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Regional Oral History Office the Bancroft Library University Of Regional Oral History Office University of California The Bancroft Library Berkeley, California The Wine Spectator California Winemen Oral History Series Legh F. Knowles, Jr. BEAULIEU VINEYARDS FROM FAMILY TO CORPORATE OWNERSHIP With an Introduction by Louis M. Martini An Interview Conducted by Lisa Jacobson in 1989 Copyright @ 1990 by The Regents of the University of California Since 1954 the Regional Oral History Office has been interviewing leading participants in or well-placed witnesses to major events in the development of Northern California, the West, and the Nation. Oral history is a modern research technique involving an interviewee and an informed interviewer in spontaneous conversation. The taped record is transcribed, lightly edited for continuity and clarity, and reviewed by the interviewee. The resulting manuscript is typed in final form, indexed, bound with photographs and illustrative materials, and placed in The Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, and other research collections for scholarly use. Because it is primary material, oral history is not intended to present the final, verified, or complete narrative of events. It is a spoken account, offered by the intenriewee in response to questioning, and as such it is reflective, partisan, deeply involved, and irreplaceable. All uses of this manuscript are covered by a legal agreement between the University of California and Legh F. Knowles dated November 16, 1989. The manuscript is thereby made available for research purposes. All literary rights in the manuscript, including the right to publish, are reserved to The Bancroft Library of the University of California, Berkeley. No part of the manuscript may be quoted for publication without the written permission of the Director of The Bancroft Library of the University of California, Berkeley. Requests for permission to quote for publication should be addressed to the Regional Oral History Office, 486 Library, University of California, Berkeley 94720, and should include identification of the specific passages to be quoted, anticipated use of the passages, and identification of the user. The legal agreement with Legh F. Knowles, Jr. requires that he be notified of the request and allowed thirty days in which to respond. It is recommended that this oral history be cited as follows : Legh F. Knowles, "Beaulieu Vineyards from Family to Corporate Ownership," an oral history conducted in 1989 by Lisa Jacobson, Regional Oral History Office, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, 1990. Copy no. TABLE OF CONTENTS -- Legh F.Knowles, Jr. PREFACE i INTRODUCTION, by Louis P. Martini v INTERVIEW HISTORY vi i BIOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION viii I EARLY YEARS AND MUSIC CAREER, 1919-1945 1 An Iconoclastic Maverick 1 Family Background 2 Trumpet Lessons 2 First Nightclub Job 3 Playing the Nightclub Circuit 4 Auditioning for Glenn Miller 4 Red Norvo's Band 5 Joining Glenn Miller's Band, 1938-1940 6 Life on the Road 7 Charlie Spivak's Band, 1941-1942 7 Army Air Force, 1942-1945 8 I1 CAREER BEGINNINGS IN SALES AND THE WINE INDUSTRY, 1946-1962 11 Metro-Goldwyn Mayer 11 Joining the Wine Advisory Board 12 Improving Wine's Reputation 13 Persuading Cornell University to Add Wine to the Hotel Training Curriculum 13 Learning About Wine 14 Wine Snobbery 15 Wine Institute's Wine Study Course 15 Recollections of Edmund A. Rossi 16 Achievements of the Wine Advisory Board 16 More on Wine Snobbery 17 Wine Advisory Board's Shortcomings 18 Taylor Wine Company 19 Selling Wine to Restaurants 20 Educating Waiters about Wine 2 1 Wine by the Glass vs. Wine by the Bottle 22 Wine Advertising 23 E.U. Gallo Winery 25 Gallo Sales Manual 25 TABLE OF CONTENTS -- Legh F-Knowles,Jr. PREFACE INTRODUCTION, by Louis P. Martini INTERVIEW HISTORY vii BIOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION viii EARLY YEARS AND MUSIC CAREER, 1919-1945 An Iconoclastic Maverick Family Background Trumpet Lessons First Nightclub Job Playing the Nightclub Circuit Auditioning for Glenn Miller Red Norvo' s Band Joining Glenn Miller's Band, 1938-1940 Life on the Road Charlie Spivak's Band, 1941-1942 Army Air Force, 1942-1945 CAREER BEGINNINGS IN SALES AND THE WINE INDUSTRY, 1946-1962 Metro-Goldwyn Mayer Joining the Wine Advisory Board Improving Wine's Reputation Persuading Cornell University to Add Wine to the Hotel Training Curriculum Learning About Wine Wine Snobbery Wine Institute's Wine Study Course Recollections of Edmund A. Rossi Achievements of the Wine Advisory Board More on Wine Snobbery Wine Advisory Board's Shortcomings Taylor Wine Company Selling Wine to Restaurants Educating Waiters about Wine Wine by the Glass vs. Wine by the Bottle Wine Advertising E.&J. Gallo Winery Gallo Sales Manual BEAULIEU VINEYARD, 1962-1969 Joining Beaulieu Vineyard Changes in Public Tastes in Wine Compacting the Line at Beaulieu Impressions of Helene de Pins Distribution Problems Recollections of Aldo Fabbrini Establishing an Allocation Program Three Cabernet Lines Gamay Beaujolais IV THE DE LATOUR FAMILY Helene de Pins The Marquis and the Marquise Dagmar de Pins Sullivan Tasting with the Marquis and Marquise The Women of the de Latour Family Winemaking Philosophy Beaulieu Winemakers HBlhne de Pinsf Influence on Winemaking HBlkne de Pinsf Management Style Helene de Pinsf Goals for Beaulieu HBlene de Pinsf Fiscal Conservatism Family vs. Corporate Ownership Georges de Latour and the Unveiling of his Private Reserve Cabernet Resistance to Innovation and Modernization Upholding Beaulieu Traditions V MARKETING BEAULIEU WINES IN THE SIXTIES Forty Wines Discontinuing Altar and Dessert Wines Accommodating Market Demands Brokers The Art of Salesmanship Allocation System Selective Selling Conservative Pricing Restaurant Wine Lists Recollections of Otto Gramlow VI THE SALE TO HEUBLEIN Offers to Purchase Beaulieu Family's Interest in Selling Negotiations with Heublein VII BEAULIEU VINEYARD UNDER HEUBLEIN, 1969-1988 Capital Improvements Cautious Expansion Marketing Changes Genesis of Radio Commercials Philosophy Behind Radio Commercials Resisting Pressures to Change Allocation System Role of Corporations in Wine Business Maintaining Beaulieu's Quality Standards Personnel Demystifying Wine Public Relations and Public Education Efforts Changes in Distribution Network Three Cabenet Styles Beaulieu Burgundy Spltlese Marketing Magnums Sauvignon Blanc Beaulieu Collection Winemakers and Winemaking Membership in Napa Valley Vintners' Association Membership in the Wine Institute VIII WINE MARKETING TODAY Strengths and Weaknesses of Various Marketing Approaches Advantages and Disadvantages of Being a Conservative Establishing a Point of Difference Following the Fashions of Public Tastes Promoting Individual Brands and Wine Consumption Threats to the Future of the Wine Industry Retirement and Future Plans TAPE GUIDE APPENDIX -- Interview with Legh F. Knowles from The Wine Investor, 20 March 1989 INDEX Legh ,Knowles a lot of that." Wine industry leader He later joined the Ernest and Julio Gallo empire in Modesto as a ASSOClAlEO PRESS de8man. But in 1962, fhshted with Gallo's reluctance to get into NAPA- Legh Knowles, a lead- the premium wine market, he went er in the wine industry and former to Beaulieu, known for its top-of- trumpeter for the Glenn Miller the-line caberneta, to be national Band, has died after a long illness. sales manager. He was 78. During hi 27 years with Beau- Knowles, who died Friday in a - lieu,Vineyards, where he worked as convalescent home, was best both president and chairman, ' known in hi later years as chair- Knowles eschewed wine's snob ap- man of Beaulieu Vineyards in Na- pet#, urging consumers instead to pa Valley and as a spokes- for chhse wines that appealed to indi- the wine industry, where hi quick vidual tastes rather than those wit, remnant voice and lack of pre- chatted up by so-called wine ex- tense made him immediately suc- perts. cessll. He retired nearly a decade ago But in earlier years, he made his as Beaulieu chairman. fame as a trumpeter with the Knowles is sunrived by his wife, Glenn Miller Band. He joined the Margaret; daughter, Barbara big-band group in 1939 and made Knowles Pinches; in-laws, VyVyan 123 records with them, including Pinches, Samantha Pinches and the well-known tunes "In The Jeremy Pinches of New Rochelle, Mood," "Moonlit Serenade" and N.Y.; sister Bernice Scott of Beth- "Tuxedo Junction." el, Conn., and a brother, Robert / He also performed with Charlie Knowles of Atlanta Spivak, :Red Norvo and Mildred Bailey. He joined the Air Force in 1941, Later, Knowles returned to the United States and became a mem- ber,of the Wine Advisory Board in 1 Washington, which in those days ,wasa promotional arm,forthe Cd- cifornia wine industry. - b. , 1 1'9 didn't know anything about wine," he,hter ded."But they 3 wanted someone who could stand up before large crowds and Pd done 1 San Francisco Chronicle August 18, 1997 Legh F. Knowles 'sory Board, a Washingtonbased trade group for California wine. A funeral will be held today for Later, he became a salesman Legh F. Knowles, a former trum- for Ernest and Julio Gallo, but he pet player in the Glenn Miller was frustrated by Gallo's lack of Band and wine industry executive interest, at that time, in the premi- who transfornied wine drinking in um wine market. In 1962 he was California. hired as sales manager at Beaulieu Mr. Knowles died Friday in Na- Vineyard, which had become the pa at 78 after a long illness. standard for f ine California wines, He was born in Bethel, Conn. producing outstanding cabernets. , He joined Miller's band in 1939, Mr. Knowles became president performing as a name artist on and chairman of Beaulieu before more than 120 recordings, includ- retiring in 1988. ing the immensely popular "In the In a historic innovation, Mr. Mood," "Moonlight Serenade," and Knowles ended up shifting Beau- 'Tuxedo Junction." lieu toward a mass market with no His father had been an ama- reduction in quality.
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