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Sociedade Da Mesa a 114 2 quinzena de Setembro 2012 Sociedade da clubeMesa de vinhos índice 04 - Seleção Mensal 10 - Seleção Grandes Vinhos 16 - Entrevista: Luciana Mello / 24 - Artigo: `As claras Direção Dario Taibo Esta revista é uma edição exclusiva para os associados da Sociedade da Mesa. 34 - Artigo Técnico: A garrafa de vidro / 38 - Ingredientes: Alho / Direção da revista Dario Taibo [email protected] 40 - Entrevista: Emmanuel Bassoleil / 48 - Saboreando Juntos / Editora-chefe Sociedade 52 - Um pouco de receita: Bacalhau nas natas `a moda brasileira com Paula Morales da Mesa [email protected] clube de vinhos creme e requeijão / 54 - Programa Saca-Rolha / 60 - Acessórios / Projeto gráfico e diagramação Rua Branco de Moraes, 248/11 O C O Chácara Santo Antônio - São Paulo - SP - Brasil www.ochoa.com.brcomunicação e design CEP 04718-010 61 - Vinhos em Estoque / 62 - Próximas Seleções. (55-11) 5180-6000 0800-7740303 www.sociedadedamesa.com.br Atendimento ao cliente [email protected] Contato de Publicidade [email protected] Dario Taibo sócio-diretor Impressão 13.600 exemplares 04 05 SELEÇÃO MENSAL Texto: Alberto Pedrajo Pérez y Javier Achútegui Dominguez Fotos: divulgação STONE ROAD MERLOT 2011 Stellenbosch Stellenbosch Cape Town Cape Town da neblina pelos vales do interior, África do Sul criando ótimas condições para o Os vinhedos de Stellenbosch bom desenvolvimento da viticultura nestas latitudes. Com vinhedos A vitivinicultura na África do Sul sensacionais em um cenário desenvolve-se ao redor do Cabo único, talvez uma das paisagens da Boa Esperança, a 34˚ de latitude vitivinícolas mais espetaculares do sul. Seu clima, pela sua posição mundo seja a África do Sul. É um A África do Sul está entre os 10 no extremo sul do continente país com 300 anos de tradição no principais produtores de vinho africano, era de se esperar que cultivo de vinhedo e na produção do mundo, concentrando seus fosse mais subtropical úmido, mas de vinho, fruto da colonização vinhedos mais importantes em um surpreendentemente é mediterrâneo holandesa, que juntamente com a raio de cerca de 160km ao redor temperado, ideal para o cultivo inquietude de seus cosmopolitas de sua capital, Cidade do Cabo. A de vinhedos, propiciado pela sua bodegueros, resultou em uma região costeira é a mais importante topografia e pela corrente oceânica grande variedade de vinhos que região produtora de vinhos da de Bengala, que sobe pelo Atlântico desfrutam de prestígio reconhecido, África do Sul. Representa o centro desde a Antártica, e que se graças à sua forte personalidade. produtivo e histórico dos vinhos sul- encarrega de moderar o calor do Vinhos a meio caminho entre os africanos, e é nela que se encontra verão durante o dia, trazendo leves vinhos frutados do Novo Mundo, e o distrito vitivinícola Stellenbosch, brisas que, de noite, encarregam- o requinte e elegância dos melhores a apenas 40km da capital, que é se da umidade transmitida através vinhos europeus. talvez o mais importante do país. ERRATA: A safra correta do Stone Road é 2011. 06 07 Em 1988, Hans Froehling e Leon Stemmet, empresários de Johannesburg, adquiriram os terrenos em Devon Valley, região, na fronteira com False Bay, começando a plantação dos ficou muito caracterizada pela sua primeiros vinhedos de chardonnay. influência marítima. Em direção ao Louisvale Wines Durante os primeiros anos, apenas oeste, enquanto nos aproximamos se produziu vinho branco com a O que torna a região de A apenas 40 minutos da Cidade Stellenbosch tão especial? da Cidade do Cabo, o solo torna- variedade chardonnay, até que, em se mais arenoso, o que favorece a do Cabo, em um espaço 1993, os primeiros vinhos tintos A heterogeneidade de seus solos, produção de vinhos brancos. Os surpreendente, cercado por produzidos com cabernet sauvignon sua diversidade topográfica e as vinhedos têm uma altura média de carvalhos de grande porte, em um e merlot foram comercializados. É condições mesoclimáticas resultam pouco mais de 140 metros, embora autêntico oásis de paz, encontra- uma bodega de pequeno porte, em um mapa de vinhedos diversos, alguns, localizados mais no sopé se a bodega que neste mês cujos vinhos têm sido reconhecidos que são a origem de seus vinhos de das montanhas, cheguem a superar apresentamos: Louisvale Wines. internacionalmente, chegando-se a qualidade reconhecida, vinhos de alturas de 600 metros. O vinhedo e a bodega estão encontrar seu chardonnay entre os caráter e complexidade. localizados no vale de Devon, 100 melhores do mundo. Estas são as condições especiais fora de Stellenbosch. O acesso à Stellenbosch está cercada por que fazem com que, não só a África bodega é através de um caminho A propriedade passou, em setembro montanhas. Os melhores solos do Sul, mas especificamente o ladeado por suas vinhas, que de 2010, a um grupo de amigos, para o cultivo do vinhedo estão distrito vitivinícola de Stellenbosch, se vêem cercadas por uma vista Altmann Allers, Kluever Hendrik, localizados nas encostas de seja capaz de oferecer uma impressionante das montanhas de Meyer Zane e Kirsten Johan, que granitos nos pés das montanhas de diversidade de vinhos de alta Stellenbosch e Simonsberg. Dizem adquiriram Louisvale para continuar Helderberg e de Simonsberg, mas a qualidade, concentrando nesta área que, de todos os vinhedos da África produzindo vinhos excepcionais e diversidade de solos e microclimas um grande número de bodegas de do Sul, a bodega Louisvale deve ter continuar fazendo ser grande esta é muito ampla. A parte sul da vinhos de alta gama. uma das vistas mais espetaculares. pequena bodega. 08 09 Stone Road 2011, Stellenbosch Os vinhedos de Stone Road estão no espetacular Devon Valley, nos pés das majestosas montanhas de Stone Road 2011 Stellenbosch. O clima de Devon Valley é a chave para a qualidade das uvas produzidas em seus Região: Stellenbosch - África do vinhedos. É um vale mais frio do que Sul os que estão ao seu redor. E como As uvas para produzir o Stone Uvas: Merlot já dissemos, oferece condições Road são colhidas manualmente ideais para o amadurecimento Cata: o vinho apresenta uma cor na maturidade ideal, com um da vinha. Seus solos de granito, vermelho-rubi intenso. No nariz, rendimento inferior a 8.000 quilos profundos e bem drenados, ficam definidas principalmente as por hectare. Após a recepção das garantem tons ricos a seus vinhos, lembranças de fruta vermelha, uvas na bodega, estas são soltas dando-lhes grande singularidade. morangos maduros, que estão e comprimidas, passando aos entrelaçados com as notas recipientes onde fermentarão por de crianza, especiarias e um 7 dias, a uma temperatura média ligeiro toque mentolado. Na entre 25 e 27˚C, realizando-se boca é longo, com uma entrada bombeamentos diários para extrair volumosa, mas equilibrada graças todo seu potencial, aroma, cor e a uma deliciosa sensação de taninos. Depois da fermentação frescor, que é acompanhada pela alcoólica, é realizada a fermentação sua estrutura tânica, que não maloláctica em tanques de aço incomoda em nada. inoxidável, passando depois 0 para o envelhecimento em barris Temperatura: 15 a 16 de carvalho francês de 225l, Harmonização: é um merlot maduro que irá fornecer as nuances do e equilibrado, que nos apeteceria envelhecimento, respeitando seus degustar com um bom prato de aromas primários e permitindo que a carne de ave, um grelhado ou um fruta seja a verdadeira protagonista. prato de massa italiana, pratos Depois de permanecer 10 meses com pouca gordura e pouco em barril, é unificado, afinado e condimentados que nos permitam engarrafado. desfrutar deste merlot saboroso. ASPA INGENIEROS: C\ La Campa nº 11 26005 Logroño (La Rioja) T: +34 941210448 F: +34 941287072 www.aspaingenieros.com skype: alberto.pedrajo.aspa 10 11 seleção Grandes Vinhos 4 seleções/ano Soledad SELEÇÃO GRANDES VINHOS Central Coast é a maior região Texto: Alberto Pedrajo Pérez y Javier Achútegui Dominguez vitivinícola da Califórnia, com Fotos: divulgação uma área de 400km² e com Estados Unidos aproximadamente 360 bodegas, onde é produzida a maioria dos vinhos da Califórnia. Esta região vitícola se estende do município de Mendocino, ao norte da Baía de São Francisco, até o município de Santa Bárbara, no sul do Estado. HAHN O comprimento da costa da Vamos relembrar um pouco como Califórnia, 1300km, e sua topografia são classificados os vinhedos e acidentada fazem com que esta MERITAGE 2010 as áreas vitícolas nos E.U.A.. As região seja composta por outras denominações geográficas são sub-regiões divididas em vales definidas por fronteiras políticas, ou municípios: Livermore Valley, o nome de um município ou pelo Monterey County, Paso Robles, Os vinhos da Central Coast, reconhecimento do governo federal San Benito County, San Francisco Soledad Califórnia nas denominações, chamadas Bay, San Luis Obispo County, AVAs. Todas as AVAs da Califórnia Santa Cruz County, Santa Clara Estamos na Califórnia, o epicentro estão agrupadas em 6 grandes County, Santa Cruz e Santa Barbara Califórnia da indústria vitivinícola americana. regiões: North Coast, Central Coast, County, que são os que agrupam Os números desta região são no Sierra Foothills, Inland Valleys, as AVAs: Arroyo Grande Valley AVA, HAHN mínimo surpreendentes: 9 em cada Southern Califórnia e Far North Arroyo Seco AVA, Carmel Valley 10 garrafas de vinho produzidas Califórnia. AVA, Chalone AVA, Cienega Valley nos E.U.A. vêm deste estado, que Hahn Winery: vinhedos. AVA, Edna Valley AVA, Hames é o 4˚ produtor mundial, depois Valley AVA, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, de França, Itália e Espanha. A Livermore Valley AVA, Monterey expansão contínua da vitivinicultura AVA, Mt. Harlan AVA, Pacheco Pass na Califórnia gerou, nos últimos 30 AVA, Paicines AVA, Paso Robles anos, uma eclosão de bodegas, AVA, San Antonio Valley AVA, San que, juntamente com o entusiasmo Benito AVA, San Bernabe AVA, San característico de seus habitantes Francisco Bay AVA, San Lucas AVA, e seu desejo de inovar, fazem do San Ysidro District AVA, Santa Clara estado uma caixa de surpresas Valley AVA, Santa Lucia Highlands enológicas.
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