ISSN No. 2222-968-5 REGD

21 February –5 March 2012 ISSN No. 2222-968-5 REGD. DA no. 327 NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK = V.36/N0.5/2012

NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK=V.36/N0.5/2012 1 REGD. DA no. 327 NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK = V.36/N0.5/2012

The Jamdani fashion & hand loom bro- cause of their complicated designs, were cade woven cotton fabric weaving tradition always considered the most expensive pro- of Bengali origin, which historically was ductions of the Dhaka looms. referred linking with muslin, fabulously The word Jamdani is of Persian origin, from rich in motifs. Jamdani is believed to be a 'Jam' meaning flower and 'Dani' meaning a fusion of the ancient cloth-making tech- vase or a container. Though mostly used niques of Bengal (perhaps 2,000 years for SARIS (Indian Traditional Dress), Jam- old) with the muslins produced by Bengali dani is also used for scarves, home textile, Muslims since the 14th century. Jamdani is clothing and handkerchiefs. Four kinds of the most expensive product of Dhaka fine cloth used to be made in Bengal and looms since it requires the most lengthy Pundra in those days, viz khouma, dukul, and dedicated work. In the 14th century, pattrorna and karpasi. From various histori- Ibn Batuta profusely praised the quality of cal accounts, folklore and slokas, it may be cotton textiles of Sonargaon of Bangla- assumed that very fine fabrics were avail- desh. Towards the end of the 16th century able in Bengal as far back as the first dec- the English traveler Ralph Fitch and histo- ade before Christ. Cotton fabrics like dukul rian Abul Fazl also praised the muslin. and muslin did not develop in a day. Dukul According to a 1747 account of muslin ex- textile appears to have evolved into muslin. port, fabrics worth Re 550,000 were Jamdani designs and muslin developed si- bought for the Emperor of Delhi, the multaneously. The fine fabric that used to Nawab of Bengal and the famous trader be made at Mosul in Iraq was called mosuli Jagath Sheth. The same year European or mosulin In his 9th century book Sril Silat traders and companies bought muslin -ut-Tawarikh the Arab geographer Solaiman worth Re 950,000. According to James Wise, Dhaka mentions the fine fabric produced in a state called Rumy, muslin worth Re 5 million was exported to England in which according to many, is the old name of the territory 1787. James Taylor put the figure at Re 3 million. We do now known as Bangladesh. not know exactly when jamdani came to be adorned with The earliest mention of the origin of Jamdani and its de- floral patterns of the loom. It is, however, certain that in velopment as an industry is found in Kautilya's book of the Mughal period, most likely during the reign of either economics (about 300 AD) where it is stated that this Emperor Akbar (1556–1605) or Emperor Jahangir (1605 fine cloth used to be made in Bengal and Pundra. Its –1627), the figured or flowered muslin came to be mention is also found in the book of Periplus of the Eri- known as the jamdani. Forbes Watson in his most valu- trean Sea and in the accounts of Arab, Chinese and Ital- able work titled Textile Manufactures and Costumes of ian travelers and traders. the people of India holds that the figured muslins, be-

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Rukunuddin Ahmed > CEO & Editor-in-Chief Editor & Publisher< Y. A. Shanchoy, Switzerland USA Bureau Chief < Mujibuddin Ahmed, USA Daisy Ahmed >Managing Editor Editor-in-Chief < Rukunuddin Ahmed, Italy Publisher< Rukunuddin Ahmed Fatima Ahmed Jayantee > Syndicate Editor Feature Editor < Faizun Nahar Shanchita, Italy UK Bureau < Sayed Chowdhury, Media Mohal Ltd. Mohammad Ibrahim > News Editor Art & Design Director < Shafiqul Kabir Chandan, Milan Mariam Ahmed > Business Reporter English Version Editor < Sanowar Hossain Milon

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The Arduous art of weaving JANDANI

For fashion aficionados, always on industry. A number of factors con- meals or prayers. The work itself is the lookout for something new, the tributed to this decline. Use of ma- very laborious and requires extreme development of local fabrics is wel- chinery in the English textile indus- concentration. come news. It means that designers try, and the subsequent import of These expert weavers can create the have more material, literally speak- lower quality, but cheaper yarn from design mentally during the weaving ing, to experiment with and create Europe, started the decline. Most of the saris. There is no mechanical clothes that are not desperate copies importantly, the fall of Mughal power technique involved. Jamdani weav- of Bollywood fashion, but originals in India, deprived the producers of ers have remained largely illiterate that set their own trend. In order to Jamdani of their most influential pa- or semi-literate. However, despite make sure that this kind of develop- the lack of any primary education in ment of local fabrics continues, we its formal sense, the mental faculties as consumers have a responsibility of the weavers are as sharp as to try to consciously buy Bangla- mathematicians. How so ever com- deshi products when we think of go- plex the pattern might be, it is im- ing shopping. Supporting this indus- printed in the minds of the master try will not only boost the demand weaver and passed down from gen- for Bangladeshi fabrics locally but eration to generation through ap- internationally too. prentices who eventually -- through The designs and colors of Jandani years of toil -- become master weav- also changed with time. Originally, ers. There are no written documents the motifs used to be made on gray for the innumerable motifs used in fabric. Later on fabrics of other col- Jamdani. The motifs are repeated ours were also used. In the 1960s, with remarkable precision and there jamdani work on red fabric became is hardly any inconsistency in the very popular. The Victoria and Albert design. Nothing is sketched or out- Museum of London has a fine collec- lined. The weavers just know the tion of jamdani with work in white exact number of times to do a cer- on white fabric. The production tain stitch to combine the yarns to methods have also changed. Previ- come up with a particular motif. ously, popcorn, rice or barley was Jamdani industry, which is nothing used for starch. Before making jam- less than “high art”, can only survive dani, the designers used to dye their if the market is expanded within yarn and starch it. For dye they used Bangladesh and outside. Jamdani flowers and leaves of creepers. For needs to be made more popular quality jamdani they used yarn of among the privileged classes while 200 to 250 counts. These days ensuring that the quality and artistry weavers buy fine yarn from the mar- of the weave is maintained. Unless ket and use chemical dyes instead of the demand for Jamdani saris, herbal dyes. Finally, time has also dresses and furnishing materials influenced the designs. Keeping up (the fabric is now also being used for the modern demand, present day making curtains) is increased, weav- jamdani saris have on their ground ers will continue to suffer in terms of designs of rose, jasmine, lotus, trons. lower wages. Worse still, is that their bunches of bananas, bunches of gin- Presently, the Jamdani industry is children will not find it feasible to ger and sago. Recently, there is a struggling to survive in approxi- enter into a profession that pays so trend of embroidering Jamdanis or mately 150 villages of Rupganj, little in return. For those who prefer putting „‟paars‟‟ on saris. However, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj, under to follow the conventions, boutique many traditionalists are vehemently Dhaka district. Barely an hour and houses and big outlets in the country against this trend, claiming this is half drive from Dhaka, situated on have created a series of churidar destroying a tradition. the bank of the river Shitalakhya is kameezes, colourful punjabis, fotuas Muslin and Jamdani reached their the village Ruposhi -- popularly and saris by Jandani fabrics. pinnacle of excellence during the known as the Jamdani village. As A two millennia old heritage, with its Mughal period (16th to 19th cen- you enter the village, you come highly evolved aesthetics, faces ex- tury). In this period Jamdani was across weavers who are busy at the tinction unless it can be popularized used extensively in “angarakhans” or looms, creating -- probably the most and promoted across the world. attire for both women and men. At exquisite handloom weaves in the Jamdani is not just a heritage of the same time, the use of Jamdani world. Men, women and children of Bangladesh, it is truly a global artis- fabric was seen in women's dresses the village are all involved in some tic inheritance that needs to be pre- in Europe's capitals of fashion. From stage of the production process. served and promoted. the middle of the 19th century, there Most adult weavers work as long as was a gradual decline in the Jamdani 18 hours a day with breaks for NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK=V.36/N0.5/2012 3 The Jamdani style of cotton weaving belongs exclusively to Bengal. The elaborate and intricate designs of Bengal’s Jamdani have caught the attention of fashion lovers around the country and world. Once produced for the royal and noble family mem- bers, the Jamdani style of Bengal is basically cotton garments embroidered with gold and silver thread. The fabric is apparently lace like with subtle dreamy designs.

Recent Jamdani designs are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to originate in Persian and Mughal fusion thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite pain-staking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.The main peculiarity of Jamdani work is the geometric design. The expert weavers do not need to draw the design on paper, but instead work from memory. Jamdanis have different names according to their design (for instance, panna hajar, dubli lala, butidar, tersa, jalar, duria, charkona & many others). Present-day Jam- dani saris have on their ground designs of rose, Jasmine, lotus, bunches of bananas, bunches of gin- ger and sago. A Jamdani with small flowers only. There can be designs dani. Duria Jamdani has designs of flowers diapered on the fabric is with peacocks and leaves of creep- spots all over. Belwari jamdani with known as Butidar. If these flowers ers. If such designs cover the entire colorful golden borders used to be are arranged in reclined position it is field of the sari it is called jalar nak- made during the Mughal period, es- called tersa jamdani. It is not neces- sha. If the field is covered with rows pecially for the women of the inner sary that these designs are made of of flowers it is known as fulwar jam- court.

The Jamdani is basically an inlay technique on lightweight cotton fabrics. Different types of Jamdani include:

Daccai Jamdani – originally a Bangladeshi style of cotton weaving is now practiced in West Bengal also. The Daccai Jamdani sarees displays floral motifs and linear multicolored designs spread over the entire body of the saree. Shantipur Jamdani – belongs to the Shantipur region of Nadia District in West Bengal, the Shantipur Jam- dani sarees have excellent fine-grained texture. The softness of the fabrics is highly appreciated. Tangail Jamdani – originated in the Tangail region, the Tangail Jamdani sarees have traditional borders with lamp or Pradeep, lotus or Padma and fish scales or Aansh paar patterns. The warm colored sarees give empha- sis on the Anchals or the part of the saree, which goes over the shoulder. Dhonekhali Jamdani – this exceptional style has its origin in Dhonekhali in West Bengal. The whitish opaque surface of the Dhonekhali Jamdani saree is adorned with borders of contrasting colors in black, purple, red or any other dark colors. The Dhonekhali Jamdani sarees are hardier and have a longer life than the other variations.

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CAMBIANO of Pininfarina

Pininfarina, world famous master of industrial de- meant to be part of the tradition of successful spiders sign, developer of building techniques for car bodies and born from the relationship with Alfa Romeo, among the creator in Turin of Italian style in Architecture of the most significant and long-lasting ones in the automobile automobile. Paninfarina founded by the PaninFarinain history, and interprets the innovative vision of an antique 1930 as ''CarrozzeriaPinin Farina" after 26 years of theme strongly present in the Pininfarina roots, the 2- working in "Stabilimenti Farina". He is unquestioned seater spider. Today Pininfarinafocuses on industrial master of architectonic building techniques for automo- design services, continuing to play a key role as a de- biles, Pininfarina has a perfect knowledge of this technol- sign house and an innovative partner with unique skills, ogy and of automotive aerodynamics. Pininfarina has and on the field of sustainable mobility through the true and prestigious artistic talent, coupled with a crea- development and production of hybrid and electrical ve- tive imagination dedicated to innovation, to create mar- hicles (cars and buses), research into alternative compo- velously harmonious car bodies, pure in line, distinctive nents and materials, and aerodynamic shapes that can in decor. help to make vehicles lighter and reduce their consump- tion and emissions. The Company also concentrates on The Pininfarinanew concept 2uettottanta of 2010 is the creation of value for its brand.

The Italian Novelty

NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK=V.36/N0.5/2012 5 TATA PR1MA lined by the refined treatment of the pillar, The Tata Motors Limited stand hosts the an element that is typical of Pininfarina world première of the Tata Pr1ma (Italian styling and sportiness. for “First”), a styling model designed and built by Pininfarina for the Indian com- Based on the platform of the first Indian pany, first official project - hence its name saloon, the Tata Indigo, the Tata Pr1ma - of the Tata-Pininfarina cooperation in the designed by Pininfarina offers an indication fields of research, design and engineering. of how the next generation of Tata saloons It is a solution that immediately adds could be interpreted, with a distinctive, value, compared to the essential design usually associ- elegant design. Conceived to provide luxurious comfort, ated with the Tata brand. this 4-door model has a sober but very refined design, combined with sinuous lines that give the car the person- The Tata Pr1ma addresses a higher segment, and the ality of a coupe. external and internal measurements are larger than those of the Indigo, thanks to a longer wheelbase (2700 CAMBIANO: Turin, January 10 2012 – Pininfarina un- mm). The design balances fluidity and tension, which is veils the first official image of the new concept car, which visible in the lines that run from the front to the rear of will make its world debut on March 6th at the Geneva the car. The result is an elegant look, and proportions Motor Show. The novelty is an elegant and refined sport that are both classic and modern. sedan, conceived with great attention to the environ- The front view and the shape of the rear light clusters ment, both as to the engine and as to the materials‟ merge into the distinctive lines of the car‟s design, un- choice. CAMBIANO represents the summa of Pininfarina derlining its presence and dimensions. The roof stretches skills in terms of styling and engineering. And it is no towards the front, conveying a sense of power and force. coincidence that it was named after the city hosting the Each detail has been studied with care, not to decorate, headquarter of the Pininfarina Group, which in 2012 will but to underline the basic theme of the design and to celebrate a double anniversary: 30 years of the Styling raise the profile of the Tata logo. Centre, whose operations started in Cambiano in 1982 (at the beginning as “PininfarinaStudi e Ricerche/ The model‟s sleek silhouette conveys dynamism and a Pininfarina Study and Research”) – and 10 years of the strong temperament. The long wheelbase creates a gen- Engineering Centre, which was inaugurated in 2002, with erous amount of room inside, underlined by the uninter- the aim of adding to the styling and development/niche rupted profile of the doors, a clean, strong blend of the production activities, also the services of engineering for best ideas of Pininfarina design. Without limiting the third parties, offering avant-garde technological instru- space inside, the tapered rear end and inclined passen- ments as well as a first class specialists‟ team. ger compartment convey the feeling of a coupe, under-

6 NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK=V.36/N0.5/2012 Ekushe Boi Mela

Written by Ibrahim Ahmed

The Biggest Book Fair in Bangladesh

The month long Amar Ekushe Boi Mela (book fair) will end the last day of February. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina inaugurated the book fair and Bangla Academy Chairman Professor Anisuzzaman, Direc- tor General Shamsuzzaman Khan and representa- tives of civil society and political leaders were also present on the occasion. British Poet, Writer and Translator of Bengali Professor William Radice also present as special guest on the occasion. Thousands of book lovers, writers, and others assembled at the fair for the past 28 days. Publishers also cashed in from the crowd. All the people involved with the fair, what turned into rendezvous of book lovers and also a cultural fest, were seen packing up and visitors of different ages were buying the books of their choice. The Organizer: Bangla Academy The selling of Bangla Academy books has seen a sharp leap too; the academy sold the books worth Taka 78, 38,399 this year. The figure was Taka 72,83,053 in 2011, 68,01,685 in 2010 and 61,60,322 in 2009 respectively. A total of 137 books hit the fair on the day including eight story books, 18 novels, nine collections of articles, 33 books of poems, six research books, two rhyme books, three child literature, two science books, one religious book, 3 books on liberation war, 2 diction- aries, 2 books on humor and one autobiography. Statistics: The number of total books was 3013 in previous year, 3354 in 2010, 2741 in 2009. The number of total books this year is 3560, including 789 books of poetry, 529 novels, 387 story books, 255 articles. The turnover was over Tk 26 crore in 28 days, said Shahida Khatun, director (establishment, plan- ning and training division) of Bangla Academy, who read out the closing report to press. Last year's sales amounted to Tk 25 crore. Meanwhile, the number of new book arrivals was 3669, 656 more than that of the previous year. Topping the list were poetry books numbering 817 followed by novels, totaling to 563. A total 425 publishing houses and socio-cultural, non-government and media organi- sations took part in the fair.

NEWS&VIEWS + KINGSHUK=V.36/N0.5/2012 7

International Mother Language Day

International Governor general of Mother Language Pakistan, declared Day is an obser- that Urdu aShall be vance held annu- the state of Pakistan ally on 21 Febru- ( West and East ary worldwide to pro- Pakistan). The peo- mote awareness of lin- ple of East Pakistan guistic and cultural di- (now Bangladesh), versity and multilin- having mother lan- gualism. Its observance guage Bangla, was also formally rec- started to protest ognized by the United against this. On 21 Nations General As- February 1952, (8th sembly in its resolution Falgun 1358 in the establishing 2008 as Bangla calendar), t. the International Year The government in- of Languages. voked a limited cur- International Mother few to prevent this Language Day origi- and the protests nated as the interna- were tamed down tional recognition of so as to not break Language Movement the curfew. The Day, which has been Pakistani police fired commemorated in on the students de- Bangladesh (formerly spite these peaceful East Pakistan) since protests and a num- 1952, when a number of Dedicated citizen in- ber of students were killed. Four of them were cluding students , of the University of Dhaka Abdus Salam, Rafiq Uddin Ahmed, Abul Barkat were killed by the Pakistani police in Dhaka and Abdul Jabbar. Bangladesh and the whole during Bengali Language Movement protests. globe Celebrates the day with respect for the On 21 March 1948, Mohammed Ali Jinnah, the movement language.

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KINGSHUK’s Perception is a sister concern of KINGSHUK, a business English magazine publishing since 1973. KINGSHUK represented hundreds foreign books & maga- zines publishers as outsourcing expert in designing, distribution, publishing, printing, graphics and creative bindings. The creative studio taught some of the most astound- ing lessons to enlighten with colorful happiness, made courageous events which built confidences on graphics designing, interior & architectural designing, jewellery designing i.e. living and fashion. And gradually our perceptions about life changed, modified and grew up to the end of time - for last 38 years.

KINGSHUK’s Perception is the driving trade press creating global business opportu- nity with portfolio of trade information services through fashion magazine & publica- tions, event/exhibitions management, business designing, franchise, copyright, intelli- gence reporting and outsourcing. KINGSHUK is the think tank of "NEWS&VIEWS", online & print fortnightly bi-lingual news magazine from European cities. It also longing with "National eLibrary Project", "Green Humanist Party", "Bangladesh Franchise Asso- ciation" and the database of 600000 eBook titles with Bangla OCR.

KINGSHUK’s Perception learns from it's parent venture KINGSHUK, how natural venerate are source of life, color, variations and visualization. Perceptions of clothing characterize with the life and shade i.e expression of virtual color that‟s the sources of the supreme, best of the best. Fashion ability is poetic outburst of status, utility, comfort, personality which trailed by collective clarity of life & living.

We are colorful, evaluated, stylish, vibrant and superb in Graphics, Interior, Architecture, Fashion, Jewelers Clothing - Designing - Producing - Marketing

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Fatima Ahmed Chief Operating Officer