Southern Region

Important Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally). The authors of this guidebook do not recognise any liablity for injuries caused to climbers who use this information as a means to their own safety.

Please be respectful of the landowners. Climbing is a privilege so please treat it as such. Please do not block oil wells or other machinery when parking. Please be aware of all turnarounds and do not block them with your vehicle. Please respect all red tagged projects as well as any routes labeled as projects in this guide. If you want to toprope, please do so through the use of quickdraws and not the links of chain anchors.

Changes The information presented in this guide has been exported from an online guidebook located at www.redriverclimbing.com. If you find any information that is incorrect and wish to update it, please locate the route in the online guidebook and post a comment. The webmaster will be sure that the change you post, if accurate, will be present in the next version of this guide.

Thanks If it weren't for everyone at www.redriverclimbing.com, this guide would not be possible. Special thanks to Jack Schmidt and Kathryn Lybarger who put in many hours with their amazing programming skills, John Bronaugh for allowing the use of his guidebook Red River Climbs, 2nd Edition, as a main source of information for many of the routes, and also to Sandy Davies, Michelle Artsay, Yasmeen Fowler, Bart Bledsoe, Thomas Donalek and Paul McKenzie for special contributions to the guide. Most of all, thanks to all of the people who spend their time putting up beautiful lines on the sandstone cliffs of Kentucky. Thanks to them, the best sandstone climbing in the country is right here.

-Ray Ellington, www.redriverclimbing.com

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 1

Bob Marley Crag Southern Region

1. Dogleg *** 5.12a Sport Look up at the rock from the end of the approach trail. This route ascends the orange face. Climb through a series of long moves then angle right (the left variation doesn't have a finish) and up to anchors. First Ascent:Unknown 10 bolts, 90 feet, Rap from anchors, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

2. Beeper ** 5.11d Sport About 20 feet right of Dogleg is a dihedral. Begin on the large boulders near its base. Grab the arete and follow it into the thin crack. First Ascent:Keith Moll 8 bolts, 70 feet, Rap from anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Tony's Happy Christmas Crack ** 5.8 Trad Fifty feet right from the previous route is an obvious dihedral with a handcrack. Climb the crack to a set of anchors, or continue steeply to some higher shuts. First Ascent:Jack Hume, Tony Tramontin, Steve McFarland, Gene Hume, David Hume 0 bolts, 80 feet, Rap from anchors or higher cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Mas Choss ** 5.11a Sport About 15 feet right of Tony's Happy Christmas Crack is this slab route with striated holds. Climb some tough moves to a small roof. Move left at the roof and reach up to a large flake. Continue up the face to the anchors. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 7 bolts, 80 feet, Ring anchors, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

5. Route 22 *** 5.11d Sport Locate the second sport route about 30 feet right of the dihedral. Climb the small edges and ledges up and right to a reasonable stance. Angle a little left to a small overhang, then ska over some thin holds to the anchors. First Ascent:Dave Hume 7 bolts, 80 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

6. Fifty Words for Pump *** 5.14c Sport Hike around a corner from the previous routes to a rockhouse. Spot this line just to the left of the dihedral. Open Project. First Ascent:Unknown 11 bolts, 90 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 3 Bob Marley Crag Southern Region

7. Ultra-perm *** 5.13c Sport Begin on the vertical face 10 feet right of the dihedral mentioned above. Climb up to and over a pocketed overhang. First Ascent:Chris Martin 9 bolts, 90 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

8. Horn ** 5.11d Sport Venture 30 feet around the next corner from the previous routes into the deeper recesses of the ampitheater. Spot a pocketed wall capped by an overhang with several sport routes. This one is the first one encountered. Climb a very steep wall to some anchors just over the lip. First Ascent:Chris Martin 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

9. Flush ** 5.11d Sport Move 10 more feet to the right to begin this climb. First Ascent:Chris Martin 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

10. Velvet *** 5.11d Sport Ten more feet right is another pocketed lip problem. First Ascent:Chris Martin 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

11. Tacit ** 5.12a Sport The next route is five feet right of the previous route and has a similar description. Begin near a crack above a boulder. First Ascent:Porter Jarrard 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

12. Reticent *** 5.12d Sport Five feet right of the boulder is the start to another pocketed line. First Ascent:Porter Jarrard 6 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

13. Blood Bath *** 5.12d Sport Step 10 feet right from the previous climb to some small boulders marking the beginning of this climb. First Ascent:Chris Martin 6 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

14. Where's the Beef? *** 5.12d Sport Look 5 more feet to the right to the final climb on this section of wall. Climb through steep pockets and crimps to a horizontal roof. Pull the roof making use of sharp pockets, then crank over the lip to a jug. Continue up easier face to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Martin 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 4 Bob Marley Crag Southern Region

15. Tikka Chance ** 5.9+ Trad Hike right about 150 feet from last route listed on the main wall. You'll drop down into the lowest part of the valley and up the other side a bit until you see the first reasonable crack. Climb the crack and face to the lip of the wall. First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Jason Burton 0 bolts, 90 feet, Ring anchors, Hands/fingers, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

16. Mailman 5.13a Sport This route is located on the arete just left of Dogleg. Not sure about the name or grade. Anyone know? First Ascent:Unknown 0 bolts, 65 feet, Ring anchors, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 5 Drive-By Crag Southern Region

Directions Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498 and follow for 1.2 miles to Bald Fork Road. Take a sharp right onto Bald Fork Road and follow it as it curves left toward a house. Do not turn right at the first fork. After 0.3 miles the road turns to gravel and heads down a steep hill. At the bottom of the hill you will pass the parking area on the right for The Motherlode. Remain on the road for a total of 1.4 miles (0.6 miles past the Motherlode parking) until you see a wooden sign indicating the RRGCC parking area on the left. Park here and walk back out to the road. Turn left onto Bald Fork Road and follow it for about 100 feet to the next dirt road on the right. Hike up the dirt road until it intersects with another road and turn right. Hike this road uphill for about 7 minutes (do not turn left on the next road) until it curves around to the right. About 100 feet after the road curves to the right look for a small wooden ladder on the left which leads up a short hill and ends directly beneath Check Your Grip and Whipper Snapper.

1. Breakfast Burrito *** 5.10d Sport This route is located about 40 feet left from the end of the approach trail. Look for a plated face with an alcove about 60 feet up. Climb up to the alcove then move out left and continue up to the anchors. First Ascent:Gene Hume 8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

1a. Make a Wish ** 5.10c Sport 20 feet right of the start of Breakfast Burrito. Boulder up to good holds, move right around a flake/overhang, then surmount a ledge. Climb pockets and small edges, then jugs to the top of a point of rock. Decent warm-up route for the area First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Christina Bronaugh 0 bolts, 75 feet, Ring anchors, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Mostly stays dry

2. Fire and Brimstone ** 5.10d Sport This bolted line is located just right of Breakfast Burrito and begins in a dihedral. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 10 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

3. Extra Backup ** 5.12a Sport This face climb is located about 15 feet left of Fire and Brimstone on orange rock. Climb small crimps past semi-runout bolts to the anchors. First Ascent:Dave Hume 6 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Hakuna Matata ** 5.12a Sport This route is the next face climb just left of Extra Backup. Boulder up to a small ledge then climb crimps and fingertip locks to the anchors. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 9 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Slut Men * 5.11d Sport This route is located about 10 feet left of Hatuna Makata under an overhang. First Ascent:Danita Whelan 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 6 Drive-By Crag Southern Region

5a. Slick and the 9mm 5.10b Sport About 25 feet to the left Of Slut Men, climb over a bulge and up to the anchors in the middle of the face. From the anchors you can traverse right to a left facing dihedral and trad climb (5.9) to a higher set of anchors First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 0 bolts, 0 feet, Rap from anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

6. Whipper Snapper *** 5.12b Sport About 40 feet right from the end of the approach trail is an overhanging face with many bolted lines. This route is the first line encountered and begins just right of a crack. Project still at the time of the last guidebook. Rating may be different. First Ascent:Unknown 9 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

7. Check Your Grip *** 5.12a Sport This route lies about 10 feet right of Whipper Snapper. Mantle the start and climb up to a ledge beneath an overhanging face. Pull a boulder problem then continue up the face to some anchors. First Ascent:Neal Strickland 7 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Sidepulls, Stays dry in: Downpour

8. Big Sinkin' Breakdown *** 5.11c Sport This route begins 10 feet right of Check Your Grip. Crank out a difficult boulder problem to a shelf then continue up the overhanging face. Runout to anchors. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 7 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

9. Primus Noctum *** 5.12a Sport This route begins 10 feet right of Big Sinkin' Breakdown and is marked by an obvious poorly protected slab section near the beginning of the route. First Ascent:Porter Jarrard 8 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

10. Spirit Fingers *** 5.11c Sport This bolted line is located about 5 feet right of Primus Noctum. Scramble up to a large ledge to start. First Ascent:Craig Smith 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

11. Whip-Stocking *** 5.11a Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Spirit Fingers around a blunt corner. There is a large alcove near the top and to the left of the line. Climb the plated face to some anchors just above a roof. First Ascent:Porter Jarrard 8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Overhanging jug haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 7 Drive-By Crag Southern Region

12. Yadda Yadda Yadda *** 5.11b Sport This route ascends the arete located about 15 feet right of Whipstocking. Climb interesting and reachy moves to the anchors. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

13. Head and Shoulders ** 5.11d Sport This route ascends the bolted flake system just right of Yadda Yadda Yadda and on the adjacent wall. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

13a. Maizy Mae *** 5.13a Sport This abandoned project has become a bolted boulder problem. Climb the obvious overhanging 30 foot high block located about 25 feet right of Head and Shoulders. This information may be inaccurate. First Ascent:Unknown 3 bolts, 30 feet, Unknown, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

14. Dirty Smelly Hippie ** 5.13b Sport This route begins by climbing the right arete of the 30 foot block to the right of Head and Shoulders and continues up the overhanging face above. I changed the rating on this to 5.13b because someone told me that's what it is. This may or may not be true. I'll have to ask some more people. First Ascent:Dave Hume 10 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

15. Tika Monster *** 5.13b Sport This route ascends the overhanging face a few feet right of Dirty Smelly Hippie and just right of a dihedral. Someone told me this route is much harder than 5.12d and may still be a project. First Ascent:Unknown 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

16. The Nothing *** 5.14a Sport This route begins by climbing a faint crack system about 15 feet right of the previous route. First Ascent:Dave Hume 10 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

17. The Business * 5.11d Sport This route is located about 15 feet right of The Nothing. Climb pockets to the left side of a hueco then continue through more pockets to the anchors. First Ascent:Eric Lowe 8 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

18. Mud on the Rug ** 5.6 Trad This route ascends a crack in a dihedral several hundred feet right of The Business. First Ascent:Barry Little, Kerry Gorder 0 bolts, 100 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 8 Left Field Southern Region

Directions Park in the designated Sore Heel Hollow parking area and locate the standard trail. Follow the trail uphill for a few minutes until you see the second trail on your left and a sign indicating the Left Field climbing area.

1. Lowered Expectations * 5.6 Sport This is the first route encountered as the approach trail meets the wall and is located just right of a blunt arete. Climb through large holds, angling right to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 4 bolts, 45 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Apoplectic Chick from Missouri * 5.9 Sport Step five feet right from the previous line to this route. Climb jugs to a good rest then finish on rails to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 4 bolts, 45 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Autograft ** 5.11a Sport Walk right about 80 feet past a wide crack to a vertical wall with lots of bulges. This route is located 40 feet right of a wide crack and is the first route from the left on this wall. Begin by climbing to a ledge 15 feet up, passing one bolt along the way. Climb the slab to a perplexing bulge near the top. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 8 bolts, 60 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Hop Scotch 5.10c Sport Begin on the same ledge as the previous line but move right on the ledge five feet from the previous line. Fight the pump past sustained edge climbing to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 7 bolts, 60 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 9 Mt. Olive Rock Southern Region

Directions This crag is located beyond the turnoff from KY 498 to The Motherlode. To find it, drive a full 2 miles down KY 498 past the turnoff until it ends at KY 52. Turn right and drive 2.8 miles to a small pulloff on the right between some guardrails. Walk down the road 150 feet and locate a dramatic, left-facing dihedral on the cliff to your left, which is "South Side of the Sky".

1. South Side of the Sky *** 5.11a Trad Climb the obvious, thin left-facing dihedral anchors under the massive roof at the top. First Ascent:Martin Hackworth, Ron Martin 0 bolts, 60 feet, Rap anchors, Fingers, Stays dry in: Downpour

2. South Central ** 5.11a Sport Climb the line of obvious pockets 20 feet around the corner from South Side of the Sky to some chain anchors. First Ascent:Chris Snyder 6 bolts, 50 feet, Rap anchors, Pockets, Stays dry in: Light rain

3. Sprout's Climb * 5.10c Trad This route ascends the dihedral 50 feet left of South Side of the Sky. Climb the dihedral then continue out the roof. Pull around the lip then continue up to the anchors above Palm Friction. First Ascent:Tom Fyffe, Matt Flach 0 bolts, 50 feet, Rap anchors, Hands, Stays dry in: Light rain

4. Palm Friction ** 5.10a Sport Climb the face 15 feet left of Sprout's Climb to the anchors. Rappel from the anchors on Sprout's Climb. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder, Barry Brolley 6 bolts, 65 feet, Rap anchors, Slab, Stays dry in: Light rain

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 10 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

Directions Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve, and at the crest of the hill, take a sharp right on Bald Rock Road (gravel road). There is a sign for a church here. The road will immediately fork left near a trailer. Take this left fork. Follow the gravel road 1.65 miles to a set of 3 entranceways on the right (about 0.1 miles past a road leading uphill to the right just past Bob Marley Crag). Take the second of the 3 entranceways. This is the last road you can take off to the right. If you were to pass this road you will come to a dead-end/turnaround in about 200 yards. Turn up the road and stay on it until you come to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and head up a steep hill. At the top of the hill, the road will curve sharply to the left. Stay on the road, passing a pond on your left, and continue up another steep hill. The road to Oil Crack Rock is directly to the right at the top of the hill. Most people back in here to make it easier to exit. Travel down this road for about 1/4 mile until you reach an oil well near a small parking area.

Parking is a bit tight here so be sure to leave as much room as possible for others. Be sure not to block any wells when you park.

1. Checkmate ** 5.11c Sport From the parking area, walk back down the road a few feet to the trailhead on your right. Checkmate is the bolted line with a couple of low roofs. Climb up to the first roof about 10 feet up, pull it and continue through another one. Move up the pumpy face on crimps to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 9 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Blood Rush ** 5.10d Trad This crack system starts with a low roof just right of Checkmate. Pull through the roof, wander up the face, and crank through another roof towards the top. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Fingers, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Sidekick *** 5.11a Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Checkmate. Begin by climbing a short easy section with one bolt to a ledge. Continue up the face just right of an arete. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 9 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Blue Man Group ** 5.10b Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Sidekick and begins on the same ledge. Walk up the short hill to the right to access the ledge. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Paradiddle ** 5.11c Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Blue Man Group and begins on the right side of the same ledge. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 11 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

6. Alice Through the Windshield Glass *** 5.12c Sport This is the next bolted route encountered around the corner from the previous lines and just right of a wide dihedral. Some people like to hang a long draw on the second last bolt (crux) to avoid hitting the ledge behind them during a fall. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 7 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

7. Skin Flute *** 5.12a Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Alice Through The Windshield Glass and ascends a short orange face. Start on a small boulder. This route was originally rated 5.11d but many holds have broken since then. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 7 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

7a. Crazy Game Of Poker ** 5.11d Sport This is the bolted line 15 feet right of Skin Flute. Begin just left of the first bolt. Boulder up the technical start to an easier finish.

Variation start (5.10): Begin by climbing the first 15 feet of Blue Plate Special. Traverse left once you reach the ledge to regain the route. First Ascent:Sam Cervantes, Therese Condit, Chris Wenz, Keith Long 4 bolts, 40 feet, Chain Anchor, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

8. Blue Plate Special ** 5.7 Sport This bolted line ascends the plated face just right of Skin Flute. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Jugs, Stays dry in: Unknown

9. Tool Pusher *** 5.11a Sport This bolted line ascends the slab to the right of Blue Plate Special. Begin with a tough mantle onto a small ledge about five feet up. Climb the slab to a large half-moon feature. Move up the feature and step right to the anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 5 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown

10. Persian Gulf *** 5.7 Sport This route ascends the obvious squeeze chimney to the right of Toolpusher. Climb the chimney frontwards or backwards and clip the bolts to your left. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Chimney, Stays dry in: Unknown

11. Hey Crude *** 5.9 Sport This bolted line ascends the face a few feet right of a wide chimney (Persian Gulf). First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 12 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

12. Blankety Blank *** 5.12a Sport Walk about 100 feet right from Hey Crude to a slabby wall with a black streak. Climb the blank slab through a couple of low cruxes to a large ledge. Climb up and left from the ledge past another crux to some anchors. Bolted by John Bronaugh First Ascent:Dave Hume 9 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

13. Vandalism ** 5.11a Sport This bolted route is located about 50 feet right of Blankety Blank. Climb through a couple of low ledges and continue up the slab to a height dependent crux near the top. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 7 bolts, 0 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

14. Oil's Well That Ends Well ** 5.12a Mixed Locate a dihedral to the right of Blankety Blank with one bolt towards the beginning. Climb past the bolt through a very cool boulder problem then continue up the easier hand crack with scarce gear placements to some anchors right where you want them. First Ascent:Blake 1 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

15. Doughbelly ** 5.11c Sport Walk right from Blankety Blank a few hundred feet until you come to a bolted line directly behind an uprooted tree. Climb the slabby face to some suprisingly perfect (hmmmm....) pockets. Continue through the surprisingly perfect (hmmmm....) pockets to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

16. Greased Lightning *** 5.11a Mixed Walk right from Doughbelly past an overhanging section of the wall to a clean left-facing dihedral with large boulders at its base. Stick clip the first bolt and tram past the goo to gain the crack. Stem up the crack then step left onto the face for the final crimpy, bolt protected section. First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Eric Lowe 3 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

17. A Clean Well Lighted Face *** 5.14a Sport This is the bolted line about 30 feet right of Greased Lightning that ascends the striking, slightly overhanging face. First Ascent:David Hume 7 bolts, 70 feet, Rap anchors, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

18. Skeletor *** 5.14c Sport This is the next bolted route to the right of A Clean Well Lighted Face. Climb the blank, orange face to some anchors. Open project. Approximate rating. First Ascent:Unknown 6 bolts, 70 feet, Unknown, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 13 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

19. The Shaft ** 5.10d Trad This route ascends the chimney system to the right of Skeletor. There is a large boulder at its base. Climb a squeeze chimney to a handcrack. Lower from anchors or continue to the top. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder, John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 130 feet, Cold shuts, Hands, Stays dry in: Unknown

20. Killbilly *** 5.12c Sport Around the corner to the right of The Shaft is this bolted route. Climb a slab to a big ledge then continue up the overhanging wall. First Ascent:Neal Strickland 7 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

21. Sweet Velvet Surrender ** 5.12c Sport This bolted line begins 15 feet right of Killbilly and ascends a slightly overhanging pocketed face. Tony Reynaldo's project in 1998. He or someone else may have sent it by now. First Ascent:Unknown 8 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

22. Uncle Jedd's Revenge *** 5.12c Sport This route ascends the steep face 10 feet right of Sweet Velvet Surrender. The first bolt is shared with the route next to it, John Henry. Runout to the anchors. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 9 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

23. John Henry *** 5.12c Sport This route begins on the same bolt as Uncle Jedd's Revenge but heads right up the face. First Ascent:Chris Martin 9 bolts, 95 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

24. Lung Cookie ** 5.12c Sport This route begins by climbing an overhanging crack about 10 feet right of John Henry. Follow the crack until it ends then continue up through pockets and horizontals. First Ascent:Steven Lillard 10 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

25. Sonny Bono ** 5.11c Sport This route begins 25 feet right of Snow Crash. Begin by climbing through hand sized huecos then continue up the steep face with sidepulls and pockets. Watch out for the tree. First Ascent:Kelly Gorder 9 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Sidepulls, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 14 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

26. Toll Head ** 5.12c Sport This route begins just right of a wet area and 15 feet right of Sonny Bono. Begin by climbing a slab then continue up through steep jugs. Traverse left to the anchors. Eric Lowe's project in 1998. He or someone else may have sent it by now. First Ascent:Unknown 8 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Overhanging jug haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

27. Commitment Hour *** 5.12c Sport This is the next bolted line right of Toll Head and begins near a large flat boulder. Eric Lowe's project in 1998. He or someone else may have sent it by now. First Ascent:Unknown 10 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

28. Feminine Hygiene * 5.12c Sport This route begins just left of a crack system about 30 feet right of Commitment Hour. First Ascent:Steven Lillard 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

29. Dipto Dotto ** 5.12a Sport This is the next bolted route just left of Checkmate. John Bronaugh's project as of March, 2003. First Ascent:Unknown 9 bolts, 80 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

30. Oil Crack Route ** 5.13b Sport This is the next bolted route just left of Dipto Dotto and to the right of a large, arching crack. Climb the overhanging face making use of small pockets. First Ascent:David Hume 5 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

31. Face To Face ** 5.11b Sport This route ascends the face opposite of the wall which Dipto Dotto is on and just left of a large, arching crack. Begin just right of an arete and climb up towards a squeeze chimney of sorts. At this point, turn around and climb the other side of the face to some anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Slopey, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

32. Cartel ** 5.10d Sport This route ascends the slab just left of and around the corner from Face To Face. Climb slab moves up to a lieback on a rounded flake. Continue to the top. First Ascent:Unknown 10 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 15 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

33. Yellow Sodomizer ** 5.9 Trad This route ascends the crack system just left of The Cartel. Rap from the anchors on The Cartel. First Ascent:Richard Burnett 0 bolts, 60 feet, Rap anchors, Offwidth, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

34. The Embargo * 5.9+ Sport This route ascends the slab about 15 feet left of Yellow Sodomizer. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

35. Roughneck * 5.11a Trad This route is to the left and around the corner from The Cartel. Look for an obvious, thin fingercrack. Climb the crack with help from crimps on the face. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 0 bolts, 50 feet, Rap anchors, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

36. Dip Stick ** 5.11a Sport This bolted line lies just to the left of Roughneck. Climb easy moves to the high first bolt then continue up through long reaches and nice crimps to the anchors. First Ascent:Unknown 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

37. Scooby Doo ** 5.10a Sport Walk down the road from the parking area a couple hundred feet until you see a small trail branch off towards the wall. This route and the route to the left of it lie fairly close to the road. Climb a boulder problem start then continue up the slabby face to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

38. Scooby Snack ** 5.9+ Sport This route lies just to the left of Scooby Doo and is similar but slightly easier. Begin by climbing a flake and crack system then continue up the slabby face through a small roof to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

39. Shaggy * 5.10a Sport Walk just around the corner to the left of Scooby Snack to locate this bolted line. Climb rotten rock to a small roof. Pull the roof then continue up shaggy rock to the top. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 8 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

40. Golliwog's Cakewalk ** 5.9 Trad Walk left from Shaggy about 30 feet and locate a dihedral that begins on a ledge. Scramble up to the ledge, climb the dihedral angling left, then take the middle crack up to the top exiting via a slot. First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Christina Bronaugh 0 bolts, 90 feet, Rap from tree or walkoff, Hands/fingers, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 16 Oil Crack Rock - CLOSED Southern Region

41. Intermezzo ** 5.11a Sport Walk 20 feet left from Golliwog's Cakewalk to a line of bolts that goes over several bulges. Excellent reaches using iron oxide rails. Pumpy. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 90 feet, Ring anchors, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

42. Images ** 5.11d Trad Locate a huge overhang with a large boulder at its base 30 feet left of Intermezzo. Climb the crack up and right, use a huge pancake flake at the roof to reach the lip. Superb and wild body position First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 60 feet, Ring anchors, Roof/offwidth/hands/fingers, Stays dry in: Usually stays dry

43. Hooky Pals * 5.8 Sport On the left margin of the Images overhang is this sport route that begins on pockets. Climb up to a ledge, then continue up relatively easy holds over bulges. A lot of the upper holds are suspect. Might be an okay route after everything breaks First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams, Jason Burton 0 bolts, 80 feet, Rap anchors, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 17 Purgatory Southern Region

Directions Follow directions to reach Shady Grove but continue along the trail for 10 minutes past that area crossing three foot bridges along the way. There are small wooden signs marking the path also.

1. Believer *** 5.11b Sport First route encountered when you arrive at Purgatory. To the left of Special Boy. Fun climbing up a lightly overhanging wall. First Ascent:Tony Reynaldo 6 bolts, 60 feet, Unknown, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

1. (Error in DB - this is not a route)

First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, , , Stays dry in:

2. Special Boy ** 5.11c Sport Move right from Believer to the next bolted line. Begin with a thin start which leads to better holds and fun climbing with a nice hueco rest midway. Keep it together for the long run to the anchors. First Ascent:Kenny Barker 7 bolts, 75 feet, Unknown, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Fallen Angel *** 5.11c Trad Locate a beautiful crack splitting the face right of the previous lines. Crank through sporty moves to reach an expanding right-facing dihedral near the top which offers a bit of relief. First Ascent:Kenny Barker 0 bolts, 70 feet, Rap anchors, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Un-Bolted Project Sport

First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Dracula '04 *** 5.13b Sport Climb the next bolted line right of the splitter crack. First Ascent:Kenny Barker 6 bolts, 0 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

6. Lucifer Sport To the right of Dracula '04. Open project that ascends a blank face. First Ascent: 9 bolts, 0 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 18 Purgatory Southern Region

7. The Castle Has Fallen *** 5.13b Sport Climb the first 3 bolts of Lucifer and head straight up the seam. First Ascent:Unknown 0 bolts, 0 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

8. Paradise Lost *** 5.13b Sport This line is destined to become a classic. Move right from The Castle Has Fallen to take on the striking overhanging arete. First Ascent:Kenny Barker 6 bolts, 65 feet, Rap anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

9. Paradise Regained Sport This line is an extension of the arete Paradise Lost. Currently a closed project. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 19 Shady Grove Southern Region

Directions Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve take a sharp right on an unmarked gravel road. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles straight through an intersection, past some houses with dogs, down a steep hill, alongside a small cliff on your left, to a clearing at the bottom. Park on your right in the Motherlode parking area or continue by turning right on the first gravel road .3 miles past the Motherlode parking area. There is a “Sore Heel Parking,” sign located at the turn off pointing the way. Follow the gravel road up the hill past a row of large bright blue storage tanks, make a sharp right-hand turn (.2 mile after turn off), follow the main gravel road for another ½ mile before following the road down a short hill to the new parking area at the bottom of the hill on the right.

Look for new trailhead signs pointing to the climbing areas along a (freshly cleared) dirt road leading up a hill from the parking area The first route encountered is Citizen's Arete.

1. Citizen's Arete *** 5.11b Sport This route begins just right of the obvious arete on the left side of the wall. It is the first route encountered on the wall. Climb the face until you run out of holds then make a big move left to the arete. Make another big move then ride the arete to the anchors. First Ascent: 6 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Light rain

2. Girls Gone Wild...WOO! *** 5.10d Sport Step five feet right from Citizen's Arete to locate this route. Grab a shelf and pull up and through a bulge. Continue up the face staying just right of a flake. First Ascent: 6 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets and Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

3. Crucify Me ** 5.11c Sport Step 10 feet right from Girls Gone Wild and look for a high first bolt. Climb up the steep face making use of jugs and hidden pockets along the way. Tackle the crux toward the top and finish off on jugs to the anchors. First Ascent: 6 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Overhanging jug haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

4. Who Knows? ** 5.12a Sport This route is located 20 feet right of Crucify Me. Climb steep rock for two bolts to gain a large ledge. Continue up past a fat flake to another ledge then up steeper rock to the anchors. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

5. Which is Which? ** 5.11c Sport Step 10 feet right of Who Knows. Crank through a steep start for a few bolts to a hand ledge. Continue up a more vertical face to the overhanging headwall. Conquer the headwall and clip the chains. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Downpour

6. Who is Who? ** 5.11d Sport Start 5 feet right of Which is Which? on the same steep section of the wall. Crank through 4 bolts of pocket pulling to gain a vertical section. Climb past the vertical section then deal with steepening rock to the anchors. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 20 Shady Grove Southern Region

7. Coming out Party ** 5.11d Sport Walk 25 feet right of Who is Who? just past an overhanging crack in a dihedral. Boulder out extremely steep rock to gain a large ledge. Climb the overhanging face past a few pods along the way. First Ascent: 9 bolts, 75 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Light rain

8. Far From God *** 5.12b Sport Power out the start of Coming Out Party to gain a ledge. Then veer right and climb the sustained overhanging face to anchors. First Ascent: 8 bolts, 75 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Downpour

9. Unknown - Project Sport Walk 30 feet right from Far From God to locate this route. Boulder out a steep, pocketed start to gain a ledge. Continue up the sustained overhanging face to the anchors. First Ascent: 10 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Downpour

10. Unknown - Project Sport Just right of the previous route is a hueco 25 feet up. This route begins just left of the hueco and meets up with a water groove toward the top. First Ascent: 8 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Downpour

11. Unknown - Project Sport

First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 21 Solar Collector and Gold Coast Southern Region

Directions From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11. You will pass Roadside and Torrent on the way. Turn right on Fixer Rd and make your first left. Take that road for 3.5 miles (making sure not to turn left where the road seems to want to take you) until you see a black oil tank on your left with a face painted on it. Make a right at the oil tank and then take the second right. Drive down a hill and park just to the right of a steep road that branches left. The main parking area is located here near the kiosk for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve. From the parking area, walk a few feet past the kiosk to locate the trail marker. Follow the trail down and across a small bridge then along a dirt road for a few hundred yards until it heads off into the woods. Stay on the trail until it branches off to the right. You will see signs pointing the direction to the Solar Collector and The Darkside. Taking a right and heading uphill will take you to the Solar Collector. If you continue straight on the trail, it will take you to The Darkside.

1. Super Pinch ** 5.10d Sport This is the first bolted route encountered when the trail meets the wall. Climb the slightly overhanging wall making use of pinches and slopers to the anchors. First Ascent:Rob McFall 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Slopey, Stays dry in: Light rain

2. Mona Lisa Overdrive ** 5.11b Sport This is the second bolted route from the left on the main wall. Boulder a tough start to a sit down rest in a hueco. Creep out of the hueco onto the face and continue to the anchors. First Ascent:Rob McFall 6 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

3. Green Horn ** 5.11a Sport This is the third bolted route from the left on the main wall. Climb up to a large hueco then negotiate a way out. Continue up the face to some anchors. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 5 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

4. Chickenboy ** 5.11b Sport This is the fourth bolted line from the left on the main wall. Step a few feet right of Greenhorns and begin climbing. First Ascent:Neal Strickland 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

5. Psychopathy ** 5.12c Sport This is the fifth bolted route from the left on the main wall. Look for a bolted line with a blank section about midway up. Climb the line and try clipping the bolt at the crux. If you can't clip it, skip it and run to the next one. First Ascent:Jason McClennan 7 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Light rain

6. Ethics Police *** 5.11d Sport This is the sixth bolted route from the left on the main wall. Climb up to a large hueco. Cross out of the hueco then hang on for a few moves to get to easier ground. Angle slightly left to the anchors. First Ascent:Rob McFall 7 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 22 Solar Collector and Gold Coast Southern Region

7. Buddha Hole *** 5.12a Sport This is the seventh bolted route from the left on the main wall. Boulder up into a hueco and relax. Move out of the hueco and onto the face. Make a couple of bouldery moves then enjoy jugs to the anchors. First Ascent:Neal Strickland 8 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Light rain

8. Herd Mentality *** 5.12c Sport This is the crimpfest just right of Buddha Hole. Boulder up to a sit down rest in a large hueco then head out left and up through crimps to the anchors. First Ascent:Rob McFall 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

9. Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus ** 5.12c Sport This route lies just right of Herd Mentality and just before the last bolted line on the wall. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Light rain

10. Supafly ** 5.12b Sport This is the last bolted route before the dihedral on the main wall. Begin on a large boulder and make a big move to the hueco. Shift left and tackle the sustained face to the last bolt. Take a rest then make a tough move to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Martin 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

11. Yakuza ** 5.9 Trad This is the obvious overhanging left-facing dihedral at the rightmost end of the main wall just past the bolted lines. First Ascent:Barry Brolley 0 bolts, 90 feet, Rap from tree, Hands, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

12. Gold Coast Route 1 ** 5.12+ Sport Walk around the corner and beneath an overhang with a crack from the previous routes until you come to a beautiful orange and brown streaked wall. On the left side of the wall there is a large fat flake about halfway up. To the left of the flake, on the short face, are two bolted routes. This route is the first from the left. Climb up past some loose rock to a shelf 20 feet up to begin. Clip a fixed chain the climb out and over a short overhang to gain the main face. Continue up the slightly overhanging face to anchors just before a sloping ledge. First Ascent:Gus Alexandropolus 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

13. Gold Coast Route 2 * 5.12a Sport This route lies just right of Gold Coast Route 1 and is the second from the left on the wall. It also starts with a sort of roof. Not sure about the accuracy of this information. First Ascent:Gus Alexandropolus 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 23 Solar Collector and Gold Coast Southern Region

14. Black Gold *** 5.13c Sport Move 30 feet right of the previous lines to a taller section of the wall. Climb up past shelves to a large ledge 15 feet up. Climb over loose rock then head left for 3 bolts to a dark brown streak. Continue straight up the blank face to anchors in a hueco just before the top. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 8 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

15. God's Own Stone *** 5.14a Sport Start the same as Black Gold but angle right after the first two bolts. Power up the golden face to the anchors just before a large horizontal. First Ascent:Ben Cassel 7 bolts, 65 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

16. Gold Coast Project 1 Sport Just right of God's Own Stone are two open projects. This is the first one on the left and climbs up a gold face which becomes surrounded by two black streaks halfway up the wall. Open Project First Ascent:Unknown 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

17. Gold Coast Project 2 Sport This is the next route right of Gold Coast Project 1. Open Project. First Ascent: 7 bolts, 65 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

18. 100 Ounces of Gold *** 5.13c Sport Power endurance climbing at its best. Move about 30 feet right from the previous projects to the next line which travels straight up a gold streak between two black streaks. Climb up to a large ledge to begin. First Ascent:Ben Cassel 6 bolts, 65 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

19. Golden Boy 5.13b Sport This route tackles the next line of bolts about 15 feet right of 100 Ounces of Gold. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 6 bolts, 65 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

20. True Love *** 5.13d Sport Step just right of Golden Boy and climb up the left margin of a black streak. First Ascent:Dave Hume 6 bolts, 45 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 24 Solar Collector and Gold Coast Southern Region

21. No Fluff *** 5.11d Sport To the right of the main Gold Coast wall is a platform beneath three short and steep routes. This is the first of those three routes. Angle left up to a large sloping shelf. Grab a horn and mantel up to the steeper face above then run to the anchors. First Ascent:Rob McFall 5 bolts, 45 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

22. Brilliant Orange *** 5.13a Sport This is the next route just right of No Fluff. Belay from the platform. Climb through sustained moves to an exciting dyno going for the anchors. First Ascent:Kenny Barker, Rob McFall 8 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

23. Mr. Roarke 5.12c Sport This is the last route on the gold streaked overhanging wall. Belay from the platform as with the previous two routes. Climb up a sustained face until you reach the last bolt. Lower from the last bolt for a grade of 5.12c or continue up to the anchors to send an open project. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 7 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

24. Gecko Circus ** 5.13b Sport Walk around a blunt corner 100 feet right from the previous lines until the ground flattens. This is the first vertical bolted route you see which lies about 6 feet left of the detached pinnacle which Calming Curtis climbs. Open Project First Ascent:Unknown 7 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchor, Vertical, crimpy, bouldery, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

25. Calming Curtis ** 5.9- Trad Walk past the Gold Coast sport routes to a pair of nice looking cracks ascending a small pilar and sharing the same anchors. This route ascends the crack on the left and gets a little wide towards the top. First Ascent:Josh Thurston, Jared Hancock 0 bolts, 35 feet, Rap anchors, Fists, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

26. Liken the Lichen * 5.9+ Trad This is crack just right of Calming Curtis and shares the same anchors. Climb a slabby start to a thin crack which widens toward the top. First Ascent:Josh Thurston, Jared Hancock 0 bolts, 35 feet, Rap anchors, Fingers, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

27. Smooty Nut *** 5.10b Trad This route ascends the striking, thin, left-facing dihedral just 15 feet right of Liken the Lichen. First Ascent:Blake Bowling, Jason Tackett 0 bolts, 60 feet, Rap anchors, Fingers, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 25 Solar Collector and Gold Coast Southern Region

27a. Red Shift ** 5.11+ Sport Walk about 20 feet right from Spraydog to locate this slab route which begins on top of a boulder. Climb the less than vertical face which gets steeper toward the top and end beneath a block. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 0 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown

27b. Hand Drills and Hand Grenades *** 5.10d Trad The line ascends the finger crack just right of Red Shift past two bolts on the face directly above the anchors on that route. First Ascent:Blake Bowling 2 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

27c. No Name ** 5.12c Sport Walk right from the previous lines about 75 feet and past a dirty dihedral to a downward sloping portion of the trail. Spot a bolted line furthest up o the slant and climb it. First Ascent:Dave Hume 5 bolts, 55 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

28. Amelia's Birthday *** 5.11+ Sport This line climbs the face just right of the previous route. Start either on the ground or from a small ledge and climb the pocketed face past 4 bolts to a 15 foot runout before the anchors. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 0 bolts, 60 feet, Ring anchors, Pockets, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

28a. Highway Turtle ** 5.11+ Trad This route is located 10 feet right of Amelia's Birthday and ascends an overhanging pocketed face from right to left. First Ascent:Nate Heide 4 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets, Stays dry in: Light rain

29. Riptide Ride ** 5.10c Trad Walk about 300 yards right from Highway Turtle until the trail heads down the hill and then back up to meet the cliffline again. Eventually you will see this thin dihedral which has a unique hueco about 20 feet up. Tricky gear. First Ascent:Nate Heide, Matt Raymond 0 bolts, 55 feet, Unknown, Fingers, Stays dry in: Unknown

30. Lucky Duck Soup ** 5.5 Sport Walk right from Riptide Ride until you come to a slab wall with a bolted line. This route ascends the slab just left of a crack. First Ascent:Scott Hammon and Stephanie Carson 5 bolts, 0 feet, Rap from anchors., Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

31. The Perfect Pint 5.4 Trad Climb the splitter crack just right of the bolted line Duck Soup. The route begins about 15 feet left of a dihedral. First Ascent:Tony Panozzo, Jared Hancock, Curtis Williams 0 bolts, 0 feet, Rap from anchors., Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 26 Solar Collector and Gold Coast Southern Region

32. Chester Fried Chicken * 5.4 Trad Arching dihedral 8 feet right of previous route. First Ascent:Scott Hammon, Stephanie Carson 0 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

33. Rebar *** 5.11a Trad Just right of Chester Fried Chicken you'll see two obvious cracks splitting the face. This route ascends the left of the two cracks. Begin by climbing Broken Chicken Wing then step left when the crack splits into two. First Ascent:Josh Thurston, Scott Lappin 0 bolts, 60 feet, Rap anchors, Fingers, Stays dry in: Downpour

34. Broken Chicken Wing *** 5.9+ Trad Classic. This route ascends the left angling hand crack just right of Rebar. Climb hands and fingers to a nice rest then tackle the last few feet for an exposed clipping stance. First Ascent:Josh Thurston, Scott Lappin 0 bolts, 60 feet, Rap anchors, Fingers, Stays dry in: Light rain

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 27 The Arena - CLOSED Southern Region

Directions Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve, and at the crest of the hill, take a sharp right on Bald Rock Road (gravel road). There is a sign for a church here. The road will immediately fork left near a trailer. Take this left fork. Follow the gravel road 1.65 miles to a set of 3 entranceways on the right (about 0.1 miles past a road leading uphill to the right just past Bob Marley Crag). Take the second of the 3 entranceways. This is the last road you can take off to the right. If you were to pass this road you will come to a dead-end/turnaround in about 200 yards. Turn up the road and stay on it until you come to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and head up a steep hill. At the top of the hill, the road will curve sharply to the left. Stay on the road, passing a pond on your left, and continue up another steep hill. Continue past the road to Oil Crack Rock and stay on the same road. Locate a pulloff on your left which marks the first parking area. It is best to park here if you're headed for the 5.10 wall (routes #1-#4). If you're headed for the 5.11 wall (routes #16-#19) you may want to continue on the road a bit. Eventually you will come to a sharp left turn and a small steep hill. At the top of this hill and to the right is the second parking area for The Arena.

1. Big in Japan ** 5.8 Sport From the first parking area, walk up the road about 100 feet until you see a trail on your right. Follow the trail until you come to an obvious pocketed wall with many routes on it. This is the first route from the right. Climb large ledges to the more pocketed face. Negotiate a bulge then continue up easier ground to the anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 5 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Downpour

2. Stairway to Freebird ** 5.10b Sport This route is the next route on the wall and begins about 15 feet left of Big In Japan. Climb the face through pockets and crimps to the anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Crimps, Stays dry in: Downpour

3. Rebel Yell ** 5.10c Sport Step a few feet left of Stairway To Freebird to begin this route. Climb up the face past some bulges then make a committing move to the anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

4. Redneck Ways ** 5.10a Sport This route begins about 10 feet left of Rebel Yell. This is the leftmost line. Climb the face past some pocketed bulges then crank over a ledge to reach the anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

5. Chocolate Waterfall *** 5.10a Sport Walk about 100 feet left from the previous routes to locate this obvious chocolate colored slab. There is a wide crack in a dihedral to the left. Climb past long reaches to good holds then enjoy the nice topout. First Ascent:Jason Burton, John Bronaugh 6 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 28 The Arena - CLOSED Southern Region

6. Hat Trick * 5.9 Sport Walk around the corner from Chocolate Waterfall to find this route which begins just left of a wide crack with a tree. First Ascent: 5 bolts, 45 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Light rain

6a. Apple Pie and Chevrolet 5.5 Trad 25 feet right of Exacta find a crack system that begins in a rockhouse. P1 Apple Pie ** Sweeeet. Boulder up the start to a nice offwidth until the crack is choked with bushes. Forget pitch 2 and descend.

P2 Chevrolet R Traverse right along the slopey ledge to the snake in the only crack with good pro then climb up on lichen covered slopers with pro in rotten eyebrows, reminiscent of Looking glass in a bad dream. First Ascent:Jesse New, Yasmeen Fowler 0 bolts, 100 feet, Rap station above Split Decision, , Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

7. Exacta * 5.8 Sport Walk left from Hat Trick about 100 feet past some low overhangs to locate this route. The route climbs an obvious slab just left of an arete. Most people climb to the right of the bolts on the other side of the arete. First Ascent:Scott Hammon 5 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

8. Edge of Your Seat *** 5.10a Sport Classic. Just left of Exacta is this remarkable line which ascends a brown streaked section of the wall. First Ascent:Terry Kindred, Blake Bowling 5 bolts, 55 feet, Chain Anchor, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

9. Split Decision *** 5.9 Trad Just left of Edge Of Your Seat is this beautiful handcrack splitting the face. Climb the handcrack to a pod, negotiate some moves, then continue to the anchors. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 55 feet, Chain Anchor, Hands, Stays dry in: Light rain

9a. Baseball and Hotdogs * 5.8- Trad The obvious dihedral between The Main Event and Split Decision. P1 Baseball. * Chimney up to the ledge being careful not to dislodge the loose slab and belay. Dont strike out without #3 and #4 Bros

P2 Hotdogs ** Inside the chimney find a fist crack that leads to a rockhouse and pull the roof on the left to a rappel tree on the right hidden in the bushes. Don't forget the mustard and onions, be carefull of rope drag. First Ascent:Jesse New, John Henry Hardway, Sandy Davies (sm) 0 bolts, 85 feet, Rap from tree., Chimney to fists, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

10. Main Event ** 5.12a Sport Walk down a small hill a few feet left of Split Decision to locate this bolted line which begins just right of an arete. First Ascent:Flex 8 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 29 The Arena - CLOSED Southern Region

11. Plan 9 ** 5.10a Sport Head about 80 feet left of Main Event to locate this route. Begin just left of an arete in a large hueco then move up the face on slopey holds. First Ascent: 8 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

12. Karmic Disruption ** 5.11d Sport Just left of Plan 9 is this bolted line which looks about the same but is a couple of grades harder. First Ascent: 8 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Technical, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

13. Technical Foul *** 5.12b Sport Classic. Walk about 50 feet right and around the corner from Karmic Disruption to a nice looking vertical wall with a few bolted lines. This is the first route on the right encountered on the wall. Start with a tough boulder problem through small pockets to get to a jug. Continue up the technical face to a crimpy crux section up high. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 9 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Technical, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

14. Overtime ** 5.12c Sport Step left from Technical Foul 10 feet to locate this route. Climb through reachy moves on underclings and crimps to the anchors. First Ascent: 9 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchor, Technical, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

15. Sudden Death ** 5.12d Sport Step left from Overtime to locate this route. It is the first bolted line from the left on the wall. There is a dihedral to the left of it (Dihedron). First Ascent: 9 bolts, 100 feet, Chain Anchor, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

15a. Dihedron * 5.9 Trad Walk a few feet left from Sudden Death to locate this dihedral which begins behind a boulder. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 0 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchor, Hands, Stays dry in: Unknown

15b. Tip Off ** 5.12b Sport Walk left from Dihedron until you come to some wooden plank steps. As soon as you start heading down the steps, look to your right to locate this bolted line which begins in a small dihedral. Climb the dihedral until it widens, then pull a boulder problem to gain the face above. First Ascent: 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 30 The Arena - CLOSED Southern Region

16. Stage Fright ** 5.12a Sport To locate the following routes, it is possible to continue driving past the first parking area until you see a large pulloff to your right. Park in the pulloff and follow the trail, which begins with a small wooden ladder, to the obvious overhanging wall containing some of the steepest moderates in the Red.

If you're approaching from the left side of the wall near Tip Off, just walk down the stairs then back up some stairs to reach the wall.

This is the first route on the right side of the wall and is marked by a very large hueco. Climb the face to access the hueco. Hang out for awhile and figure out your plan of action. Move out of the hueco to the right then continue up easier ground to the anchors. First Ascent: 8 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

17. Dope Show ** 5.11b Sport This line is located on the same overhanging wall 30 feet left from Stage Fright. Climb a small dihedral to gain a 10 foot high ledge. Wander through the overhanging, right angling face to the anchors. First Ascent: 7 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

18. Standing Ovation *** 5.10d Sport Step 10 feet left from Dope Show to locate this route. Climb up to a 10 foot high ledge then pull pockets and jugs through an overhanging face. Find the occasional kneebar along the way. First Ascent: 6 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Overhanging jug haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

19. Opening Act *** 5.10d Sport Move 25 feet left from Standing Ovation to locate this route. Climb up to a 10 foot high ledge to begin. Climb through jugs to a 10 foot flake section. Lieback the flake then continue jug hauling to the anchors. First Ascent: 7 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Overhanging jug haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

20. Encore *** 5.11a Sport Move 10 feet left from Opening Act. Climb up through the overhanging face passing a small blocky section on the way. First Ascent: 7 bolts, 70 feet, Chain Anchor, Overhanging jug haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

21. Take a Bow ** 5.10c Sport This route is located just left of Encore and is the first route from the right on this overhanging wall. It begins near an arete. First Ascent: 5 bolts, 60 feet, Ring anchors, Crimps, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 31 The Arena - CLOSED Southern Region

22. De-Spare 5.8 Sport Walk left from the overhanging wall about 25 feet to locate this short bolted route which climbs a detached pinnacle of rock. First Ascent:Blake Bowling 0 bolts, 40 feet, , Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

23. Two Pitcher * 5.10b Sport Start 25' rt. of Mystikal. Climb a crack on the face and slot on the right to a rhodo ledge. Traverse left 15 feet to a broad ledge and belay to avoid rope drag. Head up an overhang and gain a finger to handcrack in a dihedral. Pass an offwidth slot near the top and reach some anchors after a dicey slab move First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams 0 bolts, 90 feet, , Hands, Stays dry in: Unknown

24. Mystikal ** 5.12+ Sport This is the next bolted route about 20 feet right of Tux. Climb a blank face to gain a 20 foot high ledge. Climb through plates for about 30 feet then crimp away on the wall above. open project First Ascent: 7 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchor, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

25. Seeing Red Again 5.11dR Trad Start by climbing the same flake which Mystikal starts with to gain a 20 foot high ledge. Climb the plated face from the ledge with scarce protection for about 20 feet to access the thin fingercrack visible from the parking area. Project First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, , Fingers, Stays dry in: Unknown

26. Tux 5.12+ Sport From the second parking area, locate the trail on the left that begins with a wooden ladder. Follow the trail for about 10 feet then head left at the fork towards the cliff. This route is the leftmost bolted route on the wall. Begin by climbing a flake to a good stance. Tackle the blank wall which gets a little steeper at top. open project 5.12c/d First Ascent: 8 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchor, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

27. The Audition ** 5.9 Trad Walk right from Warriorhood for about 200 feet to locate this flake. You should be directly above the parking area when you find it. Jam and layback the flake to anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred, Blake Bowling 0 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Layback, Stays dry in: Light rain

27a. Warriorhood * 5.10b Trad Walk around the corner from Coldstone for about 200 feet. This crack is tucked away back in a corner and may not be easy to see in the summer. There is a short chimney just left of it. Walk up to a ledge to begin. Climb through rotten rock for about 10 feet to access the crack. Crank through somewhat steep tight hands to a good stance then continue on jugs to the top. Scramble up to the next ledge being careful of the loose pyramid shaped block. First Ascent:Ray Ellington, Arno Ilgner, Michelle Artsay 0 bolts, 60 feet, Rap from tree, Thin hands, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 32 The Arena - CLOSED Southern Region

28. Cold Stone 5.11+ Sport Walk down and around the corner from Curtain Call to locate this route. Climb a thin face to an obvious slab section. First Ascent: 7 bolts, 0 feet, , Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

29. Curtain Call *** 5.10c Sport Step 5 feet right from Through The Turnstile to begin this bolted line. Climb an easy flake system to the thought provoking moves up high. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 7 bolts, 70 feet, Ring anchors, Technical, Stays dry in: Unknown

30. Through the Turnstile *** 5.8 Trad Walk around the corner to the right of Penalty Box to a wooden ladder. Climb the ladder to access this right-facing dihedral. Jam the start to a good stance 25 feet up. Pull out of the stance to more jamming. Move through a wide section then clip the anchors. First Ascent:Mark Jackson, Bob Metheney 0 bolts, 65 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

31. Penalty Box ** 5.6 Sport From the second parking area, head left on a trail for about 500 feet which eventually meets up with the cliff beneath an overhang with a bolted line. This route climbs up to directly beneath the overhang (Power Play). First Ascent: 6 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

32. Power Play *** 5.13a Sport This route makes up the second pitch of Penalty Box. Climb Penalty Box then belay from the anchors. Continue through a steep, orange wall making use of a blunt, left-angling feature. Project First Ascent: 4 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Downpour

33. Life's a Beech 5.7 Trad trad crack to anchors of #31 Rating is unconfirmed. First Ascent:Barry Richardson 0 bolts, 0 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

6b. All This Useless Beauty 5.10bR Trad 10 ft. Left of Hat trick. Boulder up the face and left into the crack, climb to the ledge, finish on slabs to the top. First Ascent:Scott Hammon, Travis Ricks 0 bolts, 110 feet, Rap Trees over Chocolate Waterfall, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 33 The Dark Side Southern Region

1. Grippy Green *** 5.12a Sport As you near the wall from the approach trail,head right and this slab route is the first route on the wall. Boulder up a flake for a few bolts then continue up the slab to a break. Climb steeper rock past a bolt to the anchors. First Ascent:Neal Strickland 0 bolts, 90 feet, Chain Anchor, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

2. Small Fry *** 5.9 Sport This is the 2nd route on the wall just right of fat whacker, on the short sub butress before the main Dark Side. First Ascent:Rob McFall 4 bolts, 40 feet, Chain Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

3. Techulicous *** 5.12a Sport This route is directly above small fry but approached by walking around the small butress and walking up the tree stair to the left of the main dark side. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 4 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Technical, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

4. Mama Benson ** 5.12a Sport This is the first route on the main wall, highest up the ramp to the left. Steep pump fest to a hard few moves at the top. First Ascent:Rob McFall 6 bolts, 50 feet, Chain Anchor, Overhanging Jug Haul, Stays dry in: Downpour

5. Shanghai *** 5.12d Sport This route begins on the same ramp as the previous routes and just right of Mama Benson. Power through pumpy holds to a series of long moves before the chains. First Ascent:Chris Martin 0 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

6. Big Burley *** 5.13b Sport This route lies just right of Shanghai and is the third route from the right on the ramp. Power through pumpy moves to a boulder problem finish. First Ascent:Dave Hume 0 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 34 The Dark Side Southern Region

7. American Dream *** 5.12c Sport This is the lowest route on the ramp before the main staging area. Most people clip the second bolt to start. Climb up and pull a tough move at the 2nd bolt then continue up through sustained and pumpy climbing to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Martin 0 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

8. The Return of Darth Moll *** 5.13b Sport This route shares the start of Jedi Mind Trick then angles left. It is the first route from the right that does not begin on the ramp. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 0 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

9. Jedi Mind Trick *** 5.13b Sport This is the second route to the right of where the ramp begins and shares the first bolt of The Return of Darth Moll. Boulder up to a mono dyno then continue up easier ground to the anchors. First Ascent:Dave Hume 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

10. The Force *** 5.13a Sport This route begins a few feet right of Jedi Mind Trick and climbs through enduring moves to a more difficult finish. First Ascent:Chris Martin 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

11. Mind Meld *** 5.12d Sport This route begins just right of The Force. Boulder up through spock fingered pockets, make a difficult third clip, then continue climbing. Hang on before the anchors. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

12. Elephant Man *** 5.13b Sport Step a few feet right from Mind Meld to locate this beast. Start on slopey holds then crank hard boulder problems for the first five bolts. Relax, then hang on for the anchors. First Ascent:Rob McFall 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

13. Tuskan Raider *** 5.12d Sport Start on the same slopey holds as Elephant Man but traverse right on heel hooks to a good rest. Take a breather then fire up to a difficult boulder problem right beneath a large hueco. Ponder ethics, then continue to the chains. First Ascent:Rob McFall 0 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

14. Straight Outta Campton ** 5.13a Sport Begin by climbing Tuskan Raider then move right out of the large hueco. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 35 The Dark Side Southern Region

15. Swingline *** 5.13d Sport 13a approach to very hard boulder problem First Ascent:Tony Burlier 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

16. Non starter 5.13b Sport This is the route furthest on the right. A0 to the first bolt then crank through to the anchors. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 36 The Far Side Southern Region

Directions Follow directions to Solar Collector and park in the same area. If you are facing the RRGCC kiosk, The Far Side is directly uphill to your left. Avoid bushwhacking up the hill by walking back in the direction you drove in and head up the dirt road to your right. Follow the dirt road as it winds up the hill to the cliff then walk right until you reach an obvious notch in the rock formed by two closely spaced walls. The first route listed is on the left wall and ascends the striking arete.

1. Gunsight Arete *** 5.12c Sport This route ascends the striking and featureless arete on the wall forming the left side of the notch. Pull over a small overhang to reach up to the bald arete. Continue up the arete until the bolts force you left onto the face. Move past a few troublesome bulges on the face to reach the anchors. First Ascent:Unknown 4 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Subject to Change ** 5.10c Sport Walk about 100 feet right from Gunsight Arete but do not hike down to the road. Remain in the middle of the hill to reach a short section of the left side of the right wall forming the notch. This route ascends the short face via small crimps and fingery underclings. First Ascent:Jack Hume 4 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Give me my Name ** 5.10c Sport Step 20 feet right to the next line which begins behind a large tree. Climb past a crimpy start then continue up the face on slopey ribs and the occasional good pinch. First Ascent:Jack Hume 5 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Papa Love Jugs *** 5.11d Sport Pure fun. Walk back down to the road and follow it for 100 feet to the right. Look for a north facing overhanging wall with a lightning bolt shaped feature. This route is the left most route on that section and follows a series of three huecos. Scramble up to an overhang to start. First Ascent:Nick Reuff 5 bolts, 45 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Second Nature *** 5.13c Sport This classic line ascends the lightning bolt shaped feature just right of Papa Love Jugs. Make a big move to a good right hand jug then power past the obvious crux. Continue up the feature with zig-zagging sidepulls to an exciting finish. First Ascent:David Hume 6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 37 The Far Side Southern Region

6. Quantum Narcissist *** 5.13a Sport Just right of Second Nature is another difficult and technical line angling right as it follows the margin of a slanting arete. First Ascent:David Hume 6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 38 The Gallery Southern Region

Directions Park in the Sore Heel Hollow parking area but instead of walking the initial trail which leads to Volunteer Wall, Left Field, etc. walk back up the road to the top of the final hill you drove down. At the top of the hill, take a sharp right and follow the road until it begins to head downhill 100 feet past some oil equipment on the right. Just as the road heads downhill, look for an old overgrown road on the left. Follow the road, which quickly narrows to a well defined trail, leading to the wall. The first route you encounter will be the obvious stunning right slanting crack, All That Glitters. The routes are listed from the far left side of the wall just before a drainage.

1. DaVinci’s Left Ear ** 5.10b Sport This line is the furthest bolted line on the leftmost side of the wall. Climb the face making use of inconspicuous underclings along the way. First Ascent:Blake Bowling 7 bolts, 60 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Smack Dab ** 5.11b Sport Climb the vertical face 10 feet right of the previous line. The top section is often wet. First Ascent:Blake Bowling 6 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Different Strokes ** 5.11c Sport Move 30 feet right from Smack Dab to this line which begins left of a wide chimney. Climb the enjoyable face making use of sidepulls and pinches the whole way. If you've found a horizontal hold then you must be on a different route. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Random Precision *** 5.11b Sport Move 30 feet right to locate this amazing technical line which begins 15 feet right of a wide chimney. Begin with a tough and balancey start and continue up the face making use of precise foot placements and the random good hold along the way. Keep your head together for the long runout between the 5th and 6th bolt. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 60 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Unnamed Crack 5.11+ Toprope This route ascends the obvious dihedral 15 feet right of Random Precision. First Ascent:Blake Bowling 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

6. Unnamed Crack 5.9 Toprope Climb the chimney and hand crack 100 feet right of the previous line. Lower from bolted anchors. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 39 The Gallery Southern Region

7. Gold Rush *** 5.11d Sport Walk right and around the corner from the wide crack to an overhanging and well featured face. This line is on the left side of the face and begins with a low roof and dirty start. Pull over the roof on good jugs to gain the plated face. Pull on plates and good edges to a less featured and more overhanging section near the top. Get a good shake and crank through big moves on smaller edges to a surprise ending. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 8 bolts, 70 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

8. Mosaic *** 5.12c Sport This line begins on a low ledge 20 feet right of Gold Rush. Follow a thin seam then angle right and continue up the face near the left margin of a black and orange streaked wall. First Ascent:Chris Martin 6 bolts, 60 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

9. All That Glitters *** 5.12c Mixed Walk right and around the corner from Mosaic to this striking right-angling crack which has a bolt near the beginning. Crank through the lower crux move then enjoy asthetic crack climbing to the anchors. First Ascent: 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

10. Break the Scene *** 5.12b Sport Walk right from All That Glitters past a large tree and locate this bolted left-angling dihedral. First Ascent: 8 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

11. The King Lives On... ** 5.10b Sport Walk right from Break the Scene and down a steep gully. Cross the gully and continue for a few hundred feet until you reach an iron cable extending from the top of a cliff to the ground. Step over the cable and walk about 50 feet further to a rounded arete with a bolted line on the left side. Climb through edges to start then enjoy rounded sloping holds for most of the way to the anchors. First Ascent:Gary Drexler, Jared Hancock 9 bolts, 70 feet, Ring Anchor, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

12. Johnny B. Good ** 5.11a Sport Move right from the previous line to locate this route which begins with a bulge leading to a low angled section. Tread lightly low angled rock past thin sidepulls to a severely overhanging section near the top. Crank out the roof on big jugs to a pocketed section just before the anchors. First Ascent:Gary Drexler, Tim Powers 9 bolts, 85 feet, Ring Anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 40 The Motherlode Southern Region

Locate the logging road that leads uphill from the back of the big grassy pulloff. Take the fork which immediately turns uphill to the right. If you are headed to the Madness Cave or the Undertow Wall, take the first road to the right. Move around the hill, go down and back up while staying left on the main road. As you near the crest of the second hill, turn left on a single track path which ends near Team Wilson.

If you are headed to the Buckeye Buttress, Warm-up Wall, or GMC Wall, continue uphill past the road for the Undertow Wall and veer off on the second road to the right. This track will narrow to a trail a few yards before reaching the rock near Twisted.

1. One-eyed Willy Up the Back ** 5.11c Sport Buckeye Buttress: From the end of the approach for Buckeye Buttress, walk left and scramble through some large boulders about 50 feet to the left side of an obvious, arching overhang. Climb just left of the arete, pull over the roof and climb pockets at the top. First Ascent:Keith Moll 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Trad Sucker *** 5.11b Sport This route ascends the line of bolts just right of the arete and starts on a large boulder. Be careful clipping the first bolt. First Ascent:Keith Moll 4 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, Pinches, Stays dry in: Downpour

3. The Chronic ** 5.12b Sport This route is located behind Trad Sucker on the opposing, steep wall. Climb a slab left of the arete to the headwall. Move left and continue up overhanging pockets. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

4. Twisted *** 5.11b Sport Starts similar to The Chronic but climbs the crack a little longer then moves left into pockets. First Ascent:Tim Cornette 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

5. The Reacharound ** 5.12c Sport Start the same as Twisted but move right around the arete. First Ascent:Brian McCray 5 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 41 The Motherlode Southern Region

6. Stain *** 5.12c Sport This route begins 15 feet and around the corner to the right of The Reacharound. Boulder the start to a jug for the exciting third clip then head straight up through some pockets. Head left on pockets then straight up through pockets, edges and slopers. Save some juice for the last move to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Snyder 6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

7. Buff the Wood *** 5.12b Sport This route begins just right of Stain and is marked by a short fingercrack about 15 feet up. Boulder up to the fingercrack and make the clip. Take a rest, then move right on crimps and make a deadpoint reach to a small ledge. Launch for a jug then continue up the face to a pocket problem. Make some big moves then clip the chains. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Light rain

8. Golden Touch *** 5.13b Sport This line moves up through the striking line just right of Buff the Wood. First Ascent:David Hume 5 bolts, 45 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Light rain

9. Heart Shaped Box ** 5.12c Sport This line starts about 15 feet right of Golden Touch on a ledge. Scramble up the ledge to make the first clip. Crank through on decent edges and make the move to the heart shaped box. Shake out and climb smaller crimps to the anchors. First Ascent:Brian McCray 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

10. Overdrive * 5.9 Trad This route ascends the crack system just right of Heart Shaped Box to the top. First Ascent:Grant Stephens 0 bolts, 70 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

11. Ball Scratcher ** 5.12a Sport Move right from Heart-Shaped Box about 50 feet to a rounded arete with bolts. Ride the arete to some anchors. "Ponder the consequences of whiffling the crux, then don a cup and swing for the fence." -John Bronaugh, Red River Gorge Climbs, Second Edition First Ascent:Jeff Moll 5 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown

12. Mistaken Momma * 5.10b Mixed Warm-up Wall: Follow the trail to the right from Ball Scratcher for about 120 feet. This route begins where the trail reaches a long low rock. Climb juggy plates to a large ledge using natural protection to get to where the route begins. Climb the face from the ledge past a few bolts to some anchors. First Ascent:Unknown 3 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 42 The Motherlode Southern Region

13. Crescenta ** 5.9 Trad This route ascends the obvious wide crack a few feet right of Mistaken Momma. First Ascent:Grant Stephens 0 bolts, 70 feet, Walk off, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

14. Breathe Right ** 5.11c Sport This route begins on a small ledge on the "Warmup Wall" to the right of Crescenta. Climb big holds up to a two bolt long section of technical moves then finish on jugs to the top. First Ascent:Brian McCray 7 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Technical, Stays dry in: Unknown

15. Injured Reserve *** 5.11a Sport This is the next bolted route right of Breathe Right. First Ascent:Chris Martin 5 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

16. Trust in Jesus *** 5.11b Sport The last bolted route on the Warm-up Wall. This route angles up and right through some plates right of Injured Reserve. First Ascent:Keith Moll 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

17. Purdy Mouth ** 5.12b Sport Walk right from Trust in Jesus to a route that begins just right of a chimney in a corner. Begin on a ledge and move up through edges and flakes. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 6 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

18. Take That, Katie Brown *** 5.13b Sport This reachy route moves up to the right of a brown stain on the wall 50 feet right of Purdy Mouth. First Ascent:Hugh Loeffler 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

19. Swahili Slang *** 5.12b Sport This beautiful line is located 50 feet right of Take That, Katie Brown. Look for a line of bolts moving up through a less than vertical to vertical corner and arete. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown

20. So Low ** 5.12b Sport This route begins near a hueco 5 feet off the ground and 20 feet right of Swahili Slang. First Ascent:Brian McCray 9 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 43 The Motherlode Southern Region

21. Techno Destructo ** 5.12b Sport This route begins a few feet right of So Low. First Ascent:Brian McCray 10 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

22. Thanatopsis *** 5.14b Sport GMC Wall: Move right from Techno Destructo about 100 feet and around some ledges to a sandy ledge. This route is the first encountered on an obvious blank face with a few routes. First Ascent:Dave Hume 6 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Light rain

23. Cut Throat *** 5.13b Sport This route moves up through crimps on steep rock a few feet right of Thanatopsis. Begin by grabbing a jug about six feet up. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour

24. 8 Ball *** 5.12d Sport This route begins below a right-facing dihedral 10 feet right of Cut Throat. Start by grabbing a somewhat slopey hold about 6 feet up. Crank up to a ledge then move left to a flake. Climb the flake for a few moves then power your way through the next few bolts to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Snyder 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown

25. Snooker *** 5.13a Sport This is the next bolted line 8 feet right of 8 Ball. Begin with a bouldery start to a ledge. Mantel the ledge then climb slanting crimps to a pocketed section. Make a desperate move left to a jug beneath the roof. Get a shake and climb small crimps on the headwall to the anchors. 5.13a concensus with new finish First Ascent:Dave Hume 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Usually stays dry

26. Hot For Teacher ** 5.12c Sport This is the bolted line just right of Snooker and beneath the right edge of a huge hueco 40 feet up. First Ascent:Chris Snyder 7 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

27. White Man's Overbite ** 5.13d Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Hot For Teacher. Using cheater stones for the start is not unheard of. Boulder out a steep section and up to a mantel. Continue up the overhanging wall on crimps and slopers. First Ascent:Dave Hume 9 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 44 The Motherlode Southern Region

27a. White Man's Shuffle *** 5.13d Sport This route shares the first 6 bolts with White Man's Overbite. Begin by climbing White Man's Overbite then move right. A bit more slopey than White Man's Overbite. Rating changed to 13d as per FA. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 11 bolts, 0 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Mostly stays dry

28. Cosmic Sausage * 5.13a Sport This bolted line begins 75 right of White Man's Overbite near the right end of a large overhang. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 11 bolts, 100 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

28a. Transworld Depravity *** 5.14a Sport Transworld Depravity starts from the ground about 15 feet to the left of BOHICA, on the far left side of the Madness cave. It is pre-equipped with permanent draws except on the dogging bolts. There is a long draw on the first bolt to avoid rope drag and to keep the belayer from swinging off the belay stance when the leader falls, but climbers should stick clip a normal draw for the opening moves to keep from hitting the ground if something breaks. Though the route is roughly 110 feet long, there is no problem getting down from the anchor with a 70 meter rope. It is about 12c for the first 60 feet up to a good rest, and then there is a bouldery move to some sustained hard climbing, up to another tough move. After that it is about 13a to the top, but pretty good rests. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 14 bolts, 110 feet, Rap anchors - 70 m rope required, , Stays dry in: Unknown

29. BOHICA *** 5.13b Sport This is the second bolted route located in the Madness Cave just right of Transworld Depravity. Tram up to the first bolt to begin. Variation, Bill Ramsey (Last of the Bohicans 5.13d): Climb past the original anchors a couple of bolts to the next set. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 13 bolts, 100 feet, Cold shuts, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

30. Flour Power *** 5.13b Sport This route begins by climbing through a roof 8 feet right of BOHICA. First Ascent:Chris Martin 14 bolts, 100 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

31. Omaha Beach *** 5.13d Sport Classic. This is the next bolted line a few feet right of Flour Power. Climb up to the left side of an alcove. First Ascent:Bill Ramsey 13 bolts, 130 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

32. The Madness *** 5.13c Sport This bolted line is located 25 feet right of Ice Cream Man. Aid up to the first bolt then move through a low roof to an alcove. First Ascent:Brian Toy 13 bolts, 120 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 45 The Motherlode Southern Region

33. Fourty Ounces of Justice *** 5.13a Sport This line begins about 15 feet right of The Madness near a small tree. First Ascent:Porter Jarrard 14 bolts, 110 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

34. The Sauce ** 5.12b Sport This is the first route located on the shorter wall 60 feet right of Forty Ounces of Justice. First Ascent:Chris Martin 6 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

35. Leave It To Beavis *** 5.12d Sport This is the next bolted line located 15 feet right of The Sauce. Climb throug the hueco and continue through pockets to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Martin 8 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

36. Tuna Town *** 5.12d Sport This route begins near the right side of the hueco mentioned in Leave It to Beavis. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 10 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

37. The Flux Capacitor *** 5.12d Sport This route begins by climbing a right-diagnoling flake a few feet right of Tuna Town. First Ascent:Chris Martin 10 bolts, 95 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

38. Harvest *** 5.12d Sport This route ascends the next line of bolts about 10 feet right of The Flux Capacitor. Begin with a balancey move on a sloping shelf at its base. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 11 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

39. Hoofmaker *** 5.13a Sport This route begins by standing atop a pyramid shaped boulder 10 feet right of Harvest. First Ascent:Porter Jarrard 10 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

40. Team Wilson *** 5.12d Sport This route is located to the right of Hoofmaker and near the end of the West Side approach. First Ascent:Chris Martin 9 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

41. Resurrection *** 5.12c Sport This route begins on top of a large boulder to the right of Team Wilson. Move right through horizontals then continue up through pockets to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Martin 7 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 46 The Motherlode Southern Region

42. The High Hard One ** 5.12d Sport This is the next route about 10 feet right of Resurrection. Begin just right of an 8-foot high shelf. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

43. Crime Time *** 5.12d Sport This route begins about 5 feet right of The High Hard One. Climb the face to the left of a faint left-facing dihedral of sorts. First Ascent:Brian McCray 7 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

44. Skin Boat *** 5.13a Sport This route starts a few feet right of Crime Time. Climb ledges for a few feet then make a move to a half-moon shaped jug. Crank through edges and small pockets to the 2nd bolt. Move up to two opposing jugs that are usually damp, shake out, then hang on as long as you can to the anchors. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 7 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

45. Convicted *** 5.13a Sport This route begins about 15 feet right of Skin Boat. Boulder the initial section to a small flake then continue up through pinches and sidepulls to the anchors. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Pinches, Stays dry in: Downpour

46. Ale-8-One ** 5.12b Sport This is the next bolted line just right of Convicted and begins to the left of a low, flat boulder. Climb a flake up to the first bolt then traverse right and make a bouldery move to gain a jug. Get a shake and traverse back slightly left to begin the business. First Ascent:Brian McCray 7 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

47. Chainsaw Massacre *** 5.12a Sport This route begins on top of the low boulder mentioned in the description of Ale-8-One and moves up and left at the beginning. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 7 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour

48. The Verdict ** 5.12b Sport This route begins on the right side of the low, flat boulder that Chainsaw Massacre begins on. Usually wet. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 47 The Motherlode Southern Region

48a. Sam Krieg Will Bolt Anything (SKWBA) *** 5.12b Sport This unpopular route begins just right of The Verdict. Not sure about the grade of number of bolts on this one. First Ascent:Sam Krieg 8 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour

49. Kick Me In the Jimmie *** 5.12a Sport This route begins slightly uphill and about 30 feet right of SKWBA. Start on top of a small boulder then move up and left to the anchors. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 7 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Pinches, Stays dry in: Downpour

50. Burlier's Bane * 5.11c Sport This route begins just right of Kick Me In The Jimmie beneath a large hueco. Climb up through pinches and sucker jugs to the anchors. First Ascent:Roxanna Brock 6 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Pinches, Stays dry in: Light rain

51. Rocket Dog ** 5.12b Sport This route begins just right of Burlier's Bane and moves up through an obvious black stain. Grab a high ledge and step up to the slopers. Climb slopey pinches for about 10 feet then make a move right to a jug. Continue up through the groove on pockets to the anchors. First Ascent:Chris Martin 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Slopey, Stays dry in: Light rain

52. The Low Easy One * 5.12b Sport Walk down some boulders about 10 feet right of Rocket Dog to begin this route. May still be marked with red hangers and unwelded cold shuts. First Ascent:Roxanna Brock 5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Light rain

53. Stella * 5.11d Sport This is the next bolted line about 10 feet right of The Low Easy One and just before an arete. Start by grabbing a low shelf and pull up into the business. Crank on gastons and pinches to the anchors. First Ascent:Roxanna Brock 6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pinches, Stays dry in: Light rain

54. Snapper ** 5.11a Sport This route begins about 30 feet to the right and around the arete near Stella. Climb the near vertical face on small holds just left of a wide dihedral. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 7 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Unknown

55. Stabbed in the Back * 5.10a Trad This route ascends the wide dihedral just right of Snapper. First Ascent:Jeff Moll 0 bolts, 80 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 48 The Motherlode Southern Region

56. Scrambled Porn * 5.12a Sport This route begins just right of Stabbed in the Back. Climb the blank face up to a hand ledge about 15 feet up. Continue up the vertical face to anchors. First Ascent:Terry Kindred 6 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Vertical, crimpy, bouldery, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 49 The Oasis Southern Region

Directions From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south on KY 11 for about 9.0 miles (1.4 miles past Torrent Falls) to the town of Zachariah, just before the Lee County line. Turn right onto the winding KY 1036 and drive 2.0 miles. Just after a fenced-in oil drilling yard, you will see Big Bend Road. Continue past Big Bend Road for 0.1 miles to Sun Oil Company parking lot. On its right side, near the road, is a very steep gravel road. Drive 0.4 miles down the road (ignoring the turnoffs) to an obvious cliff on the right with a spacious pullout.

1. Finnegan's Ladder ** 5.11b Sport On the extreme left side of the rock, past a low roof and swampy section is this diminutive route. Grab pinches and slopers as you ascend the bouldery, pumpy face. First Ascent:Mike Riegert 3 bolts, 25 feet, Unknown, Pinches and Slopers, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Buzz ** 5.11b Sport In the center section of the wall are three sport climbs. This one is on the left and requires some steep pockets and crimps to a big reach at the end. First Ascent:Neal Strickland 5 bolts, 50 feet, Fixe Anchors, Pockets and Crimps, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Hum ** 5.11a Sport A bit easier than Buzz. On the middle sport climb, scamper up a hard start to a huge wrap-around pistol grip. More jugs lead to the Fixe anchors. First Ascent:Mike Riegert 5 bolts, 50 feet, Fixe Anchors, Jugs, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. Paddy O'Keefe's Walking Shoes *** 5.11d Sport On the right side of the center face and left of a mossy crack system is a deceivingly steep face. Use bullet hole pockets and tracking for the feet to boulder the initial section, then finish on a final, steeper section. First Ascent:Mike Riegert, Neal Strickland 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Manzanita *** 5.12b Sport On the far right side of the cliff is this longer, steep climb with a mellow ending. First Ascent:Mike Riegert 9 bolts, 85 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 50 The Playground Southern Region

Directions Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498 and follow for 1.2 miles to Bald Fork Road. Take a sharp right onto Bald Fork Road and follow it as it curves left toward a house. Do not turn right at the first fork. After 0.3 miles the road turns to gravel and heads down a steep hill to a clearing at the bottom (0.8 miles from the beginning of Bald Fork Road). Park on your right in the Motherlode parking area or continue by turning right on the first gravel road .3 miles past the Motherlode parking area. There is a “Sore Heel Parking,” sign located at the turn off pointing the way. Follow the gravel road up the hill past a row of large bright blue storage tanks, make a sharp right-hand turn (.2 mile after turn off), follow the main gravel road for another ½ mile before following the road down a short hill to the new parking area at the bottom of the hill on the right.

Look for new trailhead signs pointing to the climbing areas along a (freshly cleared) dirt road leading up a hill from the parking area The first route encountered on this wall is Red Rover.

1. Red Rover *** 5.11b Sport This is the first route encountered where the trail meets up with the wall. Pumpy sidepulls leads to anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 0 feet, Unknown, Sidepulls, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Steal the Bacon * 5.11a Sport Right of Red Rover is another bolted line. Climb up through some bulges to the anchors. First Ascent: 6 bolts, 65 feet, Ring anchors, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Chickenhawk ** 5.10d Trad Right of Steal the Bacon is a faint, intermittent crack. Follow the crack, making liberal use of the face along the way, to the anchors. Project First Ascent:John Bronaugh 0 bolts, 45 feet, Unknown, Fingers, Stays dry in: Light rain

4. Jungle Gym ** 5.10b Sport Walk right from Steal the Bacon to locate this bolted line. Fun ending with a funky lip move. Watch the rope on the lip edge. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 5 bolts, 50 feet, Ring anchors, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Monkey Bars *** 5.10a Sport This route begins just right of Jungle Gym. Climb up through nice pockets and jugs to big moves on steep rock toward the top. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 5 bolts, 50 feet, Ring anchors, Pockets/edges, Stays dry in: Light rain

6. Capture the Flag *** 5.11b Sport This powerful route begins just right of Monkey Bars. Climb through great moves on small edges and pockets to the anchors. Great route. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 5 bolts, 50 feet, Ring anchors, edges/pockets, Stays dry in: Light rain

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 51 The Playground Southern Region

7. Crack the Whip *** 5.12a Sport This powerful crimpfest begins to the right of Capture the Flag. First Ascent:Jason Haas 5 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

8. Octopus Tag *** 5.7 Trad On the right side of the main wall is this clean chimney. Climb the chimney to anchors. First Ascent:Ryan Adams 0 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Chimney, Stays dry in: Light rain

9. Balance Beam ** 5.11b Sport Just right of Octupus Tag is an obvious slabby section of the wall. This is the first bolted line on the wall. Climb the slab to anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 7 bolts, 65 feet, Ring anchors, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown

10. Teeter Totter *** 5.11c Sport This is the second route from the left on the slab wall. Sustained and desperate edging leads to the anchors. First Ascent:John Bronaugh 8 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Crimps, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

11. Slide ** 5.9 Sport This is the second to the last route from the left on the slab wall. Start down the hill a bit from Teeter Totter. Climb knobs and edges to the anchors. First Ascent:Bob Matheny 8 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

12. Tire Swing 5.10a Sport This is the last route route from the left on the slab wall, just right of Slide. Begin on the bouldery, somewhat chossy start. Climb the slab to the anchors. First Ascent:Ryan Adams 8 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Slab, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 52 The Unlode Southern Region

Directions Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve take a sharp right on an unmarked gravel road. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles straight through an intersection, past some houses with dogs, down a steep hill, alongside a small cliff on your left, to a clearing at the bottom. Park on the right in the grassy patch or in a smaller gravel pulloff a little further. This is the Motherlode parking area. Hike back uphill on the gravel road from the parking area to locate a logging road on your left. Walk down this road for a few hundred feet until you see a small cliff on your right. This is The Unlode.

1. Undesirable * 5.11c Sport This bolted route begins just right of a large tree. Climb overhanging rock to the anchors. Short but pumpy. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 5 bolts, 45 feet, Ring anchors, Crimps, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Unworthy ** 5.11a Sport This is the next route left of Undesirable. Climb steep rock on larger holds to the anchors. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 4 bolts, 45 feet, Ring anchors, Crimps, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Unbridled ** 5.10c Sport Walk left from Unworthy for about 200 feet to a more vertical face to locate this route. First Ascent:Kellyn Gorder 6 bolts, 55 feet, Ring anchors, Crimps, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 53 Volunteer Wall Southern Region

Directions Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve take a sharp right on Bald Fork Road. Follow the gravel road 1.55 miles to the well defined Sore Heel Hollow parking area on the left. Walk left out of the parking area a few hundred feet to the marked trailhead on the right. Take the first trail on the left which is well marked with a wooden sign. Follow the trail a for about 10 minutes until you meet the wall. The trail curves around the rock and the first route you meet up with is Swap Meet. The routes are listed in order from left to right.

1. Darwin Loves You ** 5.9+ Sport This is the leftmost bolted line on the wall. Begin with a reachy start then continue up short but fun face on sidepulls to a time bomb clipping jug. First Ascent:Wes Allen 4 bolts, 50 feet, Rap anchors, Juggy plates, Stays dry in: Unknown

2. Unknown 1 - Volunteer Wall ** 5.11a Sport Move right from Darwin Loves You to the next bolted line on the wall. Climb through easy moves then crux out to pull over a bulge. Continue on incut shelves to the anchors. First Ascent:Unknown 6 bolts, 45 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

3. Unknown 2 - Volunteer Wall ** 5.11b Sport In the center of the wall pull a shallow opening roof just to the right of the previous route's start. Continue through consistent climbing on an obvious line of crimps and plates through a bulge midway. Pull over the bulge and move up on sidepulls to the anchors. First Ascent:Unknown 6 bolts, 45 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

4. The Wal-Martification of Trad ** 5.8 Trad Move right from the previous line, past a large crack in a corner, to this line which begins as a fingercrack and shares anchors with Family Tradition. First Ascent:Steve Kaufmann, Jill Messer 0 bolts, 50 feet, Bolt Anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

5. Family Tradition ** 5.10b Sport Move right from the previous crack climb a few feet to the next bolted line on the wall which begins as a crack. Begin with hard moves down low and crimp up to a sequence of awkward moves to reach rounded bulges near the top. First Ascent:Alex Yeakley 7 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

6. Nice to Know You ** 5.10b Sport Tiptoe up to the 1st bolt, pull through the bulge and launch into slab moves and crimps. High-quality technical moves above interspersed with "Thank You!" pockets keep the route interesting. First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams 5 bolts, 40 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 54 Volunteer Wall Southern Region

7. Helping Hands ** 5.10d Sport Another fun line located right of Nice to Know You. First Ascent:John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams 5 bolts, 40 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

8. Swap Meet * 5.6 Sport This short sport route is just right of Helping Hands on a corner. Climb past a dirty start then continue up the face passing a perfectly spherical hold along the way. First Ascent:Ryan Adams, Tina Bronaugh 4 bolts, 35 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

9. First Time * 5.9 Sport This is the last bolted line on the wall and begins right of Swap Meet. First Ascent:Bill Strachan 5 bolts, 50 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown

Updated: 6/1/2005 www.redriverclimbing.com 55