Exhibition Checklist the Metropolitan Museum Of
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Exhibition Checklist ufanee The Metropolitan Museum of Art ufanee This exhibition has been made possible by Shiseido Cosmetics A checklist for the exhibition at the Costume Institute December 17, 1986, through September 6, 1987 Copyright ' 1987 by The Metropolitan Museum ol Art Published b\ The Metropolitan Museum ol Art John P. O'Neill, Editoi in Chiel Barbara Burn. Project Superviso) Michael Shroyer, Designei J o' r rc <rJ C oil t wit s Introduction 5 Entrance Galler} 6 Spanish Callen 7 1910s, 20s, 30s Gallerj 8 Waltz Galler) 11 Mimici Callen 13 Debutante Callen 15 Masquerade Callen 17 Vitrine 20 1960s Gallery 24 Credits 26 Introduction ance, the 1986-87 exhibition in the Costume Throughout the history of social dance, the DInstitute, is the fifteenth project guided by the imaginative masquerade has given participants the opportunity to vision of Diana Vreeland, Spedai Consultant for the diop their true identities—il only for a moment—and to Costume Institute. It has been our goal to evoke those vanish under somt disguise. In the seventh gallery we feelings of excitement and romance, of elegance and have sought to illustrate the most popular themes and femininity, associated with the grand occasions for images loi fancy chess halls: the oriental, the characters of social dancing that have spanned the centuries. Each eia Italian commedia dell'aite, the folk dress of various represented in the exhibition was replete with its own cultures, the impersonation ol historic characters, the etiquette, standard of feminine beauty, and music loi purely fantastic. This gal 1er) also contains in the vitrine dancing. many ol the special a< i essoi ¡es asso( iated with socTal As you enter the galleries, the procession of evening dancing. coats serves as a reminder of the elegance oí the occisión The eighth and final gallery contiasts \ i\ idly with in its entirety—from the dramatic entrance to the tmal those immediate!) preceding it by the stark comparison of dance. The coat is as important lor the whole eff« i as the the 1960s aesthetic with that of cai liei eras. Fully as dress underneath. The second gallery explores one of the- revolutionary as fashions and dances of the 1920s, those of major influences on the design of twentieth-centun the 1960s brought a new and different dynamic to the dresses for dancing: the ruffles and ornaments of the si K ial s( ene. Spanish flamenco tradition can he found again and again This checklist, which reproduces the label copy in the in the work of designers past and present. It is the aura of exhibition, M ts as a guide through the galleries and also vitality and passion associated with flamenco thai appeals provides the opportunity to thank the many donors—lx>th to designer and dancer alike. individual and organizational—who have made the The first three decades of the twentieth century saw a exhibition possible. Foremost of these is the Shiseido Co. revolution in fashion. Just before the tango swept Paris in Ltd.. whose most generous sponsorship oí Dance we 1912, the silhouette of women's clothing changed grateful!) a< knowledge. dramatically. Women no longer wanted clothing thai restricted movement, and in the third gallery are dresses Jean L. Druesedow worn to dance the new rhythms of music and society. Associate Cura tor-in-Charge By the late 1910s, the world seemed ready fot a return to the luxury and elegance it had of necessity forsaken during World War II, and in the spring of 1947 Christian Dior introduced his New Look. Women also seemed reach for a redefinition of femininity. The magnificent ballgowns of the 1950s are represented in the fourth gallery. As you wander across the dance floor notice the wonderful sweep of fabric and ornament reminiscent of earlier times, for in the fifth and sixth galleries you return to those earlier times, to the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries and then to the world of the second half of the nineteenth century. Strict systems of etiquette ruled the social occasion and organized the opportunities for young men and women to become acquainted. Entrance Gallery Red silk velvet evening coat Black wool evening coat trimmed embroidered with red-orange with white lace and silver-colored Black silk evening coat with chenille, rhinestones, and heads; metallic ribbon multicolored lamé fruit pattern trimmed with mink, cream-colored Worn by Mis. Caroline Schermerhom lace, and beaded tassels Asmi Wilson Designed by Poiret Label: Worth French, 1924-25 Anient an. ca. 1902-05 French. 1905-10 Gift of C. J. Vincente Mineiii. 1972 Gift of Mrs. Howard Crosby Brokaw. I960 Gift ol OIIIU Wilson and R. Thornton 1972.209..SO CI 60.42.1 Wilson, in memory ol theii mother, Mis. Caroline Schermerhom Astoi Wilson. 1919 CI 19.3.13 Black wool evening cape Yellow silk charmeuse evening coat Label: Saim Laurent, Rive Gauche, Paris lined with pale blue charmeuse and French, 1970 trimmed with gold-colored metallic Rose-colored silk faille and black silk Lent l>\ Valerian Stux-Rybar, New Yoik Guipere lace panels over blue-green velvet evening coat ornamented in an silk chiffon; black silk velvet collai oriental design with wool, silk, and gold-colored metallic thread, beads, Man's black wool and satin full Designed l>\ Paul l'onci French, 1912 colored stones, and gold leaf dress suit Pun hase, Irene I ewisohn Trust Gift, 1982 I .abel: Paquin Label: Gardner & Kreps, N.Y. 1982.350.2 French. 1912 American, 1934 Gift ol Mis. Edwin Stewart Wheeler. 1956 Gift ol Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin J. Lew. 1980 X56.2.1 1980.381 Orange silk evening coat, brocaded in gold, blue, and green; blue silk velvet collar trimmed with gold- Ramp right Ramp left colored metallic lace Label: Worth Black silk velvet evening cape with Salmon-pink silk velvet evening cape Fren« h, ca. 1910 phoenix design stenciled in gold and embroidered with gold-colored Gift of Mrs. Francis Coleman and silva metallic thread and sequins, beads; Mis Charles H. Filiali. Jr.. 1975 trimmed with bows and tassels, and 1975.383.1 Designed by Mane Gallenga Italian, early 1920s kolinsky fur Gift of Leafie Freda. 1980 Worn by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbill Gray silk satin and tulle evening coat 1980.96 French, 1903-04 embroidered with gold-colored Gift of Cornelius Vanderbill and metallic thread, beads, and sequins Mrs. Roben L, Stevens, 1953 Eggshell-colored silk evening coat CI 53.32.) Label: Worth embroidered with gold-colored French, 1910 metallic thread, beads, and sequins Gift of Cornelia Van Anken Chapín, 1953 Ivory satin evening coat, weft CI 53.60.2 Label: Coppola Design, Deitsch, Werbsa patterned with silver-colored metallic & Coppola American, 1917 thread, ornamented with black lace, Magenta cut and voided velvet cream-colored chenille applique, Gift of Deitsch, Werbsa & Coppola, Inc., 1917 evening coat CI 47.46 sequins, and beads, and trimmed with pleated ivory chiffon Label: Revi lion Frères, Paris. New York, London Quilted gold lamé evening coat French, ca. 1898 French, ca. 1917 Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Maxime L. Hermanos, Gift of Mrs. Robert S. Kilbome. 1958 Designed l>\ Alix 1962 CI 58.67.14 French. 1935 CI 62.44.2 Gift of Miss Ellerbe Wood, 1910 CI 40.172 Beige uncut silk velvet evening coat, gold lamé ground, trimmed with fox and gold-colored metallic Black silk velvet evening cape with passementerie, and lined with gold- matching gloves colored velvet Designed by Balenciaga French. 1948-49 Label: Doucet French, ca. 1910 Gift of Mrs. Byron C. Fov, 1956 CI 56.60.3abc Gift of Olivia Constable, 1974 1974.242.1 Quilted silver lamé and black satin Spanish Gallery (clockwise) Ecru embroidered cotton eyelet evening coat trimmed with fox "flamenco" dress Label: Jeanne Lanvin Woman's ivory wool "flamenco" Label: Salao. Sevilla French, 1936-37 suit: jacket trimmed with Spanish. 1980 Gift of Mrs. Leon I.. Roos. 1966 passementerie; matching pants Lent by Manuela Vargas, Madrid CI 66.58.1 Worn b\ Carmen Amava Label: Sanche/ Vargas, Madrid Black and pink silk satin evening Spanish. mid-20th century Black silk velvet evening coat dress Lent by Instituí del Team- de la Diputa« io ili Label: An original design by Charles James, Ban clona. Musen de les Ails de L'EspectacIe Label: Cal lot Soeurs. Pans Lord &• Taylor. Fifth Avenue French, early 1930s American. 1956 Gift of Mrs. Russell W. Davenport, 1963 Gift of Lord fc Taylor, 1957 Man's red and black "flamenco" a 63.2.2 CI 57.27 costume: red velveteen jacket and vest trimmed with black velvet and passementerie; white cotton batiste Black wool and brown tulle evening Rose-colored ribbed silk evening coat shirt trimmed with eyelet lace and dress The silhouette of this coal has become known rhinestone buttons; black wool pants: Libel: Eisa as "Kabuki." Worn by Pauline de Rotbs< hild nav) wool cape embroidered with Designed by Baleni iaga Designed b\ Baleni iaga French, 1952 French, 1954-55 floral pattern, trimmed with black Gift ol Mis T. Wynyard Pasley, 1978 Gift of Baroness Philippe de Rothschild, 1973 cord, and lined with red velveteen; 1978.71 1973.21.3 black felt hat trimmed with grosgrain ribbon Woman's red velveteen evening Black silk velvet evening cape Spanish, mid-20ib century bolero jacket appliquéd with black embroidered with gold-colored Lent by Amonio Rui/. Madrid velvet and trimmed with black silk sequins, beads, metallic thread, and passementerie and jet embroiderv amber stones White cotton organdy evening dress Label: Balenciaga. 10avenue George V, Paiis Worn bv I.ad\ Menili (Elsie ile Wolfe) trimmed with black cotton piping; French, fall 1946-47 Designed by Elsa Schiaparelli yellow silk satin belt lit udì.