TOURING PACIFIC CULTURES TOURING PACIFIC CULTURES EDITED BY KALISSA ALEXEYEFF AND JOHN TAYLOR Published by ANU Press The Australian National University Acton ACT 2601, Australia Email: [email protected] This title is also available online at press.anu.edu.au National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Creator: Alexeyeff, Kalissa, author. Title: Touring Pacific cultures / Kalissa Alexeyeff and John Taylor. ISBN: 9781921862441 (paperback) 9781922144263 (ebook) Subjects: Culture and tourism--Oceania. Tourism--Oceania. Cultural industries--Oceania. Arts--Oceania--History. Oceania--Cultural policy. Other Creators/Contributors: Taylor, John, 1969- author. Dewey Number: 338.47910995 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. Cover design and layout by ANU Press. Cover image adapted from Culture for Sale, 2014. Still from video installation by Yuki Kihara. Photography by Rebecca Stewart. This edition © 2016 ANU Press Contents List of Illustrations . ix Acknowledgements . xvii Notes on Images and Orthography . .. xix 1 . Departures and Arrivals in Touring Pacific Cultures . 1 John Taylor and Kalissa Alexeyeff 2 . Hawai‘i: Prelude to a Journey . 29 Selina Tusitala Marsh 3 . Darkness and Light in Black and White: Travelling Mission Imagery from the New Hebrides . 33 Lamont Lindstrom 4 . Tourism . 59 William C . Clarke 5 . The Cruise Ship . 61 Frances Steel 6 . Pitcairn and the Bounty Story . 73 Maria Amoamo 7 . Guys like Gauguin . 89 Selina Tusitala Marsh 8 . Statued (stat you?) Traditions . 91 Selina Tusitala Marsh 9 . Detouring Kwajalein: At Home Between Coral and Concrete in the Marshall Islands . 97 Greg Dvorak 10 . Yuki Kihara’s Culture for Sale and the History of Pacific Cultural Performance . 141 Mandy Treagus 11 . Native Realities in an Imaginary World: Contemporary Kanaka Maoli Art at Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa . 167 A . Marata Tamaira 12 . Moving Towers: Worlding the Spectacle of Masculinities Between South Pentecost and Munich . 183 Margaret Jolly 13 . Writing Home on the Pari and Touring in Pacific Studies . 227 Jo Diamond 14 . Performing Indigenous Sovereignties across the Pacific . 245 Peter Phipps 15 . New Pacific Portraits: Voices from the 11th Festival of Pacific Arts . 267 Curated by Katerina Teaiwa and Joseph Vile 16 . Great Works . .. 291 Courtney Sina Meredith 17 . Ibu & Tufuga . 297 Courtney Sina Meredith 18 . Cross-currents: Teana and Moenau, Tahitian Tourists in Seattle . 299 Miriam Kahn, Teana Gooding and Moenau Holman 19 . Carnet de Voyage en Irlande . .313 Flora Aurima-Devatine 20 . A Trip from Port Moresby to Suva . .. 317 Bomai D . Witne 21 . Performing Cannibalism in the South Seas . 323 Tracey Banivanua Mar 22 . Touring ‘Real Life’? Authenticity and Village-based Tourism in the Trobriand Islands of Papua New Guinea . 333 Michelle MacCarthy 23 . Suva, November ’97 . .359 Anita Jowitt 24 . Pikinini in Paradise: Photography, Souvenirs and the ‘Child Native’ in Tourism . 361 John Taylor 25 . Bandit Singsing: The Tourism Unexperience . 379 John Cox 26 . The Friendly Islands? Tonga’s Ambivalent Relationship with Tourism . .. 393 Helen Lee 27 . Re-purposing Paradise: Tourism, Image and Affect . 403 Kalissa Alexeyeff 28 . Local Tourist on a Bus Ride Home . 423 Audrey Brown-Pereira 29 . Mixed Bag of Tropical Sweets Sitting Outside the Hotel R & R . 425 Audrey Brown-Pereira 30 . Fiji: Reflections in the Infinity Pool . 427 John Connell 31 . Afterword: Ambivalence, Ambiguity and the ‘Wicked Problem’ of Pacific Tourist Studies . 439 Jane C . Desmond Contributors . 451 List of Illustrations Figures 1 and 2. Reclining dusky maidens provide a tranquil frame for the romance of travel for leisure, and through the important inclusion of tourism technology and infrastructure, fantasy meets reality through the prospect of touring .............7 Figure 3. Images of childlike fun speak to touristic fantasies of escape from mundane life while also echoing primitivist tropes of native innocence and spontaneity ...............9 Figure 4. A long-standing favourite—images of ultra-modern cruise ships looming over ‘stone age’, ‘primitive’ or ‘traditional’ outriggers remain a key signifier of tourism’s magical powers of transportation, such that suggest journeys through time as well as space. .11 Figure 5. Typifying the nexus of tourism and contemporary colonialism, Queen Elizabeth II is given an elevated royal welcome as she arrives on Rarotonga by British Airways to officiate at the grand opening of the Rarotonga International Airport, 1974 .....................................12 Figure 6. This example of touristic material culture and imagery can be read as being equally if not more reflective of class- related labour mobility within the context of colonialism than tourism per se .................................13 Figure 7. Stealing sheets and blankets! ......................34 Figure 8. Stealing the bedclothes ..........................35 Figure 9. John G. Paton lapel pin ..........................37 Figure 10. Magic lantern slide, Erromanga New Hebrides (Uhuvili and his child) ..............................40 Figure 11. John Paton, as postcard .........................41 ix TOURING PACIFIC CulturES Figure 12. Paton in white ................................43 Figure 13. Light and dark ................................43 Figure 14. The missionary’s ‘gun’ ..........................44 Figure 15. Bible vs rifle ..................................45 Figure 16. Heathen darkness, before ........................46 Figure 17. Christian light, after ...........................46 Figure 18. School supplants kava houses ....................47 Figure 19. Heathen and Christian ..........................48 Figure 20. Old men and their broken gods ...................50 Figure 21. The order of the bath ...........................51 Figure 22. The new Christian family ........................52 Figure 23. Dayspring’s island crew .........................53 Figure 24. ‘English Méké’, Wairarapa, June 1884 .............64 Figure 25. Burning the Bounty ............................75 Figure 26. Christian’s Cave ...............................77 Figures 27 and 28. Pitcairn Island .........................78 Figure 29. Pitcairn longboat ..............................79 Figure 30. Pitcairn crafts ................................81 Figure 31. Cruise ship passengers arrive at Bounty Bay .........83 Figure 32. Cover image from the orientation materials my parents received in 1975. 100 Figure 33. With my father and mother on Kwajalein, 1976 ......102 Map 1. Kwajalein Atoll. Kwajalein is the southernmost islet of Kwajalein Atoll, shown here in the lower-left inset. 103 Figure 34. Aerial photo of Kwajalein Atoll ..................107 Figure 35. Neitari Pound in 1978 on Kwajalein ...............109 Figure 36. Kwajalein Missile Monument in 1977 ..............111 Figure 37. ‘Places to Go and Things to Do on Kwajalein’. 113 Figure 38. ‘Safety Note’ ................................115 x LIST OF Illustrations Figure 39. Operation Homecoming in 1982 ..................119 Figure 40. Postcard of Jaluit Atoll, Nanyō Guntō Mandated Islands of Japan, pandanus trees and Islanders, cancelled with Jaluit Post Office stamp, c. 1935. .123 Figure 41. Nanyō Meguri Sugoroku board game ...............124 Figure 42. Satake Esu visiting Kwajalein Japanese Cemetery in 2005. 127 Figure 43. Offerings from bereaved families at the Japanese War Dead Memorial in 2005, Kwajalein ................129 Figure 44. Japanese and Korean military construction corps workers building the base at Kwajalein, 1944. .130 Figures 45 and 46. The special place .......................134 Figure 47. Performer. Ali Korey Vaifale. Culture for Sale. City Gallery, Wellington, 21 February 2014 .............142 Figure 48. Performer. Ali Korey Vaifale. Culture for Sale. City Gallery, Wellington, 21 February 2014 .............143 Figure 49. Photographs of men from the Samoan Village taken at the Columbian Exhibition, Chicago, 1893 ........158 Figure 50. Photograph of women from the Samoan Village taken at the Columbian Exhibition, Chicago, 1893 ........158 Figure 51. ‘Samoan Belles’. Mid-Winter Fair, San Francisco, 1894 ..161 Figure 52. ‘Samoan Girls Polonga and Olonga’. Mid-Winter Fair, San Francisco, 1894 ...............................161 Figure 53. Exterior view of Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa with the lo‘i kalo in the foreground ...................171 Figure 54. Untitled bas-relief based on a chant composed by Doug Tolentino in honour of the O‘ahu chief Kākuhihewa, by Carl F.K. Pao, 2011 ...................172 Figure 55. Untitled bas-relief based on the story of the demi-god Maui, by Harinani Orme, 2011. 173 Figure 56. Kapa prints representing the goddess Hina, by Dalani Tanahy, 2011 ............................175 Figure 57. Makahiki mural, by Solomon Enos, 2011 ...........178 xi TOURING PACIFIC CulturES Figure 58. Betu Watas, Tolak Telkon, and Mathias Watskon building the one-quarter-size model of a land-diving tower in front of the State Museum for Ethnography in Munich, June 2009. 184 Figure 59. UrSprung brochure ...........................184 Figure 60. The caravan behind the museum in Munich ........186 Figure 61. Kava preparation .............................187 Figure 62. Lunch at the beer hall .........................188 Map 2. Vanuatu and inset in relation to Australia .............192