ =`w`t OL- E`ƒjvt`p leading and men—I wasn’t sure Shockers won in March. and eventually competing in a bhdd}pd`cjtf bvqwdƒjƒjvt what to think,” says Alisha That win continued a strong cheerleading event in the jt C`}bh jtbp„cdc ƒhj bhdd}+ Smyth, a graduate student from record at the USA Nationals: In U.S.—though to do that, they Alaska who says she had never 2005, Shockers placed second have to wait for an all-male cate- seen an all-male cheerleading out of 20 teams in freestyle, in gory to be created. group at home. But after watch- which teams can freely compose “I want the team members to ing Shockers in action, she says their own moves. The next year, keep challenging themselves to she was impressed that they the members came in first place pursue a pioneering spirit for as were “much more athletic than in the most challenging cate- long as they can,” he says. female cheerleaders.” gory, cheerleading, which re- Other recognition came quires completing a series of Naoto Okamura is a harder. Shockers was rejected by specified elements including Tokyo-based writer. Steve West

   
          5vvc  1}jtm

 


This simple bowl of noodles is a Hanoi specialty . 0p`„cj` .p„qd

here’s a Vietnamese Vietnam village (and moved to quip about the noodle Hanoi as a student). “My mother dish pho that— would only buy it for us when roughly translated— we were sick.” goes, “Without rice These days, bowls of pho are (Mcom) we will die. But having served in Vietnamese restau- eaten rice, we still prefer pho.” rants from Paris to Palm Springs. The phrase contains a cheeky But to get a real taste of this fa- double-entendre: Com, the coun- mous noodle soup there is but try’s everyday staple food, is also one place to go: Hanoi. a metaphor for wife, while pho— the more special dish—repre- The History sents the mistress. Pho is a northern Vietnamese This hot, steamy soup, which dish. It originated in the north- blends rice noodles, sliced meat, ern city of Nam Dinh in the Red herbs and spices, is a traditional River Delta, where an industrial breakfast dish for many Vietnam- zone for textiles was estab- ese, but it is also a popular meal lished at the beginning of the at any other time of the day. For 20th century. Workers didn’t many, it is the culinary symbol of have time to return home for Vietnam—similar to Spain’s lunch, as was the custom, says paella, Korea’s kimchi or Hong Didier Corlou, owner and head subsequent partition of the carried a wooden pole holding a 14 years as the executive chef of Kong’s dim sum. chef of Hanoi’s French-Vietnam- country. In the Communist- bucket on either end on their Hanoi’s famous Sofitel Metro- In the years following the ese restaurant La Verticale. So ruled north, many private pho shoulders. One bucket con- pole hotel and has written war with the U.S., as the country people began to sell noodle restaurants were forced to close tained a pot for the broth and an three Vietnamese cookbooks, struggled to recover, the simple soups in front of the factories. and were replaced by govern- earthenware stove, called a cof- says this noodle dish bears a re- dish was a luxury, a special For several decades, pho re- ment-run eateries. Northern fre-feu in French. Some culinary semblance to the popular treat. “Pho was too expensive mained a northern dish. This Vietnamese fleeing the Commu- experts say this is the origin of French beef stew, pot-au-feu. for us back then,” remembers changed in the mid-1950s after nist regime introduced the soup the word pho, which is pro- One ingredient of both the bank-training consultant the defeat of the French, who to the southern provinces. nounced just like the French French stew and the Vietnam- Nguyen Quang Khai, a 39-year- had colonized Vietnam since For a long time, pho was sold word for fire—feu. ese noodle soup—grilled shal- old who grew up in a northern the late 19th century, and the by roving street hawkers who Mr. Corlou, who served for lots—isn’t typically found in
   

rnest Hemingway claims them to be “the ultimate Cocktail scholar Philip Greene scribed the drink as “basically had a reputation achievement of the daiquiri-mak- (a government intellectual-prop- rum, lemon and sugar over 3 for a prodigious er’s art,” adding that he “made a erty lawyer in Washington) was crushed ice, with a Maraschino thirst—and no one did run of sixteen here one night.” able to track down the source of cherry”—not only passing on the more to play up the heroic “This size?” Mr. Hotchner the mistake: a translation error one error but compounding it magnitude of his drinking asks, incredulous. The bartender, in a bilingual recipe booklet the with several more of his own. than Hemingway himself. with a nod and the simple state- Floridita itself published in 1937 A fanatic for desiccation in his Whenever someone made the ment “House record,” confirms as a promotional giveaway. The drinks, Hemingway allowed no pilgrimage to Havana to be intro- Hemingway’s triumph. English-language recipe calls for sugar in his Daiquiris. Part of the duced to the novelist, Heming- Few drinks have achieved the the “juice of 1/2 lemon.” But the reason was that it was harder to way would meet him at La Flor- fame of the Papa Doble. And few Spanish original next to it speci- put them away in quantity: “If ida bar, affectionately known as drinks have been so regularly fies “Jugo 1/2 limon verde”—that you drank that many with sugar the “Floridita.” And there, with klutzed up. In particular, any is, not lemon but lime. it would make you sick.” much bravado, Hemingway number of cocktail books have de- It’s an error that has been re- Perhaps even more wrong- would boast of the quantity of al- scribed the Floridita’s special peated for decades. Nearly 10 headed is Mr. Palin’s instruction cohol he could consume in the Hemingway Daiquiri as being years ago, Michael Palin of to add a maraschino cherry. The form of Papa Dobles—the double made with lemon juice. Not only Monty Python fame filmed a tele- “maraschino” in the Floridita rec- frozen Daiquiris made to his par- is this peculiar, given that lime vision special chasing down Hem- ipe is not a processed fruit but, ticular specifications. juice and rum have always been ingway’s adventures, and at one rather, a colorless liqueur made Hemingway biographer A.E. the defining constituents of any point he sat himself down at the from marasca cherries grown on Hotchner’s experience was typi- Daiquiri, but it doesn’t taste very Floridita bar to work his way Italy’s Dalmatian coast. Mara- cal. When the first round of giant good. How did this strange no- through a succession of Papa schino liqueur is subtle and elu- Daiquiris arrives, Hemingway pro- tion become so widespread? Dobles. Unfortunately, he de- sive, and a sly way to give an oth-

               at low tables on the sidewalk. of Vietnam, of Hanoi, which is in chairs—then Pho24 is for you. Typically, the soup is pre- this soup.” Launched in 2003 by a business- pared right there, on the pave- Some people judge a good man from Ho Chi Minh City in ment. (Pho is always eaten at bowl of pho by the quality of the the south, the chain now has stalls or restaurants because it meat, which should be fresh more than 40 outlets through- is too complicated and time-con- and lean. Others have different out Vietnam, as well as a few suming to prepare the broth at criteria. “What is most impor- overseas in countries such as home). tant is that the broth is clear,” South Korea and Indonesia. In The shop owner takes long says Mr. Nguyen, the bank-train- Hanoi, you will find these fast- white strands of rice noodles, ing consultant. “If there are bub- food restaurants all over the called bánh pho in Vietnamese, bles of fat on the surface, I city, for example in Vincom City from a basket, dips them into a won’t eat it.” Towers, Hoan Kiem District cauldron of boiling water heated ( 84-4-222-5203) or 1 Hang by a charcoal stove and then puts The Sources Khay, Hoan Kiem District them into a bowl. Thin cuts of Street pho ( 84-4-936-5259). Pho24 boiled meat are added. Pho bò, The best way to find a good, serves chicken pho and a variety noodle soup with beef, is the traditional pho eatery is to sim- of different pho bo dishes such most common pho dish, but it can ply walk along the streets of Ha- as beef noodle soup with tripe, also be prepared with chicken, noi and find a place frequented or with soft beef tendon. One fish, duck and vegetables. by a great number of locals. Or bowl is about $1.50. Garnishes—such as spring ask any one of the ubiquitous mo- onions and fresh green corian- torbike taxi drivers (called xe om La Verticale der—are sprinkled on top be- in Vietnamese) to take you to his Mr. Corlou has created imagi- fore the cook takes a scoop of favorite pho spot. Some of the native new pho dishes, mixing clear broth from another caul- best-known street eateries are Vietnamese and Western culinary dron and pours it into the bowl. Pho Thin at 13 Lo Duc St., Pho Bat traditions for his restaurant, The broth, which is made by sim- Dan at 49 Bat Dan St. and Pho which is in a beautiful French colo- mering bones, charred onions Tau Bay at 202 A Pho Hue St. nial villa. Try his pho with ocean and spices, takes many hours to Most serve either the traditional and red seaweed, or with duck prepare and is usually cooked beef or chicken pho. A bowl usu- foie gras or Norwegian salmon. the day before. ally costs about $1.50. One bowl costs $9, or for $16 you Then the dining ritual begins. can sample all three noodle Diners squeeze in some lemon, Pho24 dishes. (La Verticale, 19 Ngo Van add chilies, salty fermented-fish If you prefer to eat in a more So St.,  84-4-944-6317) sauce, pepper or herbs, and mix fancy and air-conditioned envi- the soup with chopsticks. The ronment—where you can sit at a Claudia Blume is a Hong broth is finished off with the help proper table with adult-size Kong-based writer. of a porcelain spoon. No one leaves before using the manda-

Newscom (pho); Stockfood (Daiquiri) tory toothpick.

Vietnamese cuisine, he adds. Regardless of its sources, in The Judgment Also, beef generally wasn’t the eyes of the world, including The more basic it is, the better. eaten in Vietnam until after the the people of Vietnam, pho is a Pho is street food—everyday French arrived. quintessentially Vietnamese dish. food—and isn’t served during Most likely, pho has also been parties, weddings or other fes- influenced by the cuisine of Viet- The Setting tive occasions. “It’s a simple, nam’s northern neighbor, China. Thousands of Hanoians start practical soup that you can eat at Some of the soup’s ingredients— their day with a steaming bowl all times of the day,” says Mr. Cor- rice noodles and spices such as of pho, eaten while crouched on lou. “It represents true culinary star anise and ginger—are also dwarf-size plastic stools in art because for me, simplicity is found in Chinese dishes. crowded eateries, often sitting what is best. It is the simplicity

Drinking like Hemingway, in one easy lesson     . 3}jb 5dpƒdt

erwise unsugared drink just a problem is that the flavor gets tention to Constante. “A Papa hint of sweetness. (It bears no re- snowed under by the mounds of Doble was compounded of two lation to the shaved ice. That and a half jiggers of Bacardi White nasty Day-Glo Papa Doble may be just the Label Rum, the juice of two limes syrup in which to- way Papa liked his and half a grapefruit and six drops day’s wretched 60 ml white rum Dobles: They “had of maraschino,” Mr. Hotchner 7 P=_ @L7WW ?RV =]=Vc ;7c cocktail cherries 30 ml fresh lime juice no taste of alco- writes. That’s four times the lime are packed.) 15 ml fresh grapefruit juice hol,” he wrote, juice of the 1937 recipe, and far :L7WWE: VE=;=L 9R_L WC7S=W And then there 8 ml maraschino liqueur “and felt, as you more than the scant teaspoon of is the crucial in- 350 ml to 500 ml shaved ice drank them, the grapefruit juice originally called WYVRP@½ LE@CY 7P; 97L7P:=; gredient Mr. Palin way downhill gla- for. I don’t know which recipe is left out—grape- Pour in a blender and combine cier skiing feels the truest, but I like the results ;EWC_7WC=V W7?= fruit juice, an in- at high speed until the drink is running through when you split the difference, gredient in many foaming. Serve in a large cocktail powder snow.” combining the 60 milliliters of WS7VKLEP@ PRP¨L=7; :VcWY7L glass, champagne saucer, or of the original But it may be that rum specified by the original rec- WZVSVEWEP@Lc 7??RV;79L= drinks concocted goblet. Note: Maraschino liqueur in practice the ipe with a little bit of extra citrus. by Constante, the is not the same as syrup from a drink was made a The texture is also important. Floridita’s fa- cocktail-cherry jar. Fire any liquor little differently Hemingway put it this way: “like store that tells you otherwise. mous barman. from the pub- the sea where the wave falls Even so, fol- lished recipe. away from the bow of a ship low the 1937 Spanish-language Mr. Hotchner drank innumera- when she is doing thirty knots.” ___5VE=;=L5:RN recipe correctly and you might ble Papa Dobles at the Floridita find it surprisingly bland. The with Hemingway, and he paid at- Email me at [email protected]

   
          M}`Šdp

     Annie Bissett Searching for art, culture and history in a quickly changing metropolis . 0p`„cj` .p„qd

n Hong Kong, words such a glimpse of traditional Hong der from a menu in English. with worn-out steps that is to calculate the bill.) At wooden as conservation and heri- Kong life, poke around art galler- Lovers of the macabre may be lined with wooden stalls and desks, practitioners check pa- tage have only just ies and antique shops and ex- intrigued to learn that Luk Yu shops offering everything you tients’ pulses and examine started to seep into peo- plore one of the city’s trendiest Tea House is infamous for an exe- will need for your next costume tongues; consultations in English ple’s consciousness. In entertainment districts. Be- cution-style murder that took party. Choose from colorful wigs are available and cost HK$40 ;fact, in recent decades, the city ware: You’ll have to walk up place here in 2002. After finish- and feather boas, and fancy cos- (about $5). has changed beyond recogni- some steep roads, so leave your ing his breakfast, a mainland Chi- tumes for pirates, princesses and Watch how mysterious ingre- tion, and many traces of its past high heels at home. nese hit man calmly paid his bill, even zebras, as well as an array dients are chopped and weighed have disappeared forever. then walked over to the nearby ta- of scary masks. on old-fashioned scales before Today, Hong Kong is a curious 12:30 P.M. LUK YU TEA HOUSE ble of a local businessman, prop- At the corner of Stanley and they are packed into paper par- mix of ultramodern glass-and- To get a feel for old Hong erty tycoon Harry Lam, and Cochrane Streets, stop for a cels. Some of the more exotic chrome skyscrapers, run-down Kong, start your walk with a dim killed him with a single gunshot healthy cup of “smart flower” or items used are on display in the buildings from the 1950s and sum lunch at the city’s most fa- to the head. (The hitman, Yang “bitter 24 varieties” herbal tea, shop windows, including dried ’60s and a small residue of ele- mous traditional tea house. (24 Wen, was later caught and sen- served from giant copper urns seahorses, dried geckos (small gant colonial structures. But Stanley St.,  852-2523-5464). tenced to death by a court in at one of Hong Kong’s oldest and lizards) and deer tails. what the city lacks in historic Opened in 1933, Luk Yu Tea neighboring Shenzhen.) most beautiful shops for tradi- buildings and architectural House captures the ambience of tional Chinese medicine, the 2 P.M. CENTRAL STREET MARKET beauty, it makes up for with atmo- that era with its ceiling fans, 1:30 P.M. POTTINGER STREET Good Spring Herbal Pharmacy Walk up Cochrane Street and sphere and a vibrant street life. stained-glass wall decorations AND GOOD SPRING HERBAL (8 Cochrane St., turn right onto Wellington Only a few meters away from and quaint wooden dining PHARMACY  852-2544-3518). Street. Continue along Welling- hectic Queens Road in Central, booths for two. Walk along Stanley Street to- Time seems to have stood still ton until you reach Graham for example, lies one of Hong If you arrive before 11 a.m., ward Cochrane Street. On the at the medicine shop, which Street. Then turn left and make Kong’s most diverse and fasci- dim sum delicacies are served way, you will pass Pottinger opened almost a century ago. your way up the hill. Suddenly, nating areas. There, you can get by trolley; after that you can or- Street, a picturesque steep lane (Employees even use an abacus you will find yourself in the mid-


               dle of one of Hong Kong’s oldest worked on British opium and niture left over from its previ- a relaxing foot massage at and most colorful wet markets. tea clippers in the 19th century, ous incarnation as a furniture Healthy Foot (16 Elgin St., The Central Street Market, and they frequented this area shop. Try its famous strawberry  852-2530-0096). A 45-minute which stretches to nearby Peel back then. Oddly enough, how- daiquiris. There is no sign out- foot massage, followed by a Street and Gage Street, has been ever, it’s better known as Cat around for more than 160 years. Street. The pedestrian-only About 130 hawkers sell vegeta- lane is filled with curio shops bles and fruits, fresh meat and and stalls selling items such as After having breakfast at the Luk Yu Tea House live fish, dried mushrooms, cheap jewelry, statues of Chair- freshly made noodles and so- man Mao and copies of his Little in 2002, a hit man calmly paid his bill, walked called hundred-year-old eggs. Red Book. Locals and expatriates alike Walk to the end of the lane over to the table of a wealthy local businessman come here to shop or have a chat and rejoin Hollywood Road. or a cheap meal at one of the sim- Turn left. and killed him with a single gunshot to the head. ple eateries on Gage Street. The historic market is under 4 P.M. MAN MO TEMPLE threat. Hong Kong’s town plan- Head toward Ladder Street. side—keep an eye out for the 15-minute neck and shoulder ners want to demolish the area to On the corner is one of Hong “Everyday Fun Dry Cleaning” massage, costs HK$188 (about make room for yet more high- Kong’s oldest and most impor- shop next door (38 Staunton St., $24). Or try Joy Ocean (40 Caine rise buildings. The move has tant temples.  852-2857-2586). Rd.,  852-2810-0186). A sparked outrage among many res- Wreathed in fumes from san- Then wander along Staunton 45-minute foot massage costs idents, who feel that the demoli- dalwood incense coils that are Street or hop on the escalator HK$138 (about $18). tion would destroy the area’s suspended from the roof, beauti- up to Elgin Street to find a res- sense of community. ful Man Mo temple reveres twin taurant to your liking. Shelley Claudia Blume is a Hong deities. Man is the god of learn- and Peel Street are also a gour- Kong-based writer. 2:30 P.M. HOLLYWOOD ing and literature, Man Cheong, met’s paradise. There is some- ROAD while Mo refers to a Cantonese thing for every taste in SoHo— Continue on Graham alternative name for Guan Yu, Chinese, Italian, Indian or Mid- Next Month’s Street until you reach Hol- the god of war. dle Eastern—you name it. City Walk: lywood Road with its If you want to know what the After dinner, to ease your ach- Hanoi plethora of antique future has in store for you, con- ing feet, finish the evening with shops. Turn right. sult one of the temple’s fortune After the Commu- tellers. Master Ng does consulta- nist takeover in tions in English. The sessions China and espe- last about half an hour and cost cially during the Cul- HK$500 (about $65). tural Revolution, Afterward, take a break near T HE BEST PLACE Hollywood Road be- the temple at the Pressroom res- came a focal point in taurant (108 Hollywood Rd., the trade of statues,  852-2525-3444), which offers TO SPEND TIME IS ceramics and other afternoon tea from 3 p.m. to 6 artifacts from the p.m. on weekends. You can also mainland. Families have coffee and cake—or a WHERE IT STANDS STILL. fleeing turmoil in cheese platter with wine—at China sold their pos- the Pressroom’s deli next door, sessions in shops which doubles as a cozy French- along this street to fi- style bistro. nance their new lives in Hong Kong. 5:30 P.M. CENTRAL POLICE These days, mer- STATION AND VICTORIA PRISON chandise on offer Head toward Central on Hol- ranges from expen- lywood Road until you reach sive collectibles to the 19th-century, British-look- affordable repro- ing former central police sta- ductions. Many tion, one of the few physical re- shops specialize in minders of Hong Kong’s colo- antique furniture, nial past. while others sell expensive The adjoining Victoria Prison fine china, old scrolls and rare on Old Bailey Street with its books. high granite walls was Hong Walk along the Western sec- Kong’s first jail. Built in 1841, tion of Hollywood Road until when Hong Kong became a Brit- you reach tiny Shin Hing Street ish colony, the grim-looking on your right. prison held inmates until the This charming lane, with pot- end of 2005. There are various ted plants placed decoratively plans to conserve and revitalize on its narrow steps, stretches the complex by turning it into downhill from Hollywood Road an arts hub. toward Gough Street. Explore some of the art galler- It is easily overlooked— ies at this end of Hollywood Road, you’ve found it when you see the many of which specialize in well- Ancient Chinese Art gallery at known—and highly prized—con- the corner—but offers a few art temporary Chinese artists. galleries, restaurants and shops that are worth exploring. 7 P.M. SOHO There’s Amelia Johnson Con- Like New York and London, temporary Art (6-10 Shin Hing Hong Kong also has its SoHo dis- St.,  852-2548-2286), a ceram- trict, which here means “South ics gallery called Earth Home of Hollywood Road.” (G/F Po Lung Building, in rear It is a trendy neighborhood laneway between Shin Hing and with international restaurants Mee Lun Streets, and bars, hip boutiques and art  852-2547-0102), Qing Bar and galleries, but you can still find old Restaurant (Asian food, 3 Mee neighborhood shops selling such Lun St.,  852-2815-6739) or items as Chinese paper lanterns. Lot 10 (Mediterranean food, 34 You no longer need to walk up- When life feels perfect. Gough St.,  852-2813-6812). hill—just step on the Central Es- calator along Shelley Street. This 3 P.M. UPPER LASCAR ROW OR 800-meter escalator—the CAT STREET world’s longest—runs from Cen- Summer with Four Seasons Packages. With our special summer packages, For more affordable souve- tral Market in Des Voeux Road up nirs, walk down Ladder Street, to the city’s Mid-Levels residen- there’s no better time to vacation with us. For more information contact your travel which is further down Holly- tial area and is the central spine wood Road, and immediately from which SoHo radiates. consultant, visit www.fourseasons.com/summer08 or call (65) 6232-5926. From within turn left onto Upper Lascar Get off at Staunton Street Hong Kong call (800) 96-8385. Row. and have predinner drinks at Lascars were sailors of In- Feather Boa, a quirky, plush dian and Arab origin who lounge with an odd array of fur- ©2008 Four Seasons Hotels Ltd.

   
       
  

    

ith much of Asia racing to build ever

Wbigger and more sprawling cities,

historical sites and traditional arts and cultures are

rapidly disappearing. Sometimes all

that is left are memories and what

was captured through a

photographer’s lens.

In our occasional series, Vanishing

Asia, Weekend Journal has been

exploring efforts to preserve the

region’s past. In this special issue,

we highlight efforts by

professional and amateur photographers to

record what is being lost—perhaps forever.

Photography by Lim Huck Chin and Fernando Jorge; Getty Images (camera)


               qdqv}Mhd mddwd} L`Šjtf C`p`bb`I ƒhd dp„jŠd fv`p ve ƒ‹v `}bhjƒdbƒ

. 0}j H}ƒ` what’s going on behind the façade. “If they allow this to continue, what is the future of tour- ism here?” asks Mr. Lim, exasperated. He notes Malacca has onservation architect Lim Huck Chin stands in applied to Unesco for World Heritage status—a decision is front of a 300-year-old “shophouse” in Mal- expected as early as next month—but asks, “What’s the acca Town’s historic core and points out the point…when you allow this to go on?” telltale signs that this building, on a street Malacca, capital of the state of Malacca in west peninsular zoned as a heritage conservation area, has Malaysia, is one of Asia’s oldest and most-storied port cities, been0 turned into an aviary where wild swiftlets’ nests are and its old town, part of the core heritage zone, is both a mecca cultivated to make birds’ nest soup, a Chinese delicacy. for tourists and a place where people still live and work. Centu- The front door of 133 Heeren St. has been sealed and the win- ries-old shophouses, built by Dutch and Chinese settlers, are dows boarded shut. Only the front portion is still standing; be- still family homes to Chinese clans who settled here hundreds hind the crumbling façade, a squat concrete structure looms, of years ago. Designed to house a business on the ground floor with fist-size holes that allow swiftlets to fly in and out. A re- and a residence upstairs—although many in Malacca were cording of steady bird chirps wafts out, attracting new swift- purely residential—these long homes feature lofty ceilings lets. (Inside, it’s likely that a steady mist is being sprayed to keep and two or three open interior air wells that let sunlight and the humidity high, simulating a swiftlet’s natural nesting site.) rain fall on indoor gardens. Historically, they were decorated A closed-circuit television camera monitors the front of the di- with gilded carved wooden screens and ornate frescos. lapidated façade, a sign to Mr. Lim that someone wants to keep Across the river is more history: The ruins of St. Paul’s prying eyes from what’s happening behind the sealed door. Church and Porta de Santiago, the gate to a fort built by the That’s because the aviary is illegal: Under Malacca’s con- Portuguese, who ruled Malacca from 1511 to 1641, stand next to servation laws, any renovations in the city’s core heritage the Stadthuys and Christ Church, built by the Dutch, who de- zone require government approval, and must follow strict feated the Portuguese and ruled until 1795. (The British, who guidelines aimed at preserving these buildings. But the doz- took over in that year, eventually destroyed most of the fort.)

Airwells, such as this one at 111 ens of “birdhouses” like 133 Heeren are an open secret. The But the city’s heritage is under pressure. Defying the con- Heeren St., provide light and recorded chirps and the flitting swiftlets tell any passerby servation laws, private owners and developers make unau- ventilation to deep interiors.

Left to right, the broadest home on Heeren Street is today used to produce birds’ nests for soup; St. Peter’s Church was built in 1710, though the interior reflects a 1916 renovation; a carved wooden vent above a door at Christ Church, which dates to 1753.

   
           

    

Far left, wall paintings and porcelain figures decorate the Cheng Hoon Teng, Malaysia’s oldest Chinese temple; left, the facade of an abandoned shophouse built in the early 20th century

thorized alterations, sometimes knocking buildings down entirely, to cash in on mass tourism or alterna- tive industries like lucrative bird-nest production. Tra- ditional tradesmen—like goldsmiths and blacksmiths— are moving out after generations of passing building and craft from father to son, to be replaced by trinket shops, pubs and karaoke bars. Mourning the losses, Mr. Lim, who is from Penang, and Fernando Jorge, a Portuguese conservation ar- chitect, spent six years researching and photograph- ing hundreds of old buildings. In 2006, they pub- lished their findings as a book, “Malacca: Voices From the Street.” Mr. Lim, 44 years old, fell in love with old Malacca when he was hired in 1997 to help restore the Cheng Hoon Teng temple, Malaysia’s oldest Chinese temple. Mr. Jorge, 37, was drawn to Malacca’s historical con- nection to Portugal. For their book they interviewed more than 200 residents, as well as descendants of former residents, to unravel the histories of dozens of buildings. They visited archives in Lisbon, London, the Hague, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, poring over colonial-era maps and documents. The book failed to slow the destruction. Some of the buildings they photographed are gone or irrevoca- bly changed. A theater built in 1887 on Java Lane by Tan Hoon Guan, one of the leading Chinese business- men of the day, was torn down in 2001. The property has been vacant since. “It’s depressing,” says Mr. Jorge. “Each time we go to Malacca we feel like we are visiting a friend in prison who’s done nothing wrong and is being pun- ished for no reason.” During their research, Messrs. Lim and Jorge found treasures that had literally been discarded with the trash. “We picked up Dutch window brack- ets thrown into drains by contractors,” says Mr. Jorge. “We found painted wood frescos, relief stucco work, granite carvings.” The two examined one house that they believe be- longed in the 17th century to the top Chinese general China-born 50-year veterans in Malacca. They found carved, gilded wooden of Tay Miang Guan Liquor Shop plaques that commemorated a wedding in the house in 2002: the late Tay Hung Leng, left, son of the at that time—and that some long-ago owner had used founder, and senior staff member Tay Kim Wha to repair the kitchen ceiling. A university expert in China, to whom Messrs. Lim and Jorge had sent photo- graphs and detailed scale drawings, dated the build-


               The Leong San Thong,a benevolent association for one Chinese clan, built a ceremonial hall that’s still used by members 80 years later.

ing to the early Qing dynasty, in the late 17th century. government property,” he said in an interview shortly The owner shrugged off these findings, unsure of before his term ended in February. “It’s not fair to col- how they could benefit him or his family, and went lect taxes, then give it to private individuals.” ahead with plans to sell. Messrs. Lim and Jorge sent Still, the government does manage to fund large the government a dossier, complete with colonial- projects that seem at odds with heritage conserva- era documents and maps and the university expert’s tion. In 2003, the municipality repainted shophouses, opinion, and urged that the house be saved. They got most privately owned, to try to brighten them up. no response. Each street got a color—one all in yellow, another in The house was sold and gutted; painted bright yel- blue, another in red— with 300-year-old and 50-year- low, it now houses a small restaurant. old buildings both getting the same shade simply be- Another house, the site of a goldsmith business cause they stood side by side. Frescoes, ornate carv- from the late 19th century to 2000, was stripped of its ings and art nouveau tiles that graced doorways and wall mirrors, painted glass panels and polished wood facades were painted over. Some 1930s buildings had cabinets to accommodate a fast-food outlet. been finished with a nubby material called Shanghai There are notable exceptions (see the trip plan- aware of the history around them. For some, the long- plaster; the paint job destroyed the surface. Owners ner). Some property owners have restored their heri- time family home is just a crumbling old building. have since repainted some buildings, but on many, or- tage buildings to their former glory, and turned “When we talked to people, we found that their un- nate detailing remains obscured. them into restaurants, galleries and small hotels. derstanding and sense of the value of their property In 2004, officials proposed a $6.4 million, But between 2001 and 2004 alone, Badan Warisan, just wasn’t there,” says Mr. Lim. “They would be liv- 110-meter-high tower at the base of St. Paul’s Hill. An- the Heritage of Malaysia Trust, determined at that ing in a structure that’s hundreds of years old, and swering objections that it wasn’t in keeping with the time that there were 68 complete and partial demoli- just can’t see why a carving or a column is precious. look and feel of the historic area, the state of Malac- tions in Malacca’s core heritage zone—and more Their view was, ‘Just strip it and paint over it.’” ca’s Chief Minister Mohamed Ali Rustam told the lo- than 60 traditional tradespeople, including jewelers Mr. Lim believes the government should offer in- cal press that he “didn’t see how the tower would and herbal-medicine practitioners, moved out. centives and funds to encourage renovation and en- spoil the charm or affect heritage sites close to it… “From casual observation, we’ve noted that both courage tradesmen to stay. “Tourists want to see au- The 110-meter tower can also be painted to match the demolitions and the loss of traditional trades have thenticity,” he argues. “They’ll buy traditional colors of the other buildings near it.” continued,” says Mr. Lim. crafts; they’ll buy gold. They don’t just want to see After workers preparing the site in 2006 dug up Part of the problem is money: Residents can’t af- stalls selling trinkets.” more ruins of the area’s Portuguese fort, though, ford to maintain or renovate old buildings and will Zaini Nor, who as mayor from 2003 until early this the tower was relocated. Malacca decided instead take offers from buyers keen to cash in on tourism. year oversaw much of what’s happened in Malacca, to build a replica of the fort there, and workers are And many modern-day Malaccans are simply un- says it can’t be done. “That is private property, not now cementing new bricks imported from Burma

Left, these rear sections of buildings on the road called Riverside, some dating to the early 1800s and all standing on the foundations of the Portuguese fort, were among those demolished in 2003 for a government tourism project; right, Chan Kin Wah’s timepiece-repair shop on Jonker Street was founded by his father in the ’20s.   

    

over the historical find. In another attempt to draw tourists, Malacca is building a large wooden water wheel attraction on the river. Malaccans didn’t historically use water wheels, but after seeing one on a recent trip to Jordan, the chief minister decided it would make a good addition back home. “The whole issue of authenticity just doesn’t seem to matter in Malacca,” says Mr. Lim. “It’s all about history for entertainment.” The government seems similarly cavalier about the bird- houses, as Malaccan K.C. Lee and her husband could attest. In December 2002, they bought a derelict shophouse on Heeren Street, which they lovingly renovated, furnishing it with an- tiques and old artwork. So when their next-door neighbors at No. 74 demolished the back of their building last year to put a birdhouse behind the run-down façade, the couple went to the conservation department to complain. But nothing was done. When the neighbors tore out a wooden beam from the com- mon wall between the houses, it punched a hole through the Lees’ side. The couple plastered the hole over. Already termites have moved in, and the couple worries about water seepage and the possibility of disease from the bird waste piling up be- hind the wall. Then there is that mechanical chirping all day. (The sound is switched off for the night, when the birds sleep.) Mr. Lim reckons that more than 14 houses on the short The steps from Bridge Street to street have fallen prey to suppliers of birds’ nest soup. Many Tan Hoon Guan Bridge, named in Malacca believe that some government agents take bribes for the merchant who helped bankroll it in 1887. to let this happen, but government leaders deny the charge, and say they’re doing what they can to stop the trade. “It’s not allowed, but we have to give them time to move out,” Mayor Zaini said in February. But according to Heeren Street res- idents, some of the birdhouses have been there for three years Trip planner or more. Under the new mayor, Yusof Jantan, the pace of en-
  forcement hasn’t picked up much steam. Residents say swiftlet Visitors to Malacca can easily cover the central

historical districts on foot. The relatively small old operators continue in the old city’s heritage core. “We are in the quarter can be covered in half a day, and the process of relocating bird-rearing activities in the conservation historic Dutch and Portuguese buildings, churches 


   and forts are a short walk across the river. area on a case-by-case basis,” Mr. Yusof said in a statement. Highlights of the old quarter include the Cheng So while the government pursues the heritage listing from Hoon Teng (25 Jalan Tokong), Malaysia’s oldest the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organi- Chinese temple; the Baba and Nonya Peranakan   Museum (48/50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock), a good    zation, and says it is doing its best to preserve the old city, some example of an ornate Peranakan—which pertains to   residents say not enough has been done. “A big piece of history the culture of locally born people of Chinese or mixed Chinese and Malay descent—heritage is already lost, and we’re losing more,” says Chan Kin Wah, shophouse; and an 18th-century Dutch shophouse (8 Where to eat whose family has run a timepiece-repair business on Jonker Heeren St.) that has been redone as a model Nancy’s Kitchen (7 Jalan Hang Lekir) offers the city’s conservation project by Badan Warisan Malaysia, the most-traditional Peranakan food, residents say. Try Street in the old quarter for two generations. “We can’t do any- country’s heritage society. the beef rendang and ayam buah keluak, a traditional thing much. People voice their opinions, and nobody listens.” chicken dish served in a mildly spicy sauce. Where to stay Famosa Chicken Rice Ball (28-30 Jalan Hang City and state leaders continue to approve development The five-star Majestic Malacca is a wonderfully Kasturi, off Jonker St.) specializes in what the name projects that leave heritage buffs aghast—such as a modern restored 1920s-era Straits Chinese art deco mansion, suggests: balls of flavored rice, a local specialty, glass-and-chrome shopping mall at the base of St. Paul’s Hill. a short cab ride to the old quarter. Rates range from served with chicken. $250 a night for a deluxe room to $650 for a suite. For those who love hawker food, locals The mall, which opened early in 2007, bisects the core heri- 1881 Jalan Bunga Raya recommend the satay—barbecued meat on skewers tage zone, sitting between the Dutch and Portuguese ruins  60-6-289-8000 with peanut sauce—at Lung Hun Refreshment on Web: www.majesticmalacca.com the corner of Lorong Hang Jebat and Jalan and the river that fronts the old town. When contractors be- Kampung Kuli. gan work on the mall in 2003, more ancient ruins from the The quaint Heeren House is a restored Peranakan shophouse in the old quarter. A twin room with a Tours Portuguese fort were unearthed. That didn’t stop the mall, Malacca River view goes for $46 a night. Malacca is a tourist town, and literally dozens of which sits flush up against these ruins, giving McDonald’s pa- 1 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock tour operators can be booked through the Melaka  60-6-281-4241 Tourist Information Centre ( 60-6-763-5388). trons a view of partially unearthed pieces of the fort wall. Web: www.melaka.net/heerenhouse Badan Warisan’s 8 Heeren St. Heritage and On a recent visit to Malacca, Mr. Jorge took photos of the Interpretive Centre offers a booklet for a self-guided The Snail House is a bed-and-breakfast in an tour of old-quarter trades and crafts ($2.50). Staff wall. He shook his head at the sight of plants and a fountain, old-quarter heritage shophouse that’s been lovingly at 8 Heeren St. can also provide guided architectural added as decorative features; both will speed erosion. Then restored by Serge Jardin and his wife, K.C., who is tours of the quarter, if arranged in advance. he walked over to the second newly discovered part of the from Malacca. Guests get a taste of life in a traditional ( 60-6-281-1507; [email protected]). shophouse that is still a real home. Rates range from The center is closed Sundays and Mondays. fort, and snapped a photo of workers laying new bricks on top $117 a night for two people to $221 for six. The Majestic Malacca offers guests free guided of it. “When you find a ruin,” he said, “you just keep the ruin.” 76 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock historical walking tours. The proprietors of Snail  60-6-286-8598 House offer a range of mostly half-day tours, likewise Email: [email protected] free for guests. Others can join for about $60. Cris Prystay is a Singapore-based writer.

         

  

    

VIDURA JANG BAHADUR Manu Anand Mhd

Teresa Tan, right, and her sister-in-law, Mrs. Li Ying Liang, at Ms. Tan’s beauty parlor in Chennai. Following the 1962 Sino-Indian conflict, New Delhi many Chinese women became hairdressers to he panoramic lens takes them all in: from a 93-year-old woman who fled to India make extra money for their on foot after World War II from what was then known as Burma, to a 23-year-old families. Today, they’ve carved a niche for man in Bangalore who defied his parents to become a dancer in the refined south themselves in this field. It is common for Chinese families Indian tradition of Bharatanatyam. United by a thread of history, these Indian- across India to run a Chinese have persevered through turbulent times and carved out diverse lives in restaurant or a dental clinic and a hair salon in tandem. Mcities and towns across India. Their stories of assimilation, survival and loss have engrossed Vidura Jang Bahadur, a soft- spoken 32-year-old photographer who lives in New Delhi. During the past three years, he has encountered dentists, noodle makers, tannery owners, teachers, hairstylists, lawyers, chefs, com- puter programmers and others who trace their heritage back to the late 18th century. That is when a Chinese sailor named Yang Dazhao is believed to have landed in Calcutta, now known as Kolkata, and then recruited his countrymen to come work as laborers, according to Ellen Oxfeld, an American scholar who studies overseas Chinese. Today, however, their numbers are dwindling. As elders perish, some of the younger Indian- Chinese are joining relatives who have migrated abroad, mostly to Canada and the U.S. Mean- while, both mainstream schooling and intermarriage have played a role in marginalizing Chi- nese cultural traditions. Modern development projects are displacing heritage buildings along with the traditional tanneries that once provided a steady livelihood. Such factors have fueled Mr. Bahadur’s quest to document the Indian-Chinese before their fragile worlds completely fade from view. TEXT BY Toting a Chinese-made backpack on trains, buses, motorcycles and rickshaws, Mr. Bahadur Margot Cohen has covered plenty of ground and taken thousands of pictures. He calls the project “Home,” em- phasizing that the Indian-Chinese shouldn’t be viewed as outsiders. His goal is to move beyond the typical communal images of dragon dances and other festivities to reflect individual percep- PHOTOGRAPHY BY Vidura Jang Bahadur tions of identity, especially in living spaces and work environments.

               ƒv}ƒdppd} -t `}ƒjƒ jt d`}bh ve l8vqd

The Kim brothers, who live and work in their New Delhi shop, are among the few Hakka families that still make custom, handcrafted shoes. When the Hakka-Chinese first arrived in India in the early 1900s, many took up shoemaking because they saw an opportunity—it was a craft the local Hindu community looked down on.

The Ma family has lived in Chennai for more than two generations. Like many Chinese from Hubei, they were known for their expertise in setting teeth. Originally itinerant dentists who traveled from town to town, they would set up shop for a few weeks before moving on. The family settled down during the 1960s, when India established travel restrictions on Chinese residents.

Ko Ko, at nearly 93 years old, in her house in Chennai. She and her late husband, who was a dentist, walked from what was then Burma to India in the early 1940s in search of a better life. They moved from one place to another before finally settling in this seaport city in southern India.

   
       
 jGGTG\D R]hb\=W 
    

“For me, ordinary life is far more interesting than something dramatic, like an event,” says Mr. Bahadur. Like many Indians, Mr. Bahadur grew up knowing next to nothing about the Hakka, Cantonese The Yee Hing Club is and Hubeinese communities scattered in India. He had never visited Kolkata, site of a famed one of the few Chinese clubs remaining in Chinatown and home to about 3,500 out of the estimated 11,000 Indian-Chinese who remain in Kolkata. Set up along this country of more than a billion people. In fact, it wasn’t until Mr. Bahadur decided to blithely the lines of ethnicity, community and follow a friend to China in 2001 that he met an ethnic-Chinese from Kolkata and learned of In- surname, the clubs dia’s Chinese diaspora. He first taught English in Qingdao, then went to Beijing to study Chinese. offer Chinese a place to spend time with After returning to India in 2005, Mr. Bahadur says he initially felt a sense of dislocation. He each other, often for a drink, or to eat relished the chance to chat in Chinese and show Indian-Chinese people photos of China on his together, or to gamble. laptop computer. Those images broke the ice and led him to pursue his project seriously in early

2006. He figures it is now about two-thirds complete and he aims to bring it to an end by mid-2009 with a book launch and exhibition. Stephen Shaver (Zhang); Zhang Wei (3) In his travels, Mr. Bahadur learned that migration from China accelerated in the 1930s and ’40s because of political upheavals. Fanning out from Calcutta, families in search of stable incomes settled in Bangalore, Mumbai, New Delhi, and smaller outposts in the northeast. Dentists were a particularly itinerant lot, moving frequently to find new sets of molars in need of attention. The 1962 Sino-Indian war that grew out of border disputes between China and India im- posed fear on the communities. More than 2,000 Indian-Chinese were interned in a camp in Rajasthan state. Others were jailed or abruptly fired from factory jobs, and 2,500 were repatri- ated to China, according Ms. Oxfeld, author of the India chapter of “The Encyclopedia of the Chinese Overseas.” Lawrence Liang,an “That left such a deep scar on the elders. They didn’t want to talk about it to the young genera- ethnic-Chinese lawyer in Bangalore, believes tion,” explains Jennifer Liang, a Kolkata-born Indian of Cantonese descent who now runs a volun- that to his generation, tary organization for rural development in Assam state. the “concept of a Chinese ‘homeland’ is In the face of such silence, Ms. Liang says that Mr. Bahadur’s project could help reclaim the an imaginary one, history of these injustices while highlighting the contributions Indian-Chinese have made to India. a construct of a nation based on popular culture.” Margot Cohen is a Bangalore-based writer.


               Amateur photographer Zhang Wei fights to save Beijing’s hutongs with a camera Beijing ories of growing up,” says Mr. ven as this capital city Zhang, who photographs Beijing and its citizens hurtle hutongs by day and loads the im- toward modernization, ages onto his Web site at night. there are many who Not so long ago, hutongs were wish some things the main arteries of life in Beijing. 3would stay like they were. Zhang They spread out from the city cen- Wei is one of them. ter—the Forbidden City—and On any given day, 31-year-old served as community meeting Mr. Zhang can be found wandering places, markets, playgrounds and Zhang Wei, top, and his photos of hutongs today. From left to right: A crane prepares to demolish a courtyard home in downtown through a Beijing hutong, one of roads for all who lived there. This Beijing; a hutong in the midst of being demolished in January 2006; an as-yet untouched gate along Wenchang Hutong those centuries-old narrow lanes hutong way of life—which is that once filled the city center. present in other Chinese cities, in- Armed with a camera, the amateur cluding nearby Tianjin, but is test,” says Mr. Zhang, whose Web past five years, Mr. Zhang has run will be justified by history,” he photographer walks the lanes, unique to Beijing in its concentra- page currently hosts more than through 300,000 yuan (about says. “No matter if it’s hutongs, snapping the clay-tiled roofs and tion—is quickly disappearing. Old 120,000 photos of about 700 hu- $44,000) in savings. Nowadays, courtyard homes, or even the an- the wooden doorways of the court- courtyard homes, or si he yuan, tongs in varying conditions—refur- he has to ask his parents, both of cient walls…I just think we should yard homes that line the alley- and hutongs are being torn down bished, crumbling and demolished. whom are retired, for pocket get them protected for our chil- ways. Sometimes, he finds only to make way for shiny office tow- The site draws nearly 20,000 view- money (about 25 yuan a day). dren, and our children’s children.” rubble where once families had a ers, modern apartment blocks, ers a day, says Mr. Zhang, and has “I am sure what I am doing now —Sue Feng home. Other times, he catches the shopping malls and new roads. Ac- 16,000 registered members. destruction on film as it happens. cording to a nonprofit hutong- Chen Li, a 37-year-old manager =—t†›—r‚} He’s seen it before: His family’s preservation group, the Beijing at a local branch of international courtyard home—where the Cultural Heritage Protection Cen- home products retailer Ikea, is a C†›¥ Cœ——}y¥ hd³ = d‘¥ D^H¤D¼¯ |†‚†›rŒ •„‘›‘ €—rŽ} Zhangs lived for 80 years—was ter, Beijing had more than 3,000 weekend regular. “In the old- d„r‚„r† ¯¯ ¥œr ³226 beijing.org, there are many kinds razed by a bulldozer to make way hutongs in the 1950s. The group es- d†‚r•‘—} d³2¨¨ ³2¬6 for a five-story office building and timates that only 1,000 remain. of people coming together with road in June 2000. Since then, Mr. “Some of the hutongs have different purposes,” he says. \}Ÿ m‘—Š ³2· Zhang has devoted himself to pre- gone forever,” says Mr. Zhang. “Some are more interested in ar- Zr†Œr ¼¨¯ •}™‘™ ³2¼ serving Beijing’s hutongs the best “That’s why I want to record them chitecture, some are lovers of M‘‚ T‘‚ MT³2¨¯ ³2¼ way he knows how, with a camera in the pictures.” Beijing culture, some are just fans f‘Š¥‘ J2¨¯¯ ³2¬ and his Chinese-language Web Little did he know that many of photography.” site, www.oldbeijing.org. He even others would be drawn to his Mr. Zhang’s Web site hasn’t yet W‘|‘ F¨¨ ³2¨6 quit his job at a public relations cause. On weekends, 20 to 30 peo- saved any hutongs from destruc- @—œ™™}Œ™ B2¬¨ ³  d‘¥ agency in late 2002 to focus full- ple—foreign and local, students tion, but the group has raised ^r—†™ B2¬¨ ³  time on the Web site. and professionals—join Mr. Zhang awareness. “What we are trying H—rŠ€œ—› B2·¯ ³ ¬ ^—†y}™ †yŒœ|†‚ ›r¡}™ r™ •—‘†|}| “I just wanted to use this Web in the hutongs, snapping photos to do is to catch people’s hearts,” t¥ y}›—rŒŒ¥ Œ‘yr›}| —}›r†Œ}—™ † }ry„ y†›¥ r}—r‚}| r| b‘Ž} B2¼6 page to mourn for my old home, from different angles. Taking pic- says Mr. Zhang. ³ ¼· y‘}—›}| ›‘ ›„} }r—}™› hd |‘ŒŒr— where I left all my childhood mem- tures in groups “is a kind of pro- The effort has cost him. In the \‘›}$ d}}¤†y„ €—rŽ} Ÿ†›„ ·6Z@ ‘€ †›}—rŒ ™›‘—r‚} }‘œ‚„ €‘— rt‘œ› ·¯¯ •†y›œ—}™

   
         
  
 

  
    
  
  


     
  

 
 


1 5175
6 955 ?
09 3
? 91 <0
95 3: 104 955 
3
 
/ .. 
5:5 :0 154 :9 955 
6
 41 :0 7

), 1 = 
5=&'9
5 15 107<
< 535: 5 1 : :>575 314  %$* 11 1 9
5>) 104 91 5 >
5 166 ?
5 6
354
0 95 
14 1:
=, 6
?   
:1>) 9:39 7: 5 ?50 2:05 :0 :1 >5 5>  12

05 166 ?5? %:?:>1>) 95 
 2104 1 95? 4:3
0
0 

? 15) ' : 5 104:07 1:4>) 25 6
 5 5 

955 

? 3
 104 15
665 9:79 ?54:31:
0) ?54:31> 5 :35 104 :9 9:01 104 04:1 1:3 3
?154 :9
05 6
 5139 

? 504) 9104
0 5 :35) 9:>5 95 1335 
1 ?54:31> 9
>:05= >1 9

= 1 1 >  9
5>=  5 :354 61?:>
:5054 
5:5 1>
0 
<5 151 5 :354 11 :1/ >175
51

6 11?50 95 7
1> : 
?1<5 315 6
 
5 104 39:>450= ?50 1:? 

:45 95 1?5 5 :354 11?50) %:071
5 75 655> 1 9
?5= '9: : 955 95 
71? 310 >5 5>
6 5 :35 1 95: 9
5> 2154 3
 
) 91 5 50 &+5 
:45 1 5>5 :9 1 75 351: 5= 3
?5:
= "05 : :0 6:05) 
5:5 3954>54 

50 2 9
?5 1 1 6
? 9
?5 955 &0 95 #9:>::05)
 %
?5 955 ?10
6 95 
5:5 51 504 :0 5 51> 3::5) :03>4 95 310 50;
 9
?5>5 3
? %  % $ !  5 
 
71? 95>
 91 5 6:15 613:>::5) 104 95 :07 107<
<) 95001: (95 04:10 6
) : 13 104 3
0 50:5035 5:450 01 :715 :0 95: 05
95 : :0 2:055>154 5  3: 6
?5> <0
0 1 141
0 

6 91 :07 95 613:>::5 50 :
0?50 104 5>5 :0 :3<>), :35) 955 :45
3
065503:07 104 %:071
5= 91 95/>> 6:04 :0 1 7

41>: 1 3
/ = 
= &+5
710 613:>::5) 
5 :45 :5>5 15 
:1>:) 1>
2154 9
5>), 1 5>:01 
) :35 5 :5 57>1 13: ::5 39 1 3: 2
142104 0505) >1 :9> :0 %:071
5) 91 
;53 045 :450) 3

15 3
??0:31:
0) 
) >107175 3
5) 5 3 5:54 ?55:07 

?) 104 45 5>
?50 :0 95 9:055 2104 104 ?1<5:07) 6
 95 :
0

6 
0) 1:5) 104
95 5 :35 15 10414 1 3::5
6 5:;:07) 9
07:07) 3
 
=
<9

0 >
31> 3>5=, ?
 
5:5 1>:10) 1079
) %910791:) 0 1 1:5
6 351: 5 1)  95 61?:>
:5054 
 15 
:1>: 91 1<50 %9
) + : 104 -:10= 04 5 :354 11?50
51

< 5:5) ?10
6 95 5 :35 15 95 3
035
05 5 695) "1<

4 :1 #13:6:3) 10
95 
?1<5 95: 75 655> ?
5 45:7054 6
 
5 104 39:> :9 '95 $551 :0 %:071
5) %:071
52154 5 :354 11 3
?6
12>5= %
?5
665 3: 
) 450= 
 5 1?>5) 15 1 ?55:07 151 91 3
?2:05 ?50 3
?10) 91
5054 5 50 4:3
0 314 1 >
31> 51 
:1>: 91 0 5:>54 95 15 1 6>> 1075
6 2:05 5 :35 
5:5 :0 95 1 5:79 ?
09 10 104 9
:1>) >107175 ! ! ! :4/ >2) 9:39 5051:0 39:> :9 
?5 05 175 ?501>951>9 104 >10 

50 
5 95 05  3>15) 9>5 
0512 39

>) "&$ $ "&   450 :9
4

 14:07 

>) 6515= &'95 $551 : 10 1 14 ! ?
09=  5?91: : 1>
104
0:5 <:0457150= #1 "&! # :04

 >1

?) ?
:5 3550 :00:07 ?55:07 613:>:), 1
0 5 10:
0 :0 9:01 104 04:1= ?50 6
 ?10
6 955 5 :35 :07) 104
95 1:?5= 04 1 9
5 #507 %?) "
6 15 %5 :354 11?50 15
650 : :03>454 :0 95 50= 04 6
 55 4:53> :9 31>5 45> 5 %
?55 ">?:3 '
5 :0 
:1>:) &2 : : 1>
955 3
?154 :9 6: 51 9
5> 91 >:?15 19
?5 655>:07) 9
5> 955 
 91 5 6>> 8 ':10;:0) 9:01) 3
 
:45
05 539175 5057 104 21:0 :0 5?
6 5 :35=  95 9:79 
?5 5 :354 11?50 5 50 9
 5 :35 104 613:>::5 1 1 655 9>5 5 :35 
1 11055 
5 :0 10 1>501: 5
>4 504) 95 
5
6 133
? 1>>
5= :07>5 
39) 9551 :9 "1< 39

> 104 :0501:
01> 39

>=
6 5135) :5 104 5>1 1:
0=, ?
41:
0 4
3
?55) :9 
  :9 9
5>) >5 5>
6 5 

4 $5:45035) 95 11?50 %
?5:?5 95 5 :35 15 5 :354 11?50
665:07 5< :35 1:5 133
4:07 
95 2104= :5 15 >175 104 ?
5 1: ?510 
?1<5 >:65 51:5 6
 
>:<5 

? 5 :35) 4 3>510:07) 3
 
) 15 
:1>: >
54 
61?:>:5), 1 10< 
5) 5:450 1 95 01 :715 95: "0 05 .) 1 
??0:31:
0 89
 3
03:575 45< 104 41:> 104 "1<

4 :1 #13:6:3 5139 :35 5:450
6 ?1<5:07 104 6
5:70 
04:07= 10 11 '5390
>
7 %53:1> 4 5::07 

? 3>510:07=
665 1 >51 955 2104 91 1>5 6
 "1<

4 :1 #13:6:3= ?50 91 5 7
35 
5
0 95: %53:
0 :03
53> 56554 
% 0 75051>) 9
5 5) 5 :354 5 5 4:66550 ?1<5 57?50= '95 7
/ 9:4 2104) "1< 5?:5) 9:>5
95 :>> 95> '5>53
? 1 %
9 
51 '5>53
? 11?50
33 1 4:66550 &"1<

4 #5?:5 175

4 1?50)
665 :?>5 :9 7
35 45>: 5 6
? 0512 104 %'= '95 3
53 01?5 : 0:395= 5 1 >
075  10 50:
 5 53: 5) 104 : 3
? 5 :35= &'95 15 6
 5 53: 5 
5= 04 75 1 10
6 95 % '5>53
?=


               
  
 

  
    437 " :
9?;3 99934? 9
::?69,. 4 =
9 %93; ' E, 

    $
: 49 
?4D?B (9?@?3; ? =9 E4@
 ;49 4

     6? ?3
=?34, ?= 4 734E?6  
 
 96
3
E 437 
3;  
 :
E =9 4 =
??9 ?3 =9 
E
?
3 

 

: 9 ?69 
:
9?;3 ?3 9
 437 6
E43?9B  ?
39
: =9 A9 494
: ;
= ?3 =9 =?399  
 


""> : DD ?3 D49 4 ?=
66  96
3
E,. =9 477B 436 99697 
?9 
8> !9 94, 5
= 6
 437  /$+ !$& =9 ?3 ; , =?D9 $4A

7 4 49 ?DD
93 39 
9 $DE?6 4E9, =?6= ?DD E93, =?6= =4 # 3? :
E ?9 ?3 9?@?3;, =?D9 $4A

7  59 =9D7 ?3 9?@?3; :
E ;B  7?
 

597

E, 4 ?DD D4 36= 43 $4A

7 %9E?9  
;B <, =9 6? ? E 6= > : DD ?3 4 437 99697 =99 ?3 8B *=9 49 6
3?3; D?A9
=9 E4 9 9 ?697 44 
946= 8 > 7 ?3; =9 $DE?6B
3 ??3; 79E437 
A99 469 E93 E4A9 ?3 ?4 9693 :9 =9 ;4E9, 4 B 
9, ?= =9 6
3 6?
3B (
E9? 5 ?D7?3; 5

E =4 
97 D93
66 436 4 5
= 
9?9 ? ?
3 ?DD 79:?3?9D 59 9 
3;
: 39  D ?3
=9 6?, 437 97?697 
59 > 
8>B ?3 9?@?3; 7 ?3; =? 9?
7, 437 79E437, =?D9 ;
?3;  ?6AD, &

E 49 49 4D
??3; 4 4 9D9 ?DD =4 9 4 D

: 6=
?69 =4 3
  ?9 A9 469B =9 ;4E9 74 394B '?3;4
9 4 

E  D ?36949,. 4 B   
6432 ?;3
9 =9 $DE 5497 6
 
, ?42 $3;B (-9 49 99?3; =94D= 49 ?6B *=9 ;4E9 49 5

?3; D4;9
94

: 9 ?697 !               ;
= =? 94B 
9 9, 9 9 ?697 44E93
66 436?9 44E93, E434;9 =99 
       996 E
9 9 9
3 49 437 49, 
7 6?3; 4 947 69 9?9 ?3 9?@?3; =9 E?7E4A9 ?= 
E 6=  D
: 

E 6937
=4 ?DD 6D?E4 ?3 ; B '
E99 437 
 39 4793 ,1  43 
1#,  43B :
 6
 3934?
34DB (-9 6
E?3;
3 
=9 E4A9B. (*=99 ? = ;9 :
6  4 =9 9?@?3; ?= 3?
::9?3;   4 9 D, 9 ?69744 =
D7 99 ;

7 79E437 :
 =9 *=9 D?E49 7? 9
: 9  E
E93
3 =9 $DE?6, 437 
:
 597

EC =9 '
E99 E93
94
 =4 9 5993 = ?3; E
3= :
DD
?3; '99E59 ?697 44E93
66 436?9 ? :
 4 D

: =9 
9?9, =9=9 0=
3; 43 3 ?=
39 437 

93 39 
9?9 ?3 ?E9 :
E 4 9D9 =
79D497 =9? :
9?;3 7?96 ?3 9E93, =?6= ?2 =
9D
 9 ?697 44E93, 
597

E 3?C 437 =9 :
 =9 $DE?6B '=4E4, 4 5
 D43 
??
3 5 ?39,. 4  ;97 4DE
 > ?3 =?34 ?3 =99 ? 43 9::
 
466
EE
 D   6
 9?@?3; ?= 3? ? 9 9 ?697 44E93 6
E43, B $3;, =
? 5497 ?3 '=43; =9 :? :
 E
3=
:  :
E 749 ?,. 4 43A 
9, ?69 :
E
39 
:
 597

EB
9397 =9 " 3? '=4E4  9 =4?B (
= ?3934?
34D 437 =9 4E9 9?
7 4 94 94D?9B 9?793
: E4A9?3; 437 4D9 &49 4 4DD =99 
9?9 =43; 3 ?3 9?@?3; 94D?9 =? 7
E9?6 D9? 9 4 9D ?399  ? =4 D 9 94?49
3 :
 '?3;4
95497 $4A

7 ?DD 
4 ?3 ; , 466
7?3; 94B 37 '?3;4
95497 49 
9?@?3; ?DD 9E4?3 
3;B. D
3;9E 4?;3E93B ?4 %46?:?6B (  $4A

7, 92 9 
=9 ;
2 -95 ?9B 
 94E 
?4D?, ?42 96
37D4;9 *=9 $DE?6 49 3
 =9 E4?3 (*=9 9?@?3; E4A9 9E4?3 =47 $DE?6 5 ?39 ?369 =9 D9, =9 93 :
 4 =99597

E 9 ?697 44E93 6=4?3, ? 7 9 446?
3 :
 9 ?697 44E93 4 6=4DD93;?3;
39,. 4 B 
9 59;?33?3;
: 95 4, 5964 9 44E93 4 '
E99 437 

93 ? 96
37 
9 ?3
94
, =
9 9B 6
3
E?6
: $4A

7B (*=99 ? E
9 437
: =9 9$DE?6 94E =4 
 39 4793 ?DD ?9 :
E =9 64?4D, =9 49 ' ?9  ;
= ? =4 74  =9E 
E
9 
7 6 6
E?3; ?3
D469, 49 6
E?3; ?3B. 1,"  43 )  4 3?;= ?3 9?@?3;,  D 1B =9 64?4DB 437 =
9 49 9 
3; 5437B $4A

7 =4 

9?9 D49 4 
1,"  43 ?3 ;   93 4:9 =9 ;4E9, 5 ?39 (*=99 49 4
?E49D   929  ?9 6
3:?793 ?3 =9 ?3 9?@?3;  ? $4A

7 &9? 7 ?3; =9 ;4E9B  =9 6
 ?DD ;9 4 
$DE?6 5

, #, 939?9 ?3 =9 9?@?3; E4A9 ?9D:, 437 ?3 =9 6
3?3 79369 ?=  3? 43;?3; 9?@?3;, 93 :
 4 =99597 4 &?6=47 $3;, 93?
 ?69 6934D 5 ?39 7??6, ?36D 7?3; 97 ;
= 437 79E437 :
E :
E
39 
? 597

E 4 

E 44E93 ?DD ?9 :
E 9?793 :

94?
3, =?34, " E D?34?
34D 6

4?
3 E D?34?
34D 6

4?
3B.

   
         
  
 

  
     
    
        

" 

 A4 ?: 5 <
 :5D  
?: 5: 
A5EA A 5E
F
A4 
48
4. 5E
?5 :54A
4  
:54 7AA: 5: 5E
6:=A4 A4= A4
4: F5C:D )/: <::E E54D ) A4: A 6

FA4= ;5482   %. ?:: 4A4= 
557 A4:45A
45E ?:: A 

F <
 :54A
4
<   5 5 :7
8 :5D :: <: : A7:8 55
:5
  7? 5 ?: 7

 $ :A8:47: 548 "
7
.0 5   5CC:. = : 5: 5 FA
< 6 A4: :

48
4 65:8 ?:58
< ::57? 57
  
: ?A7? A  4 48: 5:3 
48
4 65:8 7?A:< E: 548 ?
: ?
7
F: 

48
4 <
 ?
A5EA 548 E:A : 5 ?: FA8 F5C: A58A4: 6548
:5A4=
<

               
  
 

  
     
    

   



% 

 5 ::A ;
 5  8?
55D:4 
7
D6?4: >: : ?7:
; 5 C  )"." 5 ::A ;
 5 ;
6:8  >
:C ?> >: 7
4 :4?:47: +& -5C
;

A 

D :4>
: ?4 :4?4<
4B
; 54 55D:4B  1 4?

548 2 : C? :8 ?4 >
:C (,#  #4: < : 5:8 ;
 1 :5 557 6 ?4: :
C: 6  D
 ( ;
 ::A 5 5 ?D:. 6  548 D54 5: ::5 6 ?4:. 5: >?<>:48 C:? : < : ;
D 4
 :;: 
5 ?4 5 : ?7:8 5 B /: :CCB >: ,B'B. 5C?5. 54585 55D:4.0 5 '55> 
4:. (/: 5: : 5D:456C: 
548  
:B 54 D:?754 >

A ;
 5
 < :2 8:D548B ; >: 54  
?8: 5 54<:
; ;57?C? D C?45?
45C 7

5?
4 548 
D:>?4< >:4 : 754
<54 ?: ?47C 8?4< 5 ;?4: 7:4: ? 7 :4C
4 5 >
:D 5?<4 ?: ?B #4: D:?754 < : 5:8 548 >:5C> 5 548 >5 ?
4 D:4 ?4 
48
4B 5
4:
;
 55D:4 >5 ?7>:C?45:8 48?54 :5  ( 754 7
D: 657A.
:4 5 >5 ?
4 7
4: 5
 548 54. +>: % ?C
4B  5C
 4 5 6
C:
; ?4: 548 <: D:C; 5;: 9311 >: 54:8 
<>:4:8 > C: 
4?<>6?8<: 548 
D:>?4< 
:5B  8
42 >5 : ?D.0 >: 588B >
?4< 5:5. 754
<54?: ;

8 :5 54
4 D
4
 ??4< 
5A:
4 
 ;C?<> >
D:. 5 ?4 5 >
:C 65. 548 ?;  54 
' $  - '   ) 7>5 ;;: 8? :4 C?D
?4:. 5 ?4 ?: 
D: ;?:48 5
48 ;
 4544 548 : :4 5 :
45C 6 C:B >: : :4?4<.  754.0 >: 5B  "  "' ' - '& (+>: 6 C: 5: 5?7 C5C (
: 548 D
: 6 ?4:   +' $  
 C5 548 D54
; >:D >5 : : :7 ? :
4 >
:D 
@ ''$ ' + - * 6::4 >:: ;
 D54 :5. 
>5 : :7 548 5?<4D:4 ?4  
: 6 ?C  : 7:CC:4 :C5?
4>? 5:
?4< ;
 : ?7:8 55 -'    '-'' ?>
 : 4?4< < : 548 D:4 6:75 : >:
;;: 5 >
D:   $ - >:? ;5D?C?:.0 5 : 5 
4. 5 5 ;
D >
D: 6  ?> >: D5A:?4< : ?7: D545<:B 588:8 : ?7:
; 5 >
:C  7> -'' -' " $ />?C: >:: D5 6: 5 8:D548 5 8 7C:54?4<. 4:4: 577: -  ' ( & '  + & (-'     )  '$ ' - '* -'  - +*! ;
 6 C: 5 >? :48
; >: 548 <D D:D6:>?.0 5 
D5A:. ;
 >: 5 D5@
?
; 5
4. ?7: :?8:4. 5C: 548 >:?
4 ;
4 8

 A: 548
; C  : ?7:8 55D:4  >: D5A: ;
 : ?7:8 : ?7:8 55D:4 < : ?2 D5A:?4< ;
 
48
465:8 754 ?4 ?: :
C: 
5B +>: ?4 
48
4. 5 (+>: >?4< >5 55D:4 <
. 
D: >
:C >: 7
4 :4?:47: >5 ? 557? :B ?8<:':: /
C8 ?8:.
4:
; 5: 54 ?47:5?4:? 5: 5C

;;:?4< >:DB+>: :
 (#  < : :5
 55 >: 6?<<: : ?7:8 55D:4 ;
 6 ?4: :
C: >
: ?? ? 57B /: 8
42 >5 : C

; 
C?54 
:C
4 
48
42 $5A D:4 5 >:? 
48
4 ;C5.0 
?8: ?4  
:B ? 

C
4< ;
 >:D 
6:  6C?7 57: C?A: >
:C. 6 
 54: >5 :?<> C  55 5 
4
:44?. 8?:7

; ': ?7:8 55D:4
;;: 7

:8  ?4 5 >
:C 

D. 6  < : 8
42 4::8 5 654 :?4< D:4 6  < : 754 : 5CC
; ? 5D:4. >?7>  4 ?D?C5 : ?7: 
>
:C   7> 

>
 
554 >: 4::8 >5CCB +>: 54 
D: >:: C  >: >
:C2 ;57?C??: ?47C 8?4< : ?7:8 55D:4 ?4 
48
42 5 >
:A::?4< 548 5 =>
 
:4 577
DD
85?
4B+>: 5 : ?
 548 C?> >:: >: >: 5 548 >: ?7>:C?45:8 ;?4547?5C 8??7B (+>: 8
42 7
47?:<:  6  < : >5 : 5<: 5 ? >:: 
? D
4>B 754 8
>:?
4 >?45 : 

 56
 D
: 57:. >:?
4 A?7>:4 :
<: /: :CC. <:4:5C D54 >: 5C ? 5 >: 
 :48
; 48 "1  7A?4<>5D 5:. 54 5:7
; >:? 577
DD
 ?> 7

A:. 8?> 5>: 548 5<:
; >: 
48
465:8 >: 5C >: : ?7:8 55D:4 D5A: ?4 
48
42 /:D?4:. >?7> 85?
4. >: @  54 
<:
4 5>:38:. 5 C? ?4< 

D. 
. >?7>
4 5 4 D6: 548 7>5<: ;
D )" *
?
4:8 6 >: +5@ 
:C 
. ?> >:? @
6B0

   
          .vvm     American journalist and au- fully in a grand, imperfect city of Where the Air Is Clear thor Pete Hamill picks his favor- people who are not like us. This By Carlos Fuentes ite books about cities. book helps explain why. ® Obolensky, 1960 Carlos Fuentes’s first novel (pub- Gotham A Time in Rome lished in Spanish in 1958) is set in By Edwin G. Burrows and Mike By Elizabeth Bowen the Mexico City I knew in 1956-57, ¹ Wallace, Oxford, 1999 € Knopf, 1959 when I was a student there. I Every great city is a palimpsest, Across a long life (1899-1973), the walked some of these streets, an old text upon which new texts Irish writer Elizabeth Bowen pro- passed some of these fine houses, are inscribed before the old text duced novels and memoirs that dangerous cantinas and dark, se- is completely erased. My native are dense with a sense of place. ductive nightclubs. But I was a New York is one of those cities. By the time she decided to write stranger, a young gringo with in- This long volume (1,383 pages) is about Rome and her stay there fantile Spanish and very little among the most valuable I own. for several months in the 1950s, money, and I could never know Corbis The authors adhere to scholarly she knew that there was only one these places the way Fuentes did. exactitude but never lose sight of way to experience the city: Read— After reading “Where the Air Is whores, artistic visionaries, char- Invisible Cities the driving narrative that led then get out of the house. “Knowl- Clear,” I surely knew them better. latans, revolutionists, various Na- By Italo Calvino eventually to the city in which edge of Rome must be physical, And just as living in Mexico City poleons, Balzac and Camus, flat- Ò Harcourt, 1974 New Yorkers now live. The au- sweated into the system, worked made me see New York more out criminals, and even Joan of In this delightful work of fiction, thors remind us that we had the up into the brain through the thin- clearly, so did this work of high lit- Arc. After reading “Paris,” you the Tartar emperor Kublai Khan good fortune to be established by ning shoe leather,” she writes in erary art. Each time I return to it will never see Europe’s most beau- sits talking with Marco Polo, the a company (the Dutch West India this marvelous portrait. Bowen is and start reading again, it’s like a tiful city, or its people, the same young traveler from Venice, Co.) and not a king or a religious not afraid to admit her ignorance, new book. way. A few years ago, when read- about cities—55 in all. Both seem sect. The Dutch left us a number but through a combination of ing the book, I reminded a friend to know that every city begins its of gifts, the most important of chance meetings, daily wander- Paris that one reason I love Paris is that life as a work of the imagination. which was tolerance. In our daily ings and the sheer luck of getting By Andrew Hussey it was founded by Celts, from a lives, for those who have lived in lost, Bowen feels Rome emerging, Bloomsbury, 2006 wandering tribe called the Parisii. Mr. Hamill is the former editor of Ë the New York Post and Daily New York for generations or who with all its mysteries, all its an- Everybody is here in this history They saw the Île de la Cité, pro- arrived last week, one fact is tri- noyances and, above all, its thrill- of the “secret city” of Paris: tected by a flowing moat on all News. His books include the novel umphantly clear: We live peace- ing and humbling sense of time. Knights Templar, flâneurs, great sides. Their wandering was over. “North River” (2007).    



                M`ƒd =`w`t 6p` KdŠvp„ƒjvt

By Lee Lawrence terns are reminiscent of Japa- lations, a far cry from Takeshi shares this enthusiasm. At the Hok- Page are bolstering their collec- nese lacquerware. Not long after Fukunishi’s textured, often erup- kaido Asahikawa Museum of Art in tions of Japanese art, Ms. Mizuta Ceramics, bamboo, lacquer- U.S. artists launched the contem- tive sculptures in cast glass. Hokkaido, Yoriko Mizuta curated has not been able to secure finan- ware—these are quintessentially porary glass movement in the This creativity isn’t generating two landmark glass shows in 1997 cial support for additional shows. Japanese materials. But Japan is 1960s, Mr. Fujita and 50 other art- many sales yet in Japan, but it is and 2003 and has juried countless Ms. Mizuta believes younger quickly gaining a reputation for ists established the Japan Glass exciting collectors and museums competitions in Japan. Still, public generations, living in the glass being at the cutting edge of an en- Artcrafts Association headed by in the U.S. “All of a sudden it appreciation for glass is low there and metal environments of mod- tirely different medium: glass art. Hisatoshi Iwata (son of Toshichi seems there is a lot of strong work and “the number of collectors has ern cities, may be developing “a Top U.S. galleries Iwata). Since 1972, coming out of Japan. I feel that in not grown so much.” sympathy for contemporary routinely include the Association has Japanese glass now there is a Economic stagnation is partly glass objects.” But “younger peo- Japanese works in ‘Cutting-edge’ brought artists to- strong, original voice,” says Tina to blame, but there is another, ple are not so rich.” So while the their glass shows work, but gether, staged exhi- Oldknow, curator of contempo- more fundamental explanation: quality of Japanese glass “has and serious glass col- bitions and dissemi- rary glass at the Corning Museum— “Maybe Japanese prefer clay grown very much,” it still lacks lectors worldwide mainly bought nated information one of the world’s most compre- rather than transparent, brilliant an appreciative audience. are steadily adding by foreigners. about this art form. hensive glass collections, based in glass,” she says in a telephone in- In the U.S., on the other hand, Japanese artists to In addition to Corning, New York. “we have a won- their collections. the Association, Ja- Others echo this derful base of This may come as a surprise, pan today boasts 16 glass art pro- high praise. Jutta glass collectors not least because glass art has a grams—many in universities— Page, glass curator and many size- relatively short history in Japan. along with workshops in institu- at the Toledo Mu- able collectors’ The Japanese have historically tions like the Niijima Glass Cen- seum of Art in To- groups,” says viewed the transparent, hard ma- ter south of Tokyo. Regular inter- ledo, Ohio, regards New York gallery terial as foreign and somewhat ex- national exhibitions have also im- Japanese artists as owner Alice Chap- otic, and they have only recently ported American, European and “a lot more adven- pell, who began made utilitarian glass part of ev- Australian glass artists to lead turesome” than showing Japa- eryday life. The Portuguese intro- classes and demonstrations. their counterparts nese glass art duced glassblowing to Japanese This has resulted in an expand- elsewhere. And over two decades craftsmen in the 18th century ing population of energetic Japa- when the Pitts- ago. Collectors’ and, although Nagasaki glass- nese glass artists, attracted in burgh (Pennsylva- groups organize blowers made highly prized ves- part by the medium’s lack of long- nia) Glass Center lectures, demon- sels, larger-scale production only standing traditions and the cre- showcased 17 strations, studio sprang up in the 19th century, lay- ative freedom this affords. A emerging Japanese visits, trips, ing the groundwork for top-qual- tally by Atsushi Takeda, author artists, members of hands-on work-

ity cut glass in the early 1900s. of “Contemporary Glass Artists the International Corning Museum of Glass shops—all to edu- This sense of “otherness” has in Japan” (Asahi Glass Co., Glass Art Society re- Yoichi Ohira’s “Nostalgia” series. cate members on worked in the medium’s favor. In 2003), lists some 300 artists cur- sponded with sur- the medium. This, the 1920s and 1930s, an artist rently active, many of them prise and wonder—and opened terview from Hokkaido. This deep- in turn, fosters appreciation and named Toshichi Iwata was women. The range of work is as- their wallets. “Everything was seated preference may explain the willingness to pay thousands among the first in Japan to see tonishing. Kazumi Ikemoto cov- unique,” says Randi Dauler, co- why Japan never developed as of dollars for works that show in- glass as an artistic medium, creat- ers every millimeter of his ves- founder of the Pittsburgh-based consistent a tradition of glassmak- novation, creativity and mastery. ing fluid, color-rich vessels. An- sels with surreal scenes, while Contemporary Glass Collectors. At ing as it did ceramics. Two leading Which explains why many Ameri- other prominent glass artist, Kyo- Toshio Iezumi’s abstracts refract the show, she bought a vessel by Ya- glass galleries in Tokyo, Gallery can collectors today are setting hei Fujita, developed under Iwa- light through laminated plate suko Kita, and Ms. Oldknow added Nakama and Gallery Kai, are drop- their sights on Japan. ta’s tutorship and earned interna- glass, drawing lyrical plays of an abstract work by Yoshiaki ping art glass this year, according tional fame for glass boxes line. Artist Michiko Miyake cre- Kojiro to her museum’s collection. to Ms. Mizuta. And while glass cu- Ms. Lawrence is a writer based in whose gold and red surface pat- ates tightly patterned wall instal- In Japan, at least one curator rators like Ms. Oldknow and Ms. Brooklyn, New York. |} œ˜š xœ˜ By Joseph Rago ê - Hp`tdƒ Tjƒhv„ƒ Hdvwpd

I confess to enjoying appall- actually acts of nature. Trees are flick. Think of 2004’s “The Day Af- great it would be for the planet. Since population control led ing movies. It takes a kind of re- releasing an airborne neuro- ter Tomorrow,” where all it takes “The Happening” merely takes to such PR disasters of the late verse genius to make something toxin, as revenge against man- is the CO2-induced obliteration this misanthropy to its logical ex- 20th century as mass forced ster- like “Gigli” or “You Got Served.” kind for global warming, pollu- of the East Coast for Dennis treme. ilizations under Indira Gandhi There was such possibility, then, tion and nuclear power. The geno- Quaid to learn how to be a better Of course, most mainstream and China’s one-child policy, it when M. Night Shyamalan’s hor- cide, we are told, is condign pun- dad. But catastrophic climate greens limit themselves to nag- makes people queasy. Instead, ror film “The Happening” blew ishment for our ecological change in that movie was a sim- ging on behalf of Mommy Na- the greens, when not plumping into box offices last week on a crimes. ple plot device that could be re- ture. Yet amid the for massive car- gale of critical denigration; “the The conceit extends a meta- placed easily enough with, say, much ado about bon tax-and-reg- worst film since ‘Gigli,’” some- phor Al Gore proposed in his space aliens. “The Happening” is global warming, ulation schemes, one even called it. 2007 No- honest-to-Gaia green agitprop: the people prob- Environmentalists focus on behav- But “The Happening” is no bel lec- Like the Lorax, Mr. Shyamalan is lem is asserting it- find their ioral alterations— “Kangaroo Jack.” It’s appalling ture: If speaking for the trees. self with a neo- dream movie. like taking public all right, not as entertainment “we Environmentalism’s seam of Malthusian ven- transit or install- but in the literal sense of genu- have be- misanthropy traces back to John geance. Almost ev- ing the correct ine moral obscenity. Few ma- gun to Muir, who founded the Sierra ery element of light bulbs. The jor studio releases are so wage war Club in 1892, and probably to Tho- modern life is reducible to car- weight given to consumer- thoroughly pro-death, on the Earth reau. We’re just another species, bon. Like it or not, a higher popu- driven change, however, means so deeply anti-hu- itself,” why the thinking goes, or would be lation leads inexorably to more that the people problem can’t man. We have ar- wouldn’t the Earth had our iniquities not made us un- anthropogenic greenhouse help but seep out into the cul- rived at a fight back? By the worthy of a place in the ecosys- gases. ture at large. Having kids is the strange mo- end of the film, the tem. The existence of Homo sapi- The Intergovernmental Panel most carbon-intensive choice ment in Amer- dwindling band of sur- ens is an affliction and cause for on Climate Change ranks demo- most people will ever make. ican pop cul- vivors—whose more profound shame. graphic proliferation as a “driver Not surprisingly, more than a ture when sensible response would Today the position persists for emissions.” British environ- few of the recent handbooks for movie-goers have been to blanket the along the fringes of the “deep mental minister Hilary Benn— “green living” recommend think- spend two hours in world’s forests with Agent ecology” movement, where ad- most recently spotted endorsing ing seriously about children. The the theater being in- Orange—repents, and is thus herents can still be found chant- carbon rationing cards as a set of Sierra Club says that the ideal formed that we all deserve to die. spared hideous death. In a recent ing, “Four legs good! Two legs new sumptuary laws—notes number is two. Messrs. Weisman

The “happening” is millions of M.E. Cohen interview, Mr. Shyamalan, best bad!” But the message also has with approval that “family plan- and McKibben say it’s one. Mr. men, women and children killing known for “The Sixth Sense” some mainstream appeal: A best- ning is the ultimate carbon offset- Shyamalan seems to think it’s themselves, usually in creative (1999), said that “The Happen- selling book last summer was ting scheme.” Even though Paul zero. It can’t be long before we’re ways, as when a zookeeper in- ing” is intended to “wake every- “The World Without Us,” in Ehrlich’s “population bomb” has being offered another helpful vites lions to chew off his limbs body up” and “get back to the cor- which science journalist Alan been defused again and again, “tip”: Kill yourself. and a lady offs herself by French- rect relationship with nature.” Weisman gleefully imagined how Jeffrey Sachs, Jared Diamond, kissing the toaster. The deaths, Obviously it isn’t Hollywood’s nature would respond if man Bill McKibben and others have Mr. Rago is an editorial page first believed to be terrorism, are first environmental disaster abruptly went extinct and how come to similar conclusions. writer for the Journal.

   
       
 ƒjqda ;}j ?„v vee Message Sticks Film Festival (Warlpiri Media); Mitsukoshi (costume); Joan Marcus (‘Wicked’); Rubén Ramos Balsa (‘Pies de Plomo’)

Beijing Eugene Stafford captured images of learns the stork they belong to isn’t CIRCUS that time, and the 60 in this scary after all. He also learns to share Splendid: In a show produced specifi- exhibition include shots of ordinary his best friend. The Sunday afternoon cally for a run during the Olympics, life as well as of the burning of show is in English; the rest are in government-established China Hankou and of battles between Cantonese (but with English song National Acrobatic Troupe presents 13 imperial and revolutionary forces. lyrics); all shows offer English and dramatic acts, from flips and tumbles Dr. Sun Yat-sen Museum, Chinese surtitles. to plate-spinning and juggling. The 7 Castle Rd., Central; to Nov. 19, Small Auditorium, Macao Cultural acrobatics include a ballerina standing 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., to 7 p.m. Centre, Ave. Xian Xing Hai, NAPE; “en pointe” on a man’s outstretched Sundays, closed Thursdays. July 11 to 13, 8 p.m., additional elbow, a pyramid of performers Admission: HK$10. 3 p.m. show July 13 in English. balancing stacks of wineglasses on  852-2367-6373 Admission: 140 patacas. their feet and a “human peacock” Web: hk.drsunyatsen.museum  853-2855-5555 created by 24 acrobats piled onto two Web: www.ccm.gov.mo moving bicycles. Kuala Lumpur Poly Theatre, Poly Plaza, MUSICAL Melbourne 14 Dongzhimen South St., Disney’s Beauty & the Beast: This is MUSICAL Dongcheng District; July 4 to 10 the first Malaysian production of a Wicked: “The Wizard of Oz” gets a and Aug. 1 to 7, 7:30 p.m. show that bagged nine nominations kind of prequel: the tale of how two Admission: 80 yuan to 1,280 yuan. for Tony Awards on Broadway and young women in the Land of Oz grew  86-10-6417-7845 has been seen by 25 million people up to gain the titles of the Good Web: www.piao.com.cn world-wide. The stage version of the Witch and the Wicked Witch of the Disney animated film tells the tale of West. Based on a novel by Gregory Hong Kong smart, strong-willed Belle. To save her Maguire, “Wicked” became a huge hit DANCE father, she accepts imprisonment by on Broadway with its retelling, in Sylvia: London’s Royal Ballet revives Beast, a gruesome, ill-tempered which green-skinned Elphaba—destined the long-lost Frederick Ashton 1952 animal who’s actually a handsome to become the Wicked Witch choreography (a tribute to 19th-century prince burdened by a curse and badly squashed by Dorothy’s house (or is French ballet) for this Léo Delibes work in need of love. Familiar tunes include she?)—is shown to be the true hero. from 1876. Sylvia is a nymph who’s “Be Our Guest,” “Belle” and the title In college she even befriends the captured by the huntsman Orion. He song. beautiful, popular Glinda (destined to attempts to woo her, but she resists Plenary Hall, Kuala Lumpur become the Good Witch), though the and waits for her true love, a shepherd. Convention Centre, Kuala Lumpur relationship has its ups and downs. Will Eros, the god of love, step up and City Centre; to July 3; 3 p.m. and The Regent Theatre, give her a hand? 8 p.m., no 3 p.m. show June 27, 191-197 Collins St.; Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural no performances June 30. June 27 to Aug 24, (preview Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Admission: 90 ringgit to performances to July 11), Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; 350 ringgit. various times, no shows Mondays or Tuesdays. July 17 and 18, 7:30 p.m.  60-3-2241-9999 Top, Sydney: The Message Sticks Film Festival will mark 25 years of Warlpiri Admission: A$79.90 to A$125.90 Admission: HK$180 to HK$880. Web: www.ticketcharge.com.my Media—aboriginal TV; above, Tokyo: a Kabuki costume from ‘Kazari’  852-2734-9009  61-132-843 Web: www.urbtix.hk Macau Web: premier.ticketek.com.au THEATER a pair of tangos by Astor Piazzolla, Little Donkey: Seoul Shanghai EXHIBITION Amsterdam’s Theatre Julius Klebgel’s “Hymnus” and Edith China’s 1911 Revolution: CONCERT DANCE China’s last Terra presents this musical show for Piaf’s signature tune, “La vie en rose.” dynasty, the Qing, collapsed in 1911 as kids, based on characters from a The Twelve Cellists of the Berlin The Butterfly Lovers: The Shanghai Seoul Arts Center, the Wuchang Uprising—a rebellion of popular Dutch book series and Philharmonic Orchestra: These 12 Ballet presents this Chinese folk tale revolutionaries in Hubei who were featuring life-size puppets. Little musicians—usually part of the musical 700 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu; about a student romance. The heroine discovered by police—set off the Donkey, rebuffed by his best friend, texture of a full orchestra—strike out July 10 and 11, 8 p.m. is initially disguised as a boy so she Xinhai Revolution. Within months, Sun Yakky the Yak (who wants to play on their own here, producing the rich Admission: 30,000 won to can receive schooling, but quickly falls Yat-sen would take the helm of the with a new kid who has lots of toys), and surprisingly varied sounds of a 140,000 won. in love with a good friend and fellow newly christened Republic of China. hunts for some socks missing from 12-cello choir. The two programs differ  82-2-3774-2671 classmate. They travel back to her American photographer Francis the clothesline after a storm, and slightly, but both evenings will include Web: www.sac.or.kr hometown together, but tragedy


               ensues when her family insists she marry another classmate, an ill-mannered and cruel boy. Opera Hall, Shanghai Oriental Art Center, 425 Dingxiang Rd., Pudong District; June 28 and 29, 7:15 p.m. Admission: 100 yuan to 500 yuan.  86-21-6217-2426 Web: www.culture.sh.cn Singapore EXHIBITION Transient Light Whispering Breeze: Spanish multimedia artist Rubén Ramos Balsa, who exhibited in last year's Venice Biennale, collaborates with Singaporean sound artist Yuen Chee Wai in a show whose themes include the nature of time. Among the site-specific works on display is a Far left, light bulb that contains what appears Melbourne: to be a pair of dancing feet. ‘Wicked’ The Atelier, National Museum of topped U.K. charts; one won a various times (July 11 show is 2 Chang An Jie; Grammy in the U.S. If you want to sold out). July 24 to 27, 7:30 p.m., upturns ‘The Singapore, Wizard of Oz’; catch a show, book fast. Tokyo Admission: 9,000 yen to additional show 93 Stamford Rd.; left, Singapore: to July 13, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. performances are sold out, and only 11,000 yen. July 26, 2:30 p.m. ‘Pies de Plomo Free admission. a few seats remain for Beijing.  81-6-6362-7301 Admission: (Zapateado Luz),’ by  65-6332-3659 Osaka: Osaka Festival Hall, Web: www.hipjpn.co.jp/pc 780 yuan to 980 yuan. Rubén Ramos Balsa from Web: www.nationalmuseum.sg 2-3-18 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Beijing: Opera House, National  86-10-6417-7845 ‘Transient Light Sydney Osaka-shi, Osaka-fu; July 8 to 13, Centre for the Performing Arts, Web: www.piao.com.cn Whispering Breeze’ FESTIVAL Message Sticks Film Festival 2008: This festival chooses from among the latest works by Australia’s aboriginal filmmakers. This year’s lineup includes “River of No Return,” a documentary about Frances Djulibing, a Yolngu woman from a remote community in North East Arnhem Land, who aspires to be the indigenous Marilyn Monroe. A handful of shorts will also be shown, among them “Yolngu Guya Djamairr,” a look at how a reinterpretation of a dance from “Zorba the Greek” by 10 aboriginal dancers became an international Web sensation. Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point; July 5 and 6, various times. Free admission; for guaranteed seating, day passes A$20 to A$30.  61-2-9250-7777 Web: www.sydneyoperahouse.com Tokyo EXHIBITION Kazari: This exhibit explores the objects and routines involved in kazari, the act of adorning, as an ancient ritual that still permeates Japan’s modern culture. It extends from the clothes and accessories that people wear to decorations and ceramics used in festivals. Items on display include an Edo-period handscroll and pitcher, both ornately decorated, an early 20th-century Kabuki costume, and an intricately carved helmet in the shape of “shachi,” a fierce-looking mythological fish. Suntory Museum of Art, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku; to July 13. 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., to 6 p.m. Sundays and Mondays, closed Tuesdays. Admission: 1,300 yen.  81-3-3479-8600 Web: www.suntory.co.jp/sma Tour: Asia DANCE Riverdance: This lively, popular show of traditional Irish step dancing has been around for more than a decade. The act is characterized by the iconic long line of performers tap-dancing in almost-unnaturally perfect, fast-paced sync—with upper bodies held still. The dancers have performed to sold-out and record-setting audiences in Europe, North America and Asia, and videos and CDs of performances have

   
           {zŽ V„Œ„™— V{Žz„Ž€ Milan in 2003 Gallery in Marella at Paris exhibition in solo Gallery a and Maxe Chine”) Veronique at bition ina ol-ls uem i aoievne r itdbelow. listed are venues favorite His museum. world-class a at tion no.To ondon. ¯]}r™•—}|}y}™™‘— ]Ž}‚r»™ ¬¯ ¯D‘Œ€‘ŒŠ™ D—‘ŒŒ ¯ fr» Ž‘—r¥ r f„r›»™ ¬ ¯W|» Žr Wr|¥»™ ¯ ·R¦ †Œ™ R}r¤ †‘Œ††™› Rr¦¦ ¬· d}›„— Ÿ†›„ dŸ}r›™„†—› ¬ P}Œ•Œry} P|}rŒ  ¼d•—}} ¬¼ C ‘€ Š}¥ ›„} † I ¬ ¬MŽ €›}\C==»™ ›„} ‘€ M‘Ž} ¬ 6‹» r„—I r} f„r \rŠ}| I‘ br›„}— ‹P»| 6 =›—I—i™ˆy €‘— i†™ˆ†y I‘—r =y›‘—  D}‘™|†‚™ D†}‚‘»™   C‘™r ¼ ZŠ }™™›œ€€¥ Œ}™™ ZrŠ}  ¯26™•‘}›‘—‚ •—‘›}™› 2¨6¯™ 2¯ ]‚ •—‘›}™›}| ]—‚ 2 ¬h† €Ÿ‘—Š ‘€ h†› 2¬ 2‹„ d}y—}› ‹f„} ¬2 6T¥ŒŽ † €}r›œ—} •†} Œ†Ž} T}¥ 26 ·^y  •}r}› ›—r}ŒK ›‘ •—}•r—}  ^ryŠ 2· WŠ ‘}œ†}™› ŸrŒŒ™ œ†}—™†›¥ ™‘Ž} W†Š} 2 @}„‘Œ| 2 ¼fy¥ŒŸ ‘—rŽ}›™ ŒrŸ fryŠ¥ 2¼ 2‹r „†‚Œµ‚‘| b„}†‚‘Œ|µ ‹Dr™ 22 icQwŒ „™ t‘ C„}™›  †}›œ C„rŽ•r‚} ›—œ} W†Š} ¬ ry} •r—› br›y„}› 6 ‘›t‘} H‘‘› ¨ †„ ›†Ž} W†‚„› · icQwŒ <—„qV„Žˆ—     
           

 
   ŽŠ„Ž{ B•——œ•z r†‚›Ž ‘€€ ›†Ž} frŠ†‚ ¼ sM.Fn’ okgt oeatninaon h ol,i has it world, the around attention more gets work Feng’s Mr. As hth ash ol elylk,tog,i ohv ooexhibi- solo a have to is though, like, really would he says he What ¥2¯¤D‘Ÿ t¥ }‚ ^‘›¥ r›‘• rœ›„‘— =‚}›µ }—H— ‘—‚ Hœ—µ j}r— Zœ™›r‚™ ‘} } eoaini midtown in renovation multimillion-dollar a in expanded and revamped been recently has MoMA York New Art, Modern of Museum The nentoa r world. art the international in accolade high attained a has Feng, Mr. says museum, this solo in a exhibition do to able is who artist An Manhattan. =pd Wd =„pjdƒ . q™œ{· —Šš™„Ž œ{{ˆ·— Vq—™ ¯‹„ ‘—›„} ™‘‘}— ‹f„} 6¯ ¯d}y‘|¤™›—†‚}— ·¯ =P\G= ] b G f]^ f P k G = G =b G \ P Z= ¬^™¤rr„•r† ^‘™›¤Žr—r›„‘ ¬ œ• C‘Ž}™ ¼¯ ‹‘t „ I—}}Šµ ›„} ‹o‘—tr 6 ¬‹r Ÿ„r›µ ‹dr¥ 6¬ –œrŒ†›¥ C‘†y†‚ ¬¨ ·Z—‘† T†r Zr—ˆ‘—†} · ¨bœ‘™t†—| brœy‘œ™ 6¨ ˆ‘t™K ™‘Ž} Œ†Š} ¤€†} 66 ¬HŒ œ€™y„r}Œ tœ€€»™ H†ŒŽ ·¬ =› |rtt— r| =œ›‘  |‘ ŠŸ‘  ¼ ·I‘ œŠy„r—Ž ŒœyŠ I‘‘| 6· €†ŒŽ H}——}ŒŒ j†ŒŒ ¯¯ ·¨ P}r|y•‘}›—¥ Py}Œr|†y 6 ¬ZtŒ y—}r›‘— Z‘t†Œ} ¼¬ ¨^•Œ—€‘ŒŠ™ ^‘•œŒr— ¼¨ |†™Žr›Œ}| =‚y¥ ¼6 @}}€†› ·· ¼‹ ‘Œ  „‘—™}Eµ  y‘œŒ| ‹P ·¼ H‘›}™r C—‘yŠ}›› H—‘›†}—™Žr ¼ j d \ G D \ P W D G b @ d ^ ] ^ h ]j\ C D=P\P\ = \T P b=D P \D P \ P DDb= P =Cb DG GfP\fbhDGb P \Gdf P H =DWGb G]]=b=db dG P b= =bbG=bd DGd]f] dC] DP ^GGDGG iPI\GffG =h MGP=]] \G P ]i =I] P fMGG i=WhG = GHdG^=\fG dMGG^ dGWH dZ=bZ @=b f\f @b=D@bG=DfM jP^GM k = W G b f G M C d d M] G ^ P dj 2@‘}™ry Ÿ‘—| ™}r—y„ @‘‘Œ}r 2 f ]=Z\Gd^]WW C]b=WZP\DGbd Cfb =Wd@\P\db \@= dhbG \ P @G\ C=WWhd bd@bdf=PW \Dd P WH P fb= Cb=dM@=bDd Chb@GD W=IGb bGGD GfC fddb=^jG D P = dfbG=Z^]jDGb GfDd ] ]G Gb=D TG P \ b]ZG] d W]P =CIW ]d=bh@= \]Dd IGWd d==C P j hII] W d d b = d G = C \ P dj= ™}››†‚ y‘ŒŒ}y›†‘ t}››}—Eµ 2¨¨2 † rŒ™Ž}Ž‘†— brŸŒ†‚™ —}Œ†}}—™ ^G =G ^=df= ^=bG\ ]^fGD bmbZ bhWG b=Z= fb]m GZ] dbP\I b Wd ]P ^GbZ hn in.” sunlight shine the see can you spiral, huge (building’s) of the middle the in “Standing olcini Venice. in Collection h eg Guggenheim Peggy the and Berlin in Guggenheim h ibo h Deutsche the Bilbao, the owns also that foundation private a by and operated owned is museum This York New Museum, Guggenheim R. Solomon ¯ ¯¯Pr†€†ŒŽ P›rŒ†r ¯¯¯ 2¯¯ ¯ W—†Œ ™†‚}— ‹W‘}—‚†—Œµ 2¯ ¯ r† •œ•†Œ ^r—†™ 2¯¬ ¯ —• ›}Ÿ—™y†›¥ ™›}}ŒŸ‘—Š™ T—œ•• 2¯¨ T}¥t‘r—| 2¯6 ¯ ‘ |Ÿ‘—Š}— G| C‘ 2¯· —™¤|††‚‚—‘œ• ^—}™¤r|†™†‚ 2 ¯ ¯ Ž— ™ r™ dŽr—› 2¯¼ ¯ r}yr—| Cr€} 2¯2 2 ‘—r†›Tœ•y†}› R‘œ—rŒ†™› 22 2 MrŠ}—†‚ 22¬ 2 œ™@¥r›†} @r¥ Mœ|™‘ 22¨ ™›‘• bb 226 2 œŽ—trt¥ dœŽŽ}— 22¼ 2 ‘›y†‚„›™ ^‘}›†y 222 ¯^r}€—™‘Ž} €‘— ^Œry} ¨¯ Z‘† Z‘‘  6‹‚‘ †y  tr|  Ÿ†›y„ ‹‚‘‘| 6 6^™‘r •‘}› ^r™›‘—rŒ ¨6 ·Zy†‚™‘—› Z‘yŠ†‚ ¨· f†r‘ W™I†—Œ™µ ‹W}™ ‘€ fr†r ¨ 2d„r››}—}| ¨2 @}ŒŒœyy† Z‘†yr ™›r——†‚ ™rŒ}™Ž} Zr—™}†ŒŒ}™ Ÿ†›y„µ  Zr—†}  ™„‘—›yœ›

Ismael Roldan (illo), Singapore Art Museum (painting)