Volume 24, Number 1 - Spring 2017 Preserving Zapotec Weaving Traditions Steve Csipke and Ann Schunior; photos by Ann Schunior In many traditional cultures, if you are their grandparents, and so it went as far Creating A Connected born into a weaving family in a weaving back as anyone in the family can remember. Textile Community community, you grow up seeing and learn- The Zapotec culture started about CreatingCreating Aa Connected ing about tex- 10,000 years ago in the Oaxaca Valley of TextileTextile Community Community tiles and your culture, acquir- To foster a global network of ing skills and To foster a global network of enthusiasts knowledge, enthusiasts who value the who value the importance of textiles to and eventu- importance of textiles to grassroots grassroots economies ally become a economies weaver or spin- ner or natural Porfirio explains that the motif on top and dyer. In this bottom rows represent Walk of the Serpent, manner, tradi- also called Shape of the River; the motif in Exchange information tional ways are the middle is Sacred Necklace, made of seeds RaiseRaise awareness awareness of of the the importance importance of passed from from plants that are considered sacred foods. Porfirio Gutiérrez generation to textiletextile traditions traditions to grassroots to grassroots economies generation. But as families start to use com- economies southwest Mexico (now part of the modern Mobilize textile enthusiasts mercial dyes and markets change, this knowl- state of Oaxaca). The Zapotecs originally Mobilize textile enthusiasts edge is in danger of were backstrap weavers using local cotton. Create conversations that result in action being lost. Porfirio In the sixteenth century, the Spanish intro- Create conversations that result in Gutiérrez and his duced sheep, floor looms, and spinning action family are working against this trend to preserve their Textiles are an important component of Zapotec textile tra- Textilesthe are human an important experience. component ditions. of the human experience. Porfirio, the Networking and sharing information ninth of eleven Networkingcreates andan environment sharing information for children, recalls, createsconstructive an environment action. for “As kids we would Making connectionsconstructive between action. textile play around my A rug on the loom artisansMaking worldwide Connections promotes between positive father’s big loom and watch as a new design social change. would emerge. He would tell us about the textile artisans worldwide promotes positive social change. symbols he was weaving and our Zapotec Master dyer Juana Gutiérrez Contreras, Interacting with people who have similar heritage.” Porfirio’s mother carded wool and Porfirio’s sister, using the cochineal metate, Interactingvalues enricheswith people our wholives. have spun yarn. Porfirio’s parents learned from with baskets of dyestuffs in the background. similar values enriches our lives. continued on page 10 1 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 New Markets for Njabini Wool Crafters Janice Knausenberger A group of motivated Kenyans are trans- beautifully woven. At one kilo or barely two forming their lives by adding value to wool pounds, each throw measured approxi- from sheep raised sustainably in native mately 51 inches wide by 72 inches long, grasslands where endemic and endan- with additional generous fringes. gered birds, including the Sharpe’s Long- I returned with the two throws to the WARP Newsletter claw, live. The Njabini Wool Crafters Coop- US, where a designer I know commis- published quarterly by erative, dedicated to improving livehoods sioned more throws, including new de- Weave A Real Peace and raising public awareness, offically was signs. Through the use of Fiberworks PCW Volume 24, Number 1 Spring 2017 formed in 2012. This cooperative grew from (weaving software), the team in Njabini and Editor: Linda Temple a few members of the conservation group I could work together. It has also been a boon to have internet calls for free where Send address challenges and changes can be easily dis- corrections to: cussed. [email protected] The production of their first interna- or mail to tional order was a learning process. Njabini Weave a Real Peace now has a better grasp of production time c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue and supplies needed. They are working on East Lansing, MI 48823 attaining more looms and smaller pieces of equipment that will speed production.
The deadline for contributions to the Friends of Kinangop Plateau, who, in 2004, Summer issue of the WARP had loosely formed to promote weaving newsletter is and spinning since employment is a chal- May 5, 2017 lenge in this remote area of the Aberdares Mountains. In addition, the members edu- Send articles and cate the public on environmental issues correspondence for and work with the newsletter to: Linda Temple local sheep 1230 NE 70 farmers to Oklahoma City, OK 73111 conserve the The throws shown are either in natural [email protected] birds and colors of black and white or with a tan from 405/478-4936 (phone) promote im- a natural dye. Since that first order, Njabini provement of has produced more pieces, modified some sheep breeds designs, woven new designs, and and used Information about an and farming other natural and/or commercial dyes. organization or service in practices. Njabini Wool Crafters Cooperative is this newsletter does not The major now working on accessing local high end constitute an endorsement focus of my markets. Their goal is to become sustain- by WARP. visit in Njabini able in the near future. In the past year, in May 2016 they moved into their new workshop and Submissions may be was to work are currently training more spinners and edited or shortened at the with them to weavers to meet the demands for their pro- discretion of the editor. produce handspun woolen throws of high cessed wool. They have come a long way quality and light weight. We worked in- since 2004 when they only wove rugs on tensively to improve each step of produc- nail looms attached to the walls. tion. Precision in all areas, from washing to Janice consults with weaving groups in Kenya, par- spinning to weaving, was a necessity. They ticularly addressing technique, design, and efficiency. blended wool, spun various novelty and Her personal expression in fibers comes by incorporat- standard types of yarn, and experiment- ing her experiences and loves in life in complex, often ed with new designs. By the end of three pectoral, weavings of painted and dyed threads. She weeks, two throws of different designs were can be reached at [email protected] 2 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 2017 WARP Annual Meeting Agenda Judy Newland Morning Sessions - Friday, June 9 Afternoon sessions - Friday, June 9, cont’d Marta Turok, our Attendees will select discussion ques- keynote speaker from tions prior to meeting and break into small Weave A Real Peace Mexico City, is an ap- group leaders to talk about issues/ideas Membership Information plied anthropologist facing textile artisans around the world www.weavearealpeace.org who focuses on socio- 2017 Annual Dues economic artisan de- 1:00–7:00 - ExpoVenta – a marketplace of $50 - Individual in US/Canada velopment in Mexico; regional artisans $90 - 2 year special - Individual US/ she is considered one 6:00–7:30 Reception with visits to Museo Canada of the foremost experts on Mexican Folk Textil de Oaxaca (possible film screening) $40 - International Individual Art and will discuss her work and what it Simple living - Choose an amount means for artisans in a global world market Saturday, June 10 - 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. you can live with Lorena De la Piedra will discuss the Natural Dye, Weaving, and Textile Tour, $50 - Guilds/Organization work of the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation, includes van transportation, lunch, and $30 - Sister/Gift Subscriptions its commitment to artisan development, visits to artisan studios with demonstra- $75 - Business bringing products to market, and the natu- tions and discussion of the natural dye $75 - Supporting Individual ral dye culture of Oaxaca tradition in Oaxaca. Participants will meet $100 - Friend of WARP Porfirio Gutierrez, Teotitlan del Valle weavers of rugs, home goods, handbags, $150+ - Patron of WARP master weaver, will present Innovation and clothing in their home studios. Tour and Preservation in Zapotec Weaving – the will make four stops. You will see weavers All memberships are for 12 months, and expire 12 months from date of joining. evolution of design and the incorporation working on the flying shuttle loom and of innovative materials tapestry loom, as well as seeing traditional Members have access to carding, spinning, and dyeing methods annual Membership Lunch from 12:30 – 1:45pm using cochineal, indigo, and other local Directory through a secure plant sources. We offer honoraria to arti- ‘members-only’ section of the web Afternoon sessions - Friday, June 9 san-demonstrators on your behalf. Tour site, a quarterly newsletter, and can Panel Presentation followed by round- provider is Norma Schafer, Oaxaca Cultural participate in the WARP Google Discussion Group. tables discussions with all attendees par- Navigator LLC. ticipating. Topic: Working with Indigenous What’s in this Issue Dues are used for printing, mailing, artisans to create fashion and design proj- and office expenses. Weave A Real ects, bringing products to market, design Preserving Zapotec Weaving Traditions....1 Peace (WARP) is designated a 501(c)(3) influences, integrity of design, cultural Njabini Wool Crafters...... 2 nonprofit organization by the Internal impact, ethical issues, and challenges. 2017 Annual Meeting Agenda...... 3 Revenue Service. All donations to WARP are tax deductible in the • Rosio Mena Gutierrez: WARP member 2017 Membership Information...... 3 United States. and panel moderator, founder and de- From the Office...... 4 signer of Zikuri Natural Dyes, Mexico Consider a WARP Board position...... 4 For membership or additional informa- City Member Profile: Susan Schaefer Davis....5 tion, please send your name, address, • Ana Paula Fuentes: consultant/textile Moroccan Tour...... 5 telephone number, and email address designer currently working with Fabrica Thanks to WARP Donors...... 6 with appropriate check, money order, Social WARP Strategic Plan...... 6 or Paypal information in US funds payable to WARP to: • Claudia Munoz Morales: textile design- Special Scholarships Available...... 6 er, creator of the initiative ViernesTradi- Textile Techniques: Scotland: Waulking..7 Weave a Real Peace tional, counselor for Impacto Textil and Bhutan Tour...... 7 c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue leader of the Chamuchic project. Alice Brown Memorial Scholarships...8 East Lansing, MI 48823 • Carolyn Kallenborn: Associate Faculty WARP goes to MAFA...... 8 at University Wisconsin Madison has Tinkuy 2017 November 8-11...... 9 or join online at http://www.weavearealpeace.org worked with textile artisans in Oaxaca New Members...... 9-10 since 2003 (Woven Lives film) Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson...... 11 Chiapan Weavers to WARP...... 11
WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 3 From the WARP Office Rita Chapman I draw your attention to a list of very the criteria for applying for this new assis- special WARP members on page 6. These tance in this newsletter also. WARP Governing individuals and groups have given dona- If you wish, you can donate to help pay Board tions that help WARP not only to maintain for these stipends using PayPal and our Philis Alvic our organization, but email address info@weavearealpeace. Lexington, KY also to meet our mission, org, or by going to our website at http:// [email protected] to “Create a Connected weavearealpeace.org. You may also mail Term expires 2018 Textile Community”. a check made out to WARP, c/o 6182 Pol- Teena Jennings In addition to WARP’s lard Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823, and Granville, OH General Operating Fund, indicate in the memo that your donation [email protected] which funds the day-to-day expenses of is to be used to help fund the scholar- Term expires 2017 the organization, you have seen reference ships. The more funds available, the more to the Alice Brown Memorial Scholarship, people we can help get to the meeting. Judi Jetson Weaverville, NC the Endowment Fund, and Operating Re- In addition to the Alice Brown Me- [email protected] serve. What are these? The numbers are morial Scholarship Fund, WARP has two Term expires 2019 in the annual budget report every year, other funds to help cover expenses of provided in the first newsletter after the the organization. First, the Endowment Cindy Lair annual meeting. The details behind the Fund was created to help WARP to meet Boulder, CO [email protected] several Funds are below, along with infor- our mission, and to grow the organization Term expires 2017 mation about how to help WARP enable going into the future. Next is our Operat- more members, artisans, and textile en- ing Reserve, available in case of financial Sara Lamb thusiasts to be part of our annual meeting. emergency, to cover day to day expenses Grass Valley, CA if it were ever required. Luckily WARP has [email protected] First, be sure to read this year’s an- Term expires 2019 nouncement of the Alice Brown Memo- not needed to tap the Operating Reserve! rial Scholarship 2017 application process When you donate to WARP above the Judy Newland (page 8). The Scholarship Committee cost of your annual membership, you Longmont, CO will select two students to receive schol- can designate which fund you prefer to [email protected] Term expires 2018 arships to attend the meeting. (Please support, should you desire. You can also share the article and website with inter- simply allow the Board the flexibility to Karen Searle ested friends!) The WARP Board approved assign funds within the budget as re- St. Paul, MN funds to cover room and board for two quired from year to year. As a designated [email protected] non-profit under the IRS code, your dona- Term expires 2018 worthy scholarship recipients. In addition, this year the board des- tions beyond the cost of the $50 mem- Susan Weltman ignated up to $2,000 from the General bership may be deductible (consult with Brooklyn, NY Operating Fund to assist members who your tax advisor). [email protected] could not otherwise attend (page 6). This If you have questions about any of Term expires 2019 is also available to artisans who would these funds and how you can help WARP benefit from the experience. You’ll find help others, please contact me at info@ Rita Chapman weavearealpeace.org. Administrative Coordinator [email protected] Great Opportunity to be More Involved with WARP Nominate yourself or another member well as giving back to the WARP organiza- to become a WARP board member in tion. 2017. Consider the possibility of working If you have questions and/or would with other dedicated members, giving like to put your name or someone else’s yourself the opportunity to thrive under forward, please contact Teena Jennings, the common WARP mission and goals, as by email [email protected] or by phone 519/565-4047 4 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 Member Profile Susan Schaefer Davis: A Lifelong Love of Morocco Gloria Miller After finishing college in her native Min- features the work of women in two villages Susan’s LAST Public nesota, Susan volunteered with the Peace and displays pictures of the artisans along Corps in 1965 and was soon living near with their work. http://www.marrakeshex- Tour to Morocco the Atlas Moun- press.org/weaversoverview.html. She has Forming Now tains of Moroc- since been trying to make sales more self- Susan Schaefer Davis writes: co, where she sustaining and learned of a younger Peace “Many of you know I lead learned Arabic Corps volunteer who works with artisans tours to Morocco every and worked with to sell directly to international customers spring. Well, I have some big women teach- from their cell phones using a shared site: news this year. ing home eco- http://www.theanou.com If you have told yourself for nomics skills. Over the years Susan has been involved years that you'll take one Those two years in teaching and research in the US and of my trips "someday" - the evolved into life- Morocco as well as consulting for various time is NOW! While I love long friendships, national and international agencies. She showing people Morocco, academic work, has facilitated rich cross-cultural encoun- finding those who want to go is too time-consuming. and a deep appreciation of the textiles ters by leading tours focused on people So this is the LAST year I'll of the local area. While Susan was in Mo- and arts of Morocco. Her current project be offering my trips open rocco, her husband Douglas went to India is a book on the textiles of Morocco and to the general public. In as an exchange student and after their their makers which will be published next addition to the usual sights, graduate studies they went together to year by Thrums Books. She brings a wealth my introductions to local Morocco where they worked on their dis- of knowledge to this project and more people in their homes and sertations. importantly, deep personal connections, villages make these trips Susan began as a psychology major including an adopted Moroccan daughter. unique and with a desire to help other people and Susan’s connection with WARP began memorable experiences not found her way to anthropology, which when she met Alice Brown at a Quaker available elsewhere. provided her with skills to assist those who meeting in Haverford, PA, where Susan I will still offer trips for are healthy rather than focus on pathol- lives. Alice introduced her to Deborah groups that gather par- ogy. During her time in the Peace Corps Chandler, then working with Pueblo to ticipants themselves, like museums or WARP or family she came to know and appreciate the People. She soon after became a board groups, but the trip below strength of the women in Morocco and fo- member and has continued as an active is the last of my open-to-ev- cused on them in her doctoral studies. Her member and regular donor of textiles to eryone trips. Let me know dissertation Patience and Power argues the annual auction. She is happy to con- if you'd like to come ASAP, that women in Morocco do have power nect with other WARP members at sdavis@ to be sure you get a spot. in ways different than Western eyes might uslink.net; http://www.marrakeshexpress.
Friends Special Scholarships Available to Attend WARP Annual Meeting Judi Jetson Jane Brownlee Dear fellow WARP members - We're look- few hours of help with tasks associated ing forward to seeing many of you at the with the meeting. A small committee of Deborah Chandler annual meeting in Oaxaca June 8-11, 3-4 current and former Board members and want to do everything we can to will review all applications received by Michele Hament make sure that our "simple living" mem- April 15th and let you know what we bers can attend. We've designated up to can do no later than April 22nd. Write as Handweavers Guild of $2,000 from our General Operating Fund soon as you can; your letter should be Boulder to pay for scholarships for members who addressed to [email protected] or you Carol Ireland could not otherwise afford to attend. This can mail it to Judi Jetson, 3 High Bluff is also available to artisans working in Drive, Weaverville, NC 28787 Anne Kelly your country, that you recommend, who WARP members have a long tradi- Mayan Hands would benefit from the experience. tion of privately providing this assistance The process is simple; each applicant to one another, and we also encourage Nancy Meffe needs to write a letter (or email) explain- anyone who is willing and able to add to ing why you would like to attend, how the funds available for this scholarship Judy Newland your attendance would help advance to send a contribution, which will help Cloth Conspiracy WARP's mission, and the amount needed. our monies go farther. Your contribution can be sent via Paypal to info@weavea- Carol Reinhold Generally, we hope to subsidize the reg- istration fee and perhaps a portion of the realpeace.org or you can send a check if Aimee Russillo lodging for those in need, and encourage you prefer. Designate it to 2017 meeting LiSeed you to find a way to pay for your transpor- scholarship. tation. But ask for what you need and we Thanks, and let me know if you have Schacht Spindle Company, will do our best. If selected for assistance, any questions. the applicant will be asked to provide a Susan Weltman There wasn’t room in this issue for more Books You Want to Know About—which turns out to be publications in all formats by WARP members—and look forward to the continuation of this feature in an upcoming issue. LT
6 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 By: Deborah Brandon Textile Tour to Bhutan in 2017 Scotland: A Waulking Tradition Wendy Garrity writes: “I’d “Hill ù ill ì ill è hó Though hard work, waulkings were fun like to share with other Horó 's tù mo chuachag occasions, providing opportunities for so- WARP members the release (Horo, you are my darling) cialization. One woman sang a one or two of a specialized textile tour to Bhutan Hill ì ill ù ill è hó line verse and the rest of the women sang Gur muladach tha mi (Sad am I) November 23 – December the refrain. If the cloth needed. If the cloth 9, 2017. This year we are 'S mi air àirigh Ghlinn Cuaicheadh needed a touch more fulling, the leader (At the shieling of Glen Cuaich) joined by Patrizia France- added verses, and to raise a laugh, she in- schinis, who has lived in Mi cur rif' air an osan terjected gossip into her verses. Bhutan since 1982. Married (Putting a reef in the hose) My favorite waulking experience took to a Bhutanese, Patrizia is Dol a chrosadh Ghlinn Cuiaicheadh place at Chautauqua, NY, where Norman an enthusiastic collector of (About to cross Glen Cuaich)” Kennedy was running a weaving work- textile art and handwoven shop. Norman, a traditional weaver born textiles from south Asia- Ten women sat around the table, in Aberdeen, Scotland, was dedicated to Southeast Asia. Patrizia applies 21 years’ work in pounding the handwoven blanket on the preserving Scottish textile traditions. table to the rhythm of the waulking song. women’s development with Uninterested in the workshop, I international and non- Pound and pass, pound and pass. Follow- sneaked in just for the waulking. I suspect ing tradition, they passed it on to their governmental organizations the only reason I got away with it was that with a life-long interest in neighbor on the left, sunwise. Pound and my daughter was with me. A little girl at textile design and hand- pass. The meaningless refrain “Hill ù ill the time, too shy to sing with the adults, weaving. ì ill è hó” kept them thumping the cloth she stood on a chair to pound and pass in sync. It also lightened the work. Pound the cloth in sync with the rest of us. “We will travel as a small and pass. Pound and pass. group of 11 guests, with two A textile straight off the loom is stiff guides. I will also accom- pany the group to provide and a bit loose. These days, many weav- Resources: ers soften and thicken woolen fabric by expertise on weaving kush- From Wool To Waulking With Norman utara (the intricate supple- submerging it in the bathtub and swish- Kennedy, DVD, 2012 ing it around vigorously. (Some stomp on mentary weft brocade used “Warp, Woof and Waulk: Shrinking the for women’s festival dress). it.) I prefer to to agitate it in my washing Tweeds in Vermont,” by Marialisa Calta, We will cover all the major machine. Every so often, I check the prog- New York Times: Home & Garden, March sights as well as providing ress to ensure that the cloth doesn’t felt 16, 1989 (https://tinyurl.com/h9jnt6g) unique experiences through and shrink too much, to the point where Norman Kennedy—Master of Traditional our local contacts, along it cannot function as I intended. Arts (https://tinyurl.com/zp3wzbc) with hands-on dyeing and Waulking is an old Scottish method of Sgioba Luaidh Inbhirchluaidh (Inverclyde weaving opportunities. fulling handwoven fabric. The technique Waulking Group) http://www.waulk.org/ causes the blanket to soften and make Further information and a The House of Scotland link to request an itinerary it waterproof. First, the weaver sews the (http://www.houseofscotland.org/waulk ends together to form a circle. The waulk- can be found at ing.html ) http://textiletrails.com. ers then wet the fabric with a solution of au/2016/12/09/2017-textile- soap and water. (In the past, as depicted Deborah Brandon is a multi-talented math- tour-of-bhutan/ in the TV series “Outlander,” instead of ematician and former board member. She can soap and water, the women used stale be reached at 412/963-7416 or at urine, which made the dye fast.) Once [email protected] they arranged the wet fabric around the table, it was time to waulk it.
WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 7 Alice Brown Memorial Scholarships To Be Awarded for Annual Meeting in Oaxaca Alice Brown was a generous WARP Please consider helping to sustain the WARP on the Web - http:// member who donated the funds to es- fund by making a donation this year. www.weavearealpeace. tablish an ongoing scholarship program. This year the scholarship will cover org features WARP history, Each year, WARP offers scholarships for the costs of attending our meeting in annual meeting information, students and fiber artists 35 years or Oaxaca, Mexico from June 8 to 11. The member access to the direc- younger to attend our annual meeting. scholarship covers conference registra- tory, and past newsletters. You can join or renew your This is a great opportunity for early career tion and housing fees. Please help spread membership online. individuals to be impacted by what WARP the word about the scholarship to inter- has to offer. ested young people and professors. “Like” WARP on Facebook Offering the scholarship each year is a The scholarship application is now – Find ‘Weave A Real Peace’ way for WARP to expand the membership fully online at http://www.weaveareal- in the search bar on your per- while offering a huge opportunity to a peace.org/warp_scholarship/ and the sonal Facebook account to person early-on in their career in textiles. deadline is March 31. Applicants are follow what WARP members Alice Brown’s original donation was the encouraged to contact Kelsey Wiskirch- share and to make posts to seed, but the fund now relies upon the en with any questions at kelsey.viola. the page. Click ‘Invite Friends ongoing generosity of WARP members. [email protected]. to Follow’ to promote WARP to other Facebook friends.
WARP Blog - To subscribe to receive an email when a new WARP Goes to MAFA article has been posted, click The MidAtlantic Fiber Association If you’re attending the MAFA confer- on ‘Blog’ in the main menu (MAFA, http://www.mafafiber.org), a con- ence, please come to the WARP presenta- at http://weavearealpeace. sortium of approximately 50 fiber guilds tion. If you’re looking for a summer work- org. Enter your email address from eight states and the District of Co- shop opportunity, check out the many where you see ‘Subscribe lumbia, is holding their biannual confer- wonderful workshops being offered at to the WARP Blog Via Email.’ ence July 20-23 at Millersville University, the conference at http://www.mafa-con- To contribute an article to PA. WARP member Carol Ireland attended ference-2017.org. If you’re participating the blog, please email info@ the WARP annual meeting in Santa Fe and in a different regional workshop, consider weavearealpeace.org was inspired to help further the goals of working with the workshop coordinators WARP by including a WARP gathering at Google - You are invited to to add a WARP information session to join our Google Group. If you the MAFA conference. The conference help “spread the word”. want to join please email Rita committee has agreed to schedule a The session will include introductions at info@ weavearealpeace. WARP presentation during breakfast on of WARP members, a showing of the You- org to be added. Friday, July 21. This will be a chance for Tube video “The World of WARP” (find it WARP members attending the confer- on the WARP website), and a discussion Katie Simmons also main- ence to connect with each other, and for of what WARP has to offer its members. tains a WARP presence on others to learn more about WARP. ravelry.com, the knitting networking site; and on Weavevolution, http://www. As mentioned above, WARP is on YouTube! You can learn more about WARP by weavolution.com. Please viewing our two wonderful YouTube videos. One is a two minute version of WARP’s send her information at fascinating work, background on our mission, and how we network together, [email protected]. What is WARP? The second is a longer, nine minute version suitable for sharing at gatherings, called The World of WARP. Both feature beautiful imagery, and may be used to educate your friends and family. Both videos are available on WARP’s main website, http://www.weavearealpeace.org
8 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 Third Tinkuy in Peru Celebrates Textile Traditions submitted by Marilyn Murphy Tinkuy 2017 is a celebration of the and Chichilla tubular border weaving. An wealth and diversity of textile traditions optional post-gathering workshop on natu- from around the world. Tinkuy, which ral dyeing will be conducted in Chinchero. New Members means ‘gathering’ in Quechua, is the third Location: Tinkuy takes place in Cusco, Tinkuy sponsored by Centro de Textiles Peru, the capital of the ancient Inca Empire, Ellen Benson Tradicionales del Cusco (CTTC) and Andean and a World Heritage site. It is a gateway to Sheri Brautigam Textile Arts. For four days, from November Machu Picchu and other important archeo- Living Textiles of Mexico 8-11, textile artists and enthusiasts, anthro- logical sites, and enjoys a dramatic setting Santa Fe, NM pologists, art historians, and many others at 11,200 feet in the Andes. A blending of will gather to share traditions, techniques, ancient Inca stonework and Colonial archi- Nancy Brown and fellowship. tecture, important cultural museums, and Cookeville, TN Beginning with a festive parade of ar- a vibrant artisan culture make this a com- tisans and a blessing by Q’ero shamans pelling destination for visitors. The Tinkuy Barbara Cohen Narberth, PA and Elders of the weaving communities, events will be held in the Cusco Convention Tinkuy 2017 continues with three days of Center in the heart of the old city. Lynette Glass presentations including keynote speakers Registration: For programming details, Lynette Glass Tapestries and workshops, cultural performances, a visit http://www.tinkuy2017.textilescusco. Amity, AR fashion show, a movie night, and spinning org. Registration packages are available plus competitions. Throughout the gathering, an early bird discount until April 30. Andean Jacki Gordon presentations and demonstrations by visit- Textile Arts http://andeantextilearts.org/ Oaxaca Craft Retreats Oaxaca de Juarez ing weavers will display the wealth and di- tinkuy_2017 is taking registration for North Oaxaca, Mexico versity of textile traditions of the Americas American participants. For registration in and beyond. Latin America, email: tinkuy2017@gmail. PorfirioGutiérrez Workshops for textile enthusiasts in- com or visit http://www.tinkuy2017. PorfirioGutiérrez y Familia clude basic and advanced backstrap weav- textilescusco.org. Teotitlan del Valle ing, spinning, Qhurpus (bobble) knitting, Oaxaca, Mexico Devin Helmen Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson St Louis Park, MN continued from page 11 Kathryn Hill natural dye sources such as cochineal, She observed more embroidery and less Lexington, VA indigo, and others, began to be replaced brocade weave for the huipil panels, and with synthetic dyes. commercial cotton was predominantly Mirrah Johnson Shifts were also seen from brocade used. The deeper she traveled into more Smithville, TN woven designs (supplementary weft) to remote regions embroidered designs, as well as the use of of La Chinantla, Ines Metzner commercial white cloth, such as muslin, weavers were Missoula Weavers Guild Missoula, MT versus hand-woven white cloth in plain and still hand spin- gauze weave. ning cotton, but New York Guild of No place fascinated Irmgard more were combining Handweavers than the Chinantec and Mazatec region it with the indus- New York, NY of Oaxaca, where she took copious notes trial variant. She on weaving techniques and design motifs. observed great Connie Peterson Storden, MN “For the rest of her life, the handwoven dress Irmgard taking field notes. fusions of ma- of la Chinantla became a source of inspira- Photo: Guy StresserPean, terials, designs, Suzanne Puckett tion and happiness for Irmgard, a place she Irmgard W. Johnson embellishments Mattawan, MI would return to on numerous occasions to Collection, Biblioteca Juan and communities document the weaving techniques,” Kirsten de Córdova (wearing each Johnson, in Saberes Enlazados. other’s huipil designs). Change and evolu- Irmgard observed and documented tion seem inevitable. changes in La Chinantla. She noted that el- Stephanie Schneiderman can be reached at derly women were still wearing traditional [email protected] huipiles, yet few knew how to weave them. WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 9 Preserving Zapotec Weaving Traditions continued from page 1 wheels. Today, many Zapotec textile fami- and local markets, today the Gutiérrez lies live in Teotitlán del Valle, a town of family creates rugs and runners to be used More New Members about 6,000, with around 70% of the popu- on floors or hung on walls, as well smaller Shanna Robinson lation engaged in some aspect of making items like placemats and mug mats (coast- Boyne City, MI textiles. ers) for fairs and tourists. Gutiérrez family rugs start as raw wool, Porfirio fears his generation might be Shannon Sheppard shorn yearly from local Churro sheep. the last one that has learned the old ways. Oaxaca de Juárez Family members wash the fleece in a Selected to participate in the National Oaxaca, Mexico nearby river. The wool is then carded and Museum of the American Indian’s Artist readied for spinning. Leadership Program in 2016, Porfirio sums Laura Srygley Austin, TX Juana, Porfirio’s sister, with her cooking up the dilemma: “In our town, other com- area next to the dyeing vats in her court- ponents of our Zapotec legacy are about to Elaine Todd yard, uses local vegetable materials, miner- vanish forever. My parents speak Zapoteco, Pacific Textile Arts als, and cochineal to dye their yarn. (Over my siblings and I speak Zapoteco and Span- Fort Bragg, CA 90% of local weavers have switched to ish, but our children speak mostly Spanish. chemical dyes, which can affect their health The same pattern is true with our art; my Jackie Wollenberg as well as the environment.) The family har- parents spin, dye, and weave. My siblings Pacific Textile Arts Mendocino, CA vests some dye materials like pomegran- and I have these skills to some degree, but ates or zapote negro from their own gar- some of us have had to find outside work in dens or purchases them from neighbors other fields to sustain our families.” and farmers. Indigo comes from one of To preserve their Zapotec heritage, the only three farms still growing the tradition- Gutiérrez family is using new approaches al crop. Cochineal insects are also farmed like fairs, talks, and exhibitions, and a web (including by Porfirio’s brother-in-law) on site. Buying their rugs is supporting not prickly pear cactus pads. Some of the wool only the extended family but also many is left undyed, to be woven into rugs using other families from neighboring towns, like natural shades ranging from white to dark sheep ranchers and farmers – and thus also brown (the rarest color). supporting the preservation and passing Meanwhile, a weaver is thinking about on of traditional Zapotec culture for future the rug’s design. Design elements can generations. reflect cultural motifs such as those on Visit the Gutiérrez family’s website at WARP Board Member Karen nearby ancient Zapotec ruins, or from sto- http://porfiriogutierrez.com/ for many Searle’s work is included ries told by his elders about cultural myths, short essays, pictures, and videos about in a new book, available the Zapotec way of life in the past and pres- their culture and process. Or visit the family this summer from Schiffer ent, and the value of nature. in their studio in Teotitlán del Valle, a short Publishing. Artistry in Fiber: Weavers use a two-harness floor loom, distance outside Oaxaca (see their website Sculpture, by Ann Lee and managing many shuttles with individual for details). E. Ashley Rooney, features colors to build up a design. After doing nearly 500 photos of After a traditional apprenticeship with Dorothy simple tasks like cleaning wool, winding artwork showing the tre- and Allen Fannin, Steve Csipke (kentestevebos- bobbins, and finishing rugs, Porfirio started mendously broad range of [email protected]) had a production silk weav- possibilities that working in weaving at 12. As is customary, his father ing studio in the 1970s. Although no longer at the three dimensions can offer. gave Porfirio his own loom, made by a local loom, his current interests are West African strip- carpenter, when he got married and set up woven kente and indigo-dyed textiles, researched his own studio. on trips to Ghana, Mali, and Burkina Faso. When the rug is cut from the loom, the warp ends are finished, and the rug is Ann Schunior ([email protected]; http://www. washed and blocked, getting it ready to be AnnsPottery.com) is a production potter with a keen interest in textiles. She’s travelled extensively sold. in the Americas, West Africa and Uzbekistan, While earlier generations of Zapotec meeting with potters and weavers who still work weavers produced blankets for their homes in traditional ways.
10 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson: A Student of Changes in Indigenous Oaxacan Culture Stephanie Schneiderman Born in Philadelphia in 1914 to Austrian external market for textiles. Commercial Pre-Meeting Tour to parents, Irmgard arrived in Mexico in 1922 threads (cottons and synthetics), dyes, and at the age of eight. Her father Robert had the tourist market became significant fac- Visit La Chinantla a keen inter- tors resulting in major shifts in the material Stephanie Schneider- est in studying man (Tia Stephanie Tours) native languag- invites WARP members es and cultures to join a Pre-Meeting Trip of the Americas to La Chinantla, prior to and moved the the WARP Annual Meet- family to Mexico, ing in Oaxaca, to continue where he began observations of the region his ethnograph- begun by Irmgard W. ic and linguistic Johnson. One community, study of Mexi- Rancho Grande, Valle Na- cional, has embarked on a co’s indigenous revival initiative to include people. From an the teaching of plain and early age, Irm- Irmgard wearing huipil gauze weave, and most gard accompa- “diario” from San Lucas Huipil detail, Rancho Grande, Valle recently, brocade weave Ojitlan. Photo: Collection, nied her father Nacional; brocade and embroidery (supplementary weft). Two Biblioteca Juan de Córdova on weekends Photo by Stephanie Schneiderman of the elderly women of the and holidays to community taught the next indigenous communities around Mexico culture and economy of local, indigenous generation, who are now City, and later to Mexico’s Chinantec and communities throughout Mexico. Clothing teaching the next. Mazatec region of Oaxaca. Along with an- was no longer solely a cultural expression, Contact Stephanie at www. thropologist and linguist Bernard Bevan but also became a commercial commodity. tiastephanietours.com for and her father, she ventured into remote re- Income vs. cultural identity became a driv- more information gions of “La Chinantla” on expeditions that ing force and motivator. would shape her life. This radical transformation compelled According to Kirsten Johnson, Irmgard’s Irmgard to meticulously document and col- daughter, her mother witnessed a massive lect what she saw, in an effort to preserve. Upon completion of her studies in cultural anthropology and ethnographic textiles at UC Berkeley, she began her systematic work in 1951. With the support of various cultural institutions, such as the National Museum of Anthropology, where she later was cura- tor of textiles, she amassed a vast collection of Mexico’s ethnographic textiles. She stud- ied and documented weaving structures, and took extensive field notes, photos, and sketches from ethnographic communities throughout Mexico. Perhaps the biggest change she ob- served was in the use and processing of Chinantec woman from San Felipe Usila fibers, such as plant fibers from agave, Photo by Stephanie Schneiderman yucca, and others, as well as hand spun shift from 1935 to 1975, where methods, cotton and native silk, giving way to com- use of materials and processes for internal mercial cottons and synthetic fibers. Also, consumption and local trade gave way to industrial materials and processes for an continued on page 9 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 11 Weave a Real Peace c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue East Lansing, MI 48823
It’s Not Too Late - Register Now for the Annual Meeting in Oaxaca! Chiapan Weavers to Attend WARP Annual Meeting Christine Eber Celia Arias Pérez and Claudia Pérez Pérez, two weavers She and the other representatives do this service without in Tsobol Antsetik (Women United) in San Pedro Chenalhó, remuneration. Claudia is a single mother living with her Chiapas, Mexico will represent parents. She weaves to support their group in Oaxaca at the WARP her five year old son. She is also meeting. This will be the first time a liaison between Tsobol Antse- that the two young women will tik and Weaving for Justice. We leave their homeland in the high- will bring some textiles with us lands of Chiapas and it promises to sell. We hope to see you in to be a life-changing experience Oaxaca! for them. I will have the pleasure of accompanying them. Celia and Christine Eber is an anthropologist Claudia speak Tsotsil, a Mayan and co-founder of Weaving for Jus- language, and Spanish. Celia is tice. She can be reached at ceber@ nmsu.edu unmarried and one of three rep- Celia Arias Pérez resentatives of Tsobol Antsetik. Claudia Pérez Pérez,
There are still a few spots open for the 2017 Annual Meeting in Oaxaca, Mexico from June 8-11! A spectacular line-up of presenters on Friday and Natural Dye, Weaving, and Textile tours on Saturday (see page 3) promise the trip of a lifetime. Go to WARP’s website (http://www.weavearealpeace.org) to sign up now. Pre- and post- meeting tours are being offered by Tia Stephanie Tours (http://tiastephanietours.com/), Eric Mindling of Traditions Mexico (http://traditionsmexico.com/), and Norma Schafer of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator (http://oaxacaculture.com/).
12 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017