Predicting Abrasion Behaviour of Chenille Fabric by Fuzzy Logic 01
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Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol. 31. December 2006, pp. 50 1 -506 Predicting abrasion behaviour of chenille fabric by fu zzy logic E K (even & b bzdemir" Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture, Uludag University. Gorukle, Bursa 16059, Turkey and L Dagkurs Vocational School of Textile, Gazioslllanpa�a University. Ta�IJ(,:iftlik. Toka! Turkey 60240. Received Septelllber 2005; revised received Decelllber 2005; accepted 2 Fe/Jrt/{//Y2006 29 26 The effects of chcnille yarn count. pile length and yarn twist level on abrasion resistance of chenille fabric have been studied using fuzzy logic system. Different chenille yarns arc produced with varying yarn count, pile length and twist levcl on a chenille yarn machine. The viscose and acrylic have been used as pile and core yarns respectively and the fabrics arc woven from these yarns by using them as fi lling yarns in the weaving construction. Abrasion rcsistancc of chen ille fabrics is measured with a Mart indale abrasion tester. Experimental data arc used in the establishment of the fu zzy logic model and the construction of basic principles. It is observed that the use of high twist levels and pile lengths brings about an 0.978) improvement in abrasion resistance and the yarn count has a significant efrect on mass loss. Correlation analysis (r = confirms strong linear relationship between measured :l Ild predicted mass loss values. It is practically possible to obtain positive results wilh ahrasion resistance optimization in a more economical way by fuzzy logic system. Keywol'(ls: Abra,llIn resistance, Chenille yarn, Fuzzy logic, Pile length. Twist level, Yarn count Int. CLK D02G3/42. D03D27/00, G06N7/02 IPC Code: 1 Introduction Chenille is a difficult yarn to manufacture, Chenille yarn is a kind of fancy yarns which is requiring great care in production and conversion fascinating about its texture and gleam. These yarns into fi nal articles. Due to the instability of its are produced with the intention of producing an construction, chenille is susceptible to wear in those enhanced aesthetic impression. They fi nd a wide areas of the garment where abrasion occurs. such as range of application area including outerwear fabrics. the underarm, neckline, and waist. Any removal of the fu rnishing fabrics. trimmings and knitwear. pi Ie yarn forming the beard. either during fu rther Chenille yarnshave a pile protruding all around at processing or during the eventual end-use. will expose right angles. These are constructed by twisting core yarns together in chenille yarn machines where pile yarnsare inserted at right angles and cut to within I or 2 mm length to create a surface in which the fibres contained in the pile yarns burst and form a soft pile surface to the yarn. The basic structure of a chenille yarn is shown in Fig. 1. The core yarn gi ves the strength to cheni lie and Pile yarns I constitutes 25-30 % of the relative mass. The pi e (a) yarn is responsible for the body and bulk of the yarn 70-75 and constitutes {Iii } of the relative mass. The pile yarn should provide the desired aesthetic effect for the resulting chenille. I The count and number of the pile yarns and how much of them are fed onto the core determine the count of the chenille yarn.24 'To whom all the correspondence should be addressed. Fig. I -Chenille yarn structure I(a) chenille yarn components and E-mail: [email protected] (b) chenille yarn picture] 502 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER 2006 the ground yarns, which, in turn, will result in a bare count 2011 Ne. The chenille yarns of the count 6 Nm appearance.5 were produced using two core yarns of the count 2411 Despite the fact that chenille yarns are used to Ne (yarn twist 580 turns/m in Z direction, staple produce special fabrics with high added value, there is acrylic fibre) and one pile yarn of the count 3011 Ne. limited research available on the abrasion behaviour Thereafter, woven fabrics were produced with of such yarns and fabrics. Recently, several these chenille yarns using them as fi lling in the fabric researchers attempted to determine the effect of yarn construction on a Dornier weaving machine. For all structure (pile length, twist level, pile material type) fabrics, construction was satin [1/4 3(S)] weave, warp on abrasion characteristics.2-6 They used conventional yarn was polyester (150 denier, punched) and warp statistical test methods for their assessments and density was 66 ends/cm. Weft yarns were: 4 Nm predictions. chenille yarn with weft density of 10 picks/cm and 6 An alternativemethod, fuzzy logic, can be defined Nm chenille yarn with weft density of 14 picks/cm. as a mathematical model to study and define 2.2 Measurement of Fabric Abrasion Properties uncertainties. The importance of fuzzy logic has Abrasion tests of the woven cheni lie fabric samples continually increased, especially in engineering 7 9 were conducted on Martindale wear and abrasion studies. Fuzzy logic uses the fuzzy set theory and tester in accordance with ASTM 4158-82 (ref. 11). approximate reasoning to deal with imprecision and Before starting the abrasion tests, primary trials were ambiguity in decision making. It provides intuitive, made to determine the abrasion cycle that would be flexible ways to create fuzzy inference systems for suitable for the chenille fabric specimens. According solving complex control and classification problems. to the results of these trials, abrasion cycles were For classification applications, fuzzy logic is a limited with 10000 rubs and the cut samples were process of mapping an input space into an output weighed at the beginning and end of 10000 cycles. space using membership functions and linguistically 1o Mass loss ratios were obtained by dividing mass loss specifiedru les. after 10000 cycles to initial mass of the samples.12 The present study is aimed at analysing abrasion Measurements were repeated three times for each behaviour of chenille fabrics with fuzzy logic method. fabric type. The results were also analysed for The effects of the chenille yarn count, twist level and significance in differences using three-way repeated pile length on the fabric abrasion behaviour have been measure analysis of variance, and the means were studied at constant weave construction and yarn compared by Student-Newman-Keuls (SNK) test at 5 material using fuzzy logic. The chenille yarn % significance level in the COST A T statistical parameters that affect fabric abrasion have been package. Correlation analysis was performed to definedand an experimental study program designed. observe the relationship between actual fabric mass 2 Materials and Methods loss values and predicted fabric mass loss values 2.1 Preparation of Yarn and Fabric Samples obtained from fuzzy logic. The experiments involved chenille yarn samples 2.3 Determination of Chenille Fabric Abrasion Behaviour by manufactured from viscose pile yarns and acrylic core Fuzzy Logic and Construction of Basic Rules yarns. Since the viscose chenille yarns are highly The aim of this study was to check whether the vulnerable to abrasive forces, these are preferred to fuzzy logic system can be used for predicting the use, expecting that the assessment of the results will chenille fabric abrasion behaviour. To achieve this be more explicit. aim, it was necessary to compare the results obtained Chenille yarns were produced with a final count of by fuzzy logic with those obtained by real 4 Nm and 6 Nm incorporating two different pile measurements. lengths (0.7-1.0 mm) and two different twists (700- In fuzzy logic, uncertainty conditions are 850 turns/m in S direction) on a Gigliotti & determined by pre-defined membership functions. If Gualchieri chenille fancy yarn machine. Pile and core the most approximate element of the results is defined yarn materials were spun into chenille yarn under as 1, it can be understood that the other elements are identical conditions on this machine. 4 Nm count between 0 and 1 and they are changing continuously. chenille yarns were produced using two core yarns of The values of every element with the variation the count 2011 Ne (yarn twist 385 turns/m in Z between 0 and 1 are called membership degrees and direction, staple acrylic fibre) and one pile yarn of the the variation in a subset is called membership (:EVEN el PREDICTING ABRASION BEHAVIOUR OF CHENILLE FABRIC BY FUZZY LOGIC 01. : 503 function. After that, the definition of the fuzzy logic The results of the analysis of variance test rule base is implemented by using either Suggeno or (ANOY A) for mass loss values are summarized in Mamdani's method. After a solution of the Table 1. The P-values show that there are statistically implemented fuzzy logic system has been obtained by significant differences between mass loss values for using the selected method, the solution is defuzzified. different twist levels, pi Ie lengths and yarn counts. The defuzzification is called as the inverse operation Interactions between twist level and pi Ie length. of fuzzification.s between twist level and yarn count and also between Yarn count. pi Ie length and twist level were pi Ie length and yarn count have significant effects on selected as input variables, whereas fabric mass loss mass loss values. was the output variable. The fuzzy model of this Effect of Yarn Count on Abrasion Behaviour 3.1 problem is given in Fig. 2. Real values of fabric mass A comparison of the chenille fabrics in terms of loss have been obtained from the experimental study abrasion properties according to SNK test results for comparison with those obtained by fuzzy logic. (Table I) reveals that the abrasion resistance of the The Fuzzy Toolbox in MATLAB 6.5 was used for mathematical calculations.