VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
APRIL 2020 WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Venice, the new Renaissance A selection of the best destinations devoted to beauty and fine dining
ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE
ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
吃喝玩乐 尽在这里
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® DISCOVER WELCOME TO ITALY
www.where-venice.com Dear Reader, PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. as things presently stand, it is very difficult T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] being the publisher of the leading incoming www.where-venice.com information brand in Italy. We need to decide PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach how best to behave at this time. During our [email protected] lifetime, we have never been at war with an COO Andrea Jarach Pierfrancesco Coreno Publisher [email protected] invisible enemy like the Corona Virus. The Italian Where® MANAGING EDITOR health system has responded in the best possible Alessandra Finzi [email protected] way to protect the safety and health of its citizens and visitors. CONTRIBUTORS Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, However, the measures enforced by the government have inevitably Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, created a countrywide shutdown. In addition, the media around the Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli world is highlighting the fact that Italy is one of the centres of the ICONOGRAPHY ENJOY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock disease. While writing this editorial, I noticed how we have passed CARTOGRAPHY from an abundance of tourists to empty spaces. But we are trying City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub to keep calm, and not give into panic. © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 We have decided to continue our mission to supply updated and MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, complete information that will be useful for the tourists who have Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni [email protected] decided to visit Italy over the next few months. We know that the hotel ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto industry has suffered a huge blow - our Hotel Relations Manager is in [email protected] daily contact with more than 400 hotels, who are our main partners. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR We have therefore decided to provide our website with the City Guide Paola Grilli [email protected] this month! And, we believe that Italy, as a whole, will benefit from our
HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER maps and digital information network. We thank you, our reader, Maria Granata [email protected] for believing in Italy. The tourist industry of the most beautiful country
CUSTOMER SERVICES in the world will survive the virus. You’ll find suggestions on the Cristina Garbini [email protected] following pages for the best shopping and dining in our major cities.
REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 Let us all try to support tourism, while staying safe and well. DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA In the meantime, we are grateful to the hotels that will keep their LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright doors open, to the tourist services that will operate despite the crisis, credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. and to the advertisers, who have decided to support us with their
Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any investments in spite of the situation. consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. We wish all of them the best: buona fortuna! EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. The Publisher VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION
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MORE ON Top in town PAGE 10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE 1 2 3 4 This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art.
LIDO DI VENEZIA 4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ALEXANTON / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
© © The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing 155 6 the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 2
THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings
OLGA GAVRILOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant © © of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. BASILICA DI SAN MARCO CANAL GRANDE name derives are not those of lovers, but those pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO This is the most important catholic church Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were to facilitate access to the popular Rialto A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps THE ISLANDS in the city. The original church dates back street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is from Campo San Manin: a combination of Although the whole of Venice lies on an to before the year 1000, while its famous waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 lined on both sides by shops. It includes as Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of generally means a half-day cruise on a boat and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. hotels and other public buildings, it offers a TEATRO LA FENICE history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Inside, a triumphant array of domes and journey back into history, evoking the pomp Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored spectacular when seen from the water, perforated like lace. The architectural beauty Burano, three charming, small islands, rich transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. to its former splendour (the last time was perhaps aboard a gondola. 3 of the stairwell, combined with the view that in history and tradition. Murano is famous numerous other treasures. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well throughout the world for its hand-blown where the Grand Canal empties into the been Venice's principal stage for world-class GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA worth a visit. glass (artisanal workshops still display PALAZZO DUCALE lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its They host the most important collection of glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository harbour stands at an important point. Today high point came in the 19th century when Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE of the lagoon, once a thriving town with of innumerable art treasures, it features a it hosts important collective or monographic it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can DI SAN ROCCO 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island number of different and intricate architectural exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, A Renaissance complex consisting of a church with only 17 permanent residents and two and ornamental details, dating from the 9th Collection. 6 associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of medieval churches that speak poignantly century. Formerly the residence and also a stunning feat of architecture. and Tiepolo and works by several important devotion to San Rocco who was called upon of past glories. Burano is one of the most government centre of the Doge sit not only PONTE DEI SOSPIRI landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto to protect the plague-stricken population of photographed sights in the world, thanks houses temporary exhibitions but can also be A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di PONTE DI RIALTO and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting Venice during the 15th century. The interiors to colourful houses reflected in its canals. visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale This is the oldest and most beautiful of the these works occupies the ancient church are filled with numerous treasures, including It is also famous for its artisanal lace work access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex an impressive number of works by Tintoretto and a particular kind of biscuit, which also by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its Originally built during medieval times as a designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. resembles lace. 5
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ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE
JANUARY May-November 6 September THE BIENNALE REGATA STORICA / HISTORIC REGATTA 1 January The Biennale kicks off with a mega event One of Venice’s foremost rowing NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERT GIFT dedicated to art (odd-numbered years) and competitions, it is preceded by a AT LA FENICE architecture (even-numbered years). Running spectacular parade of historic 16th ▲ GUCCI Traditional concert at the Gran Teatro alongside the two main events at the Giardini century craft. This men’s leather belt, La Fenice. The concert is broadcasted live and and the Arsenale, are city-wide exhibitions, designed to be worn at the followed by audiences from all over Italy. events and installations. The Dance (June), GUIDE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER waist or around the hips, is Theatre (July-August), Film (August- Take advantage of a stroll defined by a Double G silver September) and Music (September-October) HOMO FABER. CRAFTING A MORE through the picturesque Biennali take place from May to November. HUMAN FUTURE brass buckle with a shiny ▲ CHANEL (10 September - 11 October 2020) “calli” of Venice to treat finish inspired by an archival A solid fragrance in a unique format. VOGALONGA A bi-annual showcase of the finest European yourself to some alluring design from the 1970s. The four “Chance” Perfume Pencils,
PH © MICHELE CROSERA A 30 km rowing marathon from the craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio ® www.gucci.com featured in a discovery set, offer a Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful detail of style. Where Cini (Island of San Giorgio Maggiore). new way to tempt fate. The ideal event open to both professionals and brings you a pick of the on-the-go solution for use at any amateurs. best seasonal trends time of day. www.chanel.com
JUNE PH © HERMES dedicated to colour and SALONE NAUTICO VENEZIA light-heartedness! NEW YEAR'S EVE AT LA FENICE An open-air boat show staged at the 6 January Arsenale, the world’s most historic REGATA DELLE BEFANE dockyards in the heart of the ‘Serenissima’. ▼ CA' MACANA Venice celebrates Epiphany with a fun- The decoration of this “Colombina Rosy 2” filled regatta, complete with a fleet of JULY eye mask combines the warm tones of men dressed as Father Christmases and Third Sunday of July antique pink, red, and violet with gold leaf. ▲ NARDI Befane (witches). The procession leaves FESTA DEL REDENTORE / FEAST OF THE Different areas are outlined by a raised In Nardi’s beautifully crafted from the Grand Canal, loops around the REDEEMER HOMO FABER golden stucco. A perfect item if you’re jewelry, diamonds often converse ‘paleto’ (a stake in the water), and returns A parade of boats in the Giudecca canal, looking for an effective disguise that is not to the Rialto Bridge. plus a dazzling fireworks display on OCTOBER with semi-precious stones or too flashy. www.camacana.com ▲ BORSALINO innovatively-shaped metals. These Saturday evening. End of October The “Panama Quito Sophie FEBRUARY VENICEMARATHON “Mosaico” earrings in pink gold set Pattern” in two-tone hand- VENICE CARNIVAL SEPTEMBER One of the most unique 42K road races with amethysts and cabochon cut in the world. It leaves from Villa Pisani woven Ecuadorian straw tells garnets are an exquisite example Shows, masked parades and music in End of August/beginning of September (Brenta Riviera) and ends in Venice. the younger generations about of the brand’s classic contemporary ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF the 1980s, a decade buzzing world’s most thrilling open-air costume CINEMATOGRAPHIC ART designs. www.nardi-venezia.com with creativity reinterpreted extravaganzas. The next edition will be The Venice International Film Festival is NOVEMBER 2020 held from Saturday 30 January 2021 to through the archives of the organized by La Biennale and runs at the 21 November Tuesday 16 February 2021 (Il Ballo del Lido di Venezia. Founded in 1932, it is the FESTA DELLA SALUTE Italian company. Doge® on Saturday 13 February). oldest film festival in the world. A religious festival dedicated to the www.borsalino.com Madonna della Salute, whose namesake THE VENICE GLASS WEEK APRIL church is located at Punta della Dogana, The most important international festival ▼ GIORGIO ARMANI and connected to Santa Maria del Giglio VENICE NIGHT TRAIL dedicated to glass art. Highlights include These pumps in woven satin combine via a temporary wooden pontoon bridge A 16km competitive night marathon that exhibitions, conferences, performances, elegance and sensuality in a shoe that set up over the Grand Canal. crosses through the centre of Venice. workshops, themed dinners and guided responds to the every requirement of 25 April tours, plus a slew of other events. End of November today’s modern woman. Crafted in woven FESTA DI SAN MARCO/ TEATRO LA FENICE NEW SEASON satin, they have a matching strap and FEAST OF ST. MARK Launch of the new season at Venice’s profile. Available in red or powder pink. In addition to being a national holiday, on ancient opera house. The new calendar www.armani.com ► EMILIO PUCCI this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, generally opens with an Italian opera. The coloured prints by the the patron saint of the city. historic Florentine fashion
PH © NICOLA NUNZIATA DECEMBER 2020 house are continuously MAY CHRISTMAS CONCERT imbued with new, FESTA DELLA SENSA AT ST. MARK’S BASILICA colourful patterns. This AND SPOSALIZIO DEL MARE The traditional Christmas Concert of the leather and printed straw Celebrations include regattas, a water- Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, featuring bag features a triumph borne pageant and the Sposalizio del the Choir of the Marciana Chapel, is of colours and geometric Mare (Marriage of the Sea). The event is staged under the magnificent golden shapes that interpret THE VENICE GLASS WEEK mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica. held on Ascension weekend. the spirit of spring to perfection. www.pucci.com
4 WHERE VENICE I APRIL 2020 WHERE NOW | UNIQUE
All about the gondola
− Everyone knows that the gondola is oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of – or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Venice’s most typical craft: made from different wood are used to build a gondola Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year 8 different types of wood, gondolas are – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ mahogany. The only parts in metal are the requirements and obtain a license. by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who − It’s not easy to become a professional operating today in Venice is located in the have been in this line of work since the − gondolier. Requirements include attending a sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso 11th century. special school, passing a public competition (see photo), between the Accademia and the − Private gondolas no longer exist and set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ the last person who owned one was art apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 resembles a typical mountain chalet because, heiress Peggy Guggenheim. to 12 months. The final step includes passing traditionally, gondola builders came from the a rigorous practical exam. Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its − Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 construction, the gondola is lowered into metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is − Traditionally, only men were allowed to the water via a slide – a celebratory moment made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized be gondoliers. The first female gondolier (www.squerosantrovaso.com). PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PH © JAVARMAN
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of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli The allure of the region restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers Half an hour by train from Venice street food par excellence. Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart One hour by train from Venice experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot Vicenza: its main square houses the famous to stop and enjoy either a local Prosecco- alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most based aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO important architect of the High Renaissance. neighbouring streets are packed with elegant The entire life of the city revolves around shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s ROSSHELEN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance ©
Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina Trieste, Castle of Miramare PH marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a museum host important art exhibitions. While ticket to one of the many live shows performed in the area, make sure to sample radicchio here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla codfish) served with polenta. The people of Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping sandwich. the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a Padua: home to one of the oldest universities codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to enjoys creating innovative dishes using this do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, important ingredient of Veneto cuisine. Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous
Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 EQROY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed © Bassano del Grappa by Padua’s University medical faculty to study
PH lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms include the Arena, an architectural remnant CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM BELOVA CATARINA
of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s ©
annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Verona PH Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa castle – whose interior décor has remained you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of treated to a tasting session, accompanied by ride on the Opicina tram which connects the Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, in the hills above is definitely unmissable. make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters the city’s signature sweet treats made from selection of local wines, the venue also features on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes almonds and walnuts. an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is can taste historical brands dating from the late the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town 1800s to the early 1900s. also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city Villa del Palladio, Vicenza lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian Two hours by train from Venice coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY, ART AND NATURE covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta Trieste: the port and its architecture, to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also reminiscent of central European cities, blend to Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other Padua, Scrovegni Chapel The monumental Villa Cornaro in Piombino Dese, near Padua, is one of the several that took place during World War I. While in the stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features works by Andrea Palladio (1551-52). area, make sure to book a guided tour of one to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste.
8 WHERE VENICE I APRIL 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 9 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Peggy Guggenheim Collection Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are NEW YORK. © SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am- Located on the left-hand side of the of art, it is considered one of the most 4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Grand Canal, just beyond the Church important museums in Europe. The Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4 of the Madonna della Salute, you will collection includes masterpieces of come across a building that seems Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known strange and unfinished, but is also American Abstract Surrealism and to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Expressionism, as well as works by of the house) because it dominates the city, Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, observing everything that lies below it. Resting prominent and powerful Venier family, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, was originally planned to become one of hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. www.guggenheim-venice.it modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it Construction of the palazzo began in or Memories of the ancient Rome unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going around 1748, but was halted after only one up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over floor was completed. Undeterred by its In the Castello sestiere, on Ruga Giuffa, you can visit a truly unique ‘palazzo’ whose interior the city. Although admission is not free, it is often is reminiscent of the splendours of ancient Rome. included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric (San Marco stop). Map F4 American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, uilt in the 16th century by members of a Domus Aurea and mythological scenes frescoed >> www.palazzogrimani.org a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and Canal Grande (Grand Canal) noble Venetian family, Palazzo Grimani on the walls. The palace’s most admired space, Castello, 4858 (Ramo Grimani) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in men, fell in love with it. She purchased Bis a testament to its owners’ passion for the Tribuna, has niches where the Grimani’s the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in archaeology. The Grimanis built the palace to collection of ancient sculptures used to stand. of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides with her collection of contemporary by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, house their collection of more than 150 ancient It was something of a wonder room that was art, subsequently opening both the hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a statues, creating a place that harkens back to flooded with light from a central lantern. journey back into history, evoking the pomp palazzo and her extraordinary collection the time of ancient Rome. For this reason, the Until May 2021, the must-visit exhibition ‘Domus and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her ‘palazzo’ differs from the typical architectural Grimani 1594-2019. La collezione di sculture centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection style of Venetian residences, even boasting a classiche a palazzo dopo quattro secoli’ and workshop events, religious processions, capital was bequeathed to the Solomon R. executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Roman-style courtyard. The Grimani family, celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Guggenheim Foundation, which also Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours whose ancestors include a Doge and a bishop Grimani of the collection of classic statues and to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in accused of heresy, hired the best artists of furnishings that belonged to Giovanni Grimani, of this experience, but because it offers several New York and the Guggenheim Museum the period to build their ‘home’ and create the Patriarch of Aquileia. The exhibition takes of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but a unique masterpiece inspired by ancient visitors through a series of rooms (the Camaron was officially converted into a museum. for more information you can visit the www. PEGGY GUGGENHEIM IN HER GONDOLA, 1968. Rome. Its decorated ceilings recall the frescoes d'Oro, the Sala a Fogliami and the Antitribuna) to canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions Today, thanks to its 20th century collection PHOTO TONY VACCARO / TONY VACCARO ARCHIVES of domus romana: grotesques inspired by those the Tribuna, created to host more than 130 of the and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or unearthed in the 16th century at Rome’s famous collection’s most important sculptures. ask your concierge.
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Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) Scala Contarini del Bovolo have been preserved intact. The drama builds A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree Known throughout the world, this square is the This is the oldest and most beautiful of Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion stating that the Jewish population should move heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. building. However, what makes it such a popular ceiling features nine exceptional canvases to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the to a specific part of the city, where they could It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, painted by the brotherhood’s most famous plague-stricken population of Venice during the be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous move to this, then, remote northwestern corner metres in length, it faces directly onto the water more spectacular when seen from the water, stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. treasures, including an impressive number of of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th- and is surrounded by several magnificent stately perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change for "foundry," a word that would soon be used one of the most widely-photographed places in the the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am- line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 throughout Europe and the world to depict an world. The best thing to do here is to look around to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of 1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto area where isolated minority groups lived. The and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, Teatro La Fenice line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see between upward and downward slopes, it Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). its former splendour (the last time was between Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 Map E4 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio principal stage for world-class opera, music, according to popular belief, is named after a it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Scuola Grande dei Carmini theater, and ballet. However, its high point came statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto YOURYOUR TRAVELING TRAVELING COMPANIONCOMPANION SINCE 1936® miraculous powers. It contains a significant number 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2 lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4 San Giorgio Maggiore of an ancient brotherhood and all its original of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Boasting a monastery and® an adjoining museum WELCOMEWELCOME TO VENICE also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, (Casinò di Venezia) whereMaggiore sitsMAGAZINE on the little islandVenice of San Giorgio Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by dating back to before the year 1000. This church Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the www.where-venice.comwww.where-venice.com can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS destination, for aristocratic travelers from both Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one WHERE ITALIA SRL 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.madonnadellorto. andWHERE the ITALIA entire SRL complex, which holds a number East and West, Venice was the first city in the world of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from ViaVia Ezio Ezio Biondi, Biondi, 1.1. 2015420154 Milano. A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today which its name derives are not those of lovers, but T:T: 02 02 349951 349951 -- FaxFax 0202 3310701533107015 lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2 [email protected]@where-venice.com This small island, that is a part of the it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit. its old-world ambience continues to play host to those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they www.where-venice.companoramawww.where-venice.com that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's Ghetto di Venezia several of the world’s most classical games. The were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on PUBLISHERsquare,PUBLISHER is AND separatedAND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF from the Giudecca by the Although documentation chronicles the presence casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- AndrealagoonAndrea Jarach islandJarach of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio of a Jewish community in Venice from before proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. 7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, ([email protected])([email protected]) Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 due to political unrest in Europe and a significant lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3 lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 EDITORIALEDITORIAL (PROEDI(PROEDI COMUNICAZIONECOMUNICAZIONE SRL)SRL) 01 DRESS Santa Maria della Salute It is forbidden to walk around MANAGING DIRECTOR MANAGINGGenerally DIRECTORreferred to as “La Salute,” this crown Venice in a bathing costume or DanielejewelDaniele of Misrachi Misrachi17th-century baroque architecture bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s EDITORIALproudlyEDITORIAL stands COORDINATION COORDINATION at a commercially and aesthetically AlessandraimportantAlessandra Finzi point,Finzi ([email protected])([email protected]) almost directly opposite the STREET RULES 02 canals is prohibited. The Lido is the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal go-to place for bathing. Venice is an MAGAZINEMAGAZINE EDITORIAL EDITORIAL STAFFSTAFF Carey Bernitz, Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice ElenaemptiesElena Binda, Binda, into Romena Romena the lagoon. Brugnerotto,Brugnerotto Designed (tourist by Longhena, advisor, elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain Simonawhosewww.rominvenice.com), workP.K. Daviddi, was influenced Elena Simona Peverata, by Palladio, P.K. Stefania Daviddi, it Vida are narrow. Keep to the right and dress code is ‘de rigueur’. wasElena constructed Peverata, Stefania to honor Vida the Virgin Mary for avoid loitering. Make sure to take Where you want, when you want. MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges JoydeliveringMAGAZINE Lacanlale ARTVenice DIRECTION from the Elisabetta plague Giudici, of 1630. On 21Joy November Lacanlale each year, a popular religious especially when they’re crowded. 03 OBSTRUCTING WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), PUBLIC TRANSPORT celebration,WEB EDITORIAL marking STAFF Chiara the official Fonzi (coordination),end of the FabioBlack LanciniDeath, is(art held direction), here. The Giulia church Minero is also (editor) When travelling on public [email protected] Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) [email protected] for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am- transport, please respect the other ICONOGRAPHY12noon/3pm-5.30pm. Archivio Where®www.basilicasalutevenezia. Italia, Dreamstime, Valdobbiadene Tour ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock passengers: avoid blocking the Shutterstockit. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. ACQUA ALTA 04 entrance or exit, store your bags VaporettoCARTOGRAPHY line CITY 1 (Salute MAP: ©stop). Where Map Italia E5 srl. - 2017 - Recently listed as a UNESCO CARTOGRAPHYOriginal Map byCITY Urban MAP: File© Where - www.urbanfile.org Italia srl. - 2017 - In the event of ‘acqua alta’ where the boat staff tells you OriginalFast Trains Map Network by Urban Map File by - Dmitrywww.urbanfile.org Goloub (fl ooding), use the raised and remove your backpacks. world heritage site, this FastSanta Trains Maria Network Gloriosa Map by Dmitrydei Frari Goloub walkways provided. Keep to KnownMARKETING by the & ADVERTISING Venetians simply Sieva Carolo,as ‘i Frari’, this region hosts the famous MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, landmarkIsa Faleschini, features Marta 17 Mailhac, monumental Rachele altars Renna, and the right and don’t hang IsaPaola Faleschini, Zannoni Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, 05 BIKES AND OTHERS Prosecco vineyards and Paolais the Zannoni largest church (coordination in the city. Welcome This medieval to Italy ) around. Don’t step into MEANS OF grapes used to make churchPRODUCTION in Gothic-Venetian & CIRCULATION, style, SALES houses, SUPPORT in the water, because it’s dirty. TRANSPORTATION PRODUCTIONadditionCOORDINATOR to two & PaolaCIRCULATION, paintings Grilli by SALES Titian, SUPPORT the tombs COORDINATOR Paola Grilli In Venice, adults are prohibited Prosecco wine. This and funerary monuments of numerous famous ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto from riding bikes or using excursion is recommended ADMINISTRATIONpeople, including Katia Titian, Greto Monteverdi and Canova. EATING chorusvenezia.org.LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Campo Traine dei Frari. (T: 340 T: 3026288)041 06 or carrying kick scooters. LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) for lovers of food and wine Apart from restaurants, Use the parking lots located 2750462.HOTEL RELATION Vaporetto MANAGER line 1, Maria 2, N Granata(San Tomà stop). and includes a tour of a HOTELMap([email protected]) D4RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata picknicking is forbidden in the at the entrance to the city. ([email protected]) area around St. Mark’s Basilica. local winery with a wine SantiCUSTOMER Giovanni SERVICES Cristinae Paolo Garbini, Silvia Maggi CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina Website www.where-venice.com tasting session. OneREG. TRIB. of MILANO the city’s No. 174, 28most JUNE 2016 important examples VENETIAN SenatoreWHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 features a list of the best 07 ofDIRETTORE medieval RESPONSABILE: architecture, ANDREA JARACH Santi Giovanni e SOUVENIR REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 restaurants and ‘bacari’ where WHEREPaoloPRINTED® ITALIA BYis GRAPHICSCALVE considered SRL, ISCRITTO AL SPA ROCthe N oPantheon. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBREof Venice 2010 In the midst of its myriad offerings, LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) you can sample delectable DIRETTOREbecause RESPONSABILE: all the Venetian ANDREA JARACH doges, starting from always make sure to purchase PRINTEDtheAlthough 13th BY the GRAPHICSCALVE publishercentury, has madeare SPA everyburied effort here,to include together copyright credits, with in Mediterranean cuisine. Please LOCALITÀthe event PONTE of there FORMELLO, being any errors,1/3/4 24020 oversights VILMINORE or omissions, DI SCALVE we would (BG) like to authentic Venetian goods. These TRANSFER SERVICE: Maserati NCC - Venice - Padua numerousapologize to the copyrightother notableholders in question personages. whose names willwww. be published Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ Althoughin the next the issue. publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in include Murano beads, local VENICE PORT, VCE TSF AIRPORT, thebasilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, Campo we Santiwould like to before lunch and cappuccino Book now www.maseratincc.it apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. TRAIN STATIONS... inGiovanniIN the ITALY next issue. Where® e Paolo is (Pleasealso published note: this in siteMilan might by be is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon. Call us +39 041 5631589 markedWhere® inItalia, Venetian in Rome dialect by Tourist as ‘san Media ZaniPolo’ srl on By purchasing items from local and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl WHERE YOU WANT, WHEN YOU WANT! INthe ITALY city’s Where® maps). is T: also 041 published 5235913. Vaporetto in Milan by line 5.1 artisans, you’re supporting the Where®(Fondamente Italia, in Nove Rome stop, by TouristOspedale Media Civile srl stop). Venetian craft industry. andEXCLUSIVE in Naples GIFT by IESFROM Comunicazione TOP HOTELS srl MapWHERE® F3VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. EXCLUSIVEWHERE® VENICE IS GIFTAVAILABLE FROM ONLY IN TOPTHE ROOMS HOTELS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. 12 WHERE VENICE I APRIL 2020 WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI www.wheretraveler.com 13 VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. 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heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto EVENTS SCHEDULED teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San layout. Its establishment represented an important in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th- LA FENICE www.teatrolafenice.it AT THE TIME Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to OF GOING OPERA HOUSE TO PRESS (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4 above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di commemorate the tragedy of the Second World 2 0 0 M 0 2 and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am- San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in A R C H 2 The islands 5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6 the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Although the whole of Venice lies on an Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 three charming, small islands, rich in history and were instituted as an educational adjunct to (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2 tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still MUSEUMS & important collection of Venetian and Veneto Palazzo Ducale display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace EXHIBITION SITES artworks dated between the 14th and 18th A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, the Ducal Palace features a number of different only 17 permanent residents and two medieval Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by architectural and ornamental details, dating churches that speak poignantly of past glories, of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 several important landscape artists including from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and Burano, one of the most photographed sights by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental and government centre of the Doges, it not only in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international complex hosting these works occupies the ancient houses temporary exhibitions but can also be
in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal centre of cultural activities. The Foundation church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors MICHELE CROSERA lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which is housed in the monumental complex of the Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. PH © for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del love these islands, and there may be a risk of not and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council ■ OPERA Sara Mingardo, alto – Piccoli Cantori finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46 of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms 4, 5 April Veneziani Children Choir Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights “Carmen” by Georges Bizet Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus who also designed its refectory, the church of San on this route include the prisons and loggias Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto Myung-Whun Chung, conductor master The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5 overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open Calixto Bieito, director this stunning building, to which hardly any in addition to numerous other treasures, the daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 complex hosts an impressive collection of Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus 18 April masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 master “David Helbock – Playing John on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Williams” (Veneto Jazz) at the museum are arranged in chronological 23, 26, 29 April and 2, 6, 8, 19, 21, 23, David Helbock, solopiano Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana order: in addition to the archaeological section 27, 29, 31 May Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd “Rigoletto” by Giuseppe Verdi 26 April at Sale Apollinee centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Daniele Callegari, conductor “Sunday Aperitif Concert” by range of historical objet d’art made from Murano Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the glass, including important pieces produced former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two Damiano Michieletto, director Benjamin Britten, Ralph Vaughan between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. contemporary art museums funded by the Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus Williams Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass François Pinault Foundation. They host important master Claudio Marino Moretti, piano Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring Mariateresa Bonera, mezzo-soprano visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. works from the Pinault Collection, one of the 30 April and 3, 5, 7, 9 May at Lucia Raicevich, soprano T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 world’s largest collections of contemporary Malibran Theatre Enrico Masiero, tenor (Museo Murano stop). Off Map art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to “Farnace” by Antonio Vivaldi the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed Diego Fasolis, conductor ■ MUSIKàMERA Museo di San Marco calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, of an international scope. Open daily 10am- Christophe Gayral, director 9 April will take you from the historic area above the 7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus “Massimo Quarta and Maddalena atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo master Giacopuzzi” by Johann Sebastian Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Diana D’Alessio, Piccoli Cantori Bach, Claude Debussy, Cesar Franck extensive themes that are a part of the heritage Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Veneziani chorus master Massimo Quarta, violin of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 Maddalena Giacopuzzi, piano are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della ■ CONCERT and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute PH © LUCA CERVESATO 7 April at Sale Apollinee 15, 16 April at Sale Apollinee The tour takes visitors through various areas of stop). Map F5 the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire “Quattro secoli di musica a Venezia” “Homero Francesch” by Johannes that is respectful of the religious nature of the Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di by Giovanni Gabrieli, Antonio Vivaldi, Brahms, Franz Schubert A green oasis in San Marco Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Ermanno Wolf-Ferrari, Bruno Maderna, Homero Francesch, piano Commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 as a green space lying adjacent to the Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became Claudio Ambrosini, Stefano Bassanese the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Procuratie Nuove and later embellished with greenhouses and neoclassical buildings, the ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco Ex Novo Ensemble 28 April at Sale Apollinee 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various “Ensemble Aurora” by Giuseppe Royal Gardens have been one of the three public parks located near St. Mark’s Square since Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian 10, 11 April Tartini, Antonio Vandini 1920. The recent restoration enriched the park’s geometric structure with tall trees, shrubs, aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria “Myung-Whun Chung conduct Enrico Gatti, violin herbaceous and bulbous plants and creepers, planted to interact with the ecosystem of the stop). Map F4 The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section Mahler” by Gustav Mahler Gaetano Nasillo, cello Lagoon and to provide the city with a green lung. The gardens feature a 90-meter pergola Museo Ebraico di Venezia dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Guido Morini, harpsichord which has retained its original shape in cast iron without a roof, a drawbridge to connect the JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; and paintings have been integrated with a number gardens to the Procuratie and a large glass greenhouse. Located on the opposite side of the a highly unusual urban complex that includes the of works originating from the warehouses of latter is another small greenhouse consisting of a central pavilion based on a circular plan museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations connected to the ancient Cafehaus and to two other structures, one of which, The Human ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas collection of artifacts related to the long history March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December Garden, will be used for exhibitions and artistic events. exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. www.venicegardensfoundation.org (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com area’s five historic synagogues, located between Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
14 WHERE VENICE I APRIL 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
W The Guidelines CLOTHING M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C MEN & WOMEN E T R R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Al Duca d'Aosta Tax Free Originally established in Venice in 1902, MAP LOCATIONS - Note that references in Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities Refund Guide bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, to the coordinates on the street maps on pages Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four- 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods 30-31. storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion and services, and is part of the European Union’s TRANSPORT - References to vaporetto lines brands for men and women, carefully selected value added tax system. and stops are based on departure from the to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Santa Lucia railway station. include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, VAT refund sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and . This refund does not cover the services SHOPPING - This directory, grouped women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. by category, is a list of establishments of the latest collections, including small leather 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: recommended by the editors of Where goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan • you are a non EU resident; magazine and includes regular advertisers. aesthetic. The store offers numerous special • the goods purchased are intended for personal or Based on statistical evidence, the most facilities and services for its customers, including a family use only and are carried in your luggage; popular luxury brands are grouped under Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. the separate category “Top Brands”, which Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds be found on page 21. Sevelar unusual shops, www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 154,94 Euro (VAT included); stocking items and rarities for collectors or 5220733. Vaporetto line 1(Rialto stop). Map F4 • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice aficionados in specific product categories, are should include a description of the goods purchased, listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than Pot-Pourrì your personal information as well as the details of in the standard shopping sections. Shopping Three exclusive boutiques set against the hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria your passport or any other equivalent document; centrally located shops still take the traditional in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal third month after the month that you bought them; (except those located in central Venice) and on Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of • several specific customs formalities are Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair complied with; Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer generally included in the price of goods. handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques within four months after the purchase was made. also stock a selection of accessories and 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must TAX-FREE SHOPPING homeware. Private boat landing stage. Open Mon be shown at the customs exit point when leaving By law, non-EU residents are entitled to » 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm- EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs and exported from the EU: before finalizing Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) BEFORE checking in). a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei 5. return whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, After leaving EU territory, the traveller must 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the DINING 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop. Map E4 customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Reservations for most restaurants are must be returned within four months from the date strongly advised. In Italy, service is included DEPARTMENT STORES when the document was issued. in the price meaning that although 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some The recently renovated 16th century building Suspended between fantasy and reality menus include the word “coperto”, a small that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax At Il Sogno di Valentina, a women’s boutique dedicated to all things Made in Italy, creations by young surcharge corresponding to the cost of the food and cultural destination. Surrounding a Free” sign in its window). service and bread. Although no dress code central courtyard, the store offers the best in 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer emerging artists, shoes and leather accessories take centre stage. By Giulia Minero exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually leading Italian and international fashion brands, immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and considered de rigueur at restaurants. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating All restaurants and bars are non-smoking spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially the passenger from having to return the invoice to n the heart of Dorsoduro, just steps from the Women of all ages who enjoy enhancing their unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at Ponte dell’Accademia, Valentina De Faveri’s outfits with unconventional accessories can opt person and usually refer to a 3-course meal the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In major international airports or main border crossings. Idream came true when she opened her for a selection of high-quality shoes featuring (beverages excluded). partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will Most major department stores have Tax Free boutique/salotto offering selected collections classic or elegant lines, as well as the latest € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when Refund offices. the payment is made by credit card, the first of this of clothing and accessories by young, emerging collections signed by Gabs. This is an Italian €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www. designers. Valentina De Faveri worked for several company, renowned for their contemporary, the payment of a small administrative sum which SIGHTSEEING TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi well-known Italian designer labels, but for the youthful design, and produces bags with directly deducted Information about our selection of museums (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or is from the amount of VAT Il Sogno di Valentina, her first boutique in the futuristic colours, interpreted in diverse shapes and monuments is checked as carefully 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 refunded to the traveller. lagoon city, she chose a no-logo approach, using exclusively Italian leathers. If you need as possible. However, opening hours and 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund opting instead for the creativity and excellence some inspiration, don’t worry! Valentina is always site accessibility are subject to change FASHION OUTLETS within a reasonable period of time, he or she depending on the time of the year. of Made in Italy. At her informal but beautifully available to help you find a solution that best- should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the Ask your concierge. Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet curated space, featuring exposed beams, suits you, perhaps over a drink or a cup of coffee? With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, aforementioned companies. 10. minimalist furnishings and pastel colours, All details are correct at the time of going visitors can find their favourite labels with price However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded to press but several details can change: directly by customs offices. women seeking style tips or a seasonal trend to >> Il Sogno di Valentina reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further ask your concierge to double-check all discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. customize their look, can choose from among Dorsoduro, 1053/c (Calle Gambara) Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund information. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, either various alternate types of clothing, or T: 347 9512575. Map D5 Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to clothing designed by emerging designers. www.facebook.com/ilsognodivalentina sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and
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Chiesa di Santa Fosca