Japanese Garners Attention in the U.S. for Its Quality and Diversity Healthy and Delightful Japanese Dishes A Report on the Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival 2010 : FLAVORS OF CULTURE Text and photos by Institute for International Culture

13th Annual Worlds of Flavor® International Conference & Festival

The 13th Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival (WOF), hosted and Culture, by the Culinary Institute of America as Japanese Chefs Wish to (CIA), was held from November 4 to 6, Convey it to American Chefs 2010 at the CIA campus in Napa Valley, California. The annual WOF is 1.Traditions and Innovations in the world’s largest conference for the Japanese Cuisine: An Inquiry into culinary arts, with roughly 800 partici- the Source of Diversity pants, including chefs, culinary art Yoshiki Tsuji【President of the Tsuji z To showcase the diversity of experts and food service professionals. Culinary Institute】 Japanese cuisine, three chefs representing the Edo (), Under the theme of “Japan: Flavors of Mr. Tsuji kicked off the first general session, and styles of tradi- tional cuisine made presenta- Culture,” the 2010 program included and invited Yosuke Imada (Ginza tions. 16 general sessions, 26 small-group Kyubey), Chef Yoshihiro Takahashi (Hyotei) seminars and 17 workshops and Chef Kunio Tokuoka (Kyoto Kitcho) to that offered detailed explanations, the stage for respective presentations on demonstrations, questions and answers , Edo-style and hassun. z and, most importantly, tastings. ①Edomae Sushi (Gizzard Shad and Japan has been the only country ) x except Spain (in 2006) to receive this Chef Imada explained that Edomae or Edo- sort of exclusive focus at the confer- style sushi must be eaten as soon as it is ence, and this is evidence of the made to appreciate its flavor. increasing interest in Japanese cuisine He also described how the practice of light- x The correct way to cut the chutoro (medium fatty tuna) block in the U.S. ly salting and marinating gizzard shad in was demonstrated, and sushi to eliminate the fishy smell, was made with fresh grat- ed with a shark skin grater. and then letting it stand for an hour or two to soften the small bones, are techniques developed in the (1603–1868). He mentioned that toro (fatty tuna) used to be discarded but became popular after beef entered the Japanese diet, and said “mari- nating in soy for just five minutes makes even low-priced tuna delicious.” ②Kaiseki (Sea Bream ) c Chef Takahashi explained, “With one year At the entrance of the WOF venue, American and divided into 24 solar terms, it is important c The colorful ingredients, white meat of sea bream, orange Japanese flags were raised to mark the theme for this for kaiseki, originally a style of dinner , brown oyster year’s forum. and green beans, served during a formal ceremony, to were a feast for the eyes. Top chefs active in the U.S., 39 renowned express the dawn of each term. Sea bream, chefs from Japan, and a number of whose resembles the word culinary arts educators and journalists for “auspicious,” is an indispensable food from Japan, as well as Japanese chefs for celebrations, and comes into season in working abroad all joined together to November.” Starting with the preparation make the conference and festival excit- of the fish, he demonstrated the making of ing and truly meaningful. a simple yet elegant sea bream soup. He This article gives an overview of some added grilled oyster mushrooms, orange- general sessions and seminars that hued and creamy kabocha tofu, and green this reporter was able to participate in, beans topped with aesthetically cut with a focus on the essence and diver- rind in a hot broth. He added “You v “In addition to taste, visual aesthetics are particularly impor- sity of Japanese cuisine, as well as on can appreciate the flavor of the soup better tant for hassun.” The were Japanese flavors that have been draw- if you slurp it, as slurping allows the aroma placed to create a picture. ing keen interest in the U.S. to pass through your nose.”

FOOD CULTURE 2 ③Hassun v (Previous page) , you must only draw the yanagi-ba Chef Tokuoka first explained that hassun is sashimi knife toward you when cutting, a dish meant to accompany . As a rule, without crushing the fish fibers. The cut seasonal from the mountains and determines how the sashimi tastes.” sea are placed on a square cedar tray. He was made by adding sake then arranged the foods as though he was and (dried bonito shavings) to creating a picture. “Since hassun is intense- . He also introduced the konbu- ly imbued with the chef’s message, it jime technique of placing lightly salted fish b The Golden Gate Bridge and should be eaten while the guests are still on konbu kelp to concentrate the of high-rise buildings of San the fish, (moisture is removed by the Francisco were easily repro- hungry and can discern the delicate fla- duced. vors.” and replaced by the umami of the konbu). In his session, Mr. Tsuji described Japan as ③Yuan- Marinated Salmon Grill m a small country with four major islands 70% Hisato Nakahigashi【Yasou Ichimian covered in mountain and forest, marked by Miyamasou】 an abundance of rivers and ocean. As warm Chef Nakahigashi explained that soaking and cold currents converge in Japan’s seas, lean fish in a yuan marinade, which is a the country enjoys a rich supply of fish. He mixture of white miso (fermented also explained the diversity of contemporary paste), sake, (sweet sake), dark soy Japanese cuisine by referring to the three sauce, yuzu and other citrus juice, provides major Edo Period (1603–1868) cities of Edo the fish with a soft-textured finish without (Tokyo), Kyoto and Osaka, where 260 years sacrificing any inherent flavor. He then n Sea bream with enhanced demonstrated the technique of searing only umami, which has been placed of isolation shaped Japan’s distinct culture. on konbu for 6 to 7 hours. Edo was a city of samurai warriors, where the marinated fish surface and sandwiching “fast foods” were developed to serve the it between cedar sheets to cook the fish mostly male population. Kaiseki and the art softly and flavorfully over a grill. of were developed in the ④Beef Konbu-Jime , ancient capital of Kyoto, where successive Kunio Tokuoka【Kyoto Kitcho】 emperors resided for 1200 years. Osaka was Chef Tokuoka said, “People universally a merchant city, where restaurants flourished desire certain taste qualities, and umami with rich clienteles. On the potential of from amino acid is one that gives us all a Japanese cuisine, Mr. Tsuji said. “As honzen lift.” He then made konbu-jime by sand- ryori (a highly ritualized and formal style of wiching raw beef between sheets of konbu. dining) and the art of tea ceremony gave “What our taste buds sense as delicious is a birth to shojin ryori (a ), synergy achieved by a combination of m Yuan miso marinade was Japanese cuisine continues to evolve in the inosinic and glutamic acids. developed to make savory fish st dishes in mountain-bound Kyoto. 21 century by offering new Japanese foods Beef has inosinic acid and konbu has glu- and dishes.” tamic acid. Chicken konbu-jime, and bonito stewed with tomato should present the 2.Ryotei and Kaiseki: Secrets of the same effect.” of Fine Dining Yoshiki Tsuji【President of the Tsuji 3.Japanese Casual: From Street Food Culinary Institute】 to Home , and Open Fire Following an introduction by Mr. Tsuji, Cooking four chefs delivered explanations and Hisashi Furuichi【CIA Alumni Club of demonstrations of kaiseki, a typical style of Japan, FEAST International Inc.】 Japanese cuisine. Mr. Furuichi reported that popular casual ①San Francisco Expressed with dining in Japan includes , m Autumnal dish of yuan-miso Sashimi b (a containing a vari- salmon, grilled between cedar sheets (used to add flavor and Masahiro Kurisu【Tankuma Kitamise】 ety of , and meats), tenderness). Chef Kurisu stated, “Foods should be pre- , (skewered and sented in a vessel that serves as a frame, grilled chicken), conveyor-belt sushi, just like when for drawing a picture on a noodles and noodles. canvas to express an image of natural Tokyo has 160,000 casual food shops, scenery.” He then depicted a view of San almost nine times the 18,696 such shops Francisco on a plate, with a Golden Gate found in New York. On the projectors, Bridge made from Maine , high-rise cooking scenes from remote were buildings made of flounder and tuna sashi- broadcast live. The characteristics of the mi, an Alcatraz of radish and wasabi, and dishes introduced are outlined below. added his own touch of autumn with col- ①Kushiage(Deep-Fried Foods on ored Japanese maple leaves. Skewer) , Usually, the konbu-jime tech- n Ikuro Mizuno【Rokukakutei】 nique is used for fish. ②Mukozuke: Sashimi Sandwiching beef between konbu Shigeo Araki【Uosaburo】 The was unique, with olive oil and to seal in the umami introduces a whole new flavor. Chef Araki explained, “To make perfect white wine added to flour and water.

3 FOOD CULTURE ②One-Spoon Ramen “Unlike Edo-style sushi, Osaka sushi is Yasuji Morizumi【CHABUYA】 refrigerated for three days after pressure is Ramen noodles topped with uncured ham, applied to the ingredients, including the black pepper and a dried mullet called sushi rice, placed in a mold. This allows the karasumi, all accented with soy sauce. salt and vinegar to make the fish firm and ③Ramen flavorful.” After this explanation, Chef Ivan Orkin【Ivan Ramen】 Komaki demonstrated with anago sushi. Ramen in salted soup made by a non- ⑤ (Boxed ) ⁄4 (next page) Japanese chef Masahiro Kurisu【Tankuma Kitamise】 . The audience was momentarily . Chef Kurisu explained, “Food is placed stunned when Chef Maeda ④Udon Noodles placed the on the floor and Yoshihiro Maeda【Hanamaru Udon】 into the box with consideration given to the started stomping on it. Udon dough, prepared by kneading a mix- season, colors and balance of flavors, and ture of medium-strength flour, salt and each piece must either be bite-sized or easi- water, was stomped on to make firm, ly breakable with .” He then chewy-textured noodles. completed a gorgeous box meal containing ⑤Modern-Yaki ⁄0 ten culinary treats. Katsumi Kashihara【Yakiyaki Miwa】 Stir-fried and -fla- 5.How to Give Depth to Flavor: Umami, vored noodles sandwiched between Dashi and Seasonal Ingredients okonomiyaki . The batter contains Hiroko Shimbo【Japanese cuisine consul- flour, Japanese yam, dashi and soymilk. tant】& Harold McGee【Food writer】 Ms. Shimbo stated that breast milk is not ⁄0 Modern-yaki, containing shred- ⑥Yakitori ded cabbage, , shrimp, Katsunori Yashima【Yakitori Hachibei】 only complete in nutrients but also highly squid, octopus and deep-fried batter crumbs, was topped with A dipping sauce made of soy sauce, mirin, rich in umami, and Mr. McGee reported Worcester sauce, katsuobushi, that umami is found in tomatoes, mush- dried and mayon- , konbu and katsuobushi, and the tech- naise. nique of constantly fanning bincho char- rooms and cheese. Mr. McGee also said coal (made from ubame oak) to raise the that the U.S. culinary world is advancing heat to 900ºC, are both essential when from umami to other things. Chef Murata making good yakitori. followed with a demonstration. ①Proper Way to Make Dashi ⁄5 (next page) 4.Mastering Techniques: Soba Yoshihiro Murata 【Kikunoi, Kyoto】 Noodles, , Vegetarian Chef Murata described the complexity of Flavors, and More umami and stressed the importance of dashi Five chefs showcased their traditional arti- in Japanese cuisine. “Umami-rich dashi is san skills. Among them, Chef Horii’s healthy with almost no calorific value. ⁄1 Standing ovations were given for the performance, starting from efforts when kneading the buckwheat dough Umami enhances the spirit, as seen in the the kneading to the precision cut- relationship between shojin ryori and the ting of thinly rolled dough with the with all of his soul received loud cheers heavy specialized knife. from the generally reserved audience. serene lifestyles of Buddhist monks. ①Soba Noodles ⁄1 The typical ingredients of dashi are konbu, Yoshinori Horii【Sarashina Horii】 katsuobushi and dried mushrooms. The entire process of making ni-hachi (2 to Water with a hardness of no more than 60 8) soba was demonstrated, from mixing is recommended. As glutamic acid from eight parts of newly-harvested green buck- konbu is known to coagulate at 80°C, it is wheat flour with two parts of wheat flour, best to soak konbu in 60°C water for an to the final cutting. hour. In this state, glutamic acid dissolves ②Tempura ⁄2 30% more than it would in hotter water. Hitoshi Arai【Tenko】 After the konbu is removed, bring the liq- Explanations included this gem: “As the uid to a boil and add katsuobushi. The syn- ⁄2 The explanation was easy to understand. Tempura becomes ingredients lose moisture, the sound will ergetic effect of the konbu’s glutamic acid crispy and delicious as moisture is removed from the ingredients quiet down and the foam will subside. You and the katsuobushi’s inosinic acid increas- and the oil enters. will know when the frying is done by using es the umami levels in the broth eight-fold. your visual and auditory senses.” The umami of dried shiitake is guanylic ③An Assortment of Simmered acid. When shiitake is added to the konbu Vegetables ⁄3 broth, the synergetic effect raises the Daisuke Nomura【Buddhist Vegetarian umami levels by 16 times, making it a par- Cuisine, DAIGO】 ticularly good dashi for vegetarian dishes. “Vegetables should be of five colors, each cooked individually with the most suitable 6.Regional Dishes: Diversity in method.” The dish featured separately sim- Ingredients, Cooking and Festivals mered turnips, taro, kabocha, , car- Takahiko Yoshimoto【MYU Planning & Operators Inc.】 ⁄3 A blend of variously colored rots, and snow peas. vegetables, individually cooked ④Hako-Zushi (Box-Pressed Sushi) Mr. Yoshimoto suggested the geography and then artistically assembled. Shiro Komaki【Sushiman】 and climate extending 3,200 km north to

FOOD CULTURE 4 south, and the four distinct seasons, as rea- than 100 varieties of fresh fish are neatly sons for Japan’s diversity in foods and laid out for easy inspection. Intermediate cooking methods. In addition, Japan has wholesalers and licensed buyers then com- adopted overseas and transformed pete in the bidding. After the auction, fish them into uniquely new dishes. ’s tagged with their winning bid are displayed castella, for example, is a specialty derived at wholesalers’ stalls. This system has from Spanish sponge cake, and ’s remained unchanged since the mid 17th cen- mizutaki chicken is a healthy modi- tury. Shun (Seasonality) refers to food that ⁄4 Foods are placed one by one fication of an ancient Chinese dish. is fresh and signifies the season. into the box, with attention given has been handed down Color, shape and an unblemished appear- to the season, colors and bal- ance, as well as to the amount or from one generation to the next. However, ance indicate quality, and are referred to as size of each item. since the 1990s a number of dietary prob- Kata. Dr. Bestor explained the process at lems have emerged, partly due to the aging Tsukiji, including the technical terms used and shrinking population, the trend toward at the market. nuclear families, globalization, and increased numbers of convenience stores and supermarkets. To counter these trends, Chef Education in the U.S., regional cuisines are gaining new attention and the Japanese Diet as part of the slow food movement, healthy diet trends and ”buy local” policies. After 1.Japanese Cuisine, Global Palates, describing major foods and dishes by and the Education of American Chefs ⁄5 Chef Murata measured the region, the chefs demonstrated their skills Dr. Tim Ryan, C.M.C., Ed.D., M.B.A. water temperature to confirm it was exactly 60°C when showing with these dishes to showcase regional 【President of the CIA】 how to make good dashi. diversity. Dr. Ryan outlined the growth of Japanese ①Jibuni of Kanazawa ⁄6 cuisine in the U.S. He explained that Shinichiro Takagi【Japanese Cuisine Japanese restaurants began to appear in the Zeniya】 U.S. in the late 1960s and today number Simmered duck meat, fu () and more than 10,000 in North America. He taro in a thick soup with boiled spinach. also mentioned that it has been 50 years ②Shottsuru-nabe of Akita Prefecture ⁄7 since the 300-year old Kikkoman Taro Abe【Washoku Otafuku】 Corporation expanded into the U.S. The A hot pot with monkfish as the primary ingredient was flavored with shottsuru fish sauce, which is a specialty of Akita made ⁄6 Jibuni is a representative dish from sailfin sandfish. of Kanazawa. Floured duck meat and other ingredients are sim- ③Maasu-ni of Okinawa ⁄8 mered in dashi seasoned with soy Tamotsu Yabiku【Loisir Hotel & Spa sauce, sake, sugar and mirin. Tower Naha】 and simmered in katsuobushi-based dashi seasoned with salt and turmeric, served in a large bowl for shared con- sumption.

7.Japan’s Fish Markets and 5S1K Dr. Theodore C. Bestor 【Professor of Social Anthropology at Dr. Ryan spoke about the prominent international profile Reischauer Institute of Japanese Studies, of Japanese cuisine and the outcome of CIA education focused on Japanese flavors. ⁄7 Shottsuru, as is, has a strong Harvard University】 odor. However, when diluted and used to flavor soup for a hot-pot Dr. Bestor described the Tsukiji wholesale international esteem given to Japanese cui- dish, Chef Abe explained that it becomes a savory ingredient. market, which deals in 540,000 tons of sine is evidenced by the fact that the 2011 seafood worth 434.5 billion yen each year, Michelin Guide awarded three stars to as the world’s largest fish market. He twelve restaurants in Kansai and eleven in explained that the Uogashi fish market in Tokyo, while New York has only four 3- Nihonbashi (early Edo Period) was the ori- star restaurants and even Paris has only ten. gin of today’s Tsukiji market, and that in Dr. Ryan also reported that at the CIA, the 1620s fish were both delivered from American menus made with a healthy dose Uogashi to the shogun at Edo castle, and of Japanese flavors are taught as part of the sold in the open market. A fish auction curriculum, and many prominent American depends on the “five Ss and one K.” These chefs, including David Chang of are Shitami (Inspection), Shinsen as well as many Japanese, have ⁄8 Maasu-ni uses only salt and (Freshness), Shun (Seasonality), Senbetsu been graduates. The interest young turmeric for , and is a light, refreshing dish from (Discrimination), Soroi (Selection) and American chefs show towards Japanese Okinawa. Kata (Appearance). Prior to auction, more cuisine has grown so much that many

5 FOOD CULTURE aspire to be like , an ①New Flavor of Tuna ⁄9 . Masaharu Morimoto【Iron Chef Japanese, Iron Chef America, NY】 2.The Japanese Diet and Longevity With a block of tuna cured overnight in a Lawrence H. Kushi, ScD mixture of salt and brown sugar, Chef 【Kaiser Parmanente, Oakland,CA】 Morimoto made a using virgin olive Dr. Kushi, who has been studying preventive oil with Kikkoman soy sauce and other medicine in a major U.S. healthcare organi- Japanese ingredients. zation, explained that Japanese lead the ②Dish with Maca (Lepidium meyenii) ¤0 ⁄9 A dish of toro prepared with a world in longevity with an average life Western culinary technique. A Toshiro Konishi【Toshiro's, Lima, Peru】 whole new flavor is brought out of expectancy of 86.44 years for women and Chef Konishi prepares a sea bream konbu- the tuna by curing it overnight in a mixture of salt and brown sugar. 79.54 for men (as of 2009). He added that jime dish with grated maca root as a condi- the U.S. was ranked 24th in the world for ment, along with tartar sauce and horserad- healthy life expectancy in 2004, at 69.2 ish. Maca grows high in the Andes years, while the Japanese average was 75.0 Mountains, and has long been used by the years. He then compared the countries with a Indio to prevent horses from getting alti- focus on Japanese cuisine and food intake. tude illness and to promote fertility. He explained that while ③Bonito with Mediterranean Flavors is marked by the use of dairy products Hideki Matsuhisa【Koy Shunka, Barcelona, and cooking in oil, Japanese cooking uses Spain】 basically fire and water. Fresh ingredients To suit the local palate, Chef Matsushita adds chosen for their natural flavor, texture and ¤0 Thinking that local ingredients the Spanish flavors of olive oil and tomato to will make Japanese dishes more color, as well as fermented foods such as sauce containing a katsuobushi-based approachable for people in other countries, Chef Konishi uses soy sauce, miso and vinegar are also used dashi, and uses it to dress bonito (light- maca. in Japan. In addition, individual servings ly seared sashimi). in Japan are considerably smaller. ④Sushi with Diversely Prepared Rice Americans consume twice as much cere- Mitsunori Kusakabe【Sushi Ran, al and sugar, and three times as much in Sausalito, CA】 and dairy products. Yet, Chef Kusakabe shared his creative idea for Americans consume half as much innovative sushi, presenting seven ways to seafood and tea, and almost no prepare sushi rice: by roasting, frying, or sea vegetables. As the rate of cardio- , sautéing, freezing, fermenting, vascular disease among Americans is and extracting. 70% greater than that among Japanese, ⑤Chilled Noodles with Tuna Tartar 21 ¤1 he recommended that Americans get Hiro Sone【Terra, St. Helena, CA】 ¤1 A chilled dish of somen noo- dles with tamago (boiled more protein from soybean products, and Somen (thin vermicelli-style wheat noo- with soft egg-white and partly that they consume more , sea hardened ) and tuna, modified dles) with toppings of , diced as a Western-style dish. vegetables and mushrooms. “Seafood tuna, finely cut Japanese leek and and marine products are healthier than (), and yuzu pepper paste, served red meat, and eating fish daily reduces chilled in soup. the risk of disease. There is also a ⑥French Dish with Japanese Seasoning recognized correlation between the Taizo Yoshikawa【Chef for Japan’s U.N. intake of red meat and colon cancer.”He Ambassador, NY】 cited recent trends. As a result of the Creamy, green soybean soup topped with Western diet reaching Japan, many raisins and salmon. This reporter noticed Japanese are now overweight, and Japan the distinctly Japanese taste coming from is now campaigning to prevent metabolic the texture of coarsely mashed green soy- syndrome. He recommended that people ¤2 The dashi was uniquely fla- beans and the flavor of sansho. vored with lemongrass and pep- learn from Japanese cuisine, especially ⑦French-American Dashi ¤2 percorns via a siphon. seasonal and regional dishes, and kaiseki Takashi Yagihashi【Takashi Restaurant, and shojin cuisines. Chicago, IL】 A deep fried sandwich of lotus root with meat filling, and sashimi were New Japanese Flavors Proposed by served with dashi flavored with lemongrass Japanese Chefs Based Overseas and peppercorns fed through a siphon. ⑧Autumnal Japanese Cake ¤3 Challenges Taken Up by Chefs Working Mitsuharu Kurokawa【Toraya, Paris, on the Global Stage 】 Seeking to blend Japanese cuisine with Autumn is expressed with orange bean local ingredients and sensibilities, a number paste shaped to resemble a persimmon, of chefs introduced culinary creations ¤3 A persimmon was beautifully and a Napa Valley vineyard is represent- reproduced with orange colored inspired by encounters with local foods and ed with purple colored bean paste shaped bean paste. With the green stem, the completed Japanese cake cooking techniques. to make a bunch of grapes. looked just like the fruit itself.

FOOD CULTURE 6 ③Chilled Shabu-Shabu, and Soy New Japanese Cuisine Beans Dressed with Mashed Tofu ¤6 Drawing Inspiration from Other Yoshihiro Murata【Kyoto Kikunoi】 Categories Chilled beef shabu-shabu placed over a -based sauce on a plate, with toppings 1.New Flavor Born from French Culinary of Japanese leak, radish sprouts and Art Experience rosemary flowers, and served with ponzu Popular Japanese chefs acclaimed for incor- sauce containing lemon juice, was a bright ¤4 Miso eliminates the smell of porating Japanese flavors in and cheering dish. The salad of soybeans beef and yet enhances its flavor. were introduced with their unique recipes. boiled in salted water and dressed with a sauce made by mixing mashed tofu and lean ①Salmon and Sea Salad chicken paste was rich in soybean flavor and and Steak of Tasty Beef isoflavones. Kiyomi Mikuni【Hotel de Mikuni】 Vinegar-marinated salmon was placed on a jelly seasoned with sun-dried sea salt and Japanese Taste made of green, red and white sea vegeta- Proposed by American Chefs bles, garnished with herbs and orange peel, and served with an orange juice-based There are some popular chefs in the U.S. sauce to create a refreshing salad. Wasabi, who have a deep understanding and respect mirin, soy sauce and miso added Japanese for traditional Japanese cuisine, and who ¤5 An amazing dish of sautéed flavor to a steak that was grilled over burn- use this to take adventurous leaps in invent- foie gras with crown daisy sauce at the center, and fu soufflé with ing rice straw to impregnate the meat with ing remarkably innovative cooking meth- pureed truffles on both sides. a smoked flavor, and shredded laver ods and recipes. was sprinkled before serving. Chef Mikuni This section introduces some recent dishes stressed, “While the fifth taste is umami, presented by these pioneering chefs in sev- the sixth is fat.” eral seminars. ②Beef and Miso ¤4 ①Aggressive Chef Kihachi Kumagai【Kihachi】 Charcoal Grilled Pork Braised with A dish of beef cooked in miso sauce (a blend Daikon Radish ¤7 of white miso and red haccho miso) and red David Chang【Momofuku Bar and wine, and garnished with green asparagus. other locations in NY】 ③Foie Gras and Fu with Crown Daisy The pork was charcoal grilled after being Leaves Sauce ¤5 boiled in pork seasoned with light ¤6 Chilled beef shabu-shabu was Masayasu Yonemura【Restaurant soy sauce, coca cola, bourbon, flavoring placed on a blend of soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar, lemon juice Yonemura】 vegetables and . and sesame paste. Fu (wheat gluten), soaked in milk and egg Then, the grilled pork was simmered with and sautéed, was topped with pureed truf- daikon radish, carrots, Japanese leeks and fles, while sautéed foie gras was topped burdock in konbu and katsuobushi dashi. with a sauce in which crown daisy leaves ②Modern Luxury Dish soaked in konbu and katsuobushi dashi Striped Jack and on were blended with tofu, sesame paste and Cauliflower Sauce with Dashi Gelée ¤8 wasabi, and sprinkled with almonds. Douglas Keane【Cyrus, Healdsburg, CA】 Finally it was topped with a drizzling of red Dashi made by using shavings of dried wine and fond de veau sauce. tuna and katsuobushi, seasoned with 2.Modern Japanese Cuisine white soy sauce, sake, citrus ①A Little Unique Sushi juice, and mirin, to which was added ¤7 Pork simmered American style, Shigeru Toyama【Ginza Kyubey】 julienned shiso, was made into a gelée then charcoal grilled and again simmered Japanese style over Sushi of soy sauce-seasoned salmon roe with gelatin. The striped jack sashimi reduced charcoal heat, to make an entirely new menu item. fenced in by a strip of nori, and hand- and sea urchin were placed on a cauli- formed sushi made with lightly seared toro flower cream paste, the dashi gelée was were introduced. poured over it, and juli- ②Konbu Dashi and Chicken Bouillon enne and red shiso sprouts were added as Kunio Tokuoka【Kyoto Kitcho】 garnish. In addition to clear sea bream soup, a typi- ③Pursuit of Japanese Taste cal dish that adopts the synergy between Seared Foie Gras Sushi with the umami of sea bream head and bones Chocolate Kabayaki Sauce ¤9 (next page) and the umami of konbu, Chef Tokuoka Tim Cushman【O Ya (Japanese restau- presented clear chicken soup by replacing rant), Boston, MA】 the sea bream with chicken wing tips. He Sushi rice, shaped with a ring mold and ¤8 A Japanese-style French dish added, “All chefs should remember the topped with a pinch of wasabi, was with sashimi placed on cauli- flower cream paste, over which a working people who catch the fish and wrapped with nori around its perimeter. gelée made of tuna and bonito- flavor dashi was poured. grow the vegetables.” Topped with seared foie gras, it was sprin-

7 FOOD CULTURE kled with chocolate laced kabayaki sauce, American version is now popular in the and rounded off with raisins cooked in U.S. The kitchen stadium was set up on the cocoa and maple syrup and Arima sansho last day of the WOF, and four chefs pepper. engaged in a competition of culinary ideas ④ in San Francisco using the theme ingredients of kabocha Autumn Vegetable Soup Served Cold ‹0 squash and mushrooms. Nicolaus Balla【Nombe Restaurant (Izakaya), SF, CA】 ◆Masaharu Morimoto ‹1 In a wide bowl, thin slices of young yellow- A pine-smoked fillet of greater amberjack ¤9 A new sushi of seared foie tail sashimi were placed on maitake mush- belly was served with matsutake sauce sea- gras, with raisin topping and chocolate flavored kabayaki rooms, steamed butternut squash, turnips, soned with konbu dashi and Kikkoman soy sauce. shiitake mushrooms and carrots. Dashi sauce, as well as with kabocha . made by using konbu (kelp), dried shiitake, ◆David Chang maitake and katsuobushi and seasoned with A soup of matsutake extract, cooked in white soy sauce was poured over it, and white miso, sake and water. finely broken sea kelp was sprin- ◆Masayasu Yonemura ‹2 kled on top to complete the dish. This is a Grilled prawns and matsutake, seasoned wonderful starter dish to be shared by sev- with salt and pepper, were placed in a eral guests. bowl. Added to this was kabocha soup pre- pared with coconut milk, chicken bouillon and maccha green tea powder, accented Iron Chef and Top Chefs from with amaretto. ‹0 In a large flat bowl meant to be shared by several guests, sashimi Kyoto and New York ◆Kunio Tokuoka ‹3 placed on vegetables was served amidst a dashi sauce made with Preparing Quality Autumn Beef, prepared with the konbu-jime tech- avocado oil. Ingredients from California nique, was lightly cooked shabu-shabu style in warm water. Then the beef, matsu- “Iron Chef” was originally a Japanese TV take and stir fried onions were put together, cooking program that aired for six years formed into balls and covered with pureed from 1993 to 1999 with 200 episodes. Its kabocha.

Closing Remarks

‹1 Chef Morimoto used the spe- Targeting an American audience, the pre- French cuisine. I realized the depth of cially carved ice housing to sentations were structured to include Japanese cuisine” and “Japanese dishes smoke the greater amberjack with detailed accounts of basic culinary matters are aromatic.” The influence of Japanese pine chips. that are common knowledge in Japan. cuisine in expanding from umami to the Japanese presenters particularly empha- next sense of taste was suggested. sized that Japanese cuisine has been nur- Visitors were treated to Japanese chefs tured through a long history in a rich natur- who delivered accurate explanations of the al environment with four distinct seasons. basics of Japanese cooking and explained It was also stressed that Japan is blessed the depth and breadth of Japanese cuisine with seasonal ingredients that have sup- ranging from kaiseki to casual foods, ported the health and lifestyles of the Japanese chefs who are based overseas . and have pursued new Japanese flavors that please the local palate, Japanese chefs who presented innovative dishes that took advantage of their expertise in French culinary techniques, and American ‹2 Kabocha soup with grilled chefs who introduced unique and adven- prawns and matsutake was a dish turous dishes using Japanese ingredients of unique combinations. combined with Western flavors. Every one of them delivered tantalizing and memo- rable cuisine, and gave us an idea of the directions of Japanese cuisine in the future. Japanese cuisine and Japanese ingredi- At the closing ceremony, all of the American and ents are being transformed into diverse Japanese chefs went on stage and received rousing appearances, forms and flavors by the applause. many culinary hands who see them as sources of a new food culture progressing Comments from American journalists in many parts of the world. Feeling both included: “Japanese ingredients and food bedazzled and sated, this happy reporter presentation have affected American and left Napa Valley. ‹3 The dish of konbu-jime beef balls covered with pureed kabocha and garnished with char- coal grilled matsutake was rich in Text and photos by Ichie Funada. Additional photos courtesy of CIA, Tsuji Culinary Institute and Taikyokusha Co.,ltd. autumn flavor.

FOOD CULTURE 8