Japanese Cuisine Garners Attention in the U.S. for Its Quality and Diversity
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Japanese Cuisine Garners Attention in the U.S. for Its Quality and Diversity Healthy and Delightful Japanese Dishes A Report on the Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival 2010 JAPAN: FLAVORS OF CULTURE Text and photos by Kikkoman Institute for International Food Culture 13th Annual Worlds of Flavor® International Conference & Festival The 13th Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival (WOF), hosted Japanese Cuisine and Culture, by the Culinary Institute of America as Japanese Chefs Wish to (CIA), was held from November 4 to 6, Convey it to American Chefs 2010 at the CIA campus in Napa Valley, California. The annual WOF is 1.Traditions and Innovations in the world’s largest conference for the Japanese Cuisine: An Inquiry into culinary arts, with roughly 800 partici- the Source of Diversity pants, including chefs, culinary art Yoshiki Tsuji【President of the Tsuji z To showcase the diversity of experts and food service professionals. Culinary Institute】 Japanese cuisine, three chefs representing the Edo (Tokyo), Under the theme of “Japan: Flavors of Mr. Tsuji kicked off the first general session, Kyoto and Osaka styles of tradi- tional cuisine made presenta- Culture,” the 2010 program included and invited Chef Yosuke Imada (Ginza tions. 16 general sessions, 26 small-group Kyubey), Chef Yoshihiro Takahashi (Hyotei) seminars and 17 kitchen workshops and Chef Kunio Tokuoka (Kyoto Kitcho) to that offered detailed explanations, the stage for respective presentations on demonstrations, questions and answers kaiseki, Edo-style sushi and hassun. z and, most importantly, tastings. ①Edomae Sushi (Gizzard Shad and Japan has been the only country Tuna) x except Spain (in 2006) to receive this Chef Imada explained that Edomae or Edo- sort of exclusive focus at the confer- style sushi must be eaten as soon as it is ence, and this is evidence of the made to appreciate its flavor. increasing interest in Japanese cuisine He also described how the practice of light- x The correct way to cut the chutoro (medium fatty tuna) block in the U.S. ly salting and marinating gizzard shad in was demonstrated, and sushi rice vinegar to eliminate the fishy smell, was made with fresh wasabi grat- ed with a shark skin grater. and then letting it stand for an hour or two to soften the small bones, are techniques developed in the Edo period (1603–1868). He mentioned that toro (fatty tuna) used to be discarded but became popular after beef entered the Japanese diet, and said “mari- nating in soy sauce for just five minutes makes even low-priced tuna delicious.” ②Kaiseki (Sea Bream Soup) c Chef Takahashi explained, “With one year At the entrance of the WOF venue, American and divided into 24 solar terms, it is important c The colorful ingredients, white meat of sea bream, orange Japanese flags were raised to mark the theme for this for kaiseki, originally a style of dinner kabocha tofu, brown oyster year’s forum. mushrooms and green beans, served during a formal tea ceremony, to were a feast for the eyes. Top chefs active in the U.S., 39 renowned express the dawn of each term. Sea bream, chefs from Japan, and a number of whose Japanese name resembles the word culinary arts educators and journalists for “auspicious,” is an indispensable food from Japan, as well as Japanese chefs for celebrations, and comes into season in working abroad all joined together to November.” Starting with the preparation make the conference and festival excit- of the fish, he demonstrated the making of ing and truly meaningful. a simple yet elegant sea bream soup. He This article gives an overview of some added grilled oyster mushrooms, orange- general sessions and seminars that hued and creamy kabocha tofu, and green this reporter was able to participate in, beans topped with aesthetically cut yuzu with a focus on the essence and diver- rind in a hot dashi broth. He added “You v “In addition to taste, visual aesthetics are particularly impor- sity of Japanese cuisine, as well as on can appreciate the flavor of the soup better tant for hassun.” The foods were Japanese flavors that have been draw- if you slurp it, as slurping allows the aroma placed to create a picture. ing keen interest in the U.S. to pass through your nose.” FOOD CULTURE 2 ③Hassun v (Previous page) sashimi, you must only draw the yanagi-ba Chef Tokuoka first explained that hassun is sashimi knife toward you when cutting, a dish meant to accompany sake. As a rule, without crushing the fish fibers. The cut seasonal delicacies from the mountains and determines how the sashimi tastes.” sea are placed on a square cedar tray. He Dipping sauce was made by adding sake then arranged the foods as though he was and katsuobushi (dried bonito shavings) to creating a picture. “Since hassun is intense- soy sauce. He also introduced the konbu- ly imbued with the chef’s message, it jime technique of placing lightly salted fish b The Golden Gate Bridge and should be eaten while the guests are still on konbu kelp to concentrate the umami of high-rise buildings of San the fish, (moisture is removed by the salt Francisco were easily repro- hungry and can discern the delicate fla- duced. vors.” and replaced by the umami of the konbu). In his session, Mr. Tsuji described Japan as ③Yuan-Miso Marinated Salmon Grill m a small country with four major islands 70% Hisato Nakahigashi【Yasou Ichimian covered in mountain and forest, marked by Miyamasou】 an abundance of rivers and ocean. As warm Chef Nakahigashi explained that soaking and cold currents converge in Japan’s seas, lean fish in a yuan marinade, which is a the country enjoys a rich supply of fish. He mixture of white miso (fermented soybean also explained the diversity of contemporary paste), sake, mirin (sweet sake), dark soy Japanese cuisine by referring to the three sauce, yuzu and other citrus juice, provides major Edo Period (1603–1868) cities of Edo the fish with a soft-textured finish without (Tokyo), Kyoto and Osaka, where 260 years sacrificing any inherent flavor. He then n Sea bream with enhanced demonstrated the technique of searing only umami, which has been placed of isolation shaped Japan’s distinct culture. on konbu for 6 to 7 hours. Edo was a city of samurai warriors, where the marinated fish surface and sandwiching “fast foods” were developed to serve the it between cedar sheets to cook the fish mostly male population. Kaiseki and the art softly and flavorfully over a grill. of tea ceremony were developed in the ④Beef Konbu-Jime , ancient capital of Kyoto, where successive Kunio Tokuoka【Kyoto Kitcho】 emperors resided for 1200 years. Osaka was Chef Tokuoka said, “People universally a merchant city, where restaurants flourished desire certain taste qualities, and umami with rich clienteles. On the potential of from amino acid is one that gives us all a Japanese cuisine, Mr. Tsuji said. “As honzen lift.” He then made konbu-jime by sand- ryori (a highly ritualized and formal style of wiching raw beef between sheets of konbu. dining) and the art of tea ceremony gave “What our taste buds sense as delicious is a birth to shojin ryori (a vegetarian cuisine), synergy achieved by a combination of m Yuan miso marinade was Japanese cuisine continues to evolve in the inosinic and glutamic acids. developed to make savory fish st dishes in mountain-bound Kyoto. 21 century by offering new Japanese foods Beef has inosinic acid and konbu has glu- and dishes.” tamic acid. Chicken konbu-jime, and bonito stewed with tomato should present the 2.Ryotei and Kaiseki: Secrets of the same effect.” Japanese Art of Fine Dining Yoshiki Tsuji【President of the Tsuji 3.Japanese Casual: From Street Food Culinary Institute】 to Home Cooking, and Open Fire Following an introduction by Mr. Tsuji, Cooking four chefs delivered explanations and Hisashi Furuichi【CIA Alumni Club of demonstrations of kaiseki, a typical style of Japan, FEAST International Inc.】 Japanese cuisine. Mr. Furuichi reported that popular casual ①San Francisco Expressed with dining in Japan includes hamburgers, m Autumnal dish of yuan-miso Sashimi b okonomiyaki (a pancake containing a vari- salmon, grilled between cedar sheets (used to add flavor and Masahiro Kurisu【Tankuma Kitamise】 ety of vegetables, seafoods and meats), tenderness). Chef Kurisu stated, “Foods should be pre- ramen noodles, yakitori (skewered and sented in a vessel that serves as a frame, grilled chicken), conveyor-belt sushi, soba just like when for drawing a picture on a buckwheat noodles and udon noodles. canvas to express an image of natural Tokyo has 160,000 casual food shops, scenery.” He then depicted a view of San almost nine times the 18,696 such shops Francisco on a plate, with a Golden Gate found in New York. On the projectors, Bridge made from Maine lobster, high-rise cooking scenes from remote kitchens were buildings made of flounder and tuna sashi- broadcast live. The characteristics of the mi, an Alcatraz of radish and wasabi, and dishes introduced are outlined below. added his own touch of autumn with col- ①Kushiage(Deep-Fried Foods on ored Japanese maple leaves. Skewer) , Usually, the konbu-jime tech- n Ikuro Mizuno【Rokukakutei】 nique is used for fish. ②Mukozuke: Sashimi Sandwiching beef between konbu Shigeo Araki【Uosaburo】 The batter was unique, with olive oil and to seal in the umami introduces a whole new flavor. Chef Araki explained, “To make perfect white wine added to flour and water. 3 FOOD CULTURE ②One-Spoon Ramen “Unlike Edo-style sushi, Osaka sushi is Yasuji Morizumi【CHABUYA】 refrigerated for three days after pressure is Ramen noodles topped with uncured ham, applied to the ingredients, including the black pepper and a dried mullet roe called sushi rice, placed in a mold.