GreatAustralia’s Barrier —Ribbon Reef, Osprey Reef & Shark Diving Text and photos by Brandi Mueller

21 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Australia

View of from Spoilsport. PREVIOUS PAGE: Anemone with anemonefish at Half Way

If there was a place that demise of many famous sailor’s types of seaweed and ; inspired me to become ships), Aboriginal connections 125 of sharks and sting- and the people who survived rays; 5,000 species of mollusk; a diver and invoked my by the reef (who have been liv- 58 species of seahorses and passion and love for the ing in the area for at least 40,000 pipefish; 30 species of whales, ocean, it was Australia’s years), and also research that dolphins and porpoises; as well Great Barrier Reef (GBR). has been done on the reef and as turtles, dugongs and saltwater its state of health (not crocodiles. As a kid, I could spend good overall, like most of the Whew, those are some pretty hours watching televi- Earth’s reefs). awesome stats—and I get to sion specials about this The book listed the GBR stats, spend a week diving it! blue, fish-filled world that which can easily be found Jealous? You should be. In his through any Google search book, McCalman quotes British was so different from the or Wikipedia. It is the larg- geologist Joseph Jukes who, Wisconsin farm town I est system on Earth. while serving as a naturalist on grew up in. You can see it from space. It is a GBR exploration expedition in one of the seven natural won- the mid-1800s, said: “What an While flying to Australia on my ders of the world, as well as a inconceivable amount of way to dive the GBR for a week World Heritage Site. It covers life must be here scattered over with Mike Ball Dive Expeditions over 344,000 square kilometers the bottom of the sea, to say (MBDE), I was reading The Reef (133,000 sq. miles) and encom- nothing of moving through its by Iain McCalman. The book passes more than 900 islands. It waters, and this through spaces was about the history of the GBR is home to more than 1,500 fish of hundreds of miles. Every cor- from its discovery (mostly at the species; 400 coral species; 500 ner and crevice, every point Reef scene at Steve’s Bommie (above); Sweetlips with cleaner wrasse at Goggle Gardens (top right)

22 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Australia

THIS PAGE: Scenes from where friendly potato cods interact with divers; Cleaner wrasse and potato cod (above); Underwater photographer and puffer fish at Gotham City (left)

We left Cairns shortly after waves are common. boarding and headed north Thankfully, sunshine overnight. I would like to say greeted us in the morn- the soft and gentle sway of the ing at Ribbon Reef boat rocked us to sleep, but #10 for our first dive at in reality it actually knocked Goggle Gardens. a few of us out of our beds. August is winter in the Southern Goggle Gardens. An Hemisphere, and wind and easy dive, it was great for orientation and get- ting back into the swing occupied by living beings, which, of things. We found as they become more minute, pretty coral formations increase in tenfold abundance.” and plenty of fish. A few I was looking forward to see for whitetip reef sharks were myself what was “moving through hanging out in the sand its waters.” below us as we slowly Finally arriving in Cairns, I col- made our way around lected my luggage and headed the gardens, taking in all down towards the harbor to the the marine life around us. MBDE office. With a few hours to myself before it was time to board Cod Hole. Up next was the boat, I wandered down the one of the GBR’s most Esplanade at the water’s edge, famous dive sites, Cod Hole, close and personal to take pho- our many cameras. They even eager to meet my shipmates and known for its friendly potato cods. tos. allowed us to snap photos of start diving. These charismatic (and large) fish Three large cods were right them with their mouths wide either swarm divers or act com- under the boat when we jumped open while being cleaned by tiny Day 1: Ribbon Reef #10 pletely indifferent as divers get up in and they happily posed for cleaner wrasse.

23 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Critters at Gotham City include school of trev- ally, flatworm, batfish, scorpionfish, travel nudibranch and jellyfish Australia

Grotto. Getting into the water before breakfast, the sun was still low in the sky and bright rays of yellow light shone through the water onto the reef. We swam into a light current along the edge of the wall, looking out into the blue for sharks that often swim by. Along the wall, fish swam side- ways and looking down on them, it almost felt as if we were flying.

Admiralty Anchor. Our second dive site was at Admiralty Anchor, which was also a wall dive; at the top of the wall were lots of little swim-throughs and interesting rock and coral topography, mak-

#10 have learned to follow night divers. Like a pack of hungry dogs, they fol- low divers, and as soon as someone stops to look at an unsuspecting sleeping fish, the jacks dart in and gobble up the resting fish. Although we tried hard ing the dive site seem like a fun not to expose the jacks’ maze. So named because of an potential prey to this dan- anchor that could be seen at the ger, the jacks nevertheless end of one of the swim-throughs, managed to snatch away we saw plenty of fish and a turtle. a few more such “snacks” for dinner before the divers False Entrance. Our last dive site returned to the surface. of the day was False Entrance, After , the captain which had a beautiful sheer wall Gotham City. Our fifth and last started the engines and, over the boat moored at the edge dive of the day was a night dive the course of the night (another with sheer walls descending 2,000 of. Right under the boat was a at Gotham City. It turned out to bumpy one), took us to Osprey meters (6,500ft). It is known for its large school of trevally; while be one of the few night dives of Reef, 348km (216 miles) northeast great visibility and an abundance photographing them, a huge my life where I wished I had a of Cairns. of pelagic marine life. bumphead parrotfish swam by. I wide-angle lens on. You might cruised the wall for a little while as think fish aren’t very smart, but Day 2: Osprey Reef Fairy Grotto. We started our dive grey reef sharks, including several the jacks around Ribbon Reef Osprey Reef is a submerged at a beautiful site named Fairy babies, swam up and down the

24 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Whale shark (left and lower left) at False Entrance; Red sea fan (right) at False Entrance; Anemonefish and Australia travel anemone on reef at Fairy Grotto (below)

decided to take one more look off the edge of the wall. In the dis- tance, I saw a shadow. A large shadow. My heart rate accelerated as the shadow got larger and closer till it was moving directly toward me. I had to actually tell myself to calm down and get the camera ready (and pinch myself to see if it was real- ly happening). The shad- ow morphed into a huge whale shark that swam directly over me. It then turned in a circle and came back towards me, turned again, and then continued on. I was about

to pinch myself again (just to check) as where it’s almost guaranteed you can another diver showed up at the perfect see whale sharks, either seasonally or time for me to get a shot with him and because they are being fed. But when the whale shark. you think of how large the is The whale shark was the talk of the and how little time we spent underwater boat for the rest of the day. I find one of there, what are the odds of such a rare wall. I headed back into the shallow reef Unsuccessful in my bar- the most amazing things about diving is creature to just happen to swim by at just area to try and find a school of barracu- racuda hunt, I headed seeing the unexpected in situations like that moment on the edge of that exact da the dive guides said were often there. back to the boat but this. There are some places you can go part of the wall? I found it breath-taking.

25 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Mike Ball Dive travel Australia EXPEDITIONS COD HOLE • CORAL SEA • GREAT BARRIER REEF • AUSTRALIA Expeditions On the Wild Side the sharks and divers, helps to promote a positive image of sharks to the non-diving The Best Diving on the population. That being said, this dive was awesome. Coral Sea & Great Barrier Reef! Between 40 and 50 grey and whitetip reef Dive with giant potato cod, explore deep walls, witness shark action at Osprey Reef. sharks showed up and put on a fantastic show by coming close to divers and even staying around swimming along the wall after the food was released.

Half Way. Our last two dives at Osprey Reef were at Half Way. This pretty dive site was another with lots of pathways and maze- like passages through the reef. I found four anemones of completely different colors, including a vibrant purple anemone just under the boat. After the dives, it was time for the Farewell BBQ party for several of the guests who were only on a four-day trip. MBED offers three-, four- and seven-day trips.

Minke Whale Season! June-July Unique Opportunity on the Great Barrier Reef. www.mikeball.com/minke Day 3: Shark diving stationary by holding on to rocky After the whale shark, I sort of felt like they areas of the wall where there might as well take me home, nothing was wasn’t any coral. going to top that experience, but we still A bucket of food was on what New Special Expeditions! had one more day at the amazing Osprey almost looked like a rock dinner Check out our website for details. Reef. table. The sharks circled the area until the bucket was opened, they North Horn. Our morning dives were at ate their food, and then they left. North Horn, where I was lucky enough to Shark dives allow divers to have do a shark dive. Shark feeding is of course close encounters with sharks and controversial, but MBDE and the one or to be able to observe for them- two other operations that dive Osprey Reef selves that sharks are not the have been bringing sharks closer to divers aggressive, man-eating predators at North Horn for many years. depicted in the movies (nor do © When the boat pulled up, so did the they fall from tornados). Dives like sharks. They have been conditioned to this can help change the nega- know when they are going to be fed. With tive image of sharks through the only two liveaboard boats feeding the divers sharing their stories and sharks less than once a week, this site isn’t photos with others. They can help “over-fed.” The sharks did not seem overly spread awareness and educate aggressive and had absolutely no interest those who don’t get to see sharks Phone: +61 7 4053 0500 in the divers, only the container with food personally, and I’m a believer that www.mikeball.com in it. Divers remained on the wall, staying shark dives done safely for both Email: [email protected] Fax: +61 7 4031 5470 Visit: 3 Abbott Street, Cairns. Queensland 4870 Australia THIS PAGE: Around 40 to 50 grey and whitetip reef sharks show up for a shark dive at North Horn

26 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO silver

THIS PAGE: Commensal shrimp on anemone, puffer fish (right) and fire dart fish (below) at Half Way

cinema of dreams Those signing up for three- and four-day trips either end or start the trip at Lizard Island where they take a low-altitude scenic flight to or from Cairns. Overnight, the captain took us back west to the Great Barrier Reef and Lizard Island.

Day 4: Lizard Island Before dawn, we arrived at Lizard Island and said goodbye to several of our new dive buddies. A few of us staying for the whole seven days went to shore with them to say one last goodbye and have a short tour of the island with our www.seacam.com photo and video pro, Julia. Now a National Park, this island was a sacred place for the aborigines and also had been

27 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Australia

Olive sea snake on reef (far left) and mating pair (left inset), nudibranchs (left and top center) at Snake Pit; Reef scene at Coral Kingdom (above) visited by Captain Cook (he saw a lot of lizards and decid- On the night water column and it looked as if ed to name it after them). It dive, I forgot all it was raining fish. The water was currently hosts a research sta- about the sea deep blue, with little dark shad- tion and a resort. snakes and was ows darting around everywhere. New guests arrived on the entranced by The bommie was a coral pinnacle plane and as we got to know mini coral walls that started around 30m (100ft) them, the boat headed back covered in nudi- and went up to 3m (15ft) from the to Cod Hole for another dive branchs and flat- surface. with those crazy cod fish. worms. Swimming down to the sand, After that, we moved to a site a large school of snappers with called the Snake Pit. Who can Day 5: Light­ yellow stripes blocked my view guess what we saw there? house Bommie of a green sea turtle waking up Snake Pit. Did I mention the On the morning and heading towards the surface. GBR has 17 species of sea of our fifth day of After taking a few breaths of air, snakes? (Eek!) Quite a few diving, we went the turtle came back down on olive sea snakes reside at the to Lighthouse the pinnacle and swam into a Snake Pit and, according to my ers and showed no interest in us ing around each Bommie. little crevasse where cleaner fish internet searches, they are con- whatsoever. other. One of Somehow, I ended came out and gave the turtle a sidered aggressive and highly Actually, there was no time to them, I’m going to assume was around her. Several others were up the first person in the water; scrub. For the rest of the dive, the venomous (this is Australia, what be afraid of them because, just the female, kept trying to swim seen going up and down from just below the surface was pure turtle hovered effortlessly as tiny else would you expect?) But they under the boat, we found them away, but the other two would the surface (they need to breathe beauty. At least three different cleaner fish picked at him (and are not aggressive towards div- mating! Three snakes were curl- catch up and wrap themselves about every 20 minutes). schools of fish were feeding in the we took dozens of photos).

28 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Australia

Disco clam or electric flame scallop (above); Pipefish (left)

great site for just dolphins, nudibranchs, right? They anthias, probably just anemonefish swam quickly by and I was quite ing encounters often last for hours. and more, so content with some really cool nudi- But it was mid-August, long after the I shifted into branchs I was shooting. I did a nice, minkes are supposed to be gone, macro mode. long, 70-minute dive and headed and it turned out to be one of the In typical back to the boat. Upon arriving, I latest recorded minke encounters photogra- noticed some people were - ever recorded. Someone on the pher humor, ing behind the boat, so I looked out boat must have been a good luck as I was into the blue… and a minke whale charm. attaching my swam by! 105mm lens, Suddenly, my nudibranchs Day 6: Steve’s Bommie I told those weren’t that cool, and I literally Our final day of diving started out around me flew out of the water and changed at Steve’s Bommie—another pin- they were my camera lens at Mach speed. nacle, which was also loaded with Pixie Pinnacle. If you could imag- probably going to see a whale. Jumping back into the water on a fish. Thousands of purple, pink and ine what a dive site called Pixie But that is never really supposed snorkel, I joined the others behind orange anthias swarmed around Pinnacle looked like, I bet you to happen, right? This is just a joke the boat, and a few minutes later, the top of the bommie, and at the would conjure up images of tiny, we make... right? a minke whale swam right under very top, there was an anemone prettily-colored fish darting around. Well. About 40 minutes into the me. with Nemo—an Ocellaris clownfish. If that’s what you imagined, you’d dive, one of the dive guides came Minke whales (dwarf minke (You can’t dive on the GBR and not be right, and our second and third up to me and pointed at a few div- whales, to be exact) have quite the find Nemo!) The rest of the trip, we dives took place there. I hadn’t ers, pointed to his eye, and then reputation with MBDE. In June and had only seen anemonefish, but this put my macro lens on my cam- gave the signal I thought was for July, they pass through the GBR and was the first actual Ocellaris clown- era for any day-dives yet (I might dolphins (hand doing a large, slow these friendly whales seem to enjoy fish sighting we had all week. have missed the whale shark), but wave motion). I laughed a little to being around the Spoilsport just as The last two dives were at a new the dive guides told me this was a myself, “It figures,” but hey, it was much as divers do. In-water snorkel- reef the crew wanted to check out. Sea turtle (above) and (top right) at Lighthouse Bommie

29 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Australia

Lizard Island (above); Ocellaris clownfish (far left) and nudibranch (left) at Steve’s Bommie; Minke whale at Pixie Pinnacle (right); The Spoilsport liveaboard (lower right)

Upon arriving in Cairns, I was amazed group of people with a to find Mike Ball at the office greeting me particular purpose.” Mike and the other guests as we checked in, Ball trips are just that: a and he made plans to meet us for din- group of people sharing ner at a nearby restaurant. He has been the desire to dive on little- running liveaboard dive boats for over 35 dived reefs, to see the years (diving operations since 1969) and amazing and beautiful still makes an effort to meet every guest. and unexpected won- His passion for the ocean and his business der of the ocean, and to is undeniable, as he talks openly about become (for a little while) his career, the upcoming dive expedi- a part of the Earth’s tion, answers questions, and is generally largest living thing. I left just really interesting to talk to. You don’t feeling I’d experienced expect to be having dinner with the something extraordinary, owner before starting your trip (especially and if you have the when that owner is the legendary Mike opportunity to partake in This exploratory dive turned out to be “barbie” and later had another fantastic Ball and an inductee of the International a voyage with Mike Ball really pretty and a perfect, relaxing site dinner onboard. Overnight, we headed Diving Hall of Fame). Dive Expeditions, you will to end our week of diving. back to Cairns under a clear sky and a too. ■ With our gear cleaned, cameras million stars. Going home put away, and packing started, we It is taboo to call a week on the Spoilsport Brandi Mueller is a PADI IDC Staff traveling and being underwater with a had another Farewell Aussie BBQ that Mike Ball a “dive trip”, it is more accurately called Instructor and boat captain living in the camera. For more information, visit: www. included our captain playing guitar and You cannot take part in a Mike Ball Dive an “expedition”; its definition would be Marshall Islands. When she’s not teaching brandiunderwater.com. singing while we ate shrimp right off the Expeditions without Mike. “a journey or voyage undertaken by a scuba or driving boats, she’s most happy

30 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO MBDE and solo diving MBDE is no stranger to solo diving. Mike Ball actually pioneered the practice in 1997, creating his own course for his dive boats, in order to teach divers safe solo diving, and promoted it to guests. These days, the operation is teaching the SSI Solo onboard, which I took, completed, and then dived solo for most of my time with the operation. Nothing is worse than showing up for the trip of a lifetime on your own and being forced to be paired up with a dive buddy who may be at a different experi- ence level or have different dive goals than yourself. For me, the solo course was a no-brainer. I am an avid under- water photographer, with the tendency to spend excessive amounts of time with After taking the course, the instructor have tried). There are also dive guides in a single fish. Dive buddies (who are not and other crew members make it known the water on every dive, so if there was photographers of the similar obsession) that you do not have to dive solo every a problem, there “may” still be another are annoyed by me. Dive guides hate dive. You can take the course and still diver around to help you. (This situation me, because they are leading a dive dive with the dive guides, or they will is also good because when you are the with several people, and I am the trou- pair you up with a buddy. Also, the dive only one who sees a whale shark, no one blemaker who stops to take 20 photos guides do not shun you for being a solo will believe you.) of a butterflyfish. Pretty soon, they have diver; if they find something cool, and continued on and lost me. you are in the area, they will still signal Mike Ball on solo diving you over and show the interesting critter Mike Ball was kind enough to have a cof- The course to you. fee with me post-expedition, and I had The course is relatively straightforward; I will say that solo diving on MBDE is sort lots of questions for him on his thoughts there is a book to read, some questions of solo-lite diving. With up to 28 guests on on solo diving. His trips are probably the to answer and skills to do underwater, each trip, it is actually hard to get away first commercial operation in dive history such as showing the ability to switch to from everyone at most dive sites (I might to allow, teach and encourage solo div- your back-up air source, navi- ers. He introduced the Mike Ball gation and good . Safe Solo System in 1997. Text and photos by Brandi Mueller Pre-course dive requirements Mike told me that someone include being an advanced who “wants” to solo dive is prob- I have a confession. I’ve gone There is much controversy on this subject, diver, having at least 100 ably already 90 percent ready solo diving before. (Mom, I’m and as my disclaimer, what follows are logged dives and being 21 to. It is like hiking; a hiker who just my personal thoughts and experi- years old (or 18 and a certified wants to hike alone is most likely sorry.) I’ve been a scuba instruc- ences, directly related to my recent trip dive professional). already mostly mentally pre- tor for 11 years, diving since I with Mike Ball Dive Expeditions. MBDE The goal of the course is to pared and properly geared-up was 15, and have done over was probably the first and currently one make a diver more self-suffi- for the task. By encouraging 4,000 dives, I believe sometimes of the few commercial dive operations cient, which is great whether a the course, divers are properly that allows certified solo divers with intends to dive solo or not. trained, which helps with indi- I am more comfortable under- required safety equipment to dive alone The more confident a diver is in vidual safety as well as safety water than I am on land (seri- on their trips. Solo diving is becoming his or her ability to handle any of the company, and just like ously, fish can be much easier to quite trendy right now, and more shops situation, with or without their any scuba course, completion get along with than people). and boats are starting to teach and rec- buddy, the safer they (and their is determined by the instructor; ognize solo certifications. buddy) will be. if they don’t think you’re ready,

31 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Solo Diving

you end up alone even ters made me miss a few when you tried not to cool sightings. On the be. This course can help other hand, I spent sev- a diver be prepared for eral minutes solo over the those less-than-perfect edge of a 2,000m drop- situations. off, having a semi-spiritual In conclusion, as an moment with a whale experienced diver and shark before another an underwater photog- diver showed up. That rapher, being able to was magical, although be allowed to safety no one would have solo dive helped me believed me if I was the immensely to get the only one who saw it.  shots I wanted with- out annoying a buddy Brandi Mueller is a PADI or dive guide (no one IDC Staff Instructor and wants to watch me take boat captain living in the photos of one clownfish Marshall Islands. When for 30 minutes). On the she’s not teaching scuba downside, I missed out or driving boats, she’s on some cool stuff oth- most happy traveling ers saw. Not diving with and being underwa- the dive guides who are ter with a camera. For familiar with the dive sites more information, visit: and all the resident crit- Brandiunderwater.com.

they won’t certify you until a determined location at a seemed easier being able you are. Divers enjoy their certain time so that we get to and actually doing things trip more because they are back on the boat together. the right way (who knew?) diving how they want, and (This only failed when dive I would venture to say, the dive guides can focus guides found us mid-dive this course is for everyone, their attention on divers nowhere near each other.) but the act of diving solo who may need or want a As a certified solo diver, is NOT for everyone. The little more guidance under- on a boat that accepts course teaches a diver to water. the practice, I was able to be more self-reliant and focus all my mental energy discusses a lot of common- My thoughts on my own personal aware- sense issues about what to In another confession, I ness and safety (where I do if alone during an emer- will admit that in the past was, where the boat was, gency. In classical buddy- I have gone out of my what was going on around oriented courses, subjects way to solo dive. I even me). Otherwise, I would like these are ignored have a close friend and be thinking about how to because they focus entirely dive buddy with whom I dodge the dive guide, wor- on a diver never being have concocted plans in rying about a new-to-me alone. Always being with which we get in the water buddy, or feeling guilty your buddy is a great prac- together, go our separate about lagging behind the tice, but in reality, some- ways, and then join up at group, taking photos. It just times situations occur where

32 X-RAY MAG : 70 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO