A rock climbingguidebookto thebestclimbs overhanging Sanctuary Wall,overhanging Sanctuary Torquay, Devon.Climbers:MartiHallettandHelen Dudley. mechanical, photocopying written orotherwisewithout prior ofthe permission Text, layout, topos computer andeditingby Glaister, artwork, Mark copyright owner. A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish Cover photo:RichandSamMayfieldonSolidAir (VS4b)-page126atGullRock, All rights reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart bereproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted inany form orby any means, electronic, This page:ThesteepandexposedIncubus (E15b)-page367onthegrossly Country in the West ofEngland Country Original ROCKFAXOriginal designMick Ryan and Alan James Climbs Printed by John Browns Printers, Nottingham Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk) Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. July 2010 All uncredited photos by Glaister Mark one oftheCulmCoast'smanyisolatedsea-cliffs. West Stephen Horne and Stephen Horne Alan James Mark Glaister ISBN 9781873341377 All mapsby ROCKFAX © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2010 www.rockfax.com

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset

West Penwith . Tintagel Coast . The Atlantic Inland Cornwall Blackchurch The CulmCoast . Lundy . DevonNorth . Portishead Avon andSomerset . Tides Grades . Gear . Access . West Climbing . Country Camping . West Logistics Country Acknowledgements Guidebooks Introduction

Sennen . Kenidjack Bosigran . Zennor Cliff Carn Gowla Pentire Head Doyden Point Roche Rock . The Devil's Jump . Cheesewring Quarry Compass Point . . Lower Sharpnose Vicarage Cliff andOldwalls' Point Gull Rock andCornakey Cliff . Screda Point andSpeke's MillMouth Smoothlands andDyer's Lookout Baggy Point Cheddar Gorge Brean Down . Uphill Quarry Split Rock . Quarry Avon Gorge Graded Listand Top 50. Crag Table2 . Crag Table1 . Fixed Gear. Pubs and Cafes Walls and Shops Advertiser Directory . Gurnard's Head Gurnard's Cribba Head, St.Cribba Loy and Tater Du Porthgwarra and St. Levan Area Chair Ladder Fox Promontory Carn Barra . . Carn LesBoeland Zawn Kellys . Pordenack Point . Land's End. Great Zawn andBosigran Ridge. Carn GlooseandRobin's Rocks ...... 272 266 256 246 242 238 232 224 220 252 186 164 150 172 170 166 159 158 152 144 136 124 120 130 188 194 190 212 198 108 102 176 114 110 92 46 90 78 72 70 44 38 36 34 32 30 28 26 24 24 84 20 14 76 16 18 10 6 8 4 Haytor Chudleigh . Inland Devon . andDartmoor The Lizard Swanage Cornwall. Photo: DavePickford Through Photo: SteveCrowenearing thefinishofBreakon General Index and Area Map Route Index Portland Dorset . Daddyhole Torbay . Bench Tor Hound Tor Torbryan . Quarry Lizard Point Trewavas Head Anstey's Cove Point andLongQuarry . Head. Berry The Dewerstone . Sheeps Tor . (E4 5c)-page142 -LowerSharpnose, ......

Contents . 320 300 298 282 286 280 354 424 390 370 360 344 342 330 326 324 418 314 310 374 3

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 4 Introduction

Avon Somerset West Country Climbs is a selective guide to the finest rock climbing in Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Avon in western England. The area has hundreds of fantastic routes of all grades and styles, on a variety of rock types, and these are presented here in one concise guidebook.

For many climbers, the golden granite sea cliffs of Cornwall will be considered the jewel in the

North Devon North West Country’s crown, however there are many more outstanding climbing destinations on offer. The broad choice ranges from the dark lava and culm of the north coast of Devon and Cornwall, to the granite of Bodmin and Dartmoor and to the lighter limestone of Torbay, the Avon Gorge, Somerset and Dorset. Whatever grade of climb, and whatever preferred style of climbing is sought, the West Country caters for all options - long, adventurous climbs on remote sea cliffs, modern sport climbs above the beach, short bouldery routes on granite tors, and Culm Coast everything in between.

Mid-grade traditional classics on perfect granite? - West Penwith. Huge, committing sea cliff adventures? - The Atlantic and Culm coast.

Inland CornwallInland Sunny, limestone sport routes? - Portland, Brean Down and Torquay. Exhilarating sea-cliff trad climbs with a holiday ambience? - Berry Head and Swanage. Technical sport and trad routes on moorland granite? - Dartmoor and Inland Cornwall. Rural, or ultra-urban climbing? - The Dewerstone and Chudleigh or the Avon Gorge.

Atlantic Coast West Country Climbs brings all of these cliffs and their climbs alive with clear approach information, huge photo-topos, detailed route descriptions and inspiring action photography.

But it's not all about the climbing. The West West Penwith Country is one of Europe’s most enchanting corners. Its rugged coastline, wind-swept moors, traditional rural pubs, gorgeous beaches and picturesque villages make any visit an unforgettable experience, but when

The Lizard combined with the excellence of the climbs on offer and a bit of decent weather it is without a doubt one of the finest places to climb anywhere. Inland DevonInland Torbay Dorset Introduction 5 Avon Somerset Avon North Devon Culm Coast Culm Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Atlantic West Penwith West The Lizard The Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Alex Mason on the Great Zawn gem Green Cormorant Face (E2 5c) - page 216 - at Bosigran, West Penwith. Photo: Duncan Skelton/Offwidth Images 6 Introduction

Avon Somerset This Guidebook This 2010 first edition of West Country Climbs is a selective guidebook that details the prime rock climbs of the major cliffs in the West Country. In general, only the best routes on the best cliffs are described, although on some buttresses (mainly the sport crags) all the lines are described to avoid confusion where many lines exist on uniform looking faces. In total there are 884 routes described in detail which will be more than enough to keep the majority of climbers happy for a lifetime's worth of visits. North Devon North Route Lines - The photo-topos in this book are large and detailed. These qualities enable the route lines to be seen very clearly, showing intricate detail of where the routes go. Great care has been taken when adding the route lines but it is inevitable that some may not be exactly right, especially on the more obscure routes and on routes where there is no precise line. If unsure then use personal judgement to pick out a line, and let us know of any discrepancies by commenting on the Rockfax Route Database (www.rockfax.com). Culm Coast Other Guidebooks There are thousands of routes in the West Country which are not covered in this book. The Rockfax guidebook to Dorset covers all the

Inland CornwallInland routes in the last section of this book. For bouldering information have a look at Dave Henderson's excellent website - www.javu.co.uk. For other areas consult the books from the following: The Climbers' Club - www.climbers-club.co.uk Cordee - www.cordee.co.uk Cheddar Gorge and Caves - www.thegorgeoutdoors.co.uk Atlantic Coast The information that is included in this guidebook has been gathered together over my climbing life, distilled and built upon to produce the guidebook that you now have in your hands. My guidebook shelf charts my association with climbing in the West Country - having been born in Devon my first steps were guided by the contents of Tony

West Penwith Moulam and Pat Littlejohn's West Col guides to Dartmoor and South Devon, whilst forays further afield were initially inspired by Richard Crewe's early Dorset guidebook and the Climbers' Club North and South guides to West Penwith. I can also vividly remember my first sighting of Pat Littlejohn's - hot off the press - first edition of South West Climbs in the back of a Morris Marina in Exeter and immediately being driven away by the books owner to sample one of its revelations on Devon's North Coast. In more recent times Nick White's South

The Lizard Devon tome, Rowland Edwards' and Tim Dennell's Cornish Rock, Sean Hawken's South East Cornwall Guide, the Climbers' Club series of guides to Lundy, Cornwall, North Devon and Avon and Cheddar plus Pete Oxley's early Portland guides have all inspired and guided me around the many superb cliffs and crags of the West Country. Other information has come from magazines, many conversations with other climbers and there has been a huge amount of feedback submitted to the Rockfax Route Database (www.rockfax.com) and the UKClimbing.com Logbook system (www.ukclimbing.com). Inland DevonInland

I would like to acknowledge the effort put in by all those who have worked on documenting the climbing in the West Country over the years. The West Country is a huge area with complex access where quick and easy research is hampered by the difficulties of viewing many of the routes properly, except from the sea. It is an impossible task to document everything with 100% accuracy, but hopefully this guidebook can at least record routes in a way that inspires those who want to explore some of the lesser known

Torbay parts of the West Country, and provide good information for those who want to climb the classics.

Mark Glaister, June 2010

Guidebook Footnote The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descrip- Dorset tions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the descrip- tion. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. Introduction 7 Avon Somerset Avon North Devon Culm Coast Culm Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Atlantic West Penwith West The Lizard The Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Max Bonniot on Pyjamarama (E4 6b) - page 236 - at Longships Wall, Land's End. Photo: Rob Gibson 8 Acknowledgments Photo: Bridget Collier Avon Somerset Having climbed in the West Country since I was a young teenager it is impossible to thank all those who I have climbed with on the routes included in this guidebook - so it will have to suffice to say that without your company the experiences would

North Devon North have been far less memorable and fun.

Many people have helped me compile this book, their help ranging from posing for pictures and checking lines, to proof reading and providing route descriptions – Gordon Jenkin, Ray Mardon, Culm Coast John Warner, Carrie Hill, Marti Hallett, Anna Rayner, Paul Cox, Bev Connor, Rob Knight, Lee Proctor, Jonny Aylwin, Tom Skelhon, Dave Henderson, Brian Wilkinson, Bruce Woodley,

Inland CornwallInland Rich White, Rob Kennard, Mark Tomlinson, Rich Mayfield, Sam Mayfield, Ken Palmer, Pete Saunders, Barney Carver, Dave Pickford, Chris Savage, Dave Turnbull, Emma Medara, Stu Bradbury, Dave Johnson, Rob Byrom, Caz

Atlantic Coast Neely. Iain Peters, Pat Littlejohn, Frank Cannings, Nick Hancock, Darren Russell, Toby Keep, Neil Foster, Duncan Critchley, Alison Martindale, Bridget Collier, Phil Black, Paul Carling, Wilf and Jane Williamson, Bill Birkett, Mikey Robertson, Steve Thorpe, Trev Ford, James Forbes, Martin West Penwith Cathrow, Shane Ohly, Chad Harrison, Dave Hope, Rob Greenwood, Adrian Berry, Ben Hall, Chris Sims, Gavin Symonds, Danie Rushmer, Rich Kirby, Sue Hazel, Helen Dudley, Jack Geldard, Guy Blackwood, Martin Perry, Andy Long, Al Ashmore, Neal and Helen Heanes, Mick Ward, Steve Watt, Steve Taylor - without all of your help the book would never have seen the light of day. The Lizard A special thanks to the fishermen, and women, especially Richard Cook and David Bliss, who I managed to cajole in to taking me around some of the wilder sections of the West Country’s coastline.

Inland DevonInland A huge amount of appreciation to those who supplied the stunning action photographs - Bev Connor, Dave Pickford, Carrie Hill, Grant Farquhar, Dave Johnson, Pete Saunders, Nick Hancock, Adrian Berry, Ian Parnell, Tobi Carver, Chris Sims, Virgil Scott, Sam Mayfield, Bridget Collier, Ian Wilson, Alex Ekins, Sean Kelly, Martin Perry, Nick Arding, Mike Robertson, Sue Hazel, Mark Davies, Rob Gibson, Duncan Skelton.

Torbay Much of my climbing life, especially in the early days, has been inspired and influenced to a large degree by the various rock climbing guidebooks to the West Country and to all those authors I owe a huge amount of gratitude.

It's been a long haul this one, and I owe a massive thanks to the team at UKC/Rockfax - Alan, Dorset Stephen, Chris, Sherri, Mick and Jack for all their hard work and encouragement along the way.

Mark Glaister, June 2010 Acknowledgments 9 Avon Somerset Avon North Devon Culm Coast Culm Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Atlantic West Penwith West The Lizard The Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Barry Durston nearing the end of the crux-pitch of the super steep Guernica (E6 6a) - page 178 - at Carn Gowla. Photo: Ian Parnell 10 Advertisers

Avon Somerset Equipment Manufacturers Shops

Black Diamond - Outside back cover Taunton Leisure - Front cover Tel: 01629 580484 East Reach, Taunton. Tel: 01823 275121 www.blackdiamondequipment.com www.tauntonleisure.com North Devon North Entre Prises - Page 27 Rock On - Page 15 Kelbrook, Lancashire. Tel: 01282 444800 Mile End, London. Tel: 0208 981 5066 www.ep-uk.com Craggy Island, Guildford. Tel: 01483 565635 Redpoint, Birmingham. Tel: 01213 598709

Culm Coast Climbing Walls www.rockonclimbing.co.uk

Awesome Walls - Page 2 Holidays / Guidance / Accommodation St. Alban’s Church, Liverpool. Tel: 01512 982422 Rock and Sun - Back cover flap Inland CornwallInland The Engine House, Stockport. Mina Road, Bristol. Tel: 08456 864586 Tel: 0161 494 9949 www.rockandsun.com Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Tel: 01782 341919 Dartmoor Adventures - Page 31 www.awesomewalls.co.uk Dartmoor, Devon. Tel: 01752 690292 Atlantic Coast www.dartmooradventures.co.uk Barn Climbing Centre - Inside back cover Milton Abbot, Tavistock. Tel: 01822 870521 Southwest Adventures - Page 21 www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk Bampton, Devon. Tel: 07870 451827 www.southwestadventures.co.uk West Penwith Boulders - Page 33 Pengam Road, Cardiff. Tel: 0845 52 118 50 3 Great Parks - Page 29 www.bouldersclimbingcentre.co.uk Sea Barn Campsite. Tel: 01305 782218 www.seabarnfarm.co.uk Dartrock - Page 19 West Fleet Holiday Farm. Tel: 01305 782218 Old Totnes Road, Buckfastleigh. www.westfleetholidays.co.uk The Lizard Tel: 01364 644 499 Bagwell Farm Touring Park. www.dartrock.co.uk Tel: 01305 782575 www.bagwellfarm.co.uk The Climbing Academy - Page 25

Inland DevonInland Charlton Street, Bristol. Tel: 0117 907 2956 Wall-Crawler - Page 21 www.theclimbingacademy.com Welcombe, near Bude. Tel: 01288 331145 www.wall-crawler.co.uk Undercover Rock - Page 17 Mina Road, Bristol. Tel: 01179 413489 The Orange House - Page 31 www.undercover-rock.com Finestrat, Alicante, Spain. Tel: 01752 690292

Torbay www.theorangehouse.co.uk Dorset Levan's Wall, West Penwith. Photo:PaulCox Midnight Express (E15b)-page271 -atSt.

Advertisers 11

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 12 Avon Somerset

North Devon North West Country

Culm Coast Logistics Inland CornwallInland Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland DevonInland Torbay Dorset 13 Avon Somerset Avon North Devon Culm Coast Culm Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Atlantic West Penwith West The Lizard The Inland Devon Torbay

An incoming tide hastens the retreat from the top of the Middle Dorset Fin at Lower Sharpnose on the Atlantic Coast in the late afternoon. Time to retreat to the pub. 14 West Country Logistics

Avon Somerset In Emergency Dial 999 and ask for 'COASTGUARD' They have knowledge of the climbing areas and routes and can co-ordinate any rescue efforts.

North Devon North Mobile Phones Mobile phone coverage at many of the sea-cliffs in this guidebook is not good. There is often no signal at all at the base of many of the sea-cliffs and even at the top of the cliffs a strong signal can not be relied upon. This is especially the case on Lundy and the north coasts of Devon and Cornwall. Be prepared to seek out higher ground in an emergency. For those climbing on Portland it is worth checking where the signal is being picked up from as it is not uncommon that a French operators signal will be picked up if the phone is set to roaming mode. Mobile coverage is reasonable for all of the inland cliffs. Culm Coast

Tourist Information For help and information on all aspects of a visit to the West Country the tourist information centres and websites listed below are a good starting point. The major TICs, closest to the climbing, are listed. Inland CornwallInland Bristol - Anchor Road, Harbourside, Bristol, BS1 5DB Tel: 0906 711 2191 Bideford - The Quay, Bideford, Devon, EX39 Tel: 01237 477676 Bude - The Crescent, Bude, Cornwall, EX23 8LE Tel: 01288 354240 Camelford - The Clease, Camelford, Cornwall, PL32 9PL Tel: 01840 212954 St. Ives - Street-an-Pol, St Ives, Cornwall, TR26 Tel: 01736 796297

Atlantic Coast Penzance - Station Road, Penzance, Cornwall, TR18 2NF Tel: 01736 362207 Bodmin - Mount Folly Square, Bodmin, Cornwall, PL31 2DQ Tel: 01208 76616 Torquay - Vaughan Parade, Torquay Devon, TQ2 5JG Tel: 01803 211211 Swanage - Shore Road, Swanage, Dorset, BH19 1LB Tel: 01929 422885

www.visitbristol.co.uk West Penwith www.visitsomerset.co.uk www.visitdevon.co.uk www.visitcornwall.com www.visit-dorset.com The Lizard Inland DevonInland Torbay Dorset

Port Issac near Doyden Point and Pentire Head

16 West Country Logistics Camping

Avon Somerset Camping Camping in pleasant surroundings near to many of the cliffs is one of the West Country’s great appeals. There are many camping options and the limited number of sites listed below is only a pointer to what is available. The West Country being the UK’s premier summer holiday destination is extremely busy at peak times and the larger campsites are expensive and also get fully booked well in advance. However, a drive out into the sticks, up onto the moors or along the remoter sections of coastal roads usually turns North Devon North up a basic farm camping field or less well known site that are often cheaper and less busy. It is also worth remembering that many family campsites do not allow large and/or single sex groups.

Somerset and Avon Cheddar Camp - Shipham, Nr. Cheddar. Tel: 01934 743 166 www.cheddarcamp.com

Culm Coast North Devon and Lundy Lundy Shore Office - Bideford, Devon. Tel: 01237 477779 www.lundyisland.co.uk Stoke Barton Farm - Stoke, Hartland, Devon. Tel: 01237 441238 www.westcountry-camping.co.uk

North Cornwall and Bodmin Moor Inland CornwallInland South Penquite Farm - Blisland, Bodmin, Cornwall. Tel: 01208 850491 www.southpenquite.co.uk

West and South Cornwall Treen Campsite - Treen, Penzance, Cornwall. Tel: 01736 810273 www.treenfarmcampsite.co.uk Henry’s Campsite - The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall. Tel: 01326 290596 www.henryscampsite.co.uk

Atlantic Coast Torbay and Dartmoor Runnage Campsite - Postbridge, Dartmoor. Tel: 01822 880222 www.runnagecampingbarns.co.uk

Portland Sea Barn Farm - Fleet, Weymouth, Dorset. Tel: 01305 782218 www.seabarnfarm.co.uk West Penwith Swanage Acton Field - Langton Matravers, Swanage, Dorset. Tel: 01929 439424 www.actonfieldcampsite.co.uk Tom's Field - Langton Matravers, Swanage, Dorset. Tel: 01929 427110 www.tomsfieldcamping.co.uk

Not Camping

The Lizard Many other options for self-catered accommodation near to the climbing are available. Two increasingly popular options are Camping Barns/Bunkhouses and Backpacker Hostels. The YHA also has flexible and very competitively priced accommodation www.yha.org.uk. B&B’s and holiday cottages are ubiquitous. Inland DevonInland Torbay Dorset

18 West Country Logistics Walls and Shops Avon Somerset Climbing Walls (and Gear Shops) Climbing Gear Shops There are a number of climbing walls scattered There are a number of specialist outdoor shops in sporadically around the West Country. Most of the West Country but many of the cliffs, especially these walls have a reasonable stock of climbing in Cornwall and North Devon, are not close to gear as well. the shops so a bit of a drive will be required if the need for a visit arises. North Devon North Undercover Rock www.undercover-rock.com St.Werburghs's Church, Mina Road Somerset and Avon Bristol. S2 9YT Tel: 0117 941 3489 See advert on page 17 Taunton Leisure www.tauntonleisure.com 38-42 Bedminster Parade, Bristol. BS3 4HS. Tel: 0117 9637640 The Climbing Academy Taunton Leisure www.tauntonleisure.com Culm Coast www.theclimbingacademy.com 40 East Reach, Taunton. TA1 3ES. Tel: 01823 332987 Charlton Street, Bristol. BS5 0FD Tel: 0117 907 2956 See advert inside front cover See advert on page 25 CaveClimb www.caveclimb.com Dart Rock Climbing Centre www.dartrock.co.uk Cheddar Business Park, Cheddar. Tel: 01934 741623 Inland CornwallInland Dart Mills, Old Totnes Road Buckfastleigh. TQ11 ONF Tel: 01364 644499 Dick's Climbing www.dicksclimbing.co.uk See advert opposite 26 West Street, Bristol. Tel: 0117 9555 243

The Gorge Outdoors www.thegorgeoutdoors.co.uk The Barn Climbing Centre Cheddar Gorge, Somerset. Tel: 01934 742 688 www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk Atlantic Coast Eastacott Barton, Milton Abbot. PL19 0QP Tel: 01822 870521 North Devon See advert inside back cover Rock and Rapid www.rockandrapid.co.uk Hacche Mill, South Moulton. Tel: 01984 623 989 Rock and Rapid Adventure Centre www.rockandrapidadventures.co.uk South Devon

West Penwith Hacche Mill, South Moulton, Devon. Tel: 01984 623989 Taunton Leisure www.tauntonleisure.com 110 Fore Street, Exeter. EX4 3JF. Tel: 01392 410534 See advert inside front cover

Cotswold Outdoors www.cotswoldoutdoor.com Darts Farm, Topsham. Tel: 01392 878313 The Lizard Cotswold Outdoors www.cotswoldoutdoor.com Drakes Circus, Plymouth. Tel: 01752 672024

Moorland Rambler www.moorland-rambler.co.uk 148-149 Fore Street, Exeter. Tel: 01392 321065 Inland DevonInland Trail Venture www.trailventure.co.uk North Street, Ashburton. Tel: 01364 652522

Dorset

Great Western Camping www.greatwesterncamping.co.uk

Torbay High East Street, Dorchester. Tel: 01305 266800 Dorset

Kayaking off Portland.

20 West Country Logistics Pubs and Cafes Photo: Dave Pickford Avon Somerset Pubs Below is a list of some of the West Country’s best pubs that are within a quick stroll or drive of the cliffs. Some have good beer and cider, some have great food, most have both.

North Devon North The Coronation Tap - Handy for the Avon Gorge, just above the suspension bridge. Coxes Mill - Big bar at the entrance to Cheddar Gorge. The Thatch Inn - Lively pub in Croyde close to Baggy Point. Culm Coast The Old Smithy - Nice old pub at Welcombe village, handy for the Culm Coast. The Bush Inn - Good spot at Morwenstow, close to Sharpnose Point. The Port Garvene Inn - A pub in a quiet Inland CornwallInland fishing cove. Good for Doyden Point and Pentire. The Tinner's Arms - An atmospheric pub in Zennor close to Bosigran and Gurnard's Head. The Logan Rock Inn - Good for south coast granite in the village of Treen. The Cadgwith Cove Inn - Lovely pub close to The Lizard and its beaches. The Meavy Inn - On Meavy village green close to the Dewerstone and Sheeps Tor. The Rugglestone - Great Dartmoor pub with a fine beer garden. Atlantic Coast The Berry Head Hotel - Great views across Torbay, close to The Old Redoubt. The Carey Arms - Close to Anstey’s Cove at Babbacombe Beach. The Cove House - Good spot to watch the sun go down after climbing on Portland. The Square and Compass - Popular haunt and convenient for the Swanage cliffs.

West Penwith Cafes It is impossible to provide a guide for all the cafes and tearooms in the West Country since that would be a guidebook as thick as this one in itself. Suffice to say that a decent cafe or tearoom selling diet-busting cream teas or pasties is never more than a brief drive The Lizard Inland DevonInland Torbay Dorset

Sundown over Lyme Bay from Chesil Beach, Dorset.

Climbing West Country Country West 22 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset extreme Steve Monks midwayuptheleaning corneroftheclassic Bosigran Raven Wall (E35c)- page 203.Photo:Dave Pickford 23

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 24 West Country Climbing Access

Avon Somerset Access to the sea-cliffs and the inland crags, quarries and gorges covered in this guidebook is on the whole uncomplicated. There are few problems at most crags and this has been the case for many years. North Devon North The greatest restrictions on access to the cliffs are for the protection of bird nesting sites, these restrictions are seasonal and predominately on the sea-cliffs but also on

Culm Coast some inland cliffs. All the relevant restrictions and their current durations are covered under the introductions to the venues affected. These restrictions may vary from

Inland CornwallInland year to year and new ones may be imposed, so it is important that a check on the BMCs Regional Access Database (RAD) site is made to get the latest up-to-date information available - www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcCrag. It is also good practice to keep an eye out for

Atlantic Coast any signs and notices at the cliffs that may give new or updated information on the extent or duration of restrictions.

Access restrictions for environmental concerns are only in effect on a small number of cliffs, however many of the cliffs are in protected areas such as SSSIs and great care to minimise the impact of climbing must be made. Again reference to the BMCs RAD can be made to gain information on any current access West Penwith restrictions.

A number of the cliffs are privately owned and great care must be taken not to damage relationships with landowners - one major climbing site which needs considerable care when planning a climbing visit is Cheddar Gorge (see page 84).

The Lizard In the majority of cases all that is required to ensure continued freedom of access to the cliffs, and to maintain good relations with landowners and stewards is a responsible approach and level of behaviour. This includes sticking to footpaths, not climbing over walls and fences, not lighting fires or leaving litter,

Inland DevonInland parking considerately, keeping noise down, closing gates and not gardening routes excessively.

Freedom of access to climb is easily lost but far harder, if not impossible, to regain. Torbay Should any access problems arise at the climbing sites covered in this guidebook please refer details to the BMC Access Officer, 177-179 Burton Road,West Didsbury, Dorset Manchester, M20 2BB www.thebmc.co.uk

26 West Country Climbing Gear

Avon Somerset Rack The basic UK traditional rack of wires, large nuts, cams, quickdraws, slings and double ropes is the very minimum requirement of equipment needed to climb the traditional routes in the West Country. It is difficult to generalise about how much to carry but on the limestone and culm North Devon North routes wires will normally be required in larger numbers (maybe 3 sets or more) whilst on the granite lines cams and large nuts will be used more often, however there are exceptions so use your own judgement. On the sport routes 14 quickdraws is sufficient for virtually all the

Culm Coast routes included in this book.

Climbing Ropes The normal practice for leading routes is to use double 50m x 9mm ropes. This allows the routes to be climbed Inland CornwallInland with greatly reduced rope-drag than would be possible on a single rope as many climbs do not follow direct lines. For the sport climbs in this guidebook a single 60m rope will suffice, although one route - Infinite Gravity at Swanage - requires a longer one.

Atlantic Coast Rope Buckets - One of the problems when at the sea- cliff bases can be keeping the rope dry and away from rock pools or the sea. A useful tool for routes with a hanging stance at the end of an abseil is a rope bucket. You can feed your twinned 9mm ropes into the bucket before you abseil down and clip the bucket onto the West Penwith belay. If you have done it correctly then the ropes will feed easily out of the bucket as the leader climbs.

Abseiling in to Compass Point on the Culm Coast. Abseil Ropes An abseil rope is essential to reach the base of many of the sea-cliffs and it is hardly ever possible

The Lizard to abseil on your climbing ropes due to the belays being set well back from the edge. A single rope of 50m is the minimum requirement but preferably 60m if you have one. Often when you arrive at the crag you may well find an ab rope in place. In such circumstances it is accepted practice to use ropes that are in place rather than clutter up belays with an extra rope.

Inland DevonInland Helmets and Loose Rock Many routes have loose rock on them, especially on their final sections. Always wear a helmet since rock can be dislodged at any time, and always put an extra runner in before the last moves, no matter how easy it looks. Test every hold and be especially careful early in the season, or on days after heavy rain. When belaying keep out of the fall zone especially when the leader is finishing a pitch. Torbay Other Gear Prusik Loops - A prusik loop is useful for protecting you when you abseil and having 2 is invalu- able if you fall off when seconding or leading a steep route, although make sure you know how to use them if you suspect you might struggle - learning 'on the job' is not much fun! Prusik loops (or

Dorset rope ascenders) should always be carried or left on the base of the abseil rope in case of emer- gency or failure on a route and an escape up the rope needs to be undertaken. Abseil Rope Protectors - These are useful for the cliff-top edges particularly if the rope runs over an abrasive edge or will be used for a lot of abseil traffic.

28 West Country Climbing Fixed Gear Avon Somerset Fixed Gear A rotting old abseil station on the Culm Coast. Pegs - Over the years many of the routes throughout the West Country have been climbed using pegs for protection. On the sea-cliffs, due to accelerated corro-

North Devon North sion in the salty environment, most of these pegs should now be regarded as untrustworthy, this includes stainless steel pegs. Current thinking is for the use and replacement of pegs on the sea-cliffs in the West Country to be phased out. Culm Coast The highest profile route to see the effect of this thinking in this guidebook is the famous route Eroica at the incomparable Pentire Head. For many years Eroica Inland CornwallInland was graded E2 with a point of aid from a blade peg. The peg corroded quickly (it was replaced at least once) and, although various solutions as to its possible long- term replacement were aired, its latest

Atlantic Coast demise bought about a consensus that it should not be replaced. The route has now been climbed on a number of occa- sions without the peg and re-graded at E4. Therefore, even though many sea-cliff

West Penwith routes in this guidebook have pegs mentioned in their descriptions, a good deal of caution should be exercised when climbing these routes as some of the pegs mentioned in descrip- tions may have corroded away altogether or be in a very poor state - they will probably not be replaced. On the inland crags, pegs have also been used in abundance for protection, however they are less prone to corrosion and are often replaced. Nevertheless the same level of caution should The Lizard be applied to the reliability of the pegs as even away from the sea-cliff environment corrosion is still fairly rapid. At Chudleigh great care should be taken to back-up the 'ring' style pegs. Threads - Fixed threads in the West Country are not common. Threads tend to be more accepted than pegs since they make use of natural features without damaging the rock, and they are more easily replaced. Care must still be taken to assess the state of the thread - pull Inland DevonInland it around so that you can examine all of it and leave a different section in the rock. If you decide to replace a thread, remove all the old ones since one brand new thread is a lot better than a few dodgy old ones. Bolts and Staple Bolts - Bolts are used extensively for protection on both sport and tradi- tional climbs in the West Country. On the sea-cliff sport climbs (covered in this guide) of Swanage, Portland, Anstey's Cove and Brean Down, marine-grade staples and bolts are used Torbay almost exclusively. On the inland crags and quarries, stainless steel bolts and staples are also widely used, however non-stainless steel bolts will also be encountered. As with pegs and threads always check the placement and state of the bolt before trusting your life to it. Abseil points - On a number of cliffs it is necessary to descend by abseil after completing a climb. If there is an abseil point in place - ALWAYS CHECK ITS RELIABILITY! Some abseil Dorset points were originally set up using pegs and many of these are now in a dangerous state. If in any doubt always back-up the abseil point. Chesil Beach looking towards Portland. Photo: Chris Craggs 30 West Country Climbing Grades

Avon Somerset The traditional routes in this book are graded using the British Traditional Grading system. The sport routes are graded using the French Sport Grading system.

British Trad Grade North Devon North 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1 and upwards) How well-protected a route is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of diffi- culty of the whole route. Culm Coast 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c,..... to 7b) The difficulty of the hardest single move.

Sport Grade

Inland CornwallInland The sport routes in this book are graded using the familiar 'sport grade', or 'French grade' as it is often know. The overall difficulty of a route is rated on a scale in this guidebook from 4 to 8c+.

Atlantic Coast More information on grades: www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html

Deep Water Solo Grades Four routes in this book are described as deep water solos. They have been given West Penwith a British technical grade and an S grade within their descriptions. The simple S Grade consists of a 0, 1, 2 or 3. S0 gives relative safety, with S3 offering considerable possi- bility of injury in the event of a fall. The routes in this book that are described as The Lizard deep water solos are all hard and a degree of experience is essential (and the ability to swim!) if you intend to climb them un-roped.

Inland DevonInland Colour Coding The trad routes and sport routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band.

Green Routes - Everything at grade Severe and under, and 4a+ and under for sport routes. Good routes to start out your climbing career on.

Orange Routes - HS to HVS inclusive, and 5 to 6a+ for sport routes. General ticking routes for those

Torbay with more experience, a large range of excellent routes is available across this band.

Red Routes - E1 to E3 inclusive, and 6b to 7a for sport routes. For the experienced and keen climber. Anyone operating at this level can expect to enjoy some of the best climbing in the book.

Black Routes - E4 and above, and 7a+ and above for sport routes. The hard stuff! Have a go at some Dorset major national testpieces, plus you can do all the red, orange and green routes as well. Can't be better than that!

32 West Country Climbing Tides

Avon Somerset Tides are a crucial consideration when climbing on the sea-cliffs of the West Country since the access to, or escape from, many of the cliffs, is affected by the state of the tide. The West Country has huge differ- ences in tidal range that varies from one of the largest in the World on the North Devon and Culm Coast - with tides swings as big as 8 metres - to some very small swings at Swanage. Understanding more about tides can be a great help in making the most out of your visit.

North Devon North About Tides Throughout one lunar month there are two spring or high-range tides, and two neap or low-range tides. Spring tides occur during the full and new moons, when the sun and moon are in line and the combined gravitational pull causes the highest tides, which then ebb to the lowest level. During spring tides the low tides will always fall towards the middle of the day. During the first and third quarters of the moon, when the sun’s and moon’s attractional forces are at right Culm Coast angles, we experience less extreme high and low tides. Neap tides will always be low at either end of the day with the high tide occurring in the middle. By knowing the current phase of the moon you can roughly work out what kinds of tide you are going to get. Local tide tables (displayed in local newspapers, and available from the Climbers' Club web site - www.climbers-club.co.uk) will give you precise times and levels of high and low tide. Inland CornwallInland From high tide to low tide takes approximately 6 hours, which means that there are two high tides and two low tides in every 24 hour period. The average time for the tide to turn around is actually slightly longer than 6 hours. This means that each day the high and low tide times are between 30 and 80 minutes later than the previous day. The most dramatic spring tide swings range from a massive 8m (spring and autumn) to usually at least 6.5m (summer and winter), and neap tide swings range from around 2.5m (spring and autumn) to 4.5m Atlantic Coast (summer and winter). Along the south coast towards Swanage and Portland the tides have a significantly reduced range.

Important Considerations 1) During the middle hours between low and high tide, the sea comes in MUCH faster and areas of flat

West Penwith rock and boulder beach can disappear rapidly so escape routes can be cut off. This means that you may have spent a few hours at the crag and not noticed much tide movement when suddenly there is water lapping around your ankles. This is significantly more pronounced during spring tides. 2) The smaller fall to low neap tides may give much less access than low spring tides to certain cliffs. For example, The Blisterin' Barnacle Slab, the routes at Gurnard's Head, and the ledges at the base of The Amnesty Wall on The Lizard are either inaccessible or only barely uncovered during low neap tides.

The Lizard 3) The lower level of high neap tides may allow access to certain routes which are cut off in high spring tides. 4) Persistent and strong onshore winds can prolong or even slightly raise high tide levels as can a high swell from some distant ocean storm. Inland DevonInland Torbay Dorset

Low tide at Bude's surf beach on the Culm Coast, Cornwall.

44 70 72 76 92 Page 124 130 136 144 152 158 166 170 172 176 110 114 120 Summary A great venue, although some of the routes are now more A great venue, although some of the routes are now more serious than they once were. Cornakey is home to a famous multi-pitch culm classic. and Vicarage Cliff is an excellent fin of culm with easy access lines. Oldwalls' Point is a large a number of good lower-grade it. face of culm with a couple of intimidating cracklines on three gravity-defying finest cliff. A unique set of The Culm’s the fins of rock with a host of mid and hard-grade classics on faces of the fins. Sun and shade available. A popular cliff, close to the busy beach at Bude. The rock needs careful handling, especially near the finishes of the climbs. in dry premier inland crag. Best visited and warm Cornwall’s Both trad and sport as it is high on Bodmin Moor. weather, routes on solid quarried granite. climbing. Both cliffs have Good crags for some lower-grade good rock and are situated in interesting landscapes. The A big, well hidden cliff on the Island of Tintagel. their multi-pitch climbs here are amongst the most serious of required to climb. Permission Country. grades in the West Close to the quaint fishing hamlet of Port Quin and has couple of popular climbs that pack a punch. finest face. All the Country’s is the West Great Wall Pentire’s routes are hard and brilliant. One of the most remote and wild sections of coast in England. Big routes with committing approaches and serious climbing. A spectacular gorge in a noisy urban setting. Numerous lime- setting. Numerous a noisy urban gorge in A spectacular and others some natural in height, of up to 70m stone walls and multi-pitch. of great climbs both single quarried. Lots sun with a face that gets plenty of morning A good quarried mid-grade trad lines. small line-up of venue for Somerset quarries, and a good The best of the The rock is in the mid to high-grades. teams operating protected. climbing hard, but fairly well superb and the with some mid-grade and A popular beachside sport crag Uphill Quarryhard lines that get a lot of sun. has a trio of good fingery face-climbs. venue, close to a great A long-established slab climbing surf-beach. with Plenty of good single and multi-pitch climbs, mid grades. the bulk of the climbing in the draws few climbers to it loose, shady and Blackchurch of an adventure, those in search vegetated face, although for the place might meet the brief. of steep culm on the coast. The two most impressive sweeps Country. hardest in the West The big lines are amongst the Easy access ensures that the routes at Screda Point get plenty of attention. The lines are predominantly in the Mill is not. mid-grades, and are tidal, although nearby Speke’s

X C C 1 wall only 1 wall only Restrictions J J J J Abseil Tides % % % % % % % % % % Sun R R T U R } Y T R U { { E E E E E E 1 min 5 min 2 to 5 min 13 min 0 to 15 min 5 min 5 min 20 min 10 min 15 min 25 min 5 min 25 min 30 to 40 min 35 min 10 min 25 min 15 to 25 min Approach A F S F A A S G G F F F F F A A A A Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restricted an abseil / are tidal / require are some of the routes Shaded means that only - - 7 7 3 3 3 3 3 1 3 1 6 4 2 1 4 1 1 4 1 5 33 33 33 33 11 10 16 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 E4 and up E4 - - - 7 7 7 7 1 2 7 5 6 5 3 6 5 3 8 1 6 3 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 25 333 333 333 333 E1 to E3 to E1 - Not worth a visit 7 - - - 7 7 7 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 1 2 1 2 1 4 7 6 3 3 7 4 33 33 33 33 33 12 23 333 333 - Okay HS to HVS to HS 3 ------7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 - Good 3 1 2 1 4 2 5 9 33 33 33 333 33 up to Sev to up 6 6 3 4 8 8 5 8 - Excellent 11 11 14 18 10 13 21 68 22 25 Routes 333

Crag Table 1 Table Crag

Pentire Head Pentire Gowla Carn Doyden Point Doyden Tintagel Roche Rock and Devil's Jump Compass Point Compass QuarryCheesewring Lower Sharpnose Lower Vicarage and Oldwalls' Vicarage Screda Point Screda Gull Rock and Cornakey Smoothlands to Dyer's Smoothlands to Blackchurch Baggy Point Split Rock Quarry and Uphill Down Brean Portishead QuarryPortishead Avon Gorge Avon Quality and range of routes in different grade bands: grade in different Quality of routes and range

ND Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Avon and Somerset 34 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset

Avon and Somerset and Avon Atlantic Coast Atlantic Coast Culm ND Inland Cornwall Inland Quality andrange of routes Quality in different grade bands: Carn Gowla Pentire Head Doyden Point Tintagel Jump and Devil's Rock Roche Cheesewring Quarry Compass Point Lower Sharpnose Vicarage andOldwalls' andCornakey Rock Gull Screda Point toSmoothlands Dyer's Blackchurch PointBaggy Brean Down andUphill Quarry Split Rock Portishead Quarry Avon Gorge

333 Routes 21 25 22 68 14 10 18 13 11 11 -Excellent 6 4 3 6 8 8 8 5 up to Sev 33 333 33 33 33 2 5 9 1 4 1 2 3 -Good 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 ------3 HS to HVS -Okay 333 333 23 12 33 33 33 33 33 2 1 4 7 3 3 6 7 4 1 2 1 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 7 7 7 - - - 7 - Not worth avisit -Not worth E1 to E3 333 333 333 333 25 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 7 2 1 6 1 8 3 5 6 3 5 6 5 3 7 7 7 7 - - - E4 andup 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 16 10 11 33 33 33 33 6 1 3 1 4 1 1 4 1 2 5 1 4 3 3 3 3 3 7 7 - - Shaded means that only some ofthe routes are tidal / require anabseil / are restricted A F S F A A F F F F F G G S A A A A Approach 15 to25min 25 min 15 min 10 min 20 min 10 min 35 min 30 to40min 25 min 5 min 25 min 5 min 1 min 13 min 2 to5min 5 min 5 min 0 to15min E E E E E E U T R R U R T Y } R { { Sun % % % % % % % % % % Tides Abseil J J J J Restrictions 1 wallonly 1 wallonly C C X

faces ofthefins.Sunandshadeavailable. fins ofrockwithahostmidandhard-gradeclassicsonthe The Culm’s finestcliff.Aunique setofthreegravity-defying face ofculmwithacoupleintimidatingcracklinesonit. a numberofgoodlower-grade lines.Oldwalls'Pointisalarge Vicarage Cliffisanexcellentfinofculmwitheasyaccessand multi-pitch culmclassic. serious thantheyoncewere.Cornakeyishometoafamous A greatvenue,althoughsomeoftheroutesarenowmore mid-grades, andaretidal,althoughnearbySpeke’s Millisnot. plenty ofattention.Thelinesarepredominantlyinthe Easy accessensuresthattheroutesatScredaPointget The biglinesareamongstthehardestinWest Country. The twomostimpressivesweepsofsteepculmonthecoast. the placemightmeetbrief. vegetated face,althoughforthoseinsearch ofanadventure, Blackchurch drawsfewclimberstoitloose,shadyand the bulkofclimbinginmidgrades. Plentyofgoodsingleandmulti-pitchclimbs,with surf-beach. A long-establishedslabclimbingvenue,closetoagreat face-climbs. good fingery hasatrioof hard linesthatgetalotofsun.UphillQuarry A popularbeachsidesportcragwithsomemid-gradeand superb andtheclimbinghard,butfairlywellprotected. teams operatinginthemidtohigh-grades.Therockis The bestoftheSomersetquarries,andagoodvenuefor small line-upofmid-gradetradlines. A goodquarriedfacethatgetsplentyofmorningsunwitha quarried. Lotsofgreatclimbsbothsingleandmulti-pitch. stone wallsofupto70minheight,somenaturalandothers A spectaculargorgeinanoisyurbansetting.Numerouslime- climbing. England. Big routeswithcommitting approachesand serious One ofthemostremote andwildsectionsofcoastin routes arehardandbrilliant. Pentire’s Great Wall istheWest Country’s finestface.Allthe couple ofpopularclimbsthatpackapunch. Close tothequaintfishinghamletofPort Quin andhas grades intheWest Country. Permissionrequiredtoclimb. multi-pitch climbshereareamongstthemost seriousoftheir A big,wellhiddencliffontheIslandofTintagel. The good rockandaresituatedininterestinglandscapes. Good cragsforsomelower-grade climbing.Bothcliffshave routes onsolidquarriedgranite. weather, asitishighonBodminMoor. Bothtradandsport Cornwall’s andwarm premierinlandcrag. Bestvisitedindry climbs. needs carefulhandling,especiallynearthefinishesof A popularcliff,closetothebusybeachatBude.Therock Summary 176 172 170 166 158 152 144 136 130 124 120 114 110 Page 72 70 44 92 76

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 282 300 324 344 354 374 188 198 224 242 266 Page 286 310 314 330 360 390 220 232 256 272 Summary A collection of dark sea-cliffs dotted around the UK climbs are excellent and most southerly point. The mainland’s in a superb location. A very popular limestone cliff, set in the depths of rural The climbs Devon, but not too far from Dartmoor and Torbay. are all trad and up to four pitches long. a bit of A small but excellent limestone sport crag. Takes the finding, but the fine climbs are well worth the battle with Devon rural roads. Dartmoor's largest tor that is rarely quiet. Brilliant rock and is a friendly venue with plenty of short, routes. Hound Tor fun pitches. is a very short, easier popular place, with a lot of Sheeps Tor has a limited number of lines, and lines, whereas Bench Tor is often used by groups. one athletic classic. Sheeps Tor for the lower and finest cliffs Country’s One of the West The climbs are up to 3 pitches long, mid-grade trad climber. on excellent granite and in a magical setting. Classic multi-pitch lines that soar up and out of the Great Cave, and two sea level traverses that radiate from the Great Cave. Some nesting restrictions. on the Main adventurous and spectacular climbing Sunny, Cliff contrasts with more technical climbing in the quarries. Sheltered and non-tidal. sport A picturesque setting above a gorgeous cove, with hard routes and serious trad climbs. Can be very warm in the summer. most popular sport climbing destination with The UK’s hundreds of routes across a broad spread of grades. Good weather and quick-to-dry but can get busy. A massive cliff with a mix of sport and trad climbs in an adventurous setting. Most climbs require committing abseil approaches. Fewer tide problems but some bird restrictions. Three atmospheric tidal cliffs that can be combined in a be combined cliffs that can tidal Three atmospheric are poor. cliff if conditions Zennor plus the nearby single visit can retain dampness. three cliffs The main no set high above the sea with best known cliff Cornwall’s easy or hard. Something for all - long, short, tidal problems. Ridge areas. The Great Zawn and Bosigran Also includes place killas slate face is a popular shear looking Kenidjack’s of the finest non-tidal and home to one that is sheltered, HVSs on the coast. The grade granite. pitches on super-solid An array of superb easier and mid-grade lines are span is wide and the plentiful some of the best on the coast. quality granite but a numberA complex area with some mixed route. Pordenack Point hasof good pitches and a great ridge has some classic routes. better rock, is barely tidal and are two remote and quiet Carn Les Boel and Zawn Kellys Carn Barra is great for harder cliffs with great atmosphere. single pitch climbs. Fox Promontory is a quiet location. low and mid-grade multi- A fantastic sea-cliff with superb to get perfectpitch routes Can be frustrating as conditions, are a big problem at times. the cliff is tidal and nesting birds of the coast, with a number of An often-overlooked section set of crags. worthwhile routes on a diverse presents some diverse climbing A long strip of coastline that styles and aesthetically interesting cliffs. An increasingly popular crag, set high above the sea. Sheltered with some good pitches on granite. Can be combined with other crags at Lizard Point.

2 areas Birds C C Most areas J J J J J J J J J J Abseil Tides % % % % % % % % % % % % % Sun R R R R } U R U } R E E E E E E E E E W W 5 to 12 min 10 to 20 min 10 to 45 min 5 to 20 min 4 min 10 to 15 min 10 to 25 min 12 min 25 to 40 min 20 min 10 to 15 min 5 min 5 min 5 to 15 min 20 min 12 min 3 to 10 min 9 to 10 min 5 to 15 min 15 to 25 min 15 to 25 10 min Approach F G A G A A F G F S A F F F F A S S G G S Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restricted an abseil / are tidal / require are some of the routes Shaded means that only ------7 7 7 7 7 7 3 3 4 2 6 7 3 5 4 1 3 2 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 10 17 21 29 333 333 333 333 333 E4 and up E4 3 3 5 6 8 2 5 4 3 1 5 9 1 3 5 3 5 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 10 12 13 14 41 20 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 E1 to E3 to E1 - Not worth a visit 7 - 7 7 5 8 2 4 8 4 4 4 9 5 9 4 3 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 11 10 19 17 13 13 17 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 - Okay HS to HVS to HS 3 ------7 7 7 7 7 7 7 - Good 3 3 3 6 7 3 1 4 2 9 6 2 3 4 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 10 10 13 12 333 333 333 33 up to Sev to up 7 6 - Excellent 16 19 13 17 12 14 10 10 32 81 62 23 36 21 26 36 42 34 36 Routes 333

Crag Table 2 Table Crag

Portland Swanage Anstey's and Long Quarry and Long Anstey's Berry Head Daddyhole The Dewerstone The Haytor and Hound Tor and Hound Haytor and Tor BenchSheeps Tor Torbryan Quarry Torbryan Lizard Point Lizard Chudleigh Trewavas Head Trewavas Porthgwarra to St. Levans St. to Porthgwarra Levan's St. West, Vessacks Hella Point, Porthgwarra, Du Tater to Head Cribba Du Tater Loy, St. Cribba Head, Chair LadderChair Lands Pordenack End and Boel Fox Les to Carn Promontory Fox Barra, Carn Kellys, Zawn les Boel, Carn Sennen Bosigran Kenidjack Gurnard's Head Area Head Gurnard's Rocks Robin's Gloose, Carn Gurnards, Zennor, Quality and range of routes in different grade bands: grade in different Quality of routes and range

Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset West Penwith 36 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset

West Penwith West Dorset Torbay Devon Inland Lizard Quality andrange of routes Quality in different grade bands: Swanage Portland Anstey's andLong Quarry Daddyhole Head Berry The Dewerstone TorSheepsBench Torand Haytor andHound Tor Torbryan Quarry Chudleigh Lizard Point Trewavas Head Head,Cribba St. Loy, Tater Du Cribba Head to Tater Du Porthgwarra, HellaPoint, Vessacks West, St. Levan's Porthgwarra to St. Levans Chair Ladder Carn lesBoel, Zawn Kellys, Carn Barra, Fox Promontory Carn Lesto Fox Boel EndandPordenackLands Sennen Kenidjack Bosigran Zennor, Gurnards, Carn Gloose, Robin's Rocks Gurnard's Head Area

333 Routes 62 81 32 21 36 23 36 26 36 34 42 13 19 16 14 12 17 10 10 -Excellent 7 6 up to Sev 33 333 333 333 12 13 10 10 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 6 9 2 4 4 3 2 6 1 3 7 3 3 3 -Good 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 ------3 HS to HVS -Okay 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 19 13 17 17 13 10 11 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 2 8 5 9 5 9 4 4 4 8 4 3 4 7 7 - 7 - Not worth avisit -Not worth E1 to E3 333 333 333 333 333 333 333 20 41 13 12 14 10 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 8 6 5 3 1 9 5 1 3 4 5 2 5 3 5 3 3 E4 andup 333 333 333 333 333 21 29 17 10 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 4 3 4 5 3 7 6 2 2 3 1 3 7 7 7 7 7 7 ------Shaded means that only some ofthe routes are tidal / require anabseil / are restricted A A G A G F S S A F F F F A S F G F S G G Approach 15 to25min 9 to10min 3 to10min 5 to15min 10 min 10 to25min 12 min 20 min 10 to15min 5 to15min 5 min 5 min 10 to15min 20 min 25 to40min 12 min 10 to45min 10 to20min 5 to12min 4 min 5 to20min W W E E E E E E E E E } R R R R } R U R U Sun % % % % % % % % % % % % % Tides Abseil J J J J J J J J J J Most areas C C Birds 2 areas

Devon ruralroads. finding, butthefineclimbsarewellworthbattlewith A smallbutexcellentlimestonesportcrag.Takes abitof are alltradanduptofourpitcheslong. Devon, butnottoofarfromDartmoorandTorbay. Theclimbs popularlimestonecliff,setinthedepthsofrural A very in asuperblocation. mainland’s mostsoutherlypoint.Theclimbsareexcellentand A collectionofdarksea-cliffsdottedaroundtheUK combined withothercragsatLizardPoint. Sheltered withsomegoodpitchesongranite.Canbe An increasinglypopularcrag,sethighabovethesea. styles andaestheticallyinterestingcliffs. A longstripofcoastlinethatpresentssomediverseclimbing worthwhile routesonadiversesetofcrags. An often-overlookedsectionofthecoast,withanumber the cliffistidalandnestingbirdsareabigproblemattimes. conditions,as pitch routesCanbefrustratingtogetperfect A fantasticsea-cliffwithsuperblowandmid-grademulti- isaquietlocation. single pitchclimbs.FoxPromontory cliffs withgreatatmosphere.CarnBarraisforharder Carn LesBoelandZawnKellysaretworemotequiet better rock,isbarelytidalandhassomeclassicroutes. of goodpitchesandagreatridgeroute.PordenackPointhas A complexareawithsomemixedqualitygranitebutanumber some ofthebestoncoast. span iswideandtheplentifuleasiermid-gradelinesare An arrayofsuperbpitchesonsuper-solid granite.Thegrade HVSs onthecoast. that issheltered,non-tidalandhometooneofthefinest Kenidjack’s shearlookingkillasslatefaceisapopularplace Also includesTheGreatZawnandBosigranRidgeareas. tidal problems.Somethingforall-long,short,easyorhard. Cornwall’s bestknowncliffsethighabovetheseawithno The mainthreecliffscanretaindampness. single visitplusthenearbyZennorcliffifconditionsarepoor. Three atmospherictidalcliffsthatcanbecombinedina approaches. Fewer tideproblems but somebird restrictions. adventurous setting.Mostclimbs requirecommitting abseil A massivecliffwitha mixofsportandtradclimbsinan butcanget busy.weather andquick-to-dry hundreds ofroutesacross abroadspreadofgrades.Good The UK’s most popularsportclimbingdestinationwith summer. warminthe routes andserioustradclimbs.Canbevery A picturesquesettingaboveagorgeouscove, withhardsport Sheltered andnon-tidal. Cliff contrastswithmoretechnicalclimbing inthequarries. Sunny, adventurousandspectacularclimbingontheMain Cave. Somenestingrestrictions. Cave, andtwosealeveltraversesthatradiatefromtheGreat Classic multi-pitchlinesthatsoarupandoutoftheGreat on excellentgraniteandinamagicalsetting. mid-grade tradclimber. Theclimbsareupto3pitcheslong, One oftheWest Country’s finest cliffsforthelowerand one athleticclassic.SheepsTor isoftenusedbygroups. lines, whereasBenchTor hasalimitednumberoflines,and Sheeps Tor popularplace,withalotofshort,easier isavery fun pitches. routes. HoundTor isafriendlyvenuewithplentyofshort, Dartmoor's largesttorthatisrarelyquiet.Brilliantrockand Summary 220 390 360 330 314 310 286 272 256 232 Page 198 188 374 354 344 324 300 282 266 242 224

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 38 West Country Climbing Graded List and Top 50

Avon Somerset This is a very rough graded list of the best routes. 7a+ Page As ever, it will not be found accurate by eveyone. *** c Chiming for You...... 77 If you disagree strongly with it, then please let us *** c Pump Hitler...... 382 know via the voting on the Route Database on the 4 c England’s Dreaming...... 376 web site - www.rockfax.com *** c Victims of Fashion...... 380 *** c Barney Rubble ...... 313 *** c Reverence...... 385

North Devon North Top 50 - The 'Top 50' are not necessarily the best 50 routes in the book, just 50 great challenges 7a through the grade range. *** c Portland Heights...... 378 *** c Superfly Guy...... 386 *** c Get that Man! ...... 86 *** c Shakin’ Like a Leaf ...... 86 ** c Chepito...... 79 Sport Routes c

Culm Coast *** Pearl Harbour...... 79 8c+ Page 6c+ *** c Brian...... 363 *** c Best Fingers Forward ...... 384 *** c Nothing but the Groove...... 386 8b *** c A Fisherman’s Tale ...... 363 Inland CornwallInland 6c *** c Tuppence ...... 363 *** c Mayday...... 313 *** c Brean Topping...... 80 *** c Burning Skies...... 378 ** c Coral Sea ...... 79 8a+ *** c Palace of the Brine...... 402 6b+ 4 c Infinite Gravity...... 401 *** c Buoys Will Be Buoys...... 382 *** c Lord Stublock Deepvoid ...... 379 Atlantic Coast 8a *** c The Jewel of the Isle...... 384 *** c The Cider Soak...... 363 6b 7c+ *** c The Watchman...... 384 *** c Shadow Beast...... 368 *** c La Créme ...... 363 6a+ *** c Monoculture ...... 380 *** c Reptile Smile...... 376 West Penwith *** c Smashing of Amps ...... 75 *** c Stalker’s Zone...... 385 *** c Psychokiller...... 156 *** c Trad Free World...... 385 *** c Temple Redneck...... 402 *** c Avenged ...... 362 *** c Storm Warning ...... 80 5 c *** c Total Seizure...... 403 *** Slings Shot...... 376

The Lizard 7c *** c Return of the Gunfighter...... 86 Trad Routes *** c Hall of Mirrors...... 389 *** c El Chocco...... 80 E9 4 c The Walk of Life ...... 118 7b+ ** c Question Mark...... 274 *** c The Lynch...... 363 Inland DevonInland *** c Bird of Paradise...... 86 E8 4 c Empire of the Sun...... 362 *** c Pre-Marital Tension...... 274 *** c Waves Become Wings ...... 403 *** c Wall of Spirits ...... 175 *** c Chulilla ...... 80 4 c The Monk’s Satanic Verses...... 143 *** c Starscrape...... 86 *** c Zinc Oxide Mountain...... 383 E6 *** c Hellbound...... 116 7b *** c Savage Earthsea...... 348 c Torbay *** Want Out...... 389 *** c Watching the Ocean...... 105 *** c Rampage ...... 155 *** c The Jimi Hendrix Experience. . . . . 77 *** c More Steam, Bigger Women!!! . . . . 365 *** c Free the Spirit...... 367 *** c Living Dead...... 77 *** c Booby Prize...... 127 *** c Halfway to Heaven ...... 385 *** c Coronary Country...... 143 *** c Tessellations...... 403 *** c Pink Ginsane...... 59 *** c Thread Flintstone ...... 313 *** c The Mind Cathedral...... 402 *** c Paradise Lost ...... 86 c

Dorset *** Caribbean Blue...... 367 *** c The Earthsea Trilogy Part 1 . . . . . 118 4 c Caveman...... 348 *** c Edgemaster...... 54 *** c Demolition...... 227 Graded List and Top 50 West Country Climbing 39

*** c International ...... 294 E5 Page *** c Wolfman Jack...... 105 c *** Rough Justice...... 319 *** c Ahimsa ...... 86 c *** The West Face ...... 217 *** c Last Slip ...... 53 c *** Changeling...... 60 *** c Them...... 50 c *** Creeping Flesh...... 116 *** c Combat...... 308 c *** White Life ...... 304 *** c Rustic Wall Direct ...... 74 Somerset Avon c *** Black Magic (Pentire Head)...... 175 *** c Amnesty...... 294 4 c Il Duce...... 168 *** c Mastodon ...... 193 c *** Footless Madness...... 248 *** c Diamond Smiles...... 138 c *** Devonshire Cream ...... 362 *** c Sunny Corner Lane...... 248 4 c Darkinbad the Brightdayler...... 175 *** c Longships Wall...... 236 c *** Antiworlds...... 105 *** c The Great Divide...... 105

c North Devon *** Olympica...... 105 *** c Krapp’s Last Tape...... 59 c *** Supernova...... 105 *** c Mickey Mouse...... 408 c *** Low Profile...... 50 *** c Crow...... 86 c *** The Empire...... 86 *** c Brainbiter...... 86 c *** A Widespread Ocean of Fear. . . . .105 *** c Dreadnought...... 347 c *** Cullinan...... 105 *** c Interrogation ...... 317 c *** Evil Eye...... 202 *** c Grand Plage...... 248

c Coast Culm *** Wall of the Worlds...... 407 *** c The Ghost...... 205 c *** Polaris...... 401 4 c Ocean Boulevard...... 407 4 c Pacemaker ...... 142 *** c Soul Sacrifice ...... 411 c *** Tricky Dicky...... 75 *** c Pressure Drop...... 121 4 c The Cull...... 295 E4 *** c Flash Dance...... 355 *** c Cithaeron...... 105 *** c Black Ice...... 368 *** c Warlord (Cheddar) ...... 86 4 c Yellow Edge...... 49

*** c Vagabond...... 168 *** c Certain Surprise...... 75 Inland Cornwall *** c Interspace...... 245 *** c Cocytus...... 365 4 c Immaculate Arete ...... 241 *** c Burning Gold...... 245 c E2 *** Renegade...... 368 *** c The Preter...... 59 4 c Fay ...... 143 *** c Quatermass ...... 105 c *** Warlord (Swanage)...... 394 *** c Heart of the Sun...... 98 c Coast Atlantic *** Mother Africa...... 407 *** c Redspeed...... 105 c *** Central Wall...... 59 4 c Mercury Direct...... 181 4 c Peryl...... 60 *** c Eyefull Tower...... 156 c *** Mal de Mer ...... 105 *** c Crimtyphon...... 147 c *** Phantasm...... 179 4 c Sacre Coeur ...... 113 c *** Black Death...... 304 *** c Lich Gates...... 60 c *** Blinding Flash...... 355 *** c Xanadu...... 218

c Penwith West *** Call to Arms...... 367 *** c Samson Arete...... 227 c *** Impending Gleam...... 402 *** c Tudor Rose...... 394 c *** Rough Diamond ...... 319 *** c Destiny ...... 105 c *** Cian...... 294 *** c Out of the Blue ...... 139 c *** Amanita Muscarina...... 49 *** c Ximenes ...... 411 c *** Highway One...... 71 *** c Rainbow Games...... 182 c *** The Tomb ...... 180 *** c Combined Ops ...... 309 c Lizard The *** Deja Vu...... 217 4 c Bow Wall...... 206 c *** Cain...... 241 *** c Gypsy...... 410 c *** Golden Brown...... 248 4 c Mars ...... 416 c *** Eroica...... 175 *** c Buccaneer...... 408 c *** Rainbow Bridge...... 351 *** c Hostile Witness...... 325 4 c America...... 178 *** c Crinoid...... 355 c *** Arms Race ...... 50 *** c The Conger...... 401 *** c Milky Way...... 105 *** c Break On Through...... 142 Inland Devon *** c Freeborn Man...... 401 E1 4 c Astral Stroll...... 196 *** c Rock Dancer...... 222 E3 *** c American Dream...... 245 4 c The Dream/Liberator...... 217 *** c Dark Power...... 105 *** c The Promised Land...... 105 *** c Suicide Wall...... 205 Torbay c *** Think Pink...... 59 4 c The Spider ...... 303 c *** Facedancin’...... 394 *** c Seventh Dread ...... 347 c *** Jamaican Dub...... 113 *** c Thunderball...... 407 c *** More than a Match ...... 134 *** c Lotus...... 171 c *** High Noon/Mauritius...... 156 *** c Fifth Appendage ...... 105 4 c Kafoozalem...... 202 *** c The Earl of Perth...... 68 *** c Raven Wall ...... 203

*** c The Spook...... 396 Dorset c *** Ladder of Desire...... 50 *** c Incubus...... 367 c *** The Mitre...... 362 4 c Coronation Street ...... 86 40 West Country Climbing Graded List and Top 50 Avon Somerset E1 continued ... Page S Page *** c Elysium...... 410 ** c Nightmare...... 53 *** c Scimitar Variations ...... 334 ** c Red Wall...... 260 *** c The Indy 500...... 105 ** c Sleepwalk...... 53 *** c Limbo ...... 68 ** c Doorway ...... 209 *** c Gargantua...... 357 4 c Pendulum Chimney...... 260 *** c The Smile...... 139 ** c Second Corner...... 415

North Devon North *** c Matchless...... 134 4 c Shangri-La ...... 96 *** c Gideon ...... 337 *** c Ben...... 100 *** c Headline...... 105 ** c Ochre Slab Route ll...... 200 *** c Bishop’s Rib ...... 263 ** c First Corner...... 415 *** c Fruitflancase...... 336 ** c Integrity...... 104 4 c Aviation...... 317 ** c Porthgwarra Chimney...... 268 *** c Oesophagus...... 308 ** c Sol...... 133 *** c Satan’s Slip...... 105 ** c Helluva Slab...... 269 Culm Coast *** c Letterbox Wall/Hangover...... 318 ** c Raven Gully...... 317 *** c Magical Mystery Tour ...... 350 ** c Crack and Chimney...... 328 *** c Haggis...... 318 ** c Tombstone...... 133 *** c Avernus...... 415 HVS ** c Andrew...... 209 *** c Lunakhod ...... 140 Inland CornwallInland *** c Behemoth...... 411 HVD 4 c Midnight Cowboy...... 101 ** c Morpheus...... 53 *** c American Beauty...... 105 ** c Barn Owl Crack...... 306 4 c Malbogies...... 59 *** c Ledge Climb...... 209 4 c Climbers’ Club Direct...... 337 ** c Oread ...... 210 *** c Suspense ...... 68 ** c No Name...... 228 4 c Moonraker...... 347 ** c Peel Crack...... 249 *** c Hell Gates...... 68 ** c Devonleigh ...... 323 Atlantic Coast *** c Last Exit to Torquay...... 357 *** c Wogs...... 304 4 c Saxon ...... 222 ** c Route B...... 337 *** c Spider’s Web...... 339 *** c Great Central Route ...... 64 VDiff 4 c Finale Groove...... 408 4 c Bosigran Ridge...... 215 4 c Formula One...... 105 ** c Rake’s Progress...... 259 *** c Lightning Wall...... 410 4 c Land’s End Long Climb...... 237 West Penwith *** c Vandal and Ann...... 319 ** c Needle Arete...... 338 *** c Quality Street ...... 397 ** c The Vice ...... 323 *** c Gates of Eden...... 357 ** c Bob’s Climb...... 63 ** c Scrattling Crack...... 94 VS 4 c Terrier’s Tooth...... 264 4 c Lost Horizon...... 96 *** c The Long Traverse...... 367 4 c Martell Slab...... 276 ** c Colonel’s Arete ...... 332 *** c Anvil Chorus...... 209 ** c Battery Rib ...... 104 The Lizard *** c Sensible Shoes...... 197 ** c Banana Flake...... 227 4 c Tatra ...... 408 ** c South East Buttress ...... 161 *** c Giant’s Cave Buttress...... 66 ** c Bulging Wall ...... 318 *** c Shamrock...... 104 ** c Oak Tree Zig Zag...... 325 *** c Nameless ...... 205 ** c Pinnacle Buttress ...... 332 4 c South Face Direct...... 261 ** c Blind Pew ...... 292

Inland DevonInland 4 c Diocese...... 263 ** c In-Between...... 210 *** c Tensor II ...... 396 *** c South East Climb ...... 158 *** c Freda...... 415 *** c Porthgwarra Face...... 268 *** c Great Western...... 302 ** c Corner Climb...... 227 4 c Inkerman Groove ...... 304 *** c Albion ...... 104 Diff *** c Eclipse ...... 104 ** c Greenmantel...... 308 *** c Leviathan...... 334 ** c Senior’s Route...... 230 *** c Sarcophagus...... 308 ** c Black Slab (Bosigran)...... 200 Torbay *** c Suspension Flake...... 322 ** c Mucky Gully...... 332 4 c Alison Rib...... 210 HS ** c Staircase...... 229 *** c Flannel Avenue...... 263 4 c Central Groove...... 334 *** c Pegasus ...... 258 4 c Right Angle...... 192 Dorset *** c Wall Street...... 397 4 c Doorpost...... 206 4 c Demo Route...... 227 *** c Box of Delights...... 132 4 c The Devil’s Slide...... 104 Graded List and Top 50 West Country Climbing 41 Avon Somerset Avon North Devon Culm Coast Culm Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Atlantic West Penwith West The Lizard The Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Pippa Froggatt finishing the exposed final pitch of the Top 50 route Right Angle (HS 4b) - page 192 - at Gurnard's Head, West Penwith. Photo: Chris Sims

86 64 64 79 79 86 77 56 94 63 59 75 60 79 80 379 365 285 332 308 367 348 334 154 358 367 319 171 147 140 337 337 376 263 245 234 143 275 379 309 363 105 227 309 381 401 389 234 160 227 353 123 384 294 325

55 80 87 83 73

233 293

334 170 123

.

Central Wall Cocteau Phenomena Cocytus Colomen Colonel's Arete Combat Combined Ops Caribbean Blue of Sand Castles Made Caveman Central Buttress (Avon) Central Buttress (Bench Tor) Central Groove Central Rib Central Route Clotted Cream Call to Arms Call to Canis Caprice Caravanserai Clashing Socks Clawtrack Climbers' Club Direct Climbers' Club Ordinary Cake Walk Caliban Cool Diamonds Coral Sea Cormorant Slab Cormorant's Bill, The Coronary Country Coronation Street Chiming for You Chlorophyll Cluster Choker 1 Chouinard's Yard The Chronicles of Vladimir, Chudleigh Overhang Chulilla Cider Soak, The Cithaeron Civvy Route Clarion Come, Armageddon, Come The Conger, Consommé Corner and Staircase Corner Climb Certain Surprise Changeling Chastity Corner Chepito Chien Lunatique Child of Light Cian E4 7b+ E6 E4 E4 7b E5 E6 7a+ 8a * HVS * HVD * VS * VS * VS * HVS * HVS * E3 * S * HVS * HVS * * 6c+ * Diff * VS * HVS * 6c+ ** VDiff ** 6c ** ** VS ** VS ** ** 6a ** 6c ** E1 ** E1 ** E1 ** HS ** VS ** 6a+ ** ** VDiff ** 7a *** E3 *** E3 *** E2 *** E1 *** *** *** *** 7b+ *** E4 *** E2 *** *** E3 *** E5 *** *** E4 ***

4 E6 4 HS

4 HVS

4 E1 6c+

86 71 86 81 63 56 80 82 86 79 80 49 79 127 313 215 206 132 274 274 388 363 319 388 408 318 388 384 304 104 368 193 365 353 403 263 263 245 378 241 355 119 142 382 329 175 200 228 292 411 100 205 271 384 210 291 353

3

383 162 391 311 214 369 278

Break On Through Booby Prize Boogie on Down Bosigran Ridge Bow Wall Box of Delights Boysen's Cracks Boysen's Groove Brainbiter Black Magic (Pentire Head) Breathing Method, The Brian Bridal Piton Slab Brief Encounter The Brink of Solarity, British Summertime Buccaneer Bulging Wall Bullworker Buoys Will Be Buoys Blowing the Gimp Blue Faced Booby Bob's Climb Bonbogies Black Death Black Hand, The Black Ice Head) Black Magic (Gurnard’s Brean Topping Blonde Bombshell Blood Birth Pains of New Nations Bishop's Arete Bishop's Rib Brean Machine, The Burning Gold Burning Skies Cain Black Snake Moan Blinding Flash Blisterin' Barnacle Bird of Paradise Behemoth (Swanage) Behemoth Brean Dream Burdock Black Slab (Bosigran) Black Slab (Sennen) Blik, The Blind Pew Ben Beowolf Bermuda Wall Best Fingers Forward Big Top Bikini Atoll Play Bilson's Fowl Binky E4 E6 E5 8a 7a+ E4 8b E5 7b E5 E4 8a E4 7b+ * E2 * Diff * * 6a+ * HS * VDiff * VDiff ** 6c ** E3 ** 6a+ ** HVS ** 6b+ ** VDiff ** 7c ** 6c ** VDiff ** HVS ** VS ** E2 ** ** E1 ** HVS ** E2 ** ** ** ** Diff ** ** E3 ** VDiff ** E2 ** E3 ** HS *** HS *** E3 *** *** 8c+ *** E2 *** 6b+ *** *** E3 *** *** E1 *** *** *** 6c *** E4 *** HVS *** *** *** S *** 6c+ *** 4 VDiff 4 E2

6c+ VDiff 49 86 50 63 50 68 71 313 396 104 202 313 154 104 183 210 382 380 329 306 105 353 365 263 322 228 275 227 363 292 179 226 365 294 209 236 105 209 318 112 227 126 202 192 306 196 416 318 379 205 284 362 415 317 250 414 178 104 245

43 46

191 177

312 195

Route Index Route

......

Amanita Muscarina America Barney Rubble Batt Crack Battery Rib Beaker Route Bedrock Behemoth (Gurnard's Head) Agent Provocateur Ahimsa Albion Alex of Gowla Alison Rib Always Have the Edge Barbed Wire Kisses Barking Crack Barn Owl Crack A Widespread Ocean of Fear A Widespread Abbot's Way Acheron Aerial Aerobic Wall Africa Route Arms Race Baldest, The (St. Loy) Banana Flake Banshee A Little Gemma A Little Full of Clowns A Sack of Fancy A Swift Flight American Express Amnesty Andrew Antenna Antiworlds Anvil Chorus Aramis The Archtempter, Arete, The (Avon) Arete, The (Sennen) Argonaut Direct The Armchair, Tale A Fisherman's Ash Tree Buttress Ash Tree Astral Stroll Astrid Athos Ausfahrt Autumn Flakes Avalanche Avenged Avernus Aviation Axis Baby Duck Balcony Baldest, The (Portishead) American Beauty American Dream E4 7a+ 7b 7a+ E5 E4 E5 7a+ 8b

* HVS * HVD * HVS * E2 * * E2 * Diff * HVS * VDiff * VDiff * VS * HVS ** VS ** VDiff ** 6b+ ** E2 ** E1 ** 6c ** HVD ** HVS ** VS ** VS ** VDiff ** ** E1 ** E3 ** S ** E4 ** VS ** E3 ** VDiff ** VS ** HVS ** 6b+ ** HS ** VS ** E1 ** HS **

*** E3 *** VS *** *** *** *** E3 *** E5 *** VS *** *** 7c+ *** S *** *** HVS *** E1 *** 4 E4

4 Diff

HVS 4 E1 4 E1

418 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset

4E3 4

4HS 4HS

4HS 4VS

*** *** E5 *** E3 *** E2 *** E2 *** E1 *** *** E2 *** E6 *** *** E3 ** E1 ** S ** E3 ** HVS ** ** ** HVS ** E3 ** ** E4 ** ** E2 ** VS ** E2 ** E2 ** HVD ** ** S ** E1 ** HVS ** E1 ** VS ** VS ** HVS ** VS * E1 * HS * E2 * HS * 6a * S * E1 * HVS * S * VS * HVS * S * E2 * VS * S * HS * HVS * HS * HVD E5 E6 7a+ E5 E4 E4 E5 E5 7a+ Crazy Streak Crack intheSky Crack andChimney Corsican Days Corpse, The Creeping Flesh Curtain Raiser, The Cumbelloe Cullinan Cull, The Cruising foraBruising Crow's NestOrdinary Crow Crooked Mile Crocadilia Crinoid Crimtyphon Crimson Dynamo Dark Power Dandelion D'Artagnan Cyclops Cybernetic Orchard Dawn Walk Dawn Darkinbad theBrightdayler Daydream Day Tripper Devil's Slide,The Devil's Meridian Devil's Chimney, The Destiny Desolation Row Desecrator Demolition Demo Route Delilah Deja Vu Devonleigh Devonian, The Doorway Doors ofPerception Doorpost Dong Don't StopNow Dolphin Cracks Direct Route(Sennen) Direct Route(Avon) Diocese Dinner Date Ding Diamond Solitare Diamond Smiles Diamond Rib Dialectic Dextrose Dexter (Sennen) Dexter (Avon) Devonshire Cream Double Chockstone Double Agent

.

.

137

126 248 328 116 254 249 105 295 251 276 139 376 355 147 104 329 318 338 378 295 175 234 104 271 104 105 219 226 227 226 217 323 138 209 206 200 318 231 154 263 200 104 138 358 250 229 229 362 415 154 75 56 86 74 60 54 49 95 63 86 63 4 4 4HVS 4E4 4HVS

4E3 *** *** E4 *** *** E6 *** VS *** E3 *** E2 *** E1 *** *** E3 *** HS *** E1 *** *** *** E1 *** *** VS *** *** E1 *** E3 ** 6a+ ** 6b ** 6c ** ** 6b+ ** ** E1 ** HVS ** Mod ** HS ** S ** HS ** E2 ** E2 ** E2 ** ** 6c ** VS ** HVS * VDiff * HVS * HS * VS * * E2 * VS * E1 * E4 * 6c * HS * * VS * HVS E5 7a+ 7c E4 E5 7b+ 7a+ E5 E5 E6 E6 E4 7b+ 7b Evening Falls European Flavour Eroica Enchanted Path,The Edgemaster Economist's Climb Eclipse Dulcima Driven LiketheSnow Facedancin' Föhn Eyefull Tower Exodus Excelsior Excalibur Evil Eye England's Dreaming Elysium El Chocco Dune Dust Flying Circus Flying Buttress,The Fly OnTheWall Floating Voter Flier, The Flash Dance Flannel Avenue First Corner Finesse Finale Groove Figuzzi Fifth Appendage Ffoeg's Folly Fay Fantasy Island False Gods Empire oftheSun Earl ofPerth,The Careful Preparation Dusty BedrockinNeedof Freddie Freda Fourteen Fathoms Four forTexas Formula One Footless Madness Empire, The Earthsea Trilogy Part1,The Free theSpirit Freeborn Man Fruitflancase Friends Frenzied Detruncation Fun Factory, The Dream/Liberator, The Dream Lover Dreadnought Downtown JulieBrown Double Overhang Double Diamond

.

381 395 148 243 338 412 337 345 103

173 117 213 377

91 .379

376 175 118 217 380 388 384 240 104 143 379 394 123 156 250 260 245 202 410 410 171 104 339 316 355 263 415 275 408 157 104 143 387 367 362 100 415 251 182 104 248 367 401 336 241 387 383 347 376 228 104 54 81 54 53 68 86 95

VS

6c+

Route Index *** *** E1 *** E2 *** *** E2 *** E1 *** E6 *** HVS *** E1 *** VS *** E3 *** 7a *** HVS *** E1 *** *** VS *** E3 *** HVS *** E3 ** ** E3 ** E2 ** ** E2 ** VS ** E3 ** E3 ** 7b ** HVS ** E1 ** ** E5 ** HVS ** E2 ** HVS ** HVS ** ** VS ** E2 ** Diff ** E2 ** E6 * VS * 7c * VS * 7a * E5 * HS * * S * E2 * S * HS * * E1 * E3 * VDiff * E2 * E2 7c 7b 7c 7b 7c E4 E4 7a+ E4 Half Life Haile Selassie Haggis Gypsy Guy FawkesCrack Guilt Edge,The Halfway toHeaven Heartland Heart oftheSun Headline Hayloft Haute Cuisine Harvestman Harpoon Harder Halley's Corner Hall ofMirrors Hellbound Hell Gates Heidelberg Creature, The Heathen Man Glass Arete Gillian Gideon Giant's CaveButtress Ghost, The Get thatMan! Geriatrics Genuflection Genge's Groove Geireagle II Gates ofEden Gargantua Gangway Gagool Gneiss Gnome Global Solutions Godspell Goddess ofGloom God Forbid Good Dog Golva Goldrush, The Golden Fleece,The Golden Brown Gronk Grim Reaper Grendel Greenmantel Green CormorantFace Great Western Great Slanting Great Divide,The Great Corner Great CentralRoute Gratuitous LiesHere Grandma's Groove Grand Plage Grand Larceny Guernica GT Special

.

. .

.

131 331 359 287 247

4

9

178 122 127 318 410 307 385 387 104 231 389 302 133 274 295 388 116 408 362 337 249 230 205 271 385 226 249 357 357 414 309 222 112 347 161 356 230 288 411 248 302 203 308 216 302 292 105 381 415 248 378 81 98 68 66 86 81 53 82 64 68 419

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 50 50 53 59 81 94 59 63 305 402 138 362 230 305 248 358 105 365 134 105 387 381 100 249 416 276 285 138 193 134 105 178 313 389 332 328 143 380 347 365 161 307 407 284 416 181 408 355 101 271 362 292 270 289 350 227

11

404 417 267 352 ....

135 277 283 109 333 340 361 281

. . . .

. . . . .

Mother Africa M1 Wall Machete of the Sea Madonna Mind Cathedral, The Mirage Misery Goat Mitre, The Monday Face Mortality Crisis Mean Street Median Lucky Melpomene Milky Way More Steam, Bigger More than a Match Morpheus Mal de Mer Malbogies Man Who Never .... Margaret on the Guillotine Marion Marisco Striptease Mars Martell Slab Mascara Mascon Mastodon Matchless Matt Black Mausoleum Mayday Mouth Waters, The Mouth Waters, Mucky Gully Mushroom Wall Milky Bar Kid The Monk's Satanic Verses, Monoculture Moonraker Moonshot (Anstey’s) Moonshot (Baggy) Moping Owl Main Wall Eliminate Main Wall Major Tom Mouseproof Mercury Direct Mercury Mickey Mouse The Midas Touch, Midnight Cowboy Midnight Express Might and Main Mike's Mistake Mile End Mae West Magical Mystery Tour Main Face Climb E4 E6 E4 E4 E4 7b E4 7a+ 8a E8 E4 * E1 * 6a * E2 * VS * E1 * Diff * VS * S * * Mod * * Diff ** E1 ** E2 ** E2 ** E3 ** E2 ** VS ** E4 ** HVD ** ** 6a+ ** HS ** VS ** E1 ** E3 ** E2 ** ** Diff ** E3 ** HVS ** E1 ** 6c+ ** E1 ** HVS ** *** E3 *** *** *** E3 *** E3 *** E1 *** 6c *** *** 7c+ *** *** *** E3 *** E1

4 HVS 4 E2 4 VS

4 HVS

4 E2 4 HVS 4

53 50 79 59 50 77 96 60 56 68 234 357 138 379 387 237 363 168 100 258 363 274 157 122 364 140 312 274 322 289 206 132 407 209 396 291 227 101 366 236 182 112 307 160 122 379 387 171 292 318 334 317 317 355 323 410 295 380 126

76

298 280

273 141

. . . .

......

......

......

Last Dance, The Last Exit to Torquay Last Laugh Last Rose of Summer Last Slip Lazarus La Usurpadora Ladder of Desire Land's End Long Climb La Créme King's Arete King's Kinkyboots Kittiwake Kraken Tape Krapp's Last Lynch, The Lynch, Living Dead Kernyck Wall Khyber Low Profile Lucky Streak Lumpy Universe, The Lunakhod Little White Lie Lovely, Lovely, Lovely Lovely, Lovely, Limbo Dancer Limelight Little Brown Jug Little Dribbler Lean Machine, The Ledge Climb Ledgend Direct Let Her Children Play Letterbox Letterbox Wall/Hangover Long Rock Eliminate The Long Traverse, Longships Wall Looking for a Rainbow Loose Woman Loot Lord Falmouth, The Lord Lucan is Missing Lord Stublock Deepvoid .... Lost Horizon Lost in Rock Lotus Love is Blind Leviathan Levitation Levitation Direct Liaison with Lenin Liars Dice Lich Gates Lich, The Lightning Wall Limbo Lazy Days and Summer Haze Lead Boots E4 7c 7c+ E4 7b+ 7b E5 7b E5 E4 E5 * VS * 6b+ * E1 * VS * HVS * S * E1 * E1 * E2 * VDiff * HVS * S * E1 ** E2 ** 7a ** E6 ** ** HVS ** HS ** E2 ** ** E3 ** HVS ** HVS ** ** HVS ** HS ** HVS ** 6c+ ** ** VS ** HVS ** HVS ** ** 6a+ ** *** HVS *** E3 *** E3 *** E3 *** *** HVS *** *** *** *** VS *** HVD *** E1 *** VDiff *** E3 *** 6b+ *** E1 *** VS *** E2 *** HVS *** E1

4 VDiff

4 VS

54 96 54 77 50 71 378 389 323 362 254 381 307 388 383 304 104 227 294 317 245 386 379 113 407 234 133 182 285 157 230 383 202 210 388 316 104 325 402 100 222 210 380 367 183 104 401 119 384 168 250 384 241 104 269 156 414

1 70

115 398 167 239

301 315 165 324

Route Index Route

Il Duce I Walk the Line the I Walk Idleburger Buttress Hurricane on a Millpond Hydraulic Arete How the Mighty Fall Huntsman, The Infinite Gravity Keel Haul Hot Ice Infernal Din Inferno Info Freako Inkerman Groove Integrity Intermediate Route International Interrogation Interspace Into the Groove Isle of Slingers Jamaican Dub Jasper Jazz Discharge Party Hat Jimi Hendrix Experience, The Jo Johnstone's Route Joi de Vivre Journey to Ixtlan Joy Juliet's Balcony Junior's Route Jurassic Shift Kafoozalem Kate Hocus Pocus The Holy Hand Grenade, Honeymoon Corner Horseman's Route Hostile Witness Immaculate Arete Impending Gleam In Her Eyes In the Gallery In-Between Inch Perfect, Inchworm Incubus Indian Country Indy 500, The Highway One Jewel of the Isle, The Illustrated Man Immaculata Immaculate Slab Helluva Slab Helluva High Noon/Mauritius High Street E5 7b 7c+ 7a+ 8a+ 7b E4 7b+ 7b+ E6 E4 E4 E4 E4

* VDiff * HVS * VS * S * 6b+ * HVS * E1 * S * HVS * S * HVS * Diff * 7a * VDiff * S * * S * HVS * Diff ** ** ** ** E5 ** S ** 6c+ ** HVS ** 7a ** HS ** VDiff ** 6b+ ** E2 ** ** ** ** E2 ** 6c ** HVS ** S

*** E3 *** E3 *** E4 *** E3 *** HVS *** E2 *** E1 *** E1 *** 6b+ *** *** *** E3 *** 4

4 4 VS 4 E3

4

420 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Diff 4E3 VS

4E5

*** E2 *** E5 *** E1 *** 6b+ *** 6c+ *** VS *** *** 7a *** ** ** 6c ** HVD ** E1 ** VS ** E1 ** S ** HVS ** E1 ** VDiff ** E2 ** ** HS ** VDiff ** HVS ** ** HVS ** Mod ** E2 ** HVS ** HVD ** 7a ** 6c ** 7b ** S ** HS ** 6c ** E2 ** E3 ** HVD ** E2 ** E3 ** VS ** * 6c * HVD * Diff * HVS * S * VS * VS * S * * E1 * 6c * 6b+ * VS 7b E4 E4 8a+ 7a+ 7b E4 Out oftheBlue Out ofReach,Mind Original Route Oread Port One inEvery Once UponaTime in... Omega Crack Olympica Old Faithful Oiseaux Oesophagus Ochre SlabRoutell Ochre SlabRoutel Ocean, The Ocean ofTears Ocean Boulevard Oak Tree ZigZag Numb Ones,The Notre Dame Nothing Much Nothing buttheGroove Not Blisterin'Barnacle Never onaSunday Nest Egg Needle Direct,The Needle Arete Nameless Muzzle, The Paragon Paddy Padansac Pacemaker Overhanging Corner Overhang Crack Outward Bound Outside theGate No Sweat No Name No meComaselCoco No ManisanIsland Nihil Nightmare Niche Wall New Saladin New HorizonsII New Horizons New Editions Peel Crack Peccary, The Pebbles Pearl Harbour Peace intheNineties Patience Pass thePigs Pandora's Box Pandora Palace oftheBrine Norfolk Coast Norfolk Paradise Lost Nose Decay

.

296 246

387 106

15 45 88 85

139 381 210 122 384 329 105 411 126 308 200 200 104 291 407 325 113 241 386 119 122 303 358 123 338 205 255 205 323 142 228 329 316 385 228 381 382 382 251 389 236 249 416 312 384 203 274 132 402 380 63 86 86 54 96 53 50 50 79 82

4E4 4S

*** E2 *** HVS *** *** *** 7a *** VDiff *** E5 *** E2 *** E3 *** *** E4 *** HS *** *** 7c+ *** E3 *** E3 *** 7b *** E2 *** *** 6a+ *** E4 *** E2 ** ** E4 ** S ** VS ** HS ** VS ** ** HVS ** 6a ** HVS ** HVS ** E3 ** VS ** E3 ** VDiff ** HVS ** E2 ** ** VS ** S ** VDiff ** S * E1 * HS * HVD * 6c+ * S * E1 * * HS * VDiff * VS * 6b * HVS * VDiff * E3 * 6b * HS

E9 7a+ E8 7b+ 7b+ E6 E4 E5 7c

Quatermass Quasimodo Quality Street Pyjamarama Purple Revrac,The Pulpit Potential Energy Portland Heights Porthgwarra Face Porthgwarra Chimney Porky Polaris Plumed Serpent,The Plimsoll Line Piton Route Ra Quo Vadis Question Mark Pump Hitler Preter, The Pressure Drop Pre-Marital Tension Pinch anInch Pickpocket (SplitRock) Pickpocket (Baggy) Philatus Pharos Phantasm Petros Peter Peryl People's Queen,The Pendulum Chimney Pegs Progress Peggy Potato Pegasus Racing Line,The Psychokiller Promised Land,The Prisoner ofConscience Pinnacle Traverse Pinnacle Buttress Pink Wall Traverse Pink Wall Direct Pink Ginsane Raven Wing Raven Wall Raven Gully Raven Face Rancho Cucamonga Rampage Rake's Progress Rainbow Games Rainbow Bridge Retaining the Ashes Reptile Smile Renegade Reek Redspeed Red Wall Red RagtoaBull Return ofthe Gunfighter

.

.

.

121 184

370 153

99 67 22

7

382 156 105 289 397 236 155 323 154 378 268 268 161 401 119 357 250 288 274 121 274 380 415 179 157 291 260 358 312 258 383 105 356 332 316 203 317 339 155 259 182 351 386 376 368 306 104 260 64 59 71 95 71 63 60 80 60 60 59 50 74 86

VS 4S Diff 4HS HS

4E2 4HVS

Route Index *** *** E1 *** VS *** VS *** 7a *** E1 *** 7a+ *** *** *** *** E1 *** VS *** E2 *** E3 *** E1 ** ** VS ** HVS ** Diff ** S ** ** ** ** VS ** E2 ** HS ** 6b+ ** ** VS ** HVD ** HVS ** E1 ** E1 ** VDiff * * HVS * 6c+ * HS * E1 * 7a * VS * E1 * VS * S * 7a * HVS * E2 * S * VDiff * E5 * * VS * VS * HVS * HS E4 7b+ 7c+ 7c 7b+ 7a+ E4 E5 7b+ E6 7a+ Seal Slab Sea Wolf Sea Green Sexilegs Seventh Veil Seventh Dread Serious Music Sensible Shoes Senior's Route Second Corner Seaward Edge Sears Tower, The Shangri-La Shamrock Shakin' LikeaLeaf Shadow Beast Shield, The Sheltered Crack Shells, The Shawangunk Shark Shape Shifter Shining Heart Rock Dancer Road Runner Rite ofSpring Right Angle Rhinoceros Reynard's Revenge Reverse Cleft Reverence Reveille Reve D'unCorbeau Return toRoissy Rosebud inJune Roof ofInequity, The Rough Diamond Royal Forester, The Route B Rough Justice Saturn Five Satan's Slip Saskia Sarcophagus Sapphire Samson Arete Saltheart Salome Sahara Sacrosanct Sacre Coeur Rustic Wall Direct Running ItIn Screw Scrattling Crack Scimitar Variations Scar Saxon Savage Earthsea Sea Fury Sea Breeze Screw theRoses....

186 221 189 225 111 222

41

240 258 251 139 101 307 347 380 197 230 415 126 388 104 368 222 329 379 268 193 382 387 222 104 113 192 317 254 332 385 254 380 379 188 319 188 337 319 307 104 270 308 396 226 292 307 366 113 386 222 316 334 303 348 123 379 96 86 81 74 74 94 421

Dorset Torbay Inland Devon The Lizard West Penwith Atlantic Coast Inland Cornwall Culm Coast North Devon Avon Somerset 86 56 49 304 285 328 304 105 328 235 139 128 217 284 146 255 403 251 133 259 105 384 394 157 389 407 397 175 118 126 380 240 206 410 312 384 312 383 357 334 387 319 216 209 112 230 323 171 235 240 205 318 226 241 218 411 349 396

327 129 282 147 253 151 372

. . .

......

......

White Life William's Chimney Wind Wall Wogs Jack Wolfman Wall Workers' End World's Wraith Wreckers' Slab Wrist Climb West Face, The West Wing West Westerlation The Whisker, Waves Become Wings Waves Weasle Stand Wellington's Face Direct West Watching the Ocean Watching The Watchman, Warlord (Swanage) Warlord Warrior (Cheddar) Warlord Want Out Want Worlds of the Wall Street Wall Wall of Spirits Wall Walk of Life, The of Life, Walk the Moon on Walking Victims of Fashion Vietnamerica Visions of Johanna Vortices Fear of Wages the Barbarians for Waiting Vicious Delicious Zinc Oxide Mountain Zombogies Direct Zuma Vala People Van and Ann Vandal Show Variety Venusberg The Verger, Crack Vertical Vice, The Yogic Flyer Yogic Zawn Face Route Zeke's Route Zig Zag (Bosigran) Zig Zag (Haytor) Zig Zag (Sennen) Xanadu Ximenes Yardarm Edge Yellow Wall Yellow E5 E5 7b+ E6 E4 E4 7b E5 E8 E9 7a+ 7b 7b+ E5 * HVS * HS * E1 * HVD * S * 6c+ * E1 * * HVS ** HVS ** E4 ** VS ** E2 ** VS ** VS ** VS ** E2 ** 6c ** HVS ** E1 ** E2 ** 6b+ ** E1 ** E4 ** HVS ** 7a ** HVS ** VS ** VS ** VDiff ** HS ** VS ** Diff ** HVS ** E2 ** E1 ** *** HVD *** E3 *** *** *** 6b *** *** *** *** *** HS *** *** *** *** *** HVS *** *** E2 *** E2

E1 4

4 E3 68 68 75 79 96 96 96 49 96 50 59 402 226 357 205 269 128 248 254 132 386 179 105 325 322 408 384 128 414 146 193 154 394 357 403 122 385 414 358 160 160 180 133 322 307 356 368 168 313 313 407 363 306 146 396 231 264 403 222 206

342

130 321 409 145 393 264 201

......

Temple Redneck Temple II Tensor Tears of a Clown Tears Suicide Blonde Suicide Wall Sun Shadow Bloody Sunday Sunday, Lane Sunny Corner Sunshine Cracks Sunstruck Superfly Guy Supernatural Supernova Suspended Sentence Suspense Suspension Bridge Arete Suspension Flake Tatra Cakes Calling Tea Stormy Weather Stormy Stroof Magnolia Sugar Tropospheric Scatter Tropospheric with Lichen Trouble Rose Tudor Tuppence Tricky Dicky Tricky Triton Total Seizure Total Trap Tourist Free World Trad Direct Transcript Root Tree Buttress Tregagle's Crack Tregagle's Tomb, The Tomb, Tombstone Twostep Toltec Tide Rising Tide TNT Road Tobacco Up the Styx, Without.... Urizen Vagabond Thread Flintstone Threadbare Thunderball Twang Twinkletoes Tydomin Undercracker Unknown Wall Terrace Cracks Terrace Terrapin Tooth Terrier's Tessellations Thane Them Special Thin Wall Think Pink 7c+ E6 E6 E4 E5 7c+ E4 E6 7b+ 7b 7b * HVS * VS * HVS * 7a * HVS * VS * VDiff * HS * S * VS * HVS ** E2 ** HS ** VS ** HVS ** ** HVS ** E1 ** ** E3 ** ** E1 ** HVS ** S ** VS ** ** 7c+ ** ** E1 ** VS ** HVS ** E1 ** VS ** ** E3 ** E1 ** E1 *** VS *** *** E1 *** E3 *** 7a *** E5 *** HVS *** VS *** E2 *** 8b *** 6a+ *** *** *** *** E4 *** E1 *** 7b *** E3 *** E3 ***

4 VS

VS

4 VDiff

80 86 86 96 86 75 86 53 96 86 54 63 274 140 396 414 303 228 302 385 157 318 240 104 376 303 339 263 133 126 384 291 411 161 158 261 146 139 307 249 249 175 288 328 328 249 376 415 104 226 306 161 288 339 155 229 126 364

93

125 and cover

Route Index Route

.

Storms over Africa Storm Warning Spoils of War Spook, The Spreadeagle The Spy, St Gregory Worker the Wonder Staircase Stalactite Direct Stalker's Zone Star Fox Starscrape Step Across Stone Boom Stop Press Spanner Eyes Speedfreak The Spider, Spider's Web Spire, The Soft Touch Sol Solid Air Morning Some Velvet Songs from a Gentle Man Soul Sacrifice South East Buttress South East Climb South Face Direct South Ridge, The Space Tourist Smashing of Amps Smile, The Eyes Smoke Gets In Your Smooth Operator Socket Arete Socket Wall Siren's Cry Sirius Slab Route Slanting Crack Sleazy Corner Sleepwalk Slings Shot Slip It In Quick Slip Road Slip Tide Slippery Slab Slot, The Shock of the New Shock Folly Shorty's Silent Movie Silken Thread/Imperialist Simanon Direct Simian Sinister Sinner's Route Shivering Timbers Shivering E5 7c+ E4 7b E4 7c+ E6 7b+

* * HS * HVS * HVS * Diff * * 7a * Diff * * E3 * VS * S * HS * VDiff * VS * VS * HVS * Mod * VS ** VS ** E3 ** Diff ** E2 ** E2 ** 7a ** E3 ** S ** VS ** VS ** VDiff ** 6b+ ** 6a ** ** Diff ** S ** E3 ** E2 ** VS ** HVS ** HVS ** HVS ** HVS ** HS ** **

*** E1 *** 6a+ *** 7b+ *** *** HVS *** E3 *** VDiff *** E1 *** 5 ***

4 E1 4 VS

S

422 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Route Index 423 Avon Somerset Avon North Devon Culm Coast Culm Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast Atlantic West Penwith West The Lizard The Inland Devon Torbay Dorset Climbers running together the two pitches of Sennen's most celebrated climb, Demo Route (HS 4b) - page 227 - Photo Duncan Skelton/Offwidth Images 18 18 12 14 32 38 26 20 26 374 390 418 Swanage M4 London Cover Flap Cover Cover Flap Cover Flap Cover Cover Flap Cover Bournemouth A303 Bath M5 Manchester Glasgow A37 A35 Bristol Portland ...... Dorset ...... Dublin M4 M5 ...... Walls Top 50 Top Key Topo Ropes ...... Index Route Shops Key Symbol Tides Rockfax Books...... Rockfax Loose Rock Map Key Mobile Phones...... Pubs Logistics...... 360 344 354 360 Cardiff 8 3 6 4 . . . . . Swanage ...... Portland 76 10 44 78 70 84 72 16 14 24 20 30 34 28 26 30 38 310 314 324 300 320 326 330 ...... 92 . . . . . Torbay 102 Exmoor ...... A361 National Park National A38 ...... Berry Head ...... Daddyhole . Long Quarry Point Anstey's Cove Anstey's A377 ...... Dartmoor ...... Plymouth Barnstaple National Park National ...... Avon and Somerset Avon Avon Gorge Avon ...... Down Brean Cheddar Gorge QuarryPortishead . . . . Quarry Split Rock Uphill 286 282 ...... North Devon . . . . . A39 Inland Devon and DartmoorInlandDevon Bench Tor Chudleigh Haytor Hound Tor Sheeps Tor The Dewerstone Quarry Torbryan ...... Accommodation Acknowledgements ...... Advertisers ...... Cafes ...... Codes Colour Contents ...... Table Crag Emergencies Gear...... Fixed Gear...... Table Grade List Graded Guidebooks...... Introduction ...... Access Lundy ...... Point Baggy ...... Lundy ...... Bodmin The Lizard The 198 194 188 194 188 242 256 272 252 266 220 224 232 238 266 266 272 272 266 242 Lizard Point Lizard Head Trewavas 110 114 114 130 144 124 124 136 130 120 152 159 158 ...... General Index and Area Map Area and Index General 176 170 172 166 A394 ......

......

......

West Penwith West Culm Coast Culm Penzance

Inland Cornwall ...... Levens

...... Loy

Atlantic Coast Atlantic ...... Bosigran Carn Gloose ...... Carn les Boel ...... Chair Ladder Cribba ...... Head ...... Promontory Fox Gurnard's Head Area Hella Point Kenidjack . Point Doyden Head Pentire Tintagel Carn Gowla Vicarage ...... Rock Roche . . . . Jump The Devil's Lands End Sennen ...... St . Cheesewring QuarryCheesewring ...... Cornakey ...... Dyer's ...... Gull Rock SharpnoseLower Oldwalls' Point Screda Smoothlands Pordenack Porthgwarra Rocks Robin's St . Du Tater ...... West Vessacks Kellys Zawn ...... Zennor Cliff ...... Blackchurch Point Compass 424 Avon Somerset North Devon Culm Coast Inland Cornwall Atlantic Coast West Penwith The Lizard Inland Devon Torbay Dorset