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Captivating Coastal Capital Panama City Offers History, Nature and Gastronomic Delights, Plus a Modern Wonder of the World, Says Janine Clements

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Captivating Coastal Capital Panama City Offers History, Nature and Gastronomic Delights, Plus a Modern Wonder of the World, Says Janine Clements Panama’s captivating coastal capital Panama City offers history, nature and gastronomic delights, plus a modern wonder of the world, says Janine Clements ften overlooked as a vacation destination, THE WILD SIDE Panama is making its mark on the map. The capital offers easy access to much of Panama’s O Visitors are captivated by its spirit and diverse blend of cultures and traditions. Panama City is a place unique flora and fauna. In the heart of the city, close of contrasts, with a mesmerizing skyline of modern to the old quarter is Cerro Ancon, a 645ft hill. The skyscrapers towering over the pastel-colored colonial leisurely climb through the rainforest to its summit, buildings of its chic historic quarter and the glistening the city’s highest point, takes around 40 minutes and Bay of Panama. provides the best views across the city. It’s best to go Founded by the Spanish, the colorful capital is going early morning to beat the heat: aim to get to the top in through an exciting period of change and its vibrant time for sunrise. As well as Panamanian guinea pigs, energy is palpable. New hotels, as well as restaurants, monkeys and toucans, early risers may get lucky and bars and boutiques are springing up all over, many spot a sleepy sloth. There’s also a Panamanian flag the of them with an artisanal focus and with young size of a basketball court flying high above the city as a Panamanians at the helm. symbol of national sovereignty. Sitting at the entrance of the Panama Canal, hailed Just outside downtown Panama City is the Parque as one of the greatest accomplishments of the 20th Metropolitano, a lush, 106sq-mile urban jungle home to century, Panama City is a modern metropolis and it’s over 500 plant and animal species. This peaceful and easy to become immersed in its enthralling history, lush popular hiking spot feels remote despite being within rainforests, lively neighborhoods, coastal promenades the city limits and provides welcome relief from the and parks. The city’s biggest secret is the opportunities frenetic pace of the city. There are a number of walking Panama City getty : it provides to encounter some of Panama’s incredible trails and some wildlife, including adorable Geoffroy’s Left: Keel-billed toucan wildlife within their natural habitat. tamarin monkeys. Take the Camino de Mono Titi or the images in the Panama jungle 62 // postcards Fall 2019 // 63 // PANAMA CITY tougher Sendero La Cieneguita to the top mix of Spanish, French and early American Best of the rest to be rewarded with views of the city and architecture, bougainvillea-filled plazas, canal. For an added thrill, book a ride on the historic landmarks and brick streets with Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute’s eye-catching murals designed by local street 115ft-high canopy crane. artists. In its center is Plaza Independencia, To gain an in-depth understanding and the Museo del Canal Interoceanico, of Panama’s ecological riches, visit the which delves into the history of the canal, Biodiversity Museum, which has eight and also an indigenous craft market at Cinta Costera galleries dedicated to the origin of the weekends. A couple of blocks away is the This palm-lined waterfront Panamanian isthmus and its enormous Iglesia de San Felipe, which houses the promenade that stretches along impact on the planet’s biodiversity. It’s legendary Cristo Negro de Portobelo (the the coastline is home to parks and also worth going to Punta Culebra Nature Black Christ). Cool off from the heat with a restaurants as well as biking and Center, part of the Smithsonian Tropical raspao (similar to a snow cone) from a street running paths. There are stunning Research Institute, which features an cart. For those who want to go completely views of the city and the Bay of array of fascinating open-air marine and off the beaten path, it’s worth seeking Panama, as well as the container amphibian exhibits. These are found out a local guide, who can take visitors ships lining up to enter the Panama along the Calzada into neighboring Canal. Carnival, Panama’s biggest de Amador, a scenic community, El national celebration and Pride are promenade and Chorillo, and show also held here. popular biking route Panama City’s grittier that links mainland // the city’s side, as well as giving Pearl Islands Panama to four a fascinating insight The Pearl Islands off Panama’s small islands. gastronomic into local life. Pacific coast are an archipelago The Panama of over 200 islands where it’s HISTORY AND Canal stretches possible to see humpback whales HERITAGE scene has from the Atlantic to as they migrate from the southern Clockwise from top left: The city, which the Pacific oceans. hemisphere in their droves Embera girl in Darien turned 500 in August exploded in Now over 100 years The best viewing time is during National Park; traditional this year, offers old and one of the breeding season, from July Panama hats; ruins of endless opportunities recent years so-called ‘new seven to mid-October. Panama Viejo to explore its heritage wonders of the world’, and culture. it’s a major route MAC Panama Founded in 1519 by a Spanish for international maritime trade, This contemporary art museum conquistador, the original city, Panama accommodating every type of vessel, showcases the work of up-and- Viejo, became an important trading post from small private yachts to colossal coming and established local and for gold and silver. It was abandoned in supertankers. Around one-and-a-half hours Latin American artists, including the mid-17th century after being attacked from the city, in Colon, is the Agua Clara Brooke Alfaro. It is designed as a by pirates. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Visitor Center, where it’s possible to watch meeting point for the community Site, its expansive crumbling ruins are well the world’s biggest container ships journey and is spread across two floors preserved and there’s a museum and visitor through the canal’s newest locks. with various permanent as well as center with a handicrafts market. traveling exhibitions. A walled city, now known as Casco Viejo CULINARY CULTURE (the old quarter), was built two years Panama’s cuisine comes from a fusion of Oro Moreno after the founding of the city, on a small cultures, with influences from around the Oro Moreno is a little café on a peninsula near the foot of Cerro Ancon. region as well as Europe, the Caribbean and side street in Casco Viejo and is a Although a no-go area ruled by gangs until the USA. The city’s gastronomic scene has charming place to grab a coffee two decades ago, the neighborhood has been exploded in recent years, thanks to young and buy handmade Panamanian through a period of rapid gentrification chefs reinventing Panamanian dishes chocolates, which come in an array since being declared a UNESCO World and getting creative with local flavors and of exquisite designs and unusual Heritage Site in 1997. Built in a grid and only ingredients, as well as an influx of talent flavors. They run hour-long tasting four avenues wide, this chic neighborhood from abroad. Little pockets around the city sessions, sampling eight types of images: awl images; getty images; awl images: is easy to navigate. Within it is an eclectic are now synonymous with good food. chocolate made in Panama. 64 // postcards fall 2019 // 65 // PANAMA CITY // ESSENTIALS Parque Metropolitano San Francisco PANAMA CITY Cerro Ancon PANAMA Plaza CITY Independencia PANAMA PACIFIC OCEAN Calzada de Amador 1 mile Panamenian-style ceviche When to go: The most popular time to visit Panama City is in the dry On a quiet street in Casco Viejo is juice and ice-cream stand, is fun for a post- season, between December and April. Fonda Lo Que Hay where visitors can enjoy dinner treat. It’s cheaper to travel in the wet season, a taste of Panamanian home cooking. One of Panama’s most popular national known as the green season, which is It’s based on a typical open-air restaurant dishes is ceviche, made with fresh raw fish still pleasant, although October and found in local neighborhoods, with dishes marinated in citrus juice with chili peppers November have the most rainfall. such as costillas (ribs) and tajadas (sweet, for spice. Panamanian ceviche uses cubes Currency: USD and Panamanian fried plantains.) Owned by Jose Carles, one of fresh fish and is served in pastry shells, Balboa $1=1 Balboa of Panama’s top chefs, the menu changes while Peruvian ceviche uses strips of fish Language: Spanish is the official every day and is only in Spanish. He that have been marinated for longer. A language, but an increasing number of also owns Donde Jose, a 16-seater fine portion costs around $2 from the Mercado people speak English. dining restaurant that showcases de Mariscos, the city’s waterfront fish Getting around: It’s easy to get contemporary Panamanian cuisine. market, which is well worth a visit. around the city. Uber is popular and It’s almost impossible to get a table Panama has made a name for itself inexpensive. The Metro subway without booking well in advance. around the world for coffee; its highlands and Metro Bus are cheap public To experience some of Panama City’s most blessed with the ideal climate for growing transport options. inventive cooking, head to hipster suburb beans. It famously produces Geish, one of San Francisco. Some of the city’s best food the most expensive coffees in the world, trucks such as Anti Burger and Esa Flaca which sells for around $9 a cup in the city, Rica are based here, as well as upscale but much more outside Panama.
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