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Universidade De São Paulo Escola De Artes, Ciências E UNIVERSIDADE DE SÃO PAULO ESCOLA DE ARTES, CIÊNCIAS E HUMANIDADES PROGRAMA DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM TÊXTIL E MODA ANDREIA SCHMIDT PASSOS Cristóbal Balenciaga: maestro do tempo, arquiteto da feminilidade São Paulo 2017 ANDREIA SCHMIDT PASSOS Cristóbal Balenciaga: maestro do tempo, arquiteto da feminilidade Versão original Dissertação apresentada à Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades da Universidade de São Paulo para obtenção do título de Mestre em Ciências pelo Programa de Pós-graduação em Têxtil e Moda. Área de Concentração: Projeto de Têxtil e Moda Orientador: Prof. Dr. Waldenyr Caldas São Paulo 2017 Nome: PASSOS, Andreia Schmidt Título: Cristóbal Balenciaga: maestro do tempo, arquiteto da feminilidade Dissertação apresentada à Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades da Universidade de São Paulo para obtenção do título de Mestre em Ciências do Programa de Pós-Graduação em Têxtil e Moda. Área de Concentração: Projeto de Têxtil e Moda Aprovado em: ___ / ___ / _____ Banca Examinadora Prof. Dr. ____________________ Instituição: __________________ Julgamento: ____________________ Assinatura: __________________ Prof. Dr. ____________________ Instituição: __________________ Julgamento: ____________________ Assinatura: __________________ Prof. Dr. ____________________ Instituição: __________________ Julgamento: ____________________ Assinatura: _________________ À minha avó Esther, sempre uma inspiração. Agradecimentos Agradeço a todos que me apoiaram e incentivaram de alguma maneira a concretizar esse trabalho. Ao meu orientador Prof. Dr. Waldenyr Caldas, que aceitou meu projeto e compartilhou com generosidade seu conhecimento na construção dessa pesquisa, por sua paciência em me guiar e mostrar caminhos e por sua gentileza em acreditar nas minhas ideias e em me dar autonomia na busca dos meus objetivos. Aos meus pais, Mauro e Sílvia, por sempre acreditarem em mim. Ao meu irmão Eduardo, por inspirar minha trajetória acadêmica. Ao Diogo por ter me despertado para a possibilidade de cursar esse mestrado, e por todo o seu apoio, amor e companheirismo ao longo da nossa trajetória. Aos meus saudosos amigos de mestrado pela convivência e troca de experiências. Em especial, a Gabriela Camargo, Julia Nunes, Andressa Nóbrega, pela amizade e momentos compartilhados. A Priscila Rezende, pelas conversas e caminhos apontados. A Israel Tannus, pela amizade e por estar comigo até o final. E a todos aqueles que não estão aqui citados mas que estiveram presentes nessa empreitada. As minhas professoras Prof. Dra. Cláudia Garcia, Profa. Dra. Silvia Held, Prof. Dra. Suzana Avelar, cujas disciplinas ampliaram meu conhecimento, despertaram meu interesse e curiosidade e contribuíram para a minha pesquisa. Aos professores Prof. Dr. Victor Aquino e Prof. Dra. Suzana Avelar pelos apontamentos preciosos na banca de qualificação. Aos meus amigos e familiares que entenderam minhas ausências, incentivaram minha dedicação e tiveram paciência com a minhas angústias. Todos fazem parte dessa conquista. “C’est la vie d’un chien.” Cristóbal Balenciaga RESUMO PASSOS, Andreia Schmidt. Cristóbal Balenciaga: maestro do tempo, arquiteto da feminilidade. 2017. 217 f. Dissertação (Mestrado em Têxtil e Moda) – Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2017. Versão original. O presente trabalho aborda a trajetória do costureiro Cristóbal Balenciaga. Entendendo a relevância deste costureiro para a moda e os aspectos inovadores das suas criações, o objetivo desta pesquisa é investigar sua contribuição para a evolução da silhueta feminina na moda. Para isso, foi realizado um estudo sobre como as relações entre moda e modernidade criam aspectos imperativos que vão alçar a figura do costureiro ao topo da hierarquia da moda. Em seguida, também se discorre sobre as condições sociais e históricas que vão contribuir com a construção de uma feminilidade intimamente relacionada com a moda. Compreendendo como a trajetória e a obra de Cristóbal Balenciaga são articuladas com a teoria, estuda-se sua contribuição para a silhueta feminina por meio da análise de artigos de revista e jornal impressos do período entre os anos 1955 e 1967. Palavras-chave: Moda. Modernidade. Feminino. Alta-costura. Balenciaga. ABSTRACT PASSOS, Andreia Schmidt. Cristóbal Balenciaga: master of time, architect of femininity. 2017. 217 p. Dissertation (Master of Science) – School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, 2017. Type version. The present work describes the trajectory of the couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga. Understanding this couturier’s relevance to fashion and the innovative aspects of his creations, this research aims to explore his contribution for the development of the feminine silhouette in fashion. This study recognizes the relationship between fashion and modernity as an imperative trigger to the rising of the couturier’s figure to the top of fashion’s hierarchy. In addition, this research discusses the social and cultural conditions that have contributed to the construction of a specific kind of femininity that relates to fashion intimately. Comprehending how Cristóbal Balenciaga’s work and legacy articulates with the theory, this study investigates his contribution the feminine silhouette through analysis of printed magazine and newspaper in a period between 1955 and 1967. Keywords: Fashion. Modernity. Feminine. Couture. Balenciaga. LISTA DE FIGURAS Figura 1 – Vestido Infanta. Ilustração de Carl Erickson para Vogue de 15 de setembro de 1939 (esquerda). Foto de George Hoyningen-Huene para Harper’s Bazaar de 15 de setembro de 1939 (direita). ..................................................................................... 78 Figura 2 – Cristóbal Balenciaga em anúncio do seu perfume Dix ........................................... 85 Figura 3 – Ilustração de Carl Erickson para Vogue Inglesa, de novembro de 1948 ................ 88 Figura 4 – Vestido Babydoll. Desfile coleção de verão 1958. Foto Tom Kublin .................... 96 Figura 5 – Vestido Double ballon. Fotografia de Irving Penn para a Vogue América de 01 de setembro de 1950. ................................................................................................... 98 LISTA DE TABELAS Tabela 1 – linha do tempo 1955-1956 .................................................................................... 153 Tabela 2– linha do tempo 1957-1958 ..................................................................................... 154 Tabela 3– linha do tempo 1959-1960 ..................................................................................... 155 Tabela 4– linha do tempo 1961-1962 ..................................................................................... 156 Tabela 5– linha do tempo 1963-1964 ..................................................................................... 157 Tabela 6– linha do tempo 1965-1966 ..................................................................................... 158 Tabela 7– linha do tempo 1967 .............................................................................................. 159 SUMÁRIO 1 INTRODUÇÃO ................................................................................................................... 13 2 MODA E MODERNIDADE ............................................................................................... 19 2.1 DIÁLOGOS POSSÍVEIS ................................................................................................... 19 2.2 A MODA MARCA O TEMPO MODERNO ..................................................................... 23 2.3 NOVOS ESPAÇOS URBANOS: A MODA E A CIDADE .............................................. 26 2.3.1 Paris, capital da moda ................................................................................................... 30 2.4 ORGANIZAÇÃO DO TEMPO MODA ............................................................................ 33 2.4.1 O maestro do tempo ...................................................................................................... 36 3 MODELANDO O FEMININO .......................................................................................... 41 3.1 O CORPO VESTIDO DE MODERNIDADE .................................................................... 42 3.2 O CONSUMO COMO FUNÇÃO SOCIAL FEMININA .................................................. 46 3.3 O CORPO LIBERTADO ................................................................................................... 54 4 O COSTUREIRO DOS COSTUREIROS ......................................................................... 62 4.1 OS ANOS DE FORMAÇÃO ............................................................................................. 63 4.1.1 Da vila de pescadores para o mundo da alta-costura ................................................. 64 4.1.2 Aprendizado e consumo de luxo em San Sebastián .................................................... 68 4.1.3 Um couturier para a elite espanhola ............................................................................ 72 4.1.4 A Influência Espanhola ................................................................................................. 75 4.2 TRINTA ANOS EM PARIS .............................................................................................. 79 4.2.1 Existe mesmo um Balenciaga?...................................................................................... 81 4.2.2 Cultura comercial na Casa Balenciaga .......................................................................
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