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Formation on Artificial Leather. (Under the Direction of Dr ABSTRACT SCHENK, ANNETTE KERSTIN. Study of the Impact of the Nonwoven Substrate Formation on Artificial Leather. (Under the direction of Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi.) Since 30 years, the artificial leather industry is mainly located in Asian countries, as common production processes faced little or no restrictions and regulations in terms of hazardous chemical usage over there. Nowadays available water based polyurethane coatings allow an environment-friendly approach without known health risks, resulting in a great interest to get the artificial leather market back to the US. The first step in this approach is an in depth study of prior art and an investigation of artificial leather manufacturing key factors. Processability is mainly ruled by the base substrate, which represents the most important part for artificial leather production, as it also governs future qualities such as appearance, haptic and mechanical properties. In this study various nonwoven substrates are created, characterized and compared after several stages throughout the formation process, with the help of solid volume fraction, apparent density, air permeability, flexural rigidity, burst strength, abrasion resistance, water vapor permeability and scanning electron microscopy. To further investigate the performance and impact of the different nonwoven substrates on artificial leather, a technique for creating a three-layer transfer coating grain finish topcoat, based on water-soluble polyurethane, has successfully been established and optimized. Appearance and mechanical properties of coated samples were analyzed and compared by testing the orange peel effect, flexural rigidity, burst strength and water vapor permeability. A direct comparison of mechanical properties of uncoated and coated substrates is done to study the impact of various nonwoven substrates during different formation stages on artificial leather. It has been shown that dense and even substrates are essential to obtain desired mechanical properties and enhance coatability. Increase in flexural rigidity could be observed for all coated fabrics, while there was no significant change in burst strength. In terms of competitiveness, water vapor permeability of created samples is compared to genuine leather and commercial available samples. More than half of produced artificial leather sample have a higher water vapor transmission rate than real leather and can also keep up with commercially available artificial leather samples. Finally, it has been shown that bicomponent fibers, which are capable of splitting or fibrillating into ultrafine fibers showed best performance in appearance, sensual and mechanical properties. This was especially true for coated nonwoven fabrics, which have been created of 51 island in the sea or 24 segmented pie fibers. Apart from good abrasion resistance, 4 segmented pie mixed media fabric, consisting of less fine fibers, also showed very good performance in terms of appearance haptic and mechanical properties. © Copyright 2014 Annette K. Schenk All Rights Reserved Study of the Impact of the Nonwoven Substrate Formation on Artificial Leather by Annette K. Schenk A thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty of North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science Textile Engineering Raleigh, North Carolina 2014 APPROVED BY: _______________________________ ______________________________ Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi Dr. Benoît Mazé ________________________________ Dr. Eunkyoung Shim DEDICATION To all the innocent animals used for human cravings ii BIOGRAPHY Annette Kerstin Schenk was born on February 8, 1988 in Schwäbisch Hall, Baden- Württemberg, Germany. In 2012, she received her Bachelor of Engineering degree in Textile- and Clothing Technology at Albstadt-Sigmaringen University in Albstadt, Germany. In the course of her studies she spent the compulsory internship semester at the Nonwovens Institute (NC State) in 2010. During her Bachelor’s Thesis research in 2011, she was working on the drapability of various non-impregnated carbon fiber reinforcements at São Paulo State University in Guaratinguetá, Brazil. In order to acquire her Master’s degree she returned to NC State and entered the Textile Engineering program in 2012. iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First of all I would like to especially thank Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi for providing me the opportunity to work on this wonderful research topic and making this thesis possible. I could not have wished for a better mentor and am very grateful for his input, guidance and encouragement. I would also like to thank my PI, Dr. Benoît Mazé, for his guidance, constructive criticism and helpful suggestions. I appreciated all the valuable discussions and his refreshing dry sense of humor. Moreover, I am happy to have Dr. Eunkyoung Shim in my advisory committee, who always had positive encouraging advice whenever I stopped by her office. Furthermore I am very thankful for the financial support offered by the Nonwovens Institute to fund this research project and would like to express my gratitude to the NWI team, especially the Staple and Partners lab Crew for producing the nonwoven fabrics and Amy Minton for introducing and explaining the testing equipment. My appreciation is also extended to Jeffrey Krauss for his help and advice during my work in the Dyeing and Finishing Lab. At this point I would also like to thank the companies, without whose generous support this research would never had been possible. My sincere thanks go to Groz-Beckert for providing the felting needle selection, which was essential to create needled staple fiber nonwoven fabrics Next, I would like to emphasize that it was a great pleasure to cooperate with Bayer MaterialScience, who not only provided water-soluble high-solid polyurethane dispersions iv for topcoat and frothed foam process but also shared their experience and knowledge. Special thanks go to Robert Saunders, who established the contact to the Nonwovens Institute and foremost to William Corso for his great advice and support throughout this project. Furthermore, I would like to thank Stahl for providing chemicals and recipes. I especially appreciated John Dunn’s helpful advices and know-how. I am very thankful to the Lubrizol Corporation, Tanatex Chemicals, Bozzetto GmbH, Dunleary Inc., and OM Group for all the samples they sent me to be able to realize and continue my research. I would moreover like to express my appreciation to Sappi/Warren Release Papers for sending me numerous sheets of release paper having different beautiful grain patterns and especially James Briggs for the helpful conversations and his kind support. I also appreciate the artificial leather samples sent by Izit Leather, Novatex International, Ultrafabrics LLC, Sommers Plastic Products and Duralee Fabrics, which were used for comparison. In this final paragraph, I want to thank the most important people in my life. I consider myself very lucky to have such wonderful friends and lovely family, who consistently inspired and supported me. I wish to especially thank my parents, who never hesitated to help me living my dream, for their love, encouragement and confidence in me. Last but not least I want to thank my sweetheart, Dennis Luzius, who helped me through all the challenges I had to face and always succeeded to make me smile. Thank you so much for standing by my side and enriching my life. v TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES ............................................................................................................... viii LIST OF FIGURES ................................................................................................................ x 1 Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 1 2 Literature Review ............................................................................................................ 5 2.1 Historical Backgroung ............................................................................................. 5 2.2 Substrate ................................................................................................................. 19 2.2.1 Bicomponent Fibers .......................................................................................... 20 2.2.2 Needlepunching ................................................................................................ 27 2.2.3 Spunbond .......................................................................................................... 33 2.2.4 Hydroentangling ............................................................................................... 35 2.2.5 Fiber Splitting/Fibrillation ................................................................................ 36 2.2.6 Fiber Washing ................................................................................................... 37 2.2.7 Nonwoven Substrates based on Staple Fibers .................................................. 38 2.2.8 Nonwoven Substrates based on Continuous Fibers .......................................... 62 2.3 Coating .................................................................................................................... 69 2.3.1 Impregnation ..................................................................................................... 69 2.3.2 Direct coating .................................................................................................... 70 2.3.3 Transfer
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