’s captivating coastal capital offers history, nature and gastronomic delights, plus a modern wonder of the world, says Janine Clements

ften overlooked as a vacation destination, THE WILD SIDE Panama is making its mark on the map. The capital offers easy access to much of Panama’s O Visitors are captivated by its spirit and diverse blend of cultures and traditions. Panama City is a place unique flora and fauna. In the heart of the city, close of contrasts, with a mesmerizing skyline of modern to the old quarter is Cerro Ancon, a 645ft hill. The skyscrapers towering over the pastel-colored colonial leisurely climb through the rainforest to its summit, buildings of its chic historic quarter and the glistening the city’s highest point, takes around 40 minutes and Bay of Panama. provides the best views across the city. It’s best to go Founded by the Spanish, the colorful capital is going early morning to beat the heat: aim to get to the top in through an exciting period of change and its vibrant time for sunrise. As well as Panamanian guinea pigs, energy is palpable. New hotels, as well as restaurants, monkeys and toucans, early risers may get lucky and bars and boutiques are springing up all over, many spot a sleepy sloth. There’s also a Panamanian flag the of them with an artisanal focus and with young size of a basketball court flying high above the city as a at the helm. symbol of national sovereignty. Sitting at the entrance of the , hailed Just outside downtown Panama City is the Parque as one of the greatest accomplishments of the 20th Metropolitano, a lush, 106sq-mile urban jungle home to century, Panama City is a modern metropolis and it’s over 500 plant and animal species. This peaceful and easy to become immersed in its enthralling history, lush popular hiking spot feels remote despite being within rainforests, lively neighborhoods, coastal promenades the city limits and provides welcome relief from the and parks. The city’s biggest secret is the opportunities frenetic pace of the city. There are a number of walking Panama City getty : it provides to encounter some of Panama’s incredible trails and some wildlife, including adorable Geoffroy’s Left: Keel-billed toucan

wildlife within their natural habitat. tamarin monkeys. Take the Camino de Mono Titi or the images in the Panama jungle

62 // postcards Fall 2019 // 63 // PANAMA CITY Panama Viejo of ruins hats; Panama National Park; traditional Darien in girl Embera from topClockwise left 64 // postcards :

images: awl images; getty is easy to navigate. Within it is an eclectic it an is to Within navigate. easy is four avenues neighborhood chic wide, this Heritage Site 1997. in only and agrid in Built Worldsince declared being aUNESCO of aperiod rapidthrough gentrification decadestwo ago, the neighborhood been has until by gangs ano-go ruled area Although the near foot Ancon. of Cerro peninsula of the founding the city,after on asmall (the old quarter), years built two was market.center ahandicrafts with there’s and preserved amuseum visitor and well are ruins Site, crumbling its expansive by pirates. World Now aUNESCO Heritage the mid-17th attacked being after century for gold silver. and It abandoned was in post Viejo, trading important an became conquistador, city, the original Panama culture. and to explore its heritage opportunities endless year,this offers August in 500 turned city,The which HERITAGE HISTORY AND islands. small to four Panama mainland that links route biking popular and promenade de Amador, ascenic along the Calzada found are amphibian exhibits. These open-air of and fascinating array marine Institute,Research features which an Center, Tropical of the Smithsonian part Culebra to Nature Punta going worth also impact on the planet’s biodiversity. It’s its and enormous isthmus Panamanian dedicatedgalleries of the to the origin Biodiversity eight Museum, has which of Panama’s ecological riches, the visit 115ft-high canopy crane. TropicalSmithsonian Institute’s Research For book aridecanal. added on an the thrill, of the city and views with to rewarded be tougher Sendero Cieneguita to the top La A walled city,A walled Viejo Casco as now known Founded 1519 in by aSpanish To in-depth an gain understanding recent years recent gastronomic gastronomic // the city’s // city’s the exploded in exploded scene has through the canal’sthrough newest locks. the world’s container biggest ships journey Visitor Center, where it’s possible to watch from the city, Clara Colon, in the Agua is one-and-a-half hours Around supertankers. private yachtsfrom small to colossal of vessel, type accommodating every for trade, international maritime visitors out take who guide, can alocal the beatenoff path, it’s seeking worth Forcart. completely to who those want go raspao Black Christ). from the Cool heat off a with de Negro Portobelo Cristo legendary (the Iglesia Felipe, de San houses which the weekends. Acouple of blocks the away is market at indigenous craft an also and of delveswhich the canal, into the history Interoceanico, theand Museo del Canal its center In Independencia, Plaza artists. is designed streeteye-catching by local murals brick and streets with historic landmarks architecture, bougainvillea-filled plazas, French of American early Spanish, and mix are now synonymous with good . good with now synonymous are from abroad. Little the pockets city around of talent influx an as well as ingredients, and flavors local creative with getting and dishes chefs reinventing Panamanian to young exploded recent in thanks years, city’s The gastronomic scene has the USA. Europe, and as well region the Caribbean as the from around influences with cultures, Panama’s comes from afusion of CULINARY CULTURE (similar to asnow cone) (similar from astreet it’s amajor route wonders of the world’, so-called ‘new seven old one and of the Now over 100 years the Pacific oceans. to from the Atlantic stretches Canal life. local into insight a fascinating side, giving as well as City’s grittier Panama Chorillo, show and community, El neighboring into The Panama Panama The ships lining upto enter Panama the chocolates, which come inan array flavors. They run hour-long tasting tasting hour-long run They flavors. the coastline is home to parks and and to is parks home coastline the as they migrateas southern the from with various permanent as well permanent as as various with running paths.running There are stunning possible to humpback see whales coming and established local and and local coming established and national celebration are Pride and meeting point for the community community formeeting the point Canal. Carnival, Panama’sCanal. Carnival, biggest side is and Viejo street a inCasco sessions, sampling eight types of eightsessions, sampling types of exquisite designs unusual and and buy handmade Panamanian buy and Panama, as well container Panama, the as as restaurants as well as biking and well and biking as as restaurants Brooke Alfaro. Itis a designed as promenade that stretches along Latin American artists, including artists, American Latin This contemporary art museum museum art This contemporary showcases the work of the up-and-showcases charming place to grab acoffee The best viewing time is time viewing during best The Pacific coast are coast an archipelagoPacific and isand spread across floors two views of the city and the Bay of the and city ofviews the Oro Moreno is a little café on a is on café Moreno Oro alittle The Pearl Islands off Panama’s off Islands Pearl The of over where 200 it’s islands chocolate made in Panama. hemisphere intheir droves This palm-lined waterfront waterfront This palm-lined breeding season, from July from breeding season, Best of the rest of the Best traveling exhibitions. MAC Panama Cinta CosteraCinta to mid-October. Pearl Islands Oro Moreno Oro also held here.also fall 2019 fall

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// ESSENTIALS

Parque Metropolitano San Francisco PANAMA CITY

Cerro Ancon PANAMA Plaza CITY Independencia PANAMA

PACIFIC OCEAN Calzada de Amador 1 mile Panamenian-style ceviche

When to go: The most popular time to visit Panama City is in the dry On a quiet street in Casco Viejo is juice and ice-cream stand, is fun for a post- season, between December and April. Fonda Lo Que Hay where visitors can enjoy dinner treat. It’s cheaper to travel in the wet season, a taste of Panamanian home . One of Panama’s most popular national known as the green season, which is It’s based on a typical open-air restaurant dishes is ceviche, made with fresh raw fish still pleasant, although October and found in local neighborhoods, with dishes marinated in citrus juice with chili peppers November have the most rainfall. such as costillas (ribs) and tajadas (sweet, for . Panamanian ceviche uses cubes Currency: USD and Panamanian fried plantains.) Owned by Jose Carles, one of fresh fish and is served in pastry shells, Balboa $1=1 Balboa of Panama’s top chefs, the menu changes while Peruvian ceviche uses strips of fish Language: Spanish is the official every day and is only in Spanish. He that have been marinated for longer. A language, but an increasing number of also owns Donde Jose, a 16-seater fine portion costs around $2 from the Mercado people speak English. dining restaurant that showcases de Mariscos, the city’s waterfront fish Getting around: It’s easy to get contemporary . market, which is well worth a visit. around the city. Uber is popular and It’s almost impossible to get a table Panama has made a name for itself inexpensive. The Metro subway without booking well in advance. around the world for coffee; its highlands and Metro Bus are cheap public To experience some of Panama City’s most blessed with the ideal climate for growing transport options. inventive cooking, head to hipster suburb beans. It famously produces Geish, one of San Francisco. Some of the city’s best food the most expensive coffees in the world, trucks such as Anti Burger and Esa Flaca which sells for around $9 a cup in the city, Rica are based here, as well as upscale but much more outside Panama. There BOOK IT NOW restaurants such as Segundo Muelle, are plenty of artisanal coffee houses where ------which does great seafood, and a number of visitors can sample it, including Bajareque Explore the Panama Canal microbreweries including La Rana Dorada in Casco Viejo, which is owned by the with Royal Caribbean on a 15-night Brewery and Istmo Brew Pub. La Casa de Lamastus family, who have their own Westbound Panama Canal journey, las Frutas, Jugos y Helados, a drive-through coffee plantations. departing from Fort Lauderdale and taking you to Cartagena, , Puerto Vallarta and more. Departs CALL US To book your trip to Panama, contact our travel agency — the number’s on the back.

May 4, 2020. image: alamy. map illustration: john plumer

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