Climbing Notes 1996 Season North Cascades National Park/Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest

information. Staff conduct backcountry patrols to Summer of'95: ensure they are knowledgeable in conditions, and climbing and wilderness rangers rotate into the Safest in Recent Years Center during periods of highest climber A decline in serious mountaineering accidents visitation. The Center maintains a logbook of at North Cascades National Park continued in route conditions, and a variety of displays related to climbing safety. 1995. This was the fourth consecutive year no climbing related fatalities occurred. Of the 36 Rangers do not certify group competency. Nor search and rescue operations, only one involved is anyone refused backcountry permits because of a serious climber injury. deficiencies in equipment or ability. Risk is Here are summaries of the two most recognized as a legitimate component of the significant climbing related incidents, followed by wilderness experience. Our goal is not to eliminate risk, but to help climbers make a comparative analysis. informed decisions as to their desired level of exposure. July 20-25, Icy Peak: Lost climbers Two moderately experienced mountaineers The number of permits issued for areas completed a Voluntary Climber Register at the containing popular routes with objective hazards, Glacier Public Service Center, stating an intent to such as Boston Basin and the West Ridge of ascend Icy Peak from the Nooksack Cirque, Forbidden, is controlled by regulations. traverse to Ruth Mountain, and return home the Summer staff includes two climbing rangers. evening of July 21. A search was initiated when These rangers monitor route conditions, and they failed to return. On July 25 they were contact climbers to stress preparedness, accident located uninjured on the northeast flank of Icy prevention, and minimum impact practices. Peak. The climbers stated they became not prepared to safely navigate the hazards facing Optional registration is another program disoriented while ascending Icy Peak in whiteout them. The Icy Peak party did not compromise component. See "Banner Year for Voluntary conditions. They carried map and compass but safety, even though this meant days of hunger and Climber Register" article for more on this system. were unable to identify landmarks because of poor discomfort. The Colonial Peak party pushed on. The decline in accidents in recent years, visibility. They made daily attempts to descend The Icy Peak party survived without injury; the combined with the success of individual program the mountain but quit each effort because of Colonial Peak party suffered a life-threatening components such as the Voluntary Climber hazards. injury. The injured climber recommends "in Register, reflects the climbing community's addition to ice axe and helmet, always carry commitment to the program's philosophy "Our Concern, Your Responsibility". July 31, Colonial Peak: Unroped climber fall crampons and rope". on rock A pair of alpinists wandered onto technical terrain while climbing Colonial Peak by the Climbing Safety standard West Ridge route. They had ice axes, Eldorado Restoration but not crampons or rope. In attempting to Program Succeeding ascend a cliff, one member lost her hold on wet, The recent decrease in climbing accidents Plan Finalized loose rock. She fell about 50 feet, and was saved reflects well on the park's climbing safety Last year North Cascades National Park from a much longer fall by bouncing into a program. This program was expanded to the assessed the extent of impacts along the climbers berschrund. The climber suffered a severe ankle current level after the 1991 season. That year, 19 route up Eldorado Creek. The route has fracture. A difficult rescue operation culminated significant incidents resulted in three climbing developed into a boot path, with over 1,300 feet of tread suffering erosion. A heavily impacted when the victim was winched aboard a hovering fatalities and nine injuries. The following winter camping area at the upper end has become known Navy helicopter as darkness and clouds enveloped rangers, deputies, climbers, and Mountain Rescue as "Hammered Ridge". the mountain. The victim was moderately Association (MRA) members met and identified experienced. Her partner was a novice. actions to strengthen existing preventive efforts. The resulting environmental assessment was This publication was one result of that distributed for public review last fall. Responses supported the park's preferred alternative. This A Comparative Analysis meeting. Today the program includes information alternative has now been formally selected, with The circumstances leading to these incidents sharing, regulations, ranger patrols, and a work scheduled to begin this summer. are similar, but the outcomes are different. Both voluntary registration system. parties wandered into terrain of greater difficulty The Wilderness Center in Marblemount serves than anticipated. Both parties realized they were as the clearinghouse for climbing related Continued on page 2 Eldorado Plan continued Mt. Baker Accidents The route has three major sections. The In the past two years four people in three Briefly ... lower section travels through forest. The separate incidents have been rescued from a middle portion ascends a talus field. The upper bergschrund at the 5400' elevation on the Award section climbs wet slopes covered with Coleman climbing route. The site is west of Bellingham resident Sylvia Thorpe was subalpine vegetation. The worst 1,000 feet of the Hogsback, and is frequented by both recognized as a "Wilderness Champion" for the upper section will be rehabilitated. Rutted climbers and hikers. All the individuals slid her long support toward the park's impact segments will be filled, erosion stopped, and into the hole while descending, sustained restoration program. vegetation planted. Minimal brushing, some serious injury, and required helicopter grubbing, and placement of cairns will evacuation. The following recommendations encourage climbers to use a detour more Compost Toilets Upgraded reflect the factors which caused these Six of the park's 15 backcountry human resilient to foot travel. Much of the field work accidents: will be done with volunteer help from the waste composter bins were replaced last * Glissade only on slopes where you can see Mountaineers Club and individuals. year. Composter locations frequented by the full runout, climbers include Boston Basin, Cascade The combined nightly quota for the adjacent * Rope up for all glacier travel, Pass, Sahale Glacier, and Thornton Lakes. Inspiration Glacier, Eldorado Basin, and * Conditions change daily; use good Eldorado Glacier crosscountry zones will be judgement in route selection, Glaciers Shrinking reduced from 214 people, to 72 people. At * Climb within your ability and knowledge. current use levels, this restriction is expected to For the past three years the park has only inconvenience 1-2 groups per year. While measured the mass balance of four glaciers: this lower quota won't eliminate current the Noisy, Silver, Sandalee, and North problems, it should low additional impacts. LNT Lessens Reg's Klawatti. The measurements show an overall loss of volume, although Silver and Sandalee All persons receiving permits for the area Leave No Trace (LNT) is a national slightly gained in mass in 1995. will be given specific information concerning the educational program designed to promote rehabilitation efforts and be asked to support the responsible use of recreational lands to the SAR Costs work by practicing Leave No Trace (LNT) people who enjoy them. The LNT message is The park spent $20,586 on SAR incidents in techniques. Ranger patrols will be increased to coordinated by Leave No Trace, Inc., a non 1995. This doesn't include costs borne by enhance these education efforts. profit organization that unites four federal the military, lifeflight helicopters, sheriff Contact the Wilderness Center for more agencies - the National Park Service, U.S. departments, and MRA teams. information on this project or if you'd like to Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, assist with the field work. and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service - with manufacturers, outdoor retailers, user groups, Vehicle Prowls Down educators, and individuals sharing a commitment Only one vehicle larceny was reported in +SafeTips+ to maintain and protect public lands for future 1995. Lessen your risk by not storing enjoyment. valuables in the car and leaving glove boxes A review of park mountaineering accidents and other containers open. since 1990 offers the following insights: The six Leave No Trace principles are: * Many rescues involve leg injuries caused Plan ahead and prepare by slipping on non-technical terrain. Camp and travel on durable surfaces Wilderness Trip Planner Published * Constantly track your location using Pack It In, pack It out This free brochure is packed with helpful compass, map, and altimeter. Properly dispose of what you can't pack out hints for planning a backcountry trip in the * Don't place yourself in jeopardy. Turn Leave what you find park. Available at ranger stations. around, detour, or wait for rescue. Minimize use and Impact of fires * A helmet saved one life. Wide practice of LNT skills minimizes the * The lack of crampons and rope need for regulations and restrictions. To learn contributed to one serious injury. more about these skills, ask for LNT literature at * Voluntary Climber Register information the Wilderness Center and other ranger stations. is valuable for SAR responses. Help Wanted Heading into a remote area of the park? The Wilderness is inventorying crosscountry Banner Year for Voluntary Climber Register impacts and can use your help. Impacts are any evidence of human use, including bivy The Voluntary Climber Register is one component of the park's Climbing Safety program. This sites, boot paths, and summit registers. The register gives climbers the option of providing rangers detailed information regarding trip plans and inventory will serve as a baseline to measure equipment. Completion of the register does not guarantee an emergency response, but the the effects of recreational use on wilderness information is very useful should a search be initiated. In recent years information obtained from values, prioritize restoration projects, and the register probably saved one life and aided in the prompt resolution of other incidents. assist the park make informed management Persons choosing to complete the register promise to avoid unnecessary search efforts by decisions. checking-in promptly upon climb completion. In 1995, only nine of the 779 climbing parties You can help by documenting impacts participating in the program caused needless search efforts by failing to check-in. Continue this observed on your climb. To participate, stop success. If you choose to participate, provide complete and accurate information and don't forget by the Wilderness Center in Marblemount to check-in at a ranger station on the way home. prior to your trip to obtain forms with The program is available to climbers visiting both the park and the national forest. Registers instructions. The forms are easy to complete, are located at the Wilderness Center in Marblemount, the USFS/NPS offices on State Route 20 in and require only a few minutes at each impact. Sedro-Woolley, and at the USFS Public Service Center in Glacier. During business hours the When you return completed forms you will be registers are kept at the front desk. They are posted outside at night. asked to identify impact locations on a map.