South Africa Diary First Visit

Dates (first visit): 8th February 2009 to 22nd March 2009 42 Days - 22 on the road. 2528 miles (4044 km)

Day 1 – Monday 9th February London Heathrow to After a good flight touched down at Cape Town at 6.15 a.m. to glorious weather, unlike the last and only time we had been to Cape Town when we had torrential rain. Even though it was still early it felt like 32oC rather than the 32oF when we left England and the deep snow behind – bring it on! Through immigration without too much queuing. Bags collected, through customs without being stopped and we were back in Africa. Day ONE of our big adventure.

Quite a long walk to the hire car place past much frantic building work getting ready for the 2010 Football World Cup next year. At Auto Europe picked up our steed, a white Kia Picanto. I had gone for the cheapest but perhaps this was a little bit too much! From the airport made our way into Cape Town and sat in a stop-start rush hour queue on the . Leaving the N2 dropped down to where we were staying at the Makuti Lodge and decided to call in and see if we could dump our cases before going off for the day. Unfortunately it was still only about 9 a.m. and took the owner Doreen by surprise as, not surprisingly, our room wasn’t ready. However, she happily took in our cases and directed us into Hout Bay to a breakfast place where we had a full English breakfast!

Back to book in at Makuti before calling into the shopping centre at Hout Bay. Bought a South African phone and Vodacom roaming package that the assistant assured us would work all over southern Africa. It cost R1530 but that included R1000 credit.

Day 2 - Tuesday 10th February Hout Bay Up to a full breakfast from Doreen as this was included in the Amber Room package for last night. For tonight we moved to a self-contained unit, Maple Cottage; small but comfortable and just the job. Headed off through Cape Town to Killarney Gardens in northern Cape Town to visit our shipping agent, Britannia to settle the delivery bill prior to the arrival of our Land Rover which had set sail from Tilbury Docks, London, three weeks earlier. The bill was considerably more than we were expecting (R8450 = £615) and they didn’t take plastic. Visited a nearby Nedbank but were unable to do a bank transfer as we didn’t hold an account with them; also tried drawing out the cash from the ATM but the transactions failed twice. Gave up on it for now and instead tracked down the Safari Centre 4x4 and bought some of the items on our ‘to get’ list. Managed to get some cash out on Judi’s Nat West card but our Lloyds cards still failed. Took luncheon at overlooking the beach and sea before a lazy afternoon settling into Maple Cottage. That evening we dined at the Lookout Deck Bar looking out over Hout Bay harbour where they do fabulous seafood.

Day 3 – Wednesday 11th February Hout Bay After Doreen had telephoned the Nedbank in Hout Bay and arranged for us to transfer the money for the shipping we drove into town where the friendly bank staff helped us complete the transaction; why the other Nedbank hadn’t been more helpful we’ll never know. Into Woolworths, not the UK Woolies, to buy provisions for dinner and found a bottle store. Lunched at the Lookout Deck. We had been trying to arrange a pelagic boat trip to see the albatrosses but again we had trouble paying. In

1 the end Doreen helped out by transferring the money from her account and we paid her; this was to be yet another of the many kindnesses from Doreen and Peter.

Day 4 – Thursday 12th February Hout Bay and Cape Town Up to a glorious day and drove the short distance to the famous Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens spending the morning walking around the extensive grounds, picking up some good birds as well. Lunched in the very pleasant restaurant at the gardens and bought a snake book that not only identified the venomous snakes but also told you the manner of your death and, more importantly, how to avoid it.

Day 5 – Friday 13th February Hout Bay and Made our way over to the coast road on and down to Simons Town, past the naval base where my dad had visited during the war and on to the penguin colony at Boulders Bay in the middle of Simons Town. Paid our entrance fee but then decided to pay out for a National Parks (SANP) Wild Card (R1640; £120) that would allow free access to any of the parks in the country for a year … and got our penguin entrance fee refunded. Strolled through the small reserve snapping the numerous jackass (African) penguins and black oystercatchers before heading further south for Cape Point, stopping off at the Black Marlin for lunch.

Into the Cape Point Reserve, for free, thanks to our new Wild Card. In the car park spotted a Swiss Land Rover but no one with it. Took the lazy way up to the light house at the top of Cape Point on the funicular railway. From our 250 metre vantage point we had breathtaking views out to sea and watched the cape fur seals fishing in the azure seas hundreds of metres below us. Back to the car for a slow potter around the reserve round to The , the most south-western point of the African continent at S34 21.25 E18 28.26. Left just before closing time. Back to Makuti Lodge for a braai (barbeque).

Day 6 – Saturday 14th February Hout Bay Today was the scheduled arrival day for the Land Rover but was already running three days late. Visited a nearby site in our Southern Africa Birdfinder book in search of the elusive Knysna warbler; it remained just that! This book had been the basis of many of the dots on our map that now needed joining up as we travelled. That evening we cooked a whole fillet steak on the braai but ended up eating inside by candlelight as it turned colder and damp. Very romantic!

Day 7 – Sunday 15th February Hout Bay and Strandfontein Made our way across to a bird watching site at the Strandfontein sewerage works that was meant to be brilliant for water birds. Saw plenty and after a couple of hours went off in search of lunch but ended up getting a burger and eating it down on the beach. The white sand was blowing across the road in the strong wind as we made our way to the nearby where we saw more good birds. There was supposed to be a hippo but although we saw plenty of evidence in terms of dung, hippo walkways and warning signs, there was no sign of the actual hippo. Back to Makuti for dinner.

Day 8 – Monday 16th February Stellenbosch Wine Region

2

Armed with a map of the Winelands marked up with the best tasting estates by Doreen, something of a wine buff par excellence, we headed north-east towards Stellenbosch. Our first port of call was Stellenbosch Hills Estate where, after a little tasting we bought a couple of bottles. Next, Kanu Estate that had lovely grounds and excellent wines so had to buy four bottles of varying types. Onto Rustenberg Estate famed for its Brampton bull herd and wine. Very elegant surroundings but resisted temptation and only bought three bottles. Final stop was for lunch at the Morgenhof Estate. We both had springbok shank with a little wine and following another tasting session we bought half a dozen more bottles. After the lazy lunch slowly made our way back to Hout Bay and later settled for a light dinner as we were still full from the springbok.

Day 9 – Tuesday 17th February Cape Town Up to a sunny cloudless day so decided to head for as very often the mountain has on its ‘table cloth’, a thick layer of cloud hugging the top [Orographic clouds formed when a south- easterly wind is directed up the mountain’s slope into colder air where the moisture condenses to form the table cloth – which seems to be most of the time!]. On the internet we saw that our boat had arrived in Cape Town but was sitting out in the bay so emailed our shipping agent to try and get an arrival date. Drove the coast road up to Cape Town and up to the Table Mountain cable car station. Unfortunately, half of Cape Town’s visitors had the same idea and the queues were horrendous. Not being one to queue for anything we departed. Went down to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront to do some essential shopping and ended up buying a Garmin GPS that covered all the countries we were intending to visit to supplement our Tracks4africa system plus it had street detail of the larger towns.

Lunched in the Greek Fisherman restaurant and after looking around the fabulous Waterfront headed for the Table Mountain cable car station on the off chance it was a lot quieter. Brilliant, no queues. So paid our dues for the cable car but didn’t have to pay the park fees as we got in on our Wild Card. The revolving cable car ensures everyone gets a 360o view on the way up to the 1000 metres top. At the top we had brilliant views, unlike the one and only time we ascended before when the dense cloud ruined all chance of seeing Cape Town except when the clouds parted for about 15 seconds which wasn’t long enough to snap a photo.

We could see our boat in the bay but could only wave to the Land Rover as it was anchored up unable to enter port due to strong winds. Could also see it on our shiptracker app but that just showed it going in circles round its anchor, sometimes gaving the impression of moving off.

Quite a few people were making their way up the mountain armed with sundowners to watch the sunset but we didn’t hang around that long. Back down at the car we headed back to Hout Bay and dined in the Mariners Wharf.

Day 10 – Wednesday 18th February and Cape Point The hire car was due to be returned to the airport today but phoned up and got it extended until Sunday as we were still Land Roverless. Drove down to Kommetjie on the west side of the peninsula but had to drive the long way round as the Chapman’s Peak road was shut due to landslides; as it had been on our last visit some years ago. After a little bit of bird watching had lunch before heading down to Cape Point again for another look around.

Day 11 – Thursday 19th February Cape Town

3

Into Cape Town for shopping and a visit to a Makro store where we bought three diesel jerry cans, one water jerry can, gas bottle to run our beauclaire cooker on, plus a regulator, along with other bits and pieces for the trip. Went to pay only to find out that you had to be a Makro card holder to shop here. Over to Reception to get registered and card issued before returning to the till to pay. Tried to ascertain where I could get the gas bottle filled as they are sold empty. Nobody seemed to know so we gave up on the idea of getting it filled today. Stopped off at the Safari 4x4 Centre and bought jerry can holders and a spare 25 litre water bag as a final back up. Managed to get the gas filled in Hout Bay at the Handiman Centre thanks to Peter who told us where to go.

Day 12 – Friday 20th February Cape Town Into Cape Town to try and sort out the new Garmin that we couldn’t get to talk to our navigation system Tracks4africa on the Toughbook computer. The chap in Cape Union Mart was very helpful but after an hour couldn’t get it to communicate any more than we could. Decided instead to run the new Garmin separately and use it for town work, leaving the Tracks4africa running with our old UK Garmin for the off-road sections. My father phoned us to say he had been looking on the internet and our boat was on the move. So at 4 p.m. we drove to the Table Mountain cable car road and could see way below us in the harbour our boat being unloaded; being late Friday we didn’t expect to hear anything until next week. Telephoned the people running the pelagic boat trip to confirm tomorrow’s trip only to be told the start time had been brought forward to 6.15 a.m. as the wind was expected to get up later in the afternoon.

Day 13 Saturday 21st February Simons Town and the Atlantic The alarm went off at 4.30 a.m. and left at 5 a.m. to drive to Simons Town for 5.45 a.m. Drove via along the coast road and arrived at the rendezvous point in good time. There were two other couples, one from England and one local. The skipper of our small boat, Destiny, was Alan Blacklaws but there was no sign of our guide, Dalton Gibbs. He eventually turned up apologetically: it seems he was busy most of last evening fighting the fires raging over at . He is the warden of the Rondevlei Nature Reserve we had visited on Day 7. He got in from the fires to the news that his hippo had been found. It seems the reason we hadn’t seen the hippo then was because it had escaped. However, cornering your hippo is one thing but capturing it is certainly another and the process had taken most of the night.

We were soon on our way on our pelagic trip. Pelagic means ‘open sea’ and you have to be slightly mad to pay £120 each to sail 25 odd kilometres out to open sea to see a bird. The waters are rich in nutrients as the Benguela Current from the South Pole hits the warmer Indian Ocean meaning the waters are teaming with fish and consequently fishing boats and consequently sea birds. The idea is to sail to the fishing grounds and find a trawler with its attendant thousands of albatrosses of many species. The literature says the rougher the weather the better! The seas weren’t too rough but nevertheless we had taken sea sickness pills and wore wrist bands so felt fine. Even though it had been cloudy for most of the day our faces had caught the sun and wind. Unfortunately the skipper couldn’t find any trawlers so we didn’t witness the spectacle of the thousands of albatrosses and other sea birds picking off the discarded fish offal as they are cleaned on board. We did put out our own chum, a mash of smelly fish and pulled in a few albatrosses of 2 species, shy and black-browed and ten other good species. Mid-afternoon made our way back to shore with breathtaking views of Cape Point high above us and fur seals all around us. Arrived back at the harbour at 4.30 p.m. Said our fond farewells back at Simons Town and made our way back to Hout Bay, feeling rather disappointed that we hadn’t found a trawler but nevertheless had enjoyed the experience – maybe next time?

4

Day 14 – Sunday 22nd February Cape Town Today should have been our last day at Makuti but still being Land Roverless we needed somewhere to stay. Fortunately Doreen, bless her, calmly rejigged things so we could stay on in Maple Cottage for a few more days. Drove to northern Cape Town to Intaka Reserve, a small bird reserve which has now been surrounded by the huge Century shopping centre. After a couple of hours at the reserve we made our way into the shopping centre that turned out to be very busy, vibrant and noisy. Had lunch there and managed to find a snake bite kit. It uses a vacuum to stem the flow of the venom. Opinion varies as to its efficacy but consensus is that it makes you feel you are doing something to try and save the victim and, more importantly, the victim thinks he or she is being saved and calms down which is what you want them to do in the first place.

Day 15 – Monday 23rd February St Lowry’s Pass and Betty’s Bay A phone call to the shipping agent confirmed the container had been off-loaded but Customs wouldn’t be looking at it today. He also told us that customs would not release the container to him to transport to his depot for clearance and he didn’t think we would be allowed into the port to supervise the off-loading. Drove around the top of False Bay to Somerset West and up the steep Sir Lowry’s Pass to search for a new bird, the cape rock-jumper. The fires around Somerset West were still raging and threatening the town and surrounding wineries. The smoke was so thick that it blotted out the sun and you could smell it in Cape Town, some 40 kilometres away. Parked at the top of the pass and walked along the track looking for the bird but the fire had already been through and was now just over the ridge so we didn’t venture too far, just in case. Never did see the bird.

Dropped down to the coast towards Betty’s Bay stopping off at Kleinmond for lunch at the Alive Alive-O restaurant where we had oysters, crayfish and abalone, a new one for us and all very delicious. On to a small nature reserve, Stony Bank to visit the penguin colony that was more natural than Boulders Bay. Got back to Makuti just in time for the 6 o’clock wine tasting laid on by Doreen and Peter and joined by John and Kim with daughters Lucy and Kay, Tracy and partner, and Steve, Mary, John and partner. The first four who were English but now living in Paris had suffered a very unfortunate experience having been the victims of a nasty robbery here at Makuti whilst we were here but we had slept through it all. The incident reminded one of the divide between the haves and have nots in South Africa. One could stand in the affluent Tarragona Estate in Hout Bay and look across the valley at the squalor of the large shanty town and begin to understand the tensions that could arise. We had intended dining out after the wine tasting but with so much wine and lots of lovely nibbles we stayed put.

Day 16 Tuesday 24th February Cape Town Up nice and early to await a call from Ryan our shipping agent. Mid-morning he called to say he couldn’t get the vehicle to start and I talked him through how to switch the two battery isolation switches on and left him to it. He called back later to tell us he still couldn’t get it started and had to result to pushing the beast out of the container rather than lose his customs slot. This took some effort; the container was like an oven, had very little clearance around the vehicle, the tyres where still very low having been dropped in England to get the headroom clearance and the thing weighed over 3.5 tonnes. Apparently the customs lady was being a bit finicky in the office and doubted that we were only carrying expedition equipment. However, it seems once she inspected the vehicle she only looked in the front. She questioned the two small fans I had set up to give us extra cooling,

5 claiming they were domestic items but thanks to Ryan, commonsense prevailed and the Carnet de Passage was signed.

Ryan drove down to collect us from Hout Bay as we now could enter the bonded section. En route through Camps Bay we passed a gaggle of spectators and police with an obvious dead body lying under a blanket on the grass at the top of the beach near to the road with the smallest crime scene I’ve ever seen taped around it. Not an uncommon occurrence apparently.

Once at the vehicle I too couldn’t start it despite going through the re-mobilising procedure. The batteries had been jumped from a fork lift truck to no avail and eventually I had to conclude the starter motor had packed up. It had started up fine when I drove it into the container at Barking but three weeks plus on the high seas had been too much for her. Finally I got the fork lift truck to tow start me … a very ignominious start to our twelve month African adventure indeed! Drove around to the customs office to finalise the paperwork while Ryan phoned the Cape Town Land Rover dealer. They weren’t too helpful at all and wouldn’t turn out.

Found an auto-electrician on the Garmin and headed there. I reversed up the very steep, very narrow and completely blind alleyway to their premises. They confirmed the starter motor was dead but because it was nearly 5 o’clock they couldn’t do anything to help today. Now I had to bump start it down the slope of the alley! But having no side views of the footpath or road at the bottom Judi supervised the manoeuvre and was ready to stop any passing pedestrians or vehicle. Fortunately the Land Rover started easily and without drama. Drove through Cape Town down to Hout Bay very conscious of the fact that I must not stall her! Back at Makuti I parked on the public road facing down the slope but Peter insisted I park down their slope in their secure car park. He would tow me out having arranged for the vehicle to visit the garage he uses in town. We took Doreen and Peter out to Papino’s restaurant for pizzas as a little thank you for what they had done for us so far.

Day 17 – Wednesday 25th February Hout Bay Day spent fitting the various bits we had bought onto the Land Rover which entailed taking everything off the roof rack and rearranging it before bolting the bits back on in place and trying to pack everything back in some semblance of order. Fortunately Peter was more than happy for me to use his workshop and grinder and other bits. We still had the hire car having extended it yet again until the 28th so took ourselves down to the Lookout for dinner.

Day 18 – Thursday 26th February Hout Bay and around Peter towed me up the steep slope onto the road where the Land Rover bump started with ease. I was impressed with his bakkie (pick-up) having the power to tow the Land Rover up the steep slope. Peter led the way to town and into R.A.C.E. (Ray’s Auto Centre of Excellence) where I booked it in with Ray, the boss. Later on I received a phone call from Ray who confirmed the old starter was burnt out and needed replacing but a genuine starter would be very expensive and would I be happy with a Bosch one at half the price! He was also going to try and get the old one re-wound in which case if successful would give me a spare. Drove to the Cavendish shopping centre to visit the AA shop to get some break down cover, just in case and got basic recovery for South Africa for under £50. Later that afternoon the garage rang to say it was ready and we drove down to settle the bill; £500 but most of that was for parts and the repair of the old one. We kept telling ourselves: better to happen now than in the middle of the Kalahari Desert.

6

That evening we drove to the Chapman’s Peak Hotel but the terrace tables with a sunset view over the bay were all taken so we ate inside. Our waiter was a very friendly lad with a good sense of humour and when we came to settle up he brought the bill in a folder into which Judi placed her Nat West MasterCard expecting him to bring over the machine. However, he walked off with it and before we could react I saw him disappear into the staff room only to quickly reappear and bring the card and bill back apologising that he shouldn’t have walked off with it but he thought it had been cash. He brought over the machine and we added a decent tip for being a cheery and attentive waiter, Judi punched in her PIN and he made a great show of not looking and we left back to Makuti where Peter told me to park around the back near his workshop for added security.

Day 19 – Friday 27th February Hout Bay Another day of packing at Makuti rounded off with Doreen and Peter putting on a braai for us, with some fine wine, but of course.

Day 20 – Saturday 28th February Hout Bay and Cape Town Last minute packing and unpacking with a place for everything and everything in its place which, unfortunately, changed on a daily basis. Drove into Hout Bay for some last minute expedition shopping and a thank-you present for Peter and Doreen. Judi went to pay on her Nat West card but it wouldn’t go through, so paid cash. In Woolworths again the card was referred, so back at Makuti went onto the internet to check her bank but her account wasn’t coming up on the system. Ended up speaking to the fraud line to find out what was wrong with the card only to be told it had been cancelled following a withdrawal in Johannesburg for £70 followed by an attempt to withdraw about £300 that had been blocked. Brilliant security and they even refunded the £70, but we were now short of one of our cards as we wouldn’t have a postal address for the next year to get a new one sent out. It had to be the other night’s waiter and Doreen spoke to the hotel owner to alert them.

Filled up the hire car and Judi followed in the Land Rover as we drove to Cape Town airport to deliver the hire car back; thank goodness they had been agreeable to us keeping the car for as long as we did. Back at Hout Bay filled the Land Rover with diesel (100 litres) ready for tomorrow’s off. Here we had our first roadside conversation with an interested local where we went through our itinerary. Drove down to the Wharfside for our last normal meal. It was blowing a gale and covering the roads with fine white sand when we came out. The vehicle was covered with the stuff and had got into every vehicle orifice: the first of a year’s worth of African sand we would experience we felt sure.

Day 21 - Sunday 1st March FIRST DAY OF THE BIG ADVENTURE The day started with an early breakfast cooked by the fair hands of Doreen, followed by a final empty of our room. Managed to squeeze the last few things into the little remaining space in the Land Rover. Settled up the Makuti bill and bought a 250G external data storage off Doreen as our Toughbook back-up. Doreen had bought it for herself but not yet used it and said we could have it and she would replace it. By 10 a.m. we were ready for the off and Doreen and Peter, the dogs Oliver, Gypsy and Bupa along with the other Makuti residents assembled to see us off. Doreen presented us with a first aid box that contained some first aid items along with 2 wine glasses, bottle opener, bottle of wine, some china mugs and some candles all of which will be put to good use. We handed over our present to them for putting up with us and making us feel most welcome and accommodating us for 20 days instead of the original 12 days.

7

Following a photo shoot we eventually said our fond farewells and hit the road at 10.30 a.m. It was a lovely sunny day and we drove up the coast road past the 12 Apostles [a range of 12 mountain peaks lining the coast road] and Table Mountain and around the Waterfront and out of Cape Town on the R27.

Entered the Langebaan National Park with nothing to pay thanks to our Wild Card and established there was no camping. Walked out to the first hide and I pointed out to Judi a large hole in the floor; as we were on stilts it was several feet down to the water and mud below so told her to be careful. I sat down and my new sunglasses promptly fell off my head, through the hole and onto the mud. There was no way I could reach them. Searched outside on the path for a suitable implement The path fence was dismantled and a 2 metre length of wire soon hooked the glasses. There were many waders around and we ate the rolls and peaches Doreen had packed us off with.

Spent the afternoon in the park leaving at 5 p.m. and headed for a campsite in Langebaan but couldn’t find it. Ended up on the road out to Mykonos and found a very nice campsite looking out over the Saldanha Bay with the crashing waves not far away. The office was closed so needed to find someone to pay in the morning. A young couple wandered over to chat to us: he was Dutch and she English, a nurse and were over for a year doing much the same as us but had bought a Toyota Hilux in Cape Town and had it kitted out a couple of weeks ago. They were into their windsurfing and the like so were going to hug the coast rather than head inland. Shared a bottle of wine with them and watched the sun go down over the bay. I lit the first of what was going to be many open fires and cooked a spatchcocked chicken. This was the life and both hoped the next year would be along the same lines.

Day 22 – Monday 2nd March Around Langebaan Slept well considering this was the first trip African night in the roof tent and decided to stay a second and re-visit the nature reserve. Following leisurely visits to the two hides stopped off at the reserve’s restaurant, the Geelbek where we had an excellent lunch in the sun looking out over the bay. Drove up the west side of the reserve. Stopped off on the bay beach that seemed a little more commercialised with two or three small houseboats moored up and small boats ferrying guests to and fro. From the jetty in the clear water we could see some large fish patrolling across the sandy bottom and asked a local what they were; they turned out to be harmless sand sharks looking for crustaceans and shellfish. Called into the Langebaan Spar to stock up on provisions before heading back to camp and getting the fire on for some steaks.

Day 23 – Tuesday 3rd March Langebaan to Lamberts Bay Our second trip night proper in Africa with no problems whatsoever. All packed up we headed north for Lambert’s Bay via Velddrift. Stopped off at a small reserve, Rocher Pan where we had to let ourselves in through the gate, sign ourselves in and should have paid in the honesty box but once again allowed ourselves in for free on the Wild Card. From here we got to Elandsbaai (baai = bay) and, from memory, found the start of the Spoornet toll track that was the most direct route north. The last time we were here with Jackie Viner we had to search out the post office to buy a permit but now there was a man at the barrier where we paid R20 to pass. The good gravel track roughly followed the train track and we passed several pools with hundreds of greater and lesser flamingos. Eventually reached the end and rejoined the tarred main road.

Our Tracks4africa was guiding us well and showed a nearby restaurant, the Muisbosskerm Restaurant where we stopped off for lunch. It was getting on for near the end of service but from

8 what we saw were happy to pay our R200 each for the buffet plus an extra R30 to have a huge half of crayfish. There was all manner of food with the fish and meat cooked before you and the paper plates and mussel shells for cutlery only added to the quaintness of the place. Facilities were just some thatched shelters right on the beach with a few scattered chairs and tables. Had an excellent lunch; the place deservedly has a reputation in these parts and was remarkably busy given that it was a Tuesday and in the middle of nowhere.

Out in the car park we got chatting to some fellow travellers in a Land Rover on their way back from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and they gave us plenty of general information along with an update regarding the Tanzania to Mozambique ferry … actually just some dugout canoes lashed together upon which you drive your treasured vehicle to be then paddled across the wide Ruvuma River. On the other side, when trying to drive off the ‘raft’, being 4 wheel drive, once the front wheels make it onto the bank the rear driven wheels tend to shoot out the canoes backwards rather than drive forward, making life very exciting! – I think not!

Continued north on the coast road to Lamberts Bay and to the docks near the gannetry. On the only previous visit here the seas were so rough that the waves crashed over the quay that was the walkway out to the Bird Island and we weren’t allowed to enter. This time it was hot and sunny with calm seas so paid our R2.30 for the car park but got into the reserve on our Wild Card. It was only a short walk to the ‘island’. There were thousands of cape gannets nesting noisily in front of the elevated hide giving spectacular close up views of the birds and the interactions between them and their neighbours; it didn’t smell too bad either. In the small docks we spotted a fishing boat called St Joseph and had to take its picture; Joseph is my father and grandson’s name. Last visit there was a fishing boat called Judith.

Camped a short distance from the town looking back over the island and the birds. Chatted to some fellow campers and related a résumé of our forthcoming travels. Having already recited it every time we met someone we were regretting not having a printed travel itinerary sheet to hand out! But everyone is genuinely interested in our adventure. Had planned to cut east back across to the Cederberg Mountains but they told us recent fires had burnt out much of the park so decided to press on north instead.

Day 24 – Wednesday 4th March Lamberts Bay to West Coast Eco-trail From Lamberts Bay the road heads inland until returning to the coast at Doringbaai where Tracks4africa had a fish shop marked. Found the place and bought a couple of crayfish, calamari steaks and some prawns for just R138, about £10. The fishmonger had to issue us a ‘movement permit’ for the crayfish in case we were checked by the police to prove they were legitimate as the crayfish numbers can easily be fished out and catches are strictly controlled.

Tracks4africa also showed an eco-trail that hugged the coast for many miles north, far from the beaten track, which took our fancy. Found a small bay and cooked the prawns on the beach and washed them down with a glass or two of chenin blanc. Reached Strandfontein where someone had recommended the campsite but both agreed it was too early to stop so decided to re-join the eco-trail and press on north to camps marked on Tracks4africa just beyond the diamond mines. The eco-trail was a reasonable track that varied from corrugations (compacted gravel or sand forming a surface just like a corrugated roof) to sand, with odd detours down to isolated coves and beaches.

Hadn’t seen a soul all day on the trail until, ahead of us, we saw a vehicle down on the beach. Next thing we knew we were stuck in deep sand. It was my own fault in not spotting it, not having dropped

9 the tyre pressures and not being in the right gear with diff locks on. The couple, Pieter and Louise wandered over and told us they too had got stuck here last night and had to spend the night there until he managed to summon a tractor from the diamond mine that morning. At this stage I declined his offer to call for it again but with the temperature at about 40oC it was hard work digging and after about half an hour, with dusk not far off I succumbed to the tractor. They arrived within 20 minutes but they too got themselves stuck trying to pull me forwards - but soon pulled me out backwards. Now with deflated tyres and the correct gear and central and rear air lockers engaged she drove through without hesitation. We bade farewell to Pieter and Louise and gave the three on the tractor a generous tip for their troubles even though I could have, eventually, got us out - honest.

The light was fading so we pressed on a little to find our first wild camp spot of the trip and passed Pieter and Louise setting up camp. After a couple of kilometres we found a perfect spot in a small cove. We cooked our delicious crayfish on the open fire and after dinner we just sat in the absolute blackness, in awe of the amazing display of stars and the Milky Way – you just don’t get stars like this in the UK.

Day 25 – Thursday 5th March West Coast Eco-trail to Springbok Continued on the eco-trail avoiding the diamond areas where they would confiscate the vehicle if we trespassed. By mid-morning we were still miles from anywhere and some 80 km from the parallel main road with the fuel dropping down to half main tank which was probably about a 250 to 320 kilometre range. Keyed in fuel into the GPS and it came up as the nearest being Springbok to the north about 160 km away as the crow flies. This panicked us a little. Later realised we hadn’t searched correctly. At this point we agreed that carrying 60 litres of fresh air on the roof in the jerry cans was rather silly and resolved to hereafter always carry them full of diesel.

Reached an area called Groenriviersmond [mouth of the river Groen] dry, fortunately and decided to leave the eco-trail and head for the main road on what looked like a reasonable track. Met an oncoming vehicle. The driver stopped to chat. He was an ex-pat and said there was fuel at Garies town at the end of the track. On the way we spotted some meerkats, our first, who were entertaining as they kept popping out of different holes to see if we had gone.

At Garies we filled all the tanks, main, auxiliary and the three jerry cans before lunching at the nearby restaurant. Outside I spotted a German registered Opel Frontera that looked pretty standard. Chatted to an elderly German couple who had driven down from Germany and were on their way to Botswana and then Namibia where they used to live. I felt decidedly over-engineered but consoled myself because they wouldn’t have visited the desolate places we intended going – or at least I hoped so!

On the main headed north for Springbok up through the mountains getting to a height of 879 metres. The scenery was spectacular although the Land Rover misbehaved on some of the long drags where the temperature gauge flicked to hot, then cold and the engine hiccupped. She had not done that since Spain on the way to Morocco a couple of years ago. Arrived at Springbok and followed Tracks4africa to the campsite at the Goegap National Park and arrived just before 4 p.m. The girl on the gate directed us to the nearby campsite as the office down the road would now be closed.

It was a lovely site with just one other fellow camper. Cooked on the braai and sat under the starry, starry night without a breath of wind. Went to bed missing the sounds of waves. We were awoken just after 2 a.m. by the wind that was picking up and we could see distant lightening flashing over the mountains to the north. By 5 a.m. the window flap springs blew out and on looking out the window,

10 to our horror could see sparks being blown away into the nearby short, very dry, bush. The wind had whipped up our braai and reignited the ashes and there was now the very real risk of a fire. Fortunately nothing caught and I was able to stamp out the sparks and douse the embers. New camp rule – never go to bed with the fire still going regardless of how calm it was!

Day 26 – Friday 6th March Goegap Nature Reserve Following on from the disturbed night we were up early. The wind had dropped and the lightening had come to nothing and it was a hot cloudless start. Called into the Park office and paid for two nights before driving around the tourist route although we saw no one else. Did see gemsbok and springbok before leaving the park to drive into Springbok town to shop. Found a Spar and bottle store and stocked up.

Back at the park we decided to tackle the 4x4 route through the park. Should have paid a few rand for this but the office was deserted. We intended camping on this route but the supposed site had no obvious camping area and was just a very run down cabin with no ablutions or water and not a patch on last night’s one. Carried on round the challenging track then returned to the first camp, spotting zebra on the way. We were the only ones at the camp.

It was now getting on for 7.30 p.m., the light was fading, the wind was getting up again and the lightening was flashing to the north. Parked up next to the ablution block to try to get out of the wind should it strengthen during the night and battened down the hatches. As it happened it remained fairly calm and never did hear thunder.

Day 27 – Saturday 7th March Springbok to Alexander Bay Up at 7 a.m. and watched a mongoose raiding the bins in the campsite. Following a rearrangement of the vehicle contents drove down to the office to pay for the 4x4 drive but it was closed so couldn’t pay. Into Springbok to get cash and to visit the internet café - only to find it didn’t open at weekends! From Springbok headed up the N7 as far as Steinkopf before turning west for the coast at Port Nolloth. The road traversed several spectacular passes and on through huge expanses of barren countryside. Stayed quite high until the last few kilometres when the road dropped down to sea level.

At Port Nolloth headed for a restaurant on Tracks4africa called Mammas; now called Vespetti. Outside was a Swiss registered Land Cruiser and we passed the time of day with the sole occupant Stefan. He had driven down 3 years ago and just stayed, driving from country to country. The restaurant owners were also a bit mad: they were planning to ride from Durban to Dublin on Vespa scooters to raise money for a Cape Town and Dublin Hospital. After topping up with fuel followed the coast road north to Alexander Bay in the extreme top left corner of South Africa through mile after mile of desolate land.

At Alexander Bay had to get a permit at the security gate to enter the town, a diamond area. Presumably because it was a weekend it had the feeling of very strange and unnerving place with lots of youths driving erratically around the worse for drink with loud music thumping out of various seedy looking establishments. The supposed good birding site wasn’t so we soon left.

Headed inland along the Orange River, the border between us and Namibia to a campsite that had a good write-up in the guidebook. There was a large group of having a good time and we thought we may be in for a noisy night. But suddenly they all packed up their tents and caravans and left, leaving us on our own. Prior to their departure, in the toilet block a young girl rattled on to Judi

11 in Afrikaans and then asked her mother, in English why she couldn’t understand; the penny dropped that Judi was not local. It was a good reminder we were well off the tourist route. We hadn’t seen anybody official to pay but later on a woman arrived and started cleaning out one of the cabins. I tried to ask her how much for one night and ended up giving her a few rand that I thought she said was the cost, but her English was non-existent. She took the money but an hour later she came over to me and gave me the money back! I’m still not too sure what she thought I was paying for! Eventually we did manage to pay someone who was management.

Day 28 – Sunday 8th March Orange River to the Richtersveld National Park On the track by 10.20 a.m. to drive the 50 odd kilometres to the Richtersveld National Park gate at Sendelingsdrift. You have to enter here but can exit some 20 km before. There is a recently opened pontoon (floating bridge) across to Namibia but didn’t use it as we had already decided we will do Namibia later on in the year. Instead, we’ll have a leisurely wander to Botswana to get to Gaborone for 31st March due to the fact we lost over a week at the start with the Land Rover being delayed. Got in on our Wild Card and paid for two nights camping, opting for a night at two of the river sites. The girl did warn us to be very careful where we camped as there was a lot of water in the Orange River and it could easily rise several metres if we had rain.

Topped up with fuel and headed into the park. The only entrance track in is described as a 4x4 only track. With some serious rock sections I wondered how many drivers have met their match here in their hire vehicles. The park was as dry as a bone and extremely barren with no animal life save a pair of klipspringers, (small antelopes) and little bird life. Lunched at one campsite, Potjiespram, near the river before heading off for our overnight campsite at De Hoop. Tracks4africa and a specific map we had bought in Cape Town were very good, which was just as well as the single sheet we got at the gate was completely useless.

Dropped down to the campsite along a dry river bed to the Orange River only to find that a couple of the pitches and the ablution block had been washed away by the still high waters. A third pitch was occupied by some goat herder’s huts complete with herd of goats and the track to the remaining two just disappeared into the river. We didn’t hesitate in agreeing we weren’t camping here.

Headed for the site we were supposed to be at the following night. The temperature was well over 40oC and the sun was blazing so it came as something of a complete surprise when large rain drops hit the screen. We both jumped out to cool in the rain and in the distance we could hear thunder. The second site, Richtersberg, was also on the Orange River with a dry river bed approach down to it. This river bed was quite tricky in places with some deep sand and I was getting more and more concerned that we would be stuck at the bottom should it flood. At this point we noticed a trickle of water flowing towards us down the dry river bed. Time to get out of here we both agreed. On the way out we waved to the only vehicle we had seen all day, a herder and his family. Drove on searching for a secluded and spectacular wild camp spot.

Ended up on a barren plain alongside a rocky outcrop and set up camp. The wind dropped and the thunder came to nothing. After dinner I dug a toilet hole at the front of the Land Rover in order for Judi to christen the collapsible toilet seat we had bought off the internet in the UK. Having dug the hole I positioned the seat legs over the hole and left Judi to it. I heard a cry … and found Judi on her back holding her head: the seat had collapsed sending her backwards. Unfortunately I had dug the hole a bit too close to the Land Rover and she had hit her head on my winch. I suggested that it might have been something to do with the distribution of weight and demonstrated the correct way to use the equipment. This confirmed that the seat was ‘crap’ as I too cracked my head on the winch!

12

Later on, after a brandy or two, I had a final demonstration away from the Land Rover without the hole, but still ended up on my back. The seat was condemned but we’ll keep it for later for Justine who is joining us in Botswana as she had been quite excited at the prospect of using it. Following all that exertion we just sat and looked at the wonderful stars and satellites before adjourning to bed.

Day 29 – Monday 9th March Richtersveld National Park Up before 7 a.m. to the sound of distant thunder but got the tent down in the dry, in fact it never did rain. Headed for another camp, Kokerboomkloof, to use the ablution facilities. Still not a soul about and at least we had a stable toilet seat to use. I rescued a large scorpion from a basin where I guess it had been for some while as it looked in poor condition. Explored the remaining tracks, some of which had some steep rock climbs and took in the scenery and rock formations. The only animal we saw, ignoring goats was a lone black-backed jackal.

Made our way to the campsite where we had lunch the first day and set up camp. It was really hot and dusty and we spent the rest of the afternoon doing jobs including Judi doing the washing and me doing the wringing. The rains started just around dinner and had to huddle under the roof tent canopy. We should have put out the Bedouin awning (a roll-out canopy fitted to the side of the Land Rover) but there wasn’t enough room for it out the side and I couldn’t be bothered moving. We were quite close to the river but being a metre or more below us so not too worried, yet, about being washed away during the night, but nevertheless conscious of the dangers.

Day 30 – Tuesday 10th March Richtersveld National Park to Springbok A nearby vervet monkey watched us eat breakfast then helped itself to a loaf of bread off the table once we turned our back. Got it back but we’ll need to be more alert in future. Left the park through the main gate, topped up with fuel and re-inflated the tyres. Our intention was to get to Pofadder tonight. Followed a track on Tracks4africa and cut through the middle of nowhere and eventually came out at a small town called Eksteenfontein. From here we made our way to Steinkopf and found a small Spar and drove into the car park.

A chap came up to us and told us we had come in the ‘out’ entrance and would have to fine us as he was security. I told him I would see him on the way out later. Inside I noticed proper guards in uniforms so as we came out with our bags I told the chap to ‘go away’. He then tried to carry our bags and whereas I would normally let someone carry the bags I wouldn’t let him. He got very excited when I told him he wasn’t security and I didn’t like liars. He pleaded with me and explained he had been a guard in Cape Town but still I ushered him away. As we went to drive off we saw him pick up a couple of large stones and gestured as if to throw them at us; fortunately another local made him put them down. Whether he would have thrown them, we’ll never know. Found a small bottle store that was just closing for lunch but he opened up for us and we stocked up with essentials. As we got back into the vehicle another local drunk came up to us demanding drink or money but took my advice without fuss. Time to get out of this place as we had a bad feeling about the place; a town with too much unemployment, too much drink and too much tension.

Back at the N7 we turned north to pick up the road that would take us across towards Pofadder. Turning off the main road we were faced with a washed away section of the road over what was once again a dry river bed. I could have got across with a bit of digging and waffle boarding but having only gone about 50 metres from the main road the thought of another 160 km of possibly the same hard going was enough to convince us turning back was the sensible thing to do.

13

Decided to head back down to Springbok for the night and then pick up the main tarred N14 to Pofadder tomorrow. Tried to get back into the Goegap Park but got there just after 4 p.m. to find the gate closed. Ended up in the Springbok Caravan Park back in the town. Spotted the Swiss Land Cruiser we had seen in Port Nolloth and exchanged pleasantries with Stefan. Heard more distant thunder to the north and had a little rain during the night.

Day 31 – Wednesday 11th March Springbok to Pofadder A family of yellow mongooses paid us a visit and sniffed out our discarded ostrich leftovers from last night. Into town to shop at the large Spar, the bottle store, bank and to the internet café (R1 per minute) that had been closed last Saturday. Checked the emails and endeavoured to update my travelpod that I was still trying to get to grips with. Also in there was Stefan to whom we nodded. A quick fuel stop and off heading for Pofadder. Some way down the road we passed Stefan in a lay-by having his lunch and waved to each other.

Followed some of the tracks in our bird watching guide. We passed some huge sociable weavers nests engulfing the roadside telegraph poles and in some cases the weight had snapped the pole. Found a campsite in Pofadder and joined the other two fellow campers one of whom was good old Stefan. A quiet site save for the annoying chap over the road who sat on his doorstep and whistled monotonously and tunelessly, without drawing breathe, for most of the evening

Day 32 – Thursday 12th March Pofadder to Augrabies Falls National Park Diverted north to Onseepkans right up on the Namibian border just for the fun of it and to hunt for rosy-faced lovebirds. Found the border crossing easily enough but not the pesky birds; we should pick these up later in the trip, hopefully. Pressed on to the Augrabies Falls National Park and set up camp and also put out the Bedouin awning as rain threatened. From our site it was a short walk to the spectacular Augrabies Falls. Here the mighty Orange River, which rises in Lesotho, drops 50 metres in a series of cataracts before squeezing through a very narrow gorge to again plunge another 56 metres to the river below. A good boardwalk gave some excellent view points of the river and gorge. Six weeks ago it seems the water was a mere trickle over the falls but now, being in near flood it was dramatic. The falls lived up to its name as apparently Augrabies means ‘the noise-making place’ - went to bed later to the sound of the crashing water.

Day 33 – Friday 13th March Around Augrabies Falls National Park Packed up what we had to, to be able to drive into the park leaving behind table and chairs. We didn’t see another vehicle deep in the park but did see our first giraffe and kudu of the trip. Pulled into a quiet picnic spot, lit some charcoal in the provided braai and cooked sausages for lunch. All around us walking on the sand were masses of giant black millipedes; we call them chugalongas (we think they called them something like this when we were in Kenya - in the local Zulu language they call steam trains ‘shongololos’ which means centipede, so probably the root) and they can be up to thirty centimetres long. Slowly made our way back to camp, re-set up the tent then wandered over to speak to a young couple in a Swiss Land Rover like ours with roof tent. They had shipped to Cape Town and were also spending a year here before shipping home. We exchanged details with Martin and Daniela.

Day 34 – Saturday 14th March Augrabies Falls National Park to Upington

14

Made our way over to Upington having rejoined the main N14 that now tracked the Orange River through a large area of grapevines which were, apparently, destined to be currents, sultanas or raisins rather than wine. At Upington found the shopping centre and stocked up on food and drink before heading out to Spitskop, a small private reserve just north of Upington. There was quite a bit of game in the reserve but the long grass did an excellent job of hiding some of the smaller stuff. Spent much of the afternoon in the reserve before calling back at the office to pay for a night’s camping.

The site was on the opposite side of the road with entry through a fob operated gate and nicely laid out with a large grassy area, swimming pool, some rooms and an excellent ablution block with washing machines allowing the bedding to get a good wash. Just before we reached the reserve we had noticed some road signs warning of high speed vehicle testing and sure enough there were a couple of disguised road sports cars on German plates tearing up and down on the public road at high speed with official blessing: I do hope the local people and wildlife appreciate this! Sat around and dipped in the pool. The small herd of black springbok edged closer and closer to us doing a great job keeping the well-watered grass short.

Day 35 – Sunday 15th March Upington to Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park Went to leave but couldn’t get the gate to open on the fob or exit button and had to resort to scaling the wall and walking over to the office in the reserve opposite. The owner walked back with me as it seems a power cut meant the gate was going nowhere and they had no override mechanism! What we had to do was to drive into a nearby enclosure through an ordinary gate as the owner opened it. It contained a couple of large rhea who didn’t like the owner or vehicles so it made for entertainment as we entered with the birds trying to peck the owner, the vehicle and even us through the open window. Then had to repeat the same gate opening procedure to escape at the other end.

Set out north on the R360 for the 250 km to the Kgalagadi Park. It was a long, straight road and I could see why it was chosen for a speed trial section although the ones we saw weren’t driving excessively fast. Our information was that the road as far as Askham was good but the last 65 km were not. At one point we were overtaken by a Land Rover travelling at a speed, unheard of for a Defender. Also overtaken by various convoys who stared at us before waving. Stopped off at Askham, topped up with fuel but, being Sunday, the few other shops were closed. As it turned out, the road right up to the Park gate at Twee Rivieren was now tarred and we arrived without problem.

At the gate we got a permit for five nights but then had to go to the reception to book in for camping at one of the three camps in the Park. The only vacancies were here at Twee Rivieren, on the edge of this massive park, so we paid for two nights. The site although dusty had good plots with an excellent ablution block. Claimed a spot by leaving our table and chairs before heading off for a couple of hours in the park. Heard tales of good sightings of leopard not far from the camp and lion further in so we set off in anticipation. Drove as far as the Nossob turn off stopping off at a small museum with a nearby well sporting the following sign; ‘Caution Possible Bee Activity. Well Dug By Hand’.

Returned to camp without bagging any cats. You have to hand in your daily permit and must be out of the park and through the gate to the enclosed camp by sunset at 7 p.m. When we handed it in at reception we found out that there were actually vacancies at the Mata Mata Camp up on the Namibian border so changed tomorrow night to there and booked a second there with the forth back at Twee Rivieren. The Nossob camp where we really wanted to stay was still fully booked. This meant we wouldn’t be able to get to the extreme north of the park due to the distances involved.

Day 36 – Monday 16th March

15

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Twee Rivieren Camp to Mata Mata Camp Up before 6 a.m. and already there was a small queue to get into the park for 6 a.m. opening. Spotted the Swiss couple in the queue and passed the time of day with them. Wandered up to reception to get our daily permit and after we had packed up we too signed in at the gate and set off into the park. It felt like the first real wilderness we had experienced on the trip in terms of dangerous wild animals and sheer size: the South African and Botswana sections that make up the Transfrontier Park are some 3.6 million hectares.

Set off slowly in low gearbox to make our way the 100 km to the Mata Mata camp along the dry Auob River valley. Plenty of large game around and the valley, although very dry was quite green in places thanks to several boreholes. Stopped off in an open picnic spot for lunch having checked around for stray lions, just in case.

Booked in at Mata Mata and paid for an extra second night before setting up overlooking a small waterhole. The camp, however, was fenced so not too much chance of being eaten in the night. An elderly Austrian couple, Heinz and Goota wandered over to speak to us enquiring if we would like to go for an early morning game walk with them to half the individual costs; we agreed. In a tree outside the small shop the hoped-for white-faced scops-owl, two of them, were found roosting. Later on after dark had close encounters with a huge Verreaux’s giant eagle owl who visited the water hole several times.

Day 37 –Tuesday 17th March Around Mata Mata Having worked out that there was no way we could get from Mata Mata, across to the Nossob River, up north to the top of the South African section and back to Mata Mata in a day, as it was a 375 mile round trip, we decided to stay around Mata Mata. This was a shame as the greatest game concentration is meant to be in the northern sector. We were up at 5.30 a.m. for our 6.30 a.m. game walk having put on our walking boots for the first time this trip.

Met up with our guide, an assistant and the other couple and set off in reserve vehicle into the park while it was still dark. Drove into the bush and parked up. The guide had a rifle and checked behind the bushes and rocks before giving us the all clear to get out of the vehicle. Walked for a couple of hours but didn’t have any heart-stopping moments only getting close to a herd of gemsbok, seven giraffe and some springbok. The guide said he had nearly stepped on a horned viper but it had quickly disappeared down a nearby hole before we could see it. They are quite small but deadly and I was grateful I hadn’t gone for my sandals.

The guide was knowledgeable about the trees and plants as well as the animals and birds so the four of us agreed to book a sundowner game drive for tonight. Back at camp we packed up the tent and went for our own game drive. Long sections of the track were badly corrugated and it was pretty uncomfortable at low speed with the vehicle developing an occasional clunk from the rear offside somewhere. Came across a couple of stationary vehicles looking to the trees on the sand dunes across the valley; someone told us to look under a particular tree. There before us were three lion cubs, two quite small and one larger one. It looked as if they had been told to stay put whilst the pride went off for lunch.

Carried on stopping off lunch, more sausages, cooked in a picnic area before slowly making our way back to camp. Passed the spot where we had earlier seen the lions. They had moved on but a short distance further on Judi spotted them climbing up the dunes, along with two lionesses. Back at camp in plenty of time to get ready for the game drive and I topped up with fuel at the pump. Judi put the

16 slow cooker on with a lamb stew for our return and were both entertained by a bold ground squirrel who came right up to us. They were obviously habituated as their burrows were all over the camp and although we really shouldn’t have, we did give the creature a few tit-bits. A chap came over to find out where we were from; it seems he was in one of the convoys that had overtaken us on the way up and they were foxed by our number plate. Chatted for some time until another camper came over also enquiring about our adventure. Must get a decent sized GB sticker as the little one on the rear number plate is small.

Set off on our game drive just before sunset after the gates had closed into the bush and up to a viewpoint to watch the sun go down. This time we had just the one guide and no rifle but after a quick check around we alighted and savoured the view; the only thing missing was a gin and tonic that I had fully expected to have been thrown in! Back on the vehicle drove along the track and found the lions lazing on the top of the dunes, not far from where we saw them earlier, surveying the valley floor below and the nearby herds of game. With spotlights going we picked up much the same animals as we had seen in daylight although I did pick up an African wild cat, a first for us, and giant eagle owl. We were out for a couple of hours before returning to camp. Here we had our own late sundowners and lamb stew.

Day 38 – Wednesday 18th March Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Mata Mata to Twee Rivieren Said farewell to Heinz and Goota and headed south back down the track as far as the turning across to the Nossob River Valley. From here the track crossed over the vegetated dunes which contained little animal or birdlife compared to the valleys. After 65 km we reached the Nossob track and turned south for Twee Rivieren and pulled into a picnic site for lunch. Soon after a couple of Land Rovers pulled in and got out tables and chairs for the occupant’s lunch. Chatted to them and found out the two drivers where the husband and wife owners of the travel business specialising in bird tours and it was he who had overtaken us on the way up from Upington. He had urgently delivered one of the party to Upington airport and was trying to rejoin that day’s itinerary. The chap tried to persuade us to join them on a maiden trip to Angola but it didn’t really fit in with our plans.

Also pulling into the picnic site was Stefan and although his English wasn’t great he was quite chatty. Another German couple in a hire vehicle turned up and a group conference ensued meaning the lunch was well and truly delayed. Stefan had told us that the Swiss couple we met the other day were looking for us to see if we wanted to join them on the eco-trail across the Botswana section as you had to have two vehicles. We would have willingly joined them but a diesel leak at the rear was getting worse and with several suggestions from our fellow travellers I made my mind up that it needed looking at sooner rather than later: to set out across the Kalahari Desert in that state would be foolhardy in case it got worse and we lost all our diesel. Back at Twee Rivieren set up camp and wandered over to reception to hand in our permit, pay for the one night and do a little shopping. We never did see the Swiss couple.

Day 39 - Thursday 19th March Twee Rivieren to Upington After a quick breakfast, ATM withdrawal and wood replenishment, set off for the long haul back to Upington. Having refuelled at Mata Mata and only using about 35 litres so far and probably another 35 litres down to Upington meant the auxiliary tank would be empty but the main one would still be ¾ full, making removal difficult. Drove at a higher speed than normal to burn off a little more and arrived at Upington mid-morning. On reaching Upington the engine rebelled a little, sufficiently enough for me to pull over and switch off: she restarted straightaway and ran perfectly. Computers are all right but … We had Megaworld4x4 on Tracks4africa but finding the road to it was slightly

17 challenging and after driving past it a few times picked up the awkward slip off the elevated dual carriageway.

We thought this might be a good starting point to track down a suitable garage and the chap couldn’t have been more helpful. He phoned the man who looked after his own Defender and confirmed he could help us; then he was in his vehicle leading us to the garage. He delivered us to Werner Jacobs Hersteldienste, the owner who operated out of his back garden in a housing estate. He specialises in Land Rovers and we were ushered in over a pit in the workshop. Before Judi and I could get our things together and alight from the vehicle we had three or four mechanics under the vehicle starting on stripping down the tow bar, tank protector and various other bits. Time now 11 a.m. Chatted with Werner who then drove us back into town and dropped us at the shopping centre saying he would call later and pick us up.

Spent some time in an internet café and then a long leisurely lunch to kill time. The centre was only small and we soon exhausted the Game shop and the Pick ‘n Pay so a little later we wandered back to the Megaworld4x4 where I gave a bottle of whisky to the chap who had gone out of his way to help. Looked round the store, bought a heavy frying pan that would hang from our fire tripod and tried out the various chairs, slowly, very slowly. It got to 5 p.m. when the store would shut so we phoned Werner for an update to be told they were just refitting the bits. The store stayed open for us and at 5.45 p.m. Werner turned up to collect us.

The problem had been a short section of diesel return pipe over the top of the tank that had perished. He showed us the bit and we reckoned it would probably cost a couple of pounds for the part but he then presented us with the bill. Trying to convert it in my head into pounds I thought that can’t be right. Four mechanics had worked on the vehicle from 11a.m. to 6 p.m. and the bill, including labour and parts and a vehicle wash of sorts was the grand total of R961 which equated to about £74: you’d be hard pressed to get one hour’s worth of garage time in the UK for that price. I was so delighted that I gave Werner a bottle of whisky for being so accommodating and for pulling the mechanics off the jobs they had working on and R100 for the mechanics. He said not to as they got paid but I insisted. He recommended a campsite for the night and we made our way to it. It was on an island on the Orange River, a large municipal site but very quiet. Set up camp, ate and went to bed quite early as it was chilling down. A lovely starry night

Day 40 – Friday 20th March Upington After the excitement of yesterday decided to stay put and take it easy. Judi did some washing in the ablution block and made the cleaner’s day by giving her a bag of assorted clothes jettisoned in the last vehicle sort out. I skiddled [A Scottish word meaning, amongst other things, ‘to busy oneself with trivial tasks’ – I’ve always used it; probably thanks to having a Scottish mother] with the vehicle and did some travelpod computing. It got very hot so we wandered over to the pool for a swim to cool down before a short walk along the Orange River within the campsite.

Day 41 – Saturday 21st March Upington to Van Zylsrus Wanted to top up the fuel tank to make sure the leak was actually fixed before leaving Upington so packed up and drove into town for fuel and more provisions as the weekend was nearly upon us and we planned to enter Botswana on Sunday. Even though we would be leaving South Africa soon we drew out another R2000 as we wanted to top up our secret stash of rands, along with our US dollars, as they would be acceptable in many of the other countries in an emergency and in any event we needed R23500 cash in a year’s time for shipping.

18

Visited the internet café again as we weren’t too sure when we would get near one again but, being a Saturday it was closed. There was someone working inside who let us in and on the internet but after a quick email check we left him to it.

Happy the leak was cured it was out on the N14 before turning off onto a good gravel track north towards Botswana. The track took us through ranching country some of which were game farms for meat or hunting so it was a bit surreal to see kudu, impala, springbok and other assorted antelopes fenced in with the cows.

Eventually ended up at a sleepy little town called Van Zylsrus where Tracks4africa showed a campsite that would be ideal for an easy run to the border in the morning. However, having driven around the town centre a couple of times there was still nothing resembling a campsite so we called into the only garage to ask. The attendant was unaware of any campsites nearby but did give us a phone number for the town’s hotel as they had some land and might let us camp there. Phoned and spoke to a lady who owned the hotel who said she probably could help us and to drive to the hotel to see her. Having got directions drove the 100 metres to the hotel! Don’t ask me why the garage chap just didn’t tell us to drive there in the first place. Parked up outside and I negotiated my way past the local drunks, being a weekend leaving Judi locked in the vehicle for security; the vehicle’s rather than hers.

The hotel bar was busy but eventually I found the young lady who confirmed she had some land out of town where we could camp and told me to drive round to the back of the hotel and follow her. We met up and a short way out of town turned off down a track, through a gate and on to some log cabins. She said we could set up outside one of the cabins and use the cabin facilities but it hadn’t been cleaned as yet. We could also use the beds if we wanted but would have to use our own bedding. We agreed upon a price that was half what a cabin should have been.

The cabin had a lovely setting with a balcony looking out over the wooded veld (grazing land) as far as the eye could see with plenty of birds flitting around. Sat on the balcony with our sundowners watching the magnificent sunset. Got a good fire going using some still hot embers from last night’s occupants’ fire. Then remembered that we probably would not be allowed to enter Botswana with any uncooked meat or diary produce so cooked what we could, some for tonight’s dinner and some for cold tomorrow and beyond. The rest we’ll either hide or bluff our way through as we think poultry is okay.

We got a phone call from the lady’s partner, Jacques, interested in our travels as it turned out he knew much about Botswana and Zambia from his overlanding days. He now owned the hotel and the land where we were staying, a hunting ranch but out of season at the moment. Agreed to call in and see them both in the morning as we left to pick his brains as they lived just down the track in a large cabin.

Day 42 – Sunday 22nd March Van Zylsrus to Botswana Packed up and called in to see the two owners and had a coffee with them. The huge cabin had hunting trophies all around and lots of visitors paid lots of money to hunt with Jacques on his ranch. To be honest, I don’t have too much of an issue with this as it takes the pressure off genuine wild animals and can be considered just another form of farming. He gave us some contact names for Botswana and Zambia and advised crossing into Botswana via the McCarthy’s Rest crossing rather than the nearer Middelputs one. We stayed about half an hour and they came out to the vehicle to see

19 us off and said he’d have the vehicle if I was selling it. I explained about the import duties and the carnet that prohibited me selling it but he said people around these parts wouldn’t worry too much about paperwork. He advised me to turn the top of the air intake snorkel at right angles as there were a lot of butterflies around that would quickly clog the air filter.

Set off for the 130 km trip to the border. Judi had been told by someone that even though we had bought a southern African roaming mobile phone she would still have to get it activated before entering the next country. She tried to get some sense out of the operator who basically didn’t know anything about roaming and insisted we didn’t have it. I pulled over just short of the border to sort it out but after a short while it was obvious we were going to have to enter Botswana without a working phone. Just before the border we passed a dead animal on the track that looked like an aardwolf. Stopped to check it out and sure enough it was just that; we’ve never seen one before and would have to be very lucky to see a live one as they are shy nocturnal members of the hyena family.

Arrived at the border crossing late morning and parked up for our first border crossing of the trip. Into Immigration where our passports were exit stamped; next to customs and handed in the carnet. A very officious young policeman took over and marched me over to the vehicle and began a thorough check. He was trying to get the chassis number underneath and asked for a cloth; Judi thought he wanted something to lie on and gave him a groundsheet but he looked at her as if she was stupid. He actually wanted something to wipe the mud and muck off the chassis. I then had to open the bonnet that entails taking off two straps retaining the sand mats and waffle boards before the bonnet can be lifted. He was making lots of notes on his clip board. He then took Judi round the back of the vehicle to inspect the rear contents and opened the sliding drawer before checking the back seats. Finally the inspection was over and I followed him back to the office to, hopefully, get the carnet stamped, leaving Judi with the vehicle.

In the office I was checked on the computer and my driving licence was inspected; eventually he got around to filling in the carnet. He took ages and I tried to be helpful by telling him what to do but just got a stern, ‘I know what I’m doing’. Time to shut up. I was in there so long that poor Judi was beginning to think I had been arrested and locked up so came to find me. She found another official who went to find me but failed, heightening her angst. A few moments later the carnet was stamped and out I walked into the yard, much to Judi’s relief. I suspect the check had been thorough because apparently a lot of stolen vehicles slip out of South Africa, but couldn’t help but wonder if the truth was we were the first to use the crossing on this quiet Sunday morning and the policeman was just bored! We were a bit concerned that if exiting a country was going to be this difficult what would it be like trying to get in to others? And this was the first of many during the year. We left the yard and drove out of South Africa over the dry Molopo River and into Botswana to find out.

And that was us out of South Africa, the first country of the trip but it wouldn’t be our last visit here.

20