EROSION of the UNITED STATES SHORELINE a Variety of Reference

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EROSION of the UNITED STATES SHORELINE a Variety of Reference EROSION OF THE UNITED STATES SHORELINE ORRIN H. PILKEY, JR AND E. ROBERT THIELER Duke Universic. Depunmenf of Geology. Old Chemist? Building. Durham. North Crtrolina 177015 ABSTRACT: Over 75 percent of the United States ocean shoreline is eroding (retreating landward). Shoreline progradation. where oc- curring, is generally assumed to be a temporary phenomenon. When affecting a developed area, shoreline retreat is usually termed erosion. but considerable confusion remains over the use of this term. Retreat and progradation refer to a change in shoreline position. whereas erosion and accretion refer to volumetric changes in the subaerial beach. As used in this paper. however. erosion refers to any form of shoreline retreat. consistent with common usage. Coastal erosion is a fundamental and widespread process on U.S. and world shorelines. Evidence. particularly on banier-island coasts. indicates that in the past few decades or millenia. erosion may have become a more widespread process. Possible causes of this change include the effect of humans, shoreface steepening. or an increase in the rate of eustatic sea-level rise. Mechanisms responsible for shoreline erosion arc highly variable. both temporally and geographically. In addition, our understanding of shoreline sediment-transport dynamics is incomplete. Consequently, we are presently unable to predict accurately future shoreline- retreat rates related to continued sea-level rise. The Bmun Rule. for example. predicts little shoreline retreat relative to using, as a pdictive tool, the slope of the land surface over which sea level is expected to rise. WHAT IS COASTAL EROSION? a variety of reference features. measurement techniques, and Defining erosion in the coastal environment is difficult. rate-of-ihange calculations. Thus, whereas CEIS represents Various terms are used to describe the process, including the best available data for the U.S. as a whole, much work drowning, coastal erosion, shoreline erosion, beach ero- is needed to document regional and local erosion rates ac- sion. shoreline retreat, beach retreat, and shoreline reces- curately. sion. Strictly speaking, retreat and progradation refer to a When examined in detail, such as on a state-by-state ba- change in shoreline position; erosion and accretion refer to sis, the actual percentage of eroding shoreline is generally volumetric changes in the subaerial beach (Wood and oth- much higher than the coastwide averages shown in Figure ers, 1988; Oertel and others, 1989). The term beach ero- 1 suggest. This discrepancy is likely due to the large amount sion, however, is deeply ingrained in the public lexicon to of shoreline for which "no data" exist and the coarse res- refer to any form of shoreline retreat (usually the change olution of CEIS. Dolan and others (1990b). for example, in position of the high-tide line); we shall here use it in the report that 78 percent of the Delaware shoreline is eroding; same broad sense as does the general public. Maryland, 94 percent; Virginia, 72 percent; and North Car- When dealing with shorelines and beaches, it is crucial olina, 72 percent. Griggs (1987a) states that approximately to distinksh between erosion and an erosion ~roblem.Many 86 percent of the California shoreline is eroding. kilometgrs of undeveloped U.S. shoreline & eroding (re- treating landward) and, as a rule, such locations are not WHY UBIQUITOUS EROSION? considered to be societal problems. Erosion and retreat of the shoreline are, in fact, critically important processes in Coastal erosion is a fundamental and widespread process the evolution of Holocene coastal landforms. Estuaries, la- not only on U.S. but also world shorelines. There is some goons, spits, banier islands, sea cliffs, and many other coastal evidence, however, that such has not always been the case. landforms all owe their shape and depositional patterns to Examination of the U.S. barrier-island shoreline, for ex- erosion, at least in part. It is only when humans interfere ample, indicates that fundamental changes in depositional with or get in the way of shoreline erosion that it is rec- patterns have recently taken place. Many barrier islands are ognized as a problem. A broad discussion of the U.S. coastal- regressive, indicating that a seaward accretion or widening erosion problem, along with methodology, political impli- of the island occurred over the last 2 to 4 ka. Within the cations, and costs for mitigation is furnished by the Na- last several hundred years, however, a profound change has tional Research Council (1990). taken place and shoreline retreat has replaced shoreline pro- gradation. In other words, barrier islands are becoming in- U.S. SHORELINE-EROSION RATES creasingly transgressive. Most regressive banier islands (e.g., Erosion rates for the contiguous U.S. shoreline, based Bogue Banks, North Carolina, and Galveston Island, Texas) on data in the Coastal Erosion Information System (CEIS; are now eroding on both the ocean and lagoon sides. May and others, 1982), have been compiled by May and Possible explanations for increased worldwide erosion others (1983) and Dolan and others (1985; Tables 1 and 2; include the effects of humans-shoreline stabilization and Fig. 1). CEIS includes shoreline-change data for the At- river damming; sand supply reduction-shoreface steep- lantic, Gulf of Mexico, Pacific and Great Lakes coasts, as ening; and a recent increase in the rate of eustatic sea-level well as for major bays and estuaries. The data in CEIS are rise. However appealing, each of these possibilities leaves drawn from a variety of sources, including published re- certain questions unanswered. For example, humans cer- ports, historical shoreline-change maps, field surveys, and tainly contribute to coastal erosion in some locations, but aerial-photograph analyses. However, the lack of a stan- completely undeveloped areas such as the bamer-island dard method among coastal scientists for analyzing shore- system on the Pacific coast of Colombia are also eroding line changes has resulted in the inclusion of data utilizing at high rates. Quaternary Coasts of the United States: Muine and Lacusvine Systems. SEPM Special Publication No. 48 Copyright 0 1992. SEPM (Society for Sedimcnfaiy Geology). ISBN 0-918985-98-6 ORRIN H. PILKEY. JR AND E. ROBERT THIELER TABLEI .-SHORELINE RATES OF CHANGE FOR REGIONS AND STATES Mean SUndmd Region trn/y~l Deviation ~mgel Atlantic Coast -0.8 3.2 25.5/-24.6 Maine -0.4 0.6 1.91-0.5 New Hampshire -0.5 - -0.5/-0.5 Massachu~ns -0.9 1.9 4.5/-4.5 19 Rho& Islad -0.5 0. I -0.3/-0.7 I Aa New York 0.1 3.2 18.8/-2.2 a- m New Jersey zs.S/- 15.0 Delaware 5.0/-2.3 Atlantic Coast Gulf of Mexico Maryland 1.3/-8.8 Virginia 0.9/-24.6 Nmh Carolina 9.4/-6.0 South Carolina 5.9/-17.7 Erosion Rate (m/lvr) Georgia 5.0/-4.0 Florida 5.0/-2.9 Gulf of Mexico 8.8/- 15.3 Florida 8.8/-4.5 1 1.1-2 Alabama 0.8/-3.1 Mississippi 0.6/-6.4 Louisiana 3.4/- 15.3 Texas 0.8/-5.0 Pacific Coast 10.0/-4.2 El NoDw California 10.0/-4.2 Oregon -0.1 1.4 SO/-5.0 FIG. 1.-Pie charts of erosion rates on the U.S. open-ocean coastline. -0.5 2.2 Washington 5'0/-3'9 The large amount of shoreline classified as "no data" likely results in 'Positive values indicate accretion; negative values indicate erosion. (After Dolan an artificially low figure for the total percentage of eroding shoreline (see and others. 1985.) text for discussion). (After Dolan and others, 1990a). TABU 2.-SHORELINE RATES OF CHANGE FOR COASTAL On barrier-island coasts, erosion rates must be examined LANDFORM nPEs in the context of the total barrier-island system. The con- current development of transgressive and regressive bar- -- riers along the Texas coast, for example, is related to the Burier islands longshore distribution of sediment sources and sinks (Mor- Atlantic Coast -0.8 3.4 25.5/-24.6 Maine-New Yorlr -0.3 2.6 4.51-1.5 ton, 1979; Numrnedal, 1983). New York-North Carolina -1.5 4.5 25.5/-24.6 Shoreline erosion on the Texas coast predominates at del- Nonh Carolina-Florida -0.4 2.6 9.4/- 17.7 taic headlands, such as the Rio Grande and Brazos deltas. Gulf of Mexico -0.6 1.5 8.8/-4.3 Florida-Louisana -0.5 1.7 8.8/-4.3 In the central portion of each embayment between the del- Louisiana-Texas -0.8 1.2 0.8/-3.5 taic headlands, accretion or at least relatively slow erosion Sud beaches Atlantic Coast -1.0 I .O 2.0/-4.5 occurs (Morton, 1979). The eroding deltaic headlands are Maine-Massachusetts -0.7 0.5 -0.5/-2.5 the source of sand for the accreting shoreline between river Massachusetts-New Jersey -1.3 1.3 2.0/-4.5 mouths. Gulf of Mexico -0.4 1.6 8.8/-4.5 Pacifif Coast -0.3 1.O 0.7/-4.2 Evolution of the Louisiana coast is similarly affected by Sad beaches with rock headland -0.3 1.9 lO.O/-5.0 regional-scale processes. Penland and others (1985) dem- Pocket beaches onstrated a cyclic relation between Mississippi Delta lobe- Atlantic Coa5t -0.5 - -0.5/-0.5 Prifu Coast -0.2 1.1 5.01- I. I switching events and barrier development and destruction. Dcltsr -2.5 3.5 8.8/- 15.3 Extremely rapid shoreline-erosion rates prevail no matter Mud flur Gulf of Mexico -1.9 2.2 3.4/-8.1 what the stage of barrier development in this cycle.
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