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Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press The Bread Machine and the Art of Baking You’ll be surprised what this mixer, kneader, proofer, and oven can do BY MARCY GOLDMAN ’m a baker. So when bread machines grandmother’s farm loaf, it happens to bread, supported by the vertical bread Ihit the market several years ago, I was taste rather good, and it’s as nutritious as pan and the gases within the dough, amused. Almost all bakers I know are you care to make it. In these hectic times, bakes to completion. All you have to do dedicated to a hands-on approach. What the reward of accepting innovation, is open the lid of the bread machine and attraction could a machine have when however countercraftsman it may seem, lift out the bread pan containing a hot, all you do is dump ingredients into a box is to experience homemade, hot, fresh golden loaf. You can have bread three to and wake up in the morning to a tall, bread whenever you want it. four hours from starting the machine, or mushroom-shaped loaf? I thought bread use the timer so that the bread is ready machines might follow in the path of fon- WHAT EXACTLY IS A when you wake up in the morning. due pots and electric peeling wands. BREAD MACHINE? Throughout the process, you’re free But I was curious, too, and decided A bread machine in its simplest form is to look inside and poke and pinch the to give bread machines a try—if only to an impressive combination of comput- dough to make sure the texture is right— keep current, I told myself. As I evalu- er, mixer, dough kneader, proofing box, just keep your fingers clear of the knead- ated a number of brands, I quickly dis- miniature oven, and digital alarm ing blade when it’s moving. While it’s covered that home-style loaves, once a clock. It’s somewhat larger than a mixing and kneading, you can make weekend project, were literally child’s breadbox, most often a white molded slight adjustments to the dough by add- play in a bread machine. By winter, I was unit that houses a vertical bread pan ing a touch more flour or water. putting on a great pot of soup and tim- where all the magic takes place. Inside ing the bread machine to produce a the bread pan is a kneading blade, IS MACHINE BREAD GOOD? mouthwatering loaf just about the same which works like the dough hook of a Baked vertically, the straight-sided, tall time the soup was done and my sons’ stationary mixer. You literally plunk in- “machine” bread is perfect for brown- school bus turned the corner. gredients into the pan in a prescribed bagging, morning toast, and open-faced And I didn’t stop with just bread order. For most machines, liquids go in treats. Aside from a domed top, these from “the box.” I could make the ma- first, followed by flour, with the yeast loaves look much like any long loaf of chine work for me to mix, knead, and sprinkled on top. These ingredients are bread you might buy. The crusts are gen- proof doughs for breads that required incorporated by the blade into a shaggy erally crisp but tender, and the inside tex- more of an artisan’s touch. March mass, which eventually forms a ball of ture is notably light and feathery. brought warm batches of spicy hot cross dough that’s pummeled against the buns and staying rounds of Irish potato sides and bottom of the pan until prop- A NEAT AND EFFICIENT bread. Meanwhile, baking friends erly kneaded. KNEADER AND PROOFER would remark that I had sold out as a Timed by electronics, the kneading If you want crunchier crusts, more hearty baker, to which I would respond, “But blade then stops and lets the dough rest or varied textures, or different shapes when was the last time you actually and rise (proof). Then one or two brisk of bread, then consider using the bread made bread at home?” revolutions of this industrious blade machine to produce proofed dough that While machine-mixed and -baked knocks the dough down again to rise for you handle and bake traditionally. Most bread is a quantum leap from your great- a final time. During these first stages, the bread machines have a “dough program,” machine’s cavity is heated slightly to cre- in which dough is mixed, kneaded, and Bread machines make more than just sandwich ate a moist, warm haven for proofing the allowed to rise in its humid and warm loaves. They’re also great for kneading and proof- dough. As the dough comes to the end home. A beeper signals that the dough ing dough for breads like chewy breadsticks of its final rise, an electric coil in the ma- program is completed. You can then (above left), zataar-topped flatbread (bottom), chine’s interior heats up to an appropri- shape the proofed dough by hand into Photo opposite: Sloan Howard and a triple-hump loaf (at right). ate temperature for baking. The risen rolls, loaves, breadsticks, or any form you FEBRUARY/MARCH 1995 61 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press Let the machine do the mixing, and then remove This hearty, crusty French country loaf started in a bread machine. Even doughs made with a yeasty the dough to make hand-shaped bread or pizza. “sponge” can be mixed, kneaded, and proofed in the machine. wish and bake it in the oven (see the where I just don’t need to prepare each BREAD MACHINES DEMAND recipes on pp. 63–64). and every dough by hand. CAREFUL MEASUREMENTS How does making dough in a bread Good incubator for sponges, too. Bread machines are quite exceptional, machine differ from using a stationary Most recently, my machine has become but they’re unforgiving of cavalier meas- mixer with a dough hook? First, the the cradle for bubbling sponge starters uring. You must remember to measure bread machine is an enclosed container, that get turned into crusty French coun- accurately and to add ingredients in the so a floury, messy kitchen is never a de- try loaves (see photo above and recipe at order the manufacturer stipulates. If you terrent to an afternoon’s baking. Second, right). I mix a slurry of flour, water, and add too much yeast to a bread dough a bread machine is the perfect proofer for yeast and let it sit and froth overnight in baked in a regular oven, you’ll get a doughs—warm, moist, and draft-free. the bread machine, cover down. This slightly higher and yeastier-tasting No, I won’t abandon hand-kneading creates a sponge that will give the fin- bread—not terrific, but acceptable. This doughs, nor will I chuck my adored sta- ished bread a more robust character, with type of error in a bread machine, how- tionary mixer, which does larger batches a chewier texture and a crunchier crust. ever, can result in the dough rising and of dough. But when making bagels or The next day, I add more flour and yeast collapsing as it collides with the lid of the rolls that take a lot of handling, getting a and let the machine knead the dough unit, or fusing itself to the lid as it bakes. head start by having the dough made for and give it a short rise. Then I take it out Too much sugar or fat can also cause a you is a boon. Dough for pizza, focaccia, of the machine and let it rise more slow- loaf to cave in. However, used properly, breadsticks, and hard rolls emerges reg- ly on the counter or in the refrigerator. I and with some experience, you can easily ularly from my bread machine. I’ve shape it by hand and give it a brisk, hot turn out a wide range of tasty loaves with reached a point in my baking career bake in a steamy oven. a bread machine. WHAT HAPPENS INSIDE 123 All the ingredients go in at once. Liquids, flour, A whirling blade mixes and kneads the dough. Dough rises in its warm and humid home. The and yeast go into the bread pan in the order spec- The blade spins around on the bottom of the bread machine heats up slightly so there’s no need to ified by the manufacturer. pan, kneading the dough to develop gluten. search for a warm spot for the dough to rise. Photos: this page, Martha Holmberg; opposite, Robert Marsala. 62 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press FRENCH COUNTRY BREAD The combined effort of bread machine and time make a loaf with a robust flavor and a crust that is at once crusty and chewy. Makes one loaf. FOR THE SPONGE: 2⁄3 cup warm (105 to 115°F) water 1⁄2 tsp. active dry yeast 31⁄2 oz. (3⁄4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. whole-wheat flour 1 tsp. rye flour FOR THE BREAD: 3⁄4 cup water 11⁄4 tsp. salt 1 Tbs. honey 1 tsp. active dry yeast 13 to 15 oz. (3 to 31⁄2 cups) unbleached bread flour Breadsticks are a snap when you make the dough in a bread machine. Roll out the dough and coat it with Cornmeal or semolina for baking a flavorful topping like Parmesan cheese and caraway seeds (above) or zataar spice mix (recipe on p. 64). Cut Flour or bran flakes for finishing (optional) the dough into strips with a pizza cutter, fold each strip in half, and give it a couple of twists before baking.

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