Hair%Care%Products:%Shampoos%And%Conditioners%

HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS%by%Susan%Barclay%Nichols% 1%

HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS:%SHAMPOOS%AND%CONDITIONERS%

Table&of&Contents& INTRODUCTION%TO%HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS% 7%

CHEMISTRY&OF&OUR&HAIR& CHEMISTRY%OF%OUR%HAIR% 8% FOLLICLE%AND%GROWTH%CYCLES% 11% VIRGIN%HAIR% 13% DEFINITION%OF%“GOOD%CONDITION”% 14% HOW%IS%HAIR%DAMAGED?% 16% FRICTION( 16% TENSION( 16% CHANGING(THE(CHEMISTRY(OF(YOUR(HAIR( 16% CHEMICAL%PROCESSING% 17% MECHANICAL%PROCESSING% 18% SIDE%NOTE%ON%SEBUM% 19% A%SIDE%NOTE%–%WHY%DOES%OUR%HAIR%GO%GREY?% 21% AFRICAN%HAIR%TYPES% 22% FINE%HAIR% 24% DANDRUFF%PRONE%HAIR% 25% WHY%COLD%PROCESS%SOAP%DOES%NOT%WORK%AS%A%SHAMPOO% 26% HOW%SHAMPOO%WORKS!% 27% What(are(the(goals(of(a(shampoo?( 28% FORMULATING%A%REGULAR%SHAMPOO% 29% BASIC(SHAMPOO(RECIPE( 29%

SURFACTANTS& SURFACTANTS:%SOME%BASIC%INFORMATION% 32% A%SIDE%NOTE:%HOW%TO%INTERPRET%SURFACTANT%NAMES% 34% A%SIDE%NOTE%ON%SUBSTANTIVITY% 35% SURFACTANT%CHEMISTRY:%MICELLES% 37% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%CARBOXYLATES% 39% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%SULFATES%(OR%SULPHATES)% 41% HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS%by%Susan%Barclay%Nichols% 2%

SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ALKYL%SULFATES%(like%SLS)% 41% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ALKYL%ETHER%SULFATES% 42% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%AMIDE%ETHER%SULFATES% 43% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ALKYL%GLYCERIDE%SULFATES% 44% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ALKYL%SULFONATES% 45% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ALKYLNARYL%SULFONATES% 46% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%SULFOSUCCINATES% 47% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%FATTY%ACID%ISETHIONATE% 48% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%TAURATES%OR%TAURIDES% 50% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%PHOSPHATE%ESTERS% 51% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ACYLNAMINO%ACIDS%&%SALTS% 51% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%SULFOACETATES% 52% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%COCAMIDOPROPYL%BETAINE% 53% SURFACTANTS:%ALKYL%POLYGLUCOSIDES%OR%GLYCOSIDES% 54% SURFACTANT%TYPES:%ETHANOLAMINES%OR%ALKANOLAMIDES% 56%

INGREDIENTS&YOU'LL&FIND&IN&HAIR&CARE&PRODUCTS& OTHER%INGREDIENTS%YOU’LL%FIND%IN%SHAMPOO:%A%QUICK%SUMMARY% 57% HUMECTANTS% 59% GLYCERIN( 59% SODIUM(LACTATE( 60% SODIUM(PCA((salt(of(pyrrolidone(carboxylic(acid)( 61% HYDROVANCE( 61% ALOE(VERA( 62% CATIONIC%POLYMERS% 65% Polyquat(4( 66% Polyquat(7( 66% Polyquat(10( 66% Polyquat(44( 66% Honeyquat( 67% A%SIDE%NOTE%ON%BUILDNUP% 68% SILICONES% 70% Cyclomethicone( 70% Dimethicone( 71% ANTINFRIZZ%PRODUCTS%WITH%SILICONES% 73% BASIC(ANTIXFRIZZ(SPRAY( 73% BASIC(ANTIXFRIZZ(SERUM( 73% SILICONE%REPLACEMENTS% 74% C12X15(alkyl(benzoate((called(EmEster(or(Crodamol(AB(from(Croda)( 74% HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS%by%Susan%Barclay%Nichols% 3%

Crodamol(STS((aka(PPGX3(benzyl(ether(myristate)( 74% Silicone(SRX5(by(Preperse( 75% AquaEm( 75% Ethylhexyl(palmitate((also(known(as(octyl(palmitate)( 75% FILM(FORMING( 76% STATIC(CHARGE( 76% DRY(AND(WET(COMBING( 76% HYDROLYSED%PROTEINS% 77% HYDROLYSED(OAT(PROTEIN( 78% HYDROLYSED(SILK(PROTEIN( 78% PHYTOKERATIN( 79% EXTRACTS%AND%HYDROSOLS% 80% PANTHENOL% 81% MOISTURIZERS% 82% PEGX7(OLIVATE( 82% CRODAMOL(PMP( 83% USING(AN(EMULSIFIER( 84% PRESERVATIVES% 85% CROTHIX:%VISCOSITY%ENHANCER% 88% GLYCOL%DISTEARATE:%VISCOSITY%ENHANCER% 89% INCREASING%THE%VISCOSITY%OF%SURFACTANT%BASED%PRODUCTS% 89% INCREASING(THE(SURFACTANT(CONCENTRATION( 89% THE(SALT(CURVE( 90% INCREASE(THE(SIZE(OF(THE(MICELLES( 90% CREATING(A(GEL( 91% FRAGRANCES%AND%VISCOSITY% 93% FRAGRANCES%AND%CLARITY% 93% HOW(TO(TELL(IF(A(FRAGRANCE(IS(POLAR(OR(NONXPOLAR?( 94% INCREASING%MILDNESS%OF%SURFACTANT%BASED%PRODUCTS% 95%

SHAMPOO&RECIPES& INSTRUCTIONS%FOR%MAKING%SHAMPOO% 99% CREATING%A%CLARIFYING%SHAMPOO% 101% NOT(FOR(DAILY(USE(CLARIFYING(SHAMPOO(RECIPE(FOR(NORMAL(HAIR( 101% NOT(FOR(DAILY(USE(CLARIFYING(SHAMPOO(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 102% CREATING%A%CONDITIONING%SHAMPOO%FOR%NORMAL%HAIR% 103% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(RECIPE(FOR(NORMAL(HAIR( 103% CREATING%A%CONDITIONING%SHAMPOO%FOR%OILY%HAIR% 105% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(RECIPE(FOR(OILY(HAIR( 106% CREATING%A%CONDITIONING%SHAMPOO%FOR%NORMAL%TO%OILY%HAIR%WITH%SCI% 107% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(FOR(NORMAL(HAIR(WITH(SCI( 107% HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS%by%Susan%Barclay%Nichols% 4%

CREATING%A%2NINN1%SHAMPOO%FOR%NORMAL%TO%OILY%HAIR% 109% DAILY(USE(2XINX1(SHAMPOO(AND(CONDITIONER(FOR(NORMAL(TO(OILY(HAIR( 109% CREATING%A%CONDITIONING%SHAMPOO%FOR%DRY%HAIR% 111% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(FOR(DRY(HAIR(WITH(GLYCOL(DISTEARATE( 112% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(FOR(DRY(HAIR(WITH(PEGX7(COCOATE,(COCAMIDE(DEA,(OR(WATER(SOLUBLE( OILS( 113% CREATING%A%CONDITIONING%SHAMPOO%FOR%DRY%HAIR%WITH%SCI% 114% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(FOR(DRY(HAIR(WITH(SCI(AND(GLYCOL(DISTEARATE( 114% CREATING%A%2NINN1%SHAMPOO%FOR%DRY%HAIR% 116% DAILY(USE(2XINX1(SHAMPOO(AND(CONDITIONER(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 116% CREATING%A%DAILY%USE%SHAMPOO% 117% DAILY(USE(SHAMPOO(FOR(ALL(HAIR(TYPES( 118% SOLID%SHAMPOO%BARS% 120% SHAMPOO(BAR(SUITABLE(FOR(NORMAL(TO(OILY(TYPES( 120% SHAMPOO(BAR(FOR(DRY(HAIR(TYPES( 121% CONDITIONING(SHAMPOO(BAR(SUITABLE(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 122%

CONDITIONERS& HOW%CONDITIONERS%WORK% 124% HOW%TO%FORMULATE%A%CONDITIONER% 125% INCROQUAT%BTMSN50% 127% CETRIMONIUM%BROMIDE% 128% INCROQUAT%CR% 129% CETRIMONIUM%CHLORIDE% 131% INCROQUAT%OSC% 132% FATTY%ALCOHOLS%AND%CATIONIC%QUATERNARY%COMPOUNDS% 134% CETYL(ALCOHOL( 134% CETEARYL(ALCOHOL( 134% CETYL(ESTERS( 135% DEFINING%DIFFERENT%TYPES%OF%CONDITIONERS% 137% Rinse(off(conditioners( 137% Crème(rinses( 137% Intense(or(treatment(conditioners( 137% LeaveXin(conditioners( 137%

CONDITIONER&RECIPES% BASIC(RINSE(OFF(CONDITIONER((every(day(use)( 139% BASIC(RINSE(OFF(CONDITIONER((not(for(every(day(use)( 139% BASIC(RINSE(OFF(CONDITIONER((for(dry(or(damaged(hair(types)( 140% BASIC(INTENSE(CONDITIONER((not(for(every(day(use)( 140% HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS%by%Susan%Barclay%Nichols% 5%

BASIC(LEAVEXIN(CONDITIONER( 140% INSTRUCTIONS%FOR%MAKING%CONDITIONERS% 142% FORMULATING%RINSE%OFF%CONDITIONERS%WITH%HYDROSOLS%AND%EXTRACTS% 146% MODIFIED(CONDITIONER(RECIPE(WITH(EXTRACTS(AND(HYDROSOLS( 146% ORANGE(&(GRAPESEED(OILY(HAIR(CONDITIONER( 147% ALOE(&(CHAMOMILE(CONDITIONER(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 147% ALOE,(GREEN(TEA(&(PEPPERMINT(CONDITIONER(FOR(NORMAL(HAIR( 148% A(note(on(infusions( 149% FORMULATING%RINSE%OFF%CONDITIONERS%WITH%HYDROLYSED%PROTEINS% 150% BASIC(RINSE(OFF(CONDITIONER(WITH(HYDROLYZED(PROTEIN( 150% ROSE,(ROSEMARY(&(OAT(CONDITIONER(FOR(OILY(HAIR( 151% ALOE,(CHAMOMILE,(AND(SILK(CONDITIONER(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 152% FORMULATING%RINSE%OFF%CONDITIONERS%WITH%SILICONES% 153% BASIC(HAIR(CONDITIONER(WITH(SILICONES( 153% ORANGE(&(GRAPESEED(OILY(HAIR(CONDITIONER(WITH(HYDROLYZED(PROTEINS(AND(SILICONES( 154% ALOE(&(CHAMOMILE(CONDITIONER(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 154% FORMULATING%RINSE%OFF%CONDITIONERS%WITH%OILS% 156% INTENSE(CONDITIONER(WITH(OILS( 157% RINSE(OFF(CONDITIONER(WITH(OILS(SUITABLE(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 158% OLIVE(OIL( 159% INTENSE(CONDITIONER(RECIPE(WITH(OLIVE(OIL( 159% COCONUT(OIL( 159% BASIC(INTENSE(CONDITIONER(WITH(COCONUT(OIL( 160% INTENSE(CONDITIONER(WITH(COCONUT(OIL( 160% FORMULATING%INTENSE%CONDITIONERS%WITH%BUTTERS% 162% INTENSE(CONDITIONER(WITH(BUTTERS( 163% INTENSE(CONDITIONER(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(BROMIDE(&(BUTTERS( 163% WINTER(HAIR(CUSTARD((intense(conditioning)( 164% SOLID%CONDITIONER%BARS% 166% CONDITIONER(BAR(FOR(NORMAL(TO(DRY(HAIR( 167% CONDITIONER(BAR(SUITABLE(FOR(OILY(HAIR( 168% FORMULATING%LEAVE%IN%CONDITIONERS% 169% SWIFT'S(FAVOURITE(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER( 169% FORMULATING%LEAVE%IN%CONDITIONERS%WITH%HYDROSOLS%AND%EXTRACTS% 171% SWIFT'S(FAVOURITE(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER(MODIFIED(TO(INCLUDE(ALOE(VERA,(LAVENDER,(AND( ROSEMARY( 171% CHAMOMILE(&(GREEN(TEA(HYDRATING(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER( 172% HONEY,(FRUIT(&(FLOWERS(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER(FOR(NORMAL(HAIR( 173% FORMULATING%LEAVE%IN%CONDITIONERS%WITH%INCROQUAT%CR% 174% SWIFT'S(FAVOURITE(WINTER(TIME(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER(WITH(INCROQUAT(CR( 174% SWIFT'S(FAVOURITE(SUMMER(TIME(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER(WITH(FEWER(HUMECTANTS(AND( INCROQUAT(CR( 175% FORMULATING%LEAVE%IN%CONDITIONERS%WITH%OILS% 176% LEAVEXIN(CONDITIONER(WITH(OILS( 176% LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER(WITH(COCONUT(OIL( 177% HAIR%CARE%PRODUCTS%by%Susan%Barclay%Nichols% 6%

FORMULATING%VERY%LIGHT%LEAVE%IN%CONDITIONERS%FOR%FINE%HAIR% 178% BASIC(LIGHT(LEAVE(IN(CONDITIONER(WITH(CATIONIC(POLYMERS( 178% LEAVEXIN(DETANGLER(WITH(CATIONIC(POLYMERS(AND(CETRIMONIUM(CHLORIDE( 178% CONDITIONER%RECIPES%USING%CETRIMONIUM%BROMIDE% 180% BASIC(HAIR(CONDITIONER(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(BROMIDE( 181% HAIR(CONDITIONER(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(BROMIDE(&(OILS(OR(BUTTERS( 181% CETRIMONIUM(BROMIDE(CONDITIONER(FOR(OILY(HAIR( 182% CETRIMONIUM(BROMIDE(CONDITIONER(FOR(DRY(HAIR( 182% LEAVEXIN(CONDITIONER(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(BROMIDE(FOR(NORMAL,(BUT(PROBABLY(DAMAGED,(HAIR ( 183% FORMULATING%CRÈME%RINSES% 185% BASIC(RINSE(OFF(CREAM(RINSE( 185% CREAM(RINSE(WITH(EXTRA(DETANGLING(PROPERTIES( 186% CREAM(RINSE(WITH(VARIOUS(GOODIES( 186% FORMULATING%DETANGLER%PRODUCTS%WITH%CETRIMONIUM%CHLORIDE% 187% BASIC(RECIPE(FOR(A(DETANGLER(SPRAY(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(CHLORIDE( 187% DETANGLING(AND(LIGHT(CONDITIONING(SPRAY(FOR(FINE,(PROCESSED(HAIR( 188% FORMULATING%DETANGLING%PRODUCTS%WITH%INCROQUAT%CR% 189% BASIC(DETANGLING(SPRAY(WITH(INCROQUAT(CR( 189% DETANGLING(SPRAY(WITH(INCROQUAT(CR( 189% DETANGLING(SPRAY(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(CHLORIDE(AND(INCROQUAT(CR( 190% FORMULATING%DETANGLING%PRODUCTS%WITH%AMAZE%XT% 191% DETANGLING(GEL(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(CHLORIDE( 191% DETANGLING(AND(LIGHT(CONDITIONING(GEL(WITH(CETRIMONIUM(CHLORIDE( 192% DETANGLING,(LIGHT(CONDITIONING,(AND(STYLING(GEL(WITH(DETANGLING(PROPERTIES(USING(AMAZE( XT( 192% EPILOGUE% 194% % % % % %