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Preserving Zapotec Weaving Traditions Volume 24, Number 1 - Spring 2017 Preserving Zapotec Weaving Traditions Steve Csipke and Ann Schunior; photos by Ann Schunior In many traditional cultures, if you are their grandparents, and so it went as far Creating A Connected born into a weaving family in a weaving back as anyone in the family can remember. Textile Community community, you grow up seeing and learn- The Zapotec culture started about CreatingCreating Aa Connected ing about tex- 10,000 years ago in the Oaxaca Valley of TextileTextile Community Community tiles and your culture, acquir- To foster a global network of ing skills and To foster a global network of enthusiasts knowledge, enthusiasts who value the who value the importance of textiles to and eventu- importance of textiles to grassroots grassroots economies ally become a economies weaver or spin- ner or natural Porfirio explains that the motif on top and dyer. In this bottom rows represent Walk of the Serpent, manner, tradi- also called Shape of the River; the motif in Exchange information tional ways are the middle is Sacred Necklace, made of seeds RaiseRaise awareness awareness of of the the importance importance of passed from from plants that are considered sacred foods. Porfirio Gutiérrez generation to textiletextile traditions traditions to grassroots to grassroots economies generation. But as families start to use com- economies southwest Mexico (now part of the modern Mobilize textile enthusiasts mercial dyes and markets change, this knowl- state of Oaxaca). The Zapotecs originally Mobilize textile enthusiasts edge is in danger of were backstrap weavers using local cotton. Create conversations that result in action being lost. Porfirio In the sixteenth century, the Spanish intro- Create conversations that result in Gutiérrez and his duced sheep, floor looms, and spinning action family are working against this trend to preserve their Textiles are an important component of Zapotec textile tra- Textilesthe are human an important experience. component ditions. of the human experience. Porfirio, the Networking and sharing information ninth of eleven Networkingcreates andan environment sharing information for children, recalls, createsconstructive an environment action. for “As kids we would Making connectionsconstructive between action. textile play around my A rug on the loom artisansMaking worldwide Connections promotes between positive father’s big loom and watch as a new design social change. would emerge. He would tell us about the textile artisans worldwide promotes positive social change. symbols he was weaving and our Zapotec Master dyer Juana Gutiérrez Contreras, Interacting with people who have similar heritage.” Porfirio’s mother carded wool and Porfirio’s sister, using the cochineal metate, Interactingvalues enricheswith people our wholives. have spun yarn. Porfirio’s parents learned from with baskets of dyestuffs in the background. similar values enriches our lives. continued on page 10 1 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 New Markets for Njabini Wool Crafters Janice Knausenberger A group of motivated Kenyans are trans- beautifully woven. At one kilo or barely two forming their lives by adding value to wool pounds, each throw measured approxi- from sheep raised sustainably in native mately 51 inches wide by 72 inches long, grasslands where endemic and endan- with additional generous fringes. gered birds, including the Sharpe’s Long- I returned with the two throws to the WARP Newsletter claw, live. The Njabini Wool Crafters Coop- US, where a designer I know commis- published quarterly by erative, dedicated to improving livehoods sioned more throws, including new de- Weave A Real Peace and raising public awareness, offically was signs. Through the use of Fiberworks PCW Volume 24, Number 1 Spring 2017 formed in 2012. This cooperative grew from (weaving software), the team in Njabini and Editor: Linda Temple a few members of the conservation group I could work together. It has also been a boon to have internet calls for free where Send address challenges and changes can be easily dis- corrections to: cussed. [email protected] The production of their first interna- or mail to tional order was a learning process. Njabini Weave a Real Peace now has a better grasp of production time c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue and supplies needed. They are working on East Lansing, MI 48823 attaining more looms and smaller pieces of equipment that will speed production. The deadline for contributions to the Friends of Kinangop Plateau, who, in 2004, Summer issue of the WARP had loosely formed to promote weaving newsletter is and spinning since employment is a chal- May 5, 2017 lenge in this remote area of the Aberdares Mountains. In addition, the members edu- Send articles and cate the public on environmental issues correspondence for and work with the newsletter to: Linda Temple local sheep 1230 NE 70 farmers to Oklahoma City, OK 73111 conserve the The throws shown are either in natural [email protected] birds and colors of black and white or with a tan from 405/478-4936 (phone) promote im- a natural dye. Since that first order, Njabini provement of has produced more pieces, modified some sheep breeds designs, woven new designs, and and used Information about an and farming other natural and/or commercial dyes. organization or service in practices. Njabini Wool Crafters Cooperative is this newsletter does not The major now working on accessing local high end constitute an endorsement focus of my markets. Their goal is to become sustain- by WARP. visit in Njabini able in the near future. In the past year, in May 2016 they moved into their new workshop and Submissions may be was to work are currently training more spinners and edited or shortened at the with them to weavers to meet the demands for their pro- discretion of the editor. produce handspun woolen throws of high cessed wool. They have come a long way quality and light weight. We worked in- since 2004 when they only wove rugs on tensively to improve each step of produc- nail looms attached to the walls. tion. Precision in all areas, from washing to Janice consults with weaving groups in Kenya, par- spinning to weaving, was a necessity. They ticularly addressing technique, design, and efficiency. blended wool, spun various novelty and Her personal expression in fibers comes by incorporat- standard types of yarn, and experiment- ing her experiences and loves in life in complex, often ed with new designs. By the end of three pectoral, weavings of painted and dyed threads. She weeks, two throws of different designs were can be reached at [email protected] 2 WARP Newsletter - Spring 2017 2017 WARP Annual Meeting Agenda Judy Newland Morning Sessions - Friday, June 9 Afternoon sessions - Friday, June 9, cont’d Marta Turok, our Attendees will select discussion ques- keynote speaker from tions prior to meeting and break into small Weave A Real Peace Mexico City, is an ap- group leaders to talk about issues/ideas Membership Information plied anthropologist facing textile artisans around the world www.weavearealpeace.org who focuses on socio- 2017 Annual Dues economic artisan de- 1:00–7:00 - ExpoVenta – a marketplace of $50 - Individual in US/Canada velopment in Mexico; regional artisans $90 - 2 year special - Individual US/ she is considered one 6:00–7:30 Reception with visits to Museo Canada of the foremost experts on Mexican Folk Textil de Oaxaca (possible film screening) $40 - International Individual Art and will discuss her work and what it Simple living - Choose an amount means for artisans in a global world market Saturday, June 10 - 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. you can live with Lorena De la Piedra will discuss the Natural Dye, Weaving, and Textile Tour, $50 - Guilds/Organization work of the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation, includes van transportation, lunch, and $30 - Sister/Gift Subscriptions its commitment to artisan development, visits to artisan studios with demonstra- $75 - Business bringing products to market, and the natu- tions and discussion of the natural dye $75 - Supporting Individual ral dye culture of Oaxaca tradition in Oaxaca. Participants will meet $100 - Friend of WARP Porfirio Gutierrez, Teotitlan del Valle weavers of rugs, home goods, handbags, $150+ - Patron of WARP master weaver, will present Innovation and clothing in their home studios. Tour and Preservation in Zapotec Weaving – the will make four stops. You will see weavers All memberships are for 12 months, and expire 12 months from date of joining. evolution of design and the incorporation working on the flying shuttle loom and of innovative materials tapestry loom, as well as seeing traditional Members have access to carding, spinning, and dyeing methods annual Membership Lunch from 12:30 – 1:45pm using cochineal, indigo, and other local Directory through a secure plant sources. We offer honoraria to arti- ‘members-only’ section of the web Afternoon sessions - Friday, June 9 san-demonstrators on your behalf. Tour site, a quarterly newsletter, and can Panel Presentation followed by round- provider is Norma Schafer, Oaxaca Cultural participate in the WARP Google Discussion Group. tables discussions with all attendees par- Navigator LLC. ticipating. Topic: Working with Indigenous What’s in this Issue Dues are used for printing, mailing, artisans to create fashion and design proj- and office expenses. Weave A Real ects, bringing products to market, design Preserving Zapotec Weaving Traditions ...1 Peace (WARP) is designated a 501(c)(3) influences, integrity of design, cultural
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