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The Offering TRAVEL FEATURE So, here’s how to do Bangkok at speed. Best of Bangkok 1. The Royal Temples Bangkok has amazing temples (over 400) and beautiful, historic, monumental palaces that are a must on any visit. I have done the main ones many times and I still find them awe-inspiring. On the itinerary should definitely be the Grand Palace and opposite it on the left bank of Chao Phraya River, the The magnificent sparkling spires of Wat Arun, covered in porcelain and colourful glass. The distinctive Temple of Dawn is magical at nighttime when the lit spire glows over the river. Google Bangkok and your screen will be flooded with images of the former Golden Buddhas home of the Thai King, The Grand Palace, Xxxxxxx City built back in 1782 and the most renowned of and revered landmark in Bangkok. Expect to lose hours in the compound in a maze of Buddhist sculptures, mosaics and temples dating back to the foundation of the city. The highlight and most sacred being the 14th century Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of Angels the Emerald Buddha. 2. The Reclining Buddha The 46-metre-long giant reclining gold leaf Buddha is well worth visiting at Wat Pho, one of the largest and oldest temples and home to the original Thai massage. Wat Pho has the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand and houses the national headquarters and centre of education of traditional Thai medicine and massage. Bangkok is one big, crazy city. But as Norah Casey discovers, beneath the chaotic Courses in Thai massage are held in Wat veneer you’ll find beautiful people, amazing food and the most stunning of sights. Pho and it is worth taking the time and premium price to experience the best Thai massage at this historically significant place. angkok of the city were overwhelming. son’s school on the outskirts of Bangkok is moving Tuktuk drivers pushed picture menus of speaking to the toughest of audiences – 3. Floating Markets life take a trip to Patpong where a night fast and unspeakable things (almost all involving some entrepreneurial 11-year-olds of all The floating markets, made famous by market predominantly selling fake brands everything ping pong balls) and every journey was a nationalities who pitched eco-friendly Roger Moore’s James Bond in The Man shares space with illicit bars and night clubs Bbar the traffic is near-death experience, ducking and diving robots to me, Dragon’s Den style. with the Golden Gun, with boats piled high selling sex shows, including the infamous surging outwards around the mad traffic. Bangkok is the with exotic fruit and overladen with fresh cola bottle and ping pong shows. These two The mysteriously disappeared silk magnate and upwards. second most dangerous city for driving in vegetables, are really worth visiting. Top of parallel roads, next to Silom Road, Patpong Jim Thompson’s art-filled house The city sprawls the world after Libya. In more recent years City of Angels the list for visitors is Damnoen Saduak but 1 and 2 are big tourist attractions so beware to over eight million my husband Richard and I were back and Thai people tend to shorten words and you can also catch this magical spectacle at of rip-offs. The web is littered with tales of people and my sense is forth to Bangkok in 2010 meeting various phrases which is why Bangkok came to be Amphawa, and Klong Lat Mayom. inebriated backpackers who were caught knock off jeans and t-shirts and hordes that city planners are few and far between. Thai publishers and we connected with a called Great City of Angels, the first four in various scams. But then, in my opinion, of western 20-something-year-olds who Futuristic skyscrapers erupting from the wonderful group of Irish ex-pats who had words of the unpronounceable 45-word- 4. Jim Thompson’s House maybe those who frequent the demeaning mistakenly believe they are experiencing the sprawling streets seem incongruous in a set up the Thai Irish Chamber of Commerce long ceremonial name for the city. And it is The mysterious disappearance of architect, sex shows deserve to be ripped off. A similar, real Bangkok. Worth a visit but not worth place teeming with the most revered, sacred (TICC). There is nothing better in a strange angelic. There are many sides to Bangkok, designer and silk magnate Jim Thompson seedy vibe can be found at Nana Plaza and lingering too long. spaces of the ancient orient. So it is that you city than having a strong Murphia to help so despite the urgency of the crowds and on a hiking trek in 1967 makes a visit to his the smaller and tamer Soi Cowboy which can wander through the most beautiful of navigate through the tourist veneer to the the cars, Thai people are more serene than house another must do on the list. Minutes boasts over 40 go-go bars (close to BTS 7. Thai Massage timeless temples while gazing upwards at underbelly of a city. This time I was invited to stressed. Greetings come in the form of the from the madness of central Bangkok, this Asoke and MRT Sukhumvit). A Thai massage should be a daily treat with the gleaming, towering office blocks that speak at the inaugural Asia Ireland Awards graceful wai and the words of welcome peaceful place will transport you back perhaps a foot massage in the late afternoon symbolise growing economic prosperity at hosted by Chamber President Paul Scales sawatdee. The lifestyle is also relaxed. A in time. Thompson’s home is actually six 6. Khao San Road after a day’s sight-seeing. Steer clear of the the heart of Thailand. and the Irish Ambassador to Bangkok, watchword for Thai people is sabai, being separate teakwood Thai houses on stilts Backpackers flock to Bangkok or more Khao San Road mass massage beds and I first went to Bangkok in my twenties Brendan Rogers. The first recipient was an happy or relaxed. To add emphasis, you set among tropical foliage on the Saen specifically Khao San Road, a crazy strip head for a local shop. They’re plentiful, when the city was dealing with an influx amazing woman, fellow Dubliner Susan are likely to hear sabai sabai – roughly Saeb Canal. Thompson’s passion for Thai of bars, market stalls and plentiful cheap usually on many floors with foot massage of displaced elephants and mahouts from Whelan, the CEO of Leicester City Football translated meaning tranquil or chilled. art shines through with Chinese porcelain, accommodation. This time I took a hasty at street level and pressure-point, full-body the logging industry in Chang Mai. It was Club and Senior Executive Vice President at While getting lost in the soi (streets) of ancient scrolls, sculptures and many other walk through the crowds from one end to Thai massage on upper floors. For just €8 for surreal to see these large matriarchs, so King Power in Bangkok. While I was there Bangkok is a regular occurrence, staying treasured artifacts on display. the other and not much has changed. Khao 60 minutes of limb and body loosening you used to the lush forests, holding up multiple I also spoke to the Irish women’s network chilled is the only response. This time my San comes alive at night and everything is will feel rejuvenated and ready for the next lanes of traffic on the Sukhumvit, oblivious co-founded by Sharon Jones – a constant schedule was as crazy as Bangkok and 5. The ‘Red Light’ District on sale, from platters of crunchy crickets to adventure. If you want a step up, try one of to the cacophony of honking horns. The companion and guide during my stay. On thanks to the local Irish, I did more in a few The seedy side of Bangkok is never too far sidewalk tattoos, on-street massage, buckets the Asia Herb Association places in the city colours, sounds, smells and the bizarreness one memorable day I found myself at her days than on all of my other trips combined. from the surface and for a slice of Bangkok of Thai whiskey (ridiculously cheap), where you will pay a little bit more (circa 104 IRISH TATLER APRIL 2017 APRIL 2017 IRISH TATLER 105103 TRAVEL 16. Tat Bat (alms giving) I got up very early one morning and headed out offerings, eating this first meal of the day in silence. onto the streets to witness for the first time the I just observed the spectacle as only the spiritual Buddhist tradition of Tak Bat the morning alms- should take part in this tradition. Unfortunately, giving to the saffron-robed monks who head out some tourists don’t take the time to understand from the temples usually between 5am and 7am. the rules of this ritual and inadvertently show This is well worth the early morning start. The disrespect. Some 95 per cent of Thai people monks walk barefoot in single file with the most practice Theravada Buddhism, more a spiritual senior monk going first, each carrying a large way of life than a religion. Senior monks are highly silver bowl. There is a serenity and beauty to the revered in Thailand, you’ll see pictures everywhere, Babette’s rooftop ritual of the giving of rice and other food gifts by on street stalls, cafes even our tuktuk driver had speakeasy lay people, many of whom get up early to cook many adorning the walls of his carriage. Make a the offering. The procession passes along rows of plan to get up early, it really is worth it.
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