VIEWING WINDOW Usually Turn out Loaves with Medium- 2 Tsp

BY MARCY GOLDMAN

’m a baker. So when bread machines grandmother’s farm loaf, it happens to bread, supported by the vertical bread Ihit the market several years ago, I was taste rather good, and it’s as nutritious as pan and the gases within the dough, amused. Almost all bakers I know are you care to make it. In these hectic times, bakes to completion. All you have to do dedicated to a hands-on approach. What the reward of accepting innovation, is open the lid of the bread machine and attraction could a machine have when however countercraftsman it may seem, lift out the bread pan containing a hot, all you do is dump ingredients into a box is to experience homemade, hot, fresh golden loaf. You can have bread three to and wake up in the morning to a tall, bread whenever you want it. four hours from starting the machine, or mushroom-shaped loaf? I thought bread use the timer so that the bread is ready machines might follow in the path of fon- WHAT EXACTLY IS A when you wake up in the morning. due pots and electric peeling wands. BREAD MACHINE? Throughout the process, you’re free But I was curious, too, and decided A bread machine in its simplest form is to look inside and poke and pinch the to give bread machines a try—if only to an impressive combination of comput- dough to make sure the texture is right— keep current, I told myself. As I evalu- er, mixer, dough kneader, proofing box, just keep your fingers clear of the knead- ated a number of brands, I quickly dis- miniature oven, and digital alarm ing blade when it’s moving. While it’s covered that home-style loaves, once a clock. It’s somewhat larger than a mixing and kneading, you can make weekend project, were literally child’s breadbox, most often a white molded slight adjustments to the dough by add- play in a bread machine. By winter, I was unit that houses a vertical bread pan ing a touch more flour or water. putting on a great pot of soup and tim- where all the magic takes place. Inside ing the bread machine to produce a the bread pan is a kneading blade, IS MACHINE BREAD GOOD? mouthwatering loaf just about the same which works like the dough hook of a Baked vertically, the straight-sided, tall time the soup was done and my sons’ stationary mixer. You literally plunk in- “machine” bread is perfect for brown- school bus turned the corner. gredients into the pan in a prescribed bagging, morning toast, and open-faced And I didn’t stop with just bread order. For most machines, liquids go in treats. Aside from a domed top, these from “the box.” I could make the ma- first, followed by flour, with the yeast loaves look much like any long loaf of chine work for me to mix, knead, and sprinkled on top. These ingredients are bread you might buy. The crusts are gen- proof doughs for breads that required incorporated by the blade into a shaggy erally crisp but tender, and the inside tex- more of an artisan’s touch. March mass, which eventually forms a ball of ture is notably light and feathery. brought warm batches of spicy hot cross dough that’s pummeled against the buns and staying rounds of Irish potato sides and bottom of the pan until prop- A NEAT AND EFFICIENT bread. Meanwhile, baking friends erly kneaded. KNEADER AND PROOFER would remark that I had sold out as a Timed by electronics, the kneading If you want crunchier crusts, more hearty baker, to which I would respond, “But blade then stops and lets the dough rest or varied textures, or different shapes when was the last time you actually and rise (proof). Then one or two brisk of bread, then consider using the bread made bread at home?” revolutions of this industrious blade machine to produce proofed dough that While machine-mixed and -baked knocks the dough down again to rise for you handle and bake traditionally. Most bread is a quantum leap from your great- a final time. During these first stages, the bread machines have a “dough program,” machine’s cavity is heated slightly to cre- in which dough is mixed, kneaded, and Bread machines make more than just sandwich ate a moist, warm haven for proofing the allowed to rise in its humid and warm loaves. They’re also great for kneading and proof- dough. As the dough comes to the end home. A beeper signals that the dough ing dough for breads like chewy breadsticks of its final rise, an electric coil in the ma- program is completed. You can then (above left), zataar-topped flatbread (bottom), chine’s interior heats up to an appropri- shape the proofed dough by hand into

Photo opposite: Sloan Howard and a triple-hump loaf (at right). ate temperature for baking. The risen rolls, loaves, breadsticks, or any form you

FEBRUARY/MARCH 1995 61 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press Let the machine do the mixing, and then remove This hearty, crusty French country loaf started in a bread machine. Even doughs made with a yeasty the dough to make hand-shaped bread or pizza. “sponge” can be mixed, kneaded, and proofed in the machine. wish and bake it in the oven (see the where I just don’t need to prepare each BREAD MACHINES DEMAND recipes on pp. 63–64). and every dough by hand. CAREFUL MEASUREMENTS How does making dough in a bread Good incubator for sponges, too. Bread machines are quite exceptional, machine differ from using a stationary Most recently, my machine has become but they’re unforgiving of cavalier meas- mixer with a dough hook? First, the the cradle for bubbling sponge starters uring. You must remember to measure bread machine is an enclosed container, that get turned into crusty French coun- accurately and to add ingredients in the so a floury, messy kitchen is never a de- try loaves (see photo above and recipe at order the manufacturer stipulates. If you terrent to an afternoon’s baking. Second, right). I mix a slurry of flour, water, and add too much yeast to a bread dough a bread machine is the perfect proofer for yeast and let it sit and froth overnight in baked in a regular oven, you’ll get a doughs—warm, moist, and draft-free. the bread machine, cover down. This slightly higher and yeastier-tasting No, I won’t abandon hand-kneading creates a sponge that will give the fin- bread—not terrific, but acceptable. This doughs, nor will I chuck my adored sta- ished bread a more robust character, with type of error in a bread machine, how- tionary mixer, which does larger batches a chewier texture and a crunchier crust. ever, can result in the dough rising and of dough. But when making bagels or The next day, I add more flour and yeast collapsing as it collides with the lid of the rolls that take a lot of handling, getting a and let the machine knead the dough unit, or fusing itself to the lid as it bakes. head start by having the dough made for and give it a short rise. Then I take it out Too much sugar or fat can also cause a you is a boon. Dough for pizza, focaccia, of the machine and let it rise more slow- loaf to cave in. However, used properly, breadsticks, and hard rolls emerges reg- ly on the counter or in the refrigerator. I and with some experience, you can easily ularly from my bread machine. I’ve shape it by hand and give it a brisk, hot turn out a wide range of tasty loaves with reached a point in my baking career bake in a steamy oven. a bread machine.

WHAT HAPPENS INSIDE

123 All the ingredients go in at once. Liquids, flour, A whirling blade mixes and kneads the dough. Dough rises in its warm and humid home. The and yeast go into the bread pan in the order spec- The blade spins around on the bottom of the bread machine heats up slightly so there’s no need to

ified by the manufacturer. pan, kneading the dough to develop gluten. search for a warm spot for the dough to rise. Photos: this page, Martha Holmberg; opposite, Robert Marsala.

62 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press FRENCH COUNTRY BREAD The combined effort of bread machine and time make a loaf with a robust flavor and a crust that is at once crusty and chewy. Makes one loaf. FOR THE SPONGE: 2⁄3 cup warm (105 to 115°F) water 1⁄2 tsp. active dry yeast 31⁄2 oz. (3⁄4 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. whole-wheat flour 1 tsp. rye flour FOR THE BREAD: 3⁄4 cup water 11⁄4 tsp. salt 1 Tbs. honey 1 tsp. active dry yeast 13 to 15 oz. (3 to 31⁄2 cups) unbleached bread flour Breadsticks are a snap when you make the dough in a bread machine. Roll out the dough and coat it with Cornmeal or semolina for baking a flavorful topping like Parmesan cheese and caraway seeds (above) or zataar spice mix (recipe on p. 64). Cut Flour or bran flakes for finishing (optional) the dough into strips with a pizza cutter, fold each strip in half, and give it a couple of twists before baking. Make the sponge—Put the water and yeast in the bread machine pan and let stand a few If the dough has been refrigerated, let it TRIPLE-HUMP LOAF minutes. Add the flours. Set the machine on come to room temperature. Punch down the Knead and proof this appealing loaf in a bread the dough program and let the kneading dough and shape it into a ball. Line a 10-in.- machine and then bake it in a loaf pan in the blade mix the ingredients into a batter-like diameter basket or bowl with a floured dish- oven. Makes one 9-inch loaf. glop, about 3 min., and then unplug the towel. Gently put the ball of dough inside, 11⁄4 cup water machine. (You can also mix the sponge in a smoothest side down. Lightly oil the top of the 2 Tbs. milk bowl and then put it in the machine.) Let the dough and cover with a thin dishtowel. Let it 2 Tbs. vegetable or olive oil sponge proof for 4 to 16 hours. It should look rise again until the ball is puffy and almost 1 Tbs. sugar bubbly and smell yeasty. doubled, which will take anywhere from 11⁄2 tsp. salt 2 Make the bread—Add the bread ingre- 11⁄2 to 21⁄2 hours. 16 oz. (3 ⁄3 cups) unbleached white bread flour 1 dients using the lower amount of flour to the Heat oven to 450°F. Sprinkle a baking 2 tsp. active dry yeast or 1 ⁄2 tsp. rapid-rise yeast proofed sponge and reset the machine to the sheet with the cornmeal or semolina. Gently Cornmeal for baking dough program. After the dough has been invert the ball of dough onto the baking Flour for finishing kneaded for 5 min. check its texture—it should sheet. If you like, slash the loaf with a razor Put the dough ingredients in the bread pan in be soft and springy. (Be sure to keep your fin- blade and sprinkle it with some flour or the order specified by the manufacturer. Turn gers out of the way of the blade.) If the dough bran flakes. the machine on to the dough program. is sticky, add more flour, 1 Tbs. at a time. Spray the oven with a few spritzes of water Heat the oven to 425°. When the dough program has finished from a spray bottle and put the bread on the When the dough program has finished, (the dough has risen once), remove the lowest rack in the oven. For the first 15 min. remove the dough and cut the dough into dough and put it in a greased bowl. Cover of baking, spray the oven walls every few min- three even sections. Shape each piece into a with plastic wrap and let it rise at room tem- utes. This seems tedious, but it will give the smooth oval. perature for 2 to 3 hours, or up to 12 hours bread an incredible crust. Lightly grease a 9x5-in. loaf pan with butter in the refrigerator. Reduce the heat to 425° and bake until or shortening and sprinkle some cornmeal on well browned, about 30 to 35 min. in total. the bottom. Put the three pieces of dough side The loaf should sound hollow when rapped on by side in the pan. Sprinkle 1 Tbs. flour on top. the bottom. Cool well on a rack before slicing. Allow the bread to rise until it’s almost flush

456 Take out the dough at this point for pizza or For machine-baked bread, the dough rises again The heating element turns the bread machine oven-baked bread. before baking. into an oven, and the loaf bakes until it is

Illustrations: Rosalie Vaccaro golden brown.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 1995 63 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press Bread-machine features with the top of the pan, about 30 to 40 min. Put the pan in the oven, reduce the heat to Competition is fierce among bread- DOUGH PROGRAM 400°, and bake 25 to 30 min., until the crust is On this setting, the machine kneads golden brown and the loaf makes a hollow machine manufacturers, and con- sound when rapped on the bottom. Let it cool sumers are reaping the rewards. There and proofs dough but doesn’t bake 5 min. before removing it from the pan, and are many machines to choose from, it. It’s a must if you want to use cool well before slicing your machine creatively. with more consistent performance ZATAAR FLATBREAD OR BREADSTICKS and better overall pricing. You can ex- You can find zataar in well-stocked spice pect to pay $150 to $500, depending RAPID-RISE PROGRAM stores, or you can mix it up at home. Makes on what features the machine has and Most machines bake bread in about two flatbreads or two dozen breadsticks. what sort of a deal you get. four hours. A rapid-rise program Dough from Triple-Hump Loaf (see recipe on p. 63), substituting water for the milk While no machine is perfect, shaves off an hour but delivers a 2 Tbs. vegetable oil, for brushing the pan small faults are usually buoyed up shorter, denser loaf. It’s handy if 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing the dough by some nice features. The only you’re short on time but still want 1⁄4 cup zataar spice mix (see recipe below) hot bread to serve. machines I suggest you avoid are the Heat the oven to 475°. Line two baking sheets ones in which the bread pan has a with kitchen parchment and brush with the hole in the bottom. With these, you WHOLE-WHEAT PROGRAM vegetable oil. must fit the pan in the machine be- A whole-wheat program simply To make flatbreads—Divide the dough in half and roll one piece into a 12-in. round on a fore filling it, which can be messy gives a heavier and more sluggish lightly floured surface. Allow the dough to re- and inconvenient. whole-wheat dough the extra time lax if it’s too elastic to roll out easily. Transfer it In essence, it’s no longer which it needs to rise. If you plan to make to one of the baking sheets, brush with half of the olive oil, then sprinkle a few tablespoons of machine you buy, it’s what you do 100% whole-wheat bread frequently, the zataar spice mix on top. Repeat with the with it when you get it home. But this option is important; however, second piece of dough. Bake until they brown how do you decide which one is right doughs made with up to 50% whole- and blister, 8 to 10 min. You can serve the wheat flour do fine with the regular bread hot, warm, or cold, either cut into for you? wedges or torn into rough pieces. program. To make breadsticks—Roll the dough SIZE into a 12x16-in. rectangle that’s 1⁄4 in. thick. Most bread machines have a bread RAISIN PROGRAM Brush the dough with the olive oil and sprinkle on the spice mix. Gently press the 1 pan that holds a 1 ⁄2-pound loaf, The kneading blade in a bread spices into the dough. but 1-pound units are available machine tends to mince raisins if Using a pizza wheel or a long knife, cut and more 2-pound-capacity bread they’re added too early. A raisin the dough into long strips 1⁄2 in. wide. Pick program usually means that a up a strip, gently stretch it, and then fold it machines are coming on the market. in half. Holding each end, twist the dough I recommend at least a 11⁄2-pound beeper sounds to signal when to three or four times and then put it on the model, even for small households. add the raisins or other additional prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the rest With the extra capacity of a larger ingredients. of the strips. Bake until golden brown, 12 to 15 min. machine, you don’t have to worry ZATAAR SPICE MIX about making a stubby loaf that’s not CRUST CONTROL Yields 11⁄4 cups. enough to go around or a skimpy This option lets you fine-tune the 2 tsp. ground dried oregano batch of pizza dough. crust color depending on the recipe. 2 tsp. dried oregano leaves Machines without this control 2 Tbs. ground dried thyme 1 tsp. dried thyme leaves VIEWING WINDOW usually turn out loaves with medium- 2 tsp. ground dried savory Some machines have a viewing win- to light-colored crusts. 2 tsp. ground dried marjoram 1⁄2 tsp. dried marjoram leaves dow, and it’s reflected in a higher 1 Tbs. sumac (optional) price. I like a window because I can KEEP-WARM OR COOL-DOWN FAN 1⁄2 cup sesame seeds 11⁄2 tsp. salt peer in and see if the dough needs a If you’re not around to take the Zest of 2 lemons, minced very fine finished bread out of its pan immedi- flour or water adjustment. It’s also Toss all the ingredients together until thor- great if you have kids around, for ately after baking, it sweats and its oughly mixed. Stored in an airtight container, whom bread-machine baking is a crisp crust turns soggy. Some models it will keep for several weeks. sideshow. You can, however, lift the have a cool-down fan to buy you Marcy Goldman, a graduate of l’Institut lid and peek in while the dough is some time, while others blow hot air de tourisme et hôtellerie de Québec, is a to keep the bread warm for a couple kneading and rising, so a window baker, pastry chef, and writer living in isn’t essential. of hours. Montreal. •