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Paso Robles October 05

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Paso Robles October 05 Cindy Newkirk, owner of the WineYard at Steinbeck Vineyards, and Chris Taranto, director of tourism for Paso Robles, visit the summit of the prop- erty aboard WineYard Willie, the vintage 1958 jeep that is used to take visitors on tours. Right, a quintet of top-quality Paso Robles wines. Justin Smith is stepping carefully along ter- yard. Before that, the Smiths had been By “the place,” Hope means the west ern races on the steep upper slope of his vine- growing Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. part of Paso Robles. The AVA is “a huge yard, which he calls “Bone Rock” after the Smith is part of a group of Rhône entity,” says Smith, comprising 666,618 acres whale fossils that litter the uplifted shale fanatics working in Paso Robles, a re- – that’s about three times the size of Napa soils. Harvest is coming, and Smith is keep- gion of inland San Luis Obispo County Valley. “We’ve got areas that are only nine ing an eye on sugar levels in the ripening that achieved its own AVA status in miles off the [Pacific] coast, and some that Syrah grapes, which will go into his Saxum 1983. “There’s a small band of us fo- are closer to the Central Valley,” Smith wines. In 1987, Edna Valley vintner John cusing on Rhône varietals,” says an- explains. Paso Robles is located midway Alban persuaded Smith and his father, James other member, Austin Hope, of Austin between San Francisco and Los Angeles, Berry Smith, to plant some then-experimen- Hope Wines. “We really believe this is about 200 miles from each. It’s about 30 miles tal Rhône grape varieties in the family vine- the place to grow Syrah in California.” north of San Luis Obispo. B Y S T E V E H E I M O F F P H O T O S B Y G E R A L D L. F R E N C H 3 9 | O C T O B E R 2 0 0 5 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T The dividing line between cool and is too rugged, the soils too meager, to warm Paso is, roughly, Highway 101. support high-volume winegrowing. On an August day, it can be 110 degrees Smith’s yields at Saxum, about two in the east, 105 degrees in downtown tons per acre, are typical. Paso and 95 in the western hills. Although grapegrowing on the west Westsiders like Smith, Hope and other side began in the 1960s – Hoffman members of the “band” are talking about Mountain Ranch was among the first applying for a separate AVA, but the — Rhône varieties weren’t established process is only in its early stages. until the 1980s. Smith, at Saxum, and Paso Robles built its early reputation Tablas Creek both started around 1989. on the strength of visionaries who de- Today, what Tablas’s general manager, veloped wineries in the east. Gary Eberle Jason Haas, calls, “the Rhône commu- founded Estrella River Winery in 1977, nity” has expanded to include Shadow and, a couple of years later, Eberle Win- Canyon, Summerwood, Linne Calodo, ery. In 1984, Chuck Ortman started his L’Aventure, Garretson, Villa Creek nearby Meridian brand, which Beringer and Justin (whose initial success was purchased in 1988. based on their Bordeaux varieties). In 1981, Ken Volk chose an area just New wineries or brands pop up all the a few miles south of the city of Paso time, making census-taking difficult. Robles, in the cattle town of Templeton, Haas says the decision by his father, for his Wild Horse Winery (sold in 2003 Robert, and the Perrin family of to Peak Wines International). Together, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, to co-establish Eberle, Meridian and Wild Horse estab- a Rhône-oriented winery in western lished Paso Robles’ reputation as the Paso Robles was driven by the lime- source of good, soft, affordable red and stone substrate – so similar to white wines. Eberle and Volk were early Châteauneuf’s – and by the climate (see Rhône enthusiasts; the former has also sidebar “Fifty Years in Wine”). Day- made important contributions in time temperatures are warm, but cool Cabernet Sauvignon. off at night by as much as 50 degrees, These three set a pattern of the east resulting in average temperatures that side being dominated by relatively large are about the same as they are in wineries; their ranks have since been Châteauneuf. The presence of the joined by the likes of EOS, Martin & Perrins has been vital in providing lo- Weyrich, J. Lohr and others. Wineries cal winemakers with French from outside the area, including Gallo, viticultural and winemaking know- Robert Mondavi, Estancia, Fetzer and how, not to mention Rhône clones. Kendall-Jackson, also own or control What the west side Rhône wines all east side vineyards. have in common is that they are “very Western Paso Robles, though, is an- powerful, fruit-filled, ripe wines with other ballgame. Where the east is as flat great tannins,” in the words of Tablas as a billiard table, making it convenient Creek’s Collins. Alcohol tends to be for large, contiguous vineyards, in the high, especially for the hot vintages of west the hills rise abruptly. Referred to the last three years, but the wines rarely locally as the Adelaida Hills (not to be taste hot or unbalanced. confused with Australia’s Adelaide The small band of Adelaida- Hills), they’re part of the Santa Lucia Templeton Gap vintners meet regularly Mountains, which span 140 miles from and seem to enjoy competing among Carmel Bay through San Luis Obispo themselves for quality. Just as Napa County. It’s in these remote hills, val- Valley winemakers have made a spe- leys and benchlands, as well as in a more cialty of high-end Cabernet Sauvignon, southerly and even cooler area, called the these winemakers of west Paso (by Templeton Gap, that the Westside whatever name it’s eventually known) Rhônistes work. may make this the first region in the “You couldn’t have big wineries out state to specialize in high-end Syrahs. here,” explains Neil Collins, the As such, they are helping to chart the winemaker and vineyard manager at future of Rhône wines, especially reds, Tablas Creek Winery. The topography in California. O C T O B E R 2 0 0 5 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | 4 1 Nine Westerners to Watch undeveloped York Mountain AVA property AUSTIN HOPE L’AVENTURE in 1996, and spent years establishing the Chuck Hope planted east Paso Robles This Templeton Gap vineyard and win- vineyard, 1,600 feet up in Santa Lucia, in vineyards in 1978, sold grapes, then es- ery achieved cult status with its vision of the windy part of Templeton Gap. The vine- tablished the Treana brand in the ‘90s. “a Paso blend, not a Bordeaux blend, not yard in 100 percent Syrah, to 5 different Son Austin put in the first westside a Rhône blend,” in the words of owner clones; yields are low, only 1-2 tons per plantings in 1987, with Cabernet. After Stephan Asseo, a transplanted Entre- acre. Gibson makes his Syrah from the tasting a 1995 Guigal Syrah, he tore out Deux-Mers chateau owner. Asseo briefly best barrels and sells off the rest. Top- the Cab and converted the vineyards to considered Napa, Monterey and Santa rated wines: Shadow Canyon 2003 Rhône varieties. Now he has his own la- Barbara before deciding on his west Paso Shadow Canyon Vineyard Syrah (90 bel and produces 100 percent Syrah. location in 1998. Top rated wines: points), Shadow Canyon 2003 Larner Vine- With vine maturity he plans to do block/ L’Aventure 2002 Optimus (94 points), yard Grenache (89 points). clonal bottlings. Top-rated wine: Austin L’Aventure 2002 Estate Cuvée (93 Hope 2002 Hope Family Vineyard Syrah points). SUMMERWOOD (89 points). LINNE CALODO This is a new brand, its first vintage in 2002, with a winery and upscale inn on Highway GARRETSON Matt Trevisan took over after Justin Smith 46 West, in the warmer areas of Templeton Former Eberle and Wild Horse executive left, in 2002. Trevisan buys grapes from Gap. The winery buys most of its fruit from Mat Garretson started The Viognier Guild, local Templeton Gap vineyards such as westside vineyards like James Berry, the forerunner of the colorful Hospice du Cherry, Leona’s, Lock, Denner, Kruse. “I Denner and Jensen. It owns some Syrah Rhône event, which he still directs. am not looking to make varietal wines,” and Cabernet (originally planted by Austin Garretson launched his own brand in Trevisan says, Linne Calodo’s wines are Hope), but sells the Cab. Plans are to re- 2001, specializing in Rhône varietals. He Southern Rhône blends with fanciful lease the Syrah in two tiers, Cream Label owns no vineyards, but has long-term names (The Contrarian is a white, the and Black Label. Top-rated wines: Sum- contracts exclusively with west-side grow- Nemesis and Rising Tides are reds). Top merwood 2003 Diosa Rhône Red Wine (91 ers. Top-rated wines: Garretson 2001 rated wines: Linne Calodo 2003 Nem- points), Summerwood 2003 Diosa Blanc “The Aisling” Syrah (91 points), Garretson esis (94 points), Linne Calodo 2003 Ris- Rhône White Wine (90 points). 2002 “The Lusacain” Rozet Vineyard ing Tides (93 points). Syrah (90 points). SAXUM TABLAS CREEK The Perrin family (of Chateau de JUSTIN The James Berry Vineyard was planted Beaucastel) and American wine importer This pioneering Adelaida Hills winery by James Smith in 1980 to Burgundian Robert Haas co-founded the brand in 1989.
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