Improving Peach Cobbler Bad Peaches, Soggy Biscuits, and Syrupy Filling Were Just Three of the Problems We Had to Solve in Resurrecting This Simple Summer Dessert

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Improving Peach Cobbler Bad peaches, soggy biscuits, and syrupy filling were just three of the problems we had to solve in resurrecting this simple summer dessert.

j B y K e i th Dresser k

f I were to write a TV ad for the Because tasters greeted overly sweet cob- perfect peach cobbler, I would sing bler fillings with comments such as “tastes the praises of its honeyed taste and like it came from a can,” I settled on a scant silky texture, all the while showing 1⁄4 cup of sugar, just enough to do the softly filtered shots of the bright days of job without making the filling syrupy. To Isummer. After all, this classic marriage of thicken the peach juices, I tried cornstarch, cobbler topping and sweet, fresh fruit is pulverized tapioca, flour, and arrowroot. worth advertising; so few modern cooks Each starch thickened the juices admirably, serve it, and yet it is easy enough to throw but the high price and limited availability of together at the last minute. What could be arrowroot disqualified it. Tapioca, too, was more appealing than warm cobbler dough out of the running because of its propen- atop rich, juicy peaches? sity to leave behind hardened starch gran- The reason most cooks have not made ules (tapioca works better in a double-crust peach cobbler recently is the usual one: The pie, where the pastry traps juices and helps promise is better than the reality. For start- to steam the granules until they dissolve). ers, peaches are unpredictable. Some turn Flour, meanwhile, gave the filling a pasty mushy if cooked a bit too long, while others quality. Cornstarch it was, then. A mere exude an ocean of overly sweet juices. The teaspoon was the perfect amount, giving topping is also problematic, ranging from the filling body without overwhelming the tough, dry biscuits to raw, cakey lumps of delicate texture of the peaches. Wondering dough. In worst-case recipes, it is both hard if the fruit would benefit from the addition and crusty on top and soggy on the bottom. of other flavors, I conducted a battery of So what’s a home cook to do? tests, using ingredients such as lemon juice, almond extract, Triple Sec, ginger, and car- The Problem with Peaches damom. Lemon juice was the only keeper, My initial tests told me two things: The Sugaring the sliced peaches and draining the excess juice ensures a crisp as it helped to brighten the peach flavor; peaches should be peeled to avoid any biscuit topping. the other additions were only distractions. unpleasant leathery bits of skin, and they should be cut in relatively large pieces to avoid the cobbler with some of the liquid that had been Getting to the Top development of a peach mush during baking. drained away. Starting with 1 tablespoon, I added There were many choices for the topping other than Another way to avoid the mush, I learned, was to the drawn juice back to the filling. In the end, 1⁄4 biscuit dough, but none of them were as appeal- choose ripe yet firm peaches, which better with- cup of the drawn juice had to be added back to ing (see “Recipe Testing” below). The next step stood the rigors of baking. (Save those soft, super- guarantee a juicy cobbler that would have the same was to select the style of biscuit topping: rolled or ripe peaches for eating out of hand.) What proved amount of liquid every time. dropped. Rolled biscuits had a nice light texture, to be the most perplexing problem was the wide variation in juiciness from peach to peach, which r e c i p e t e s t i n g : sometimes resulted in a baking dish overflowing Searching for the Right Cobbler Topping with liquid. Some recipes for peach cobbler stray far and away from the traditional biscuit topping. Here’s a look at some In my first attempt to solve this problem, I tried of these alternatives, with comments from tasters. parcooking the peaches by means of roasting or sautéing, thus removing excess juices. But this was a dead end, as I discovered that most of the juices are not released until the peaches are almost fully cooked—something that necessarily happens after the peaches have been joined with the cobbler topping. Next I thought to draw on a technique used to make another American dessert classic—straw- berry shortcake—in which the fruit is macerated in sugar to draw out its juices. Sugar did indeed Cookielike Crust Cakelike Batter Fl aky Pastry Topping draw off some of the moisture from the peaches, Our tasters felt this “sweet,” “sandy” Tasters thought this “dumplinglike” Making a topping similar to pie dough topping was “not right for a cobbler.” topping looked more like clafouti and was a lot of work, and the peaches

but I quickly discovered that I needed to replenish called it “pasty” and “doughy.” sitting under it were “gluey.” photography: carl tremblay

c o o k ’ s illustrated

24 Peach Cobbler fpe 24 6/25/13 12:43 PM Anatomy of a Peach (see “Anatomy of a Peach”). Cut each half into 4 wedges. Gently toss peaches and sugar together A number of cobbler recipes call for removing the dark red flesh in large bowl; let stand for 30 minutes, tossing that surrounds the pit of the peach. Wondering what impact this several times. Drain peaches in colander set over would have on my cobbler, I made two versions—one with the red large bowl. Whisk 1⁄4 cup of drained juice (discard part of the peaches removed, the other with it intact. While the extra), cornstarch, lemon juice, and salt together latter had an appealing reddish blush, I was surprised to find that in small bowl. Toss peach juice mixture with peach it also had a bitter taste. The cobbler made with cleaned peaches slices and transfer to 8-inch-square glass baking tasted better. So if you see red once the peaches have been pitted dish. Bake until peaches begin to bubble around (not all peaches will have this red flesh), take a few extra seconds edges, about 10 minutes. to scoop it out and discard it. –K.D. 3. for the topping: While peaches are baking, in food processor, pulse flour, 3 tablespoons but I wondered if there was an easier way. Drop now had a peach cobbler recipe that was reliably sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt to biscuits (a wet dough is dropped by spoonfuls onto good, whether I was using juicy or not-so-juicy combine. Scatter butter over and pulse until mix- the fruit) were certainly easier to prepare than rolled fruit. In fact, it was ready for prime time. ture resembles coarse meal, about ten 1-second biscuits, and they had an attractive rustic and craggy pulses. Transfer to medium bowl; add yogurt and appearance. Tasters found drop biscuits too dense, FRESH PEACH COBBLER toss with rubber spatula until cohesive dough is however. The compromise was a biscuit recipe in Serves 6 formed. (Don’t overmix dough or biscuits will which the butter is cut into the flour (as it is with be tough.) Break dough into 6 evenly sized but rolled biscuits) but which also contains a little more If your peaches are firm, you should be able to peel roughly shaped mounds and set aside. dairy, making the dough more moist. Now I could them with a sharp vegetable peeler. If they are too 4. to assemble and bake: After peaches avoid the rolling and cutting but still get the light soft and ripe to withstand the pressure of a peeler, have baked 10 minutes, remove peaches from texture of a traditional biscuit. you’ll need to blanch and shock them before peel- oven and place dough mounds on top, spac- In testing the “fat” component of the biscuit, I ing (for detailed instructions, see Kitchen Notes, ing them at least 1⁄2 inch apart (they should not tried vegetable shortening and cream cheese, but page 31). In the biscuit topping, low-fat or nonfat touch). Sprinkle each mound with portion of tasters quickly discarded these in favor of butter, plain yogurt can be used in place of whole milk remaining 1 teaspoon sugar. Bake until topping which not only improved the flavor of the biscuits yogurt, but the biscuits will be a little less rich. If is golden brown and fruit is bubbling, 16 to 18 but also aided in browning. For dairy, I tested the you live in an arid climate, the biscuit dough may minutes. Cool cobbler on wire rack until warm, usual suspects—heavy cream, half-and-half, milk, require up to an additional tablespoon of yogurt about 20 minutes; serve. and buttermilk—and received mixed results. for it to form a cohesive dough. Do not prepare the Tasters liked the tang of the buttermilk biscuits biscuit dough any sooner than the recipe indicates; BLUEBERRY-PEACH COBBLER WITH but the cakier, more substantial crumb produced if the unbaked dough is left to stand too long, the LEMON-CORNMEAL BISCUIT TOPPING by richer dairy products (the cream and the half- leavener will expire and the biscuits will not rise and-half). The simple solution was to use whole properly in the oven. This recipe can be doubled to Follow recipe for Fresh Peach Cobbler, using 2 milk yogurt. These biscuits had plenty of tangy serve a crowd. Use a 13 by 9-inch baking dish and pounds peaches and tossing 1 cup fresh blueberries flavor and a texture that resembled that of the increase the baking times in steps 2 and 4 by about (about 5 ounces) into peach juice/cornstarch mix- biscuits made with half-and-half. 5 minutes. Serve the warm cobbler with vanilla ice ture along with peaches in step 2. In biscuit top- Moving on to the leavener, I found that a com- cream or whipped cream. Leftovers can be reheated ping, substitute 2 tablespoons stone-ground bination of baking powder and soda was best. An in a 350-degree oven until warmed through. cornmeal for equal amount flour and add 1⁄2

OLOVYEV egg, tasters decided, made the biscuits too heavy, teaspoon grated lemon zest to food processor S but they did like biscuits with a bit of sugar, which Filling along with dry ingredients in step 3. both added flavor and helped to crisp the exte- 21⁄2 pounds ripe but firm peaches (6 to 7 medium) rior. I tried spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and 1 3 YEVGENIY ⁄4 cup (1 ⁄4 ounces) sugar : techni q ue ginger as well as lemon zest but decided that the 1 teaspoon cornstarch biscuits ought to be a quiet backup for the show- 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon drop those cobbles

TRATION stealing peaches. (Lemon zest did work nicely S Pinch salt with a cornmeal biscuit variation, however.) ILLU Biscuit Topping Assembling and Baking 1 cup (5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour Up until this point, I had been placing the fairly 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar moist biscuit dough on top of the raw peaches 3⁄4 teaspoon baking powder and then baking the cobbler at 425 degrees—a 1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda technique that was producing gluey biscuits that 1⁄4 teaspoon salt were slightly raw in the center. Investigating a tech- 5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into nique similar to one employed in our Sour Cherry 1⁄4-inch cubes Cobbler recipe (July/August 2001), I tried partially 1⁄3 cup plain whole milk yogurt baking the peaches before adding the topping, hop- ing that the hot fruit would jump-start the cooking 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position process. It did. The biscuits were much better, and and heat oven to 425 degrees. Place the biscuits too close to one another and they the fruit was no longer overcooked. Finally, to fur- 2. for the filling: Peel peaches (see note), will bake up doughy. To avoid this problem, stagger ther enhance the biscuits’ crispness, I sprinkled the then halve and pit each. Using small spoon, the rows of biscuits slightly. ilhouette photography: daniel j. van ackere,

s tops with sugar before they went into the oven. I scoop out and discard dark flesh from pit area

j u l y & a u g u s t 2 0 0 4

24 Peach Cobbler fpe 25 6/25/13 12:43 PM Anatomy of a Peach (see “Anatomy of a Peach”). Cut each half into 4 wedges. Gently toss peaches and sugar together A number of cobbler recipes call for removing the dark red flesh in large bowl; let stand for 30 minutes, tossing that surrounds the pit of the peach. Wondering what impact this several times. Drain peaches in colander set over would have on my cobbler, I made two versions—one with the red large bowl. Whisk 1⁄4 cup of drained juice (discard part of the peaches removed, the other with it intact. While the extra), cornstarch, lemon juice, and salt together latter had an appealing reddish blush, I was surprised to find that in small bowl. Toss peach juice mixture with peach it also had a bitter taste. The cobbler made with cleaned peaches slices and transfer to 8-inch-square glass baking tasted better. So if you see red once the peaches have been pitted dish. Bake until peaches begin to bubble around (not all peaches will have this red flesh), take a few extra seconds edges, about 10 minutes. to scoop it out and discard it. –K.D. 3. for the topping: While peaches are baking, in food processor, pulse flour, 3 tablespoons but I wondered if there was an easier way. Drop now had a peach cobbler recipe that was reliably sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt to biscuits (a wet dough is dropped by spoonfuls onto good, whether I was using juicy or not-so-juicy combine. Scatter butter over and pulse until mix- the fruit) were certainly easier to prepare than rolled fruit. In fact, it was ready for prime time. ture resembles coarse meal, about ten 1-second biscuits, and they had an attractive rustic and craggy pulses. Transfer to medium bowl; add yogurt and appearance. Tasters found drop biscuits too dense, FRESH PEACH COBBLER toss with rubber spatula until cohesive dough is however. The compromise was a biscuit recipe in Serves 6 formed. (Don’t overmix dough or biscuits will which the butter is cut into the flour (as it is with be tough.) Break dough into 6 evenly sized but rolled biscuits) but which also contains a little more If your peaches are firm, you should be able to peel roughly shaped mounds and set aside. dairy, making the dough more moist. Now I could them with a sharp vegetable peeler. If they are too 4. to assemble and bake: After peaches avoid the rolling and cutting but still get the light soft and ripe to withstand the pressure of a peeler, have baked 10 minutes, remove peaches from texture of a traditional biscuit. you’ll need to blanch and shock them before peel- oven and place dough mounds on top, spac- In testing the “fat” component of the biscuit, I ing (for detailed instructions, see Kitchen Notes, ing them at least 1⁄2 inch apart (they should not tried vegetable shortening and cream cheese, but page 31). In the biscuit topping, low-fat or nonfat touch). Sprinkle each mound with portion of tasters quickly discarded these in favor of butter, plain yogurt can be used in place of whole milk remaining 1 teaspoon sugar. Bake until topping which not only improved the flavor of the biscuits yogurt, but the biscuits will be a little less rich. If is golden brown and fruit is bubbling, 16 to 18 but also aided in browning. For dairy, I tested the you live in an arid climate, the biscuit dough may minutes. Cool cobbler on wire rack until warm, usual suspects—heavy cream, half-and-half, milk, require up to an additional tablespoon of yogurt about 20 minutes; serve. and buttermilk—and received mixed results. for it to form a cohesive dough. Do not prepare the Tasters liked the tang of the buttermilk biscuits biscuit dough any sooner than the recipe indicates; BLUEBERRY-PEACH COBBLER WITH but the cakier, more substantial crumb produced if the unbaked dough is left to stand too long, the LEMON-CORNMEAL BISCUIT TOPPING by richer dairy products (the cream and the half- leavener will expire and the biscuits will not rise and-half). The simple solution was to use whole properly in the oven. This recipe can be doubled to Follow recipe for Fresh Peach Cobbler, using 2 milk yogurt. These biscuits had plenty of tangy serve a crowd. Use a 13 by 9-inch baking dish and pounds peaches and tossing 1 cup fresh blueberries flavor and a texture that resembled that of the increase the baking times in steps 2 and 4 by about (about 5 ounces) into peach juice/cornstarch mix- biscuits made with half-and-half. 5 minutes. Serve the warm cobbler with vanilla ice ture along with peaches in step 2. In biscuit top- Moving on to the leavener, I found that a com- cream or whipped cream. Leftovers can be reheated ping, substitute 2 tablespoons stone-ground bination of baking powder and soda was best. An in a 350-degree oven until warmed through. cornmeal for equal amount flour and add 1⁄2

s tops with sugar before they went into the oven. I scoop out and discard dark flesh from pit area

j u l y & a u g u s t 2 0 0 4

24 Peach Cobbler fpe 25 6/25/13 12:43 PM