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Amazing Walks in Wroclaw De AMAZING WALKS IN WROCŁAW BEATA MACIEJEWSKA PHOTOGRAPHY: MIECZYSŁAW MICHALAK AMAZING WALKS IN WROCŁAW Translation: Ewa Pater-Podgórna English language consultation: Terence Clark-Ward Graphic design, typesetting, page layout, photography and map prepress: Bartosz Kwarta ul. Czerska 8/10, 00-732 Warszawa PUBLISHER: Publishing Director: Małgorzata Skowrońska Editor-in-chief: Paweł Goźliński Coordinators: Ilona Byra, Katarzyna Kubicka © copyright by Agora SA 2016 © copyright by Beata Maciejewska 2016 © copyright by Mieczysław Michalak 2016 First edition All Rights Reserved Warszawa 2016 ISBNISBN: EBOOK: 978-83-268-2375-6 978-83-268-1845-5 Print Drukarnia Perfekt This book is the mutual work of the authors and publisher. Please respect their copyrights. You can share the content for free with friends and acquaintances in person. However, do not post it on the Internet. Quote fragments without changing and always use cita- tion. Copying is permitted for personal use only. Respect the property of others and the law! Polska Izba Książki (Polish Chamber of Books) OFF TO A GOOD START AMAZING WALKS THE STORY OF ONE FRIENDSHIP Wrocław did not rise from the the monarchs, run its very own ceases to amuse me. Questions, froth of the Odra river in a day. foreign policies, kept an army, almost 400-years old are not ob- One day is also not enough to engaged in diplomatic intrigues. vious. Which bridge is located understand this city – neither is It won some and lost some, but in the uppermost part of the a week, a month, a year… I belie- always reached for heights. city? Where can one carriage ve getting to know Wrocław is an Critics see these ambitions drive over another? Where do ongoing process, a journey not as mere arrogance, opening the you have to stand to see all three only through space, but also in list of seven deadly sins. Paul market squares of the old town? time. On your way you will meet Keller, a Catholic novelist, wrote Four centuries later, the mysteri- people that are not necessarily in 1926: “Wrocław has over half ous bridge (connecting the two all good and noble, but are certa- a million citizens, of which half towers of St. Mary Magdalene’s inly not boring. a million are eminent fi gures – at church) is still open to visitors, My personal list of questions least when it comes to their level the carriages still go one over the never ends. Who was that mys- of self-esteem. This self-esteem, other (and without collision, as terious Spaniard buried in the however, is not overvalued but there is a tunnel under the mar- church of St. Adalbert? Where undervalued. The inhabitants of ket square), and the surprising is the tree with a brass rook Wrocław will allow no one to un- viewpoint is located at the in- perched on a branch? What hap- derestimate their value – with the tersection of ul. Odrzańska and pened with the remains of Hen- exception of tax collectors”. ul. Stare Jatki. ry II the Pious who died in the Is complacency really a sin? Every century adds new pe- battle of Legnica? Which street If patrician Heinrich Rybisch culiarities to the old ones. Struc- did Eugeniusz Get-Stankiewicz, wanted to exercise humility, he tures considered outrageous an outstanding graphic artist, would have never built his splen- (i.e., too expensive or too extrav- choose to embellish with paving did residence with an entrance agant, like it was in the case of the stones to create his self-portrait? portal portraying the birth of his Centennial Hall), and places fre- Just go down the street, take son; this is widely talked-about quented by beau monde, mem- a peek into the yards, climb up in Wrocław even today. If Adolf bers of the underworld (famous into church attics, scrape off the Liebich, a merchant and sugar coffee shops, elegant streets, lichen from the façade of a ten- factory owner, believed that his questionable alleys), and men of ement building to reveal what brother was a mediocre poet, vision, who – as history teaches appears to be the unknown face he would not have transformed us – infl uenced not just this city, of the city: a city that is old and Bastion Sakwowy (Saddlebag but the whole world. affl icted by history, yet still full Bastion) into a monument in his Take a stroll in Wrocław both of vitality. brother’s honour (and Wrocław with this book in hand and with- Wrocław lived through some would have lost a popular meet- out it. Be attentive and cautious. ‘interesting times’ and shares ing and entertainment spot). It is a dangerously, seductive a history not at all enviable. Its I enjoy the less travelled road, city like no other – just ask Casa- quartered coat of arms, based on but do not avoid the beaten path. nova. the royal emblems of the Jagiel- The quiz game dating back to You will not be able to resist it, lonian and Korwin dynasties, is the 17th century invented by either. not coincidental. The rich, pow- the citizens of Wrocław for their erful city saw itself as equal to own (and guests’) pleasure never BEATA MACIEJEWSKA 3 YOUR AMAZING WALKS THE MANY FACES OF ONE STREET 5 Wrocław Główny railway station ul. Piłsudskiego Piast, Europejski and Polonia hotels The NOT building Capitol Musical Theater Court buildings in ul. Podwale ON THE ROAD TO ŚWIDNICA 45 ul. Świdnicka Barbara Bar Świdnicka underpass Church of St. Dorothy Monopol Hotel Schottländer and Sachs tenement houses Corpus Christi Church Renoma department store THREE MARKET SQUARES 93 Nowy Targ Hala Targowa ul. Szewska Church of St. Mary Magdalene Rynek Plac Solny THE BEAUTY OF WEALTH 133 ul. Wita Stwosza Hatzfeldt Palace Church of St. Adalbert Racławice Panorama National Museum Post and Telecommunication Museum THE BIG SHOTS OF OLD TOWN 161 ul. Ofi ar Oświęcimskich Rybisch House Kissling Bierstube ul. Oławska Kameleon Oppersdorff-Lamberg Palace Church of St. Christopher MIRACLES ON THE ODRA RIVER 189 University of Wrocław, main building University church of the Blessed Named of Jesus, rectoral church of St. Matthias, church of St. Vincent, church of Our Lady on the Sand ul. Jedności Narodowej A NOT SO HOLY QUARTER 233 ul. św. Antoniego Church of St. Anthony Orthodox Cathedral ul. Włodkowica White Stork Synagogue Church of Divine Providence NOT JUST A PRETTY PROMENADE 265 Museum of Architecture Old Town promenade Oławska Gate ul. Podwale Partisan Hill Staromiejski Garden Wrocław Puppet Theater SPA Center in ul. Teatralna THE CITY OF ONE THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS 289 Wrocław University of Technology, main building Water tower on ul. Na Grobli Grunwaldzki Bridge Lower Silesian Governor’s Offi ce Ostrów Tumski Ossolineum Institute ul. Kuźnicza Rynek OVER THE ROOFTOPS OF WROCŁAW 331 Cathedral tower, tower of St. Elisabeth’s church, Ratusz tower Witches’ Bridge Sky Tower Old airport in Gądów Wrocław Airport AMAZING WALKS THE MANY FACES OF ONE STREET SPACEROWNIK 2 SPACEROWNIK 2 MAIN POINTS OF INTEREST ON THIS WALKING ROUTE rląt Lwowskich i s Kazimierza Wielkiego d Świdn Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego Piłsudskiego Józefa Józefa Marszałka Marszałka Plac Wolności Tęczowa a Krupnicza p Zamkowa Podwale o Świdnicka Mennicza Sądowa Teatralna Podwale tra Sk Prosta Plac Legionów Świdnicka i Księdza Pio Podwale Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego Muzealna Grabiszyńska Plac Muzealny Muzealna Tadeusza KościuszkiŁąkowa Świdnicka wPlac Tadeusza u Czysta Kościuszki y Tadeusza Kościuszki KolejowaJoachima Lelewela t qŚwidnicka e r 8 Marszałka7 Józefa Piłsudskiego Hugona Kołłątaja Wojciecha Bogusławskiego 6 Stawowa Swobodna Tadeusza Zielińskiego 9 4 3 Swobodna 5 2 1 omandorska K 1. Wrocław Główny railway 7. Former residence of the 13. The Tax Offi ce station Landeshauptmann 14. The Music School 2. “Dobry wieczór we Wrocławiu” 8. Polonia Hotel 15. Wrocław Philharmonic (“Good evening in Wrocław”) 9. Capitol Musical Theater 16. Supreme Chamber of Control neon sign 10. The monument of an 17. Plac Legionów 3. Piast Hotel Anonymous Passerby 18. Regional Court 4. Europejski Hotel 11. Kościuszkowska Dzielnica 19. Public Restroom in Podwale 5. Tenement house on Mieszkaniowa (Kościuszko 20. Old Curassier Palace ul. Piłsudskiego 95 Residential Complex) 21. Świebodzki footbridge 6. The NOT Building 12. Polish Theater in Wrocław 22. Świebodzki railway station 6 THE MANY FACES OF ONE STREET AMAZING WALKS lica. Piłsudskiego, before World War II known as Gartenstrasse U (Garden street) and renamed ul. Świerczewskiego during commu- nist reign, is an example of the American dream come true. It evolved from the muddy fi eld road of Przedmieście Świdnickie suburb area into a major artery – all in just half a century. The success of the street arrived on a train, which changed Wrocław once and for all. GOOD EVENING IN WROCŁAW This fi eld road transformed into a proper street in 1807. THE MEMORIES OF GARDEN When Napoleon’s army cap- STREET the Prussian king had do disclose his tured Wrocław, the inhabitants Legend has it that the godfather address to his staff offi cers. When were forced to tear down defen- of ul. Ogrodowa (Garden street) he asked his host about the location sive walls, which allowed the city was Frederick the Great, king of of the residence, he learned that to spread. However, the street Prussia. Right before conquering the street was nameless. The king gained its current status only af- the city (under the Habsburgs rule wanted to know what is most dis- ter the 1842 opening of the Upper at the time), he was staying at the tinctive of the area surrounding the Silesian Railway. The fi rst train residence of merchant Scultetus villa. “Gardens” – reported the serv- left the station in Fulerstrasse located in the south-east corner ants unanimously. “Then let it be (today: ul.
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