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Roy L. Clough, Jr Model air car skims the ground By ROY L. CLOUGH, JR. Working model of a ground-effect vehicle rides on a cushion of air from a model-airplane engine Tethered to a stake, the car will skim half an inch or so off the ground, around and around until it runs out of fuel WITH A hollow whistling note audible over the whine of its tiny engine, this advanced working model of a ground-effect vehicle skims across the floor supported on a cushion of air. What makes it go? is a model, which can buzz along at a good clip Air is supplied by a prop to a peripheral slot, on any level surface with a minimum of sideslip which produces a high-speed wall of air around due to minor irregularities on the surface. the edge of the model to retain the lift. A Attached to a tether it will whiz merrily around in separate propulsion-system tube bleeds off air a circle until the fuel runs out. It rides a half-inch for reactive propulsion---from the blower section, or so off the floor even when running free. Any not the skirt. Supporting pressure is not reduced small airplane engine can be used to power it. If --- a major fault of ground-effect vehicles which you use the engine installed in the original propel by dumping air pressure and lifting the model, which is supplied with a three-blade skirt on the opposite side from the desired prop, you won't have to make a prop of sheet direction of travel. Stabilizers on each side act metal, a pattern of which is given. If the engine somewhat like the dihedralled wings of an is new, break it in by running on a test stand for airplane— if the model tilts to either side, air 15 or 20 minutes. pressure escaping from the skirt builds up under the vane and returns it to even keel. The result Top and rear views above and below show the engine mounted in the intake duct and the propulsion tube outlet at the rear. Note the wire hook on the door for tethering. A squeeze bulb feeds fuel through the plastic fuel line connected to the tank. The dry cell plugs into the phono jack First study the cutaway drawings given to become familiar with the various parts. Then begin construction by making up the base, top and diaphragm plate from edge-glued 3/32-in. balsa sheet. Use stiffeners where shown and allow to dry on a flat surface. Make up the 3 1/2- in. intake duct from art paper and use this as the first structural member to hold the top and base use this as a guide in centering the engine. together. When dry, add the 3/16-in. uprights, Actual installation is made by cementing the which form the supports for the side covering. diaphragm plate to the stators. Use a slow Next install the paper propulsion tube. Note the drying cement to allow time to even up the slot vane to direct airflow within it. around the skirt and center the engine shaft. The skirt is vertical grained 3/32-in. stock Run out the fuel filler tubes and engine lead glued around the bottom edge of the base. Use out wires and make up a needle valve extension basswood or balsawood and there will be no shaft. The glow-plug wires lead to a phonograph difficulty in making the bends. Cover the jack---a great convenience in starting. A recoil framework of the car body with art paper, one spring starter is a must and is installed before section at a time, beginning at the rear. Add the prop. dummy headlights and fin, stabilizing vanes and A length of 1/8-in. cord is cemented around handrails. Windows may be glazed with sheet the skirt as a buffer. (A round shoestring works acetate or left open. Finally turn the model over very nicely.) Suspend the model by the engine and install stator vanes. Coat the interior with at shaft and balance it so that it hangs evenly. least two coats of hot fuel proof dope (clear). Small bits of solder, coated with cement and Dope the exterior in your favorite color. The dropped inside the body on the light side or end original was painted light blue outside, fire red will do the trick. If tethered operation is desired, inside. cement a wire hook through the covering to the Make up the engine pedestal, mount the engine upright on the centerline. and cement the pedestal to the wires to the glow Scanned from: plug. Cut out a 3 1/4-in. disk of cardboard and Popular Mechanics Do it yourself Encyclopedia MODEL CAR RACING AT ITS SIMPLEST Deceptively simple in appearance, every line on his car has been carefully planned to make it easy to build and maintain and fun to race By ROY L. CLOUGH, JR. WIND WAGON • Here is the perfect project to absorb your old nothing flat. three-port .19-.29 engine that still has a few kicks Begin construction with the chassis. This is left in it despite being outmoded for flying use by carved from white pine or equivalent. The wheel newer and hotter engines. axles are 1/8" steel landing gear wire. It is not We wanted to find out if a really good air-drive difficult to drill holes in the chassis for these by car could be built to look like a real race car and hand if care is used, but a drill press makes the not a runaway fuselage. The results were job a cinch. Don't try to drill all the way through surprisingly good. With an old O&R side-port .19 from one side; drill in from each side so the holes it hit a zooming 62.8 mph. Even a beaten-up .14 meet in the middle. Note how the axles are held diesel engine kicked it up to 40 mph. This by soldered washers. It is not essential that the compares very favorably with wheel-drive cars, axles be held so firmly they cannot rotate, but and Wind Wagon is a lot simpler to operate and there should be no end-play. Do not put the cheaper to build. wheels on yet. The plan should be followed fairly closely. The body is carved from soft pine. Some Making an air-drive race car is not just a matter originality of line is permissible here, but don't of sticking a motor and prop on a wheeled depart too far from the plan and be sure the platform; balance and dynamic loadings are thrust line comes as shown. The motor mount is important. There are a couple of angles designed 1/2" plywood, cut to fit your particular engine. into this one which are essential to good Chassis, body and mount are assembled with 1- performance. For example, the wide under- 1/2" flat head wood screws and good wood chassis is not a matter of taste in style, but is glue—do not use model cement. The cockpit made that way to create an airflow pattern to details add realism. The driver is a ping pong prevent fine abrasive dust, present on concrete ball, painted to look like a helmeted head and the surfaces, from being thrown up to the engine rim of the pit is padded with heavy twine intake; the washer arrangement which holds the cemented in place. The fuel tank can be anything model plane type wheels came about because handy that suits the engine. Several types have other arrangements wore out aluminum hubs in been used on the original and all worked well provided the usual U-control fuel feed to the outside was observed. Be sure it is anchored We found that maximum speeds came from firmly. careful selection of propellers and by setting the Next bore a ballast hole, put in the screw- car off a bit rich so that it would start to lean out eyes and bridle and make a trial fit of the engine by about the tenth lap—presumably because the and tank and check the balance. The model rich start prevented the pusher engine from should hang the slightest trifle nose-down when overheating before the car got going fast enough suspended by the bridle, so pour in melted lead for the slipstream to provide sufficient cooling. or old bearing metal to balance. Pull the engine While this vehicle will never set the world on and tank and finish the model with fuel-proof fire from either the appearance or performance dope or enamel—incidentally, it seems easier to standpoint, it does bring auto racing within the clock a bright-colored car. reach of the average miniature engine owner When the paint job suits you install the who may not have access to a lathe or the other wheels, using the washer arrangement shown to specialized equipment so vital to AMRCA minimize wear on the hubs. Install the motor and followers. tank and check it over to make sure the wheels By limiting a group of racing enthusiasts to spin freely and track and foot well. Put a little #50 same size or maximum power plants any hobby oil on the axles every other run and clean them shop or model club can come up with a fleet of off whenever they seem to be picking up dirt. cars in jig-time for some informal, strictly-for-fun Because the engine is pushing instead of racing.
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