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DINING A Fresh Blue Point oysters are shucked once a month. For All Seasons DJ’s Clam Shack keeps it fresh all winter long

BY STEVE MOSCO brave the cold, diminishing returns and remain [email protected] open. One local eatery keeping their lines in the water during the so-called down season is DJ’s o one knows for sure how it hap- Clam Shack in Wantagh—an oasis of fresh seafood pened or who did it, but somewhere making a strong case that this cuisine should be Blackened Mahi Mahi taco along the way it was decided that enjoyed all year round. seafood is strictly summertime eats. Deep diving into and Southern- have created a family atmosphere on Sunrise Across the south and north shores style seafood, DJ’s slings rolls, fried , Highway. Sit in the restaurant for no less than five ofN Long Island, restaurants that specialize in ocean crab cakes, fish tacos and much more. And even minutes and you’ll witness customers enthusi- fare either close for the gray winter season or beyond the food, owner Paul Riggio and his team astically greet Riggio and his team as if they were longtime friends. “The town is just fantastic to us,” said Wall Street escapee Riggio in the diminutive, laid-back eatery. DJs Clam Shack owner Paul Riggio (center) with his crew. “We have a neighborhood vibe and we look to treat people right the first time they come in.” And when they come in, customers are greeted with an immediate whiff from the up-front grill, The luscious, warm and where manager Anthony Gentile can be found buttery . The cold lobster roll, butter-grilling split-top buns and dropping conch dressed with mayo. fritters into the deep fryer. When asked what the must-eat items are at DJ’s, Riggio and Gentile don’t hesitate even for a second—it’s the lobster roll. Using the tenderest chunks of lobster—specifically, knuckle and claw meat—the lobster rolls are served two ways: the cold, mayo-based New England style, and the warm, butter-forward, Connecticut-style. The cold roll can be ordered light or heavy on the mayo, which is delightfully seasoned with tarragon and finished with celery. And while both incarnations put that signature lobster lusciousness fully on display, it is the opinion of this writer that DJ’s warm, buttered lobster roll is nothing short of the food version of a religious experience. Butter and lobster are best friends, and adding the flat-top grilled toasty roll to the equation elicits groans of eater’s pleasure immediately upon the first Grilled garlic shrimp scampi roll bite. Using the knuckle and claw in the roll is an ingenious maneuver, as that meat far basis, like the lobster bisque, a smokier-than-usual like fish fingers, shrimp, clam strips and the south- surpasses the highly regarded tail portion version that is a superb antidote to the cold chill ern-in-origin conch fritters, which are seldom seen in the aforementioned tenderness, but also Deep-fried outside. on Long Island menus. The fritters are fried balls of in sweetness and overall flavor. conch fritters Other basket favorites at DJ’s include baked doughy loveliness, dotted with peppers and conch. Another highly recommended dish is the clams, kung pow calamari, shrimp scampi, Ipswich Great for dipping, the conch fritters come with a garlic-steamed Little Neck clams. Featured on fried clams and a split grilled hot dog for land- key lime honey mustard and a smoky little number Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives when lubbers. Then there’s the tacos, which range from dubbed “Cowboy Sauce.” the show visited DJ’s original location in Key Mahi Mahi to shrimp and chicken and roast pork. Specials also abound at DJ’s and range from fresh West, FL, the clams are steamed in a skillet with All items can be grilled, blackened or fried, but seafood marinara over linguine to locally caught plenty of garlic, celery and surprisingly comple- the cooks highly recommended the Mahi Mahi in flounder. Meanwhile, the first Wednesday of every mentary jalapeños and served with garlic bread the blackened fashion. Dipped in melted butter month is a party at DJs, with live music and fresh that absolutely screams to be dipped into the juice and dredged in a blend of herbs and spices, the shucking of Maris Stella Blue Point oysters. pooled at the bottom of the dish. Clams also star in blackened Mahi Mahi taco packs some spicy heat It might be cold outside, but it’s an endless DJ’s creamy New England clam , a down- thanks to Cajun mayo, but it is mellowed out nicely summer at DJs. right luxuriously silky soup loaded with perfectly Garlic-steamed by pickled onions and cooling cabbage. DJ’s Clam Shack, 3255 Sunrise Hwy., Wantagh, sized middle necks. Other soups are on a rotating Little Neck Clams As for fried fare, DJ’s drops plenty into the fryer, 516-900-1400, www.djsclamshackwantagh.com.