Volume 32

Carne Creek, Issue 3 Newnes Plateau Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Then and Now

rom 1930 to 2007 - on the Jump Back requested more legroom, so they were 3 inches Pass or the ‘one in four’ This road off the longer in the body. Locally they were known as Fend of McMahons Lookout (Bimlow “New Beautys.” Topographic Map) was a key access for the The road surface 77 years on is in excellent residents of the Burragorang Valley. condition but off limits. The 1930’s pictures are from the John The car in the pictures is The Improved ‘A’ Hollingdale collection. The car is a 1930 Model Sport Coupe. For petrol heads wanting more A Ford. The car was different to the previous US consult The History of Ford in , by made vehicles as the Australian salesmen had Norm Darwin, 1969, page 50.

2 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker From the editor’s desk. . . The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW he front cover for this issue is filmed in one of the more challenging Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 areas of the western Blue Mountains - Carne Creek. Located on the ISSN 0313 2684 Twestern edge of the Wollemi NP (and should be incorporated in it, subsurface mining notwithstanding). The unique combination of canyons, pagodas, narrow fingers of land and variety of micro- environments make it Editor: Michael Keats one of my favourite exploring grounds. Bushwalking colleagues Stephen [email protected] Murray and Tom Brennan agreed to ‘experience the vertigo’ so that this shot Graphic Design: Barry Hanlon could bring you some idea of the huge dimensions involved. Confederation Officers: Inside the front cover are some memories of times past - of a valley now lost President: Margaret Covi to bushwalking. As I culled the collection for this material I reflected on how [email protected] fortunate we are to have so many very dedicated and skilled bushwalking Administration Officer: historians, who are documenting and recording for posterity the changing [email protected] times. Even so, much is still being lost when well- intentioned relatives clean up after a deceased bushwalker by ‘chucking out all that rubbish.’ Website: www.bushwalking.org.au Andy Macqueen, Brian Fox, Jim Smith, Jim Barrett, Wilf Hilder, Robert Sloss - are just a few names on a distinguished list of bushwalking historians. Address all correspondence to: Jim Smith’s dedication to understanding and researching and documenting PO Box 2090, GPO, 2001 our rapidly disappearing Aboriginal culture is to be applauded. Having a podium such as this inspires me to implore all of you ‘to record The Confederation of Bushwalking the bush’ in words and pictures as you see it. The pressure of our so-called Clubs NSW Inc represents civilization puts it at increasing risk almost daily. approximately 65 Clubs with a total Articles in this issue record the sterling work of the BWRS in saving lives; A membership of about 10,000 search for the Wolgan Pillars; overseas adventures in Nepal; recognition of a bushwalkers. Dog called Ben; the magic of Yerranderie country; ANZAC Day 2007 at Formed in 1932, the Confederation Splendour Rock and more. provides a united voice on behalf of all To ‘sit in the chair’ of editor Roger Caffin even for one issue of the bushwalkers on conservation, access Bushwalker is a privilege accorded very few. Without upsetting too many egos and other issues. I hope that the selection of articles together with their excellent photo images It runs training courses for members, meets with your approval. Without the enthusiastic and dedicated assistance helps to provide a free wilderness of Barry Hanlon this issue would not have appeared on time. Thank you Barry. search and rescue organisation, and helps runs bush navigation Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the competitions. official opinions of the Confederation or any Club. The acting editor’s opinions People interested in joining a are just that - his opinions. bushwalking club may write to the Michael Keats Confederation Administration, at the Acting Editor address above, for a list of Clubs, but a more up-to-date version can be found on the Confederation website at www.bushwalking.org.au, broken up into areas. There’s lots of other good stuff there too. Index

Then and Now 2 From the Editor’s Desk 3 The Almost Makalu Base Camp 4

Subscribe to The Bushwalker A Whole Different View of Kanangra 6 Keep up with all the news and developments In Search of the Wolgan Pillars 8 happening in the NSW bushwalking scene for only $10 per year. This is to cover posting and Day Walk Across Cathedral Rock 10 handling: the magazine itself is free. A Dog Called Ben 11 Send your name and address and cheque or money order to Confederation of Bushwalking Conscript Pass 11 Clubs NSW, PO Box 2090, GPO Sydney 2001. Make the cheque or money order payable to Batsch Camp to Yerranderie 12 the Confederation as well. Anzac Day 2007 at Splendor Rock 12 Also please indicate if you are a member of a bushwalking club, and if not whether you Review — “Adventure Journal 2007” 13 would like a copy of the list of our clubs. Walkers Wild Weeding in Southwest Tasmania 14

Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Almost Makalu Base Camp Trip is done by hand. Large rocks are broken up by sledgehammers and used in retaining walls for the road. Dirt is moved about mainly by pulling it along on hessian sacking (virtually no wheel- barrows!). The local villagers do all the work: men, women and children (some very young!). Normally we slept in tents, two to each tent, but at Num (day 5) we faced torrential rain that forced us into accom- modation that the locals would use. The accommodation was spartan: made of mud bricks, no electricity, no glass windows, just small openings with wooden shutters and the beds were hard as nails. Yet this was heaven in com- parison with the prospect of getting cosy with soggy campground -isn’t everything relative? Several days later we camped at Tashigoan (2000 metres). That night most discussion was centred on the next days climb to Khongma Lha, which would Chris Bennett, hour's flight. The landing on grass was a elevate us, another 1400 metres to a very The Bush Club, Sydney first for most. There we met our support respectable 3400m. Naturally, thoughts of crew, (chief guide, sherpas, cook, kitchen altitude sickness and the difficulty that lay ur Bush Club group of ten flew staff and porters). Yes, they numbered 26 ahead pervaded our thought, but, as so out from Sydney on April 4, to look after our group of 10! often happens, the climb was not as hard Oovernighted in Bangkok and flew Everything has to be carried. The loads as we imagined. into Kathmandu the next day. At they bore and the ease with which the We started to reach temperate/sub Kathmandu airport one of the questions porters would traverse over all types of alpine regions. Towards the later part of on the customs form is whether you are terrain was nothing short of unbelievable. the day we hit snow and what a feeling it carrying more than the equivalent of two For our trek, each porter carried about 40 was going through forests of snow- thousand American greenbacks. Given kilos; village porters, who carry goods covered rhododendrons. We wondered if that we were to pay the trekking company between villages, loads can be up to 70 Kaye’s Dunlop volleys would hold up. in cash, we all answered yes to the kilos. Later in the trek, Bob hoisted a t Khongma Lha our sherpa guide question. The officials don’t really look at porter’s load on his back. I think he soon Abecame the messenger that so often the forms, so you just hand them in and realised he shouldn’t give up his day job. plays the target for some easy shooting walk through. So we individually did not have to when he relayed the news that due to However, one of our group, John, carry much - a daypack with water, rain severe snow conditions ahead we would perhaps under the influence of his South gear, munchies, camera etc. Typically not be able to get to our ultimate African heritage, felt compelled to each day we walked for 5 to 7 hours. destination of Makalu base camp and personally explain to an official what he The first night we camped at would need to turn back. Apparently just had written. The Nepalese bureaucracy Khandbari the largest town of the region. before we arrived in Nepal, they exper- quickly flung into action, but fortunately, Khandbari dogs undergo a Jekyll and ienced the largest April snowstorm in 40 after a long twenty minutes, he emerged Hyde transformation - docile by day, years - great timing hey. Understandably into the sunlight unscathed but wiser. Hounds of Baskerville by night. Curious we all were disappointed, but this trip Nima our Nepalese trek organiser then children surrounded us as we camped in was a lot more than just reaching a greeted us. If ever struck for the correct the villages, captivated at the images on destination, the journey was the English response to a question, especially our digital cameras. In this setting John experience. one which featured the word ‘money’, and Helen came to Nima’s response was steadfastly the fore and consistent: “yes please”. displayed a wond- The drive from the airport bisected an erful ability to unfortunate socio-economic truth: to the entertain and hold left, typical third world conditions and on their attention. the right a private golf links for the Many of the privileged few. Prior to starting the trek smaller villages we we had a couple of days in Kathmandu. passed through did When returning from a monkey temple not have electricity; we encountered a massive traffic jam, some did have evidently caused by a queue of people satellite phones bound together like a conga chain. As our powered by solar vehicle slowly moved down the crowded energy. street there was no sign that the queue couple of days had an end. Eventually, about four Ainto the trek and kilometres later our rough estimate would the track was begin- have been twenty thousand or more. And ning to open up - the reason for the Guinness-worthy literally. A rudim- attempt at the longest human chain: the entary road was issuing of new mobile phone sim cards! being constructed. Things we take for granted assume a Road construction in different importance in Nepal. the West is highly On April 7 we flew east from automated but not Kathmandu to Tumlingtar - about one out here - everything The local children were always fascinated by the trekkers' activities

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

We stayed one more day in time that Trish and Kaye were Khongma Lha and all of us in their birthday suits a portly climbed about 200 metres bearded Englishman with higher, a few made it 300 about 20 support staff metres further. Spectacular appeared, once again, great mountain views ensued and no timing hey. He did make some photo could ever capture the comments, which I will not feeling of being on top of the repeat here, but apparently all world. the porters had wide grins on he next day we faced the their faces at the sight of these T1400 metre descent from naked nymphs. Khongma to Tashigoan. The We continued our return first part was through the journey and after 5 days snow. Most of the kitchen staff arrived back at Tumlingtar for and porters left before us but, the flight back to Kathmandu. curiously, were asked to wait As per tradition on this night before we descended. We the support staff received their couldn’t quite work out why well-earned gratuity. As a we should not start our group we then presented an Typical scenery in the lower areas of the Makalu Trek descent but when all the acted out rendition of Waltz- kitchen staff and porters ing Matilda. Erith played a fine got on incredibly well. for most Nepalese yet they still climbed back the answer was jumbuck and obviously It was Disraeli who said laugh and smile and I think we clear. Apparently we as a enjoyed being stuffed into a there are lies, damned lies, all realised what a privileged group were perceived as (to tucker-bag. For some reason, and statistics. Our trek stats: life we have in the west. use ‘western speak’) requiring the group decided that a New 10500 metres climbed in the And finally a large thanks “individualised value-added Zealander - me - should have first trek, 13100 metres in to our leader Tony for his aged-care services”. So a the starring role of the swag- total for both treks. Point of planning, leadership and helper took each of us by the man. Maybe they thought my reference: Mt Everest is 9800 patience. Without Tony this hand individually, and we acting skills would be better metres. trek would not have taken merrily went on our way than my singing skills. The Each of us had our own place. down, looking a little like a night concluded with a slow reasons for undertaking this Moonie group wedding. gyrating Nepalese dance. trek but for me it was to be out The trekkers: Tony Hickson (leader), At the end of the day, Fortunately learning the lyrics of my comfort zone, to be in a nearing Tashigoan, we passed Jacqui Hickson, Kaye Birch, Trish did not require mental vastly different culture, to be Molinari, John Wilson, Bob Wood, Erith a fast-flowing mountain inspiration - recite one verse part of a team and of course to Hamilton, John de Coque, Helen stream, about 20 minutes then repeat, repeat and repeat. be close to the world’s highest Fastovsky and Chris Bennett. before campsite. Normally our By the end of the night Jacqui mountains. Life is very tough body washing was limited to seemed to be getting the hang the bowl of warm water each of it. evening, so the prospect of o the Makalu trek turned being able to wash all the body Sout to be two weeks was very attractive as fasting is instead of the originally to Paris Hilton. So after we set planned twenty days. Most of up camp Bob, John W, Trish, the group went on to do Kaye and myself went back. another five-day trek in the The men, not wanting to Helambu region, at a lower flaunt their tired bodies, went altitude, whilst I decided to down stream and discreetly head home. They no doubt completed their bathing. had a fun time on that trip, but However, Trish and Kaye that’s a story for another day. decided to bathe right by the There are many stories of path. In the two weeks of trekking in Nepal bringing out trekking we only saw three the worst in people but I’m Europeans but at the exact pleased to report our group all

Camp at Chongma should have been on grassy flats

Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club A Whole Different View of Kanangra Caro Ryan, BWRS attending. (But this is also why we need more people to join us!). When you get a phone call from a As so many of you know, respected leader to spend a Kanangra Walls is not an Q weekend hanging around easy place to get to. It is Cloudmaker and Strongleg in handy to know that there perfect early Autumn conditions, are BWRS members all over you’d be crazy to say no. Right? Sydney and NSW, who are willing to car share. And so it was that myself and another local member set A Absolutely Right! out from Neutral Bay at 8.30pm Friday bound for the But this was a phone call with a catch and Boyd Crossing an agenda. And as an operational campsite. At midnight we member of the Bushwalkers Wilderness bunked down in the shelter Rescue Squad (BWRS), it is phone calls shed for a good sleep, like this that I’m starting to get used to. surrounded by tents of And it’s phone calls like this, that I invite school holiday makers, you to start receiving. allowing us for a fresh start The call came on Thursday evening at 8am for a big day ahead. Discussing search patterns and the instructions were to report to the You probably heard the base at Kanangra Walls carpark at 8am on news reports of this missing bushwalker. unit of the Volunteer Rescue Association Friday morning. Because of work He was seen on Easter Friday at Gabes who come under the authority of the commitments I was unable to attend on Gap and then never heard from again. State Rescue Board. It’s the State Rescue Friday, however I was able to join the Like me, you probably came up with a few Board who are the body given the ranks of searchers on Saturday. This is thoughts on where or what might have responsibility by the NSW State one of the great things about our squad of become of him and it is within a Government to ensure the state is willing volunteers. There is an structured organisation, such as the prepared for all types of disasters, rescue understanding that people have work and BWRS, that you’re able to have these or emergencies. It is the body that sets the other things that can stop you from thoughts heard and actually get out there accreditation and training standards of all and do something rescue services in NSW, including Police about it. Rescue, Rural Fire Service, State It’s these Emergency Service and Volunteer Rescue thoughts, matched Association. with your Having this structure and clear chain experience as a of command is comforting and gives us a bushwalker, that definite and firm foundation and would make you a framework for all our operations and valuable asset to decisions. In the field this is translated what the Police into us understanding our role within the Rescue leaders on rescue team, not only at command base, site called, ‘our but also out in the bush. primary search We are the only voluntary organisation resource in called on by the Police who focus solely wilderness areas’. on skills in wilderness and bush areas. As The BWRS a group, we come from all walks of life started life as a and from all areas across NSW. We meet, consequence of a mix, walk and train with people from search in the Grose many different clubs, backgrounds and Valley in 1936 when experiences. We are invited to gain a party of four training through nationally accredited young men failed to courses, being offered free of charge to return from a three- members. These courses include such day trip. It was modules as VM (Vertical Mobility), V1- famous walkers of 3,i.e. abseiling (as well as the opportunity the day such as of being accredited as a trainer), Paddy Pallin and navigation, first aid, helicopter winch Max Gentle, who training, casualty transport, RAVA were involved in the (Remote Area Vertical Access), tracking search that decided techniques and radio communications just an organisation of to name a few. experienced walkers ur training and skills are being was needed for Oincreasingly called upon as we have future searches. proved ourselves to Police Rescue Back then, it was command in not only the two recent high known as the Search profile searches, such as this Kanangra and Rescue unit of one and the search for David Iredale the the Federation of 17 year old teenager lost in the Jamison Bushwalkers, and Valley just before Christmas. There have these days it is also been many searches with less media known as the attention. But it’s not about media Bushwalkers attention and the kudos in doing Wilderness Rescue something heroic… It is about putting our Squad, a member abilities to good use within our

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club community. It’s about going bush for Unfortunately, it reasons other than ourselves. doesn’t matter how On arriving at the Kanangra carpark, experienced you are there was already a steady stream of as a bush person, Police and SES vehicles, not to mention unless you’re a the thump, thump, thump sound from the member of a first of three helicopters that would be recognised squad, working the search over the weekend. you can’t be Polair 1, 2 and the NPWS chopper - taking involved in off from the cleared area just past the low searches. Being a fence line to the south of the carpark. member of BWRS With the search area running from the meant that I was carpark north to the Cox’s River, west to able to be part of the steeps on both sides of Kanangra the solution. Creek, east to Ti Willa and south to the he fact is that , for efficiency it was Tyour skills and essential to hitch rides with the various your experience are choppers. All members who did so were needed. The Police speaking enthusiastically of the buzz of a are now looking to helicopter ride over the walls and down us in BWRS, that is, - Thurat Spires rising experienced majestically as they swept up the valley. bushwalkers to be Different teams were dropped at a variety out in the field with of landing spots such as Ti Willa plateau, skills that they Mt Moorilla Mooroo, Konangaroo don’t have. For us Dave Drohan using HF radio above Moko Creek Clearing (where several teams camped), to be able to be beaches along the Cox’s and some involved every time we get called, we Check out the website for all the details: members getting the ride of their life as need to ensure that we have enough www.bwrs.org.au they were winched up from the depths of operational members, trained up and Moko Creek. It was here that the chopper ready. The reality is that we are very crew were overheard reporting on the short on members. Not just people to get Some employers, particularly the radio to Police Rescue their astonishment out in the field, but even people at base to public service, allow staff days at our ability to be in such rugged terrain. operate radios and be involved at off for voluntary community And of course our winching out of down administrative levels. service leave and the squad can stream Dex Creek, during which There are already a good number of provide you with letters from the extrication the unfortunate discovery of SBW people who are also members or Police to confirm your the missing person was made around trainees in the BWRS. Why don’t you participation in a search. midday on Sunday. become one too?

Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

the buildings and other structures used to pictures were taken even though the be. weather was dull with low cloud. The rusting and decaying relics of an We them moved out onto an old grazing property started about GR 497 unsupported projecting platform that was 260 and continued for several hundred even more ‘Wow’ than earlier, (GR 505 metres. Of particular interest was an old 225). We were euphoric with our McCormick - Deering Tractor with the discovery of a doable route up these cliffs rubber tyres still intact. It made a good that are just over 200m high. We could photographic subject, as did an old chair see easy ways forward from this point to and other artifacts. explore so much more. To the south of Being an exploratory walk and always our little platform was a great vertical on the lookout for something a bit cliff with a drop in excess of 100m. It challenging, we left the track at GR 505 glowed pink and fawn in the afternoon 238, (the topo map is quite inaccurate in light. More pictures. showing the location of the track) and We reviewed our rapidly diminishing headed into wild, deeply dissected time allocation to get down and make country with multiple ravines, many rocks dinner while there was some daylight. As and lots of fallen timber. The further in it was there was simply not enough time we penetrated the more challenging this to go further. We needed several days… area became. At GR 498 230 a relatively, as we descended I mused on a name for flat cleared area big enough for the group this Pass. My choice is to name it Yerra to make camp resolved out of the bush. It Yerra Pass deriving from an Aboriginal is about 100m from the Deanes Creek - dialect for ‘sharp’ or ‘tooth-like.’ We Rocky Creek junction. This was going to entered camp full of enthusiasm for the be our base campsite and coincidently discovery and rapidly moved into happy also lunch as it was 1330. hour mode… Whilst munching away we gazed was first up at 0600, coaxed the fire across Rocky Creek to the cliffs above - Iinto life and boiled water for tea. Geoff the northern edge of the Mount Cameron emerging from his tent reckoned he had Below the Pillars Plateau. Most of this plateau is shown on one of the best nights rest he could the Rock Hill sheet. We mused and remember. Left camp at 0730 - our speculated that once camp was objective to view the famed Wolgan established perhaps we could scale these Pillars. As we negotiated the way of route cliffs and find a way to the top. There are back to the Trail we kept magnificent ‘orphan rocks’ and toothed glancing up at Yerra Yerra Pass. Maybe if Michael Keats and barbed projections into the sky all we returned early enough and if we had The Bush Club around the area. If we could find a way of the energy we could give it another go… route, then such an access would open up 0800 we returned to GR 505 237 possibilities for camping on the plateau where a cairn marks the take off point for and doing pack walks from Natural Bridge the way of route to our camp. It is not he gateway to the walk is Newnes - right through to Newnes. The options for really to identify the way to our camp - it a vestigial ghost town where the exploring would be endless and only is a marker for any walker wanting to Tworld’s richest deposit of kerosene constrained by available water. explore Rocky Creek or Deanes Creek shale oil (yielding up to 720 litres/tonne) At 1445 camp was well established and above the junction. was first exploited in 1905. The town and water drawn from Deanes Creek, so we The topo map shows the Wolgan River the various coal and shale enterprises commenced our cliff assault armed with trail on the wrong side of the river for the finally came to an end due to the carefully packed daypacks. There was a next 4km. The trail is on the north side, combined effects of cheap imports, the bit of rain in the air and in spots a bit One of the teeth of the Yerra Yerra Pass Great Depression and the transfer of more on the undergrowth of the lower moveable useful assets to Glen Davis to slopes. After a while we were wet so more extract shale oil during WW2. wetness did not matter. Anthea had We drove up to the historic (and now elected to stay in camp and tend the fire, unlicensed) Newnes Hotel and had a short (although she would have preferred to chat to Thomas Ebersoll, owner and part have some kip!). As we emerged from the time operator of modern chalet type lower slopes the cliffs started to look accommodation for visitors planning an rather steep. They are. easy explore of the industrial ruins. After e could discern a possible way and briefing Thomas on our plans we said we Was each obstacle was overcome we would join him two days later in the pushed on to the next. I did some afternoon for coffee. interesting balancing on an old log across Our way of route took us along Benby’s an impossible ravine before Ian and John Pinch and then through some of the old found a much easier rock climb. Oh well, Shale Oil processing plant ruins as we them’s the breaks. Soon the top of the first climbed the track on the talus slope big climb was conquered. We emerged opposite Petries Gully. Spent some time onto a small level area that led to a admiring the massive and beautifully commanding view to the north and east. crafted brick retaining wall that used to It was real wow stuff. Real Wow! The protect the Exhauster House and view, which was cut off to the west by a Ammonia Scrubbing Plant (circa 1934). sheer cliff allowed us to see up the The brickwork is as sound today 80 years Wolgan River for several kilometres and on as it was when constructed. Large similarly downstream to where the eucalypts now crowd the platform where Wolgan turns sharply south. Lots of

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

We could now understand why rock climbers just love these pillars. They are possibly over 100m high and have outward curved as well as straight sides and just enough distance from the main rock face to present a real challenge. Now we know why there are no spectacular pictures of “The Wolgan Pillars” - they just do not present that way. Although we would have been a good 300m from The Pillars we took photos and I had an inward chuckle how I had duped myself into believing that we would see soaring, freestanding pillars in the middle of the valley. I also now know why bushwalkers can walk right passed them and yet not see them. As none of us had a desire to return the way we had come we took a bearing and headed NE generally and wended our way down to the Wolgan River. The river was reached at 1130 and the famous wire cattle yards at 1150, GR 558 229. These There is only one way Ian and John on top of the Yerra Yerra Pass yards have been constructed using plaited wire cable that has now been just passed by. 0940 there was a not the south as shown. With only incorporated into the trees that were revisiting of the old grazing property and daypacks to contend with our progress originally selected as corner posts. Any some inspection of the derelict sheds. A was rapid. There are flourishing beds of animal impounded in these yards would cache of dated empty beer bottles put the nettles along much of the trail and we all have no chance of escape. last phase of occupation between 1965 had our share of tingling reminders for ay three dawned bright and sunny. and 1967. many hours. DJust after 0630 the cliffs above Thomas was a genial host with tea and Along here we did also have the joy of Deanes Creek glowed as the sun and then plunger coffee- served on the verandah two majestic red tailed black cockatoos the whole valley complex was illuminated. while we ate our lunches at a table - a giving us a colour show and noisy Under such circumstances we made a fire gentle re-introduction to the civilised reception. It is something to see these for tea and then began the sad process of world. I will be back as the door has only birds where they belong - in the wild. breaking camp. As we were packing up just opened on the possibilities to do so As we approached the area where the the brilliant morning was disappearing much in this area. Pillars are supposed to be an all out effort fast as the clouds was made to climb every high peak in returned. search of these iconic pillars that we 0805 the understood were something very special. campsite was cleared Kathmandu 17th October 2007 It was not until we were standing on the and we filed out. very last little knoll (1100) as shown on There were some the map that the penny dropped. The spectacular plays of 19 DAY CAMPING TREK pillars are there but they are like Hanging light on the ‘teeth’ of Rock in the Grose Gorge - huge sections of the Yerra Yerra Pass, 2 NIGHTS KATHMANDU cliff about to calve off and sometime, way so more pictures in the future they will crash into the valley were captured. Once 3 NIGHTS POKHARA below. For the moment they are only on the fire trail we This is the true meaning of trekking in the Himalayas, pristine discernable as separate pillars when the soon got into an easy mountain views, rich culture and unreal adventure sum up this trek light casts a shadow and you can see their rhythm of walking experience around the 8156m Manaslu. Tourists are definitely not an separation from the cliff! and the kilometres attraction here as few people have the privilege to visit this pristine Corner post of the ‘Wire Yards’ area surrounded by snow-clad mountains, lush green valleys and dense forests. The people become more distinctly Buddhist as their links with Tibet increase, monasteries and Tibetan monks await us in Larkya Bazaar, along with the biggest challenge - crossing Larkya La (pass.) After crossing the pass we traverse west, through high valleys and isolated yak pastures to Nup-ri, 'the western mountains, with simply amazing views of Manaslu 8163m and it's companion Himal Chuli 7893m. This 3 week excursion will leave you with a sense of peace and respect for the people of Nepal and its ecological wonders.

FULL CAMPING TREK $3600 per person *19 Day Fully supported camping trek including all meals. * 2 Nights accommodation Kathmandu 3 nights accom. Pokhara incl. B’fast *English Speaking Guide and Aust. Group Leader *Transport to and from trek *Special Trekking Permit for Manaslu area *trekking Permit for Annapurna area*Conservation Fees *Flight to Pokhara/Ktm US$79 * sightseeing Kathmandu/Pokhara

PO BOX 947 MONA VALE NSW 1660 Tel: 02 9997 7442 Email: [email protected] www.tayloradventure.com

Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Day walk across Cathedral Rock

David Lawrence

photos by Colin Wood

e were a split party, with 1 Soon the chilly summit wind blew us Pennyworts and Daisies and Forget-Me- driving solo from Guyra to park back down, and we were glad to hit the Nots and Bluebells- it’s a wonderland for Wat Native Dog, and the Armidale junction of the main track to eat our those who tread carefully into the soggy contingent coming in three cars (needed lunches out of the wind. We chatted stuff. Gradually tiny streamlets appeared, for the car shuttle). Dropping most off at about other trips- which covered a fair bit and we crossed Native Dog Creek - just a Barokee, cars and drivers headed around of the world, as James, Yuval and couple feet wide- to arrive at our cars to Native Dog. Somewhere on the way Mohammed were visiting from their home about 4 o’clock. We farewelled Penelope James had a puncture and found that his countries-and the bushwalker perennials for her solitary drive home via Guyra and wheelbrace didn’t fit his wheel nuts. of best footwear and foodstuffs for points north, and shuttled our cars round Luckily, Betty was behind him, with one walking. Our late start meant we soon to pick up the lone car at Barokee. Then that fitted- though oddly enough, not her packed and headed on to across the park. home by dark after a very pleasant 17 wheelnuts! There’s a lesson there A few hundred metres further on, at km, our last autumn walk for 2007. somewhere. Anyway, a change of tyre and the northern junction of the track around they arrived around Native Dog, left two Cathedral Rock, we passed through a cars, and all drivers headed back to mini-forest of Mountain Honeysuckle, the Maps Barokee. tall banksia common around these parts. With the shuttle and the puncture, it In spring, you’ll see Orchids, Buttercups 1:250 000 Armidale Special SH56-10 was close to 11 before we all assembled and Native Violets, especially around the Edition 2 and started off. The day was fine, with a watercourses in these parts. We also saw a (Not needed on the track walks) high overcast and a hint of clouds to the weird little plant that looks like a 40 cm 1:25000 “Ebor” East. We walked the good track past Christmas tree- Bushy Clubmoss. It is a 1.25000 “Maiden Creek” small granite tors and open grassy something of a relic from early days of the NPWS Cathedral Rock (sketch map) woodland of Messmate Stringybark, plant kingdom, from before seed plants Mountain Gum, New England Blackbutt evolved- but is widespread, and grows and Hill Banksia, with an understorey of happily beside the track in a few places. Snow Grass and Bracken Fern, and An hour or so later, we reached a arrived at the southern start of the significant stream divide. Behind us, all Cathedral Rock circuit on our right after the waters flowed south via the Oaky, For more information: about 850 metres. Ignoring that, we Chandler and Macleay to enter the Pacific NPWS North Coast Region, walked on for another 1.25 km to the at South West Rocks. In front of us, they Dorrigo Plateau Office, ridge junction for the Cathedral Rock ran north via the Guy Fawkes, Boyd, climb. Nymboida and Clarence to meet the PO Box 170, Dorrigo NSW 2453. The smaller track was pretty clear, Pacific north of Yamba. The divide is Ph: 02 66572 309. with directional arrows where it crossed crowned with granite tors, to about 1400 open rock expanses. However, if you metres at Woolpack Rocks. We had a lazy weren’t watching for the next arrow, it afternoon tea here, and spread out the would be quite easy to find you’d strayed map so Penelope off into some rocky cul-de-sac- or over could point out some cliff edge. We took our time, and Crown Mountain were careful of our footing as we crept up and Nightcap between, over and once under the Mountain, near her jumbled mass of granite tors that leads up place about 56 to the summit. The last 15 metres is a kilometres away to matter of hanging onto a chain (which the Nor NorWest. looked strong enough to lift several oon we moved elephants) while edging around a boulder Son, to skirt the and up to the top. swamps that are a The high point is at about 1550 major feature of the metres, with a view that is almost 360 park. They are degrees, with just the top of Round richly endowed with Mountain at 1584 blocking a slice to the sedges and rushes, southwest. The cloud we’d seen earlier including the was cloaking Point Lookout and another “Button Grass” so slice of the horizon to the east, but in well known to between we could pick out many of the Tasmanian walkers, landmarks of the Eastern New England- plus a lovely array of Chandlers Peak, Mount Duval and the Spring-Summer Macleay Valley. flowers- Lilies and The party gathering on the weather worn granite

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club A Dog Called Ben

Brian Fox.

alter Herbert Botting spectacular photo of the water (1887-1985) commonly flowing over the falls. Wreferred to as Wally by A sad occurrence happened his mates even though his mother when Ben was 14 years old, the day called him Bert was just one of started just like any other with Katoomba’s original bush track Wally and his faithful companion makers. accompanying each other to work. Wally as I shall refer to him On this particular day Wally was migrated to Australia from England clearing the track near the base of as a young man and was employed the landslide when a tree fell and by the Katoomba Municipal Council killed his beloved Ben. and later Blue Mountains City Years later after Wally had also Council as a Ranger from 1913 to passed away, Vera Smith his retirement in 1953. Wally had a (daughter) wrote to the Blue faithfully little dog which he named Mountains City Council to request Ben born about 1926. When Ben if a lookout could be named in her was fully grown he was Wally’s father’s honour. Whether by constant companion. Vera Smith, accident or design the council Wally’s daughter described Ben as allocated a viewing area 180 “A great little mate to the family metres below the top of the Golden Quite Achiever — Walter Botting and sadly missed”. Stairs off Glenraphael Drive, Wally as a ranger was involved Narrow Neck in a number of track making which is now projects around Katoomba and known as Bottings Leura these included areas near Lookout. This Katoomba Cascades, Leura Falls, lookout has direct Giant Stairway, Prince Henry Cliff views across to Walk and Wally helped to clear the the Katoomba track after the Katoomba Landslide landslide where in 1931. Wally and Ben When Wally was working in this spent there last area he would use the coal skips or time together. as it is today the Scenic Railway to carry himself and his tools to and t this lookout from his work place, when he was Aa brass working at the Leura end he daily plaque has the used the steel ladders which led to words inscribed the old sewage works. Wally “This lookout is usually worked alone or with dedicated to Ranger James McKay and each day Walter Botting when Wally went out to work his (1887-1985). A faithful dog Ben went with him. pioneer track- Some of the unusual things that maker of the Wally did included during times of Katoomba drought damming up the water District. upstream of and His spirit remains then releasing the flow of water so always in the photographers could obtain a mountains”.

in Flanders fields… now demand more Conscript Pass blood, the interest on their lives…” The men working on this Pass who eep in the valley, Why? It was a tumultuous time. The created these images were echoing Lang’s in pleasant side creek is a small Premier, Jack Lang had just been sacked words: they were still conscripts to British Dstream. The Great North Walk by the Governor, the men faced unem- Banks, and their unemployment would be crosses the stream a few metres ahead, ployment, and an uncertain future. ‘interest demanded’, on top of the and a little further on is ‘Conscript Pass’. Bertram Stevens, the man who replaced thousands of lives so tragically lost in The ‘Pass’ is a narrow gap between two Lang was the object of the caricature. Flanders and Gallipoli large sandstone outcrops. A gully on the Why was it called Conscript Pass? The So here in this quiet reach of Sydney's left is covered in leaf litter but also sports economic uncertainties probably evoked bushland, standing in the heart of the the carved words, ‘Conscript Pass’. There in the men’s minds, Jack Lang’s oratory Northern Suburbs, is a poignant record of is nearby, also an engraved caricature of a when he burst out against the iniquity of Lang’s oratory and a rare echo of those well-dressed man. This site was created by the Bank of England’s plan to ‘fix the difficult years. a work gang in the 1930’s, part of a public currency’. Lang, in his powerful style works program during the Great thundered, “The same people who Based on research by Depression. conscripted our sons and laid them to rest Garry MacDougall

Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Batsch Camp to Yerranderie Anzac Day 2007 at Splendour Rock Easter 2007 arly on the morning of April plate of freshly cooked lamb & On day 4, we walked E24, I set out for the Blue vegies, which we devoured upstream along the open Mountains with a small group Steve Deards with gusto. creek, only occasionally from my club. From the carpark Sutherland Bushwalking Club Day two we did some having to push through at Carlons Farm we walked over exploring. Firstly, climbing thickets of spiny Bursaria. This the stile onto the fire trail. It was Yerranderie Peak, where there plant, although a native, is drizzly all day so we covered up hree of us drove to Mt are great views of the taking over the area, & the in rain gear before we started. At Werong on Thursday surrounding area. On our way banks of the Kowmung are Breakfast Creek we stopped for Tafternoon & camped at down, we detoured to Bartlett now lined with it. The weather lunch, then continued to Medlow the abandoned hut. It was Head. It was so nice there on had been iffy all weekend, Gap, and before long picked up rather cool during the night, the flat rock plateau that we with sporadic showers & sun, the side track off to Mobbs getting down to seven degrees. stayed quite a while, enjoying making the vegetation wet & Swamp. Past the swamp the We met George, the guy who the view, the occasional unpleasant to walk through. track took us on to the turnoff to had originally built the hut, sunshine & lunch. After We had morning tea at the Splendour Rock. Here we who was visiting the area after descending to the road, we “Roman Bath”, a pretty rock climbed up through the rock many years absence. He had a walked down to the Tonalli few interesting yarns to spin. River, where we checked out Sandra & Lloyd arrived early an old campsite of mine. I was the next day, then we all drove disappointed as the river was down to Batsch Camp from very low & the camp was where we started the walk. overgrown. We investigated an Our route took us through old mine shaft, but couldn’t open country to Bent Hook find the swimming hole with swamp, which we followed the nearby. Nobody easterly until it got very seemed inclined to want to scrubby. We then headed walk through the wet bush to north to Mt Myanga, Roaring look for it, so we returned to Wind Mt & Mt Colong. camp. On top of Mt Colong, there On day 3, we decided to is a very large truncated move on & explore new conical pile of rocks that forms territory. After checking out the Trig Stn. There is also a the Silver Peak mine, we visitors book that had an entry walked back along the road to for 1996. Bill, Margaret, Mick Tonalli Gap. We turned right, & Trikky, where are you now? following the road through There were also quite a few Squatting Rock Gap until we other familiar names. We then came to a high point. We left descended a ridge to near the the road here & walked down base of the mountain, but to a saddle then up to Mt Milo some navigational problems & for lunch. From here, we a sheer cliff line meant extra followed a clear easy ridge all time spent reaching the road the way down to the Group at Trig at Tonalli Gap. From the Gap, Kowmung River. pool and cascade. Soon after walk back to the cars, stopping it was a road bash into Following the river we reached the base of briefly to look at a red belly Yerranderie, where we arrived upstream, we eventually came Acetylene Spur where we black snake sunning itself in at 7.30pm. We camped at the to Lannigans Creek & the Uni dropped our packs and set off the sun beside the track. Government Town camp at the Rover trail. Campsites were to quickly visit Colong Caves top of the hill, and although scarce, but a good one was that had a distinct smell of bat Participants: Steve Deards there were quite a few groups found 200m above the creek guano. After ascending the (leader), Col White, Peter Wherry, car camping, there were still on a terrace. There was just very steep spur, it was a short Sandra Laws & Lloyd Egan. plenty of good spots available. enough room for 4 tents & an A lady from a nearby camp abundance of firewood. The On Bartlett Head must have taken pity on us - creek also had some clear she came over with a large pools of water.

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Adventure Anzac Day 2007 at Splendour Rock Journal 2007 outcrop to Splendour Rock. for the service. There was no Some groups were already sunrise, and light just filtered his is a rather hefty and very camped here and others through the clouds to herald a Tglossy ‘annual magazine’, continued to arrive. start to the day by the end of the covering ‘adventure and Anzac Day next morning service. exploration’. The pictures are meant an early start - up at 5.30 This year is the 40th good, but the articles are rather am ready for the dawn Anzac anniversary of the founding of short. On the other hand, there service at 6 am. In 1948 with Springwood Bushwalking Club, are plenty of them, covering a memories of fellow bushwalkers and their inaugural activity was a wide range of activities. There lost in World War 2 not far walk to Splendour Rock on are also a lot of very glossy gear behind them, the then Anzac Day, 1967. They were and services ads all through the Federation of Bushwalkers there this year to celebrate this. 148 pages. It sells for $9.95, and erected a war memorial here, a They held their own can be purchased via the web at plaque on the rock, overlooking commemoration after Nepean’s www.adventurepublishing.com. the spectacular wilderness service, and further formalities at au if it is not in your local valleys and ranges beyond, and 11 am after we had left. newsagent. annual commemoration services The ceremonies over, it was If you want a bushwalking mini-version of have been held there. In recent time for breakfast & packing up, magazine, this is not it. It focuses BackpackGearTest times Nepean Bushwalkers have & then the return trip. To make far more on extreme sports and as it were. These supplement the organised this, as was the case our excursion a round trip, we ‘special cases’: adventure and copious glossy advertisements. I this year. One of their members, walked over Mt Dingo, The exploration as the cover says. was intrigued to see that it even Bill Sanday, conducted the Playground of the Dingos, Things like an interview with has quite a few ads from service and reminded us all of Warrigal Gap, along the path on John Muir, an article on the Australian guiding companies, the sacrifices our soldiers had the side of Mt Warrigal and Franklin, one on rock climbing in including one which offers to made for us. Our thanks go to down Blackhorse Gap to the Greeenland, several others on take you on hikes in National Nepean Bushwalkers for carrying track to Medlow Gap, and on other rock climbing exploits, and Parks from B&B to B&B - I am out this commemoration each over the ford at Breakfast Creek, accidents, an article by a girl not sure how many B&Bs there year. Apart from Nepean where we stopped again for who very nearly fractured her are in National Parks in Australia Bushwalking Club, members of lunch, and then back to Carlons neck while surfing (but she though! the Watagan Wanderers, Farm for the trip home. Again recovered), and even a brief It will be interesting to see Springwood Bushwalking Club, much of the day was drizzly, but write-up of the Editor Lucas how long the magazine can Out of the Blue walkers, scouts & we later heard on the news that Trihey’s unsupported crossing of continue to find new articles on others attended, about 25 people on the coast it had teemed rain, the Simpson Desert. And there such extreme sports and altogether. Usually we look & some Anzac marches had been are more. activities. I guess you will just forward to a spectacular sunrise cancelled. Margaret Covi, A sister publication is the have to wait for the 2008 version at Splendour Rock. This year Watagan Wanderers Adventure Gear Guide 07, but to find out. clouds covered the sky, and the Adventure Journal does also threatened rain, which held off Margaret Covi feature some gear testing - a Roger Caffin

Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Walkers wild weeding in Southwest Tasmania Andy Macqueen Springwood Bushwalking Club

magine the coastline of Southwest Tasmania, from the mouth of IMacquarie Harbour to Cockle Creek. Most of it is untracked. There are rugged rocky shores to negotiate, river mouths to swim, and occasional thick scrub to push Southwest coast near the Lewis River through. The only person known to have walked project involving volunteer bushwalkers. substantial grant funding. If the project the whole distance in one go (Tasmanian Its attention was drawn to the track proceeds as intended, in each of the next Jon Marsden-Smedley) took 38 days. He record of the Friends of Colo, which has two summers eight teams of four been controlling willows and other bushwalkers will be inserted (mainly by serious weeds from the Colo gorges. As a helicopter) to walk different sections of result, last February four of us from the coast, searching for and treating the Friends of Colo (all members of sea spurge. Beyond that there will be a Springwood Bushwalking Club) found need for ongoing patrols, though the ourselves being helicoptered into a section amount of weeding required should be of the coast north of Port Davey, together greatly reduced. with four other bushwalkers from the SPRATS is hurriedly expanding its Blue Mountains and Tasmania. In two membership base so that it can put the teams and for 10 days, we worked 50 required number of bushwalkers into the kilometres of the coast. Apart from having field-and boost the group’s management a great time, we succeeded in primary team. Every participant in the fieldwork removal of sea spurge from 56 sites. has to be a fit, experienced and self- Digging out an outbreak of sea spurge There is much more to be done. Even reliant wilderness bushwalker, the section just treated will require many accustomed to carrying a heavy pack over had the assistance of a boat to get across return visits before this aggressive weed is rough ground. Port Davey, and a helicopter to drop food controlled. And although the Parks and riority is being given to Tasmanian supplies. He was surveying the shores for Wildlife Service supports the project, the Pwalkers, but it may be necessary to the invasive weed ‘sea spurge’ (Euphorbia work is beyond its budget and seek additional people from the mainland. paralias) which, if left unchecked, will organisational resources. At the time of writing it is not known devastate the landforms, plant life and We of the NSW contingent were so whether this will be the case. More sea-bird habitat along this marvellous enthused that we have now started a information can be found under ‘Groups’ wilderness coast. Tasmanian volunteer group known as at www.wildcaretas.org.au, or to find out Recognising that the spurge threat was SPRATS (Spurge Remote Area Teams), the latest you can email me (the inaugural beyond its resources, the Tasmanian Parks under the umbrella of Wildcare president of SPRATS) at and Wildlife recently decided on a pilot Incorporated. We are hopeful of obtaining [email protected].

Liz and Andy Macqueen with Carol and Phill Isaacs Removing sea spurge from Endeavour Beach

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 3, Winter 2007 Best Brands Best Range Best Advice Photo: MVP / Taryn Miller Taryn / MVP Photo: Cameron Barrie crossing the en route to Blue Lake. Blue to route en River Snowy the crossing Barrie Cameron

Sydney 491 Kent Street (02) 9264 5888 Chatswood 72 Archer Street (02) 9419 6955 email: [email protected] web: www.mountainequipment.com