Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group Volume 26 Issue 11 November 2016 LEURA CASCADES AND LEURA FOREST TOPIC real thing) below Chelmsford OUR Bridge bodes well for the flow of the Leura Cascades further OCTOBER downstream. At the base of the cascades the track leads us into WALK a dark overhang from which a LEURA CASCADES, LEURA view back up the cascades is on FOREST, KATOOMBA offer. Looking out from the FALLS and FURBER STEPS subdued light in the overhang st enhances the sparkling waters Friday 21 October 2016 of the Leura Cascades dropping Tag along with us dear reader as over the many ledges of dark we explore a spectacular area of rock; the green of the these mountains. We will overarching vegetation traverse tracks touched in some completes the scene. way by an eclectic collection of Spring in the Bush personalities and features; Lords Next we pause at the top of and Ladies, Prime Ministers and Bridal Veil Falls where there is Princes, Saints and Sinners - even beaches, a magnificent view of Mount both near and far. So do join us as we take in Solitary framed by the nearby sheer cliffs; amazing panoramic views and enclosed those on the right glowing in the sun, those on rainforest scenes along this rather special walk the left brooding in shade. Zig zagging steps from Leura to Katoomba. lead us up to Evelyn Lookout which gives views down onto the face of Bridal Veil Falls Sunshine filtering through a light layer of and a second view, between the cliffs, of cloud does little to offset the chill breeze Mount Solitary. which greets the twenty-two walkers gathered at Katoomba Falls Reserve. We welcome The track now leads us, via steep sets of stairs, Karen Bailey who is joining us for the first down into lush rainforest. Below us is a large (Dicksonia time today and welcome back Anne Pigott, group of Soft Tree Ferns antarctica) Karin Kirkpatrick and Merren Dargan who their cartwheels of fronds have not been able to join us for some time; a presenting an amazing spectacle. We are now car pool soon has us transported to our starting walking in a cool ferny glade, rock faces are point at the Leura Cascades parking area. clothed in velvety moss dripping with moisture; one such vertical rock face carries a We head off past the rather kitsch yet carving of a cartoon-like character, a green somewhat endearing faux rock shelter and face overlooking the track. Soon we are at the toilet, then through the faux rock arch and base of the Bridal Veil; we pause here, on the drop down beside the creek. The volume of rock platform, for morning tea. And what a water coursing over the rocks (these are the pleasant place to rest awhile. Above us silver 2 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group threads of water drop over the rock face, and descend a long steep stairway; we are now entwining with billowing wind-blown spray on Federal Pass. creating a filigree robe which shrouds the cliff Skirting around the base of the cliffs above face; a Bridal Veil indeed. Linda Creek we pass numerous tiny cascades Moving on we drop down a little lower and and waterfalls partially hidden among the pass the Leura Weeping Rock to the left of the foliage. We cross the small bridge in front of track; running reasonably well today but this Lila Falls; these falls drop over a series of rock feature is a special sight after good rain. The ledges and finally cascade over a wide bank of track now climbs rather steeply to the now lush ferns nestled beneath a narrow mantle. closed McKillops Lookout, named for Duncan Continuing our downward journey we arrive McKillop (c1850-1929), Mayor of Katoomba at Linda Falls; a tall narrow silver ribbon of Municipal Council in the late 1890s and who water dropping into a shallow pool surrounded was involved in the construction of the track by ferns; a beautiful sight. Linda Falls was to Leura Forest. This lookout gives good named after Linda McKillop (1877-1918), views of the Leura Falls (once known as the daughter of Duncan McKillop who discovered Lower Leura Falls); hopefully it will be them. Linda was cousin of Sister, now Saint reopened in the future. Mary McKillop. There’s our Saint connection, Continuing on we pass examples of the where are the Sinners? Dragons Tail (Dracophyllum secundum) We now catch glimpses of Sylvia Cascades which curiously carry their delicate pink- through the trees as we descend further and tinged white tubular flowers on only one side arrive at Marguerite Cascades, a wide bench of their stems. Also in this area are the of dark rock with a major fall of water on the brilliant white star-like flowers of the Rock right and a series of smaller falls extending Sprengelia (Sprengelia monticola) . across to the left. Soon we arrive at a small Soon we enter a large semi-circular bridge across Linda Creek below a rather indentation in the cliff face; we have reached pretty unnamed tiny cascade and very shortly The Amphitheatre. Here, in this shaded cool we arrive in Leura Forest. environment, Rough Tree Ferns (Cyathea Thousands of years, perhaps tens of thousands australis) thrive, their tall trunks contrasting of years ago, huge sandstone tors thundered markedly with the squat stout trunks of the down from the escarpment above and formed King Ferns (Todea barbara) which also a sill, against which soil built up, creating a inhabit this area. The stand out feature in this fertile platform on which rainforest trees have enclosed glen however is a magnificent thrived. Majestic Turpentines (Syncarpia example of a forest giant which has spread its glomulifera) , Coachwoods (Ceratopetalum sinuous roots across a large flat-surfaced apetalum) , Sassafras (Doryphora sassafras) boulder before they dive into the soil in search and Lilly Pilly (Acmena smithii) tower of nourishment. A wonderful sight, especially skyward seeking the energy of the sun, their so for Bonsai practitioners such as Ray Nesci canopies producing a dense shade across the and myself, ‘root-over-rock’ being a forest area. Tree ferns flourish in the traditional Bonsai style. understorey as does the Pepper Bush As we move on toward the Fern Bower area (Tasmannia insipida) ; one example was in we pass, clustered on the rock face above the flower, each tiny flower displaying a starburst track, numerous small yellow orchids, their of pink-tinged white stamens above two long long cylindrical leaves indicating they are narrow petals. Also present here is the probably the Streaked Rock Orchid Fragrant Fern (Microsorium scandens) (Dendrobium striolatum) ; a beautiful display climbing up tree trunks to a great height. of delicate flowers. We turn left at the junction We settle down in this magical environment of The Amphitheatre and Fern Bower Tracks for lunch; a lyrebird, running through its 3 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group extensive repertoire, serenades us while Katoomba Falls and the bridge at Cooks standing atop a nearby moss-shrouded tor. Crossing takes us over the Kedumba River. Bliss! Cooks Crossing is named after Sir Joseph We cross the tiny Banksia Streamlet and are Cook, formerly a coal miner from Lithgow, now adjacent to the shelter shed; originally who was Prime Minister of Australia in built in 1893 it was destroyed by a falling tree 1913/14; that takes care of the PM connection. and was rebuilt in 1991. We arrive at the base of the Furber Steps. Here The Carrington Hotel was named after Lord some elect to continue on and take the Scenic and Lady Carrington. Lord Carrington was Railway back to the top of the escarpment; the Governor of NSW 1885-1890. What, you may rest head off to take the thousand or so steps to well ask, has this got to do with Leura Forest? the top. Let me elaborate. Shortly before 1890 tables Shortly after the start of our climb we pass and seats were constructed below the tree through a large rock overhang, this is known ferns in this area. It was said to look like the as York Cave. It was named after the visit to Carrington Dining Room in a bush setting and Katoomba in 1901 by Prince George Frederick became known as Lady Carrington Dining Ernest Albert (Duke of Cornwell and York), Room. There is our Lord and Lady later King George V. There’s our Prince connection. connection, only the Sinners to go. Lady Cecilia Margaret Carrington perhaps had We climb the Furber Steps proper, about one a penchant for lending her name to locations; hundred and forty steep steps cut into the solid she also gives us our first beach connection. A rock face, and rest at Queen Victoria Lookout. Sydney beach and suburb took its name from These steps, completed in 1908, are named her maiden name, Harbord. after Thomas Frederick Furber a government As we leave this sublime area our second surveyor who was instrumental in getting a beach connection immediately materialises; government grant of one hundred and forty we leave via the Dardanelles Pass. This track pounds to finance their construction. The commemorates those whose lives were lost views from the top of these steps are and the many more whose lives were ruined magnificent. The full drop of Katoomba Falls on the beach at Anzac Cove in the Gallipoli and the Three Sisters look rather special in the campaign. prevailing muted light. This pass, tucked in close to the base of the The final stage of our climb takes us past the cliffs, leads us through some imposing Rainforest Lookout and Witches Leap to rainforest, past the Giant Stairway and delivers emerge at the Katoomba Falls Kiosk.