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Observations on the Microbial Ecology of Traditional Alcoholic Cider Storage Vats

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Observations on the Microbial Ecology of Traditional Alcoholic Cider Storage Vats encourage native gray ant populations and reduce southern fire ant abun- dance is needed. K.M. Daane is Associate Specialist, Cen- ter for Biological Control, Division ofln- sect Biology, Department of ESPM, UC Berkeley (stationed at the Kearney Agri- cultural Center in Parlier); and 1.W. Dlott is Senior Researcher, Dlott t3 Associates Consulting, Santa Cruz. We would like to thank Paul Buxman and Dick and Karen Peterson for use of their farms; the Califor- nia Clean Growers Association for help in Commercial production of pear cider the development of grower-collaborative would create an alternative market for research; Andy Gutierrez and Charlie pears. The champagne method results in Summers for helpful suggest ions; Matt the highest quality beverage. Graduate Jones, Ingrid Peterson and Glenn Yokota students Christopher Scarlata and Sally Johnson gradually riddle the bottles to for laboratory and fieldwork; and the Cali- collect the yeast sediment in a small plas- fornia Tree Fruit Agreement, California tic cup behind the crown cap. Cling Peach Board, California Energy Commission, and Switzer Foundation En- vironmental Fellowship for funding. Feasibility of producing pear wine . References Barnett WW, Edstrom JP, Coviello RL, Zalom FG. 1993. Insect pathogen Bt controls peach twig borer on fruits and almonds. Cal Pears produce premium Ag 47(5):4-6. Daane KM, Johnson RS, Michailides TJ, et al. 1995. Nitrogen fertilization affects nec- sparkling wine tarine fruit yield, storage qualities, and sus- ceptibility to brown rot and insect damage. Cal Ag 49(4):13-8. Glenn T. McGourty 0 Christian E. Butzke Daane KM, Yokota GY, Dlott JW. 1993. Dormant-seasonsprays affect the mortality of peach twig borer (Lepidoptera: Gelechiidae) Pear growers and packers con- In Northern Europe, a sparkling alco- and its parasitoids. J Econ Entomol86:1679-85. tinue to need profitable market holic beverage is made from both Dlott JW, Altieri MA, Masumoto M. 1994. channels for fruit that is not pears and apples. Cider, or cidre, by Exploring the theory and practice of participa- tory research in US sustainable agriculture: A packed for fresh market or definition is fermented juice of apples case study in insect pest management. canned. Off-grade fruit that is des- or pears. These beverages are usually Agricul and Human Values I 1:126-39. ignated for the juicing market fre- between 4% and 7% alcohol and gen- Hendricks LC. 1995. Almond growers re- erally retain some carbon dioxide, so duce pesticide use in Merced county field tri- quently gives growers and pack- als. Cal Ag 49(1):5-10. ers poor returns unless there are that they have "fizz," much like beer. Rice RE, Jones RA. 1988. Timing post- significant shortages of fruit juice The British Isles and Northern France bloom sprays for peach twig borer (Lepi- concentrates in the marketplace. consume large amounts of both apple doptera: Gelechiidae) and San Jose scale cider and perry (pear cider). Presently, (Homoptera: Diaspididae). J Econ Entomol Finding a use for these fruit in the 81 1293-9. creation of a higher priced, value- among consumers 21 to 30 years of age Rice RE, Kirsch P. 1990. Mating disrup- in those countries (the legal drinking added premium product could tion of oriental fruit moth in the United States. age is 16 in most of Europe), cider and In: Ridgway RL, Silverstein RM, lnscoe MN greatly strengthen the perfor- perry are the most popular alcoholic (eds.). Behavior-Modifying Chemicals for In- mance of this segment of the pear sect Management. New York: Marcel Decker. beverages after beer. In the last 10 p. 193-211. market and at the same time use years, Britain has seen a steady con- Rice RR, Zalom FG, Brunner JF. 1982. the off-season production capac- sumption of cider, which makes up Monitoring peach twig borer development ity of sparkling wineries. Our ex- with degree-day. UC, Div Agricul Sci, Leaflet 10% of the beverages sold in pubs No. 21302. periments demonstrate that an (Berger 1995). Today, the UK cider Shorey HH, Gaston LK, Gerber RG, et al. ultrapremium-quality cider can be market exceeds 100 million gallons. 1993. Disruption of foraging by Formica made from juice grade Bartlett aerata (Hymenoptera: Formicidae) through Ciders were widely enjoyed in early the use of semiochemicals and related com- pears. Pear fruit should be ripe for American society. Apple trees grew pounds. Environ Entomol22:920-4. optimum flavors and aromas. extremely well in New England, and CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1998 ' 31 a death blow in 1919 would be logical for perry and apple (Correnty 1995). cider to be readily offered as compan- ion products through similar market- Market trends and ing channels, either as a bottled prod- supply uct in 12-, 22- and 32-ounce containers In the United or in bulk ”keg” containers. States there has been According to a recent study on the a remarkable in- feasibility of creating a juicing facility crease in the con- in Mendocino County, in an average sumption of cider year there are 12,300 tons of pears over the past de- available in the Lake and Mendocino cade, growing al- Pear Growing Districts for ”other most 250% from uses” besides canning and fresh mar- Above, fruit like these frost-damaged pears that are not packed 1988 to 1994 (Berger ket, which includes juicing, drying for fresh market or canned could be crushed for making sparkling 1995). In 1995,3.7 and freezing. This tonnage is highly pear wine. Below, pear cider, or perry, is a tasty alternative to million gallons of ci- variable, ranging from a low of 7,000 strong, full-bodied craft beers. A primary alcoholic fermentation in stainless-steel tanks produces a pear still wine, the base for der were consumed, tons in 1990 to a high of 24,000 tons in perry. twice the amount in 1987. There is also a significant supply the previous year. of processing apples in both This number Mendocino and Sonoma counties, av- doubled again, to eraging 46,000 tons per year, ranging more than 8 million from a low of 26,500 tons in 1988 to gallons in 1997. Al- 63,000 tons in 1994. The overall supply though these num- of this cull fruit is determined prima- bers are impressive, rily by weather conditions, quality cider remains a regulations and cull fruit prices small segment (less (Hardesty 1996). Assuming that a ton than 0.2%) of the of fruit yields 160 gallons of juice, and beverage market that a case of cider contains twenty- compared to beer, at four 12-ounce bottles (2.25 gallons per 6.2 billion gallons case), Mendocino, Sonoma and Lake per year. Interest- counties could supply as much as 6 ingly, New England million cases (table 1). and British Colum- It is very clear that the North Coast bia are at the center Pear and Apple Districts could poten- the art of cider making was readily of the growth of the market for these tially supply large quantities of juice adapted. Because of its availability, beverages (Mehta 1996; Fabricant for a cider industry, on average even cider was inexpensive and was con- 1997).Progressive growers, such as more than the current US. cider con- sumed in large quantities. Historical Alyson’s Apple Orchard in New Hamp- sumption. Another positive point is records indicate that per capita con- shire, have successfully planted vari- that the apple acreage in Sonoma sumption of cider in Massachusetts in ous historical European cultivars that County was planted for the processing 1767 was 47.6 gallons. In the 19th cen- may produce visually inferior but industry and includes cultivars fa- tury, cider makers began adding rum highly flavorful fruit for cider produc- vored for cider making, such as to cider, making it considerably more tion (www.alysonsorchard.com/ Gravenstein, Rome Beauty and New intoxicating, resulting in social prob- fruits.htm). Town Pippin. lems arising from its abuse. Early tem- A logical market niche for alcoholic Fermentation styles perance societies focused on cideries, ciders is ”brew pubs” or micro- bringing social pressure for their pro- breweries that make their own beer, Three fermentation systems are hibition. At the same time there was a where tart and fruity ciders offer an al- used for commercial cidermaking (Pol- migration of rural cider-consuming ternative to strong, full-bodied craft lard and Beech 1957; Lea 1995, Jarvis et Americans to urban areas, where new brews. In the British tradition, brew al. 1995; Cabranes et al. 1996; Scott and immigrants from Europe brought their pubs like to offer cider on tap and in O’Reilly 1996; Duenas et al. 1997). taste for beer. This competing bever- bottles. The growth of brew pubs in Choosing a system depends on the age could be made cheaply from dry the United States was phenomenal, volume of fruit to be processed, the ingredients available year-round. This from 8 in 1985 to 417 in 1995, but level- size of the market to be served, the brought about a decline in the con- ing off in 1997. “Craft brews” made by quality of the beverage (Mangas 1996) sumption of cider in the United States, these companies make up about 5% of to be delivered and the amount of in- with Prohibition dealing the industry the total beer sold (Appell995). It vestment capital available. 32 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, VOLUME 52, NUMBER 6 The champagne method (rne'tkod TABLE 1. Potential cider production if cull fruit is used from pear and apple orchards in Mendocino, ckampenoise in France) involves mak- Sonoma and Lake counties ing a still wine from pears or apples, Historic Range Fruit Juice Cider then adding yeast, nutrients and sugar tons gal cases for the secondary fermentation (tirage), Pears High 24,000 3,840,000 1,706,666 bottling and capping, and allowing Low 7,000 1,120,000 497,777 Average 12,300 1,968,000 874.666 time for the bottles to become carbon- ated, about 3 weeks.
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