BORNA FILIĆ/PIXSELL INSTAGRAM* It’s summer in the city Summertime in is here – you can spend your first summer days at INmusic festival on Lake (more on p.6). Swimming season has begun at Zagreb’s beach, while the jogging, sailing, rowing and rollerblading season never ended. Enjoy Jarun – and check out other tips for the best summer in the city in Zagreb For You’s June edition.

LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY JUNE 2019

* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr ZAGREB’S FIRST FIRST AND ONLY MINUTE SKYSCRAPER* Tune into the Zagreb time Skyscraper. Whoever you ask in Zagreb, only Clocks measure time, but ev- one comes to mind – and everyone knows it as ery city has its own rhythm. Skyscraper. This summer, the first business To tune into Zagreb’s, find its tower in Croatia is celebrating 60 years as a landmark sundial at Tkalčiće- symbol of modern Zagreb. Skyscraper has a va street 25. Still on time, different look today than it did in 1959 – dark this beauty was constructed glass replaced its aluminum facade ten years in 1955, where the southern- ago. For decades the first city spot for outings most mill once stood. Both and meetings actually had two addresses – on the stream and the mills are Ban Jelačić Square and officially at 1a. On gone, but the sundial, plas- 16th floor is an observation deck, open every tered with cottage cheese day from 10am to 10pm, it offers an and lime onto the facade, unforgettable 360 view of Zagreb. still stands. • 3 years of building • 16 floors • 70 meters WORD • 300 squares per floor • 360 degree viewpoint Sunce Zagreb’s oldest skyscraper stands at (Soon-tze) * the crossing of Masarykova and Gundulićeva streets, across from Kallina sun, Sonne, sol, soleil, sole, House. The 9-floor, 35-meter-high skys- craper was opened in 1933 and named Ilica street Radovan, after the owner 太陽, 해, 太阳 ZAGREB WHAT SUPERHEROES MONOVIEW WHERE Zagreb the WHEN movie star BEST HALF What’s the role of YEAR’S PARTY office? Strossmartre Festival is Zagreb Film Office back with its promise is a bridge between of 100 days of summer. productions and the Expect countless city of Zagreb. concerts (from jazz and We have two major indie to swing), theater THE PROFESSOR tasks; attract as performances and artsy EVERYONE LEARNED FROM many productions workshops. You can Everybody’s favorite professor, who taught generations of kids that goodness to Zagreb, and mingle in the shades always wins, will again be the mascot of when they are here of centenary chestnuts Animafest, Zagreb’s international provide support so any time, but June 30 is animated film festival taking place this Mia Pećina they have minimum special – come for the June. Professor Baltazar, always in a Drašković, head of complications while most beautiful moggy hurry and never without his hat, is the Zagreb Film Office filming in the city. contest in the day and most successful project of the Zagreb What are the most for the Half Year’s party school of animated films. 59 episodes, amazing movie at night. filmed 1967–1978, were watched by locations to see in Zagreb? children in 30 countries, from Australia @ljetonastrosu.com Zagreb has been a movie set for many big to Zimbabwe. The universally beloved professor is more relevant now than ever and smaller films so far, commercials, WATCH THE SKY ON FIRE for his care towards others and the documentary projects and TV projects. Bundek International environment. In Zagreb, a young scientist Our audiovisual history goes back to be- Fireworks Festival is back association and a children’s hospital unit fore WW2 and we used to be very proud for the 19th time (June are named after him. of projects shot in Croatia and Jadran 14–16). Head over to film. In the last 20 years the film industry Bundek lake and park and has slowly came back to Zagreb and many enjoy the blazing show by locations have been used as sets. It is some of the world’s best hard to pick one as the best or most amaz- pyrotechnicians. There’s ing, because each project has a different live music, yummy food script and different location needs. and drinks, but also What’s your favorite movie set in the 10pm fireworks, ANJA MUTIĆ Zagreb? especially for the little writes for BBC Travel, the Washington It is impossible to pick just one. I truly ones. Catch the detailed Post and the New York Times. believe that each corner of our city program on FB Follow her at @everthenomad can be an excellent shooting location, @mirnovecpiro depending on the vision of the director and producer. But maybe it is possible to FOOD, MUSIC, Comeback city underline our Mirogoj cemetary, one of CAMERA – ACTION! the most beautiful in the world, specific Hit Gradec Plateau every nce upon a time, Zagreb was on many levels and the location interest- day until June 16 and Oone of Europe’s under-the-ra- ing to many productions. enjoy live music paired dar capitals. Overshadowed by For the best cinema/movie screenings with scrumptious food. the celebrated coastline stars, in Zagreb, head to.... The spot is already like Dubrovnik and Split, the city Cinestar cinemas and famous for the stunning was a mere stop on the way to definitely Europa view of the Zagreb some place south. That era seems CATCH cinema, which will be Cathedral and the entire eons ago. Now, Zagreb has turned OPEN-AIR even better after its ren- city, but during the its fortunes around and become a ovation. During summer festival, the pop-up frame comeback city. Instead of a brief SCREENINGS months, don't miss the promises the best Zagreb stopover, it’s become a perfect ALL OVER THE open-air screenings all postcard ever. Check the bookend. over the city. full program on FB ummer is coming – and crowds CITY Tell us your secret @basnasfestival. Sare storming Croatia. And this hideaways in Zagreb? is the way to “do” Zagreb. Fly Oh...but then it in. Spend two or three days dis- wouldn't be a secret covering its charms. See the top anymore. :) sights, sample the staples, cross all from the bucket list – and then return for another stint on your ZAGREB 2.0 way back from the coast. If you’re reading this, chances are your The flip side of the city READY FOR plans are already set. Chances PROPER CHILLING? also are – you’ll see the list of rea- irst Croatian woman journalist, Marija Lovers of fantasy and sons you need to come back. Read FJurić Zagorka, has a monument in SF movies get to chill on for just some of them – and Zagreb. The other brave Croatian women in more than one way. then book your comeback trip. have almost been forgotten. But no more! The renowned Fantastic Award-winning tourist guide Iva Silla has Tip: Zagreb’s attractions range launched a brand-new tour where she tells (from June 27) delivers from mainstream (think world- gripping stories about unique, inspiring a super-cool program of class museums) to downright women who lived and films. Plus they are all quirky. The latest on the quirky worked in Zagreb. Join screened in the coolest front: Europe’s first “scratching her Badass Women in open-air cinema, smack salon” (Češkaonica) just opened Zagreb walking tour inside the mystical in Zagreb’s Dubrava, a massage on Thursdays and Tuškanac forest. Bring a parlor where you can unwind as Saturdays at 10am. cushion and a blanket! you get scratched with feathers, Booking essential @fantastic-zagreb.com brushes, nails or sticks. @secret-zagreb.com NEW ON THE STREET ART SCENE he street art scene of Zagreb has been booming – and the boom shows Tno signs of abating. Street art is short-lived and ethereal though, so make sure you take loads of photos. And don’t get attached – one day it’s there, the next day it’s gone. So it happened with the giant whale and the turtle, both by French street artist Etien on the Gradec plateau in the Up- per Town. But fear not, as new street art keeps popping up. QUIZG Art Park on Martinovka Lonac at Museum of The beloved Art Park on Tomiće- Contemporary Art Questions va street just unveiled their latest Don’t miss the Hat Wearers mural by 1 The Grič cannon has been project, this one in a small park on Lonac at the MSU, Museum of Con- announcing noon every day Plitvička street (right across from temporary Art. Lonac is a star on Za- since 1877. How many cannons #3). Boris Bare, Zagreb’s famous greb’s street art scene, with an inter- have been fired street artist and the creative force national following and massive murals from Lotrščak? behind Art Park cheered up a gray he’s painted around the globe. This a 5 facade with a gorgeous mural one, on the interior walls of MSU, done b 6 called Baba Luna, featuring an old with spray paint, brushes and acrylic, c 7 lady looking at a giant moon. The portrays striking characters Lonac has Martinovka neighborhood also met on his worldwide travels. 2 June marks the start of joined in the creative fun for a day swimming season at Zagreb’s in May, to paint the benches “With just a little art refresh lakes. What’s the average and the children’s play- of a public space, you can amp summer water temperature? ground. This is the first up the quality of life in the a 23 of a series of Art Park b 24 projects slated to enrich neighborhood, put a smile on c 25 Zagreb during the 2019 people’s faces and bring the season. neighbors closer together,” 3 Which meridian passes says Boris Bare. through Zagreb? Šenoa House Mural a 12. The Šenoa House in the Zvijez- b 14. da neighborhood is the place to c 16. get to know the story of Croa- tia’s renowned novelist August Answers Šenoa. Before you wander in to 1 a The cannon today is the 5th - see the house, which spans the you can see its predecessors in the lives of four generations, check . out the new mural on the outside 2 b 24 degrees Celsius is the wall of the stone gate. Work of average summer temperature at young painter Dominik Vuković, it Jarun. depicts Šenoa on a walk through 3 c The meridian passes through 19th-century Zagreb. He is crossing Zagreb – you can see its monument a stream, and you can also see the at the corner of Vukovarska and city’s many landmarks as well as Držićeva street. historical and literary characters. COOL

TURE ANDREA PISAC Global anthropologist and Zagreb ZAGREB’S MUSEUM writer with a twist. Follow her at OF CONTEMPORARY @travelhonestly.com ART is hosting the region’s best bands Honestly, know on its rooftop this summer. In June thy cool and July, catch performances by Kries, nce the summer officially starts, Laibach, Borghesia, Oeveryone gets out their advice Letu Štuke, The on what to eat and drink to keep Strange and Tram 11 – cool. So, to repeat the spiel: drink six Saturdays straight. cold gemišt and eat lots of cucumber. There are also exhibits, This, however, is just the tip of the performances and iceberg. Because the ways to chill artistic happenings. in Zagreb are endless and pretty More @msu.hr creative. ou are not only countering the DON’T MISS THE LET Yheat of the summer. The elevat- THEM EAT CAKE? ed temperature creates an internal exhibition at the Art fire which turns into various emo- Pavilion. See works tions. On one hand, we feel exuber- by Croatian artists ant, brave, pumped-up. But on the from the last 150 years other, it’s easy to fly off the handle all with the theme – or slowly grumble throughout the food. Edible exhibits day. Notice what the locals are doing. included. Exhibition First, they’ll spend the hottest part open until July 7. @ of the day indoors. Many will hit umjetnicki-paviljon.hr the snooze button. When they do go out and get together, it will be in the TANZEN KOLLEKTIV evening. Yes, time for moon bathing. is attending the Plus, they’ll dial down on their usual 20th birthday of routine of gossiping and complain- Zagreb’s most ing – because this aggravates the famous club program inner heat. – Kontrapunkt. The he next day, they’ll do their party’s at Aquarius Tmarket shopping while the sun club, June 7. is still gentle. Some will nurture that Attendance limited, summer heartiness and climb to fun unlimited. Sljeme. Did you know that our heart #kontrapunkt beats an extra 10 beats per minute in the summer? Use this to the max. Join the exciting summer activities, do something you were always afraid to do, then have a cold beer and let all those annoying things fly by.

Tip: Hit Jarun lake in the evening, choose a seat at one of the bar terraces, and enjoy moon bathing.

Culture Factory is Follow the to hosting the BLACK REBEL the stork village MOTORCYCLE N CLUB on June 13. The Less than an hour’s American trio has had drive south from Za- a special connection greb, the Sava River with Zagreb since creates one of Eu- 90 min 2004 and two concerts rope’s most precious from Zagreb the same night. BRMC marshlands – Lonjsko is on a world tour with Polje. The area is a their new album. freshwater fish and birds’ sanctuary. @tvornicakulture.com Visit Čigoč, the first European stork village, where each house boasts no less than three and up to nine stork nests on the roof. Pencil in June 30 when the village celebrates its day and the entry to the visitors’ center MORE INFO is free.

Tip: Admire the local wooden architecture; houses are built with oak and some are more than 200 years old. Explore Zagreb’s heart line Even though you probably won’t walk it, this is one of the most important arteries – a central line to the heart of the city. From the bird’s eye perspective, it connects the historic Jelačić square with the modern . It was along this route that Zagreb began its sprawl southward, eventually becoming a European metropolis. Jump on the bus and drive along it to appreciate the city’s recent history.

Statue of Dr. Franjo Tuđman N Work of sculptor Kuzma Kovačić, this statue portrays Croatia’s first president. It is the newest sculpture in Zagreb, erected Ban Jelačić square on Dec 10 2018 to mark the 19th anniversary of Tuđman’s death.

Vukovarska

Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall National and University Since its opening in 1973, this has been Library in Zagreb The the prime venue of the city’s cultural largest library in Croatia, it life. Music of all genres and musicians is not only the biggest but of the highest standing performed also the wealthiest here, including Luciano Pavarotti, Ella repository of books, from Fitzgerald and Nick Cave. the rare incunabula in Glagolitic to top Fountains specialized There are five of them, editions. The they get water supply from entire collection the nearby underground moved from its stream, and they put up a old home to this great lighting show. modern building in 1995. The glass design captures fab views of Statue of Zagreb from all Većeslav Holjevac six levels. Among the most popular mayors of Zagreb, Holjevac used his term (1952–62) to build public and residential buildings Močvara Club south of the Sava This indie cultural club River. This earned uses the former Liberty Bridge him the title of the Jedinstvo factory as its The third oldest bridge city’s great home. The venue hosts over the Sava, Most innovator. concerts and art festivals Slobode was opened within its unique in 1959 and is still industrial architecture. among the busiest connections between Sava River the center and Novi Half a century ago, (New) Zagreb. the Sava was the southern edge of Zagreb. When the city spread across, the river initially retaliated with a disastrous flood in Sava 1964. Since then, the Sava mound serves as a buffer as well as the locals’ favorite spot for recreation. Runners, cyclists, casual walkers… all are welcome.

Museum of Contemporary Art This meander-shaped Bundek Park building is home to This sprawling park boasts two lakes, outstanding contemporary miles of walking and cycling trails artwork by top Croatian and and the biggest children’s international artists. The playground. In warm weather, this is museum boasts 3500 m2 of the locals’ most beloved open-air permanent exhibition space hangout. and one of Zagreb’s best roof terraces. On its west-facing Bundek facade, there is a mural painted by Croatia’s renowned street artist OKO.

THE MOST USEFUL CARD With Zagreb Card, tourists get free transport and access to six attractions, plus ticket discounts for more than 80 locations. The daily card is 98KN, a three−day card is 135KN. @zagrebcard.com N MUSIC TAKEOVER ON JARUN LAKE LAST Three days. Three islands. 30,000 people at Jarun every MINUTE night for the 14th INmusic Festival. One of Europe’s best See St. Mark’s Church music festivals, INmusic is hosting an impressive line-up this – again Of course you year again, but the fun won’t stop at amazing music. For landed on St. Mark’s

unforgettable summer nights on the shores of Jarun lake, find Savska Square as soon as you more info @inmusicfestival.com. Day 1 24/06 arrived to Zagreb. And Foals, The Hives, no doubt you have a , Kurt selfie with the roof tiles Vile & The Vilators, of St. Mark’s Church. But , Siddharta, wait, have you peeped Fontaines D.C... Sava inside? You must. This Lake Jarun Day 2 25/06 Romanesque eye candy Suede, Garbage, hides genius artwork by , Ivan Meštrović as well as Santigold, Frank Jozo Kljaković’s arrest- Turner & The Sleeping ing frescoes. Open for Bus transport to the entrance Souls, Zeal & Ardor, visitors: daily 10am–noon Free transport from both Jarun entrances Gato Preto... & 5–6.30pm. Day 3 26/06 Bike to the island , LP, Peter Bike locks secured for bicyclists Bjorn and John, Kandžija i Gole Žene, 4am Cars banned Mangroove, The Ills, No cars from 3pm on festival days + 600 BONUS MIN Run Sofa... FEEL THE CITY’S

DALIBOR URUKALOVIĆ/PIXSELL RHYTHM

Literally meaning “city rhythm,” Ritam Grada couldn’t have chosen a better name. The night club is in the city’s very center. Address: Gajeva 2 right on Ban Jelačić Square. It’s open non- stop, from 7am to 6am the next day. This great location offers unique fun all day, every day – so stop by. @ritamgrada.hr

Less than five minutes, or more precisely 4 minutes & 45 seconds, is the average motorcy- cle ambulance response time. 2.5 minutes faster than the standard ambulance response time, which includes Spotted: Samuel L. Jackson weaving through city traffic. Because of hile The Avengers filled seats in movie theaters worldwide, their boss this Zagreb is get- Wstrolled through – Zagreb. Samuel L. Jackson was in Zagreb for a few ting more motor- weeks filming The Hitman’s Bodyguard 2 with Salma Hayek and Ryan Reynolds. cycles to answer Zagreb locals didn’t miss the opportunity to ask what they called a hamburger in emergency calls Paris, and Jackson filled his due too – of Zagreb Instagram posts on his own, and first. on hundreds of fans’ profiles. Three medical TASTE OF ZAGREB used to make sically the central moto-teams are on juice, syrup or ingredient of light call on Đorđićeva street in the center, powered by tea. Making summer cocktails Taste of Croatia syrup is simple like the Hugo. Maksimirska street in and can be done Croatian producer the east and Jarun at home. In the old Agropošta has a great in the west. June’s days when store-bought syrup selection made fragrant juices were scarce, elder- of select fruits and wild Published by: flower juice was the go-to plants. You’ll find them 30 stupnjeva flowers family refreshment. in many of Zagreb’s (and Editors: Today, natural syrups are also Europe’s) cafes and Anja Mutić, weet-scented el- trendy again. More and restaurants. Grab lunch Andrea Pisac Sderflowers are the more family farms are at Beštija restaurant in Contact: fragrance of June. Elder- producing homemade the city center and taste [email protected] flower harvesting makes juices and filling our an elderflower juice In partnership with for the perfect late spring glasses with sweetness yourself. Juice price: Zagreb Tourist Board outing, and the big white and nostalgia. Elder- 20KN Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. aromatic flowers can be flower juice is also ba- Kcal per serving: 50 kcal www.zagreb4you.com