여름 SUMMER 2016 Vol.9 No.2 Vol.9

여름 SUMMER 2016 Vol.9 No.2 ISSN 2005-0151ISSN 2005-0151 ISSN 2005-0151ISSN 2005-0151 OnOn the the Cover Cover

Tidal flats are coastal wetlands formed through the long-term deposition of sand and/or mud carried by tides or rivers. They are typically submerged when the tide is high and exposed when it turns. The south- western coast of the Korean Peninsula is enormously rich in inshore islands, a geo- graphical characteristic that has given rise to diverse forms of tidal flats. Blessed with amazing biodiversity, these flats provide unique scenery blending land and water. For more on the southwestern Korean tidal flats, see p. 22. SUMMER Contents 06 07

04 Korean Heritage in Focus Exploration of Korean Heritage 42 Heritage Guardians, Another Heritage in the Making Soesokkak River Pool, a Masterpiece Crafted by Nature The Royal Culture Festival, a Royal Feast for Contemporary Koreans Samgyetang, a Hot Recipe for Fighting Summer Heat Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty on Exhibition

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24 Korean Heritage for the World Cultural Heritage Administration Headlines 52 Tidal Flats on the Southwestern Coast of the Korean Peninsula CHA News A Treasure Trove of Bio- and Geo-Diversity CHA Events Traditional Dyeing Brings out the Colors of Nature Jikji, the Oldest Surviving Evidence of a Major Human Invention Korean Heritage in Focus 08 09

Possessing the DNA of all humanity, cultural heritage also embodies Heritage Guardians, the cultural and historical characteristics unique to a particular group Another Heritage in the Making or civilization. The cultural heritage of South Korea is no exception: it illuminates the ways of life and history of both the Korean people and humanity as a whole. The Korean nation persistently tested a broad range of attempts in its efforts to ensure harmony with nature, achieve prosperity, and Text & photos by Jang Young-ki, Public-Private Partnership Specialist, establish an ideal society. These endeavors were not just geared toward the Promotion Policy Division, Cultural Heritage Administration pursuit of material abundance, but were also fueled by a desire for spiritual peace and concord between human and nature. In the days when Buddhism Cultural heritage is a collection of the cultural and historical legacy of reigned supreme, endeavors were poured into fostering the Buddha’s the past and bears the cherished vestiges and memories of humanity. land on the Korean Peninsula; and when Confucianism was adopted as Embodying information on traditional customs, techniques, and arts, the governing philosophy people strove to create a nation of Confucian cultural heritage is a reminder to contemporary people of the thoughts gentlemen. These pursuits stretching the length of the time-honored history and practices of their ancestors from the past. Cultural heritage does of Korea have left their traces in every corner of the country in the form of for humanity what DNA does for an organism: it informs on the historic buildings and artifacts. It is fair to say that the entire territory can be historical characteristics and evolutionary transformations of our viewed as an open-air museum overflowing with cultural heritage. species. While the significance of cultural heritage has long been prominent in the consciousness of Korean society, approaches to its conservation have been undergoing a transformation that remains in progress. As late as the 1980s, cultural heritage was broadly perceived as a subject for academic research that should remain under rigorous conservation and management. Allowing only limited access by researchers, owners, or managers, this era’s conservation practices for cultural heritage precluded easy public access to historic buildings and monuments. Starting in the 1970s–80s, social and political democratization coinciding with economic growth nurtured more Heritage Guardians scrubbing the floor of democratic ideas and sparked a maturation in a civil society: ideas about Gyeonghoeru Pavilion at cultural rights spread and understanding of traditional culture deepened. It Gyeongbokgung Palace was during the 1990s when books on heritage sites and local cultural traditions began to appear on the shelves of bookstores, and field trips to heritage sites by individuals and groups gained in popularity. While individual and group visits to cultural monuments and sites were becoming more widespread, grassroots movements for the conservation of cultural heritage

Searching for termites (by S-1 Corporation) Korean Heritage in Focus 10 11

Volunteers adhering paper to the doors of a heritage building Showing three-dimensional video clips of artifacts held overseas (LG Electronics)

started to spring up nationwide. Private organizations dedicated to enhancing assumes a secondary role and more toward a popular movement in which the community participation in heritage conservation were soon established. entire nation takes part in heritage conservation.

Amid this social change, the Cultural Heritage Administration, the Designed based around local cultural movements centering on the designated heritage authority for South Korea, has been implementing a participation of local residents, the Heritage Guardians program aims to series of policies for expanding community participation and strengthening extend private efforts at heritage conservation to the national level and public-private partnerships for heritage conservation. In the 1980s and incorporate the heritage field within the scope of corporate social 90s, efforts were made to institutionalize public-private involvement in responsibility. Intended to offer support to voluntary private-sector Children cleaning up the heritage conservation in order to address the limitations inherent to the conservation activities, the program is operated based on individual surroundings of a heritage site government’s heritage management. Programs were introduced such as volunteers who are ready to donate their time and talent, and also on Honorary Managers for Cultural partnerships with corporations and expert groups. Along with enhancing Heritage (in the 1980s) and Cultural cooperation between the public and private sectors, the Heritage Guardians Heritage Administrative Monitors program helps overcome staffing and budget shortfalls in the public (in the 1990s). In 2005, the Cultural conservation system while enhancing the impact of public policy. Since Heritage Administration initiated its launch in 2005, the program has been actively operated as a cultural the One Guardian for One Heritage movement driven by private-sector participation. Under the program, program, also known as the Heritage Heritage Guardians conduct a wide range of activities, including Guardians program, as an effort environmental restoration, heritage monitoring and patrols, education, and to evolve beyond conservation interpretation, all contributing to boosting affection and awareness for mechanisms where the private sector cultural heritage nationwide. Korean Heritage in Focus 12 13

Diverse entities including court artifacts and in increasing the individuals, families, schools, private populations of wildlife designated as organizations, and corporations natural heritage, the donation of metal all participate in the program. The for the restoration of Sungnyemun activities for each category of Gate, of equipment and expert Heritage Guardians are explained workers for turf management at royal below. tombs, and of camera technology for the archiving of artifacts. They Individuals and families not only also provide support for improving visit heritage sites and participate in interpretative signage, visitor centers, experience programs, but also lend and lighting systems, as well as for Tending the grass at a a hand cleaning up the areas around heritage sites. Through these family the training of special detection royal tomb from the Jo- seon Dynasty (by Hanwha activities, children can gain a natural opportunity to experience cultural and dogs to search for termites, which Hotels & Resorts) historical spaces and learn volunteerism. threaten wooden structures. They perform safety checks on electrical At schools, both regular and extracurricular classes and group activities service and monitor for gas leakages on cultural heritage are held. Cultural heritage is used as a means to in historic villages. The purchase of provide education on history and local culture and to develop a spirit of cultural objects located overseas and volunteerism. their three-dimensional recording is another area for corporate Conducting cultural activities at the grassroots level over the course participation. As of December of decades, private organizations have developed and operated a diverse 2015, 55 enterprises have joined the range of programs, including public education, volunteer programs, cultural Cultural Heritage Administration as experiences, and heritage monitoring. They also recommend heritage sites heritage conservation partners. and monuments that are of value but have not yet been officially registered Engaging in disease- on heritage lists and received the subsequent conservation. They also offer The expansion of civil society and the subsequent emergence of public prevention activities for a chance to other social entities, such as individuals, families, schools, volunteer activities for heritage conservation and the introduction and oak trees at the palaces and royal tombs (Samsung and military groups, to participate in heritage preservation activities by entrenchment of heritage policy for public-private partnerships have steadily C & T) supporting their volunteer conservation efforts. produced positive achievements in heritage conservation in South Korea. Besides their more tangible results, these efforts have also contributed Corporations also vigorously participate in and provide support to enhancing awareness about the significance of heritage conservation: for heritage conservation through the provision of financial and human cultural heritage has been transformed from a pursuit open exclusively to resources. Their areas of involvement include heritage conservation and officials, experts, and collectors into conservation and protection being management, facility maintenance, safety management, improving visitor performed through the efforts of the entire community. It can also be said experiences, purchasing artifacts, providing educational and cultural that the public no longer considers itself passive consumers of cultural experiences, organizing performances and exhibitions, nurturing experts, heritage, but as its active transmitters. This vibrant voluntary community funding research, supporting promotional campaigns, and developing participation can also represent a proud aspect of our cultural heritage in the content. Specific examples include participation in the conservation of royal future. Korean Heritage in Focus 14 15

The Royal Culture Festival offers an opportunity to appreciate the royal culture of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), creatively reinterpret the history and culture of the royal palaces, and discover novel values for cultural heritage. A convergence of the tangible and intangible heritage of the palaces with contemporary technology and modern ideals, the Royal Culture Festival proved a successful and popular event once again in 2016.

Royal Culture Festival Launched in 2015

The Royal Culture Festival was first introduced in May of last year. The nine-day event notched remarkable achievements, such as raising public awareness of the significance of royal culture, suggesting novel ways of making use of heritage, and testing the effectiveness of a variety of pilot interpretation programs. The festival took place at the four royal palaces—Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, and Deoksugung— and at the royal ancestral shrine of Jongmyo in Seoul. Each of these five The royal kitchen experi- ence at Sojubang Kitchen, venues featured a distinctive set of programs: royal guard and military Gyeongbokgung Palace rituals, tea ceremonies, experience of royal costumes, and nighttime tours at (2015)

A reenactment of a royal banquet from 1892 (2016) Gyeongbokgung Palace; interpretation programs in the rear garden and tours accompanied by performances at Changgyeonggung Palace; a presentation of the king’s daily life and interactive reenactments at Changdeokgung Palace; storytelling about Emperor Gojong and performances at Deoksugung Palace; and royal court rituals at Jongmyo Shrine. The Royal Culture Festival, a Royal A martial arts performance by the Ministry of National Defense’s Traditional Feast for Contemporary Koreans Guard, part of the opening The 2016 Event: A Successful Popular Festival ceremony for the 2016 Royal Culture Festival

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Drawing upon the success of the first event, the 2nd Royal Culture Festival was organized for April 29 to May Photos by Hwang Man-bok and the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation 8, 2016. Starting with an opening ceremony on April 29, the 2016 festival presented a colorful array of programs in each of the five festival arenas—the four royal palaces and Jongmyo Shrine—taking advantage of the historical and spatial characteristics of each space. According to their personal interests and tastes, visitors could choose from any of the 33 programs on offer. Korean Heritage in Focus 16 17

While the first session of the festival was meaningful for creating new At Changdeokgung Palace, the reading in the rear garden program cultural content by combining tangible and intangible cultural heritage with allowed visitors to freely read books at four pavilions in the rear garden modern technologies, this year’s festival was successful for instilling a (Yeonghwadang, Jondeokjeong, Chwigyujeong, and Nongsanjeong tremendous vibrancy and broad public interest into the event. Efforts were Pavilions), and the Naeuiwon royal pharmacy experience “Meeting with made to assist the public to discover a greater interest in the festival and the Royal Physician Heo Jun” (at Seongjeonggak Hall) provided Korean encourage people’s participation in the programs. Starting in late March, medicinal treatment to visitors free of charge. the process of public applications for participation was opened for programs such as the royal culture experience, photo exhibition, and reenactments of Changgyeonggung Palace and Deoksugung Palace historical events. Online reservation services also played a role in attracting also offered experience programs including an exhibition public interest during the lead-up to the festival. on the private life of King Jeongjo “King Jeongjo’s Pastime: Calligraphy and Painting” (at Yeongchunheon and Jipbokheon Halls in Changgyeonggung Palace) A Colorful Array of Programs that demonstrated the artistic accomplishments of the Joseon court through a display of artworks produced The 2016 Royal Culture Festival offers 33 programs ranging from by King Jeongjo; the interactive reenactment “Time reading in the palace, a public photo exhibition, palace concerts, narrated Travel to 1750” (at various spaces in Changgyeonggung The interactive reenact- tours, to royal rituals. The programs can be grouped into five themes— Palace) which staged everyday events in the lives of the king and other ment “Time Travel to 1750” at Changgyeong- experience, exhibition, performance, exploration, and ritual—as follows. palace denizens featuring the participation of actors selected from among gung Palace (2016) the public; the reenactment of the everyday life of King Yeongjo (at various spaces in Changgyeonggung Palace) presenting historic episodes related to Experience Programs: Seeing, Hearing, and Feeling the Palaces the king; and the Daehan Empire and coffee program where visitors enjoyed a cup of hand-made coffee at Jeonggwanheon Pavilion in Deoksugung The 2016 Royal Culture Festival featured a diverse range of experience Palace. programs demonstrating that the royal palaces are not simply historical remnants, but useful cultural resources with value for the present. Experience programs at Gyeongbokgung Palace include the royal kitchen Exhibition Programs: Displaying the Beauty of the Palaces Students reading books in the rear garden of experience program “A Taste of Royal Cuisine” that allowed visitors to Changdeokgung Palace enjoy royal culinary achievements at the royal kitchen Sojubang; the royal Programs hosting exhibitions within the historic (left); visitors receiving traditional Korean culture experience (at Hamhwadang and Jipgyeongdang Halls) where space of a palace drew the attention of many visitors. medicine treatments at participants enjoyed a rare chance to spend a night in the palace; and a royal At Gyeongbokgung Palace, a photo exhibition on the Changdeokgung Palace (right) library program that opened Jibokjae Hall to the public as a reading library. traditional Korean costume hanbok displayed 50 works selected from a public photo contest along the roofed corridor in the Geunjeongjeon Hall compound. The royal calligraphy on the signboards of palace halls program “Plaques in Royal Handwriting” exhibited 10 signboards inscribed in the handwriting of nine Joseon kings in the permanent exhibition The media façade show hall of the National Palace Museum of Korea. Additionally, a media façade at Heungnyemun Gate, Gyeongbokgung Palace show projected colorful rays of light onto the façade of Heungnyemun Gate (2016) every night throughout the festival. Korean Heritage in Focus 18 19

In the roofed corridors of the Injeongjeon Hall compound at spots around the palace, including Injeongjeon Hall, Nakseonjae Hall, and Changdeokgung Palace, an exhibition of royal poems and palace photos called Buyongji Pond, accompanied by narratives from an actor that helped visitors “Royal Insight through Poems and Photos” displayed poetry composed by enjoy the history and culture of the palace in a unique fashion. During a Joseon kings conveying their affection for the country and people alongside botanical tour drawing inspiration from the painting Donggwoldo (Painting photos capturing the aesthetic scenery of this palace. Deoksugung Palace of the Eastern Palaces), visitors wandered the palace locating trees similar served as an exhibition space for a contemporary art program that displayed to those described in Donggwoldo under the guidance of an expert in an works from representative Korean modern artists in various places around the effort to make comparisons between the past and present of Changdeokgung The invited international palace. Palace. royal court performances in the area in front of Heungnyemun Gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace (2016) Performance Programs: Pleasing the Eyes and Ears Ritual Programs: Drawing Participants back to the Past

Concerts and plays put on at the palaces added Reenactments of royal rituals from the Joseon to the enjoyment and satisfaction of visitors. Invited Dynasty were an essential part of the 2016 Royal Culture international royal court performances featuring the Festival. Ritual programs included the royal feast of court music and dance of Thailand, Japan, and Vietnam 1892 (at Geunjeongjeon Hall in Gyeongbokgung Palace) were held every night throughout the festival in the that presented a reenactment of a royal banquet held in area in front of Heungnyemun Gate of Gyeongbokgung 1892 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of Emperor Palace. Evening concerts were presented at Gyeonghoeru Gojong’s reign; the royal ancestral ritual, a reenactment Pavilion, a space in which the king formerly held of the Joseon court ritual for the spirit tablets of the kings

banquets. The outdoor historical drama “King Injo at the and queens enshrined at Jeongjeon and Yeongnyeongjeon Halls in the World The royal ancestral ritual End of the Road” was performed in Munjeongjeon Hall in Changdeokgung Heritage Site of Jongmyo; and the myohyeollye ritual, also at Jongmyo, a at Jongmyo Shrine (2016) Palace, generating a passionate response from the audience. At Deoksugung reenactment of a ritual performed in the form of a visit to royal ancestors by Palace, the concert “Aria for the Emperor” was held in Seokjojeon, the a crown princess following her marriage. first Western-style building in Korea, and concerts featuring Western music were held at Junghwajeon Hall. A nighttime royal ancestral ritual music Efforts will continue to be made to improve the performance was offered at Jeongjeon Hall in Jongmyo to allow visitors to cultural content embodied in the festival, promote the enjoy this UNESCO-inscribed ritual music live and in person. visitor experience, and expand the range of participating

Visitors waiting for partner agencies and groups. The third iteration of a nighttime tour of the Royal Culture Festival scheduled for 2017 will be Changdeokgung Palace (2016) Exploration Programs: Boosting Understanding of the Palaces designed in reflection of the monitoring of this year’s event in order to emphasize the programs that received Alongside the experience programs, exploration positive responses from visitors and make the event more

programs greatly contributed to public understanding of interactive and people-oriented. It is strongly hoped that the Royal Culture The 2016 Royal Culture the Joseon royal court. Changdeokgung Palace adopted Festival will become established as an arena where the public can easily Festival, a popular and jubilant occasion for all, novel approaches in order to convey the history of the interact in a friendly manner with cultural heritage and further as a conduit regardless of gender, age, Joseon court and the palace to the public. The nighttime for making Korean culture better understood around the world. or nationality promenade program took participants throughout various Korean Heritage in Focus 20 21

Hyeolleung, the royal tomb of King Munjong

Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty From June 21–August 28, the National Palace Museum of Korea is planning to host the special exhibition The Royal Tombs of on Exhibition the Joseon Dynasty Embody the Spirit of the Royal Court. The exhibition spotlights four main aspects of the Joseon royal tombs: their construction, constituent elements, rituals, and management. Text & photos by Park Su-hee, Researcher, National Palace Museum of Korea Korean Heritage in Focus 22 23

Royal Tombs, a Living Testimony to the Culture and History of Joseon

Throughout human history, it is difficult to find another example besides Joseon of a dynasty lasting more than 500 years. Enduring for 519 years from 1392 to 1910, Joseon was governed by the successive reigns of 27 monarchs from the first ruler King Taejong (r. 1392–1398) to the 27th, King Sunjong (r. 1907–1910). Equally as extensive as this history were the devastating conflicts and subsequent national threats which wrecked severe havoc on historic monuments and artifacts throughout the era. Despite the historical suffering, the royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty have survived

nearly intact to the present, invoking awe and admiration among people 3 4 today (photos 1 and 2). It is also hard to find another example of tombs of 3. Architectural buildings at Mongneung, the royal tomb of King Seonjo 4. Landscape‌ of Jangneung, the royal tomb of King rulers that have been maintained in the pristine condition of the royal tombs Wonjong (posthumously titled), the father of King Seonjo of the Joseon Dynasty. The unique value of the Joseon royal tombs has been globally recognized, and the 40 royal tombs of Joseon (excluding the two currently located in North Korean territory) were listed as a UNESCO World exhibition. The relevant affiliated organizations of the Cultural Heritage Heritage Site in 2009. Administration—the National Palace Museum of Korea, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, and Management Office of the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty—are cooperating to put on the special exhibition The Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty Embody the Spirit of the Royal Court at the National Palace Museum of Korea in Seoul from June 21 to August 28.

Under Confucian ideology, the kings and queens were perceived as sacred beings with absolute authority and enormous dignity, and as their residence in the afterlife their tombs were imbued with the same level of sacredness as their living residences, the royal palaces. Accordingly, the entire process of royal tomb establishment, from selecting a site to the construction, meticulously followed the strict principles of national rites.

1 2 Upon completion, the royal tombs were subject to rigorous management

1. Geonwolleung, the royal tomb of King Taejo 2. Yureung, the royal tomb of King Sunjong as a space where the guardian spirits of the royal court reside and where national rituals are performed. As such, the Joseon royal tombs are an arena that epitomizes the architecture, landscaping, sculpture, and rituals of the dynasty’s 500-year history in both tangible and intangible forms. Therefore, A Special Chance to Explore the Royal Tombs Indoors understanding the royal tombs can be broadly equated with understanding the history and culture of the Joseon Dynasty itself (photos 3, 4, and 5). This summer there will be an opportunity to explore the Joseon royal tombs and their importance from both a national and international perspective, not by personally visiting the sites but through an Korean Heritage in Focus 24 25

Four Themes of the Exhibition

The exhibition is presented through four distinct themes. The first theme “Royal Tombs, Constructed” introduces the construction of royal tombs that was executed as part of national funeral rites. Records on funerary procedures and the artifacts used, as well as photos and paintings 7 vividly depicting the funerals and the royal tombs 7. Cheoljongdaewang‌ gukjang dogam uigwe (Royal Protocol on the will all be on display. In an effort to ensure an easy National Funeral of King Cheoljong) understanding of this rather serious theme, a short animation has also been prepared (photos 7 and 8). 5 The second segment of the exhibition, “Royal Tombs, Constituted,” spotlights the interior and exterior elements of a royal tomb through relevant artifacts As the national heritage agency in charge of the conservation of the 5. Jeongneung, the royal and writings. Inheriting traditions from the previous tomb of King Jungjong Joseon royal tombs, the Cultural Heritage Administration has made ongoing polities that governed the Korean Peninsula, the efforts to support related academic research. In 2015, ten years of the Joseon Dynasty harmonized these traditions with the Administration’s research results were compiled as Report on Research into new dynastic philosophy to create a unique tomb style the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty (photo 6). The Administration has that was maintained throughout its history of more also put significant effort into boosting public understanding of and access than 500 years with no significant transformations. It to the royal tombs. These long-standing endeavors will be evidenced at the is notable that this exhibition displays grave goods to 8 special exhibition displaying a wide range of relevant artifacts and materials the public for the first time in history (photo 9). 8. A map of Myeongneung, the royal tomb of King Sukjong under different themes.

6. Report on Research into the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty

9 6 9. Artifacts excavated from the original burial site of King Jeongjo Korean Heritage in Focus 26 27

10. A ritual performed at The last theme, “Royal Tombs, Managed,” the Geonwolleung Royal exhibits a diverse range of the preservation efforts Tomb being exerted at the royal tombs. The Joseon court dispatched managers to each tomb and mobilized laborers for their conservation. The systematic efforts of the Joseon Dynasty toward the conservation of the royal tombs, which have been maintained until today, are demonstrated through the 12 display of relevant objects bearing historical records 12. Geolleungji, the funer- (photo 12). ary records of Geolleung, or the royal tomb of King Jeongjo

10 Educational Programs at the Exhibition

The exhibition also offers visitors a chance to personally experience Under the third theme, “Royal Tombs, Commemorated,” a range of a Joseon royal tomb through a virtual reality (VR) video. Prepared in an rituals related to the royal tombs is presented. During the Joseon Dynasty, underground hall, the VR experience arena draws visitors into a royal tomb several times each year the king and his courtiers visited the tombs of space and allows them to tour the tomb complex and, notably, the burial preceding kings for the purpose of observing rituals, a practice which was mound, which is normally off limits to the public. The VR video encourages charged with major importance as a demonstration of filial piety, one of visitors to complete a few simple missions during their tour of the tomb, an the fundamental governing principles of Joseon. This tradition has been exciting experience designed to provoke genuine interest in the royal tombs transmitted to the present: the descendants of the royal court still perform among children. A video clip that shows the actual appearances of the royal 11. A folding screen an annual ritual to their ancestors at the 40 royal tombs (photo 10). Including tombs has also been prepared. depicting the royal proces- this one, selected rituals conducted at the royal tombs are explained through a sion of King Jeongjo to the tomb of his father display of related objects and documents (photo 11). In addition, a wide range of educational programs for elementary school students are available at the exhibition, such as completing a sheet of questions about the royal tombs and actually visiting a Joseon royal tomb with family members.

11 Korean Heritage for the World 28 29

Tidal Flats on the Southwestern Coast of the Korean Peninsula A Treasure Trove of Bio- and Geo-Diversity

Text by Moon Kyong-o, Secretary General, World Heritage Promotion Team of Korean Tidal Flats

Photos by Moon Kyong-o, Seocheon-gun county, Sinan-gun county, Goodimage and Topicimages

The southwestern coast of the Korean Peninsula is superbly rich in both biological and geological diversity. These natural endowments also create a bountiful environment for fulfilling human needs, engendering great cultural diversity in the area as well.

As the sky is embroidered with clusters of stars, the southwestern coast of the Korean Peninsula sparkles with a galaxy of islands. Unlike the stars twinkling in the night sky, however, the islets dotting the southwestern shoreline undergo a transformation twice per day. Found mainly in intertidal areas, the islands float in the sea at high tide, but during low tide they can be seen to protrude from tidal flats. Consisting essentially of rocks, the islands belong both to the land and the sea, and the tidal flats formed around them and along the coast present both a unique landscape and a stunning seascape. The tidal flats along the southwestern Korean coast are an intriguing natural heritage site boasting diverse scenery.

Tidal flats are areas formed in bays or estuaries where sediments carried landward from the sea or brought down by rivers are deposited across a flat, wide basin. Appearing along shorelines, tidal flats come in three types according to their main components: sand flats, mixed (sand and mud) flats, and mud flats. Once transported to a shore, sediments are deposited in the upper reaches of the area when they are light, and in the lower reaches when they are heavy. It is typical for a coastal tidal flat to have mud sediment in its upper reaches, a mixture of mud and sand in the middle, and sand deposits in its lower areas.

Suncheonman Bay on the southern coast of the country Korean Heritage for the World 30 31

Jeungdo Island in the Sinan archipelago The Garyong-ri area of the Sinan archipelago Sand crab, one of the tidal flat organisms Spoonbill sandpiper

However, the tidal flats appearing along the southwestern coast of the The geographical and geological diversity along the southwestern coast Korean Peninsula cannot be fully explained using the typical descriptions. also creates a fertile ground for biodiversity. Formed in shapes as diverse One case in point of the special characteristics of Korean tidal flats is the and complex as the islands themselves, the tidal channels and waterways archipelago in the Sinan area, where more than 1,000 islands—small and distribute nutrients to the tidal flats like arteries delivering oxygen through large—are irregularly positioned around the area. While the islands mainly the human body. The aesthetic beauty engendered by the geometric lines are grouped in clusters of small islands surrounding a larger one, those of the tidal channels and waterways is a further advantage of the area. located offshore serve to protect inshore ones. These geological features of Encompassing diverse ecosystems—ocean, tidal flat, sand dune, and land— the southwestern coast characterized by its numerous islands have given the southwestern coast is unique for the wide range of flora and fauna rise to diverse varieties of tidal flats along the boundaries of the islands and developed within a narrow area, which can also be attributed to the influence the shore. The northwestern section of the archipelago, which is further of the monsoon. The halophytes, dune vegetation, and seashore plants offshore, developed sand flats under the influence of northwesterly winds; living along the southwestern tidal flats help to accelerate the deposition of the northeastern and southwestern portions, which form the middle section sediments and prevent their erosion, filter of the archipelago, are characterized by mixed flats of sand and mud; and the out pollutants, and increase the provision Blue spotted mud hopper, one of the tidal flat southeastern, inshore section is dominated by mud flats. The tidal channels of oxygen to lower strata, thus facilitating organisms and waterways formed in geometric shapes around the islands demonstrate a the survival of other living organisms. The rare tidal flat system where a layer of mud deposits is covered by a mixture thick layers of oxygen that develop in the of mud and sand and then further by sand. The thickly deposited mud flats in tidal flats provide a friendly environment the southeastern part of the archipelago are a place of “accumulated time,” for a diverse benthos (creatures living on where the tidal flat is not in fact formed as a flat but in a mound shape and the seabed). Compared to the Wadden therefore might be better called a “tidal mound.” Sea of Northern Europe, which has about 160 varieties of macro-benthos across a wide-stretching area of 14,000 square kilometers, the southwestern Korean Korean Heritage for the World 32 33

Hooded crane (Natural Monument No. 228) at Suncheonman Bay A group of Nordmann's greenshank

tidal flats comprise about 600 square kilometers and are home to as many as finds dating to prehistoric times, demonstrating that despite their isolation, approximately 600 varieties of macro-benthos. The presence of about four the islands have long offered an auspicious environment for human times more benthos species in an area only about 4.2 percent of the Waden occupation. In the tidal flats along the southwestern Korean coast, humans Sea in size speaks volumes about the richness of the biodiversity in the tidal have made wise use of the local environment, striking a perfect harmony flats along Korea’s southwestern coast. between people and nature. The human activities that have been conducted for thousands of years have become a part of nature, and are currently This abundance of flora and fauna provides an important food source practiced as a living culture unique to the tidal flats. for migratory birds. The southwestern tidal flats serve as a stopover site for roughly half a million migratory birds from the 400 species traveling the The tidal flats formed along the southwestern coast of the Korean East Asian-Australasian Flyway. They include about 20 species protected Peninsula epitomize geological diversity and resultant biodiversity, which by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Natural have contributed favorably for human development and engendered cultural Resources (IUCN) through designation on its Red List, including the diversity. Preserving this diversity embodied by the southwestern tidal spoonbill sandpiper, black-faced spoonbill, and Nordmann's greenshank. flats is certain to comprise an important aspect of the current generation’s historical mission. As one part of this effort, endeavors are being made to Rich biodiversity also provides favorable conditions for the formation of inscribe the tidal flats along the southwestern coast of the Korean Peninsula human settlements. The southwestern islands have revealed archaeological on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Korean Heritage for the World 34 35

Dyeing craftsmen have traditionally been valued for their significance Traditional Dyeing to Korean society. Creating colors in textiles using natural materials Brings out the is no simple task and requires a complex series of procedures that can be completed only through the dyer’s knowledge and experience. Colors of Nature Fading with the introduction of chemical dyes, traditional dyeing skills have been revived thanks to the efforts of dedicated dyers, represented by Jung Kwan-chae. Text by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation

Photos by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation and Jung Kwan-chae Traditional Dye Materials from Nature

Dyeing is a process of applying color to materials using dyes and other pigments, which can be derived from natural sources or from chemical synthesis. Before the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856, dyes were exclusively extracted from animal, vegetable, or mineral sources.

In Korea, nail pigmentation and facial make-up traditionally relied on natural dyes, and could be made from flower petals, plant stalks, or fruit rinds. Historical accounts relate that Koreans were able to create as many as about 100 colors from some 50 varieties of plant through the application of diverse dyeing methods and various types of mordant.

Traditional Value of Dyeing Artists

Textile dyeing has been inscribed on the intangible cultural heritage list of South Korea, and one master of this traditional art is registered as the Natural Dyeing Master, or Yeomsaekjang. The process of extracting colors from nature and embedding them in textiles involves a complex and delicate set of procedures that can be completed only through the considerable experience and seasoned skills of the dyeing master in charge.

Records found in the “Treatise on Dongyi” from the Chinese history Hou han shu (History of the Later Han) and in the Korean history Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms) testify to the long history of valuing the significance of natural dyeing and dyeing masters, dating back to ancient times in the Korean Peninsula at least prior to the establishment of the Three Kingdoms (57 B.C.–A.D. 668). During the Three Kingdoms period, a color law was introduced in the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.–A.D. 660)

Indigo-dyed textiles Korean Heritage for the World 36 37

that forbade the use of violet and celadon-green textiles by commoners in Jung Kwan-chae, the Transmitter of Indigo Dyeing an attempt to distinguish the ruling class from the peasantry. In the official attire regulations of Silla (57 B.C.–A.D. 935), fabrics of four distinct Jung Kwan-chae is the current designated master of natural dyeing. colors—violet, celadon-green, blue, and yellow—were adopted to express Indigo dyeing has been transmitted through the generations of Jung’s family different levels of officialdom. A separate agency in charge of dyeing called since his great-grandfather, making him the fourth generation to continue Doyeomseo was established during the Goryeo period (918–1392), and in the family occupation of natural dyeing. His hometown, Saetgol Village during the Joseon Dynasty dyers were hired by the royal court and assigned in Naju, South Jeolla Province, is endowed with ideal geographical and the responsibility of dyeing in respective colors. With the advent of the natural conditions for the growth of indigo plants. Therefore, dyeing cloth modernization process in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, chemical with indigo has long been practiced by not only his family, but by the entire dyes were introduced into Korea and traditional natural dyeing gradually village as well. declined. The reinvigoration and transmission of traditional dyeing skills are mainly attributed to the persistent efforts of a handful of dyeing masters. Born into an area renowned for indigo dyeing, Jung naturally encountered indigo plants and the dyeing process as part of Indigo, the Color of Heaven his everyday life as a child. However, it was not until his university days that Jung The theory of Wu Xing, or the Five Elements, developed a genuine interest in indigo dominated traditional Korean philosophy, and dyeing through a gift of indigo seeds from notions about color were not excluded. In this classic one of his professors. Since his graduation, conception there are five cardinal colors—red, blue, Jung has been practicing indigo dyeing yellow, white, and black—and among them is a special while maintaining a job teaching arts at blue created by indigo dye. Indigo can produce a wide middle and high schools. The experience range of blue hues, including pure blue, green, deep and knowledge accumulated by his mother blue, deep green, blue-green, deep bluish violet, and and grandmother over their lifetimes has yellow-green. These colors in various shades of blue been a great boon to Jung in his practice as and green were used in the clothing for queens, crown a natural dyeing master. princes, high officials and scholars, and were also widely worn by commoners. Indigo dye was mainly When Jung entered the field of natural extracted from Persicaria tinctoria (Chinese indigo) dyeing, terms like “natural,” “organic” and Commelina communis (Asiatic dayflower), but or “environmentally friendly” did not mulberry leaves were also used. attract as much popular attention as they do today. The worries and concerns that What renders the expression of indigo distinct from were expressed regarding his choice Jung Kwan-chae, the other colors is that it is not present in nature and can be were not enough to dampen his commitment to natural dyeing. Thanks traditional dyeing master Indigo fabric dyed in the of South Korea traditional manner by Jung brought out only through intricate dyeing procedures. The indigo color is to his incessant effort toward the practice of indigo dyeing, Jung became Kwan-chae in 2007 developed only after an oxidization and reduction process in the dye. Indigo nationally recognized as the master of natural dyeing in 2001 at the age of dyeing is a task that requires a great deal of time and effort and demands a 42, the youngest among the designated masters of traditional crafts at the high level of experience and expertise. Consequently, indigo-colored textiles time. Without resorting to the help of modern tools such as pH measuring were traditionally very expensive. Korean Heritage for the World 38 39

instruments or thermometers, Jung Kwan-chae is able to superbly complete using indigo plants is performed through a process of oxidization and the entire process of indigo dyeing, including making and fermenting reduction. A substance known as indoxyl created during the fermentation of a solution with an indigo sediment, creating his own quality lime, and indigo plants can function as a dye after encountering oxygen. Because of applying dye to cloth. The designation of Jung Kwan-chae as the master this oxidization and reduction process, the color of the textiles deepens as of natural dyeing takes on further meaning considering it is a revival of they dry and as the soaking and drying is repeated. Darker shades of blue traditional dyeing practices of which the transmission was discontinued after can be obtained through a repeated process of soaking and drying. the Korean War of 1950–53.

Jung is currently working to bring the value and significance of natural dyeing to national and international attention: he offers lectures on traditional dyeing to the general public and at universities, and also puts on exhibitions and demonstrations of natural dyeing. Nurturing the next generation of practitioners is one of his primary missions. His workshop, the

Transmission Center for Natural Dyeing, was established on family property 1. Oyster‌ shells are processed to produce lime for 2. ‌Indigo plants are put in an earthen jar and 3. After‌ fermentation, the indigo plant material at the place where Jung was born. Located near the indigo fields in Naju, indigo dyeing. fermented. is removed. the workshop is open year-round to anyone interested in learning about traditional natural dyeing.

Procedures of Indigo Dyeing

Persicaria tinctoria, the The complicated process of indigo dyeing begins with the sowing of indigo plants used for dyeing indigo seeds in March–April. The plants are harvested in early August at

about 60–70 centimeters. Next, the plant 4. Lime‌ is mixed with the water fermented with 5. Indigo dye in finished form 6. Coloring a textile with indigo dye material is placed in an earthen jar with indigo A textile is colored with indigo dye. water, and after two days of fermentation the plants are removed and lime hand-made from oyster shells is introduced into the jar to produce indigo sediment. The water is drained from the jar, and the remaining indigo sediment is removed and thoroughly dried. The indigo sediment is then blended with lye (sodium hydroxide) to sit for an additional seven to ten days of aging. Finally, the indigo dye is separated from the lime when bubbles appear on top. This separated dye is known as “flower water” and is ready to be used as a natural dye for cloth.

Clean fabric is soaked in the “flower water” for three–five minutes and then taken out to dry. This soaking and drying process is repeated. Dyeing Indigo-dyed cloth Korean Heritage for the World 40 41

Inscribed on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register, Jikji is the oldest existing document produced through movable metal type printing. This book offers an eloquent testimony to the wisdom of the Korean people, who developed movable type printing for the first time in the world.

Historical Records of Earlier Movable Metal Type Documents

Throughout human evolution, means of communication have undergone a continuous process of improvement: at first, bodily gestures were the only method of communication, but then speech and eventually writing systems were created. The introduction of printing, broadcasting, and the Internet followed suit. Along this developmental trajectory, the advent of movable metal type stands out for its significant contribution to the availability of mass communication. Korea is recognized as the first country in the world to produce movable metal type, a technology that made an immense contribution to the dissemination of information.

It has been recorded that movable metal type was developed in Korea in the early 13th century. A woodblock print of Nammyeong cheon hwasangsong jeungdoga (Song of Enlightenment with Commentaries by Buddhist Monk Nammyeong) from 1239 recounts in the epilogue written by the Goryeo official Choi I that the woodblock version is a copy of a print made with metal movable type, testifying that there was a movable metal type version of the book at least prior to The Goryeo-era book The cover of Jikji the year 1239. In addition, the 1241 compilation by the Goryeo literary Nammyeong cheon scholar Lee Gyu-bo, Dongguk isangguk jip (Anthology of Writings of Mr. hwasangsong jeungdoga Lee in the Eastern Country) records that 28 copies of Sangjeong gogeum (Song of Enlightenment with Commentaries by yemun (Prescribed Ritual Texts of the Past and Present) were printed using Buddhist Monk Nammy- Jikji, the Oldest Surviving Evidence eong) contains a record of movable metal type and separately deposited. It is unfortunate that neither an earlier movable metal of these two books that are recorded as having been printed using movable type print. of a Major Human Invention metal type technology have survived to the present. However, there is a movable metal type example from 1377: Baegun hwasang chorok buljo jikji simche yojeol (Anthology of Great Buddhist Priests’ Zen Teachings), Text by Hwang Jeong-ha, Head of the Research Division, Cheongju Early Printing Museum also known as Jikji simche yocheol, or Jikji for short, which was printed Photos by Hwang Jeong-ha and Goodimage at Heungdeoksa Temple in Cheongju, Korea, in 1377. It is presently held in the collection of the National Library of France (Bibliothque Nationale Korean Heritage for the World 42 43

de France). As the world’s oldest existing movable metal type print, Jikji boundaries are inserted between the columns. Each page consists of 11 is concrete evidence of Korea’s early invention of this crucial printing columns of 17–20 Chinese characters each. technology. The characteristics of the font and printing conditions of Jikji are as follows: Production of Jikji ① ‌Rows and columns of the text are not neatly aligned; some characters are slanted. Jikji was compiled by the Buddhist monk Gyeonghan (1298–1374), also ② ‌The ink application is uneven, and there are parts that have been known by the pen name Baegun. Ordained as a child, Monk Baegun pursued touched up with a thin brush. teachings from the Chinese monk Shiwu Qinggong and Indian monk Ji ③ ‌Some types are set in a disorderly manner or even upside-down; Gong on his way to enlightenment. others did not set. ④ ‌A character that appears more than once on a single page appears With the help of his disciple Beomnin, Baegun excerpted important different in each occurrence, but when it recurs on a different page, comments from the teachings of the Buddha and selected major patriarchs it looks the same, demonstrating that pieces of type were used and compiled them into the two-volume book Jikji. Summarizing the repeatedly when printing different pages. essence of the Tripitaka Koreana and other illuminating Zen teachings, Jikji ⑤ Two printing plates were used. is recognized as a principal Zen text. These features confirm thatJikji was printed through movable metal After Baegun entered into Nirvana, his students Seokchan and Daljam type printing. What is more, the book contains an account in the last chapter commemorated the great monk’s achievements with prints of Jikji using describing the date, place, and method of printing: it is noted in this section movable metal type at Heungdeoksa Temple in July 1377. that it is a movable metal type print produced in July 1377 at Heungdeoksa Temple.

Details of the Printing of Jikji Why is Jikji located in France? The Jikji copy produced at Heungdeoksa Temple has been transmitted to the present in only a single volume, with the original Volume 1 missing. The current presence of Jikji in the National Library of France Initially consisting of 39 chapters, the first chapter of Volume 2 has been rather than in Korea, can be explained starting with Victor Collin de lost as well, leaving only 38. Plancy (1853–1922). As the first French consul to Korea after the two countries entered diplomatic relations in 1886. Collin de Plancy The Jikji print Baegun hwasang was highly interested in Korean art and is known to have married chorok buljo jikji simche measures 24.6 by 17 the court dancer Lee Sim. He served two diplomatic stints in Korea yojeol (Anthology of Great Buddhist Priests’ Zen centimeters in total and collected a great number of artifacts, including Jikji and other Teachings) length and width, and historical books. He also contributed to making Korean culture the printing plate is 21 better known in the wider world by taking charge of organizing a Henri Vever, who bought by 14.8 centimeters. The Korean gallery at the International Exhibition of 1900 in Paris. One Jikji at the auction house printing plate is edged of the exhibits in this gallery was Jikji. Hôtel Drouot in 1911 with a single line, and Korean Heritage for the World 44 45

In 1911 he placed a collection of 883 items up for sale with the auction Global Significance of Movable Type Printing house Hôtel Drouot, including about 700 artifacts from Korea. Most of the items were purchased by the National Library of France, except for Jikji, China developed a form of movable type in 1041 based on ceramic type which was handed over to Henri Vever (1854–1942) for 180 franc. Having pieces. After its initial invention, movable type printing was not further remained under his ownership, Jikji was eventually donated to the National developed in China, and people there continued to rely on woodblock Library of France in 1952 by his grandson François Mautin in accordance printing. It seems that no practical value was found for the technology and it with Henri’s will. failed to be put to popular use.

The significance ofJikji remained obscured until 1972 when the French In Korea, as explained above, historical records indicate that movable library organized an exhibition of books in its collection in commemoration metal type was applied to the printing of books from the early 13th century. of International Book Day as designated by UNESCO. Jikji was placed on Jikji, produced in July 1377 using movable metal type, survives as tangible display at the time, and after the exhibition it was discovered that it was evidence of Korea’s early discovery of movable metal type technology. In not Johannes Gutenberg in Germany, but actually monks in Korea that had addition, as many as 60 varieties of typefaces for movable metal type were applied movable metal type for the first time in the world. in use during the Joseon Dynasty, including Gyemija (invented in 1403), Gyeongjaja (1420), and Gabinja (1434). This indicates that Korea succeeded in applying movable type technology to popular uses. Inscription on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register In Europe, movable type diffused widely throughout the continent After Jikji was opened to the public, the site of its printing place, after the introduction of mechanical movable type printing in the mid-15th Heungdeoksa Temple, was confirmed in 1985. In March 1992 the Cheongju century by Johannes Gutenberg of Germany. At the time, the Renaissance Early Printing Museum was built at the site. was in full swing across Europe. The popularity of classical books and the mushrooming of institutions of higher education exponentially increased This museum made strenuous efforts backing the inscription of Jikji on the demand for movable metal type. The technology expanded greatly both the UNESCO Memory of the World Register, and their efforts bore fruit in in terms of demand and supply. The movable metal type printing press also 2001. It also instituted the Jikji Prize through UNESCO in 2004, an award served as one of the driving forces for the subsequent social revolutions granted every two years starting in 2005 to an individual or group who made in Europe, including the Reformation, Scientific Revolution, Industrial a major contribution to the conservation and promotion of documentary Revolution, and even the development of capitalism. heritage. As seen above, the technological theory of movable type was discovered in China, but its applications stalled. Korea succeeded in putting the technology to practical use, and Johannes Gutenberg of Germany mechanized movable type printing and accordingly ensured the universalization and commercialization of the technology. It may be fair to say that all three countries contributed a share to the development of movable type technology, and through this to human culture as a whole.

The Jikji Prize instituted at UNESCO The certificate for inscription of Jikji on the Memory of the World Register Exploration of Korean Heritage 46 47

Etymology of the Name

The name Soe-so-kkak consists of three components. Soe derives from the old name of the village (Soe-dun), and so means a “pool.” Kkak is a Jeju dialect term meaning “edge.” The name Soesokkak thus denotes “a pool located at the edge of Hyodon Village [where the stream encounters the ocean].”

During the Joseon Dynasty, the village was known as Soedun, meaning “ox ranch.” It seems that the name was inspired by the cattle ranches established in Jeju by the Yuan Dynasty of China (1272–1368) during the Goryeo Dynasty. At the time, ranches were set up in many locations around the island. The current site of Hyodon Village also had an ox ranch (although An overview of the Soesokkak river pool not large in scale), which seems to have given rise to the place name Soedun.

Legends Associated with Soesokkak Soesokkak River Pool, a Masterpiece Soesokkak, believed to have been the residence of a dragon, was regarded Crafted by Nature by local residents as possessing sacred power. In times of drought, villagers would prepare a ritual table and present offerings to the dragon deity as a prayer for rain. Misbehavior such as drinking or yelling near the pool was considered to Text by Kim Jae-chun, Cultural Heritage Interpreter for Soesokkak provoke the dragon’s anger and call misfortune down upon the village. Photos by Cultural Heritage Administration and Goodimage Soesokkak is also associated with a love story dating back about 350 years. Soesokkak is a small river pool located in the Hyodon Village in the southern The story is about Hyodon’s own star-crossed lovers, equivalent to Romeo and section of Jeju, the southernmost island of South Korea. Comprising part of Juliet, and still strikes a chord with modern visitors to the village. Legend has it the Hallasan Mountain Natural Reserve (Natural Monument No. 182) and that the only daughter of a landed household gave her heart to a servant, but love registered as Scenic Site No. 78 as well, Soesokkak is one of the natural between different social classes could not be fulfilled. Devastated, the servant gems of the island. Renowned for its emerald-green waters, it is situated in threw himself into the upper reaches of the Soesokkak pool; aware of her lover’s the estuary of Hyodoncheon Stream where fresh water meets the sea. The death, the lady prayed for rain for 100 days so that the waters would swell and area around Hyodoncheon Stream was selected as a UNESCO Biosphere she could recover his body. Her prayers were answered, the rains fell, and the Reserve in 2002 for its supreme diversity of wildlife. body rose to the surface. The lady claimed and carefully buried the body, and Exploration of Korean Heritage 48 49

then killed herself in order to share the fate of her lover. Villagers learned about the death of the lovers and started to observe an annual ritual in order to appease their souls.

Mysteriously Aesthetic Landscapes

Soesokkak and its surroundings are stunningly beautiful. The deep emerald-green waters are so clear that not only the swimming fish, but the riverbed below them can be clearly seen. The pool is surrounded by a thick forest of broad-leaved, sub-tropical and temperate trees, and the scenery is embellished with rocks reminding visitors of the shapes of an owl, hawk, tiger, and elephant, as well as other picturesque forms. What cannot be missed is the change in the appearance of Soesokkak with the tides: the pool drops far enough to reveal its bottom at low tide, and then balloons Visitors paddling transparent kayaks during high tides. All these factors combine to create the diverse charms of Soesokkak, instantly capturing visitors’ attention. The kayaks are transparent, and visitors paddling in them can gaze through A teu, a traditional Jeju wooden boat used A 1,000 square meter black sand beach that was formed through the the bottom and into the clear waters of Soesokkak. Teu refers to a traditional for fishing and for the accumulation of basalt particles flowing down the river over the ages transportation of haenyeo Jeju boat made of wood and used for fishing in the inshore waters. (Jeju’s female divers) is another must-see for visitors to Soesokkak, along with the recently Accompanied by the boat master’s narrative about Soesokkak provided in refurbished Hahyo port. Soesokkak Jeju dialect, a teu ride is an interesting way to experience the site. also marks the starting point of Jeju Olle Course No. 6, which stretches The Black Sand Festival for an Environmentally Friendly Soesokkak 14.4 kilometers to Oedolgae Rock. should also be mentioned. This two-day festival held every summer serves Olle Course No. 6 features a range of as an arena where villagers, other Jeju residents, and visitors can gather and breathtaking views, including the wide- raise awareness of the significance of Soesokkak, offering a wide range of stretching ocean, Jeongbangpokpo things to see and experience including wind surfing, skin or scuba diving, Falls, Cheonjiyeon Falls, and Oedolgae and a sand sauna. Rock, continuing to attract both new and returning visitors. These days, Established as one of the most popular attractions on Jeju, Soesokkak Soesokkak is also a popular location presents spectacular scenery, interesting legends, and exciting activities, all for shooting TV dramas and other ready and waiting to satisfy the expectations of visitors. entertainment programs.

In addition, Soesokkak provides special activity programs. Visitors can hire a kayak, teu boat, or aqua bike. Exploration of Korean Heritage 50 51

Information for Visitors

▶ How to Get There Course 6 of the Jeju Olle Trail: from Soesokkak River Pool to Oedolgae Rock To get to Soesokkak from Seoul, you can fly to Jeju International Airport. From the airport, exit through Gate No. 2 and take City Bus No. Course 6 of the Jeju Olle Trail 100 to the Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal. There, catch Intercity Bus No. 730 starts at the Soesokkak estuary and and get off at the Dure Villa station. Soesokkak is located about a 30-minute passes through the central area of walk from the Dure Villa station. Seogwipo City, the former residence of the renowned painter Lee Jung- seop, and Cheonjiyeon Falls. It ▶ Other Spots to Visit in the Area finishes at Oedolgae Rock. The course showcases both the cultural Cheonjiyeon Falls: and natural charms of Jeju: it covers

667-7 Cheonji-dong, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do brilliant seascapes and Cheonjiyeon Oedolgae Rock Falls with its backdrop of sub- Cheon-ji-yeon means a “pond (yeon) made through the connection tropical forest and diverse varieties of plants, as well as a glimpse of the life of of heaven (cheon) with the land (ji).” Offering views of various scenic Jeju residents in Seogwipo City. Trekkers can choose from two different paths rockscapes, the waterfall is surrounded by rich evergreen forests and along the course: the city path (14 kilometers) and ocean path (13.7 kilometers). offers fresh breezes even in the depths of summer. The pristine natural The two routes part at the residence of Lee Jung-seop and converge at Chilsipri environment of the waterfall remains under strict government protection. Park.

Seogwipo Citrus Museum: 441 Hyodonsunhwan-ro, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do

Themed around citrus, one of the many specialties of Jeju, the Seogwipo Citrus Museum offers a variety of exhibits about citrus—its history, varieties, cultivation methods, and examples from other parts of the world. In addition to exhibition halls, the museum accommodates a glass greenhouse displaying the world’s diverse kinds of citrus trees, an experience arena, and a botanical garden with sub-tropical plants.

Cheonjiyeon Falls Exploration of Korean Heritage 52 53

Korean food is diverse and colorful: there are more than 350 staple dishes based on Samgyetang, a Hot Recipe rice and flour plus an additional 1,500-odd side dishes. These Korean specialties are not for Fighting Summer Heat just a source of nutrition, but a reflection of Korean ancestors’ tastes, life, and wisdom, and consequently provide a reservoir of interesting stories and narratives. Exploring these narratives may be one essential step toward a fuller enjoyment of Korean food.

Text by Hwang Sung-won, Professor, Suwon Science College Among the countless food-related stories, I would like to start with samgyetang, or “ginseng chicken soup,” which embodies the concept of iyeol chiyeol, or “fighting heat Photos by Goodimage with heat.” Korean food embodies the wisdom and philosophy of the ancients, as well as their lifestyle. In addition, it also contains a rich pool of interesting stories. The three most typical forms of Korean food are a table set with rice and side As one of the classic Korean dishes, samgyetang reflects their awareness of dishes designed to ensure an intake of harmonious flavors; fermented dishes such as nutritional balance and philosophy on seasonal change. kimchi (fermented vegetables) and fermented fish that convey wisdom about nutritional balance; and seasonal foods and local specialties that aptly capture the changing seasons. Samgyetang is one of the definitive dishes that epitomize the harmony of Food as the Embodiment of Philosophy nutrition and flavors in synch with the cycle of the year.

The popularity of Korean food is widespread around the globe. While Korean As summer draws toward its peak, cold foods such as chilled buckwheat noodle restaurants are popping up across the far corners of the world, an increasing number soup (naengmyeon), ice flakes, and smoothies are in great demand these days. of people also come to South Korea from abroad to try a bite of Korean dishes. They Cold foods are indeed effective at temporarily reducing body heat, but they hamper develop an interest in Korean cuisine thanks to the cultural dissemination represented digestion and exacerbate the temperature gap between the inside and outside the body, by the Korean Wave and devote some precious time to experiencing it. Through and therefore undermine the immune system. The idea of iyeol chiyeol, or “fighting Korean food they can gain a heightened understanding of Korean culture. heat with heat,” denotes that hot dishes are good for hot summer days as a way of maintaining bodily energy and consuming needed nutrients.

The concept of “fighting heat with heat” is derived from the long-standing emphasis in Korean food culture on the retention of energy (or qi in Chinese) and blood, and the harmony of the opposite forces of yin and yang. According to this theory, it follows that in hot weather heat fails to dissipate and accumulates within the body. The consumption of hot food is considered effective in expelling body heat to the outside. It is also explained according to principles of Korean medicine, which maintains that the body becomes stronger with yin in the summer and it is beneficial to supplement the yang force with hot foods. The steaming chicken soup samgyetang is among the representative summer health dishes manifesting this traditional practice of “fighting heat with heat.”

Samgyetang and its concept of “fighting heat with heat” can be understood through the lens of the strong culinary belief in seasonal food in Korea. Enjoying particular dishes and ingredients during a distinct time of year is one of the definitive Samgyetang, a definitive Korean summer health dish characteristics of Korean culinary culture. As a traditionally agrarian society, Korea is Exploration of Korean Heritage 54 55

century medical book Dongui bogam (Principles and Practices of Eastern Medicine) details particular food ingredients effective for achieving balance in the body: as complements for energy, ginseng, yams, sweet potatoes, ginger, green onions, potatoes, citron, pine nuts, cherries, sorghum, glutinous rice, carp, mudfish, and eel are suggested; for blood, lotus root, angelica, bellflowers, shepherd’s purse, spinach, Fatsia (dureup), a spring herb with Mugwort, a classic spring herb good for Growing at the branch roots of red pine, Abundant along the southwestern coast jujubes, the five-flavor berryomija , carp, conch, beef, kelp, and seaweed are best; a unique flavor and shoots that blood circulation, used for making a soup pine mushrooms are believed to have anti- of the country, gizzard shad herald the are used for cooking or served after seasoning cancer effects. coming of autumn. for yang force, bean sprouts, garlic, water parsley, mugwort, mulberry, wild berries, walnuts, croaker, shrimp, abalone, goat, chicken, and duck should be consumed; and for yin force, carrots, the mountain herb deodeok, wild chives, taro, lettuce, rich in seasonal festivals. Along with the respective rituals and games, distinct foods watermelon, quince, cucumbers, beans, Job’s tears, snakehead (a fish), herring, clams, have traditionally been prepared to celebrate the time-honored festivals. Examples tofu, hare, pork, and mushrooms are all helpful. include rice cake soup (tteokguk) on the first day of the first lunar month, five-grain rice, sweet rice with nuts and jujubes (yaksik), and seasoned vegetable side dishes (namul) on the fifteenth day of the first lunar month, azalea “flower cake” (hwajeon) Samgyetang, a Health Food for Summer decorated with azalea petals on top and a soft drink made of azalea petals on the third day of the third lunar month, half-moon-shaped rice cake (songpyeon) and taro soup Although popular throughout the summer, on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month, and rice and red bean porridge (patjuk) samgyetang is particularly suited to the day called in the eleventh lunar month. Besides the particular foods for traditional festivals, bongnal, or a “day of lying face down,” denoting that the there are particular dishes that characterize the turns of the four seasons. For example, day is so hot that even dogs lie on the ground with their dishes made with mugwort (ssuk) or fatsia shoots (dureup) signify the advent of faces down. To make samgyetang, a chicken is cleaned spring just as pine mushrooms and gizzard shad herald the coming of autumn. Another and stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng, milk vetch root, distinctive seasonal food is “flower cake,” or hwajeon, which is made by pan-frying and jujubes, and then placed in an earthen or stone pot rice dough with decorative azalea petals on top as an announcement of the beginning to boil for around one hour. As a dish, samgyetang first of spring. gained popularity with the spread of ginseng. A young chicken weighing about 500–700 grams is used, perfect The practice of enjoying seasonal foods is not only a method of appreciating a for a single portion and fitting in a smallish earthen pot. A definitive summer health dish, samgyetang is made by boiling a cleaned wide range of flavors, but also an effective strategy for complementing nutritional chicken stuffed with various ingredients such as glutinous rice, ginseng, milk vetch root, garlic, and jujubes. shortfalls. Different seasons provide a distinct natural environment favoring the As a food that adds to yang energy, the sizzling growth of particular crops, fruits, and herbs, and seasonal ingredients contain the chicken soup samgyetang is ideal for hot summer days. nutrients and flavors that are peculiar to a season. For this reason, it has long been People enjoying steaming food with sweat dripping from their brow on a scorching believed that consuming enough seasonal foods is the most effective way to maintain summer day may indeed look strange to people from other parts of the world. health. This is explained by the traditional philosophy of uisik dongwon, or “food is However, if they understand the “fight heat with heat” concept explained above, the best medicine.” The idea of uisik dongwon relates that food is not simply about they can interpret it as a process of expelling bodily heat through sweat by eating the satisfaction of the palate, but about ensuring a long and healthy life. Illnesses are hot chicken soup. Samgyetang is also widely known abroad. The Japanese writer understood to be a symptom of a lack of balance within the body, and food is adopted Murakami Ryu has praised samgyetang as the best Korean dish, and the Chinese as a means to restore equilibrium and therefore control illness. movie director Zhang Yimou is famous for savoring samgyetang whenever he visits Korea. Food is the most fundamental expression of a culture, and this is why local Striking a balance between energy and blood and between yin and yang through food is one of the most memorable experiences enjoyed when visiting other cultures. the intake of food holds great significance in Korean culinary culture. The early-17th As one of the definitive summer dishes,samgyetang will leave an indelible imprint of Korean cuisine in the mind of a visitor, and of Korean culture as well. Cultural Heritage Administration Headlines 56 57 CHA News

Intangible Cultural Heritage Committee Established at the CHA Evening Heritage Interpretation Programs for 2016

On April 29 at Korea House in Seoul, the Cultural Heritage The CHA is currently implementing nighttime interpretation programs designed to Administration (CHA) launched its Intangible Cultural Heritage Committee offer a special heritage experience that incorporates local heritage sites with surrounding through the selection of a chairperson in accordance with the March cultural content. 28enforcement of the Act on the Safeguarding and Promotion of Intangible Cultural Heritage (Intangible Cultural Heritage Act). The evening heritage interpretation programs scheduled for 2016, numbering about 180 in total, are presented under seven distinct themes according to the unique The establishment of characteristics of the locality: evening heritage scenery, nighttime promenades, historic this committee, an expert stories at night, appreciation of paintings at night, enjoyment of performances at night, advisory body for the CHA, nighttime food, and one night at an open heritage site. is aimed at more actively responding to the diverse In the Jeongdong area of Seoul, visitors can enjoy a range of performances, policy demands stemming exhibitions, and experiences while strolling through an area rich in modern historic from the implementation buildings and monuments. In Busan, an evening program is offered that shows diverse of the Intangible Cultural aspects of the city and their association with the Korean War. In Gangneung, a program Heritage Act and enhancing highlights the aesthetic beauty of the blissful natural environment. Areas known for their the expert capacity for town walls—Cheongju and Suncheon—foster a civic image of tradition coexisting with policy deliberation. modernity through night programs. Finally, Buyeo and Gyeongju welcome visitors with evening programs presenting their many historical charms, and other localities including The committee is comprised of 27 committee members and 44 Jeonju, Daegu, and Gunsan implement a colorful variety of nighttime programs that specialists, appointed for a two-year term spanning from March 1, 2016 enable visitors to gain a unique experience of enjoying historic sites and traditions at to April 30, 2018. These experts are drawn from diverse fields related night. to intangible heritage, including traditional performance and crafts, and traditional knowledge and customary practices, as well as administration The CHA will continue with its efforts toward developing diverse heritage and the media. interpretation programs.

The CHA will strive for the effective operation of the committee through such efforts as expanding opportunities for hearing a wide range of stakeholders and improving the committee’s operational rules in a way that ensures participation in discussion agendas by diverse committee members across their areas of expertise. Cultural Heritage Administration Headlines 58 59

CHA Events

Event Period/Time Location Contents Event Period/Time Location Contents

Performance of National Experience of making tradi- Jeonggwanheon Pavilion at Traditional experiences for tional crafts, and experience Music at Deoksugung Palace Every Thursday in July Intangible Cultural Heritage Year-round Incheon International Airport Deoksugung Palace travelers of traditional clothes through and other traditional arts digital technology Special night tours of the royal Gyeongbokgung and Chang- July 16 (Sat.)–August 19 (Fri.) Night tours of palaces palaces gyeonggung Palaces Exhibition of Korean cultural Display of tangible and intan- Year-round Incheon International Airport heritage gible cultural heritage Gyeongbokgung and Chang- Nighttime palace concerts July 16 (Sat.)–August 19 (Fri.) Traditional music concerts gyeonggung Palaces Transmission Center for Permanent and special exhibi- Exhibitions relating to tradi- Year-round National Intangible Cultural tions tional arts Special exhibition on intangi- Heritage ble cultural heritage (Flowers May 27 (Fri.)–August 31 (Wed.) Changdeokgung Palace - Crafted by Masters) Ongoing performance of Performance hall at Korea Year-round - traditional arts House Special exhibition on Joseon June 21 (Tue.)–August 28 Exhibition hall of the Royal - Ceremony of the changing of Year-round (closed on Tues- Dynasty royal tombs (Sun.) Palace Museum Gyeongbokgung Palace - the royal guard days) Public opening of the un- An underwater excavation site Year-round (closed on Tues- Baegaksan section of the derwater excavation site in 14:00 on July 30 (Sat.) (subject Exploration of Mt. Baegaksan - in the waters off of Myeong- days) Seoul City Wall commemoration of the 40th to change depending on - nangdaecheop-ro, Jindo-gun, anniversary of the excavation conditions at the site) South Jeolla Province Regular Tuesday performance Every Tuesday year-round Korea Cultural House - of Shinan Shipwreck

Presenting a media façade Performance hall (“Pungnyu”) Seokjojeon Hall at Deoksug- show centering on the history Regular performance of story at the Transmission Center for Traditional dance, music, and Media façade show July 26 (Tue.)–28 (Thu.) Every Thursday year-round ung Palace and unique characteristics of narration National Intangible Cultural performance Seokjojeon Hall Heritage Heungnyemun at Gyeongbok- In commemoration of National Performance of National Media façade show August 13 (Sat.)–15 (Mon.) gung Palace Liberation Day Wednesday invitation of Every Wednesday from March Performance hall at Korea Intangible Cultural Heritage master artists 2 (Wed.) through December House and fusion traditional Korean Education for elementary music school students on women’s August 4 (Thu.), 11 (Thu.), and Education hall of the National - royal culture of Joseon (Like 13 (Sat.) Palace Museum of Korea Taking and providing memo- Me, Like the Queen) Last Wednesday of every Hyangdaecheong Area at Culture day rial photos with actors wear- month Jongmyo Shrine Listening to Korean music at 19:30 on every Saturday in Myeongjeongjeon Hall at ing ritual costumes * By reservation only the palace August Changdeokgung Palace Music explained by a curator, 16:00–17:00 on the last National Palace Museum of and performances by National Experience of royal medicine Education hall of the Royal Culture day Wednesday of every month Korea Intangible Cultural Heritage of Joseon for elementary Palace Museum of Korea and during June–September August 3 (Wed.) and 10 (Wed.) - masters school students (Health Se- Sojubang Kitchen at Gyeong- crets of the Royal Court) bokgung Palace Seokjojeon Hall at Deoksug- Culture day July 27 (Wed.) Classic music concerts ung Palace Special exhibition on tradition- Transmission Center of al dyeing (National Intangible August 15 (Mon.)–26 (Fri.) National Intangible Cultural - Experience of a tea ceremony Every Wednesday during Jaesil House at Jeongneung Cultural Heritage No. 115; * By reservation only Heritage No. 115 at Jeongneung Tomb September–October Tomb Master Jung Kwan-chae)

Saturday performance by Moonlight Tours at Every Saturday during August Sujeongjeon Hall at Gyeong- August 15 (Mon.)–20 (Sat.) Changdeokgung Palace * By reservation only National Intangible Cultural - Changdeokgung Palace 27–November 5 bokgung Palace Heritage Masters Cultural Heritage Administration Headlines

Affiliated Organizations of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Name Website Tell

Korea National University of Cultural Heri- http://english.nuch.ac.kr/CmsHome/NUCH- +82-41-830-7114 tage default.aspx

The Training Center for Traditional Culture http://tctc.nuch.ac.kr/eng/ +82-41-830-7825

National Research Institute of Cultural http://www.nrich.go.kr/english_new/ +82-42-860-9114 Heritage

Gyeongju National Research Institute of http://www.nrich.go.kr/english_new/lo- +82-42-860-9114 Cultural Heritage resch_Ins/gj_PEstablish.jsp

Buyeo National Research Institute of Cultural http://www.nrich.go.kr/english_new/lo- +82-42-860-9114 Heritage resch_Ins/by_PEstablish.jsp KOREAN

Gaya National Research Institute of Cultural http://www.nrich.go.kr/english_new/lo- +82-42-860-9114 HERITAGE Heritage resch_Ins/gy_PEstablish.jsp Quarterly Magazine Jungwon National Research Institute of http://www.nrich.go.kr/english_new/lo- of the Cultural Heritage Administration +82-42-860-9114 Cultural Heritage resch_Ins/jw_PEstablish.jsp Cultural Heritage Administration, http://www.nrich.go.kr/english_new/lo- Cultural Heritage Conservation Center +82-42-860-9114 189 Cheongsa-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon, Republic of Korea resch_Ins/ch_PEstablish.jsp Tel | 82-42-481-4735 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://www.gogung.go.kr/fore/main. http://english.cha.go.kr National Palace Museum of Korea +82-2-3701-7500 do?pLng=en Printed | June 15, 2016 National Research Institute of Maritime http://www.seamuse.go.kr/seamuseweb/ +82-61-270-2000 Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Cultural Heritage main/Index.do?mn=EN_01 Republic of Korea http://www.royalpalace.go.kr/html/eng/ Gyeongbokgung Palace Management Office +82-2-3700-3900 Publication | Director of International Cooperation Division main/main.jsp management Content | Moon Sun-kyoung, Kim Young-mi, Seong Hyun-jung Changdeokgung Palace Management Office http://eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm +82-2-3668-2300 coordination Translation | Park Jung-eun http://www.deoksugung.go.kr/eng/index. Deoksugung Palace Management Office +82-2-771-9955 Copy editing | Bill Sharp asp Design ∙ Editing | Graphickorea Co., Ltd

National Intangible Heritage Center http://www.nihc.go.kr/english/html/ +82-63-280-1400 Printed by | Graphickorea Co., Ltd

Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation http://www.chf.or.kr/en +82-2-566-6300 Cultural Heritage Administration, 2016

Overseas Korean Cultural Heritage Founda- http://www.overseaschf.or.kr/site/main/ +82-2-6902-0756 This publication is copyrighted. No part may be reproduced tion index002 by any process without written permission. http://www.k-heritage.tv/hp/vod/eng/ K-heritage.tv +82-2-566-6300 engIntro.do

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