Roos Van Put Zeg Je Liverpool, Noem Je in Één Adem Natuurlijk De Beatles

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Roos Van Put Zeg Je Liverpool, Noem Je in Één Adem Natuurlijk De Beatles Anglicaanse Kathedraal Albert Dock China Town Stedenprofiel: Liverpool Roos van Put Zeg je Liverpool, noem je in één adem natuurlijk de Beatles. Aan het begin van de jaren zestig zetten zij de wereld op zijn kop, een culturele revolutie was een feit. Maar Liverpool, gelegen aan de rivier Mersey is méér dan de geboorteplaats van deze wereldschokkende muziekgroep. Decennia lang trekken bekende kunstenaars naar deze Engelse stad en dat begint al aan het eind van de jaren zestig. Candida Höfer maakt aan het eind van de jaren zestig foto’s in Liverpool. Zij wil het vibrerende poëtische klimaat van deze stad ervaren. Sinds het eind van de jaren negentig heeft Liverpool een Biënnale. Insiders beweren dat sindsdien het kunstklimaat weer bruisend is, dat kunstenaars niet meer massaal wegtrekken en dat het niveau van de lokale kunst omhoog is gegaan. In 1999 reist Rineke Dijkstra af naar Liverpool om stad één grote bouwput. Verklaarbaar, want naast in de Buzz Club haar wereldberoemde opnames culturele hoofdstad heeft in 2008 ook de Liverpool te maken van de gabberjeugd. In de jaren tachtig Biënnale plaats. Taxichauffeurs klagen dat geen wordt Liverpool ineens de focus van belangrijke dag een route hetzelfde is, telkens worden andere fotografen, zoals Martin Parr, die er enige tijd wegen opengebroken en ze vragen zich af of alle woont. Maar Liverpool heeft ook tijden van grote bouwwerkzaamheden wel op tijd klaar zullen zijn. armoede gekend, het was ooit zelfs de armste Liverpool heeft, zoals elke stad, geweldig mooie stad van Groot Brittannië. Inmiddels is het met plekken – vooral wat architectuur betreft – en de werkeloosheid een stuk beter gesteld, zo weet ronduit lelijke. Zoals Waterstreet, waar een mo­ de bewaker van het gemeentehuis te vertellen. De dern gebouw met spiegelende gevel neergekwakt ‘Liverpooler’ – noem ze een ‘scouser’ en ze houden lijkt te zijn tussen architectuur van weleer. meteen van je – is vandaag de dag trots op zijn stad en al helemaal omdat Liverpool in 2008 Cul­ TATE EN KUNSTENAARSINITIATIEVEN turele Hoofdstad van Europa is. Het is een kleine Prachtig is de omgeving van de Albert Dock stad en het centrum is goed te belopen. Behalve (werelderfgoed), waar een filiaal van de Tate is dan in het voorjaar van 2007, op dat moment is de gevestigd. Een klein museum in vergelijking met 62 kunstbeeld.nl nr 5 2007 Empire Theatre Fontein bij William Brown Street Detail St. James’ Garden James’ St. Detail Katholieke kerk en Everyman Theatre Synagoge William Brown Street met Walker Art Gallery en County Sessions House de Londense vestiging, maar de tentoonstellingen Site. Een andere keer manifesteren ze zich in In de categorie hedendaags en ‘not to be missed’ zijn natuurlijk ‘Tate waardig’. Vanaf 19 oktober tot afbraakpanden. valt de installatie ‘Iron Man’ van de Britse Anthony en met 13 januari 2008 is in de Tate Liverpool de Het is raadzaam internet te checken voordat Gormley. Hiervoor moet je met de metro de stad Turner Prize tentoonstelling te zien, voor het eerst je een initiatief bezoekt, de beste site om te uit. Op slechts een kleine twintig minuten rijden, sinds de lancering van deze prijs in 1984 wordt raadplegen is www.artinliverpool.com, zeer ‘up stap je uit op een onooglijk stationnetje. Vervol­ deze buiten Londen gehouden. In de Albert Dock to date’ en uitgebreid. De meeste kunstenaars­ gens wandel je zo’n tien minuten richting het bevinden zich vele restaurantjes en overwegend initiatieven hebben wel een plek van waaruit ze strand en daar tref je vervolgens talloze beelden toeristische winkeltjes. In het hier eveneens zich manifesteren, veelal is dit een ruimte in het van Gormley in zee aan. Ze turen allen richting gelegen Site, presenteert het kunstenaarsinitiatief ateliercomplex. Noemenswaardig is hier Red Wire. de horizon en bevinden zich met hun lichaam The Royal Standard zich. Een gelegenheidsexposi­ Presenteert zich in de Carlisle Buildings, Victoria­ gedeeltelijk (al naar gelang het hoge of lage tij) tie want dit initiatief – weliswaar met een eigen street 67­69, even een paar trappen beklimmen, in zee. Prachtige poëtische installatie. Gedachten tentoonstellingsruimte elders – manifesteert zich maar dan kom je in een uiterst sympathiek com­ over eindigheid en vergankelijkheid doemen als doorgaans op verschillende plekken in de stad. De plex, waar de kunstenaars de beschikking hebben vanzelfsprekend op. Ben je in Liverpool, stap op groep heeft een ateliercomplex(je) in het buurtje over hele kleine ateliers. De grote voorruimte is die metro en mis dit niet. gelegen achter de kolossale Anglicaanse kathe­ bestemd voor tentoonstellingen. Dit initiatief draal, in een voormalige pub. Waar het dan ook geeft een bescheiden publicatie uit, met een ARCHITECTUURWANDELING nog steeds naar oud bier riekt. undergroundachtige uitstraling. Terug in de stad kun je vervolgens een architec­ De ateliers bevinden zich op de eerste etage en Op het gebied van internationale programmering tuurwandeling maken in Dale Street, waar je, opvallend genoeg worden relatief kleine ruimtes ben je aangewezen op meer gevestigde instituten. vanaf de Albert Dock eerst langs de Port of Liver­ (in vergelijking tot de oude schoollokalen die Vanzelfsprekend de Tate, maar ook FACT is een ab­ pool Building (1907) loopt, vervolgens langs het Nederlandse kunstenaars bijvoorbeeld mogen solute aanrader. Een filmhuis annex tentoonstel­ Royal Liver Building (1911), het gemeentehuis (1750) gebruiken) gedeeld door meer kunstenaars. Het lingsruimtes. Gevestigd in een bruisend buurtje, en de Oriel Chambers (1864). Dit laatst genoemde buurtje rondom de kathedraal herbergt verschil­ met vele restaurantjes en cafés. Daarnaast kun je gebouw is een fraai voorbeeld van een ijzer­ en lende kunstenaarsinitiatieven, maar je moet goed terecht bij het Bluecoat Arts Centre en bij glasconstructie. Hoe klein Liverpool ook is, er zijn zoeken en als je ze vindt, kan het meer dan eens A Foundation, maar ook hier geldt, check van te toch diverse wijkjes te noemen. Sommige bestaan voorkomen dat ze gesloten zijn. De ‘artist run voren goed of er een tentoonstelling is. Binnen uit niet meer dan drie straten, maar toch laat de spaces’ opereren in Liverpool op onregelmatige het galerieaanbod is een bezoekje aan de Open stad zich aardig indelen. basis. De ene keer worden ze uitgenodigd in een Eye Gallery wel leuk, ligt in de omgeving van FACT. Zo is er een culturele wijk. Hier bevindt zich de mainstream locatie, zoals in de hier al genoemde Open Eye brengt alleen fotografie. St. George’s Hall, maar ook de Walker Art Gallery. kunstbeeld.nl nr 5 2007 63 Red Wire Walker Art Gallery Anthony Gormley, ‘Iron Man’ Anthony Gormley, St. Luke’s Church Tate Liverpool Mode in de Walker Art Gallery Art Walker de in Mode Een museum met een kunstcollectie van de 14de echte Liverpooler kwalificeert het echter nog maal mee te doen. Het straatbeeld toont weinig tot de 20ste eeuw, met meesterwerken van Britse steeds als St. James Cemetery. Sinds 1936 is het met smaak geklede vrouwen (en mannen). Het schilders (zoals Turner). Naast de vaste collectie geen begraafplaats meer, maar een park. De graf­ aanbod van de winkels is overwegend ‘middle of organiseert het museum ook tentoonstellingen. zerken zijn behouden, een groot deel is tegen de the road’. Met een uitzondering daar gelaten, zo­ De Walker Art Gallery is een museum van beschei­ wanden van de toegangspaden geplaatst en tegen als het Met Quarter. Dit is een shopping mall met den formaat maar wel met kleine juweeltjes. Zoals de rotswanden. Fascinerend. In de zomer is dit kwaliteitsmerken, zoals Armani. Op het gebied een modehoekje. Niet meer dan twee vitrines, park een verzamelplek voor de Liverpoolers, niet van vintage en tweedehands kleding is er een maar toch. Hier wordt bijvoorbeeld van Vivienne alleen om elkaar te ontmoeten maar ook om naar complex dat de moeite waard is; het Grand Cen­ Westwood werk getoond uit de Buffalo Girls Col­ werken van Shakespeare te kijken. De kathedraal tral. En niet alleen vanwege de architectuur waarin lection, ook wel bekend als de Nostalgia of Mud bleef wonderlijk genoeg tijdens de Tweede Wereld de winkeltjes zijn gevestigd. Het gebouw bevindt Collection. Een titel voor een collectie die verwees Oorlog redelijk onbeschadigd. Dit in tegenstelling zich aan de Renshaw street, hartje centrum. In het de kleding van een zwerver. In de twee vitrines tot de St. Luke, even verderop gelegen. Alleen de complex kom je vele excentriekelingen tegen, vele komt heel compact een eeuw mode aan bod, muren staan er nog. De kerk is blijven staan als kleuren haar passeren je op de trap en of je nu een met als meeste recente namen Juicy Couture en monument, als gedenkplaats. In de omgeving van tattoo wilt laten zetten, naar de kapper wilt voor Tommy Hilfiger. Charmante presentatie. de Anglicaanse kathedraal bevindt zich ook een paarse ‘high lights’, op zoek bent naar een kekke Een bezoek aan de hiernaast gelegen bibliotheek Grieks Orthodoxe kerk alsmede een Synagoge. zonnebril of vintagetas, ben je hier aan het juiste is geen verloren tijd. Het exterieur is fotogeniek en Ronduit lelijk in dit rijtje historische monumen­ adres. In Liverpool zijn verder nog kleine vintage­ de omgeving van William Brown street is prettig ten is de moderne katholieke kerk, de Liverpool winkeltjes te vinden, noemenswaardig is hier The om te vertoeven. Maar ben je toch in de biblio­ Metropolitan Cathedral, gelegen in het univer­ Dressing Room. Beetje verstopt op de tweede theek, kun je hier het eerste uur gratis internetten. siteitswijkje (met onder meer de John Moores etage. Bijzondere avondtasjes en sieraden. Even naar de balie een gastpas vragen. Binnen de universiteit). Liverpool is een leuk stadje om te bezoeken, er is architectuurwandeling mogen zeker de heilige Opmerkelijk in Liverpool is de aanwezigheid van op het gebied van kunst en cultuur van alles te gebouwen van Liverpool niet ontbreken. De kolos­ een heuse Chinese wijk.
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