ative

132

er course

Today, the Today,

ease and im-

way construc-

er between Lake er between

ed, dredged chan- ed, dredged

ope-bending, snag-

t. Lucie River and River t. Lucie

ests — striving to de-

tuart, on the Atlantic

eautiful Island (on the eautiful Island

outhwest Florida, Hatchee = Hatchee Florida, outhwest

ways — have propelled devel- propelled ways — have

esent waterway.

estern portion of the Okeechobee

front and waterwayfront uses.

ofound ways.The riv

its abruptly cut banks and straight-lined,

ed, navigation-optimiz

The Caloosahatchee [Caloosa = indigenous N

It is hard to recognize from today’s Okeechobee Wa- Okeechobee from today’s to recognize is hard It

ALTERING THE ALTERING CALOOSAHATCHEE FOR LAND AND WATER DEVELOPMENT

Americans who inhabited S Seminole for ‘river’] is a microcosm of Southwest Florida’s of Southwest is a microcosm for ‘river’] Seminole waterways, in which multiple inter velop waterfront real estate, to create new for- land from estate, to create waterfront real velop merly overflowed swamplands, and to incr merly overflowed prove the navigable water prove opment in many pr Okeechobee (on the east) and B Okeechobee west) has been selected to illustrate the effects, both la- west) tent and direct, of land drainage and water tent and direct, tion policies on water

Pre–development Geography

terway — with flood-controll nel — the once meandering, shifting, r laden course of the Caloosahatchee. Caloosahatchee is the w Waterway, which stretches from which stretches S Waterway, Ocean, to San Carlos Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. and the Gulf Carlos Bay to San Ocean, The route crosses the state via the S crosses The route Canal, Lake Okeechobee, and the Caloosahatchee (see Canal, Lake Okeechobee, Map 1 in the Dredging History chapter). Map 1 in chapter). Map History 1 in the Dredging Map the present chapter shows the antecedent riv chapter shows the present superimposed on the pr

Note: The main river channel on the historic map is colored blue to increase visibility. The same Devil’s Elbow historic channel has been interpreted in red over a Trout Creek Cyp modern (1995) aerial photograph mosaic, which is Cr Olga positionally accurate, with reference to the 1887 Franklin Corps of Engineers map for details. Lock

Hickory Creek Thompson’s Cutoff Hollingsworth G. Hollingsworth Ferry Thorp Trout Cr. Bayshore Quaker Daughtry’s Alex Longope Landing Creek Devil’s Elbow Swimming Olga Capt. Cutler Pen Dr. Jas. Wm. Orange Parkinson Hickory Kellum Cy Beautiful Loper Ferry Creek Island River Frank Marion Hendry H. Stephens C Lee’s Huff’s J.M. Landing Pasture Stephens S 1.00 1.0 2.0 Tice Demi-John Hammock Daughtry’s Miles Creek Thompson’s Cutoff 12 Mile Creek

Beautiful Island 133

Pollywog Branch

Bee Branch

Jack’s Branch Denaud Bee Branch Pollywog Branch Dyer’s

Bowman Jack’s Branch Hendry’s Cypress Pasture Creek Robt. Dun’s Little Fort Denand Louis Run Alva Fort Murray Map 1 (part 1). Simmons Branch Apiary Owanita G. Thorp John

Cane Caloosahatchee Channel, 1887 and 1995. English Hendley’s Fort Mill Dr. Mrs. Landing Anders Simmonds Alva Solomon . Dr. Jas. Kellum Cypress Wm. Perkins Cane Perkins Jas. Banks Creek Jos. Anders Sugar Eliza Mills J.B. McKinley Anders

Note: The main river channel on the historic Note: map is colored blue to increase visibility The same historic channel has been interpreted in red over a modern (1995) aerial photograph mosaic, which is positionally accurate, with reference to the 1887 Army Engineers map for details. 1887 134

1.00 1.0 2.0

Miles Coffee Mill Hammock

Ortona Long Lock Hammock Creek

Coffee Mill Lake Flirt Hammock

Deauman’s La Belle Branch

Louis Murray

Stewards Fort Thompson, Patrick’s Capt. F. A. Hendry Landing Lake

Okeechobee 135

Moore Haven Lock

Lake Hicpochee

Lake Okeechobee

Map 1 (part 2).

Sugar Berry

Hammock Caloosahatchee Channel, 1887 and 1995.

Lake Hikpochee el

ve

al-

es)

er-

eral

elle.

ecipi-

136

ulf of

w bound-

Thompson, 17

w through the w through

ver before major before ver

Thompson Rapids

elle, 13 feet at Alva,

es), Bonnet (500 acr

est to collect in sev

n the wet season (May– n the wet

wn as Lake Flirt, located at wn as Lake Flirt,

ched 4–10 feet (varying with sea-

Before human intervention, the Caloosahatchee origi- Before

During the dry season (November–April), the region the dryDuring season (November–April),

nated in a geologic basin kno Ft. Thompson, approximately 2 miles east of La B Thompson, approximately Ft. The formation was per sonal water levels ) above the western Caloosahatchee v ) above sonal water levels ley, creating 0.9-mile-long rapids that fed the creating ley, Caloosahatchee. To the east, ephemeral marshes season- To Caloosahatchee. ally connected a series of lakes. I October), high water would spill out of the shallo October), ary and sheet flo of Lake Okeechobee ephemeral marshes and swamp for smaller lakes–Hicpochee (9,000 acr smaller lakes–Hicpochee the rapids and spilling over (1,000 acres)–before and Flirt flowing into the Caloosahatchee and to the G flowing Mexico. The Ft. Thompson Rapids set the head of navi- The Ft. Mexico. gation. The lower portion of Map 2, from the Black sur- the Black 2, from portion of Map The lower gation. vey of 1887, shows land use and land co of 1887, shows vey development occurred. development

of marshes surrounding Lake Hicpochee and the riv Lake Hicpochee of marshes surrounding bed from that lake to the foot of Ft. bed from would dry up so much that a horse could be ridden in the channel. Normal high water would raise the water lev channel. Normal downstream by 2 feet at Ft. Thompson, 3 feet at Ft. 2 feet at Ft. by downstream Denaud (La Belle) and Alva, 2 feet at Olga and 1 foot at 2 feet at Olga and Alva, (La Belle) Denaud Ft. Myers. Freshets caused by continuous heavy pr caused by Freshets Ft. Myers. tation increased the water level to historic heights abo the water level tation increased mean water of as much as 12 feet at Ft. feet at Ft. Denaud, 14 feet at La B feet at Ft. Denaud, and 6 feet at Ft. Myers. Source: Southwest Florida Water Management District (1995)

Denaud Franklin Lock Alva Olga

Land Use/Land Cover Urban & Built—Up Agriculture Shrub, Brushland, Rangeland Upland Forest Water Wetlands Mangrove So Barren Land Lake 137 Okeechobee Moore Haven

Ortona Lock Lake Hicpochee

La Belle

2.50 2.5 5.0

Miles

Map 2.

Land use/land cover along the Caloosahatchee, 1887 and 1995.

Source: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Capt. W.M. Black (1887) x-

w-

d

n

unta

that

ound

e

There

”

138

B

-

s course

tant up-

’

r

l

esh, fine-

e

7

2

0

a

er

-

mall settle-

t

v

1

i

o

udimentary

ees. Channel

R

development

T

–

e

est, scrub, grass- est, scrub,

eated abandoned

e

ed sediments were

etch from Beauti- etch from

l

.

.

.

i

8

5

3

-6

warp-around,

56

62

Ms

“

d where cattle drives d where

oss the necks of the me-

et season dramatically in-

d

e

n

s meandering course.

r

’

e

o

B

o

-

r

n

-2

M

e

e

17

29

/

v

v

i

e

a

l

oute to the shipping pier at P

y. The Seminole Wars and the Civil Wars The Seminole y.

l

Rs

e

H

B

a

e

l

.

.

.

L

i

0

7

6

+9

21

20

Ms

the larger vessels to the larger vessels

y conditions along the

d

n

e

l

l

B

-

e

r

4

10

57

B

e

-3

These extreme, cyclical variations in stream flow con- flow in stream variations cyclical These extreme,

Torrential rains during the w Torrential

Land and waterway developments were slow to occur slow Land and waterway were developments

v

a

i

L

Rs

tributed to the Caloosahatchee were 102 river-bends in the 64-mile str 102 river-bends were ful Island to Lake Okeechobee in the pr to Lake Okeechobee ful Island was especially diffi- the river 1). Navigating period (Table cult at the low-water stage. Some of the sharper mean- stage. Some cult at the low-water ders required ders required is, to run their bow up on shore, attach a spring line up on shore, is, to run their bow to trees, back down to a second point, swing ar back down to trees, and go ahead at the next point, and so on until the bends were passed (Figure 1). passed (Figure bends were creased the volume of discharge and sediment load, lead- the volume creased ing to channel scouring and flooding of adjacent lo lands. During this period, coarser-textur lands. During deposited both as point-bars on the inside of the mean- ders and along the banks of the natural lev deepening occurred on the outer bends, and fr deepening occurred textured alluvium was deposited on the adjoining flood- textured plain. At these high water stages, the meandering plain. At Caloosahatchee in places cut acr ander spurs, shortened its course, and cr meanders or oxbows.

during the 19th centur War were major deterrents to settlement expansion. E major deterrents were War tensive cattle grazing was a common land use. S tensive ments did evolve along the river, usually occupying former along the river, evolve did ments military outposts. Ft. Thompson was an impor military outposts. Ft. river location because of the for river crossed the rapids en r crossed Rassa. The land cover along much of the riv The land cover Rassa. Thompson was in upland for south of Ft. land, and some homesteads with small agricultural farms (Map 2). The lower portion of Map 1 highlights the portion of Map The lower 2). (Map names of some of the homesteaders. R waterwheel-type irrigation systems permitted farming during the dry season (Figure 2). during the dry season (Figure

/

a

v

l

e

A

.

.

.

l

i

2

4

9

-8

10

18

Ms

d

n

e

B

-

v

l

r

1

10

e

-0

A

v

/

Table 1. Table

i

a

Rs

g

l

Oe

e

development and contemporar development

l

.

.

.

i

–

1

72 0

89

-7

Ms

a

d

g

l

n

e

O

/

B

-

d

r

-7

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e

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i

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Rs

l

u

f

i

s

t

e

7

7

5

l

u

.

.

.

i

a

1

73 0

95 7

e

-2

Ms

Ba

iver bends between pre bends between iver

r

y

e

a

v

i

w

r

R

e

t

t

a

n

e

W

m

e

p

e

o

e

l

b

c

e

o

n

v

h

e

e

c

r

d

e

e

f

–

e

f

e

k

i

r

D

P

O

Figure 1. Four-point rope bend.

Figure 2. Water wheel irrigation. Figure 2. Water

Distance and number of r Distance Caloosahatchee/Okeechobee waterway. Caloosahatchee/Okeechobee e

om

139

owth that owth

t and com-

ein the upper river

ove the early settlers fr ove

esources, but communities ther esources,

vice centers downstream. The key to vice centers downstream.

wer river course for transpor wer

The 1880-90s was a period wher

valley represented the backbone of potential gr represented valley resided in its agricultural r resided depended on the lo munication with ser sustainable regional growth rested on creating a scheme on creating rested growth sustainable regional to manage the floods, which dr

their homes, damaged farmlands, and discouraged agri- cultural development.

ears and the

Valley. Citrus Valley.

ompted North

1910.

oad entered Ft. Myers, in 1904. Ft. Myers, oad entered

City of Athens,

The winter freezes of 1892 and 1899 pr The winter freezes

Figure 3. SS

Florida citrus growers to reestablish their groves south of their groves to reestablish citrus growers Florida the freeze line and in the Caloosahatchee the freeze production increased rapidly in subsequent y increased production transport of fruits and shipment of supplies became de- pendent on riverboat transport (Figure 3). Large catches transport (Figure pendent on riverboat of fish were brought down the river from Lake from the river down brought of fish were Okeechobee, although the business did not become ex- Okeechobee, tensive until after the railr tensive een

lirt.

140

e 4 to 6

s course

’

ests were

er

y the state

flooding of

eed with lo-

–

Valley at that Valley

keechobee to

er above Alva er above

er navigation.

ents

ed that floodwa-

s dredging opera- s dredging

’

ed and settlements

er navigation some-

way improvements.

om Lake Okeechobee

e a greater part of the e a greater

elle there was only 1.5 elle there

w the passage of com-

esponsible for all dam-

ere blown up by unknown up by blown ere

oved an application to close oved

oute for steamers some 300

oved by deepening the chan- by oved

keechobee was not maintained

, was to devise a scheme that

ed; boats drawing a mer

n 1914, the river at its junction n 1914, the river

y straightening the riv

ere flooding of the farms and cit- ere

esult of Disston

.

The net incidental r

The dilemma facing the Caloosahatchee

By 1913, however, drainage operations b 1913, however, By

tion was to open up a water r miles long from the Gulf of Mexico to the interior of of Mexico the Gulf miles long from Florida via the Caloosahatchee and Lake O Florida Kissimmee (Figure 5). But the dredged channel betw the dredged 5). But Kissimmee (Figure Ft. Thompson and Lake O Ft. and shoals quickly appear

inches grounded repeatedly in Bonnet Lake and Lake F repeatedly inches grounded More significantly, during the wet season, floodwaters during the wet significantly, More from Lake Okeechobee rushed unrestricted down the down rushed unrestricted Lake Okeechobee from channel and caused sev rus groves in the lower valley. in the lower rus groves

time, much as it is today would coordinate land drainage with riv would coordinate Residents in 1913, for example, believ Residents ters could be mitigated b and navigation could be impr nel, though attempts to straighten the riv would probably require building levees well back from well building levees require would probably the river banks which would depriv the river citrus groves along the river from protection. The heated protection. from along the river citrus groves battle between land drainage and riv battle between times raged beyond the rule of law. Makeshift dams built Makeshift the ruletimes raged beyond of law. by private interests across the canal between Lake the canal between across interests private by Hicpochee and Bonnet Lake w Hicpochee parties. In 1902, the state appr parties. In the canal but held Lee County r ages. The Army Engineers, at that time, agr The Army Engineers, ages. cal and state government that navigation inter cal and state government insufficient to warrant federal water

elsewhere in central Florida had lowered the water level had lowered in central Florida elsewhere in Lake Okeechobee so much that navigation in the up- in Lake Okeechobee per Caloosahatchee was seriously impair were being abandoned. I were with the lake dried out and at La B feet of water, not enough to allo feet of water, mercial river traffic. The State of Florida dredged a 5- dredged of Florida The State traffic. river mercial foot-deep by 40-foot-wide channel fr foot-deep by to La Belle. The seesawing of natural ev to La Belle.

river lowlands followed by shoaling of navigation chan- by followed lowlands river

Corona

oss-

amilton

est of Lake

estern end of

der to move the der to move

ests, some want-

ere river bends west river ere

Figure 5. Tow steamer Tow Figure 5.

way for pleasure boating way for pleasure

verflowed lands adjoining verflowed

ee

ig-

ery

der to deepen the channel. A

educe and maintain water lev-

Valley

Thompson Rapids w

er to its

y 5 feet, from Lake Okeechobee to the Lake Okeechobee y 5 feet, from

south just west

s work was not s work

’

–

The development historyThe development of the Caloosahatchee is a

The record of government intervention the State by of government The record

Land Reclamation or River Navigation?

record of competing and conflicting inter record ing to control flooding by upland drainage and others flooding by ing to control striving to build an inland water and commercial use. and commercial

of Florida and federal agencies had its origins in the 1880s, of Florida with attempts to drain the o Lake Okeechobee and to r Lake Okeechobee

els in the river. By 1887, the Atlantic and Gulf Coast and Gulf 1887, the Atlantic By els in the river. Canal and Okeechobee Land Company of H Canal and Okeechobee Disston had opened a channel, with a minimum cr Disston section of 22 feet b headwaters of the Caloosahatchee at the w Lake Flirt. The Disston dredges were brought up-river were dredges The Disston Lake Flirt. from Ft. Myers. Four of the most sev Four Ft. Myers. from of Ft. Thompson were straightened in or Thompson were of Ft. dredges upstream. The 4-mile stretch of rock-floored out- of rock-floored The 4-mile stretch upstream. dredges crops, including the Ft. crops, was dynamited in or Flirt, provisional dam was built ev provisional few miles to the rear of the few miles to the rear dredge to obtain sufficient wa- dredge ter to float the equipment (F ure 4). Disston ure intended to benefit navigation. Indeed, since the contract with Indeed, the state included the drainage of the Caloosahatchee and confining the riv banks, the dredged channel was banks, the dredged to have been closed and a lev to have extended north of Lake Hicpochee. Nearly 2 Nearly of Lake Hicpochee. miles of this levee was con- miles of this levee structed when the company ceased operations and the chan- nel was never closed. nel was never

Figure 4. River dredge. ngi-

wing

141

enaud. The

y to provide

y promoting

ol and water sup-

keechobee and the

olumes. In times of olumes. In

otects the resources

es–flood control and es–flood control

ogram objectives are ogram objectives

e learn from past mis- e learn from

y municipalities, agri-

t faces many of the same

outh Florida Water Man- Water outh Florida

oore Haven, Ortona, and Haven, oore

elopment and use, includ-

egard for the downstream egard

edominantly on water man-

ws necessary to support the

ehensive Everglades Restora- Everglades ehensive

way have recently called for federal recently way have

Water Act in 1972, the Army E Act Water

ealized in the 21st centur ealized

way?

The Caloosahatchee today is still in serious need of

Resource managers with the S Resource

Does history itself? Can w Does repeat

estuary, which historically extended to Ft. D estuary, waterway again in the 1960s, but follo was dredged passage of the Clean

neers has restricted its functions to operation and annual neers has restricted maintenance of the locks at M Franklin.

management and maintenance. I varied challenges of its past dev varied ing competing demands for water b culture, commercial and recreational boating activities, and and recreational commercial culture, the functional requirements of the natural aquatic system. the functional requirements In times of flooding, the Caloosahatchee is used as a con- In duit for discharge with little r impacts of water quality and water v drought, water releases from Lake Okeechobee often do Lake Okeechobee from water releases drought, not maintain minimum flo critical productive functions of natural systems nor do they critical productive retain necessaryretain water depths in the federal navigation channel of Lake Okeechobee. agement District view and treat this waterway view and treat as a drain- agement District age and storage component of Lake O multi-billion-dollar Compr tion Project. Their concerns and pr tion Project. regional in scope and focus pr regional agement functions, primarily flood contr ply. Stakeholders and organizations concerned about the Stakeholders ply. condition of the water assistance from the Army Engineers to address its naviga- to address the Army Engineers assistance from tion and water-based eco-tourism needs b coordinated management and sustainable use. coordinated takes? Is there hope that both objectiv there takes? Is navigation–can be r for sustainable management that pr and allows for use by all citizens who live, work and recre- work who live, all citizens for use by and allows ate along this water

eam

W.P.

edged

operty

uction

eated a

er dredg-

ulf of Mexico

keechobee Water-

ea and work with the ea and work

estern component of the

ucture was built in 1962 ucture

and pumping stations to

ulf’s tidal influence for the

Walter Prospect Franklin, a Franklin, Prospect Walter

es and considerable pr

er which existed prior to 1881.

This decision led to constr

ridge crossings were modernized. were ridge crossings

keechobee region. The federal gov- keechobee region.

Disastrous floods in 1922, 1923, 1926, and 1928 Disastrous

As a result of this work, the Caloosahatchee upstr of this work, As a result

The Okeechobee Waterway was again modified in the Waterway The Okeechobee

In 1969, the structure was re-dedicated as the 1969, the structure was re-dedicated In

nels–fostered ambivalent public policies and cr ambivalent nels–fostered laissez-faire attitude which resulted in little prescriptive attitude which resulted laissez-faire action or long-term planning.

caused the loss of many liv damage in the Lake O ernment authorized the Army Engineers in 1927 to sur- the Army Engineers ernment authorized vey the Caloosahatchee drainage ar vey state’s Flood Control District (now the South Florida the South (now District Control Flood state’s Water Management District) to improve both flood pro- to improve District) Management Water tection and navigation. of the Hoover Dike around Lake Okeechobee as well as as well Lake Okeechobee around Dike of the Hoover the dredging and channel straightening of the the dredging Caloosahatchee. The 1930s was a period of riv Caloosahatchee. ing and construction of drainage canals, navigation locks bottomlands. adjoining river water from excess remove at Moore Haven and Ortona Haven at Moore

from Beautiful Island was forever changed from the pic- changed from was forever Island Beautiful from turesque, meandering riv turesque, It took on a new and straight- form, that of vertical-banked It lined, flood-controlled, navigation-designed, dr lined, flood-controlled, channel. It was also transformed into the federally autho- channel. It rized, Army Engineers-maintained O Army Engineers-maintained rized, way (C-43 Canal), an intrinsic w Cross-State Ship Channel that links the G Ship Cross-State to the Atlantic Ocean. to the Atlantic

mid-1950s. The channel was enlarged to an 8-foot depth mid-1950s. and 250-foot width. B An additional lock and dam str at Olga to assure a freshwater supply for Lee County and a freshwater to assure at Olga to prevent saltwater intrusion upstream. to prevent

Franklin Lock in honor of Franklin local entrepreneur and concerned member of the local entrepreneur Okeechobee Waterway Association. This lock artificially Association. Waterway Okeechobee sets the eastern limit of the G

e

er

1966.

1966 -

the Sea

NJ. p. 17. NJ. p.

Nostrand,

“In Deep “In

Understand

studied, and

account more

Challenge,”

The Necessity to The Necessity

can be taken into

and still so poorly

—H. B. Stewart,

understood so that it

well-being is so great well-being

“But the influence of “But

sea must be explored,

—Published by Van by —Published

life and on his futur

the sea on man’s daily the sea on man’s

intelligently whenev

man is faced with any

problem relating to his relating problem

comprehended that the comprehended

physical environment.” –

way;

142

lirt no

This pro-

oximately

keechobee

ailable at various

elle (Map 2). elle (Map

ed from the historic past. ed from

igh levees runigh levees parallel to

multi-billion dollar fed-

ea is being studied to deter-

eating an above-ground reser- eating an above-ground

ver that confronts the passing that confronts ver

eshwater section of the water

Lower Low Water)

Depths Measured in

Everglades region. Everglades

(In Feet, Relative to Mean

–

2001 by Florida Sea Grant

Lake Hicpochee, now approximately 215 acres of open 215 acres approximately now Lake Hicpochee,

There are recreational boat facilities along the recreational are There

The land use and co

water, is a mere relict of its past extent. Lake F relict is a mere water, longer exists, though the ar mine the feasibility of cr voir with a total storage capacity of appr voir 160,000 acre-feet (about 7 billion cubic feet). 160,000 acre-feet posed reservoir would be part of the Comprehensive Ev- would be partposed reservoir of the Comprehensive erglades Restoration Plan,erglades Restoration a eral project to correct water flow problems created by created problems water flow to correct eral project dredging and channelizing the O dredging Kissimmee

Okeechobee Waterway. Some towns, like Moore Haven like Moore towns, Some Waterway. Okeechobee and La Belle, provide downtown docking for transient downtown provide and La Belle, vessels. In-the-water boat storage is av In-the-water vessels. locations within the fr during the sum- left here northern states are boats from mer season protected from coastal storms. from mer season protected

boater has been dramatically alter Major riverine forest tracts are gone, replaced by agricul- by gone, replaced tracts are forest riverine Major ture and urban built-up uses. H ture the waterway from Lake Hicpochee to the historic Ft. the waterway Lake Hicpochee from Thompson area, just east of La B Thompson area,

y

Map 3.

er

ap

ws.

way

way that

ap 1 and

y intrigu-

s Elbow in 1887 and 2001.

Waterway

’

29

Devil

tion of the river

cial traffic of the

s Elbow," from s Elbow,"

34

’

25

ely, may encounter ely,

11

om the years 1887 and om the years

cess stormwater flo

Detailed plans showing water depths in the

outhwest Florida, func- Florida, outhwest

ences in water depths as

e found on some, while oth-

y side. About 35 abandoned y side. About

the form and function of the

egetated, shoaled, and snag-laden.

oughfare for transiting recreational oughfare

Detail of "The Devil the Army Engineers Map of 1887 the (Depths in Feet, Relative to Mean Low Water)

rly half of the meanders along the riv

Although one still, rar

The scenic Caloosahatchee, the historic water

The Okeechobee Waterway and former vestiges of the and former vestiges Waterway The Okeechobee

Contemporary Geography fostered settlement of interior S fostered tions today as a thor boat traffic and a conduit for ex Where once the river meandered, it is now a series of it is now meandered, once the river Where straight legs interrupted 26 gentle bends (M by some tugs and barges, heavy commer Table 1). Table past eras is gone. Both river have changed. have river

Caloosahatchee lie side b meanders are situated between Olga and La Belle and and La Belle Olga situated between meanders are another seven are in the estuarine por are another seven downstream from the Franklin Lock. The dichotomy of Lock. the Franklin from downstream this landscape is striking: a straight-line, deep water with artificially configured banks, punctuated b with artificially configured ing side loops, heavily v A comparison of spot soundings fr 2002 shows the striking differ 2002 shows channeled river discharge bypassed the meanders (M discharge bypassed channeled river 3). Today, nea 3). Today, not fully navigable because of siltation caused b are reduced water flow through the bends. Shoreline resi- the bends. Shoreline through water flow reduced dences and boat docks ar ers are quite pristine (see Changes on the ers are and Along the Waterfront). and Along the 143

a in 1912.

Ft. Myers riverfront. Ft. Myers

Stabilized Oxbow Slopes, Denaud. Slopes, Oxbow Stabilized

Orange grove, packing house and the Caloosahatchee at Alv grove, Orange 144

e been

Lake

22

Okeechobee

esteryears (Fig-

Lake

range River, how- range River,

Moore

Haven

Hicpochee

s Elbow today is a fa- s Elbow

’

om citrus groves to resi- om citrus groves

. Devil

esult of waterway channeling

otected location.

because of its relatively deep wa- because of its relatively

”

.

hurricane hole

21

“

Lock

Ortona

The view from the railroad trestle span at Beautiful trestle the railroad The view from

Island is very much the same today as in y Island ures 6a, b). Shoreline land use on the O 6a, b). Shoreline ures ever, has changed dramatically fr ever, dential use (Figures 7a, b). Photo 8 shows the mouth of 8 shows 7a, b). Photo dential use (Figures

rope-bend. Water depths there, once 11-34 feet, hav depths there, Water rope-bend. reduced to 7-9 feet as a r reduced that bypassed this meander that bypassed vored vored minimal fetch and pr ter,

20

19

La Belle

s Elbow on s Elbow

’

18

equired warp- equired

Map 4.

aterway

14

17

aterfront

Denaud

15

16

13

y photographs referenced to spe- y photographs referenced

etch of the river from Beautiful from etch of the river

Locations of photographs along the river

s Elbow was an extremely tight river was an extremely s Elbow

’

Alva

11, 12 11,

The history of waterway in a record changes is reflected

Lock

Franklin

Changes on the W and Along the W

of past and contemporar cific sites along the str Island to Moore Haven and the western rim of Lake and the western Haven to Moore Island Okeechobee (Map 4). (Map Okeechobee

Figure 6a. Old railroad trestle at Beautiful Island.

Trout Creek and Figure 9 captures the Devil 9 captures and Figure Creek Trout the north shore. Located opposite the historic settlement the north shore. of Olga, the Devil of Olga, meander to navigate (thus its name), which r ing by larger vessels in order to pass through the tight in order larger vessels ing by

10

9

Olga

8

7

6

Ft. Myers

Island

Beautiful 145

Figure 7b. Contemporary Orange River shore.

Trout Creek, a tributary of the Caloosahatchee. Trout

.

Figure 8. A pre–development view of A Figure 8.

Figure 6b. Contemporary trestle at Beautiful Island.

Photo 9. The Devil’s Elbow, on the north shore, opposite Olga. Elbow, The Devil’s Photo 9.

Figure 7a. Steamer on the Orange River 146

view years ago of the town with its historic swing view ago of the town years bridge (Figure 12a) is different from its appearance from 12a) is different bridge (Figure today (Figure 12b). today (Figure

est from

line of protection

Alva.

estern

igure 11a, b), though the igure

om the Gulf and saltwater in- om the Gulf

W. P. Franklin Lock is the w Franklin P. W.

Figure 11a. Former boat landing at Figure 11a.

Figure 10. W.P. Franklin Lock, 1968. Figure 10. W.P.

limiting storm surge fr trusion (Figure 10). The river scene looking w The river 10). trusion (Figure Alva hasn’t changed much (F hasn’t Alva 147

Alva.

Figure 12b. Alva bridge, 2001. Figure 12b.

s contemporary boat landing at

’

Figure 11b. Today Figure 11b.

Alva bridge, view to west.

Figure 12a. Historic ig-

148

er bends (Figure 15) er bends (Figure

, West of Denaud. , West

esent waterway. Dredged spoil, Dredged esent waterway.

th bank, appears near Rialto (F

docks line the former riv

and boat or the rim of the pr side-cast on the nor

ure 16). ure

Figure 14b. Turners Landing in the early 1900s. Turners Figure 14b.

Figure 13b. Contemporary view of Oxbow

Terrell House at House Terrell

.

n some cases, however, large homes n some cases, however,

Landing have been preserved (Figures 14a, b), is been preserved (Figures Landing have

’

A boat trip into segments of the old Caloosahatchee,

where the old riverine forest has been retained (Figures has been retained forest the old riverine where 13a, b), or where old homes, such as the 13a, b), or where Turners a step back in time. I

Figure 14a. Dr. Terrell house, Turners Landing today Turners house, Terrell Figure 14a. Dr.

Figure 13a. Historic river near Ft. Denaud. 149

Figure 15. Rialto Oxbow (residential use).

Figure 16. Side cast spoil along waterway at Rialto. 150

edged

way. Figure18a way.

ossing at the Rapids.

w harbor wet storage facilities w harbor wet

longer exists, but a number of dr

dredging and portions of the settlement buried under spoil along the south bank of the water shows the flooded riverbanks years ago near Ft. Thomp- ago near Ft. years the flooded riverbanks shows son, and Figure 18b is the cattle cr son, and Figure Lake Flirt no basins in that locale no (Figure 19). (Figure

Figure 17d. La Belle bridge (now).

Figure 17c. La Belle swing bridge (then).

eplaced by

front (Figure front

obably destroyed by obably destroyed

ker has been erected at ker has been erected

igure 17c, d). Nothing remains from remains 17c, d). Nothing igure

Old Everett Hotel

(Now an Antique Store) (Now an

hompson although a historic mar

b), though the old swing bridge has been r

La Belle, a historic river town, retains much of the charac- retains town, a historic river La Belle,

ter from bygone days especially along the water bygone ter from 17a, a bascule bridge (F Ft. T its location; Ft. Thompson was pr location; Ft. its

Town dock (now). Town

Figure 17a. La Belle riverfront (then).

Figure 17b. La Belle 151

Thompson.

Thompson.

Figure 18b. Cattle crossing at Ft.

Figure 18a. River at Ft. e of

152

, marked the eastern en- , marked

s location (Figures 21a, b). s location (Figures

’

oss Lake Okeechobee, a sentinel cy- oss Lake Okeechobee,

The Lone Cypress

guiding mariners acr press, known as known press,

trance to the Caloosahatchee and became a fixtur Moore Haven at the lock Haven Moore

ill Hammock

e of the Okeechobee Water- e of the Okeechobee

Ortona Lock, near former Coffee M

Figure 20. Ortona Lock.

and west of the levee partially completed by Disston in Disston partially of the levee completed by and west the 1880s, is a major featur way (Figure 20). For many years an important many years landmark 20). For way (Figure

Figure 19. Boats near former Lake Flirt. 153

Figure 21b. Moore Haven lock.

Figure 21a. Lone cypress at the lake and canal junction. ,

ed

154

way and

y. The ques- y.

way’s artificially way’s

.

es our current coastal economy es our current

yers during the early 1900s. yers

and Gulf Coast. Hidden behind the water Coast. Hidden and Gulf configured banks are isolated remnants of the isolated remnants banks are configured Caloosahatchee’s meanders, some pristine, others alter Caloosahatchee’s by development pressures from residential, agricultural residential, from pressures development by and recreational uses. The dichotomy of water uses. and recreational river remain coupled by geography and histor coupled by remain river tion of how this historic river and its water will be man- this historic river tion of how aged and provided to sustain the rich historical and eco- aged and provided logical balance, which driv is a vexing enigma to this day is a vexing

ol

cial artery for

ver the past 100 ver

ought conditions.

edged, Okeechobee

elopment in Southwest

een the Eastern Seaboard

y is the extreme case of altering y is the extreme

on a run up the Caloosahatchee to Ft. M

Thomas A. Edison

Caloosahatchee histor

Steamer Steamer

Epilogue

land and water for coastal dev Florida. The river’s form and function o The river’s Florida. years have irrevocably changed. The historic river, which The historic river, changed. irrevocably have years was relied upon by pioneers as a commer was relied transporting goods and services, had a meandering, shift- ing course subjected to flood and dr Today, it is the straight-channel, dr Today, Waterway, used by resource managers for flood contr resource used by Waterway, and by boaters transiting betw and by ”

est

Har-

155

ojects/

in

rom the rom

”

arbor Na-

A Historical

“

arbor National

esolution Re-

ngineers for a

Watershed,

ws of the Caloosahatchee,

asin Storage Reservoir, Part Reservoir, asin Storage

rocker, 1999, rocker,

aloosahatchee and Southw

The Story of Fort Myers: The Myers: of Fort The Story

Application to Close Canal Application

Oxbo

“

“

Hicpochee Canal Not Govern- Canal Not Hicpochee

“

C-43 B

.evergladesplan.org/pm/pr

“

, Newsletter of Charlotte H , Newsletter

Newsletter of the Charlotte H Newsletter

May 8, 1902. May

”

April 17, 1902. April

”

St. Petersburg Printing Company, Inc., Fla. Inc., Company, Printing Petersburg St.

in Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan Restoration Everglades in Comprehensive

Ft. Myers News-Press, News-Press, Ft. Myers

Kimes, C.A., and L. C. C

Ft. Myers News-Press, News-Press, Ft. Myers

Scholle, Rae Ann, 1999,

Grismer, Karl H., 1949, Grismer,

Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan, June Plan, Restoration Everglades Comprehensive

Dunn, Carl, 2002, Dunn,

Lee County Government, 2002, A R Lee County Government,

Harbor Happenings Harbor

”

ment Water,

Newsletter Articles Newsletter

Overview of the Caloosahatchee and its

Newspaper Articles Newspaper

Granted!

bor Happenings, bor Happenings, tional Estuary Program, Vol. 3, No. 1, Spring, pp. 8-13. pp. 1, Spring, 3, No. Vol. tional Estuary Program,

in Estuary Program, Vol. 3, No. 1, Spring, p. 17. p. 1, Spring, 3, No. Vol. Estuary Program,

Books

History of the Land of the C Florida,

Internet

2002, http://www.evergladesplan.org/the plan/ 2002, http://www.evergladesplan.org/the 2lev_restoration_.plan.shtml

1,

(CERP), http://www proj)04.shtml

Other Sources Other

questing the Support of the Southwest Florida Congres- Florida of the Southwest questing the Support sional Delegation in Securing Funding and Technical As- Technical and Funding in Securing sional Delegation sistance from the U.S. Army Corps of E sistance from Reconnaissance Study of the Caloosahatchee F Study Reconnaissance Gulf of Mexico to Lake Okeechobee, Florida, Resolu- Florida, to Lake Okeechobee, of Mexico Gulf tion No. 02-06-20, Ft. Myers, Fla. 02-06-20, Ft. Myers, tion No.

.

”

er

asin,

60th Con-

”

Examination

iami, Fla., by iami, Fla.,

“

ess, 2nd Session,

, Washington, D.C., , Washington,

Report of the Chief of Report

ultural Resource Survey ultural Resource

”

C

“

History of the Gulf Intra- History of the Gulf

eport of of Examination

“

63rd Congress, 1st Session, Congress, 63rd

Survey Project 107 Prepared Project Survey

reliminary of Examination

R

”

”

69th Congr

P

“

urvey of Caloosahatchee Riv

”

“

S

“

, No. 1155, 2; pp. 126-129 and 214- 1155, 2; pp. , No.

Condition of Caloosahatchee B

range Rivers, Florida, range Rivers,

er, Florida, er,

“

1983,

er, Fla., er,

Navigation NWS-83-9, Na- History

”

ngineers, U.S. Army

Alperin, Lynn M., Alperin, Lynn

U.S. House of Representatives, 1879, of Representatives, U.S. House

______, 1907,

______, 1913, ______, 1927,

Black, W.M., 1887, W.M., Black,

Clausen, C.J. et. al., 1980,

References

Published Reports Published

coastal Waterway,

tional Waterways Study, U.S. Army Engineer Water Re- Water U.S. Army Engineer Study, Waterways tional sources Support Center, Institute for Water Resources, U. Resources, Water for Institute Center, Support sources S. Government Printing Office, Washington D.C., pp Washington Office, Printing S. Government 44-48.

of Caloosahatchee Riv Engineers, Vol. 2, Pt. 1, 46th Congress, 2nd Session, Doc. 2nd Session, 1, 46th Congress, 2, Pt. Vol. Engineers, Vol. 2, No. 1, Pt. 2, pp. 863-869. 2, pp. 1, Pt. 2, No. Vol.

Caloosahatchee and O gress, 1st Session, Doc. No. 347, 7 pp. No. Doc. 1st Session, gress, Doc. No. 137, pp. 16-23. 137, pp. No. Doc. Caloosahatchee Riv

Drainage Area in Florida, Area Drainage 1888, 3 pp. No. Report

Unpublished Reports Unpublished

letter to Chief of E March 30, 1887, file copy March 217, Federal Records Center, Southeast Region (Atlanta). Region Southeast Center, Records 217, Federal

of Portions of the Port La Belle Development Tract, Glades Tract, Development La Belle of the Port of Portions and Hendry Counties, Fla., for General Development Corporation, M Development for General CCC Enterprises, Inc., North Port, Fla. Port, North Inc., CCC Enterprises, esults

156

el. Many

ow. Depths ow.

century de-

wn as riffles.

th

wnstream from wnstream

a

c

emaining deepwater

days of 20

owned river valley, in- valley, river owned

oss the ends of the aban-

ough the shifting shoals and

Point

estuary (subject to tidal influ-

Redfish

er undercuts the bank, which r er undercuts

In the active meanders, water pools along the outside the active In

Today, the lower Caloosahatchee, do the lower Today,

22, b). An oxbow lake forms (Figure 22, c) when the lake forms (Figure b). An oxbow 22, river deposits sediments acr river doned channel.

bend because the riv in caving that allows the meander radius to gr in caving that allows become shallow where the river crosses from one bend to from crosses the river where become shallow the next and creates shifting sand bars kno the next and creates Riverboat captains during the hey Riverboat

velopment were familiar with these channel characteris- were velopment tics as they navigated thr sought the deepwater pools in the outer bends. Larger sought the deepwater vessels were required to warp-around the tight rope-bends. to warp-around required were vessels Present day mariners seek out the r Present pools as storm havens or “hurricane holes.” pools as storm havens Beautiful Island, is an Island, Beautiful ence), but, in essence, it is a dr undated during the post-glacial rise in sea lev of its former river meanders are clearly visible along meanders are of its former river the shoreline (Figure 23, red dashed line). 23, red (Figure the shoreline

b

d

igure

’s flood- ’s

Figure 22. Meanders in the Caloosahatchee, 1887.

o, Imperial,

time, the meanders

wn-valley. The Black wn-valley.

period, downstream

ers alternately cuts and

’s turbidity. ’s

alley features.

, a meander loop (F

ol structures were uncom- were ol structures

ed during the rainy season

22). In 22). In

Punta

Rassa

er channel oftentimes indistin-

es of Southwest Florida Rivers and

on Shoreline Use and Navigation

e a number of common physical

er course. During the pre–develop- er course. During

er would leave its existing channel and er would leave

Relict Meanders East of the Franklin Lock.

San

Bay

Carlos

Figure 23. Drowned River V

Rivers, such as the Caloosahatchee, Ester Rivers,

Viewed from the air, these streams display floodplains these streams the air, from Viewed

The meandering habit of these riv

For Your Information... Physical Featur their Influence

and Cocohatchee, shar features that affect navigation and land use along their features shorelines.

with a meandering riv ment period, when flood-contr mon, overbank flooding occurr mon, overbank as the meandering riv inundate part or all of its floodplain. Early settlers describe such events, wherein the increased flow kept the sediment flow the increased wherein such events, load suspended, with the riv guishable because of the floodwater

fills the valley floor, depositing sediments on the inside of floor, fills the valley bends and cutting away its banks on the outside, and in this process, the whole meander migrates do process, map (1887) displays many of the Caloosahatchee plain features of the pre–development of the pre–development plain features from Ft. Thompson (Figure Thompson (Figure Ft. from develop narrow necks (Figure 22, a), and, in flood stages, necks (Figure narrow develop the river may abandon, or cut-off the river -

e

”

m

“

hal-

The

iser-

delta

157

M

y chan-

) in this

“

”

River

d

This delta

ents redis-

“

hatchee

Caloosa-

elopment pe-

m

ough the delta (

een Sword Point and Point een Sword

Shell

Point

. The configuration of .

y channels (

y Shell Point at the apex Point y Shell

edged by the Army En- edged by

ulf Intracoastal Waterway ulf Intracoastal

e the main river channel di- e the main river

e barrier to navigation. S

Punta

Rassa

. Distributary, intersecting, sec- . Distributary,

y tidal currents flowing between flowing y tidal currents

est), has the characteristic

s delta (Figure 26) extends across s delta (Figure

during the early dev

’

”

hannel. This is a federally-main- hannel.

s delta deposits. The aerial photograph s delta deposits.

’

d

m

d

segment of the G

”

Auger Hole, Auger

“

d

Another feature of these rivers is the delta formed wher of these rivers Another feature

The Imperial River The Imperial

Bay

the velocity of the stream rapidly decreases as it flows into as it flows rapidly decreases of the stream the velocity a body of standing water ondary channels form wher vides and pushes out into the bay the shoreline influences the shape of the delta. the shoreline Caloosahatchee delta, delineated b (on the east) and a line drawn betw Punta Rassa (on the w Punta shape and is influenced b Matlacha Pass and San Carlos Bay (Figure 24). Indeed, (Figure Carlos Bay and San Pass Matlacha much of the shifting, shoaling character of the able Mile

through this area is attributable to tidal curr this area through tributing the river and Waterway Intracoastal the Gulf 25 predates in Figure clearly shows the many distributar clearly shows The main, navigable channel thr area.

in Figure 25) shows the side-cast spoil placed along the 25) shows in Figure north bank of the c tained channel that was first dr gineers in 1882.

lower Estero Bay and abuts the barrier island. Bay Estero lower has proved to be an effectiv has proved

low-draft coastal vessels used one of the distributar coastal vessels low-draft nels, the riod. In 1955, a private developer dredged a north-south dredged developer 1955, a private riod. In channel across the delta in order to provide boat access to provide the delta in order channel across between Estero Bay and Wiggins Pass. Wiggins and Estero Bay between

San Carlos

Figure 25. Caloosahatchee delta, 1944.

River

Imperial

Hole"

"Auger

Channel

Modern

Channel

Figure 26. Imperial River delta, 1999.

Figure 24. Chart of the Caloosahatchee delta.