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On the Reflectance of Uniform Slopes for Normally Incident Interfacial Solitary Waves
1156 JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY VOLUME 37 On the Reflectance of Uniform Slopes for Normally Incident Interfacial Solitary Waves DANIEL BOURGAULT Department of Physics and Physical Oceanography, Memorial University, St. John’s, Newfoundland, Canada DANIEL E. KELLEY Department of Oceanography, Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada (Manuscript received 29 March 2005, in final form 2 September 2006) ABSTRACT The collision of interfacial solitary waves with sloping boundaries may provide an important energy source for mixing in coastal waters. Collision energetics have been studied in the laboratory for the idealized case of normal incidence upon uniform slopes. Before these results can be recast into an ocean parameter- ization, contradictory laboratory findings must be addressed, as must the possibility of a bias owing to laboratory sidewall effects. As a first step, the authors have revisited the laboratory results in the context of numerical simulations performed with a nonhydrostatic laterally averaged model. It is shown that the simulations and the laboratory measurements match closely, but only for simulations that incorporate sidewall friction. More laboratory measurements are called for, but in the meantime the numerical simu- lations done without sidewall friction suggest a tentative parameterization of the reflectance of interfacial solitary waves upon impact with uniform slopes. 1. Introduction experiments addressed the idealized case of normally incident ISWs on uniform shoaling slopes in an other- Diverse observational case studies suggest that the wise motionless fluid with two-layer stratification. The breaking of high-frequency interfacial solitary waves results of these experiments showed that the fraction of (ISWs) on sloping boundaries may be an important ISW energy that gets reflected back to the source after generator of vertical mixing in coastal waters (e.g., impinging the sloping boundary depends on the ratio of MacIntyre et al. -
A Near-Shore Linear Wave Model with the Mixed Finite Volume and Finite Difference Unstructured Mesh Method
fluids Article A Near-Shore Linear Wave Model with the Mixed Finite Volume and Finite Difference Unstructured Mesh Method Yong G. Lai 1,* and Han Sang Kim 2 1 Technical Service Center, U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, Denver, CO 80225, USA 2 Bay-Delta Office, California Department of Water Resources, Sacramento, CA 95814, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-303-445-2560 Received: 5 October 2020; Accepted: 1 November 2020; Published: 5 November 2020 Abstract: The near-shore and estuary environment is characterized by complex natural processes. A prominent feature is the wind-generated waves, which transfer energy and lead to various phenomena not observed where the hydrodynamics is dictated only by currents. Over the past several decades, numerical models have been developed to predict the wave and current state and their interactions. Most models, however, have relied on the two-model approach in which the wave model is developed independently of the current model and the two are coupled together through a separate steering module. In this study, a new wave model is developed and embedded in an existing two-dimensional (2D) depth-integrated current model, SRH-2D. The work leads to a new wave–current model based on the one-model approach. The physical processes of the new wave model are based on the latest third-generation formulation in which the spectral wave action balance equation is solved so that the spectrum shape is not pre-imposed and the non-linear effects are not parameterized. New contributions of the present study lie primarily in the numerical method adopted, which include: (a) a new operator-splitting method that allows an implicit solution of the wave action equation in the geographical space; (b) mixed finite volume and finite difference method; (c) unstructured polygonal mesh in the geographical space; and (d) a single mesh for both the wave and current models that paves the way for the use of the one-model approach. -
Swash Zone Based Reflection During Energetic Wave Conditions at a Dissipative Beach: Toward a Wave-By-Wave Approach
SWASH ZONE BASED REFLECTION DURING ENERGETIC WAVE CONDITIONS AT A DISSIPATIVE BEACH: TOWARD A WAVE-BY-WAVE APPROACH Rafael Almar1, Patricio Catalán2, Raimundo Ibaceta2, Chris Blenkinsopp3, Rodrigo Cienfuegos4, Mauricio Villagrán4,5, Juan Carlos Aguilera4 and Bruno Castelle6 This paper presents a 11-day experiment conducted at the high-energy dissipative beach of Mataquito, Maule Region, Chile. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged 1-4 m, with persistent long period up to 18 s and oblique incidence. Wave energy reflection value ranged from 1 to 4 %, and results show that it is highly linked to both incoming wave characteristics and swash zone beach slope, and is well correlated to a swash-slope based Iribarren number. The swash acting as a low-pass filter in the reflection mechanism, our results show that the cut-off period is better determined by swash slope rather than incoming wave's period. A new low cost technique for observing high-frequency swash hydro-morphodynamics is introduced and validated using LIDAR measurements. A good agreement is found. Separation of uprush and backswash components using the Radon Transform illustrates the low-frequency filtering effect. These results show the key role played by swash mechanism in the reflection rate and frequency selection. More investigation is needed to describe the reflection process and its link with shoreface evolution, moving toward a swash-by-swash approach. Keywords: Mataquito, Maule Region, Chile; beach reflection; incoming and outgoing wave separation; swash measurements technique; video; Lidar INTRODUCTION There is a potential for substantial wave reflection at the coast, depending on hydro- and morphodynamic conditions. -
Chapter 216 Extreme Water Levels, Wave Runup And
CHAPTER 216 EXTREME WATER LEVELS, WAVE RUNUP AND COASTAL EROSION P. Ruggiero1 , P.D. Komar2, W.G. McDougal1 and R.A. Beach2 ABSTRACT A probabilistic model has been developed to analyze the susceptibilities of coastal properties to wave attack. Using an empirical model for wave runup, long term data of measured tides and waves are combined with beach morphology characteristics to determine the frequency of occurrence of sea cliff and dune erosion along the Oregon coast. Extreme runup statistics have been characterized for the high energy dissipative conditions common in Oregon, and have been found to depend simply on the deep-water significant wave height. Utilizing this relationship, an extreme-value probability distribution has been constructed for a 15 year total water elevation time series, and recurrence intervals of potential erosion events are calculated. The model has been applied to several sites along the Oregon coast, and the results compare well with observations of erosional impacts. INTRODUCTION Much of the Oregon coast is characterized by wide, dissipative, sandy beaches, which are backed by either large sea cliffs or sand dunes. This dynamic coast typically experiences a very intense winter wave climate, and there have been many documented cases of dramatic, yet episodic, sea cliff and dune erosion (Komar and Shih, 1993). A typical response of property owners following such erosion events is to build large coastal protection structures. Often these structures are built after a single erosion event, which is followed by a long period with no significant wave attack. From a coastal management perspective, it is of interest to be able to predict the expected frequency and intensity of such erosion events to determine if a coastal structure is an appropriate response. -
I. Wind-Driven Coastal Dynamics II. Estuarine Processes
I. Wind-driven Coastal Dynamics Emily Shroyer, Oregon State University II. Estuarine Processes Andrew Lucas, Scripps Institution of Oceanography Variability in the Ocean Sea Surface Temperature from NASA’s Aqua Satellite (AMSR-E) 10000 km 100 km 1000 km 100 km www.visibleearth.nasa.Gov Variability in the Ocean Sea Surface Temperature (MODIS) <10 km 50 km 500 km Variability in the Ocean Sea Surface Temperature (Field Infrared Imagery) 150 m 150 m ~30 m Relevant spatial scales range many orders of magnitude from ~10000 km to submeter and smaller Plant DischarGe, Ocean ImaginG LanGmuir and Internal Waves, NRL > 1000 yrs ©Dudley Chelton < 1 sec < 1 mm > 10000 km What does a physical oceanographer want to know in order to understand ocean processes? From Merriam-Webster Fluid (noun) : a substance (as a liquid or gas) tending to flow or conform to the outline of its container need to describe both the mass and volume when dealing with fluids Enterà density (ρ) = mass per unit volume = M/V Salinity, Temperature, & Pressure Surface Salinity: Precipitation & Evaporation JPL/NASA Where precipitation exceeds evaporation and river input is low, salinity is increased and vice versa. Note: coastal variations are not evident on this coarse scale map. Surface Temperature- Net warming at low latitudes and cooling at high latitudes. à Need Transport Sea Surface Temperature from NASA’s Aqua Satellite (AMSR-E) www.visibleearth.nasa.Gov Perpetual Ocean hWp://svs.Gsfc.nasa.Gov/cGi-bin/details.cGi?aid=3827 Es_manG the Circulaon and Climate of the Ocean- Dimitris Menemenlis What happens when the wind blows on Coastal Circulaon the surface of the ocean??? 1. -
The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. -
Wind-Induced Waves and Currents in a Nearshore Zone
CHAPTER 260 Wind-Induced Waves and Currents in a Nearshore Zone Nobuhiro Matsunaga1, Misao Hashida2 and Hiroshi Kawakami3 Abstract Characteristics of waves and currents induced when a strong wind blows shoreward in a nearshore zone have been investigated experimentally. The drag coefficient of wavy surface has been related to the ratio u*a/cP, where u*a is the air friction velocity on the water surface and cP the phase velocity of the predominant wind waves. Though the relation between the frequencies of the predominant waves and fetch is very similar to that for deep water, the fetch-relation of the wave energy is a little complicated because of the wave shoaling and the wave breaking. The dependence of the energy spectra on the frequency /changes from /-5 to/"3 in the high frequency region with increase of the wind velocity. A strong onshore drift current forms along a thin layer near the water surface and the compensating offshore current is induced under this layer. As the wind velocity increases, the offshore current velocity increases and becomes much larger than the wave-induced mass transport velocity which is calculated from Longuet- Higgins' theoretical solution. 1. Introduction When a nearshore zone is under swell weather conditions, the 1 Associate Professor, Department of Earth System Science and Technology, Kyushu University, Kasuga 816, Japan. 2 Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, Nippon Bunri University, Oita 870-03, Japan. 3 Graduate student, Department of Earth System Science and Technology, Kyushu University, Kasuga 816, Japan. 3363 3364 COASTAL ENGINEERING 1996 wind Fig.l Sketch of sediment transport process in a nearshore zone under a storm. -
1D Laboratory Study on Wave-Induced Setup Over A
1 LES Modeling of Tsunami-like Solitary Wave Processes 2 over Fringing Reefs 3 4 Yu Yao1, 4, Tiancheng He1, Zhengzhi Deng2*, Long Chen1, 3, Huiqun Guo1 5 6 1 School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology, 7 Changsha, Hunan 410114, China. 8 2 Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan, Zhejiang 316021, China. 9 3 Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of 10 Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China. 11 4Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defence of Ministry of Education, 12 Nanjing, Jiangsu 210098, China 13 14 15 16 * Corresponding author: Zhengzhi Deng 17 E-mail: [email protected] 18 Tel: +86 15068188376 19 1 20 ABSTRACT 21 Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to 22 inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave 23 transformation and runup over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management 24 of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in 25 modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional 26 (3D) numerical wave tank based on the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) tool 27 OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier-Stokes equations for two-phase 28 incompressible flow are solved, using the Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method for 29 turbulence closure and the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. 30 The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with 31 various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine 32 the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, 33 reef-crest width) on the solitary wave runup. -
Internal Wave Breaking Dynamics and Associated Mixing in the Coastal
Internal Wave Breaking Dynamics and Associated Mixing in the Coastal Ocean Eiji Masunaga, Ibaraki University, Hitachi, Japan Robert S Arthur, Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory, Livermore, CA, United States Oliver B Fringer, Stanford University, Stanford, CA, United States © 2019 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. Introduction 548 Internal Tide Breaking 548 Classification of Internal Bores 549 Canonical bores 549 Noncanonical bores 550 Intermittency of Internal Tide Breaking 550 Internal Solitary Wave Breaking 551 Breaker Classifications 551 Mixing and Mixing Efficiency 552 A note on the internal Iribarren number 552 Mass and Sediment Transport Driven by Internal Wave Breaking 552 Summary and Outlook 553 Acknowledgments 553 References 554 Further Reading 554 Introduction When internal waves interact with shallow slopes in the coastal ocean, they become highly nonlinear and break, accompanied by turbulent mixing. Internal wave breaking processes are similar to those of surface waves breaking on a beach (Fig. 1). However, despite their ubiquity in the coastal ocean, the complex, transient nature of breaking internal wave events makes them difficult to predict and observe. The small spatial and temporal scales associated with breaking internal waves and the resulting stratified turbulence only add to this greater difficulty. Recently developed observational approaches, including high-resolution towed instruments, mooring systems, and autonomous underwater vehicles, have revealed new insights into internal wave breaking processes, while improved laboratory and numerical modeling techniques have also been used to study their dynamics in more detail. In this article, the results of recent observational, laboratory, and numerical modeling studies of internal wave breaking are presented with a focus on turbulent mixing in shallow coastal regions. -
Toe Structures of Rubble Mound Breakwaters
Toe structures of rubble mound breakwaters Stability in depth limited conditions Master of Science Thesis R.E. Ebbens February 2009 Delft University of Technology Delta Marine Consultants Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Department Coastal Engineering Section Hydraulic Engineering Toe structures of rubble mound breakwaters Stability in depth limited conditions List of trademarks in this report: - DMC is a registered tradename of BAM Infraconsult bv, the Netherlands - Xbloc is a registered trademark of Delta Marine Consultants, the Netherlands - Xbase is a registered trademark of Delta Marine Consultants, the Netherlands The use of trademarks in any publication of Delft University of Technology does not imply any endorsement or disapproval of this product by the University. II Preface This thesis is the final report of a research project to obtain the degree of master of Science in the field of Coastal Engineering at Delft University of Technology. This report is an overview of the results of the investigation to toe stability of rubble mound breakwaters in depth limited conditions . This study, existing of literature and scale model experiments, is performed in collaboration with the department of coastal engineering of DMC (Delta Marine Consults). DMC is the trade name of BAM Infraconsult bv. The experiments are executed in the laboratory facilities of DMC in Utrecht. I would like to thank DMC for the facilities and support to accomplish this study. During this period a graduation committee, consisting of the following persons, supervised this thesis, for which I am grateful: Prof.dr.ir. M.J.F. Stive Delft University of Technology Prof.dr.ir. -
1DH Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Transformation Over Fringing Reefs
Ocean Engineering 47 (2012) 30–42 Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect Ocean Engineering journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/oceaneng 1DH Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over fringing reefs Yu Yao a, Zhenhua Huang a,b,n, Stephen G. Monismith c, Edmond Y.M. Lo a a School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Nanyang Technological University, 50 Nanyang Avenue, Singapore 639798, Singapore b Earth Observatory of Singapore (EOS), Nanyang Technological University, 50 Nanyang Avenue, Singapore 639798, Singapore c Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Stanford University, 473 Via Ortega, Stanford, CA 94305-4020, USA article info abstract Article history: To better understand wave transformation process and the associated hydrodynamic characteristics Received 14 May 2011 over fringing coral reefs, we present a numerical study, which is based on one-dimensional (1D) fully Accepted 12 March 2012 nonlinear Boussinesq equations, of the wave-induced setups/setdowns and wave height changes over Editor-in-Chief: A.I. Incecik various fringing reef profiles. An empirical eddy viscosity model is adopted to account for wave breaking and a shock-capturing finite volume (FV)-based solver is employed to ensure the computa- Keywords: tional accuracy and stability for steep reef faces and shallow reef flats. The numerical results are Wave-induced setup compared with a series of published laboratory experiments. Our results show that with an appropriate Wave-induced setdown treatment of boundary conditions and a fine-tuned eddy viscosity model, the full nonlinear Boussinesq Boussinesq equations model can give satisfactory predictions of the wave height as well as the mean water level over various Coral reef hydrodynamics reef profiles with different reef-flat submergences and reef-crest configurations under both mono- Mean water level Wave breaking chromatic and spectral waves. -
Waves and Sediment Transport in the Nearshore Zone - R.G.D
COASTAL ZONES AND ESTUARIES – Waves and Sediment Transport in the Nearshore Zone - R.G.D. Davidson-Arnott, B. Greenwood WAVES AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE R.G.D. Davidson-Arnott Department of Geography, University of Guelph, Canada B. Greenwood Department of Geography, University of Toronto, Canada Keywords: wave shoaling, wave breaking, surf zone, currents, sediment transport Contents 1. Introduction 2. Definition of the nearshore zone 3. Wave shoaling 4. The surf zone 4.1. Wave breaking 4.2. Surf zone circulation 5. Sediment transport 5.1. Shore-normal transport 5.2. Longshore transport 6. Conclusions Glossary Bibliography Biographical Sketches Summary The nearshore zone extends from the low tide line out to a water depth where wave motion ceases to affect the sea floor. As waves travel from the outer limits of the nearshore zone towards the shore they are increasingly affected by the bed through the process of wave shoaling and eventually wave breaking. In turn, as water depth decreases wave motion and sediment transport at the bed increases. In addition to the orbital motion associated with the waves, wave breaking generates strong unidirectional currents UNESCOwithin the surf zone close to the – beach EOLSS and this is responsible for the transport of sediment both on-offshore and alongshore. SAMPLE CHAPTERS 1. Introduction The nearshore zone extends from the limit of the beach exposed at low tides seaward to a water depth at which wave action during storms ceases to appreciably affect the bottom. On steeply sloping coasts the nearshore zone may be less than 100 m wide and on some gently sloping coasts it may extend offshore for more than 5 km - however, on many coasts the nearshore zone is 0.5-2.5 km in width and extends into water depths >40m.