Build Your Own Plunge Pool

How To Build

Your Own DIY

Plunge Pool

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Save Up to $10,000

Or More on Your Costs!

Includes: Construction Overview, Materials, Cost Breakdowns & More! The “Little” Book that’s worth its Weight in GOLD!!!

The DIY Plunge Pool Build Manual

The Fastest Growing “Must Have” for Gen X and Baby Boomers!

I don’t think I know anybody who doesn’t enjoy relaxing in a nice clean body of water, warm or cool. And, it’s pretty common knowledge that for most of us, water provides one of the best environments for relaxing and exercise that you can do for yourself. Water exercise is low impact, less strain, good for tired or injured muscles and suitable for just about everyone, regardless of what age they may be or what shape they may be in.

A low intensity water type workout is excellent for anyone starting or on their journey of getting back in shape. Maybe you’re just looking for a means to do a low impact cardio type workout. A refreshing water environment is one of the most perfect means to accomplish both a low impact workout and low impact cardio exercises. Best of all you can just stop, float and relax anytime you want.

So… just what is a Plunge Pool anyway? Simply put; a plunge pool is much the same as a hot tub, swim spa or exercise pool, but typically without the jets. It can be smaller or sometimes shorter than a typical swim spa. So just because of the smaller size alone, you can save as much as $3000 to $5000 over the cost of a quality swim spa unit.

A plunge pool can be anywhere around 8’ to 10’ square, round, rectangular water vessel, (often larger), with a water depth anywhere you want it, but generally somewhere around 48” to 54”. Some users might want a little more depth, I say go for it, there are no rules for the size, shape or depth of a plunge pool. It’s not uncommon to have access steps on one side, but still giving you ample room to relax, cool off or do many routine water exercises. If you’re building a unit for two people to use at the same time, you might make your unit a little larger.

The plunge pool may or may not be heated, but it will have a water circulation and filtration system to keep the water clean and clear. Normally seats are not installed in a plunge pool but you certainly could. And some people opt to install a few water jets as an option. A light is another common option that is popular in a plunge pool. (Refer to the lighting section of my Version 1 Spa Building book for details on light installations).

So why wouldn’t you just go out and buy a small above ground portable pool to relax or exercise in? You certainly could, however, many above ground pools lack the strength and integrity required for a true plunge pool or exercise pool. The above ground pools, even the smaller ones are can be larger in size than what you would need. Therefore, the cost of cleaning, filtering, heating an above ground unit, (if you heat it), will cost you more per month than a built from scratch plunge pool. Most above ground pools offer two shape options, round or oval. Not a lot of appeal for those who want to dress up their back yard environment with something unique and different.

Disclaimer: The Publisher and Author disclaim any personal liability, loss, risk or injury incurred as a result of the use of any information or advice contained herein, either directly or indirectly. Above ground pools will always have a market but that market tends to be younger families who realize that taking vacations with children can be an expensive proposition. Kids generally love a backyard pool and what do they do first when you go on vacation where there is a pool? They go to the pool; they want to play in the water. The money saved by not going on a couple expensive vacations most likely will pay for a back yard pool for their kids.

We all know that the money spent on an above ground pool is not recovered in the future value of the home, it’s a depreciation asset. That’s just the way it is with most portable amenities. The value is in the use you enjoy while you have it.

Let’s take a look at the plunge pool now. More likely than not the person wanting a plunge pool or that’s interested in a plunge pool is going to be a little older, they want something much nicer than a vinyl filled puddle in the back yard and they what it to be a functional part of their back yard theme. Additionally, a plunge pool is going to be a permanent fixture that can add equity value to a home. Thus, it is an investment or justified expense that could generate a return. Here are a few examples of Plunge Pools that I think really hit the mark!

Here is an interesting fact: An 8’ square masonry built plunge pool 54” deep holds about 2100 gallons of water. A 14’ foot round above ground pool, 4’ deep, holds over twice as much water. That means at least twice as much water to heat and treat compared to the masonry built Plunge pool built to a size exactly the way you want it. Preparation and Construction

The preparation for a “Plunge Pool” is mostly the same as what I’ve outlined in my Version 1 Spa Building book for spas and hot tubs. Determine your location, prepare a solid insulated concrete base pad, then follow the wall building method as I show for a hot tub, spa or swim spa. If you haven’t yet read my V-1 Spa Building manual, I strongly suggest doing that before starting this project. The processes I cover will definitely help you avoid mistakes as well as give you other ideas you may be able to incorporate in your plunge pool.

One thing done differently in a Plunge pool is that you don’t necessarily have add any seat areas, (unless of course you want seats), and you don’t need to install water jets, (unless you want a couple of those as well). However, depending on the climate in which you live, you may want to make provisions for some type of heating.

On the next few pages I’m going to outline a simple 8’ by 8’ by 54” deep plunge pool. It will include a layout for a set of steps as well the different plumbing, filtering, water purification and heating options to consider. I’ll cover what to consider for electrical supply and lastly I will cover a generalized materials list and cost breakdown, giving you a fairly accurate accounting of what you could expect your expenditures will be. NOTE: this cost will vary widely depending on where you live and how much of the work you do yourself and how intricate your overall design is. I’ve had customers do some pretty elaborate projects but like I mentioned before, there are no rules for size, shape or appearance, so get crazy if you want!

And here is something else that makes the plunge pool attractive. By adding a grab bar or two just below the top surface and anchored to the inside wall of the plunge pool you now have a way to hold on while you do leg exercises that you would do if you were actually swimming. Then you can just turn around, hook your feet into the bar from below or above and now you can do all the swim strokes with your arms as well as your torso. Stroke as hard as you want, as easy as you want and stop when you want. Because your movement is basically stationary you don’t need the length of a typical swim spa or the jets. That alone lets you save thousands of dollars over a swim spa.

Illustration 1 Plunge pool wall section with a simple stainless steel grab bar installed

Install the grab bar about 6”- 8” down from the top surface of the Plunge Pool.

Not only that, using a grab bar lets you do a number of standing exercises with much more stability. You plunge pool now becomes a dual purpose. It’s a plunge pool for cooling off and relaxing and it’s an exercise pool for any water exercises you want to do. To install a couple of stainless grab bars will cost you less than $100.00! Now you can start to see why a plunge pool is such an attractive amenity. It’s a multi-functional investment often at a minimum cost.

Here’s a simple Plunge Pool layout with an Inside dimension of 8’ by 8’ square and a depth of 54”. Illustration 2 (not to scale)

Entry/exit steps ”optional”

Suction/return inlets/outlets 2 suction and 2 returns outlets required

Skimmer

Return

Suction Side

Illustration 3

5” to 6” 3000lb concrete slab re-enforced with ½” re- 1” to 2” ridged bar chris crossed and foam insulation spaced 12” apart and wire board under tied to 1/8” wire mesh concrete slab

Illustration 4

54”

Very important to make the rise and run of each step equal! It will help eliminate a miss step and possible injury

Entry and Exit Steps

In the cut away illustration 3 above you see a set of steps for entry and exit of the plunge pool. In this and the previous graphics we show steps that would measure about 18” wide with a rise of 8” and a run of 16”. This step set up would make entry and exit fairly easy especially for an elderly user. Local code may require at least one hand rail and they may call for a different rise and run on the step set up. Check local codes before you start.

Steps can have other dimensions and other placements but, it is important to (1) follow and local codes that could apply and (2) keep the rise and run consistent for all the steps, this is important to prevent misjudging a step and help prevent a possible fall resulting in an injury.

Although we don’t show them in the previous pictures and graphics, a light can be installed where ever you desire, a provision should also be made for a temperature sensor, (even if you don’t plan to heat this unit initially, you may change your mind), and you might want to consider installing an overflow pipe as I outline in my spa building manual, (optional).

Plumbing the Plunge Pool

The plumbing work required to run your plunge pool is not complicated at all. Even as an amateur working with PVC pipe and fittings for the first time you should have no trouble if you review the “how to info” I gave you on this subject in my Version 1 Spa Building book.

On the next page I’ll give you an outline of the basic plumbing requirements. Follow the diagram to see how to place the components you should incorporate in your set up, then we will discus a few options you may want to consider.

The plumbing system consists of suction lines and return lines; at least two of each coming into and going out of the water vessel are required. (1) Construction codes require at least 2 suction line ports for each pump spaced at least 24” to 36” apart. The suction ports will have anti-entrapment safety fittings and covers which are required by code. (This plunge pool doesn’t require a high volume pump for filtering unless you decide to add in some spa jets on the water return side). However, local codes my still require anti entrapment fittings and safety covers on the suction lines. Check before begin the plumbing.

During wall construction all you need to do is install two 10” to 12” lengths of 2” PVC pipe on the lower wall of one side of the plunge pool for the suction side of the system and two 10” to 12” lengths of 2” PVC pipe at the base of the opposite wall for the return side of the system. This promotes a constant circulation flow for better filtering during filter cycles. In addition to that you will need to install at least one skimmer, (sometimes 2), that you tie into the suction side piping of the plumbing system.

The 2” pipe and skimmer installation are covered in detail in my Version 1 Spa Building book. When finishing the plunge pool, the 2” PVC suction and return pipes get fitted with wall fittings with screw in grates or safety covers completing the finished look. Note: these fittings are available in limited color choices. Usually white, grey or black.

The water path will be from the water vessel to a water circulation/filter pump, (suction side), through the pump then to a filter and then the filtered water returns back the water vessel, (discharge side). It’s the same as with any other pool spa or hot tub. The water path could also go through a water heater and then maybe through a Salt Water Sanitizer system salt cell. (Salt systems are used for water purification without having to use messy packaged chemicals). So let’s take a look at what these basic plumbing systems look like in illustration 5 on the next page.

Not to Any Scale Illustration 5

Out In

From skimmer

Basic System

Ball Valves Pump Filter Ball Valve

Optional System Pump Filter Heater Salt cell

Shown in illustration 4 above is the filter set up and an alternative equipment set up incorporating a water heater and a Salt Water Sanitizer system for water purification. To run this system, we would use a simple pool timer that you set filter cycle durations with, or if you use a salt system, the control unit comes with a built in timer and a plug connection for a pump rated at up to 16amps.

Remember, when you are locating the inlets and outlets of the water vessel, bring the return lines in at the bottom of a wall and locate the suction fittings on the opposite wall. This will create a flow circulation and a good mixing for better filtration of the water.

To drain the water vessel, you have the same options as I outlined in my spa building book. You can either install a floor drain or you can tee off one of the suction/return lines. Another option is to just drop a small submergible sump pump in to the plunge pool to pump out the water when it needs to be changed. That’s pretty much all there is to the plumbing side of things. Next we will cover the electrical requirements for your plunge pool.

Electrical Requirements for a Plunge Pool

Here again the installation is straight forward. Refer back to my Version 1 Spa Building book for the basic electrical set up. What you’ll need is a supply line source of power tied into an all-weather GFCI disconnect box from which a power line will be run to your pumps filter timer, then a line runs on to the circulation pump, very basic electrical work but if you don’t feel comfortable doing this type of work, hire an electrician.

If you want a light in your Plunge pool, I would suggest using a 12V unit. You can put it on a remote outdoor GFCI protected light switch or dimmer switch that you would turn on prior to getting in the plunge pool and turn off after you get out. No electrical units or boxes can be within 5’ of the Plunge pool. A low voltage (12V) light may be the only exception. Check your local codes.

If you intend to heat your Plunge pool with natural gas or propane, I lean toward using a “millivolt” standing pilot type heater. They don’t require any external electrical power source, just a gas supply line. These units fire up when water circulation is detected and a heat demand is detected as well. In some states now you can only use electronic ignition gas heaters, so check the requirements for you state.

If you heat your Plunge pool with electric heat, the simplest set up would be to install an inline electric heater that works on heat demand and flow. A built in pressure switch detects that there is flow and allows the heater element to be energized. These units are simple to install and are located on the discharge side of the filter pump. They typically require 220 Volts and wire to at least a double pole 20amp GFI breaker in an electrical supply box no closer than 5’ to your Plunge pool.

Finishing Up Your Plunge Pool

The finish work for a Plunge pool is no different than what we do for a spa, hot tub or swim spa. You would skim coat the walls to smooth them up then apply your water proof pool paint. Self priming epoxy pool paint is a common choice or you can use a coat of epoxy pool paint primer then the color coat. You could also do a just a tile boarder and top cap if you like or full tile walls and floor, or no tile at all, it’s totally up to your particular tastes and desired finished look goals.

Ok, now let’s take a look at a cost break down and see what the expenses for a Plunge pool might total up to be. Keep in mind that costs around the country will vary widely. What I’m going to show you here will be based on what one could expect to pay in my area of CT.

Plunge Pool Cost Breakdown Estimates

1. Minimal Excavation $ 200.00

2. Concrete for base pad, 3yds at $125.00/yd. $ 375.00

3. Rebar rods $ 50.00

4. Wire mesh $ 50.00

5. 8” X 8” X 16” cement block (approx. 200) @ 1.50ea. $ 300.00

6. 20 bags of mortar mix 80lb ea. $4.00ea $ 80.00

7. Plumbing supplies, (PVC pipe and fittings) $ 100.00

8. Waterproofing and pool/spa paints $ 250.00

9. 100sq’ cartridge filter and 1/2HP filter pump $ 575.00

10. GFCI disconnect box and filter timer $ 100.00

11. Electrician $ 250.00

12. Miscellaneous items $ 100.00 Total: $2430.00

Options

1. Inline electric heater unit 5.5KW $ 465.00

2. Natural Gas or Propane heater: additional cost approx. $ 1700.00

3. Salt Water Sanitation system $ 995.00

4. Single light, (12V color changing unit) $ 280.00

There you have it, a nice plunge pool for about $2500.00 – not to shabby. I can almost guarantee you that a commercial contractor would charge you no less than $8,000 to build you this unit. You saved yourself a ton of money now go on and enjoy!

Thanks again for your book purchase and don’t forget to send us some pictures of your finished Plunge pool project along with your comments. We’d like to post them on our website and brag about you and your project.

Gene Trumbull

Custom Built Spas, Hot tubs, Swim Spas Exercise Pools and Plunge pools

(Pricing based on current estimates and subject to change and cost variables)